The red F-150 suffered a vacuum leak and I was able to trace it down to the power brake booster check valve. I installed a new one and the leak stopped.
This solved my problems it popped off while I was refueling my car couldn't locate the problem but a cop found it and told me it needed to be replaced.... found it a local oreilys for $6... everywhere I went told me it was the transmission or brakes or a sensor anything to get me to buy things I did not need
Sometimes they tell you what to buy because they dont think of less common parts. My co worker at oreilly used to think that misfire codes were only caused by spark plugs or ignition coils
Spray it with a lubricant like PB Fabulous B'Laster or WD-40, grab the spring clamp with needle nose pliers, then gently twist side to side as you pull It helps it keep from getting hung up coming off the hose, going in dry is just asking for trouble.
Blow on the hose end and you'll hear the valve inside move and cut the air off. Blow on the booster side and and there will be no restricion on air flow. That's a good booster valve. Sometimes the valves just get stuck and blowing hard on them will free them up.
I'm having the same problem on my Buick. Just remove the hose with the engine running and place your finger over the hose and if you feel the and hear the engine idles high then you know the hose has a leak not the brake booster. I'm no mechanic but this car is teaching me 🤘🏼
This went out on my 70 mustang and it made the brake pedal impossible to use and the whole car felt like it was going to die.. the stupid plastic cap on the check valve blew off after making a gun shot sound. I just got my new one in the mail since I decided to spend $18 for an aluminum one instead of plastic
Brake Kleen would rinse it out and fix the leak. Harbor Freight sells the cheap pliers that will remove the clamp, and the pliers that separate the hose from the fitting. $15 total on a good day.
How would I know if it's just the check valve? Do I replace it first? Brake shop is quoting me $650 for power brake booster installment without even checking the hoses or valves. I know it's because I'm a girl. 2000 Toyota Tundra
If you pull off the check valve and try to blow into the hose end, it should prevent you. You should only be able to blow into the booster end. I recommend some sort of dental dam for this, like a cut up rubber glove or even just an O-ring with your fingers.
I have a case of front brakes locking up at the slightest touch of the pedal especially felt at low speeds. some suggested the check valve. anyone? (2000 Ford Ranger 2.5)
Hey man; my dodge brakes go almost to the floor; i can stop if i press down real hard but there is no 'power brakes'. when i press on the pedal, it makes an air whooshing noise and the air sound continues at a stop while i'm pressing down at a stop sign. Could this check valve fix that? Is my brake booster bad? Hope you can help. Thanks
Righteous! What pliers were those you used for that spring clamp? Also, could you just use a hose clamp or should it be specifically a spring clamp? Thx for the radical vid!
What's that round thing to the left (truck left, video right) of the master cylinder? There's a hose-like thing coming out of the middle of it which on my truck goes nowhere - it just hangs in space,with no obvious place to connect to.
Ted Felix Indeed it is. I replaced the engine air filter a while back, which was a major job due to wallowed-out retaining threads for the cover, and traced all the stuff coming out of the round thing. One of them obviously went to the fuel injection assembly, so I decied it was something to do with the cruise control. No, it doesn't work; would like to make it work, but it's pretty low on my list. Thanks.
Hello and good evening. My brake pedal touch the floor. Could it be that the brake booster is bad or the valve need to be replaced? I also noticed an air leak every time I press the brake pedal.
I think the problem is between the master cylinder and your calipers. Check for leaks and bleed the calipers one at a time. A bad booster and/or check valve results in a stiff pedal that cannot reach the floor.
Hello everybody. I have a 2001 ford crown Vic Lx my problem is when I was backing up in a spot it had a dip in the ground so while Iam backing up the car went down I hit the brake but it seem like I had to put lot of force to make it stop another time driving down hill it felt I had to really push hard to stop again can anybody help me out thanks
Hi what was actual problem with idle? How did behave? Mine is bad shudder and misfire almost like to stall and its picking up again. Happening only on D and R with break pedal applied. But when I disconnect the break vacuum pipe from booster vacuum pump where on the other end of this pipe is a check valve than is okay no problem but I didn't drive just in case that may have no breaks. By the way normally breaks are ok just idle problem on stationery and when accelerating on low revs only. Please help and also have videos on my profile about this so you can have look to diagnose problem. Thank you appreciate any help.
I have a 94 Toyota 4x4 and that brake pedal is hard as a rock and it will not stop I can pushed in on the pedal and the motor stutters trying to figure out the problemI.
My brake pedal is soft when the car is running. But when it’s off it’s hard as a fucking rock. I bled the brakes literally 5 fucking times. Should I replace the check valve?
Excellent. You are the first of many of these videos that actually showed the valve and how to get it out of the booster.
This solved my problems it popped off while I was refueling my car couldn't locate the problem but a cop found it and told me it needed to be replaced.... found it a local oreilys for $6... everywhere I went told me it was the transmission or brakes or a sensor anything to get me to buy things I did not need
Sometimes they tell you what to buy because they dont think of less common parts. My co worker at oreilly used to think that misfire codes were only caused by spark plugs or ignition coils
Dominique White do you have a part number for that check valve?
Very nice truck man, I can tell you've put some work into that engine bay.
No matter the looks. Still a nice truck man
Those spring clamps should be outlawed; I went temporarily insane one time trying to get one off.
You got that right!!!! I think I've went mad fooling with them too.
Electrician's/Linesman pliers work well for those.
Spray it with a lubricant like PB Fabulous B'Laster or WD-40, grab the spring clamp with needle nose pliers, then gently twist side to side as you pull
It helps it keep from getting hung up coming off the hose, going in dry is just asking for trouble.
@@rotaryskratch18 Going in dry can be a frustrating and uncomfortable experience for everyone involved.
I would have liked to have got a look at that clamp pliers, rather than the other side of the truck. :)
Thanks sir for making this video very helpful and educational 👍🏽👍🏽
I have an air leak in my brake booster but I don't know if it is the check valve or the actual brake booster, is there a way to test the check valve?.
Would have been nice to demonstrate how to check the valve by blowing through it. Thought that was the whole purpose of the video.
Blow on the hose end and you'll hear the valve inside move and cut the air off. Blow on the booster side and and there will be no restricion on air flow. That's a good booster valve. Sometimes the valves just get stuck and blowing hard on them will free them up.
I'm having the same problem on my Buick. Just remove the hose with the engine running and place your finger over the hose and if you feel the and hear the engine idles high then you know the hose has a leak not the brake booster. I'm no mechanic but this car is teaching me 🤘🏼
So if you do that and it's fine does that mean it's the booster itself?
This went out on my 70 mustang and it made the brake pedal impossible to use and the whole car felt like it was going to die.. the stupid plastic cap on the check valve blew off after making a gun shot sound. I just got my new one in the mail since I decided to spend $18 for an aluminum one instead of plastic
Brakes very hard or very soft?
whats the test for a bad valve on this? blows both directions? so it should be one direction only then??
Hose side should stop air flow. Booster side should not.
Brake Kleen would rinse it out and fix the leak. Harbor Freight sells the cheap pliers that will remove the clamp, and the pliers that separate the hose from the fitting. $15 total on a good day.
Just got a 78 Dodge RV with sucky brakes and starts then dies, gonna check this booster valve, thanks!
That's a nice 80s ford there.
Thanks! It's a little rusty though.
nice truck
So the check valve shouldn't leak even if you were to grab it and wiggle it slightly up and down right.
Does it need a clamp on it? I replaced one that didn't have a clamp on it
where did you get your check valve from
so a decent steady idle indicates vacuum is good to go?
More times than not yes
How would I know if it's just the check valve? Do I replace it first? Brake shop is quoting me $650 for power brake booster installment without even checking the hoses or valves. I know it's because I'm a girl. 2000 Toyota Tundra
If you pull off the check valve and try to blow into the hose end, it should prevent you. You should only be able to blow into the booster end.
I recommend some sort of dental dam for this, like a cut up rubber glove or even just an O-ring with your fingers.
Punch that guy in the throat and watch a few more RUclips videos and you'll be a pro in an hour of research.
CODMarioWarfare I felt dirty reading your comment.
Toytacamary
I have a case of front brakes locking up at the slightest touch of the pedal especially felt at low speeds. some suggested the check valve. anyone? (2000 Ford Ranger 2.5)
Replace the rotten brake hoses.
New title: the stuggles of garbage clamp removal.
Why Didn't You Replace The Hose !
Hey man; my dodge brakes go almost to the floor; i can stop if i press down real hard but there is no 'power brakes'. when i press on the pedal, it makes an air whooshing noise and the air sound continues at a stop while i'm pressing down at a stop sign. Could this check valve fix that? Is my brake booster bad? Hope you can help. Thanks
I just got a Dodge that does the same thing, did you ever figure it out?
I have the same problem in my Mitsubishi.
My KW was doing this for a week straight.
Anyone figure it out? Lol
Righteous! What pliers were those you used for that spring clamp? Also, could you just use a hose clamp or should it be specifically a spring clamp? Thx for the radical vid!
Those are just an old adjustable pliers it looks like, I have about 5 of them in varying sizes, handy bastards.
did it hiss too everytime you stepped on the brakes ?
quick question does this work if u have issues when pressing the break pedal n it sounds like theres an air leak?? its for my 79 z28 thank u🙏
but how did you know this valve was bad besides looking old
Thanks buddy👍
Try holding the camera steady!!
What's that round thing to the left (truck left, video right) of the master cylinder? There's a hose-like thing coming out of the middle of it which on my truck goes nowhere - it just hangs in space,with no obvious place to connect to.
Phoebe Ann Sharp Looks like the cruise control. Does the truck have cruise control? Is it working?
Ted Felix Indeed it is. I replaced the engine air filter a while back, which was a major job due to wallowed-out retaining threads for the cover, and traced all the stuff coming out of the round thing. One of them obviously went to the fuel injection assembly, so I decied it was something to do with the cruise control. No, it doesn't work; would like to make it work, but it's pretty low on my list. Thanks.
Im hearing a hissing sound under the steering wheel when I turn the truck on. Hiss for a few seconds.
Thank you. Is this also one of the hose you would use to find a vacuum leak with smoke?. Great video and explanation. Thank you.
Yes it is and one of the best points to do a smoke test.
Anyone know where you can buy a new check valve for a 91 C4
Would bad check valve make whistling nose coming from booster?
It could, and a bad diaphragm will cause it too.
Hello and good evening. My brake pedal touch the floor. Could it be that the brake booster is bad or the valve need to be replaced? I also noticed an air leak every time I press the brake pedal.
I think the problem is between the master cylinder and your calipers. Check for leaks and bleed the calipers one at a time. A bad booster and/or check valve results in a stiff pedal that cannot reach the floor.
isnt it bad to use patrolium jelly on your rubbers?? lol
+Arian Kukaj Yeah I would use silicone spray.
just rub some spit on it... worked for me!
I use silicone paste on all the rubbers. Since it's not made of petroleum this eatting away the rubber.
lotta people not getting the joke
Thanks for this video.
Not so easy to get for a 2nd Gen 4Runner. Dealer part. Grommet and valve together are around $100, even more if you need to replace the vacuum line.
So it does also help with brakes too right?
Not really. It just keeps the vacuum from bleeding backwards.
that exhaust sounded like a helicopter....lol
Yeah, I'm going to get around to putting new exhaust on it very soon. Those glasspacks are going to be gone.
Hello everybody. I have a 2001 ford crown Vic Lx my problem is when I was backing up in a spot it had a dip in the ground so while Iam backing up the car went down I hit the brake but it seem like I had to put lot of force to make it stop another time driving down hill it felt I had to really push hard to stop again can anybody help me out thanks
$6 ?! Mine juat cost me $31 for a 93 Chevy 1500
You're using the wrong tool to take that hose clamp off dude!
don't put that clamp back on!!!!
Hi what was actual problem with idle? How did behave? Mine is bad shudder and misfire almost like to stall and its picking up again. Happening only on D and R with break pedal applied. But when I disconnect the break vacuum pipe from booster vacuum pump where on the other end of this pipe is a check valve than is okay no problem but I didn't drive just in case that may have no breaks. By the way normally breaks are ok just idle problem on stationery and when accelerating on low revs only.
Please help and also have videos on my profile about this so you can have look to diagnose problem.
Thank you appreciate any help.
I have a 94 Toyota 4x4 and that brake pedal is hard as a rock and it will not stop I can pushed in on the pedal and the motor stutters trying to figure out the problemI.
Oil pressure is “good”?? It is reading ‘H’ !!!
And that's a good thing, H stands for High not Hot if that's what you're thinking. Low oil pressure is a bad thing.
How much does a check value cost
Less than $6
My brake pedal is soft when the car is running. But when it’s off it’s hard as a fucking rock. I bled the brakes literally 5 fucking times. Should I replace the check valve?
u need the right tools
specifically searched for BMW. This is not a BMW
Diana C it’s the same thing tho..
I hate those clamps