just a note for anyone considering this -- once you bypass the BMS (on discharge only..NEVER bypass the BMS for charging) you give up all sorts of protection features like under-voltage protection, short-circuit protection, and over-current protection. I have personally had the BMS save my battery pack in all three scenarios at one time or another. I think the biggest risk is pushing the cells past their limit. I don't know what the maximum discharge rating is for these 21700 cells - maybe 3C(?) continuous and 5C peak(?) - that means if you exceed 200A on discharge and/or run high current for too long, you risk damaging the cells or even one of the cells overheating and going into thermal runaway (aka fire). You will typically know the max current your controller is capable of and if that's within the limits of the pack, you're fine. Controllers also tend to have some low-voltage cut-off so that might help you there. If you're using a good fuse or circuit-breaker, that will hopefully cover you in the case of a short. There is a risk/reward tradeoff here. Bypassing the BMS is a good idea when the BMS limits the performance of the battery pack (lets say battery pack can safely run 200A but only using a 50A BMS -- this is a good case for bypassing or perhaps swapping for different BMS entirely) but in cases where the performance of BMS is very close to what the pack is capable of, bypassing the BMS takes on a good deal of risk with little reward. Conversely, if you've bypassed your 50A BMS to unlock all 200A of POWER but your controller is only capable of 45A..bypassing the BMS will give you exactly zero increase in performance. I'm not saying don't do it, but people should understand that the cost/benefit varies with every system.
Yeeeaahh you said EVERYTHING mate… I’m with you 100%!! I’m actually going to pin you comment so it shows up first here. The older 32.5Ah Surron batteries are safely running 8.5kW (originally 6kW peak). The Talaria battery which is 21700 and 38Ah we run at 9.5-10kW. We need to test this pack and properly to see how it behaves at 10kW but everything indicates that it’s going to be good (possibly 10.5-11kW I’m guessing) but we wouldn’t be pushing our luck that far on a bypass setup.
Nice, it was time for Surron to start making a newer bigger battery, 40Ah is bigger than the Talaria! Thanks for all that priceless info, you always make things look so simple and easy 😊
YEEEEEEAAAHHH I remember your name always present here in the comments… wow nearly 6 years… I’ve got lots of recorded videos that I’ll be uploading this next few weeks now that it’s Christmas holidays and I have some time off work… so yeah im back… but RUclips algorithm hasn’t realised that yet and I only get extremely low exposure now (until one of the videos go boom and things to back to normal 😂) Thanks mate… sooo much POWEEEEERRR ohh yeahh
Next video… talking about the KO motor… how much extra power you notice after upgrading and what happens when you get crank it up to 20kW (possible fire melting the stock bike battery wiring at 130kmh) Some other stuff too
Yeah, exactly, this was actually the inicial idea… we started recording but had to stop and start again many times to work out if this same bypass lead that works for the older batteries could even fit inside this new battery. The video around 17 minutes and still going for another 2-3 minutes… waaaay too long (and really boring) lots of changes of mind along so editing and cropping parts people wouldn’t understand anything… it was just a lot easier to make a new fresh single take video and get this uploaded ASAP so people already with this new 40Ah can follow some instructions. 😅
Hey mate love the videos and Energy you give out Would you happen to have a diy sur ron battery making video if not fully understand Keep up the sick work very underrated channel
What cells is this battery pack using? Glad to see they’ve went to 21700. The “38ah” 18650 pack was supposedly using the Samsung 35E which is higher capacity than the Panasonic PF, but lower continues discharge at 8A.
Hi. Thanks for the info about disconnect the BMS. And what happening if you disconnect the smaller connectors first, (like balancers, etc.) and after that disconnecting the main negative wire? I'm a BMW technician and BMW uses battery management systems too, but sometimes same thing happening with the BMS what you mentioned, if you disconnect some of the main wires first from the battery. But if you disconnect the BMS's sensors and smaller electronics first, then nothing wrong happening. Most electronics die if you make sparks with the battery terminals when you put back the terminals to the battery. Because your hand shaking and not make the connection immediately.
Yeah, lots of new smart BMS have an internal firmware running datalog and many times they just don’t come back even if perfectly disconnecting and connecting as per manufacturer’s instructions… I have access to all that info and it still doesn’t work in lots of cases (maybe 1/3) and people get super frustrated stuck with a battery that can’t be charged and they can’t get that BMS anywhere… Basically, the balancing wires should be disconnected first, must start from the most positive then move to the second tap disconnecting the most negative connector. Most BMS electronics are powered up from the balancing connector BUT some BMS depending the way things are wired up internally inside the pcb they can be connected to the battery positive and things can go weird when disconnecting the balancing wires first. Yeah BMS science is pretty weird… I worked for quite a few BMS manufacturers including 2 years at Batrium.com … even high voltage 400-800v BMS that are worth $2-5k share the same dramas… unfortunately… but they work well if installed and not disturbed 😂
Seeing if you could help me I have a two 2024 surron light bee x and both chargers are doing the same thing won’t charge I got it to work one time by holding for 10-14sec then this time went back to what it was doing and not charging!! What else can I do or to diagnose what’s wrong with them I’ve only had them for two months !
So the new 2023 bikes have either 38ah or 40ah batteries? Also, if you were to buy a new bike and you had the choice, would you recommend the new 38ah or 40ah battery over the older 34ah one and why?
Did the bypass - now my battery is slightly warm on the top - any idea guys? Been keeping it outside for more than 24 hours now, still warm. are the cells balancing or is it pre-fire condition?? Thanks
Genuine 40Ah? Or labelled just try beat the competition? I’d be hugely wary of pushing unknown cells although sure are building up the power draw in steps until view the temperature reach max on any single cell? Obviously summer and winter performance could vary more opportunity cool the pack thanks lower ambient temperature. Look forward to more videos on this subject. 😎
I will get my updated Surron (2023v2 with the new 40Ah Battery and electric throttle) in 1 week. I would like to know how the battery is build. First of all which 21700 Cells are used? How is it build? 60V means 16s, but 40Ah could be 8p if 5Ah cells or 10p if 4Ah cells. Does anyone have these informations? With the number of parallel cells and the discharge current of the cells used we can calculate the Current and Power it can deliver.
@@stevenwalker1375 stock bike does 100 amps and rhe cells are easily capable of 250 lol, only limiting factor is the wires and how long they can do that current for without melting the shit out of them
just a note for anyone considering this -- once you bypass the BMS (on discharge only..NEVER bypass the BMS for charging) you give up all sorts of protection features like under-voltage protection, short-circuit protection, and over-current protection. I have personally had the BMS save my battery pack in all three scenarios at one time or another. I think the biggest risk is pushing the cells past their limit. I don't know what the maximum discharge rating is for these 21700 cells - maybe 3C(?) continuous and 5C peak(?) - that means if you exceed 200A on discharge and/or run high current for too long, you risk damaging the cells or even one of the cells overheating and going into thermal runaway (aka fire). You will typically know the max current your controller is capable of and if that's within the limits of the pack, you're fine. Controllers also tend to have some low-voltage cut-off so that might help you there. If you're using a good fuse or circuit-breaker, that will hopefully cover you in the case of a short. There is a risk/reward tradeoff here. Bypassing the BMS is a good idea when the BMS limits the performance of the battery pack (lets say battery pack can safely run 200A but only using a 50A BMS -- this is a good case for bypassing or perhaps swapping for different BMS entirely) but in cases where the performance of BMS is very close to what the pack is capable of, bypassing the BMS takes on a good deal of risk with little reward. Conversely, if you've bypassed your 50A BMS to unlock all 200A of POWER but your controller is only capable of 45A..bypassing the BMS will give you exactly zero increase in performance. I'm not saying don't do it, but people should understand that the cost/benefit varies with every system.
Yeeeaahh you said EVERYTHING mate… I’m with you 100%!! I’m actually going to pin you comment so it shows up first here. The older 32.5Ah Surron batteries are safely running 8.5kW (originally 6kW peak). The Talaria battery which is 21700 and 38Ah we run at 9.5-10kW. We need to test this pack and properly to see how it behaves at 10kW but everything indicates that it’s going to be good (possibly 10.5-11kW I’m guessing) but we wouldn’t be pushing our luck that far on a bypass setup.
Thank you, Bruno!! You guys at ebmx are on the cutting edge with this stuff! keep the awesome builds coming
@@BrunoPOWEEERcan you get a specific number that it’s safe at want to put in my own bms
I dont understand but yes
english please
Nice, it was time for Surron to start making a newer bigger battery, 40Ah is bigger than the Talaria!
Thanks for all that priceless info, you always make things look so simple and easy 😊
More power , watching your videos since 2017 good to see you back the last couple weeks.
YEEEEEEAAAHHH I remember your name always present here in the comments… wow nearly 6 years… I’ve got lots of recorded videos that I’ll be uploading this next few weeks now that it’s Christmas holidays and I have some time off work… so yeah im back… but RUclips algorithm hasn’t realised that yet and I only get extremely low exposure now (until one of the videos go boom and things to back to normal 😂)
Thanks mate… sooo much POWEEEEERRR ohh yeahh
Next video… talking about the KO motor… how much extra power you notice after upgrading and what happens when you get crank it up to 20kW (possible fire melting the stock bike battery wiring at 130kmh)
Some other stuff too
Would be nice if we got a full visual tutorial for this lol but I appreciate you saying how you did it 👍☺️
Yeah, exactly, this was actually the inicial idea… we started recording but had to stop and start again many times to work out if this same bypass lead that works for the older batteries could even fit inside this new battery.
The video around 17 minutes and still going for another 2-3 minutes… waaaay too long (and really boring) lots of changes of mind along so editing and cropping parts people wouldn’t understand anything… it was just a lot easier to make a new fresh single take video and get this uploaded ASAP so people already with this new 40Ah can follow some instructions. 😅
I got a 2023 sur Ron man this and an upgraded controller might be everything I need
New 40Ah Surron battery? I remember you guys saying that the Talaria battery was capable of 10kW and this is slightly more capacity so 10.5 or 11kW?
Would that be after a bypass (for the surron)
Hey mate love the videos and Energy you give out
Would you happen to have a diy sur ron battery making video if not fully understand
Keep up the sick work very underrated channel
What cells is this battery pack using? Glad to see they’ve went to 21700. The “38ah” 18650 pack was supposedly using the Samsung 35E which is higher capacity than the Panasonic PF, but lower continues discharge at 8A.
Hi. Thanks for the info about disconnect the BMS.
And what happening if you disconnect the smaller connectors first, (like balancers, etc.) and after that disconnecting the main negative wire? I'm a BMW technician and BMW uses battery management systems too, but sometimes same thing happening with the BMS what you mentioned, if you disconnect some of the main wires first from the battery. But if you disconnect the BMS's sensors and smaller electronics first, then nothing wrong happening. Most electronics die if you make sparks with the battery terminals when you put back the terminals to the battery. Because your hand shaking and not make the connection immediately.
Yeah, lots of new smart BMS have an internal firmware running datalog and many times they just don’t come back even if perfectly disconnecting and connecting as per manufacturer’s instructions… I have access to all that info and it still doesn’t work in lots of cases (maybe 1/3) and people get super frustrated stuck with a battery that can’t be charged and they can’t get that BMS anywhere…
Basically, the balancing wires should be disconnected first, must start from the most positive then move to the second tap disconnecting the most negative connector. Most BMS electronics are powered up from the balancing connector BUT some BMS depending the way things are wired up internally inside the pcb they can be connected to the battery positive and things can go weird when disconnecting the balancing wires first.
Yeah BMS science is pretty weird… I worked for quite a few BMS manufacturers including 2 years at Batrium.com … even high voltage 400-800v BMS that are worth $2-5k share the same dramas… unfortunately… but they work well if installed and not disturbed 😂
Why did you take down the ultra bee bypass video? Can you please repost or send it to me directly?
looking for it too, did you get it?
Seeing if you could help me I have a two 2024 surron light bee x and both chargers are doing the same thing won’t charge I got it to work one time by holding for 10-14sec then this time went back to what it was doing and not charging!! What else can I do or to diagnose what’s wrong with them I’ve only had them for two months !
just bypassed my 40 ah and installed a qs8 connector while i had it apart what is the max phase amps i can run
Hey guys! Any idea if this battery can handle 9kw safely? Also, what should i be setting my min and max voltage to? Thanks in advance!
anyone know which 21700 cells they are using and if the BMS has the same current rating? I missed if that was covered.
Came here for same thing
What kw can I run on same battery bypassed 10kw?
So the new 2023 bikes have either 38ah or 40ah batteries? Also, if you were to buy a new bike and you had the choice, would you recommend the new 38ah or 40ah battery over the older 34ah one and why?
Where did you the your surrron because I have never seen a 40 AH battery
Did the bypass - now my battery is slightly warm on the top - any idea guys? Been keeping it outside for more than 24 hours now, still warm. are the cells balancing or is it pre-fire condition?? Thanks
Genuine 40Ah? Or labelled just try beat the competition? I’d be hugely wary of pushing unknown cells although sure are building up the power draw in steps until view the temperature reach max on any single cell? Obviously summer and winter performance could vary more opportunity cool the pack thanks lower ambient temperature. Look forward to more videos on this subject. 😎
I have a 40ah sur ron I’ll tell you soon
They are different to the 38ah cells tho
does the Break-Code still work to unlock in the 40ah model? On my 38 it works but not on the 40ah
what is break code ? i cut the wire to unlock speed
I will get my updated Surron (2023v2 with the new 40Ah Battery and electric throttle) in 1 week.
I would like to know how the battery is build.
First of all which 21700 Cells are used?
How is it build?
60V means 16s, but 40Ah could be 8p if 5Ah cells or 10p if 4Ah cells.
Does anyone have these informations?
With the number of parallel cells and the discharge current of the cells used we can calculate the Current and Power it can deliver.
40ah ? I thot they said 38? feeling like I got ripped off now buying a surron in 2021 with a 32ah
What’s safe amps to push with bypassed battery 110a or can I push 120a?
Bases on cell specs you should be able to do around 250 amps for less than 10 seconds or for more continuous power around 150 amps
@@itzpogboy 250 Amps on a battery that does 90amp standard it’s only a bypass kit no way will it do 250
@@stevenwalker1375 stock bike does 100 amps and rhe cells are easily capable of 250 lol, only limiting factor is the wires and how long they can do that current for without melting the shit out of them
@@itzpogboy funny that when mine cut out at 95amps before the
how name of new cell ?
They should use lifepo4 2000cycles
What that bypass does?
U need to do it front the start step by step
you should have shown us the while doing it😢 can’t see anything
Bruno, you’ve got ADHD!! 😅😊
How to set your bike on fire.
Hopefully it’s better constructed and more waterproof and than those POS EBMX batteries .
@BrunoPOWEEER. is my prize some wood off cuts ?
most others worse