Find Your Perfect Fence System: A Guide To Choosing The Right One For You
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- You don't necessarily need to just install the same fence type as your neighbours.
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I'm an absolute advocate for the duraposts, I used prefabbed fence panels and lots of screws so no risk of banging in wind. They flex slightly in the wind but are totally solid. Nice and light and looks great - I've got Anthracite grey too and they are an almost exactly match to the Cuprinol Shades Urban slate paint. Most been in for 3 years now and no signs of corrosion. Added bonus is magnetic spirit levels stick to the post so you're hands free on levelling! Price seems very variable across suppliers so worth shopping around. I've used timber for corners with the duraposts U channel screwed onto it.
I've used self adhesive roof flashing for years in the same way with a little heat from the heat gun it really sticks to the post, especially with a bit of black jack, much better than the post wrap
I’ve gone over to using wooden posts in steel post sockets. There’s several different makes and types; ground spikes, concrete-in and bolt down ones. They keep the post out of the ground and, so far, I’ve had very good results. Plus, they also have the advantage that, when the post does need replacing, it can just be swapped out.
Interesting, I was about to order the concrete post option for aboit 8 panels but haven't priced them up yet.
I'll look into the post socket option cheers
Even better if you can save the old fence and posts, with just the addition of a few repair spikes. My timber fence is now at least 40 years old, in a really exposed location in the north of Scotland. The repair spikes fit into the existing concrete, hammered into where the rotten remains of the post is. The now shortened post then hammers into the repair spike and all good again!
How long do metal spikes last in the ground and is it a stable fence in the wind if you have 1.8m of feather edge board above ground level with a post held in a box clamped with 2 bolts?@rb9580
Funnily enough, we were in Wickes the other day and saw the Durapost. My other half said, 'That looks nice and won't rot.' I couldn't think of any downside other than the price - but then I'd rather pay once rather than have the hassle of changing wooden posts every few years. Really looking forward to the installation video as I would be worried about making sure the posts are lined up square (plumb or whatever). Always love your sense of humour 🙂and the experiments show how you think everything through.
I used to stock durapost in my previous job role. Took some winning over with people but once they had it they were sold. Check out their whole system of gravel boards and slot in panels.
I used Durapost 2 years ago when replacing a very rotten fence. We've been very happy with them, and have just used it again when replacing another fence. I used their anthracite composite gravel boards and Jackson hit&miss fence panels and it looks very smart and is solid.
As always an interesting video, it made me think of one of the ways we used to use to preserve wooden posts. One of them was to burn the section that would be below the ground level. Just enough to seal the surface,so it would not soak up moisture. A blowlamp was usually good enough to do it, if it was on show I would shield the area i didn't want to see scorched with a piece of metal or similar while i did it. A cheap way and environmentally friendly. Looking forward to seeing the next video.
I thought exactly the same thing "burn the section that would be below the ground level" I believe this would be the best way.
Simply first class content, humor and production quality. To me you're a mate I've just never met. 😎
Just paint your concrete posts and gravel boards with the ‘Ronseal’-type paint you use on the fence… blends them in, they look just like the wood from a few feet away, and the finish lasts just as long as the paint on the fence. So repaint the fence, repaint the posts etc. Looks great!
Yea I do same. U can just spray the whole thing quick an it hides the horrible concrete
@@R1chardH The concrete doesn't bother me. What bothers me is having to replace posts every few years. Painting the concrete posts is a nice idea too.
I’ve found timber posts with Metpost metal shoes tend to outlast other timber post options as the Metpost holds the base of the timber post above the ground - easier and quicker to install as no post hole to dig, just drive in the metpost.
Thanks Stuart, I plan to replace my fencing next year and this has helped enormously to help me decide. I won’t be putting it up, that’s a job for someone a lot younger than me!
I've got a long fence with those concrete posts. When i sprayed the fence panels with whatever the stuff was called i sprayed the concrete posts too. Now everything is a dark oak and the concrete posts look a million times nicer.
I was thinking of doing the same, but was unsure it would stick or last, good to hear it goes on OK at least. Dark oak here too.
When my fence blew down I went for galvanised metal spike type post holders to support the new wooden posts above ground level.
The posts won't necessarily last forever but at least they're much easier to replace. I also increased the number of posts and number of stretchers to improve strength. Possible since the fence no longer uses any panels but is made from boards.
Can’t beat a Sunday morning video Stuart. Gets you in the mood for doing a bit of diy round the house
One of the fences we have here has treated wooden posts that are fixed to a concrete foundation. Metal brackets were poured in concrete. That must be around 25 yrs old now. But yes wooden posts directly in the ground can have some durability problems. Those metal posts looks great.
2 years ago I replaced 30 meters of rotten fence with the same anthracite duraposts. After research, went for their composite gravel boards so these will never rot. The fence was then easily made using feather edge boards and traditional timber rails. Effectively constructing my own panels is way better and stronger than buying fence panels. Just don’t forget to add an angled top rail for the rain and do use the durapost post caps. The end result is rock solid and looks stunning. All our neighbours commented how great it looks with the natural timber split up with the sleek metal posts.
I did chuckle when you said “what”
I've found that within a relatively short period, the Postsaver becomes baggy above ground level and rain water accumulates between the inside of the Postsaver and the post, accelerating the rot. It's too late for me - save yourselves!
Concrete Spurs are the best option .. cheap and last forever .. if you need to replace the timber you just bolt new into the spurs off the ground and they no loger rot
Good info thanks.
My experience with bitumen in fencing is different to roofing. With felt and timber it works well.
I tried using bitumen paint on a planter I made. It trapped in the pressure treatment, that tries to escape over time and bitumen doesn’t breath, bubbled cracked and flaked. On what I witnessed I’d advise anyone to avoid bitumen products especially paint.
I’ve seen it painted onto bearers for composite decking, wears off over time. It doesn’t penetrate the timber as the already treated woods chemicals reject it. If you look through the gaps of decking you can see it wear off. (That tape you get works well)
Concrete to top of post don’t backfill soil and haunch ant ground level. Go to pub and worry little for 15yrs is my advice. Each to own! Cheers 😊
Timely video. I'm building a fence with posts that are going to be very hard to replace in future as a new raised deck on one side and a raised patio on the other. Durapost looks like the winner.
Great vid! I've concrete posts from 1960 in the garden, twice the size of modern concrete posts, and still rock solid, moved one and hang a hammock off. Not sure those steel posts would last as long, but longer than wooden. Have concrete with wooden fitted fencing round the garden - looks great, v happy, but suburban/urban area.
After replacing two wooden fences in 38 years (& patching them up in between with repair spikes) I finally bit the bullet went for concrete posts & gravel boards with low wind resistance Hit & Miss fences panels. All installed by a local landscaping guy who did a great job. Looks great, will outlast me &, as you said, if the panels do need replacing it's just an easy slide out / in job. I was not aware of the Steel post option so I'm interested to see how you get on installing it & what it looks like in-situ.
Used durapost a few years to erect high trellis, just off my boundary fence, to obscure an eyesore extension by the neighbours. Works great. Very easy to concrete into the ground. Worth shopping around. I secured mine more cheaply from a fencing company local to me.
I have used Durapost at the back of my property on a fairly long run 13 x panels 7 ft in height. They have only been in for approx 12 months but so far so good no issues yet.
I appreciated the intro and anticipating the post production effects. Nice.
As an editor for a lot of corporate video I must say your programme making is excellent. I always watch even if the subject doesn’t excite me because I know I’ll be entertained.
Yep I agree totally. Stu's videos are easily as good production & content-wise as anything Tommy used to do on BBC. Nice one Stu, keep 'em coming 👍👍👍👍
@@martinwalton2850 Post production: ba-dum-pah-tish.
@@owensparks5013 oh I missed that one! Thanks for setting me straight…
@@martinwalton2850
Not 'straight'.....'plumb' 😉
Thanks Stuart, as always both informative and entertaining ! I managed to keep the poor quality timber fence that the builders left us with for about 15 years with a few replacement posts and repair spurs, largely because we have a hedge adjacent to it and that takes some of the wind load of the fence ! When it got to the point of no return I and to bite the bullet and get some help in as I'd just had a hernia repair and the perimeter of our garden required 40 panels it came in at about £100 per section fitted ( about six years ago ) luckily we were "only" responsible for 24 of the panels ! I had seen the dura-post recently and thought it looked a good system, my only concern would be the longevity of the powder coating, but I hope it proves to be good for you !
I live in a coastal area and have built two fences using Durapost. Installed about 1.8m apart. Used temp stays and used some postcrete to hold in position and then backfilled with standard concrete. Fitted three angle rails using s/s pan head screws. Used vertical open boards and with one board covering the actual post. Built during lockdown and is as good as new. Easy to erect single handed and the finished fence is narrow as the angle rails fit inside the channels. I have also used their gate posts which are also very good. I am confident these will last a long time. Manufacturer has tested the posts in 70mph winds. The hardest part was digging the holes in very hard stoney ground.
We've always secure posts by cementing a metal u-shaped foot to the ground, and then bolt the wooden post to that. The wood is is then never in the ground, but it's also really easy to replace, since you never have to dig the hole back up. And it's really easy to get things level, since you can just compare all metal feets before even putting the posts up. You should give that a try.
I like this idea but how secure is the post in a u shaped metal bracket with two bolts drilled through the post horizontally and 1.8m tall fence taking the wind above?
@handle1196 we built an entire patio like that with some posts well over 3m and it's been going strong for about 10 years. Depends on the amount of poles I guess. Also, some of them were secured to bedrock.
@neatkefe can you have a gravel board with this method or is the bottom raised.
I had/have exactly the same issues with my wooden posts….generally lasting 10 years before rots causes the failure… I’ve now had to replace 8 posts out of 60 where the wind has toppled the fence, highly likely that the rest are in a similar state but haven’t “shown” the failure as they are not so exposed to wind. I look forward to seeing the metal installation, it might just inspire me to replace….love the videos, great to see that you’re 12 stone as I’m the same shape and that means I am too…😂
I use 600mm galvanised spikes for 100 mm wooded fence posts and works a treat. I have a raised 2m high decking mounted on raised galvanised posted on concrete and they are over 20 years old and still strong no sign of rotting still !
Built some of your shelves the weekend, they have turned out great!
Hi Stuart, I worked for a builders merchant about 29 years ago. Whilst there they started selling recycled plastic post very similar to the slotted concrete posts. They were a dark grey, about the same weight as a timber post and a price in between timber and concrete. I also remember that you could use ordinary wood screws with them. I have no idea if they are still available or not.
Nice solution - the problem is, the Bitumen will harden and when the wood cracks, so will it. May I suggest using a product called Isoflex Liquid Rubber. It's a roofing product that's impermeable to water, hard wearing and stays flexible. You can literally just paint it on the section you want to protect.
Great tip Bob, cheers.
Could you use the same product on a retaining wall to block moisture ingress?
@@figrollin Yes. Though the manufacturer doesn't specifically state either use for their product it does work in both cases (Wood Protector/Damp Proof Course). Additionally - this material is permeable to air - that is, it allows the building to 'breath'. Note that you should apply it to the thickness that they recommend for Flat roofs. Tip: The product, when purchased, is rather 'thick' - so place it into a bucket containing Hot Water (after removing the lid!) so that it warms up and then Stir thoroughly. Leaving it in a Airing Cupboard for a couple of days, then stirring prior to application works too.
@@Bob.Jenkins Thank you for your thorough advice!
Many years ago I had an allotment and the old boys down there had a good stock of old style creosote and they swore by leaving posts sat in a barrel of creosote for several days. They seemed to last but came with all the drawbacks of creosote.
I guess nothing lasts forever but the longevity of the steel would concern me but I guess the key is the quality of the powder coating.
I have used the concrete system which has worked very well for me so far but have looked at the plastic upvc fence systems which seem reasonable quality. Not sure if the UV will deteriorate those materials which goes back to none of them lasts forever.
12 12 1/2 stone 🤣 love it, Great content as usual, Thank you😁
Great video Stuart !!! best of luck with the build
I needed a new run of fencing a few months ago after the UK storms. The local "Fence Man" talked me into going the Durapost route and I'm really glad he did. It looks great and feels very solid. The fence-man's price for doing it (not DIY - I'm ashamed ☹) was so close to the price for concrete it was a no-brainer.
I would like to see the end result. Like the video, I was considering something similar for the little fence I have.
Concrete posts are way cheaper if you use local manufacturers, for me it was £14 for an 8ft intermediate and £12 for a 1ft gravel board. Then needing a 5ft panel (you can go as cheap or expensive as you like for that bit). Heavy yes, but when in the hole easy to position. Not sold on the metal posts lasting yet.
I used around 50 post saver sleeves for my fence. Good idea but a pain to install and if you get the flame or heat too close they form a hole and burn the sleeve. Also, if you use the roller it squeezes the bitumen out of the sleeve which you then roll all over your sleeve and post. Finally the exposed section of the sleeve does tend to begin to go brittle over time and opens away from the post, this then leaves a nice little pocket for water to sit in. However, 3 years in and the posts are still in there and show no signs of rot.. give them a go.
I appreciate this video Stuart, I was looking at the Dura post system earlier this year, I’m considering using these and the cant rail system with the feather edge boards. I hope you do a video on your fence, I will look forward to seeing it if you record your progress. Many thanks again. Steve.
I'm looking forward to seeing this fence come together, thanks for the video 👍
Thanks for doing the costings x
Last fence I did was old fencing took apart and planed down then coated in old engine oil and diesel .gets a coat every year when I change oil in the car...30 years old. Not rotten yet.
A treated post set in concrete where the concrete extends to 75mm above ground level works really well. I reckon it would outlast the powder coated steel any day. Look forward to seeing your review of this install in 2044 Stuart.
I've used the durapost system in my garden and they are fantastic,,, expensive but fantastic. Easy to cut with a grinder and last forever unlike wood which I've in the past replaced several times. 50mm roofing battens can fit in the gaps if needed to fill up the space. Also if you compare to wood posts that you might want to raise above the floor using galvanised post bass these alone are extremely expensive, so you'll save on those.
I am slowly replacing wooden posts with concrete ones, nothing beats them for durability and I don't need gravel boards. My fence don't have horizontal panels but vertical boards, so this reduces the cost too of this. I also painted my posts so they blend in nicely with the rest of the fence.
I look forward to see it finished!
A timber fence does not fail after ‘just a few years’. Posts start to go around 15 years. I’ve replaced a lot of my posts after longer than this, but the rest of the fence is still in really good condition.
Yes, I buried 3” cedar poles in the ground with just gravel supporting them. (No cement) I wanted to keep the dogs in the yard. I am on my third dog, 18 years, and some of the posts are just starting to fail. This is in Minnesota, USA. Hard winters, hard summers.
Love your videos! i watch every single one you post, even if its not something im planning on doing. Keep up the great vids!
Never knew such a thing existed. Thanks Stuart.
I can't wait for the installation video
I tend to bolt a 1200mm length of galvanised U channel to the side (sometimes both sides) of wooden posts before I install them - 600mm below and above ground. The theory being when the posts inevitably rot off at ground level - firstly they'll still be bolted to the 600mm above ground, so shouldn't instantly fall over, secondly when I come to replace them just unbolt the rotten post, cut a new one to length and bolt it back in its place. Should hopefully outlast me.
Well explained. Thank you. Another option might be to have a concrete pad, use a bolt down metpost or similar and still retain the wooden posts.
Locally there are concrete railway fence posts. I have no idea how old they are but the railway was closed in 1966.
I hate UK fencing. Back in the day if attached property most had “hit and miss” ranch style, neighbour paints his side red and it drips down your green side.
My experience with bitumen paint is especially on non fully dried pressure treated you’re trapping the chemical in. Believe me the bitumen fails, it cracks and bubbles. A fence post can lose about 2kg in weight if dried before installation. Timber can’t breath with bitumen. Concrete is porous, still best method to put post in concrete as is. I’ve 20 yr old posts, haunched at ground level.
Haunching is key. Of course you’ll get moisture but most backfill the last half foot with soil. You need to concrete till above ground level if possible. Dulux opaque oil based repels and breaths. 2 coats at ground level. Or just head to the pub and worry about it in 15yrs 😂👍🏻👍🏻
Good video.
For me timber fencing is better, concrete post and panel have no character. Harder to sort over time when they move.
I used the durapost 2years ago around 18m long fence Great product! So easy to use did it all on my own in 2 days. I got them for around £25 a post through ebay with there random discount codes
There is another alternative if you can find 'em... HDPE posts made from recycled milk bottles [ as example] they do come in brown colour but are as heavy as concrete. abt. 1.8 m. high. The local electricity board was experimenting with them for sub stations etc.
Loving my sunday mornings better now 😊
I have 350m of feather edge to install. I bought a Durapost to do a test run. Only concern is the amount of wood you have to screw into per rail. It may well be 50mm deep, but the screw hole is set dangerously close to the edge of the rail. I just can’t see it holding all that weight / not splitting. Keen to see how you get on .
Excellent Stuart, thank you 👍
I put my own fence up 17 years ago, and it's still standing , I painted my posts with bitumen paint about 5 times before going in the groud and mixed cement and put it round the bottom of the posts so the water runs off , never had a problem
I replaced my rotted and failing wooden fence posts with the galvanised DuraPost system, set in concrete footings. And I've been extremely satisfied.
My back garden can only be accessed through the house, and because its built into a hillside, it involves carrying materials up a flight of stairs. The lightness of the posts was an immediate benefit. These posts are incredibly strong, and easily handle any conceivable wind load the fence is likely to see. The DuraPost system also includes C-shaped sections which can be attached to a masonry wall. And the open section is designed to accept standard UK fence panels. You can dress up the tops with architectural caps.
The fence panels themselves may well fail in time. But repair will be a matter of simply sliding new panels into place. The posts have a 25 year guarantee against rust, but I really don't see them needing replacement in my lifetime. I suspect the next owners of my house will thank me for the decision I made.
Can't recommend these panels too much. I think you've made a great decision.
my house is build in 1975 and is build mostly from thick reinforced concrete and bricks. It also has concrete fences with chickenwire with hedges growing them. They all are still in good shape.
I’d still be inclined to wrap some bitumen sheet around the steel posts. The protective finish on the steel around ground level will in just a few years be abraded off by the gritty stuff and stones in the soil. The action of every rain, throws a little abrasive grit at ground and near to ground level surfaces. This wrap should also add a little protection against the clumsy wielding of gardening implements scratching them.
Such heat bonded powder coatings whilst very good compared to paint are never the less prone to damage and of coarse one can’t see at a glance whether they have be galvanized first!
Therefore, these *thin* light weight posts will rust through quickly if situated in areas where they a likely to get scuffed and where they are in danger of getting splashed with road salt, etc.
I think the first post using concrete seems heavy, but after that they just feel like lifting a normal weight I did a fence with a friend we must have used 30 + posts and gravel boards it took two days to do and still looks great 15 years later
Another great video, thanks Stuart 👍
Very informative as expected, BUT 12st your killing me 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣
In Australia for paling wooden fences there seems to be two camps of post securing. One says concrete it, the other says cement , soil and water does the trick. All the ones I have pulled down that are less than twenty years old in the ground have rotted at the post because concrete has made water sit within the environment of the post. The mixture mix foundations usually fall down only because the complete fence is falling apart. The snapped post always becomes a harder to remove post. Metal posts look good, but I am worried if you run slats between posts as you were showing that water will pool at each slat end. Now the rot problem not in the ground but in the pretty external of the fence.
Nice, I like it. However, I'd love to see some suitable holes in the bottom of the gravel boards to allow for hedgehogs, and more, easy passage to and from the property. Thanks for sharing, cheers 🍺
I like that you do Sunday morning videos
You can also get composite fence post material. Not sure if its any good. I like the durapost idea
Hi just wondering if you could do a video on making a sound proof box for a pressure washer or give some advice on the ventilation
Hi Stuart, did you include the cost of treating and wrapping the timber posts? I don't know how much extra that would add but it might make the timber option not quite as cheap as it first looks? The steel option looks interesting and certainly more manageable as a DIY project. Don't fancy lifting those concrete posts on my own!
i think Stuart bought his weighing scales from the same place I did 🤣🤣🤣
Hi Stuart - have you done a video comparing your posts to the incised options? Still timber, but the treatment does penetrate a bit further in to the core.
Also, the post saver. Are you not creating a route for moisture by stapling it?
Durapost also do a galvanised version that is significantly cheaper than the powdecoat options. They're not pretty, but a bit of cladding...
The housing estate by me has recently been refenced using galv posts. I never saw them do the work but I wonder if these drop nicely into the hole the previous timberpost was in to save diging new holes as well.
Nice timing....we just lost our back fence due to hurricane Beryl.
Hi Stuart, loved the video and great tips as always. Have you tried using Huber Zip System Stretch Tape. Wow, this stuff is sticky and can stretch to any shape. This would have wrapped your post bottom lovely, I would have double wrapped it though just in case a layer was punctured by a stone on installation. Thanks for sharing
I put up a fence using concrete posts and gravel boards over 35 years ago. It is set into heavy wet clay soil and is still as good as the day I put it up. I don't think it can be beaten for durability by any other system. I'm not convinced that a powder coated steel post will last anywhere near as long as a concrete one that's almost the same price.
Totally agree, mines been up 5yrs no probs, on the one side as a 4 x 4 rots out I change it to concrete 3 wooden posts to go then all concrete H type posts......
We're very happy that our house was a rental 20 years ago. They put all that in. I do like a full timber fence too, but only for the first 5 or 10 years. After that you often get a few wavy lines and it starts to look a bit tired. But I don't like fences anyway, I feel more like they keep me in, rather than the neighbours out. I prefer hedges.
I suspect that bitumen keeps moisture in the wood making conditions just as bad.
Concrete posts last longer but fail eventually as the rebar rusts
Great video again fella..
Durapost is the way to go and isn't much more expensive than the wood when you take into account that you have got to buy the bitumen wrap, then faff around wrapping it around the post then heat it with a heat gun and probably paint the wooden post to make it look nicer, all the time it has taken you to do that you would have a Durapost in the ground. The hole on Durapost doesn't need to be so big as hole as for a wooden post. I have used wooden fence Post's in the past but for the other side of the garden I used Durapost and would recommend Durapost.
Stuart, durapost how long before it goes rusty would be my concern but I like the idea of
I’m curious if you looked at the recycled plastic ones? Heavy but solid and last forever
I soaked my 4x4 posts in Cuprinol 5 star wood treatment for a week and they are still strong 22 years later
In the past I have used timber posts, which have spent a week partly submerged in used engine oil and creosote. Only submerge portion of the post that is to go in the ground +100mm as the oil mix stays greasy on the surface and will transfer to clothes etc when you touch it. I would have thought the steel post you show would have less deflection once the rails are screwed in to it?
Is wooden posts with a concrete spur an alternative I have seen a whole new fence done this way. You get the traditional look of wood with the reassurance of concrete but not the weight
wood post, bitumen primer 1st then flashband
What do you think about to use a heated iron which is usually used for fabrics?
The only problem with durapost is that, sure its galvanized and painted. But the second it gets a scratch on it, its just a matter of time before rust starts and then blisters the paint and spreads. And with screws being driven though it, and scraping against the aggregates in the post mix etc, I think scratches are unavoidable.
I just looked into getting some stainless steel box section (50mm by 50mm) and then slitting it down the middle, and then self tapping itself back to back using stainless screws to make two U sections that form the fence post, just like the durapost. But cheapest I can find for 3mm wall thick is 45 quid a meter. So 3ish meters per post quickly makes it way too expensive. It was a nice idea though.
Snap! I’m about 12 stone as well. 😊
12 , 1/2 stone😂 yeah right. On serious note I look forward to your videos every week. You're a funny guy.
I must have the same bathroom scales as you. I come in at around 12 stone too........+/-
Put in a load of poata down the garden uaing those post protector sleeves recently. Im under no illusion they'll be guaranteed for 20 years, but if i got 10-12 id be happy. When they go ill prob replace with concrete posts. My wife likes wooden fences and akthiugh they require a lot more maintenance they do look nice at the end if the day.
_Never twelve stone!_ - you're built like me - so 11 stone max - and 32" waist jeans like we've always worn... Right..?
The main problem with wood posts is the concrete around the post. No drainage. I mix one bag of concrete to about 5x of 1/2” gravel. No water but wet rocks are a plus. Pack this in layers around your post then give it a good spray of water. This will create drainage gaps through the material. Don’t forget 4” to 6” of clean gravel on the bottom for better drainage too. Works great. 20 plus year old posts are doing fine, a bit weathered but no rot.
If you are using post mix etc will the metal rot in time because of concrete meeting steel or will the powder coat save it ?
Very cool.
The great British garden dilemma. Wood rotts, metal rusts, plastic fades and fatigues, concrete cracks.
My experience of powder coating is that it's no were as good as the manufacturer would have us believe it seems to crack allowing water ingress which then rots the steel out underneath it and the first thing you know about it is when it fails
I have seen recycled HDPE park beaches, so, just wondering if they make the same in posts..? which should be cheap & rot-proof, & nailable....? I know they make decking boards from a mixture of plastic & wood-chips, but that's just asking for trouble...🤔