I’ve had mine for almost 30 yrs now. Bought it when it was a catalog only item and paid $239.00 plus shipping. Just bought the HF large wheel vice but still need to install it. It lifts my 1000lb Goldwing with no problem even though it’s maxed out. 90% of u-tubers have one and everyone modifies for their specific needs. Still using the foot pump but at least these 70 yr old legs get some exercise. A sheet of 4X8 plywood on top for my ATV and riding mower or just as an extra workbench. One of the best things I ever purchased. I’m happy.🏍🏍
Buy two bolts long enough to reach from the floor of the lift to the floor of your garage when the lift is fully lowered. Attach one to each front corner of the lift, extending down toward the floor. Adjust the bolts till they are in firm contact with the floor when the lift is fully lowered. They will prevent the lift from tilting forward, but won't interfere with anything else. Job done!
I don't understand why I see so many people who buy these lifts waste so much money pointlessly. I get we all need to make a few mods to our HF lifts but think them through guys. Here are my points, 1) why would you Waste time and money to cover the entire lift with grip tape? A motorcycle has 2 wheels that are in line fellas, one strip down the center is all ya need. 2) I don't know about y'all but I actually use my lifts to work on my bikes! With that said, working on and or building my bikes makes a mess of solvents like break cleaner, oils and hydro fluids, fuel, grease, etc. If you cover the lift 100% you have now created mult issues for yourself as well as will be wasting even more money as time goes because not only will you always have an uncleanavle mess from the fluids but also your grip tape is going to deteriorate and come loose due to the oils and solvents that have dissolved the adhesive and eaten away at the nonslip coating making a rat nasty mess of it all. 3. Your going to tear up your arms and skin working basicly on sandpaper surface all day. Ok enough on the bad grip tape idea I see so many doing. Here is my wisdom for y'all as I do have 2 of these lifts and a bike collection of 12 bikes and growing regularly. I use my lifts for my bikes, SXSs, and as my fab/welding table. So here goes, Do not use grip tape!!! Bad idea all together & don't cover the entire surface either as I explained why above. Go buy yourselves a small can of denatured alcohol and 1 spray can (same as spray paint can size) of rubberized bed liner. Clean off a center section 10" wide full length, sand it or red scotchbright to scuff it real good. Then wipe clean again and final wide with the denatured alcohol. Then do 3 coats of the spray on bed liner products with 30 minutes between coats and your done. It will be impervious to all oils and solvents and last lifetime. Then with a red scotchbright just roughen up the rest of the painted top surface and it will break the gloss coat and slickness. I actually used the same HF wheel cradles but installed them as a quick release unit so I could pull them when using lift as my fab table or to lift my RZR. It was super easy to fabricate the quick release system and is solid and tight when in place. Sand oe burn the paint off the base around the 4 bolt holes. Take 4 grade 8 carriage bolts and drop them into the wheel cradle base and drop into your holes in lift, take cotter pins and hold flush on underside of lift platform mark with sharpie were pin end contacts bolt. Pull bolts back out and drill holes sized to match cotters at mark made and reinsert into cradle base and fully tig or mig weld them in place. Drop the now complete unit into the holes you drilled in lift and insert your pins through the holes you drilled in the carriage bolt stems and your good to go. Works awsome. The other big thing to do that cost $10 or less is to fab up a real safety anti drop mechanism. Easy enough with 4 sticks of black pipe and 4 pieces of u channel steal with holes drilled in to run a 1/2 grade 8 bolt and lock nut through the channel with the black pipe cut to length of table to floor at full lift. You can bolt or weld the channel to the underside of lift at all 4 corners to secure to lift. I got threaded black pipe so I could screw on feet to ends that rest on floor. Bought 8 yard tool handle holders for the pipe to push lock into for storage when lift is down or lock legs are not needed. I'm sure you get the idea of the design and installation I'm talking about here to you can figure ot out and do it to your lifts. I only made them as a extra safety because of using lift for my big heavy bikes and my RZR so to protect both myself and my toys as well as anything around lift if it was to fail. I also made 4 retractable tie down point extentions that flip out 12 in at front and back side corners of lift to secure my bikes when up and being worked on. Never been a fan of strapped straight down from bars to lift. Doesn't give true anti tip securabilities, you need to beabke to strap down at an outward angle away from bike center to have true and solid anti tip anchor points. Hope my BS helps if not no worries
I used the biggest wheel chock HF had. It is like a stand alone for trucks and trailers. Has more adjustability and holds it much more securely. It was only like $75 and I have no issues leaving it without straps but it has 2 eyes on the outbound sides to strap to
It's not a flaw in the design that when the platform is lowered that it's forward biased. It is designed to be centered when it is raised. If you want a lift to be centered when lowered, then a scissor style would be a better choice. I also use that same wheel chock. I separated it from its base and bolted it directly to the lift. This way the 4 bolts are spaced wider and the chock is steadier.
Add two half-inch by 10-inch long bolts to each side of the front. Two nuts, one under the lift and the other on top, to secure the bolt. Adjust to take the pressure when the lift is down. I have a 700 pound Harley parked on my Harbor Freight lift, and it's totally secure. I do NOT use a wheel chock. I use safety straps to lock the bike down when I'm working on it. The lift is totally worth the money and super safe when you mod it appropriately. I'll subscribe and share my lift mods as well.
You should use a couple of tie straps to hold and stabilize. I agree with your assessment that the front wheel chock you're using is cheap. I moved on and got one that has adjustable sides that can really squeeze that front tire and it made a world of difference. However, no matter what chock is used, I would always recommend a couple straps to tie the machine down. Just an FYI, my bikes range from Gold Wings to Harley touring bikes. So they are much heavier than your sport bike, so I like to make sure falling over is not a thing!
Yeah to avoid the hassle of using straps everytime, since I park my bike on it everynight due to space, I always use a restand for stability. If i didnt, I would definitely have to strap it down. The issue I am experiencing now is air in the system and the lift slowly dropping over time. Ive tried bleeding by pumping both foot levers but I think I need to do something else and I am trying to figure it out. Trying to make the best out of the purchase.
appreciate you going through this to show us what not to buy. that grip tape is going to suck if you spill something. if i can offer a suggestion, i wrap my pitbull stands with a rubbery grip around the parts that touch the floor/lift (like a tennis racket handle). that way it provides some grip and the bike doesn't move easily and also protects the metal from not wearing so fast and just re-wrap them when i need to.
Thanks for the suggestion. In my original review video, without the grip tape, my front tire actually slide across the stand and I almost lost the bike. So far the sand paper has been a good fix and is easily/cheaply replaceable. I will also be wrapping my pitbull stands though. That's a great idea!
great mod I notice your front chuck is too far forward the weight of the bike has to be behind the front wheels my idea is to put your rear tire as far back as possible. every motorcycle is going to be fitted to the lift.** center of the lift is behind the front wheels ** it will flip forward in the UP position if the bike is too far to the front...
Looks good bro, you definitely did a great job. Still movement but drastically better than what it came with right. I used that lower hole to decrease that rear lift that is experienced when pushing the bike in. There's definitely some play side to side when using that lower hole but I always use the pit bull stand in conjunction with the wheel chalk when parking the bike on the lift. I often sit on the bike when it's up there and have been working on my bike for about 2 years now using the setup and never felt worried my bike was in danger or overly moving. Once the rear stand is on its locked in. All said, it was a great video and break down of what and how you did it. Great follow up video 🙌🏾 🏍️🏁
Thank you for the feedback! So I noticed that the middle whole on the chock pushed the front tire in more, pinched the wheel and reduced the sway. I might try the top hole and move the chock back 6 inches and see if it helps. We are exploring ways to make this thing solid! Im committed haha
Awesome video. Love the tape idea and the other suggestions about using Rhino liner. Looking to get one to work on my Goldwing. Bike has 173,000 miles on it and all original so gonna to a bit of maintenance on it this winter. And hey nice chicken strips by the way. Thanks again for the helpful video. Dave
I parked a 1000 Lb Goldwing on it every night with that chock, it's that skinny ass tire that makes that chock loose, put the pivot in the top notch and see if that helps. needless to say a Goldwing will make the lift tilt forward when you ride it on, I screwed two wood blocks to the underside of the front of the lift table and that stopped that. They go up and down with the lift and don't create a trip hazard like they would if on the floor...
I put the same wheel chock on mine. It's only to hold the bike till I get the tie-down straps cinched up. The removeable rear wheel plate makes the H-F lift worth it.
I ended up removing it and using the baxley chock in the front. The pittsburgh chock never kept it upright without using my rearstand. It got pretty annoying.
FYI. Prep the ramp by cleaning it with a grease-cutting cleaner, then wipe it down with alcohol. It's a good idea about the grip tape. I'm going to do it myself.
I used the same wheel chuck on my lift, the only thing I did different was I didn't use the bottom plate I removed it so I could have the wheel chuck flat with the platform of the lift. Also I don't trust that chuck to hold my bike by itself I use tie-downs to secure it to the table. I have no problems at all mine works great. I think a little of the issue you are having is to much weight on the front of your lift. My bike being a harley seems like it is balanced different than your street bike! But I believe if you move your chuck back about 6 inches and if you use a few tie-down straps on the front you would be fine. (If you continue to use your rear stand I doubt you need any tie-downs on the front. Also if you get it balanced you probably feel better about this product I've had my HF lift almost 8 years with no issues. My bike usually sits on the lift all winter in the up position. Great video, I hope I was able to help
I saw in another video where a guy had mounted a block of wood to the front of his lift. I wondered about it until I saw your table tilt forward. My bike is made out of heavy so I will definitely be figuring out that block of wood trick.
I have the same lift, although up here in Canaduh, we have Princess Auto instead of Harbor Freight I also keep my Sportster on it when I'm not riding. Not worried at all!
I'm gonna run one seamless strip down the middle so the tape won't lift at the seams. No need for grip tape on the sides. Maybe three roles of tape will work. It might be the wheel chock you settled on. It doesn't tightly capture the tire at all. The other black HF chock seems to work better. It squeezes on the tire.
Yeah I definitely will be removing the rest of the tape and have a good strip down the middle. Also looking into the other chock as well. This one doesn't capture the tire like you said, and also flexes a lot from side to side.
Good ideas to making the lift safer and more functional. Subbed to try and help you get more subs. Heavier cruisers on the same stand work well with minimal mods. I'll share what I did with the same stand at some point. Meantime, keep up the good work.
I have the same table and I used the really cheap 3 piece tube wheel chock( I always uses straps anyway). I just use drop in pins in the top loop section of the chock that way I can strap down the back of the bike use a scissor jack under the front of the frame and still easily remove front wheels and forks without removing the chock from the table. That of course wouldn't work on your sportbike.
Could not use that chock for my goldwing 1500. It's sides are too high and hit the plastic on my wheel. Used an alternative. I also added two blocks under the front edge if the table that keeps the front from dipping or rocking during loading
Nice work on the lift, sucks its not great. Maybe sell it n get a used one from a shop? On the wheel chalk it will have a spinner handle to pinch the front wheel. Idk how much they cost but they r strong, n seem to work good. I was service writer at Waynesville Cycle Western NC. The big 4 brands. We had them, MR Motorcycle in Asheville NC has them to. Must be standard workshop model
Also you could make the lift that you currently have better by adding feet possibly some more stabilization underneath. Also if you could add tire guide metal bars that you could screw down and make it more solid maybe but it could add a front lip at the same time I don't know it sounds like a lot of work honestly but it could be worth it
Lived in Asheville in the 70s, worked at the Yamaha dealer. on Tunnel rd. , $14.00 per hr, to pdi / assemble bikes, out of the crate. Rode my 71 r5 350 2 stroke, to Waynesville at night, opened the " new" Shoneys there.
If you would have placed metal square tubbing blocks the correct size and bolted them under the lift that might have prevent the lift from tipping forward . I have an 900 pound plus Harley davidson, would you feel comfortable recommending the lift if a few mods were added.. thanks Pete
Yes, I think the lift still needs some modifications. I am going to do a follow up video on some issues I am running in to now. I am not sure if I can recommend it.
I know this 2 years ago but I am just seeing this and what I did, I put a condor chalk and a short piece 4x4 up front under the lift so the back end doesn't come up like yours did. I bought the same chalk for my trailer to have 2 bikes in it and hate it.
Moving it back on the table would help balance the load, but would it work for all the bikes you work on. A simple answer would be to add something to the front to keep it from tilting forward, BUT, you really need to lift the whole bike and see how solid it would be balance wise. I still think moving the chock back a min of 6 inches would make it more stable. Right now it is front biased. One other idea would be to move the front feet all the way forward. That would be my first move.
The link you placed on this site brother shows the skateboard grip. How many rolls did you get or was that just one purchase? Thanks again looking to do my set up like yours
Add some wood or concrete blocks under the front of the lift, that should helping the lift from nose diving forward. Use a better wheel choke like a condor, that might be better. Good video.
In the original Stand that I got and I bought three of them over 15 years ago was the same type that that you have put on your Lyft had side wheel spacers that actually went into the front inside of the tires in that wheel chock to allow you to grip that front tire better side to side. You could make some nice would be asses that would fit alongside your front tires which would allow your bike not to go side to side in that front wheel chock if you did not get any with that wheel chock
You can either use bolts as supports at the front of the table to act as legs or also bolt the entire hoist to the ground it’s the design of the hoist and not having anything under the front that’s got you tipping
Yep I’ve noticed that. It’s not that much of an issue since I moved the chock back about 6 inches. My only issue now is I think I need to bleed because it’s slowly letting out. I have to use the safety bar to keep it raised. No clue how to bleed it though.
How has the grip tape held up? I would think rhino liner may work better? Do you think you can drive a car over the lift? Hoping I can store under my car.
I jus tbought this. Why cover teh whole table? All you need is a center strip up the ramp and maybe for the front wheel. I bought the other wheel chock. I plan on adding eye bolts. Never noticed the front dip in anyone elses vids. Saw a guy put rubber feet on his also for the levelrs to keep it from sliding.
@@MotoViceOfficial I had a suggestion from a buddy. drill some holes on the leading edge and them run some long bolts through to act as a "anti-endo" devise. I was thinking a 2x4. I guess the other vids didn't want to show the front tilt.
The chock is fine. It's location is the issue. Move it back a few inches. There's no reason to have it all the way forward like that. I would measure the distance (front to back) between the holes you drilled and drill one more on each side the same distance back. I have my Harelys in the same chock on the same lift all winter long and there is absolutely no reason to be afraid of it falling over. The chock is more than strong enough. You are shaking the bike back and forth like you're in the middle of an earthquake... of course the metal is going to flex a little. Put a strap on each side and you'll be golden.
1: You have order grip paint. 2: All wheel chock are same it has nothing with being cheap made also handlebar straps are need. 3: You could have gotten the wheel vise attachment.
I would have checked where the rear tire lines up and adjusted it to where removal of the rear tire could still be removed comfortably. That'll probably take the forward rock out of the lift.
Do you weld any at all , if so the vertical flat metal in the front of the Chak is flexing if you weld a 1/2” flat material on each side will stop the flexing and strengthen it tremendously.
@@p.russell5597. I just put my bikes on backwards but the wheel chock might not work with today’s fat back tires . A wheel vice would be better. Most of my bikes are older so tire width isn’t much of a problem but for my Goldwing I remove the wheel vice.
The back lifts because your bike/weight isn't centered. I've used this wheel chock for 18 years and it holds up a 850 lb bike. Yes it wiggles because you have unsupported (side to side) 2/3rds of the bike. Mine held up to a now X wife trying as had as she could to knock the bike over and couldn't. Be sensible, riding the bike and parking it is one thing. Lifting it with proper tie downs the proper way is another. The chock is not "cheap" as associated with harbor freight
I can understand the grip tape, but I don't understand installing it thar far front. You'll be installing the chock in the center front and the front wheel won't be going to the right or left of the chock.
Well with a supersport, my R1 was long. I also needed room in the rear for my rearstand. I dont use straps. Just a chock and a rearstand in the back. The chock was terrible and would not keep the bike straight unless i used a rear stand.
Why don't you jack the ramp up save your back .why are you bending when it lifts up is that not the while point of the ramp... OK I see you worked it out. If you had started from the bottom of the ramp going left to right with the tape you would have had enough to cover it all .also where the front wheel clamp your fitting you would not have needed to cover it . As you won't see it anyway . . Good video it help others to do theres right .as iv just ordered my tape Cheers
I know this is an older video at this point but a way better upgrade is to use a wheel chock like the Condor Trailer chock or even the more recent one that HF has been selling. They have a capture piece at the front hat pinches the tire in and it is so stable. I've never needed straps or had a concern about the stability of the bike, doing anything. I can lift it from underneath with a lift jack and swap out parts on the rear and with no issue what so ever. I bought mine from a fellow that had already set it up but looking back I would have probably ended up doing the same thing because it works so well. This link is to the video of my lift, from the guy who sold it to me. ruclips.net/video/hvNgtP0zzbk/видео.html
The first time your bike falls of the table you will wish you would have bought a Handy Lift. The price of the Harbor Frieght lift and the damages to your bike could far exceed the price of a handy lift
So yu bought a lift just to park on, it's made to work on bikes it's fine to put the bike on it every night, but now it's useless for actual work on the bike and hard on tools?
Hahaha after looking back yes i didnt need all the grip tape but i didnt want bolts/screws rolling easily on the metal surface. Black also helps me see if i dropped something easier.
You should not have put the chock so far towards the front. Also, you have an expensive bike on the lift, yet cheap out on the chock to hold the bike. Makes no sense to me. Buy a real chock and it will do what you want it to do....keep your motorcycle upright and safe.
Move the chock back. Once lift is up it won't have all the weight over the front. Bike should still be strapped down. Chocks aren't meant as soul holder. You seem kinda green to me.
man id add the center piece. bet your bike is embarassed , id beup all night worrying about how it looks lol motorcycles have feeling too ya know.probably thinks you dont love her .
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Truck bed liner works great also. No worrying about tape not sticking to the diamonds or oil leaking and lifting up your tape.
I’ve had mine for almost 30 yrs now. Bought it when it was a catalog only item and paid $239.00 plus shipping. Just bought the HF large wheel vice but still need to install it. It lifts my 1000lb Goldwing with no problem even though it’s maxed out. 90% of u-tubers have one and everyone modifies for their specific needs. Still using the foot pump but at least these 70 yr old legs get some exercise. A sheet of 4X8 plywood on top for my ATV and riding mower or just as an extra workbench. One of the best things I ever purchased. I’m happy.🏍🏍
Buy two bolts long enough to reach from the floor of the lift to the floor of your garage when the lift is fully lowered. Attach one to each front corner of the lift, extending down toward the floor. Adjust the bolts till they are in firm contact with the floor when the lift is fully lowered. They will prevent the lift from tilting forward, but won't interfere with anything else. Job done!
Thank you! Yeah im running into other issues now. The tilting is the least of my problems now ha
i used 6in swivel casters for that so it supports it and i can move it loaded
I don't understand why I see so many people who buy these lifts waste so much money pointlessly. I get we all need to make a few mods to our HF lifts but think them through guys. Here are my points,
1) why would you Waste time and money to cover the entire lift with grip tape? A motorcycle has 2 wheels that are in line fellas, one strip down the center is all ya need.
2) I don't know about y'all but I actually use my lifts to work on my bikes! With that said, working on and or building my bikes makes a mess of solvents like break cleaner, oils and hydro fluids, fuel, grease, etc. If you cover the lift 100% you have now created mult issues for yourself as well as will be wasting even more money as time goes because not only will you always have an uncleanavle mess from the fluids but also your grip tape is going to deteriorate and come loose due to the oils and solvents that have dissolved the adhesive and eaten away at the nonslip coating making a rat nasty mess of it all.
3. Your going to tear up your arms and skin working basicly on sandpaper surface all day.
Ok enough on the bad grip tape idea I see so many doing. Here is my wisdom for y'all as I do have 2 of these lifts and a bike collection of 12 bikes and growing regularly. I use my lifts for my bikes, SXSs, and as my fab/welding table. So here goes,
Do not use grip tape!!! Bad idea all together & don't cover the entire surface either as I explained why above.
Go buy yourselves a small can of denatured alcohol and 1 spray can (same as spray paint can size) of rubberized bed liner. Clean off a center section 10" wide full length, sand it or red scotchbright to scuff it real good. Then wipe clean again and final wide with the denatured alcohol. Then do 3 coats of the spray on bed liner products with 30 minutes between coats and your done. It will be impervious to all oils and solvents and last lifetime.
Then with a red scotchbright just roughen up the rest of the painted top surface and it will break the gloss coat and slickness. I actually used the same HF wheel cradles but installed them as a quick release unit so I could pull them when using lift as my fab table or to lift my RZR. It was super easy to fabricate the quick release system and is solid and tight when in place. Sand oe burn the paint off the base around the 4 bolt holes. Take 4 grade 8 carriage bolts and drop them into the wheel cradle base and drop into your holes in lift, take cotter pins and hold flush on underside of lift platform mark with sharpie were pin end contacts bolt. Pull bolts back out and drill holes sized to match cotters at mark made and reinsert into cradle base and fully tig or mig weld them in place. Drop the now complete unit into the holes you drilled in lift and insert your pins through the holes you drilled in the carriage bolt stems and your good to go. Works awsome.
The other big thing to do that cost $10 or less is to fab up a real safety anti drop mechanism. Easy enough with 4 sticks of black pipe and 4 pieces of u channel steal with holes drilled in to run a 1/2 grade 8 bolt and lock nut through the channel with the black pipe cut to length of table to floor at full lift. You can bolt or weld the channel to the underside of lift at all 4 corners to secure to lift. I got threaded black pipe so I could screw on feet to ends that rest on floor. Bought 8 yard tool handle holders for the pipe to push lock into for storage when lift is down or lock legs are not needed. I'm sure you get the idea of the design and installation I'm talking about here to you can figure ot out and do it to your lifts. I only made them as a extra safety because of using lift for my big heavy bikes and my RZR so to protect both myself and my toys as well as anything around lift if it was to fail.
I also made 4 retractable tie down point extentions that flip out 12 in at front and back side corners of lift to secure my bikes when up and being worked on. Never been a fan of strapped straight down from bars to lift. Doesn't give true anti tip securabilities, you need to beabke to strap down at an outward angle away from bike center to have true and solid anti tip anchor points.
Hope my BS helps if not no worries
I used the biggest wheel chock HF had. It is like a stand alone for trucks and trailers. Has more adjustability and holds it much more securely. It was only like $75 and I have no issues leaving it without straps but it has 2 eyes on the outbound sides to strap to
Where from brother
Another simple way to get grip is some brush or spray on bed liner, works great.
Oh yeah! That’s a good idea. What’s the brand called again? Rhinoliner?
It's not a flaw in the design that when the platform is lowered that it's forward biased. It is designed to be centered when it is raised. If you want a lift to be centered when lowered, then a scissor style would be a better choice. I also use that same wheel chock. I separated it from its base and bolted it directly to the lift. This way the 4 bolts are spaced wider and the chock is steadier.
Thanks for the feedback. Good idea!
Add two half-inch by 10-inch long bolts to each side of the front. Two nuts, one under the lift and the other on top, to secure the bolt. Adjust to take the pressure when the lift is down. I have a 700 pound Harley parked on my Harbor Freight lift, and it's totally secure. I do NOT use a wheel chock. I use safety straps to lock the bike down when I'm working on it. The lift is totally worth the money and super safe when you mod it appropriately. I'll subscribe and share my lift mods as well.
You should use a couple of tie straps to hold and stabilize. I agree with your assessment that the front wheel chock you're using is cheap. I moved on and got one that has adjustable sides that can really squeeze that front tire and it made a world of difference. However, no matter what chock is used, I would always recommend a couple straps to tie the machine down.
Just an FYI, my bikes range from Gold Wings to Harley touring bikes. So they are much heavier than your sport bike, so I like to make sure falling over is not a thing!
Yeah to avoid the hassle of using straps everytime, since I park my bike on it everynight due to space, I always use a restand for stability. If i didnt, I would definitely have to strap it down.
The issue I am experiencing now is air in the system and the lift slowly dropping over time. Ive tried bleeding by pumping both foot levers but I think I need to do something else and I am trying to figure it out. Trying to make the best out of the purchase.
appreciate you going through this to show us what not to buy. that grip tape is going to suck if you spill something. if i can offer a suggestion, i wrap my pitbull stands with a rubbery grip around the parts that touch the floor/lift (like a tennis racket handle). that way it provides some grip and the bike doesn't move easily and also protects the metal from not wearing so fast and just re-wrap them when i need to.
Thanks for the suggestion. In my original review video, without the grip tape, my front tire actually slide across the stand and I almost lost the bike. So far the sand paper has been a good fix and is easily/cheaply replaceable. I will also be wrapping my pitbull stands though. That's a great idea!
great mod I notice your front chuck is too far forward the weight of the bike has to be behind the front wheels my idea is to put your rear tire as far back as possible. every motorcycle is going to be fitted to the lift.** center of the lift is behind the front wheels ** it will flip forward in the UP position if the bike is too far to the front...
Yep and that's exactly what I did and I am having a better experience. Going to do a follow up review again after the changes!
Looks good bro, you definitely did a great job. Still movement but drastically better than what it came with right. I used that lower hole to decrease that rear lift that is experienced when pushing the bike in. There's definitely some play side to side when using that lower hole but I always use the pit bull stand in conjunction with the wheel chalk when parking the bike on the lift. I often sit on the bike when it's up there and have been working on my bike for about 2 years now using the setup and never felt worried my bike was in danger or overly moving. Once the rear stand is on its locked in. All said, it was a great video and break down of what and how you did it. Great follow up video 🙌🏾 🏍️🏁
Thank you for the feedback! So I noticed that the middle whole on the chock pushed the front tire in more, pinched the wheel and reduced the sway. I might try the top hole and move the chock back 6 inches and see if it helps. We are exploring ways to make this thing solid! Im committed haha
Awesome video. Love the tape idea and the other suggestions about using Rhino liner. Looking to get one to work on my Goldwing. Bike has 173,000 miles on it and all original so gonna to a bit of maintenance on it this winter. And hey nice chicken strips by the way. Thanks again for the helpful video. Dave
I parked a 1000 Lb Goldwing on it every night with that chock, it's that skinny ass tire that makes that chock loose, put the pivot in the top notch and see if that helps. needless to say a Goldwing will make the lift tilt forward when you ride it on, I screwed two wood blocks to the underside of the front of the lift table and that stopped that. They go up and down with the lift and don't create a trip hazard like they would if on the floor...
I put the same wheel chock on mine. It's only to hold the bike till I get the tie-down straps cinched up. The removeable rear wheel plate makes the H-F lift worth it.
I ended up removing it and using the baxley chock in the front. The pittsburgh chock never kept it upright without using my rearstand. It got pretty annoying.
FYI. Prep the ramp by cleaning it with a grease-cutting cleaner, then wipe it down with alcohol. It's a good idea about the grip tape. I'm going to do it myself.
I used the same wheel chuck on my lift, the only thing I did different was I didn't use the bottom plate I removed it so I could have the wheel chuck flat with the platform of the lift. Also I don't trust that chuck to hold my bike by itself I use tie-downs to secure it to the table. I have no problems at all mine works great. I think a little of the issue you are having is to much weight on the front of your lift. My bike being a harley seems like it is balanced different than your street bike! But I believe if you move your chuck back about 6 inches and if you use a few tie-down straps on the front you would be fine. (If you continue to use your rear stand I doubt you need any tie-downs on the front. Also if you get it balanced you probably feel better about this product I've had my HF lift almost 8 years with no issues. My bike usually sits on the lift all winter in the up position. Great video, I hope I was able to help
you could get some threaded rods and make feet for the front.
I saw in another video where a guy had mounted a block of wood to the front of his lift. I wondered about it until I saw your table tilt forward. My bike is made out of heavy so I will definitely be figuring out that block of wood trick.
I have the same lift, although up here in Canaduh, we have Princess Auto instead of Harbor Freight I also keep my Sportster on it when I'm not riding. Not worried at all!
I'm gonna run one seamless strip down the middle so the tape won't lift at the seams. No need for grip tape on the sides. Maybe three roles of tape will work. It might be the wheel chock you settled on. It doesn't tightly capture the tire at all. The other black HF chock seems to work better. It squeezes on the tire.
Yeah I definitely will be removing the rest of the tape and have a good strip down the middle. Also looking into the other chock as well. This one doesn't capture the tire like you said, and also flexes a lot from side to side.
Good ideas to making the lift safer and more functional. Subbed to try and help you get more subs. Heavier cruisers on the same stand work well with minimal mods. I'll share what I did with the same stand at some point. Meantime, keep up the good work.
I have the same table and I used the really cheap 3 piece tube wheel chock( I always uses straps anyway). I just use drop in pins in the top loop section of the chock that way I can strap down the back of the bike use a scissor jack under the front of the frame and still easily remove front wheels and forks without removing the chock from the table. That of course wouldn't work on your sportbike.
I ordered a 35 foot roll by 12” so there’s no gaps. Should’ve used different colors to make the Frankenstein look.
..
Yes two bolts with spacers
at each corner in the front
ought to do the trick
Thank you
Be Well
...
Could not use that chock for my goldwing 1500. It's sides are too high and hit the plastic on my wheel. Used an alternative. I also added two blocks under the front edge if the table that keeps the front from dipping or rocking during loading
Nice work on the lift, sucks its not great.
Maybe sell it n get a used one from a shop?
On the wheel chalk it will have a spinner handle to pinch the front wheel.
Idk how much they cost but they r strong, n seem to work good.
I was service writer at Waynesville Cycle Western NC. The big 4 brands.
We had them, MR Motorcycle in Asheville NC has them to. Must be standard workshop model
Also you could make the lift that you currently have better by adding feet possibly some more stabilization underneath. Also if you could add tire guide metal bars that you could screw down and make it more solid maybe but it could add a front lip at the same time I don't know it sounds like a lot of work honestly but it could be worth it
Yeah we will see and continue trying to make it better. We have plenty of time to brain storm haha
Lived in Asheville in the 70s, worked at the Yamaha dealer. on Tunnel rd. , $14.00 per hr, to pdi / assemble bikes, out of the crate. Rode my 71 r5 350 2 stroke, to Waynesville at night, opened the " new" Shoneys there.
If you would have placed metal square tubbing blocks the correct size and bolted them under the lift that might have prevent the lift from tipping forward . I have an 900 pound plus Harley davidson, would you feel comfortable recommending the lift if a few mods were added.. thanks Pete
Yes, I think the lift still needs some modifications. I am going to do a follow up video on some issues I am running in to now. I am not sure if I can recommend it.
Looks good. Those chocks are a pain in the ass with a heavy touring bike.
If you haven’t already fixed the tipping forward problem. Maybe a couple of truck bump stops underneath to keep it from tipping forward
I know this 2 years ago but I am just seeing this and what I did, I put a condor chalk and a short piece 4x4 up front under the lift so the back end doesn't come up like yours did. I bought the same chalk for my trailer to have 2 bikes in it and hate it.
Nice video and I appreciate your honesty.
Moving it back on the table would help balance the load, but would it work for all the bikes you work on. A simple answer would be to add something to the front to keep it from tilting forward, BUT, you really need to lift the whole bike and see how solid it would be balance wise. I still think moving the chock back a min of 6 inches would make it more stable. Right now it is front biased. One other idea would be to move the front feet all the way forward. That would be my first move.
The link you placed on this site brother shows the skateboard grip. How many rolls did you get or was that just one purchase? Thanks again looking to do my set up like yours
I bought “conformable” grip (more expensive) so that it adheres properly to diamond plate steel..
I think yours will come off eventually
Mine is coming off on some edges. Where did you get yours?!
Add some wood or concrete blocks under the front of the lift, that should helping the lift from nose diving forward. Use a better wheel choke like a condor, that might be better. Good video.
Thanks for the tips!
In the original Stand that I got and I bought three of them over 15 years ago was the same type that that you have put on your Lyft had side wheel spacers that actually went into the front inside of the tires in that wheel chock to allow you to grip that front tire better side to side. You could make some nice would be asses that would fit alongside your front tires which would allow your bike not to go side to side in that front wheel chock if you did not get any with that wheel chock
Rubber floor stopper in front to stop tilt something like a wheel chock underneath front would even work
Yeah good suggestion. I will look into it!
You can either use bolts as supports at the front of the table to act as legs or also bolt the entire hoist to the ground it’s the design of the hoist and not having anything under the front that’s got you tipping
Yep I’ve noticed that. It’s not that much of an issue since I moved the chock back about 6 inches. My only issue now is I think I need to bleed because it’s slowly letting out. I have to use the safety bar to keep it raised. No clue how to bleed it though.
How has the grip tape held up? I would think rhino liner may work better? Do you think you can drive a car over the lift? Hoping I can store under my car.
I jus tbought this. Why cover teh whole table? All you need is a center strip up the ramp and maybe for the front wheel. I bought the other wheel chock. I plan on adding eye bolts. Never noticed the front dip in anyone elses vids. Saw a guy put rubber feet on his also for the levelrs to keep it from sliding.
Yeah it doesn’t slide but tilts forward so I’m going to move the chock back. I probably over did the grip tape but is what it is. 😂😂
@@MotoViceOfficial I had a suggestion from a buddy. drill some holes on the leading edge and them run some long bolts through to act as a "anti-endo" devise. I was thinking a 2x4. I guess the other vids didn't want to show the front tilt.
Two strips down the middle would have sufficed! Your tool rest doesn’t need grip!,
Yeah i realized that afterwards haha.
The chock is fine. It's location is the issue. Move it back a few inches. There's no reason to have it all the way forward like that. I would measure the distance (front to back) between the holes you drilled and drill one more on each side the same distance back. I have my Harelys in the same chock on the same lift all winter long and there is absolutely no reason to be afraid of it falling over. The chock is more than strong enough. You are shaking the bike back and forth like you're in the middle of an earthquake... of course the metal is going to flex a little. Put a strap on each side and you'll be golden.
1: You have order grip paint. 2: All wheel chock are same it has nothing with being cheap made also handlebar straps are need. 3: You could have gotten the wheel vise attachment.
I would move that wheel chock back. Drill some more holes to allow adjustability for different length bikes. The bike is too far forward on the lift.
I’ve got the same lift and chock, I load a Harley ultra classic on it doesn’t tilt up when I ride it on.
There are adjustments bolts on the front
I would have checked where the rear tire lines up and adjusted it to where removal of the rear tire could still be removed comfortably. That'll probably take the forward rock out of the lift.
Thank you. I didnt get a chance to do an update video but we used our baxley chock and it fixed everything.
Do you weld any at all , if so the vertical flat metal in the front of the Chak is flexing if you weld a 1/2” flat material on each side will stop the flexing and strengthen it tremendously.
Most people just do a strip down the middle where the tires make contact
Just put an 8x8 block of wood under the front that you can move when needed ! Not sure what size ya need !
how did the grip tape work out? did it stay stuck good? and did the grit stay gritty
Rematch pending 😏
Backing up that wheel chaulk would help the balance on that.
Yep that’s exactly what I did and it’s made a big difference.
What if you welded some sort of brace bars to the outside of it.
You should still use tie down to hold the motorcycle. Grip tape not good idea , can't clean up oil spills easy. .
How are you going to get oil and grease off of that nonskid when you work on the bike when it’s on the lift ?
Do you have the original black angular front wheel stop from the original wheel chock? I'm looking for one.
How is the tape holding up?
No problems gettin my heavy ass Harleys on and off it!!
How are you going to change your front tyre or remove the forks? Remove the wheel chock?
I put a table jack on the lift table. Pretty sure most people do it that way.
@@p.russell5597. I just put my bikes on backwards but the wheel chock might not work with today’s fat back tires . A wheel vice would be better. Most of my bikes are older so tire width isn’t much of a problem but for my Goldwing I remove the wheel vice.
How would you work on the front wheel?
The back lifts because your bike/weight isn't centered.
I've used this wheel chock for 18 years and it holds up a 850 lb bike. Yes it wiggles because you have unsupported (side to side) 2/3rds of the bike. Mine held up to a now X wife trying as had as she could to knock the bike over and couldn't.
Be sensible, riding the bike and parking it is one thing. Lifting it with proper tie downs the proper way is another.
The chock is not "cheap" as associated with harbor freight
I can understand the grip tape, but I don't understand installing it thar far front. You'll be installing the chock in the center front and the front wheel won't be going to the right or left of the chock.
Well with a supersport, my R1 was long. I also needed room in the rear for my rearstand. I dont use straps. Just a chock and a rearstand in the back. The chock was terrible and would not keep the bike straight unless i used a rear stand.
Why don't you jack the ramp up save your back .why are you bending when it lifts up is that not the while point of the ramp...
OK I see you worked it out.
If you had started from the bottom of the ramp going left to right with the tape you would have had enough to cover it all .also where the front wheel clamp your fitting you would not have needed to cover it . As you won't see it anyway . .
Good video it help others to do theres right .as iv just ordered my tape Cheers
Put a rubber block on the front corners of the lift.
I know this is an older video at this point but a way better upgrade is to use a wheel chock like the Condor Trailer chock or even the more recent one that HF has been selling. They have a capture piece at the front hat pinches the tire in and it is so stable. I've never needed straps or had a concern about the stability of the bike, doing anything. I can lift it from underneath with a lift jack and swap out parts on the rear and with no issue what so ever. I bought mine from a fellow that had already set it up but looking back I would have probably ended up doing the same thing because it works so well. This link is to the video of my lift, from the guy who sold it to me. ruclips.net/video/hvNgtP0zzbk/видео.html
Put stiff springs up front.
How is the R-6 ? Make ? Handling ?
Yamaha R6? The best 600cc ever made!
🤔🤔🤔...
Good video...!!!
Instead of grip-tape...
I would have simply aggressively "truck bed coated" it...
Great point!
New to your channel
The first time your bike falls of the table you will wish you would have bought a Handy Lift. The price of the Harbor Frieght lift and the damages to your bike could far exceed the price of a handy lift
Yep 100%. Next lift will be a black widow.
You could have just ran one strip of grip tape up the middle, no? 2/3 of that tape will never come in contact with anything.
I did it for tools and bolts. Easier to see and wouldnt slide around.
@@MotoViceOfficial ok sounds good 👍. Keep up the good work. Thanks for the video.
Maybe you should have wiped it down with alcohol before you install the grip tape?
So yu bought a lift just to park on, it's made to work on bikes it's fine to put the bike on it every night, but now it's useless for actual work on the bike and hard on tools?
fit some wooden blocks to the front of the lift.
More grip tape! More cowbell!
Hahaha after looking back yes i didnt need all the grip tape but i didnt want bolts/screws rolling easily on the metal surface. Black also helps me see if i dropped something easier.
move the chock back 6"
The other HF wheel chock is 100% better
You should not have put the chock so far towards the front. Also, you have an expensive bike on the lift, yet cheap out on the chock to hold the bike. Makes no sense to me. Buy a real chock and it will do what you want it to do....keep your motorcycle upright and safe.
Bruh. Why didn't you just roll it out length wise all rolls. Lmao
Slide it back some to far forward
Move the chock back. Once lift is up it won't have all the weight over the front. Bike should still be strapped down. Chocks aren't meant as soul holder. You seem kinda green to me.
Thank you for the comment.
Your ineptitude makes me wanna let you work on your kids tricycles !
Thanks man!
No need for that guy learning we all do thanks for video man .-( i just brought sim bike lift.
I'm not sure about this gentleman. He thinks this is a scissor lift
Coulda been a 5-minute video.
Watching you put grip tape on...........
The chock is to far forward !
Thank you. I found a solution!
man id add the center piece. bet your bike is embarassed , id beup all night worrying about how it looks lol motorcycles have feeling too ya know.probably thinks you dont love her .
ffs loose the 5h1ty music !
Bruh. Why didn't you just roll it out length wise all rolls. Lmao