It doesn't matter whether it was due to the shaft. . The imbalance can be removed with the diamond device "Tormek TT50" and the grinding stone can be dressed like new. Then there is no more imbalance and it runs smoothly again. At most you could just replace the main shaft bearing Greeting
Thank you Sir, for your video, I found that the Tormek TT-50 Truing and Dressing Tool - Keeps your Stone Round and Flat is a worthwhile investment. A previous owner must have used the stone without water causing a gouge in the wheel. The diamond dressing tool brought it back flat and round. After watching ALL the instructional videos that Tormek has posted on RUclips and what I have learned from them, I would NOT let just anyone use my Tormek. And yes, I have spent 5 times as much on the various SuperGrind 2000 attachments from Amazon that I need for my wood carving tools. The Tormek TT-50 Truing and Dressing Tool was the last accessory I purchased but it should have been the FIRST. It looks like the E-Z Lock shaft may be next. LOL
I now remove the stone between uses and store it flat. My stone will get out of round just sitting idle on the machine for extended periods. My Tormek was a Marketplace score too. @@Ukenick
Thats how they get you, doesn't matter if you get a Tormek with about half the attachments ever made for free, you'll still end up buying the other half + stone & wear items so it's a win for them regardless.
I just got through taking off the wheel on my SuperGrind 2000. Your way of removing the wheel is the easiest way to go. Definitely a design flaw by Tormek to not use a Stainless Steel shaft (as all new shafts are)to prevent the inevitable rust freeze of the shaft to the grindstone. I did watch an instructional video by two Tormek technicians on their system. They recommended placing some machine grease in the plastic bushings. I'm awaiting the arrival of the new SS shaft. Cheers from across the pond. Don M
I was really lucky and found a t8 at a pawn shop with every single attachment available for 150$!!!! The only thing needed was a replacement leather strop
Thanks for sharing, I have an even older supergrass 2000 and am about to upgrade the shaft. A couple of points may be helpful. When you assemble the shaft, you should put white lithium grease on the bearing areas. Secondly, when you mount the honing wheel, you have to position it so the lugs on the wheel mate with the dimples on the drive wheel. Otherwise, it wobbles around like it was when you finished. I'm sure you have corrected that by now.
You may find that the old shaft was not the problem but that the old wheel had never been ‘trued’. The stone grader will make the wheel flat but not round / concentric - to do they you need a diamond truing tool they tormek sell - pricy at about £80 (but then all tormek stuff is) but this should save your old wheel for general use if you so wish.
Nonsense. It doesn't matter whether it was due to the shaft. . The imbalance can be removed with the diamond device "Tormek TT50" and the grinding stone can be dressed like new. Then there is no more imbalance and it runs smoothly again. At most you could just replace the main shaft bearing Greeting
I think you may have spent more money than you needed to. All you proved is the stone was out of round. That’s an easy fix if you have a diamond grading/truing tool. Regardless, you’ve got a good machine there. I’m hoping to pick up a us3d one too cos there’s no way I’m spending buying a new one.
Hello Nick , very good video! Thanks! What is that orange motor in the top right corner? A guy of mine puts a corrugated washer behind the rubber impeller, a thin corrugated 12mm washer and doesn't tighten the nut/bolt quite so tightly. Then the bike won't wobble quite as much
This has been very interesting and I have the same problem, however my wheel runs true but I would like to put in the new main shaft if I can remove the old one. Also I have seen some with two extra smaller honing wheels on the left side for Woodturning gouges but it didn’t look as if the new main shaft is long enough. Any thoughts?
Hi John. If you order the replacement shaft it is an upgrade to the new version and I think you can add the wheels as part of the upgrade. I would ask your nearest dealer. Where are you based?
@@Ukenick The smaller honing strops are an accessory, the LA-120, which includes a shaft extension piece that is fitted using 13mm and 19mm spanners. There are two options for the strop leathers; LA-122 Standard set comprising a 3mm radius profile strop combined with a 60 degree angled vee-strop, which might be included in the LA-120, but I can't recall if I purchased mine separately so try and confirm this for yourself first. There is also a "Narrow" set of strop wheels available as the LA-124 set, this includes a 2mm radius disc combined with a 45 degree vee-strop.
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I've seen these advertised, but this is the first time I've seen on in action. Thanks for sharing 👍 🇬🇧
Hello Nick,
A nice addition to your workshop... and a good upgrade...
Take care.
Paul,,
Thank you Paul
Good video , Thanks for posting , I am about to rebuild my 2000 watching this I now know what to do , Cheers.
It doesn't matter whether it was due to the shaft. .
The imbalance can be removed with the diamond device "Tormek TT50" and the grinding stone can be dressed like new.
Then there is no more imbalance and it runs smoothly again.
At most you could just replace the main shaft bearing
Greeting
Thank you Sir, for your video, I found that the Tormek TT-50 Truing and Dressing Tool - Keeps your Stone Round and Flat is a worthwhile investment. A previous owner must have used the stone without water causing a gouge in the wheel. The diamond dressing tool brought it back flat and round.
After watching ALL the instructional videos that Tormek has posted on RUclips and what I have learned from them, I would NOT let just anyone use my Tormek.
And yes, I have spent 5 times as much on the various SuperGrind 2000 attachments from Amazon that I need for my wood carving tools. The Tormek TT-50 Truing and Dressing Tool was the last accessory I purchased but it should have been the FIRST. It looks like the E-Z Lock shaft may be next. LOL
Thank you. I know I need to buy that and when budget allows I will. Take care and happy honing.
I now remove the stone between uses and store it flat. My stone will get out of round just sitting idle on the machine for extended periods. My Tormek was a Marketplace score too. @@Ukenick
Thats how they get you, doesn't matter if you get a Tormek with about half the attachments ever made for free, you'll still end up buying the other half + stone & wear items so it's a win for them regardless.
I just got through taking off the wheel on my SuperGrind 2000. Your way of removing the wheel is the easiest way to go. Definitely a design flaw by Tormek to not use a Stainless Steel shaft (as all new shafts are)to prevent the inevitable rust freeze of the shaft to the grindstone. I did watch an instructional video by two Tormek technicians on their system. They recommended placing some machine grease in the plastic bushings. I'm awaiting the arrival of the new SS shaft. Cheers from across the pond. Don M
Great upgrade for the machine, but greater for your shop my friend! Enjoy it!
Dimitris
Nice score, looks like loads of fun in the future, cheers!
I was really lucky and found a t8 at a pawn shop with every single attachment available for 150$!!!! The only thing needed was a replacement leather strop
Thanks for sharing, I have an even older supergrass 2000 and am about to upgrade the shaft. A couple of points may be helpful. When you assemble the shaft, you should put white lithium grease on the bearing areas. Secondly, when you mount the honing wheel, you have to position it so the lugs on the wheel mate with the dimples on the drive wheel. Otherwise, it wobbles around like it was when you finished. I'm sure you have corrected that by now.
Thanks so much. Actually I didn’t know 😊
Thanks. I found your video helpful to see the upgrades.
I’m about to inherit an old Tormek from my late father. I’m not sure what model, but I’m sure it’ll need similar TLC
Its an amazing machine. Take good care of it and if I can be of help let me know.
You may find that the old shaft was not the problem but that the old wheel had never been ‘trued’. The stone grader will make the wheel flat but not round / concentric - to do they you need a diamond truing tool they tormek sell - pricy at about £80 (but then all tormek stuff is) but this should save your old wheel for general use if you so wish.
May have also been left in the water bath while idle and caused deformation
Nonsense.
It doesn't matter whether it was due to the shaft. .
The imbalance can be removed with the diamond device "Tormek TT50" and the grinding stone can be dressed like new.
Then there is no more imbalance and it runs smoothly again.
At most you could just replace the main shaft bearing
Greeting
I think you may have spent more money than you needed to. All you proved is the stone was out of round. That’s an easy fix if you have a diamond grading/truing tool. Regardless, you’ve got a good machine there. I’m hoping to pick up a us3d one too cos there’s no way I’m spending buying a new one.
Hello Nick , very good video! Thanks! What is that orange motor in the top right corner? A guy of mine puts a corrugated washer behind the rubber impeller, a thin corrugated 12mm washer and doesn't tighten the nut/bolt quite so tightly. Then the bike won't wobble quite as much
This has been very interesting and I have the same problem, however my wheel runs true but I would like to put in the new main shaft if I can remove the old one. Also I have seen some with two extra smaller honing wheels on the left side for Woodturning gouges but it didn’t look as if the new main shaft is long enough. Any thoughts?
Hi John. If you order the replacement shaft it is an upgrade to the new version and I think you can add the wheels as part of the upgrade. I would ask your nearest dealer. Where are you based?
@@Ukenick The smaller honing strops are an accessory, the LA-120, which includes a shaft extension piece that is fitted using 13mm and 19mm spanners. There are two options for the strop leathers; LA-122 Standard set comprising a 3mm radius profile strop combined with a 60 degree angled vee-strop, which might be included in the LA-120, but I can't recall if I purchased mine separately so try and confirm this for yourself first. There is also a "Narrow" set of strop wheels available as the LA-124 set, this includes a 2mm radius disc combined with a 45 degree vee-strop.
Have you had to replace the motor capacitor yet?
Hi Mike. No not yet