Functionally operates just as it should ruclips.net/user/postUgkxiiMg_x4gIWeXMWfBnDdRnME4qJUAva4w holds pressure perfectly when not in use. Glad one of the other reviews pointed out that the bottom pressure release valve was open; thought it was defective at first.
Great vid!! Everyone who has a compressor should know all this stuff. Most of us guys have no idea how much danger is sitting in that corner of the shop making all that racket!!
good work? felt dizzy after trying to read capacitor specs out of focus. No one has informed him about minimum criteria for posting videos. at least know how to focus your camera or use a camera that can focus.
My compressor would trip the breaker immediately when I turned it on. At first I thought I had a bad starting cap, but I tested mine and it checked out ok. I watched your video and saw the part about sanding the points on the on/off switch and decided to take a look at mine, and they were in really bad shape. A light touch of some 220 grit sandpaper and some contact cleaner fixed the issue. Thanks.
There is no DC voltage applied so the chances of residual charge is pretty low, but safety comes first. Also the voltage and value of the capacitors can change over time. The dielectric material inside the cap can drift with heat and time. Good video I hope it saves a lot of motors out there!
First off, thanks a lot Cecil !, My Devilbiss compressor went down about 6 years ago,(Fuse ) and thanks to being able to see the the Numbers on your capacitors(which got lost) I ordered 2 wired it up and wam bam.... It has awaken from a long slumber. Again I thank you and your upload , Kevin
Thank you! This has got to be the most useful video I've senn yet! 3 days I've been on this dang Internet looking for straight forward answers and your video cleared up all my questions! Thanks again!
Usually if there is only one capacitor, it is a start capacitor to get the motor running but does not need a run capacitor to keep it running. Thanks for the great question.
Great video Cecil, this is what youtube garage is all about, we all learn or are al least refreshed when someone has a problem and we help each other. Thanks, Wendell
Great video, I found out from you why my breaker kept blowing! was not getting up to speed (Bad start cap) then would over heat, so replaced start cap. Still happened, overheat slow start?? Took belt off found bearing bad! would never had figured out without your exclamation of the fly weight dropping the hard start caps! Thanks again! Great video!
That's a very helpful vid Cecil...Electricity plays for keeps...I got bit once...240v @ 10 amps...It sure let me know who the boss was..!..Threw me off a ladder and across the room...Ouch..!
hi guys...just on on pressure switch issue, contacts being welded together...i had same prob but just wired the switch to a relay which in turn fed the motor...relay ampage is rated a lot higher and will never have any problems...its like a slave for your pressure switch..its doing all the work and saves the lil guy :-)
Oh right, I'm not clued up on motors and things, but I know who to call if I get a problem right??!!!! thanks for the vid cecil, and I hope you're having a good day :)
some motors are split phase there is no start or run capacitor but uses the centrifiqual switch to cut the power off the start windings used for moderate starting requirements. a capacitor start induction run and capacitor start and capacitor run are for higher starting requirements for air compressors unless if you have 3 phase power you can use a suitable 3 phase motor of the same hp rating.
tks for the video you help me a lot.(i got a air compressor and star running very weak and after 15 seconds makes like up and down en then dies.) you know any store they can have a capacitor or needs to be ordered by online.?
I believe Gary said it ended up that the motor was just full of sanding dust on the centrifugal switch points and the guy at the shop blew it out and it ran fine so he returned the capacitors. Funny story about the camera zap(unless you were the engineer).lol Capacitors have eaten my lunch a few times and it is NOT FUN. Thanks for watching Dave.
I think you got the general idea down pretty good. I would not recommend any one to buy parts from Grainger unless you just can't find anywhere else. Grainger has it all and most likely in stock but are you ready to pay that premium price. Just get the numbers off the old cap and google it. I had a start cap get burned up a quick search on line I purchased a two start caps and two run for my compressor. So that's 4 caps free 2 day shipping and it was $23 bucks. Now if you have to have that day then get the $30 one from Grainger. I would like to add a cause for a start cap to smoke. The copper line that goes from tank to compressor head. There is a little brass fitting screwed in the tank and the copper line hooked into it. That fitting in the tank is a check valve. It let's air in from compressor head but when the compressor stops it keeps the air in the tank. There is also a small copper line sometimes it comes from the head of compressor sometimes from the little check valve in the tank. Ok now the other end of little line goes to the pressure control box. So this is important to know how this all works because if this system is not working right you will destroy a motor or start cap fast. So here is how it goes. The compressor runs until it reaches it set top pressure in the little box he is talking about cleaning the contacts. When it reaches pressure its contacts open. The little copper line going to it has a small valve similar to a valve stem. When the they open the compressor stops and the contacts then press the little valve and this let's the air trapped between the compressor and check valve. This has to be working. If the check valve is bad or or it fails to empty the pressure from the head of compressor than the compressor tries to start under load. Most of the time it just sets and hums. But will start sometimes but real slow. Most the time it hums and the the start cap will get smoked. And smoked as in that's what it will do is blow up or the start cap will smoke. I typing all this so you can better understand how your compressor works and know why its burned up. Because if you don't fix the problem you will be replacing more than one cap. Nice video a bit shaky on camera works. I hope you don't mind the long comment. Just trying to make sure people understand what other parts they might need.
Thank you Jeremy for taking the time to watch the video and all of the fantastic information in your comment. I really appreciate the great information. :-)
+cecil6711 sure thing. i glad you took the time to make one in the first place. there is a lot of stuff I hate about modern technology. but that said if a person takes the time to watch some videos and read some postings you can kinda tell when it's something to put stock into. or if it helpful or someone speaking from their ass. but that said aside from learning brain surgery there really isn't much you can not learn off RUclips and the net in general. but it really is because of people like your self making the videos. I keep saying now I retired I just going make RUclips videos. I got a couple on some homemade tools but just keep putting off doing more. so thank you. I book marked this I want to go check out a few more of your videos
Process of elimination, remove v belt, turn it on. Continue misbehaving? electric side is the culprit. If not, then place the v belt back on run to where it would start having issues, stop the compressor, bleed the air and restart if issue reappears at a given psi, say 60 or 80 then, most likely check valve is guilty.
WHEN SHORTING THE CAPACITOR USE AN INSULATED SCREWDRIVER OR CALL THE PARAMEDICS AS YOU MAY END UP IN A WOODEN BOX THIS IS NOT SOMETHING TO TAKE LIGHTLY
Thank you cecil for the offer, I may well take you up on that. Yeah I'm alive and well, didn't do too much on the car today, but might do a video in a while :)
I was looking for brushes did not find any but find capacitors one black n one white. I did not know one is for start n one is runner. I found the air compressor motor at the scrap yard n I take home to fix it. it looks good. so am looking around for video how to check ot if it is good. ur video is formative. 10-Q
Usually the wires on each capacitor go on each terminal opposite each other and color doesn't matter as long as you get one wire on each terminal . It is important however to put the capacitors back on the same wire pairs they came from(left cap back where it came off and right cap back where it came from). If you need further help,pm me and I will be glad to help. :-)
Just today my 5hp quincy stopped working, with only a loud humming sound and no movement when switched on. Hopefully with your guidance I will solve the problem. Do you think most likely its the start capacitor, as opposed to the centrifugal switch. Thank you Cecil for a well executed tutorial, you certainly make the world a better place!
It does sound like the start capacitor as the centrifugal switch usually sticks in the low speed position (at least in my experience) which would let it start turning but would prevent it from going up to full speed. You might also want to check to make sure you are getting full voltage to the motor through the pressure switch before purchasing a new start cap. I hope this helps and thanks for watching the video. :-)
@@cecil6711 Solved the problem today. It was the female connector on capacitor separated from the stud where its riveted. In the past I got a temporary fix by attempting to solder it back on. This time could not solder it back so I drilled into the stud and tried securing connector with a screw. Don't no how long it will last, but working as of five hours ago. Do you have any suggestions how to secure the connector back to the stud where once held by a rivet? I ordered a replacement capacitor, but I enjoy the challenge to to repair it. Anyway thanks for the prompt response and I send my blessings to you and family from New Rochelle N.Y. All the best, Bruce
@@stewartbruce2409 I am glad you figured out the issue Bruce. Could you possibly use a small machine screw with a nylok nut instead of the screw? It sounds like you are running out of options on the tab of the capacitor. I enjoy the challenge of repairing instead of replacing stuff as well but sometimes you only get so many chances before you have to bite the bullet and replace a component. Good luck and all the best. Cecil
Catching up on vids. Did it turn out to be the cap? Sometimes that little centrifugal switch can stick. Funny story - drinking with buds on a ski weekend about 10 years ago. Drunk electrical engineer taking apart one of those old disposable cameras. He says "Ya gotta be careful with these things cause even though it's not that big, the cap for the flash can carry a large ZZZAAAAAAAPPP" and he falls backward off his chair going "OW OW OW OW OW!"
Your run cap should not need discharge since it is in series with the coil. I'm surprised your start cap does not have a bleeder resistor. Great video BTW.
I have recently found you on youtube and I have thoroughly enjoyed the information that I have gleaned. Thank you for all the hours of information and training. I found your channel on youtube while I was looking for information about run/start capacitors for an Emerson T63xwbss1486 air compressor electric motor. The start capacitor is definitely bad but unfortunately as it seems to happen regularly the housing that holds the capacitor is rubbing on the information printed on the capacitor so i have no idea what value capacitors i'm dealing with. I have attempted to get the information through the vendor and through Home Depot, but they are of no help. Is there a way to figure out the value for the capacitor that I can use. Thank you very much for your time and any help that you can offer! Ron Brown I have the spec plate info if you have a place to upload the pics. Any other members with info or better yet the same motor would be awsome.
Hi Ron. Thanks for the kind words and watching my videos. I was unable to come up with any information on the capacitors for your motor but I will continue to look and reply back if I find anything.
i hope that you can help me i have a compressor that it when I use the air and it needs to refill it sounds like it turns off and on and it takes a while to get it to fill and everything else works after its filled
Great video! Quick question, i just bought a run and start capacitor for my old coleman powermate black max series. Everytime i turn it on it trips my breaker. Any tips on what to do to stop this?
No I haven't been zapped by one of those but it is about the only thing that hasn't lit me up.lol I have gotten shocked too many times to count(may explain whats wrong with me). :-P Thanks for watching.
Great video buddy!! Awesome info about air compressors! Hey but quick question for ya. I got a double pull 30 amp breaker running mine, and every so often it kicks the breaker when it goes to start. I reset the the breaker and it will run fine,most time it starts and runs with no problem, but it seams like every 5 start cycles it trips the breaker. Not sure if I have a bad breaker or maybe I'm using to low of a breaker. Any thoughts?
Great video, thank you. My motor on my compressor looks identical to in the video but has just one capacitor on top. Would that be a start and run capacitor combined or should I look for another capacitor somewhere?
How much horsepower does this motor have? I have a 5HP motor on an 80 gallon tank in which the original Run capacitor has been lost. I have a 25MFD 370V working now but the cover will not go over it and bolt back in place on the motor as its too wide at 2 inches. Mine has 2 start capacitors and one run capacitor. I checked the size of the one you have here and its 1-3/4 wide which would fit my cover.
I just got a really old Sears air compressor from my dad. When plugged in, it just hums. I removed the capacitor.. It only has 2 terminals like the one on the right (in your video). I found a similar one for sale on amazon. Im gonna order it, but how do I know which wire goes where? I mean, theres only two possibilities... What would happen if they go on backward?
What would cause the start up capacitor to smoke and pop ? I had two mess up already and don't know where to trouble shoot. Air compressor and motor sound fine, but after a few seconds turning it on the capacitor starts to smoke and then trips my breaker.
It could be a couple of things. First, does the motor have a centrifugal switch on the wired end? If it does and it is stuck it could be keeping the motor engaged in the start windings and overload them to smoke the capacitor. Second, remove the belt and try just starting the motor without the compressor to check motor operation without any load on it and see if it comes up to full rpm. If it starts and runs,then shut it off and replace the drive belt and use an amp meter on the motor power wires to check amp draw with the belt tightened to specifications. It is also possible the motor bearings could be sticking causing drag on the motor. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching the video.
Have this same issue i bought it used it had a cut wire fixed the wire and fired it up blew capacitor instantly noticed the capacitor that was in it was to small got the correct capacitor and it also blew! 😭
Have a Devilbiss C5E60VAD-1 with 5 peak hp motor. Motor has a start and a run capacitor. So far I have replaced the in tank check valve and the start capacitor. Still having trouble as follows: If the tank is empty, everything starts and runs normally until the pressure switch turn the motor off. I can stop and start anywhere from zero pressure to cut off pressure and all seems normal. I can come back an hour later and try to start and then the motor bogs down and turns the pump much slower. The unloader valve seems to be working fine. I have removed the unloader tube and checked to make sure it in not obstructed. I can disconnect the 1/2 inch tube that runs from pump discharge to tank check valve and the compressor starts and runs normally. I can then push the tube into the pump discharge and the motor will bog down again. The run capacitor checks good and within the - 6% tolerance. I was wondering if you had run in to any thing like this. Could the motor be getting weak? Run capacitor bad? Something else? I am stumped. Please help.
Great info , my compressor starts then trips the breaker but today it ran for around 30seconds then tripped the breaker i guess i might need to change both capasitors ?.I took the belt off and the motor runs fine! Update my comp has only one capacitor ????
I phoned the company which sold me the comp and the guy gave me a few things to try , take the belt off and run motor untill it heats up hold a bit of wood against the pully and see if it trips , i did this and it only tripped when i had the motor nearly stalling so i let the motor run for 20 min then i attached the belt and hey ho its running now so one thing he told me was that it might be damp inside and seems it must have been.But i tried to start 3 hrs later and again it tripped the beaker so did the same sinario belt off, run motor and after it heated up it would run again !!!!! Could this still be the single capacitor? or is the motor on its way out???.
I have a t30 Ingersoll Rand compressor. It was missing a capacitor. So not knowing I took the model number off the one that was still connected and bought another one of the same. The motor has four wires coming from it. The capacitor has four connections. So with the other one I bought there are now eight connections on the two capacitors. But only four wires coming from the motor. How do I connect these wires to the two capacitors. The model number on my motor is 6k757bb. One more thing is both of the capacitors are mounted in the same box. Rite next to each other. I'm only saying this because I seen compressors that have two capacitors but their separate. Located on either side of the motor. Mine are connected within the same housing. So that led me to believe that they were connected to each other. Can u help me? I've exhausted my online searches and can't find anything to help.
If you pay anyything near that much money, you're overpaying for your start capacitors. I buy mine from Burden Sales Surplus Center, where they only cost about 10% that much.
There is no positive or negative on the capacitors so it is not possible. Most motor capacitors are not marked with the exception of some of the specialty HVAc units which are marked with common and hermetic and possibly fan if the capacitor is a dual unit in a single canister. Thanks for watching the video.
My old capacitor has 2 port cables but the store where I bought the new one has like 4 ports each side , then I just can plug the cables on any of each side thanks brother.
My last question is a 440 vac/B is going to work the same as the 450vac for a 20 gallon compressor? This video help me a lot my friend good video thanks for the right información.
So my compressor starts up and then it goes to trying to pull 26 amps or more then breaker pops. All within a 10 second or less period. Does that sound like run capacitor?
I would check the amperage draw on the motor as well as the rpm's to make sure the motor was getting up to full revolutions and the amp draw was within the motor ratings. It is also possible the run capacitor is defective. Good luck.
Hello! Thank you for the video! I have a different problem. I have what looks like the exact same motor but I have no data plate. I am wanting to convert from 120 VAC to 240 VAC. Is there a diagram on the motor or do you have the make and model numbers? Thanks again Joe
Functionally operates just as it should ruclips.net/user/postUgkxiiMg_x4gIWeXMWfBnDdRnME4qJUAva4w holds pressure perfectly when not in use. Glad one of the other reviews pointed out that the bottom pressure release valve was open; thought it was defective at first.
Great vid!! Everyone who has a compressor should know all this stuff. Most of us guys have no idea how much danger is sitting in that corner of the shop making all that racket!!
You rock, thank you for number 1 warning me of shock danger and number 2 explaining in layman's terms. Keep up the good work.
good work? felt dizzy after trying to read capacitor specs out of focus. No one has informed him about minimum criteria for posting videos. at least know how to focus your camera or use a camera that can focus.
My compressor would trip the breaker immediately when I turned it on. At first I thought I had a bad starting cap, but I tested mine and it checked out ok. I watched your video and saw the part about sanding the points on the on/off switch and decided to take a look at mine, and they were in really bad shape. A light touch of some 220 grit sandpaper and some contact cleaner fixed the issue. Thanks.
I am happy the video helped you.
Thanks for watching. :-)
There is no DC voltage applied so the chances of residual charge is pretty low, but safety comes first. Also the voltage and value of the capacitors can change over time. The dielectric material inside the cap can drift with heat and time. Good video I hope it saves a lot of motors out there!
First off, thanks a lot Cecil !, My Devilbiss compressor went down about 6 years ago,(Fuse ) and thanks to being able to see the the Numbers on your capacitors(which got lost) I ordered 2 wired it up and wam bam.... It has awaken from a long slumber. Again I thank you and your upload , Kevin
Thank you! This has got to be the most useful video I've senn yet! 3 days I've been on this dang Internet looking for straight forward answers and your video cleared up all my questions! Thanks again!
I've learned something today, I didn't know a motor had a start and run capacitor, so thank you cecil :)
Usually if there is only one capacitor, it is a start capacitor to get the motor running but does not need a run capacitor to keep it running.
Thanks for the great question.
Great video Cecil, this is what youtube garage is all about, we all learn or are al least refreshed when someone has a problem and we help each other. Thanks, Wendell
Great video, I found out from you why my breaker kept blowing!
was not getting up to speed (Bad start cap) then would over heat, so replaced start cap. Still happened, overheat slow start?? Took belt off found bearing bad! would never had figured out without your exclamation of the fly weight dropping the hard start caps! Thanks again! Great video!
Glad you're a part of the garage gang! Thanks for the video.
Whoa, I just had a flashback to my High School electronics class! I actually understood most of what you were talking about. Thanks.
That's a very helpful vid Cecil...Electricity plays for keeps...I got bit once...240v @ 10 amps...It sure let me know who the boss was..!..Threw me off a ladder and across the room...Ouch..!
Awesome, thanks Cecil, I will be headed down to Grainger later today to get the capacitors. Appreciate you making the video and calling me last night.
hi guys...just on on pressure switch issue, contacts being welded together...i had same prob but just wired the switch to a relay which in turn fed the motor...relay ampage is rated a lot higher and will never have any problems...its like a slave for your pressure switch..its doing all the work and saves the lil guy :-)
Thank you! Inspired me to try fixing my motor instead of purchase another.
Great video with good information for all, Thanks for taking the time to make it.
awesome video with awesome viseos...
You da man! You answered every question I had in this one video. Thanks.
Oh right, I'm not clued up on motors and things, but I know who to call if I get a problem right??!!!! thanks for the vid cecil, and I hope you're having a good day :)
That was excellent information!
Thank you for the comment and for watching the video.
some motors are split phase there is no start or run capacitor but uses the centrifiqual switch to cut the power off the start windings used for moderate starting requirements. a capacitor start induction run and capacitor start and capacitor run are for higher starting requirements for air compressors unless if you have 3 phase power you can use a suitable 3 phase motor of the same hp rating.
excellent explantion,excellent information,excellent video all my thumbs are up !!!!!!!
stop using your phone camera until you learn how to use it. However your info is correct and useful.
Good vid!! I've seen the aftermath of a cap blowing because it weren't discharged, its not a pretty sight, the guy barely survived. Later.....
Me too.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
tks for the video you help me a lot.(i got a air compressor and star running very weak and after 15 seconds makes like up and down en then dies.)
you know any store they can have a capacitor or needs to be ordered by online.?
Great explanation !
I believe Gary said it ended up that the motor was just full of sanding dust on the centrifugal switch points and the guy at the shop blew it out and it ran fine so he returned the capacitors.
Funny story about the camera zap(unless you were the engineer).lol
Capacitors have eaten my lunch a few times and it is NOT FUN.
Thanks for watching Dave.
Thank for watching John.
thanks for the video. in the middle of diagnosing my compressor. thanks for clearing some stuff up i was confused about
I am pleased the video helped you.
Thanks for watching and commenting on the video, I really appreciate it.
Thank you for checking out the video.
I am glad you enjoyed the video.
Great idea.
Thanks for watching.
I think you got the general idea down pretty good. I would not recommend any one to buy parts from Grainger unless you just can't find anywhere else. Grainger has it all and most likely in stock but are you ready to pay that premium price. Just get the numbers off the old cap and google it. I had a start cap get burned up a quick search on line I purchased a two start caps and two run for my compressor. So that's 4 caps free 2 day shipping and it was $23 bucks. Now if you have to have that day then get the $30 one from Grainger. I would like to add a cause for a start cap to smoke. The copper line that goes from tank to compressor head. There is a little brass fitting screwed in the tank and the copper line hooked into it. That fitting in the tank is a check valve. It let's air in from compressor head but when the compressor stops it keeps the air in the tank. There is also a small copper line sometimes it comes from the head of compressor sometimes from the little check valve in the tank. Ok now the other end of little line goes to the pressure control box. So this is important to know how this all works because if this system is not working right you will destroy a motor or start cap fast. So here is how it goes. The compressor runs until it reaches it set top pressure in the little box he is talking about cleaning the contacts. When it reaches pressure its contacts open. The little copper line going to it has a small valve similar to a valve stem. When the they open the compressor stops and the contacts then press the little valve and this let's the air trapped between the compressor and check valve. This has to be working. If the check valve is bad or or it fails to empty the pressure from the head of compressor than the compressor tries to start under load. Most of the time it just sets and hums. But will start sometimes but real slow. Most the time it hums and the the start cap will get smoked. And smoked as in that's what it will do is blow up or the start cap will smoke. I typing all this so you can better understand how your compressor works and know why its burned up. Because if you don't fix the problem you will be replacing more than one cap. Nice video a bit shaky on camera works. I hope you don't mind the long comment. Just trying to make sure people understand what other parts they might need.
Thank you Jeremy for taking the time to watch the video and all of the fantastic information in your comment.
I really appreciate the great information. :-)
+cecil6711 sure thing. i glad you took the time to make one in the first place. there is a lot of stuff I hate about modern technology. but that said if a person takes the time to watch some videos and read some postings you can kinda tell when it's something to put stock into. or if it helpful or someone speaking from their ass. but that said aside from learning brain surgery there really isn't much you can not learn off RUclips and the net in general. but it really is because of people like your self making the videos. I keep saying now I retired I just going make RUclips videos. I got a couple on some homemade tools but just keep putting off doing more. so thank you. I book marked this I want to go check out a few more of your videos
I am glad you liked it Rich.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for watching buddy.
Sent you a pm for more info on your situation.
Process of elimination, remove v belt, turn it on. Continue misbehaving? electric side is the culprit. If not, then place the v belt back on run to where it would start having issues, stop the compressor, bleed the air and restart if issue reappears at a given psi, say 60 or 80 then, most likely check valve is guilty.
Cool, great info
On single start capacitors like yours there is no polarity.
It will work either way.
I hope this helps. :-)
WHEN SHORTING THE CAPACITOR USE AN INSULATED SCREWDRIVER OR CALL THE PARAMEDICS AS YOU MAY END UP IN A WOODEN BOX THIS IS NOT SOMETHING TO TAKE LIGHTLY
steph wood Very true.
Thank you for the comment and watching the video.
You are welcome,thanks for watching the video.
Thank you cecil for the offer, I may well take you up on that. Yeah I'm alive and well, didn't do too much on the car today, but might do a video in a while :)
I was looking for brushes did not find any but find capacitors one black n one white. I did not know one is for start n one is runner. I found the air compressor motor at the scrap yard n I take home to fix it. it looks good. so am looking around for video how to check ot if it is good. ur video is formative. 10-Q
Usually the wires on each capacitor go on each terminal opposite each other and color doesn't matter as long as you get one wire on each terminal .
It is important however to put the capacitors back on the same wire pairs they came from(left cap back where it came off and right cap back where it came from).
If you need further help,pm me and I will be glad to help. :-)
Just today my 5hp quincy stopped working, with only a loud humming sound and no movement when switched on. Hopefully with your guidance I will solve the problem. Do you think most likely its the start capacitor, as opposed to the centrifugal switch. Thank you Cecil for a well executed tutorial, you certainly make the world a better place!
It does sound like the start capacitor as the centrifugal switch usually sticks in the low speed position (at least in my experience) which would let it start turning but would prevent it from going up to full speed.
You might also want to check to make sure you are getting full voltage to the motor through the pressure switch before purchasing a new start cap.
I hope this helps and thanks for watching the video. :-)
@@cecil6711 Solved the problem today. It was the female connector on capacitor separated from the stud where its riveted. In the past I got a temporary fix by attempting to solder it back on. This time could not solder it back so I drilled into the stud and tried securing connector with a screw. Don't no how long it will last, but working as of five hours ago. Do you have any suggestions how to secure the connector back to the stud where once held by a rivet? I ordered a replacement capacitor, but I enjoy the challenge to to repair it. Anyway thanks for the prompt response and I send my blessings to you and family from New Rochelle N.Y. All the best, Bruce
@@stewartbruce2409 I am glad you figured out the issue Bruce.
Could you possibly use a small machine screw with a nylok nut instead of the screw?
It sounds like you are running out of options on the tab of the capacitor.
I enjoy the challenge of repairing instead of replacing stuff as well but sometimes you only get so many chances before you have to bite the bullet and replace a component.
Good luck and all the best.
Cecil
@@cecil6711 Thank you Cecil, Wishing much health and happiness for you and family this upcoming holiday season.
@@stewartbruce2409 Thanks Bruce. Happy Holidays. :-)
I am glad the video helped you.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the comment.:-)
Catching up on vids. Did it turn out to be the cap? Sometimes that little centrifugal switch can stick. Funny story - drinking with buds on a ski weekend about 10 years ago. Drunk electrical engineer taking apart one of those old disposable cameras. He says "Ya gotta be careful with these things cause even though it's not that big, the cap for the flash can carry a large ZZZAAAAAAAPPP" and he falls backward off his chair going "OW OW OW OW OW!"
Your run cap should not need discharge since it is in series with the coil. I'm surprised your start cap does not have a bleeder resistor. Great video BTW.
You are welcome.
Thank you for watching.
I have recently found you on youtube and I have thoroughly enjoyed the information that I have gleaned. Thank you for all the hours of information and training.
I found your channel on youtube while I was looking for information about run/start capacitors for an Emerson T63xwbss1486 air compressor electric motor. The start capacitor is definitely bad but unfortunately as it seems to happen regularly the housing that holds the capacitor is rubbing on the information printed on the capacitor so i have no idea what value capacitors i'm dealing with. I have attempted to get the information through the vendor and through Home Depot, but they are of no help. Is there a way to figure out the value for the capacitor that I can use.
Thank you very much for your time and any help that you can offer!
Ron Brown
I have the spec plate info if you have a place to upload the pics.
Any other members with info or better yet the same motor would be awsome.
Hi Ron.
Thanks for the kind words and watching my videos.
I was unable to come up with any information on the capacitors for your motor but I will continue to look and reply back if I find anything.
good stuff bud you are a smart man
Good information! THANKS.
awsome vid...very helpful
Thanks Darrin. :-)
It is just info that I picked up working on stuff over the years.
i hope that you can help me i have a compressor that it when I use the air and it needs to refill it sounds like it turns off and on and it takes a while to get it to fill and everything else works after its filled
Thanks for watchng and sipping.lol :-)
Great video! Quick question, i just bought a run and start capacitor for my old coleman powermate black max series. Everytime i turn it on it trips my breaker. Any tips on what to do to stop this?
How can you tell the difference between the run and start capacitor other than their microfared rating? Are their protective covers labeled?
Very informative, thank you.
No I haven't been zapped by one of those but it is about the only thing that hasn't lit me up.lol
I have gotten shocked too many times to count(may explain whats wrong with me). :-P
Thanks for watching.
Hey cecil , have a husky 33 gallon with start and run cap, how can i tell which is which?
Great video buddy!! Awesome info about air compressors!
Hey but quick question for ya. I got a double pull 30 amp breaker running mine, and every so often it kicks the breaker when it goes to start. I reset the the breaker and it will run fine,most time it starts and runs with no problem, but it seams like every 5 start cycles it trips the breaker. Not sure if I have a bad breaker or maybe I'm using to low of a breaker. Any thoughts?
Can the capasitor make it sound like it's going to turn on but blows breaker when I took it apart the capasitor was hot
great info thanks man
Great video, thank you. My motor on my compressor looks identical to in the video but has just one capacitor on top. Would that be a start and run capacitor combined or should I look for another capacitor somewhere?
+buddyboy4x44 Some motors only have 1 capacitor which in my experience is a start capacitor.
Thank you for the question and watching the video. :-)
Big help thank you
That was exelent!
How do I make it rotate the right way my runs backwards?
How much horsepower does this motor have?
I have a 5HP motor on an 80 gallon tank in which the original Run capacitor has been lost.
I have a 25MFD 370V working now but the cover will not go over it and bolt back in place on the motor as its too wide at 2 inches.
Mine has 2 start capacitors and one run capacitor.
I checked the size of the one you have here and its 1-3/4 wide which would fit my cover.
Thank you.
Hey, Good Stuff. Thanx.
The label on my emglo wheelbarrow compressor is damaged do you know what capacitors start and run should I put on it
Some only have a start capacitor and three phase motors don't need capacitors at all.
Each case could be different.
Thank you for watching Dan.
How many horses does that motor have? I’m trying to find out which start capacitor I need
great post, thanks
Hey great video I need to no on my compressor motor has a red and black each side but left side has a narrow white wire where might it go
Hey. Bro. I've got a Sears 3.5 horse power air comp. It hims when I turn the switch on. Can you help me. Thanks
Thanks.
What time is it?lol never mind :-P
Thanks for the comment.
My compressor keeps tripping my breaker when it kicks on. Are my capacitors needing replacement?
I have a baldor 120/240 single phase 3hp that just hums. need help installing new compasitor's i think that's my problem.
motor turns fine, replaced the start capacitor and still just hums...where is the centrifugal switch located?
You can call me about anything you need help with buddy.
I am having a great day.
I hope you are as well.
Thank you for taking the time to watch and to comment. :-)
I just got a really old Sears air compressor from my dad. When plugged in, it just hums.
I removed the capacitor.. It only has 2 terminals like the one on the right (in your video). I found a similar one for sale on amazon. Im gonna order it, but how do I know which wire goes where?
I mean, theres only two possibilities... What would happen if they go on backward?
If the wires and terminals are not marked, it does not matter which wire goes on which terminal.
I hope this helps and thanks for watching the video.
What would cause the start up capacitor to smoke and pop ? I had two mess up already and don't know where to trouble shoot. Air compressor and motor sound fine, but after a few seconds turning it on the capacitor starts to smoke and then trips my breaker.
It could be a couple of things.
First, does the motor have a centrifugal switch on the wired end?
If it does and it is stuck it could be keeping the motor engaged in the start windings and overload them to smoke the capacitor.
Second, remove the belt and try just starting the motor without the compressor to check motor operation without any load on it and see if it comes up to full rpm.
If it starts and runs,then shut it off and replace the drive belt and use an amp meter on the motor power wires to check amp draw with the belt tightened to specifications.
It is also possible the motor bearings could be sticking causing drag on the motor.
I hope this helps.
Thanks for watching the video.
Have this same issue i bought it used it had a cut wire fixed the wire and fired it up blew capacitor instantly noticed the capacitor that was in it was to small got the correct capacitor and it also blew! 😭
I have learned so much(from all of you) that I am happy to give back whenever I can to help my friends in the garage gang.
Thanks for watching.
Have a Devilbiss C5E60VAD-1 with 5 peak hp motor. Motor has a start and a run capacitor. So far I have replaced the in tank check valve and the start capacitor. Still having trouble as follows: If the tank is empty, everything starts and runs normally until the pressure switch turn the motor off. I can stop and start anywhere from zero pressure to cut off pressure and all seems normal. I can come back an hour later and try to start and then the motor bogs down and turns the pump much slower. The unloader valve seems to be working fine. I have removed the unloader tube and checked to make sure it in not obstructed. I can disconnect the 1/2 inch tube that runs from pump discharge to tank check valve and the compressor starts and runs normally. I can then push the tube into the pump discharge and the motor will bog down again. The run capacitor checks good and within the - 6% tolerance. I was wondering if you had run in to any thing like this. Could the motor be getting weak? Run capacitor bad? Something else? I am stumped. Please help.
David Potts I am having the same problem. Did you ever find a solution?
have you drained the condensate out of the tank it could be full of water and causing the compressor to kick off to soon, just a thought
Great info , my compressor starts then trips the breaker but today it ran for around 30seconds then tripped the breaker i guess i might need to change both capasitors ?.I took the belt off and the motor runs fine!
Update my comp has only one capacitor ????
That would be a great idea.
I would also check the oil level in the crankcase.
Thanks for watching.
I phoned the company which sold me the comp and the guy gave me a few things to try , take the belt off and run motor untill it heats up hold a bit of wood against the pully and see if it trips , i did this and it only tripped when i had the motor nearly stalling so i let the motor run for 20 min then i attached the belt and hey ho its running now so one thing he told me was that it might be damp inside and seems it must have been.But i tried to start 3 hrs later and again it tripped the beaker so did the same sinario belt off, run motor and after it heated up it would run again !!!!!
Could this still be the single capacitor? or is the motor on its way out???.
I have a t30 Ingersoll Rand compressor. It was missing a capacitor. So not knowing I took the model number off the one that was still connected and bought another one of the same. The motor has four wires coming from it. The capacitor has four connections. So with the other one I bought there are now eight connections on the two capacitors. But only four wires coming from the motor. How do I connect these wires to the two capacitors. The model number on my motor is 6k757bb. One more thing is both of the capacitors are mounted in the same box. Rite next to each other. I'm only saying this because I seen compressors that have two capacitors but their separate. Located on either side of the motor. Mine are connected within the same housing. So that led me to believe that they were connected to each other. Can u help me? I've exhausted my online searches and can't find anything to help.
If you pay anyything near that much money, you're overpaying for your start capacitors. I buy mine from Burden Sales Surplus Center, where they only cost about 10% that much.
I was told this afternoon that I can use the positive to the negative. Is that possible ? Could I cross post the cables in my capacitor. Thanks
There is no positive or negative on the capacitors so it is not possible.
Most motor capacitors are not marked with the exception of some of the specialty HVAc units which are marked with common and hermetic and possibly fan if the capacitor is a dual unit in a single canister. Thanks for watching the video.
My old capacitor has 2 port cables but the store where I bought the new one has like 4 ports each side , then I just can plug the cables on any of each side thanks brother.
@@guillelea4620 That is correct as long as they are separate terminal blocks from each of the 2 wires.
You are very welcome.
My last question is a 440 vac/B is going to work the same as the 450vac for a 20 gallon compressor? This video help me a lot my friend good video thanks for the right información.
@@guillelea4620 Yes, it should be fine as long as the UF (microfarads) is the same.
I have a capisitoy with three wires on one of them I don't know which terminal s they hook up to
So my compressor starts up and then it goes to trying to pull 26 amps or more then breaker pops. All within a 10 second or less period. Does that sound like run capacitor?
Yes it does.
If your compressor has 2 capacitors it is probably the start capacitor(usually the highest UF rated one).
cecil6711 yeah it’s a weg motor and it has double caps
Odds are I will just order and replace them both. They are 17 years old so they are ready to be swapped
great info.....
What if motor starts to smoke after 2 -5 minutes...what would cause this?? T I A
I would check the amperage draw on the motor as well as the rpm's to make sure the motor was getting up to full revolutions and the amp draw was within the motor ratings.
It is also possible the run capacitor is defective.
Good luck.
Hello! Thank you for the video! I have a different problem. I have what looks like the exact same motor but I have no data plate. I am wanting to convert from 120 VAC to 240 VAC. Is there a diagram on the motor or do you have the make and model numbers? Thanks again Joe
Thank you for watching(with all your thumbs)lol
Have a great day. :-)
Thanks alot Greg. :-)
Man I finally found out whsts wrong with mine tgank you
That's great!!!
I am glad you got it figured out.
Thanks for watching. :-)