2006-2012 Ford Fusion Lower Control Arm Removal Without Dropping Subframe!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 12 ноя 2024
- Moog is the only aftermarket I trust for Suspension and Driveline:
I used the R Series linked below (check fitment guide)
Front Lower Arms-
www.amazon.com/...
Drivers Front Rearward Arm-
www.amazon.com/...
Passenger Front Rearward Arm-
www.amazon.com/...
Help the Tour along by donating below:
GoFundMe Here- www.gofundme.co...
Paypal Donations Here- www.paypal.com...
Tour supporters include:
AJ1E Superior Solutions-
www.fordservobo...
Hot Shot's Secret-
www.hotshotsecr...
Car Part Kings-
www.carpartking...
Milwaukee Tools-
www.milwaukeeto...
In this video we tackle lower control arms on a 2007 Ford Fusion with a few tips along the way for removing them. 
Авто/Мото
Worked just as you said it would. Thank you sir!
Used to having hydraulic lifts to work on cars, I was in for a shock after I retired...dirt, concrete and asphalt are hard on the knees and the back. I accidentally found that the benefits of large card-board boxes (still using the same box my compressor came in two years ago) have made many a shade-tree repair much more bearable. Save your knees. Good luck.
mds19238 I have something very similar we used to use cardboard creepers even at the dealership real nice to have.
Got the popcorn ready bring on those videos
My wife had a 2013 ford fusion with 38,000 miles on it and both lower control arms were wore completely out to the point it would make metal on metal contact clanking sound every time you hit the brakes or went over a bump. We took it to the Ford dealership where we bought it and they said it was perfectly normal for the front suspension to wear completely out in less than 40k miles. They said they would fix it for $1000, we just traded it in at another Ford dealership because we had multiple other problems since it was new. I still love your videos though!
bash5995 Considering the age of your car and the mileage The dealership did the wrong thing with you and consequently lost a customer. I had some issues with my 2010 Malibu after the warranty expired with parts that should not have been issues. My dealership went to bat for me with GM and twice the issues were corrected at a cost of $200 to me and a retail repair invoice cost of $600 and $900 respectively. I think that was very fair and when the time comes to buy I will go back if its a Chevy that I want.
I have a 2010 with all original suspension components and 306k I am about to do this job on.. never had a single issue with any of our fusions wearing this stuff out until now I can’t. Complain
Great video. The tip on the sub frame for the rear lower arm will definitely come in handy. I'm fighting those lower ball joints, though. It's killing me .. .
Thanks man saved lot of headache went on to changing knuckle sleeve stuck on lower ball joint couldnt get that of after breaking 3 tools decided just to change whole arms front one opened easily back one they said need to drop frame didnt wanna do that
The forked shock reminds me of the 95 thunderbird suspension I redid. Most of the bolts were frozen in the sleeves. I couldn't locate a new shock bolt (wasn't sure about the size) so I suffered almost an entire day getting it out in one piece. Since there is a rubber bushing you can't really cook it too much.
Driving a Dodge Ram to go fix Fords! Priceless!! LOL
That was a big nice garage to work in! Cant complain about that :)
You gotta get a foam pad for your knees to rest on, cause that concrete/asphalt gets old real quick.
I enjoy it actually something about it
Rather short. Was expecting a more in depth video of the repair process like you used to do.
Other than that, appreciate what you are doing.
cmarshall2211 This vehicle was such a nightmare we stopped filming it was that bad and time was ticking away. Other videos after this are more in depth I have a bunch uploading today.
Can't imagine the difficulties of filming in unfamiliar areas. Couple that with an unexpected difficult repair.
Hopefully you got a lot of thanks and a cold beer when you were done!
FordTechMakuloco - It would greatly appreciated if you could show some of the other work on this V6 Fusion. I'd like to see the valve covers gaskets done, if at all possible. If you could post more videos from this job it would be great!
+sailmate If it comes in I shall film it.
Do you travel to Wisconsin? Small college town.. I have a 2010 Ford Fusion that's making loud noise every time i turn the wheel or go over a bump. I'm scared to drive it now.
Where can I purchased the clamp or tool that your using to remove the control arm
im looking for the same tool????
FordTechMakuloco I will keep you and your family in my prayers what your doing for families across America is a true blessing I know with all the driving, hotels and working hard can be very exhausting ! Stay strong God bless you and your family. .......
Which truck you find better , the ram or the F150? ,, in terms of power reliability etc etc ?
Good tip to this day!
I could not for the life of me get the subframe to move enough, but I did manage to get the screw out, im just wondering how I get it back in. Also had a ceased ball joint that I hope a shop can press out. Its amazing how you try to fix one thing only to have to destory alot of things in the process.
Ended up taking the steering off, but still didn't lower even with prying
It appears the sub frame is somehow welded or rusted to the frame as the drivers side there is space between the frame and subframe, but the passenger side there is no space. The bushing moves when I pry it, but not that far.
Can’t get my subframe to move either
What convinced you RAM was the right truck for your road trip?
You drive a Dodge truck instead of a Ford F1 50?
Yes please keep up lol
FordTechMakuloco,
Aren't the bolts torque to yield from the control arms to the subframe?
That bolt your loosing on the control arm on the frame broke out of mines with pieces of the frame is there anything I can do to fix it besides changing the the sub frame?
How do you remove the upper bolt of the lower rear control arm. I did remove the nut with the washer that and the bolt has two grooves . I tried to wrench it out but it didn’t move. I wasn’t sure if you just hit it from the back and comes out or unbolt it. I’m talking about a 2006 mercury Milan
Awesome as always!
Well I see that tool didn't do very good at keeping that sleeve in like you said it was supposed to do.
Yeah sometimes they get stuck big time, it's always a fight.
@@FordTechMakuloco oh yeah, I just fought one awhile back that's why I was watching to see how that tool worked out. I just hate when I get them in the air and see they're from up North. Dam rust buckets !!!
Do you recommend the MOOG parts? On the internet there are many critics concerning the low quality and I personally broke a inner tie rod moog with just 25 thousand miles .... I need to change the upper control arm a Ford Fusion 2008
and I am seeing which brand to use .....
Did you record how you got the timing off??
Great Vids man! Keep it up!!!
I have a 2012 Fusion.. what is the process for removing the lower forward arm?
DIY Uly drop the frame
Love the videos keepem coming !!! I will keep my 05 Explorer as your videos continue!!!!!!
Did you use jack under the subframe or not? I am doing this job soon on my mazda 6 gg/gy. Eveybody says to lower the subframe and i am very happy that i found your video. Seems that i can save a little time with this shortcut! Thanks!
And did you disconnect the steering column from the steering rack? Thanks
I notice at 5:09 you show a photo of a Duratech V6 with the timing chain cover off. I am trying to remove the front cylinder head on mine... preferably without dropping the engine. Can this be done? And how did you get the timing chain cover off without removing the engine?
+Michael Perkins This is a very bog job and should be attempted without full instructions from a chiltons manual or such. The heads can come off without pulling the engine.
I am planning on pulling the half shafts and the rear drive shaft (AWD) and the jacking up the engine in the car to get to the timing chain cover. It appears that this is how you did it.
+FordTechMakuloco I have a chiltons manual and it is tell me to drop the subframe and engine. however, there are no instructions to pulling the heads and timing chain cover without dropping the engine.
That looks a lot easier than a 2005 Toyota Camry! Just about 4-5 hours per side on a Toyota. You need to pull motor mount and raise engine on a Toyota to get to the bolts.
I wish you had chose a Ford over the Fiat G.M. truck. :(
Good job,if you own a ford to those who have one,you better learn mechanics,coz its gonna be a costly one,
great job !
Does the lower center arm rearward bolt come out easy on the V6 or do you have to lift the engine just like the 4Cyl?
Great tip. Very informative..
Great Job!
I am following your instructions but the subframe is not dropping more than 1/4" or so.
Any ideas?
It will only drop a 1/4" or so you need to pry it down with a prybar just enough to clear the bolt.
+FordTechMakuloco I will give it a shot. Thanks!
+FordTechMakuloco That worked! Thank you!
Disconnecting the lower steering shaft is very easy. Not totally necessary, however. Remember to keep the steering wheel in place while disconnected. And, the steering shaft will not release until the bolt is fully REMOVED.
In 5:10 what work do you do?
Hey, quick question. I'm having trouble getting the rear lower control arm nut bolt out. It is basically seized into the control arm. What do you recommend in getting the bolt to come loose? Basically soaked it in pb blaster, tried an impact gun & breaker bar. Anything else?
heat
Ford seems to use some questionable manufacturing techniques on most of their cars except the F-150... I just bought a 2014 F150 and I hope I don't have to deal with some of these short-cut designs... Thanks for sharing
Mark S good luck with your F150 i have a 2012 one and the A/C just sucks doesnt cool the crew cab off FORD says its normal remember the saying "quality is job one" not any more. now its"have you drain one lately" I really dont want to drive one now. . With the paint falling off my 2009 Taurus im bout done with Ford
Couldn't wait for Honda's pickup.. It's still another year out..
plowtruckdriver Really. As my AC cools down to 46 degrees and considering it's R134a I'll take it. As the only other AC I seen that blows colder is a Honda. They will spit ice cubes out the vent. Being that it's a conversion van, E-150 it can cool it down in five minutes.
Just don't ever buy a black vehicle and expect it to stay cool in traffic. It's never going to happen.
Did you ever wonder why this whole setup is so complicated? Why not just have a simple 1 piece unit top and bottom.? I have done this 3 times to my fusion.
Yes yes and yes!
is it free i have the same car need both fixed upstate ny
I'm desperately needing help with my 06 ford fusion. I have a code P0757. I can't pay anybody to do the job now, I watched your video on the Focus changing the Solenoid A. My problem seems to be on B. Please any help please
you are smart man
amjad amj Thanks! I am smart enough.
I watch your videos and am turned off by Ford more and more. My Hyundai Elantra is way more straightforward to do anything on than Ford these days... It's two bolts (not hitting subframes) and a balljoint like it should be
SilentServiceCode You have to remember no other Ford is like this and this is a Mazda design which the Fusion is heavily based off of.
Moog parts are bad review......... low quality parts.....
A dodge....