Burning pine in a woodstove. Why burning pine won't hurt your chimney. Burning pine vs. hickory or oak. Pine burns clean and is not unsafe in a woodstove or fireplace.
I live east of Sacramento at the base of the Sierra mountains. I had to take down a 90ft gray pine tree. I kept the wood to use for kindling. I have enough kindling for 30 years. I have a large wood-burning stove and my house is only 1400 ft.² Once the fire gets going, I will usually throw some pine in with the oak for the crackle. It’s been great. Once Wife retires we are planning on moving to Hastings Michigan. Maybe someday I can meet you. Thanks for your great videos.
Yes, restricting air too much before the primary burn is over is one of my pet peeves. Still, most people over 45 will tell me I'm going to burn my shed down. Regardless of how much official data from the Department of Agriculture, and the Forestry Service I show them.
I burn pine all the time no problems. The key is to season the wood, burn hot and the biggest thing clean your chimney. I sweep my chimney with my current setup 3 times a year once at the beginning of the season to make sure bees haven’t plugged the chimney the second is midway through the season then the final cleaning is at the end of the season to Put the stove to bed for the summer this reduces the corrosion in the pipe and stove.
in many areas pine and juniper may be the only options. We use pine to start our fires and maybe take the chill out of the air in the mornings. Fires we want to last the night and keep a steady warmth we throw a couple big logs of juniper that will last the night.
Eastern white pine is excellent for getting a fire going on leftover coals in the morning. Ignites fast, burns fast and gets the stove back up to temp fast , all with very little smoke. Sure beats waiting for oak to slowly get around to pumping out some heat. Oak will get there, but it's smoking the whole time . I'll burn pine if I'm stuck in the house on a rainy day and have nothing better to do than load the stove. Or while watching football games. Save the good wood for overnite burns that pine sucks at unless maybe you have a Blaze King. Creosote is a condensate that forms where hot gasses meet colder air. If you burn (very) well seasoned wood and don't try to burn your stove at far lower rates than it was designed and maintain a warm chimney, you shouldn't have any problems with creosote.
Good video when it comes to debunking some of the folklore. I agree. Pine is fine. We have a wood furnace (beside the electric furnace) that will hold a couple of armfuls of wood. We burn beetle-killed (already dead, in other words) lodgepole that spends our hot summer in a south facing open woodshed. By winter, it's bone dry. We've got a block chimney with an 8 inch stainless flue.The cap needs cleaning in the spring but always less than 1/8" powdery creosote on the top several feet of the chimney. Rest of it is clean as a whistle and takes just a couple of minutes to do the job. Not that I'd want to do it for a living. We live in Ponderosa forest/grassland with some Douglas Fir. The Ponderosa in these parts is almost impossible to split by hand as it's so gnarly and not much fun with a hydraulic splitter either. So higher elevation lodgepole is preferred. Some people around here think that Fir is a gourmet firewood but compared to the pine, they'll pay 50% more per cord for a 15% increase in BTUs. In southern BC, split lodgepole runs $320-350 a cord. That's pricey enough.
I have a lot of pine cones on my land. When I first bought the place I was enjoying them in the fireplace -- but people told me that they are the worst for creosote development. Now I have hundreds of them I would love to burn. Just had my chimney swept. Thanks, good video.
Here in San Diego they've planted Canary Island pine. I burned some in our fireplace and it didn't just snap and pop it made a neverending sizzling roaring noise that was just incredibly loud.
I played with blacksmithing just enough to figure out crude forging techniques. a fried of mine is a bladesmith so I started looking into it. It's cool, but way beyond my commitment level.
I burn kiln dried hardwood logs in UK ,but where I work they get dried pine Inside cardboard pallets so that they can be stacked I take the pine chop it into small pieces and throw it in with hardwoods and can say never had a problem.😉
You want safe long term heat in a 'workshop with your little stove? Put cinder blocks two rows deep (front to back) and three rows high on either side of the stove. Stuff the 'wet' wood in the cores of the blocks. The blocks will retain/dissipate heat for hours once they reach temperature. The wood in the cores dries safer than drying it on the burning surface. The cinder block won't reach temperature that cause failure. If you are lazy (me) ... a turkey baster full of fist size stones on the top plate of the stove adds about an hour to the heat in the shop.
True that you stack your split logs in a dry room and dry'em out you won't get a quarter of the chimney soot build up. Does burn hot but almost twice fast as hard wood. Learned this from an old man that ran a saw mill for 40yrs. that had a two room fire place and a wood stove in his kitchen. Figured he new what he was talking about.
Pine resin has oils in it. It will burn hotter so do not need as much. Depends on the type of pine as well. Southern longleaf just literally drips resin. All over people's cars that are dumb enough to park under one.
All I can say for those of you who watched this video buyer beware. The first question you should ask yourself. Why do these people who sell wood want you to burn pine. 1 they get the wood cheat often it’s even given to them. 2 it’s lightweight easy to handle. 3 it burns very quickly without producing a lot of BTUs. 4 because it burns up faster they can sell you more would add more frequently deliveries. 5 they don’t really care what happens in your Chimney. I’m sure there are other reasons, but I don’t have the time
@@homesteadknowhowyep,…and that’s how it is around our area. Your options are pine, spruce, fir, aspen, shaggy and alligator juniper, and a little bit of oak. Pine burns very clean when it’s seasoned, and very dirty when unseasoned.
It's hard to keep wood good and dry this time of year. We get a lot of rain as the temperatures start cooling down. I usually have a nice stack near the stove to finish drying.
I have Pine and Juniper. I'm going to start using the Pine as a starter because the Juniper is hard to start. I need to see if somebody makes clean out box for the stove pipe. Cheers
@@homesteadknowhow Thanks. I'm not sure why it's been so hard to start lately. Maybe because I've been cutting dead stuff but it's still not dry enough. Idk. I wasn't gonna burn pine but now I will.
Hello my new friend..... I like a piece of pine when I have the screen on my Woodstove just for the crackle... Where are you located... Great video and I look forward to seeing more... Stop by I'm about to do a 1k sub giveaway... Silver rounds... Have a blessed day
I burned pine in the same wood stove for 10 years and never had a problem. That stove was our only heat source. I cleaned the chimney stack out twice a year and burned only seasoned wood.
Good video when it comes to debunking some of the folklore. I agree. Pine is fine. We have a wood furnace (beside the electric furnace) that will hold a couple of armfuls of wood. We burn beetle-killed (already dead, in other words) lodgepole that spends our hot summer in a south facing open woodshed. By winter, it's bone dry. We've got a block chimney with an 8 inch stainless flue.The cap needs cleaning in the spring but always less than 1/8" powdery creosote on the top several feet of the chimney. Rest of it is clean as a whistle and takes just a couple of minutes to do the job. Not that I'd want to do it for a living. We live in Ponderosa forest/grassland with some Douglas Fir. The Ponderosa in these parts is almost impossible to split by hand as it's so gnarly and not much fun with a hydraulic splitter either. So higher elevation lodgepole is preferred. Some people around here think that Fir is a gourmet firewood but compared to the pine, they'll pay 50% more per cord for a 15% increase in BTUs. In southern BC, split lodgepole runs $320-350 a cord. That's pricey enough.
I live east of Sacramento at the base of the Sierra mountains. I had to take down a 90ft gray pine tree. I kept the wood to use for kindling. I have enough kindling for 30 years. I have a large wood-burning stove and my house is only 1400 ft.²
Once the fire gets going, I will usually throw some pine in with the oak for the crackle. It’s been great. Once Wife retires we are planning on moving to Hastings Michigan. Maybe someday I can meet you. Thanks for your great videos.
Choked low temperature smoldering fires and/or wet wood causes the issues, most parts of Scandinavia only have pine and soft wood and they are fine.
Yes, restricting air too much before the primary burn is over is one of my pet peeves. Still, most people over 45 will tell me I'm going to burn my shed down. Regardless of how much official data from the Department of Agriculture, and the Forestry Service I show them.
35 years... no issues
Well on my 20th..
I burn pine all the time no problems. The key is to season the wood, burn hot and the biggest thing clean your chimney. I sweep my chimney with my current setup 3 times a year once at the beginning of the season to make sure bees haven’t plugged the chimney the second is midway through the season then the final cleaning is at the end of the season to Put the stove to bed for the summer this reduces the corrosion in the pipe and stove.
I wish I had hardwood options. 😆 🤣 the entire western USA burns pine.
in many areas pine and juniper may be the only options. We use pine to start our fires and maybe take the chill out of the air in the mornings. Fires we want to last the night and keep a steady warmth we throw a couple big logs of juniper that will last the night.
Eastern white pine is excellent for getting a fire going on leftover coals in the morning. Ignites fast, burns fast and gets the stove back up to temp fast , all with very little smoke. Sure beats waiting for oak to slowly get around to pumping out some heat. Oak will get there, but it's smoking the whole time . I'll burn pine if I'm stuck in the house on a rainy day and have nothing better to do than load the stove. Or while watching football games. Save the good wood for overnite burns that pine sucks at unless maybe you have a Blaze King. Creosote is a condensate that forms where hot gasses meet colder air. If you burn (very) well seasoned wood and don't try to burn your stove at far lower rates than it was designed and maintain a warm chimney, you shouldn't have any problems with creosote.
Good video when it comes to debunking some of the folklore. I agree. Pine is fine. We have a wood furnace (beside the electric furnace) that will hold a couple of armfuls of wood. We burn beetle-killed (already dead, in other words) lodgepole that spends our hot summer in a south facing open woodshed. By winter, it's bone dry. We've got a block chimney with an 8 inch stainless flue.The cap needs cleaning in the spring but always less than 1/8" powdery creosote on the top several feet of the chimney. Rest of it is clean as a whistle and takes just a couple of minutes to do the job. Not that I'd want to do it for a living.
We live in Ponderosa forest/grassland with some Douglas Fir. The Ponderosa in these parts is almost impossible to split by hand as it's so gnarly and not much fun with a hydraulic splitter either. So higher elevation lodgepole is preferred. Some people around here think that Fir is a gourmet firewood but compared to the pine, they'll pay 50% more per cord for a 15% increase in BTUs. In southern BC, split lodgepole runs $320-350 a cord. That's pricey enough.
I have a lot of pine cones on my land. When I first bought the place I was enjoying them in the fireplace -- but people told me that they are the worst for creosote development. Now I have hundreds of them I would love to burn. Just had my chimney swept. Thanks, good video.
Here in San Diego they've planted Canary Island pine. I burned some in our fireplace and it didn't just snap and pop it made a neverending sizzling roaring noise that was just incredibly loud.
Fast burning wood usually makes more noise.
@@homesteadknowhow yes I know east coast pine but Canary Island pine sounds like a bowl of rice crispies on a loud speaker
excellent information, I'll start drying out pine and burning it in the wooden stove. I liked the Japanese katana making information you shared.
I played with blacksmithing just enough to figure out crude forging techniques. a fried of mine is a bladesmith so I started looking into it. It's cool, but way beyond my commitment level.
I burn pine all the time. Never green and never a smoldering fire. I mix it with other woods also. Never had a problem.
pine burns fine been burning it for years chimney guy comes one time a year said it was spotless in chimney , and its free everywhere
I burn kiln dried hardwood logs in UK ,but where I work they get dried pine Inside cardboard pallets so that they can be stacked I take the pine chop it into small pieces and throw it in with hardwoods and can say never had a problem.😉
Thank you friend. I was wondering about that.
You want safe long term heat in a 'workshop with your little stove? Put cinder blocks two rows deep (front to back) and three rows high on either side of the stove. Stuff the 'wet' wood in the cores of the blocks. The blocks will retain/dissipate heat for hours once they reach temperature. The wood in the cores dries safer than drying it on the burning surface. The cinder block won't reach temperature that cause failure. If you are lazy (me) ... a turkey baster full of fist size stones on the top plate of the stove adds about an hour to the heat in the shop.
Good tips.
True that you stack your split logs in a dry room and dry'em out you won't get a quarter of the chimney soot build up. Does burn hot but almost twice fast as hard wood. Learned this from an old man that ran a saw mill for 40yrs. that had a two room fire place and a wood stove in his kitchen. Figured he new what he was talking about.
Absolutely
Absolutely
Pine resin has oils in it. It will burn hotter so do not need as much. Depends on the type of pine as well. Southern longleaf just literally drips resin. All over people's cars that are dumb enough to park under one.
All I can say for those of you who watched this video buyer beware. The first question you should ask yourself. Why do these people who sell wood want you to burn pine. 1 they get the wood cheat often it’s even given to them. 2 it’s lightweight easy to handle. 3 it burns very quickly without producing a lot of BTUs. 4 because it burns up faster they can sell you more would add more frequently deliveries. 5 they don’t really care what happens in your Chimney. I’m sure there are other reasons, but I don’t have the time
I've never seen pine for sale as firewood except in places that only had pine or fir forests.
You don't get around much do you. RUclips, watch other vloggers there allover.
@@homesteadknowhow
@@homesteadknowhowyep,…and that’s how it is around our area. Your options are pine, spruce, fir, aspen, shaggy and alligator juniper, and a little bit of oak. Pine burns very clean when it’s seasoned, and very dirty when unseasoned.
@amandadavis9726 I'm currently growing poplar and willow for firewood
@@homesteadknowhow gotta use whatever is available, lol.
Some regions only have softwoods available locally. This goes for far north and mountain regions
My grandfather burned mostly Cedar and Aspen in northern Michigan.
@@homesteadknowhow if you can get heat and no chimney fire, then you're good. Subscribed!
Pine is about my only option in Wyoming.
Thanks, dry is the key😊
It's hard to keep wood good and dry this time of year. We get a lot of rain as the temperatures start cooling down. I usually have a nice stack near the stove to finish drying.
I burn pine, once its fully seasoned nd dry, it burns hot nd theres no creosote , doesnt last long but very hot
Cuz #hoboscience
Would you cook a burger over pine ?
I sure would.
I have Pine and Juniper. I'm going to start using the Pine as a starter because the Juniper is hard to start. I need to see if somebody makes clean out box for the stove pipe. Cheers
I've not found Juniper to be too hard to start, but perhaps I simply spit it smaller. Either way, good luck!
@@homesteadknowhow Thanks. I'm not sure why it's been so hard to start lately. Maybe because I've been cutting dead stuff but it's still not dry enough. Idk. I wasn't gonna burn pine but now I will.
Wet wood burns dirty. Seasoned wood burns cleaner.
You got that right.
If it is dry thers nothing wrong with burning it,, if it is green thats a different story
That's the truth.
Hello my new friend..... I like a piece of pine when I have the screen on my Woodstove just for the crackle... Where are you located... Great video and I look forward to seeing more... Stop by I'm about to do a 1k sub giveaway... Silver rounds... Have a blessed day
I'm in Ensley Center, halfway tween Grand Rapids and Big Rapids. I do like the crackle too.
@@homesteadknowhow nice I'm in Gaylord mi....
I go to Gaylord every year.
@@homesteadknowhow AWESOME... What do you come up here for
@@HomesteadingNorthernMichigan camping and to see the Elk Park
keep burning pine if you want a possible chimney fire
That's not what the data or the experts say these days. I can't argue against solid empirical evidence.
I burned pine in the same wood stove for 10 years and never had a problem. That stove was our only heat source. I cleaned the chimney stack out twice a year and burned only seasoned wood.
I been burning 1 year old dry pine and no smoke comes out the chimney once its rolling
I do
Good video when it comes to debunking some of the folklore. I agree. Pine is fine. We have a wood furnace (beside the electric furnace) that will hold a couple of armfuls of wood. We burn beetle-killed (already dead, in other words) lodgepole that spends our hot summer in a south facing open woodshed. By winter, it's bone dry. We've got a block chimney with an 8 inch stainless flue.The cap needs cleaning in the spring but always less than 1/8" powdery creosote on the top several feet of the chimney. Rest of it is clean as a whistle and takes just a couple of minutes to do the job. Not that I'd want to do it for a living.
We live in Ponderosa forest/grassland with some Douglas Fir. The Ponderosa in these parts is almost impossible to split by hand as it's so gnarly and not much fun with a hydraulic splitter either. So higher elevation lodgepole is preferred. Some people around here think that Fir is a gourmet firewood but compared to the pine, they'll pay 50% more per cord for a 15% increase in BTUs. In southern BC, split lodgepole runs $320-350 a cord. That's pricey enough.