Nice review. CPT model is probably synchronous converter and its waterproof too, worth every penny. Using 48V to 12V version for my Offgrid system and doesn't even get warm.
Thanks for running this efficiency test. It is always great to not waste energy, especially when using a limited supply like solar power to generate it. Always look forward to your posts! Take care!
I am thinking the CMT converter was the most efficient because it was made to only convert to 12 volts and not be variable; So they could come up with the perfect circuit design for that single output voltage and that is why it is so efficient compared to the others.
+jimthvac100 yes quite possibly. I guess that's another reason to consider what you're buying when using the energy. A purpose built device, not a jack of all trades unless you specifically need the item to be adjustable. Why power a screen or led if you don't need one etc
Nice review again. Very strange that that winners module, which I also have and like very much, is off that much. Mine was pretty spot on but don't despair, the calibration is on the BG website: To make it easy> Calibration method: Under power off situation, Holdind left button and power the supply,when the display begin flashing, release left button, with multimeter measuring the output voltage, by press the left and right button ,adjust the multimeter measuring voltage near 5V, such as 5.00V ,4.98V or 5.02V is ok too,at this situation,please ignore the displaying on this item. After adjustment,please power off it and then power to it again, then the calibration is completed. Errors can be calibrated in 0.04V, if the error is greater, you can try to calibrate it again.
you welcome Adam , I use the lm2596 for several applications like driving fans meters Leds, or as preregulator for linear powersource, where efficiency is less important. It still is a cheap universal robust little device.
great video, that is the thing to think about, if things are efficient you wont need to buy so many solar panels or pull power from the grid to supplement as much.
I have a larger version of that cpt converter I step down a 36v lifepo4 battery with it same efficiency on the conversion. 250w version 20a. It's my sons scooter battery it doubles for camping power as well since the battery can be cycled so many times. Next step charge the 36v battery with solar in the field. 2 160w panels in series for 24v and the MTP-7210a should do the trick I think.
Glad to hear your's seems to work as well as the model I bought. I like the sound of the multi-fuction scooter come camping power source. Have you seen my most recent video on the CKE boost MPPT solar charger? I think it is probably more efficient that the Minghe 7210A unit.
Great video, again :) I wonder if using the EBD-USB load at 20W would make possible another series of test at a constant load instead of the bulb, and a power supply to test at a constant input wattage; do the results would be different? Thank you sir, really appreciate your work.
+Bernebeer 95.9! Yes, there are other factors but their effect is far smaller than the conversion. I wanted to point out you have to consider efficient use as well as efficient harvest of power.
+Dimitris Zarmakoupis Thank you. Yeah I talked about why I think lithium packs need to be 24 volt in this video: ruclips.net/video/YoH7V56RtkM/видео.html
Adam Welch I have watched that vid and totally follow your logic about getting the li-ion pack in range for the charge controller, however I don’t think that means that 12v packs “don’t work.” I know what you mean though... they “don’t work when trying to optimize charge characteristics for use with solar charge controllers designed for other battery types.”
Adam, Im playing with solar and struggling with a few concepts. Im charging super caps using small solar panels. Im trying to understand how volts and current work when charging the super caps. The caps pull the voltage low when connected and as current flows, the voltage increases. So im guessing that its important to match your load with your input. Julian Ilett did a recent post and I have the same bank as him. So, I was wondering if you had covered this, or could you, in the way that you do, provide your take on whats going on. I feel like i'm missing a key concept here and have the feeling that you will eloquently help me to understand. Thank you Adam
Hi Dean. Yeah a solar panel doesn't hold any charge - and it can comfortably sit at any point in it's power curve. So it's voltage will typically sit just above the voltage of the battery (or capacitor bank) it is connected to. Being just above allows the current to flow from the solar panel into the thing it's connected to. The issue here is that when you connect your panel to the discharged supercaps you're taking your panel miles away from it's sweet spot where the voltage and current multiply to make it's peak watts. So initially the charge will be very slow, but as you've seen as the voltage increases, more power can be created by the panel and therefore more current will flow. Once the supercaps are charged up to a reasonable level - somewhere closer to your panels maximum power point your should see a marked improvement in the current flowing - thing is by this time your supercaps are generally getting full. If you used a battery rather than super capacitors it would reduce the current flowing naturally, however it wouldn't cut off completely - this is the job of the charge controller to prevent overcharging. With Julian covering this recently I'm not keen on doing a video around this topic. It might be a bit too similar. Leave it with me though and if I can come up with another angle I will - after all I've got all the bits already. Cheers
Adam Welch trully, i can't make it. i'm just a kind of stupid person who wanted to learn, but i'm just hoping my comment here could embrace you to make person like me feel helped by your knowledge
Nice review. CPT model is probably synchronous converter and its waterproof too, worth every penny. Using 48V to 12V version for my Offgrid system and doesn't even get warm.
Thanks for running this efficiency test. It is always great to not waste energy, especially when using a limited supply like solar power to generate it. Always look forward to your posts! Take care!
+Bill Younger Thanks Bill :-)
Two 12v lights in series is 100 % efficient! Well from the battery to the lights, but I guess if you only want 1.....
I am thinking the CMT converter was the most efficient because it was made to only convert to 12 volts and not be variable; So they could come up with the perfect circuit design for that single output voltage and that is why it is so efficient compared to the others.
+jimthvac100 yes quite possibly. I guess that's another reason to consider what you're buying when using the energy. A purpose built device, not a jack of all trades unless you specifically need the item to be adjustable. Why power a screen or led if you don't need one etc
Nice video! :)
I always love comparisons between different devices like this.
Especially easy to get devices that are cheap that gets the job done.
+tbbw Thanks. Glad you liked it
Nice one Adam. I have been pondering this very subject.
Example with the maths and formula appreciated
I had forgotten how easy it was to work out👍
+Dean Greenhough Cheers Dean.
Nice video, tha result really suprised me that that potted one came out as the most efficent.
Nice review again. Very strange that that winners module, which I also have and like very much, is off that much. Mine was pretty spot on but don't despair, the calibration is on the BG website: To make it easy>
Calibration method:
Under power off situation, Holdind left button and power the supply,when the display begin flashing, release left button, with multimeter measuring the output voltage, by press the left and right button ,adjust the multimeter measuring voltage near 5V, such as 5.00V ,4.98V or 5.02V is ok too,at this situation,please ignore the displaying on this item. After adjustment,please power off it and then power to it again, then the calibration is completed. Errors can be calibrated in 0.04V, if the error is greater, you can try to calibrate it again.
+Luc Peeters Cheers. I'll check mine.
Really great job, I was going to do that and you saved me a lot of time and money. I prefer 24V system too but we still need the 12v.
Tx for the video. FYI Adam, I have replaced some lm2596 modules with the also low cost XL4015 modules since those have a somewhat better efficiency.
+Ton Bovee Cheers for the tip Ton.
you welcome Adam , I use the lm2596 for several applications like driving fans meters Leds, or as preregulator for linear powersource, where efficiency is less important. It still is a cheap universal robust little device.
Another great video, Adam.
Thank you very much.
great video, that is the thing to think about, if things are efficient you wont need to buy so many solar panels or pull power from the grid to supplement as much.
+SuperBrainAK Exactly. The collection and use should be as efficient as possible.
thanks for the info! I'll switch back to using CBT in future. Cheers
+Paul Kennett I was surprised how efficient it was. Obviously I only tested at my specific requirements but I'm glad it is of help to some.
I'm running 7S also so it's very applicable to my setup. Thanks
+Paul Kennett Yes of cause - might be a little different at different outputs though - hopefully its similar at a good range of its output power.
Very useful and informative video, as always.
I have a larger version of that cpt converter I step down a 36v lifepo4 battery with it same efficiency on the conversion. 250w version 20a. It's my sons scooter battery it doubles for camping power as well since the battery can be cycled so many times. Next step charge the 36v battery with solar in the field. 2 160w panels in series for 24v and the MTP-7210a should do the trick I think.
Glad to hear your's seems to work as well as the model I bought. I like the sound of the multi-fuction scooter come camping power source. Have you seen my most recent video on the CKE boost MPPT solar charger? I think it is probably more efficient that the Minghe 7210A unit.
Great video, again :)
I wonder if using the EBD-USB load at 20W would make possible another series of test at a constant load instead of the bulb, and a power supply to test at a constant input wattage; do the results would be different?
Thank you sir, really appreciate your work.
+cire lefebure the difference in the output in each test was really quite small. It may be worth trying the load I guess.
Good vid!
I think the efficiency might vary depending on the input voltage too?
+James Searle Yes quite. I did say that one was best for me, in that application.
Hi Adam, love your vids! Could you check the converter's input consumption in idle mode/ no load, please?
Nice comparison! +1
+Maxint R&D Thanks.
Can you make a video in which you open up the cpt converter i wanted to what they are using to get that kind of efficiency.
+Electronic projects I kind of want to use it... I'll have a think.
Ok then use it.
+Electronic projects I'll see if I can pick up another one cheaply - although I'm not quite sure how I'll get in without destroying it!
Yes!! it kind of a problem to open it without destroying it.
If you can that would be great.
Love your videos would love of you do the same thing but for boosting ?
what is inside that cpt ?
Probably superfluous but these units are likely more efficient when factoring out jack contact and cable resistance. Still, 95% is excellent.
+Bernebeer 95.9! Yes, there are other factors but their effect is far smaller than the conversion. I wanted to point out you have to consider efficient use as well as efficient harvest of power.
What are you using for your pack ?
I'm working on building a pack made from a series of 6s packs and i'll be giving each one a protection circuit.
+MiggyManMike It's a 7s4p of recycled laptop 18650s. All Samsung cells which seem to be working well together. Best of luck with your project.
thought it was BUCK converter and not BOOK converter :-P good video
I think you got the gist! :-)
Nice job! You state that you chose a 24v pack because you “don’t think 12v packs work.” What did you mean by that statement ?
+Dimitris Zarmakoupis Thank you. Yeah I talked about why I think lithium packs need to be 24 volt in this video: ruclips.net/video/YoH7V56RtkM/видео.html
Adam Welch I have watched that vid and totally follow your logic about getting the li-ion pack in range for the charge controller, however I don’t think that means that 12v packs “don’t work.” I know what you mean though... they “don’t work when trying to optimize charge characteristics for use with solar charge controllers designed for other battery types.”
Adam, Im playing with solar and struggling with a few concepts. Im charging super caps using small solar panels. Im trying to understand how volts and current work when charging the super caps. The caps pull the voltage low when connected and as current flows, the voltage increases. So im guessing that its important to match your load with your input. Julian Ilett did a recent post and I have the same bank as him.
So, I was wondering if you had covered this, or could you, in the way that you do, provide your take on whats going on. I feel like i'm missing a key concept here and have the feeling that you will eloquently help me to understand.
Thank you Adam
Hi Dean.
Yeah a solar panel doesn't hold any charge - and it can comfortably sit at any point in it's power curve. So it's voltage will typically sit just above the voltage of the battery (or capacitor bank) it is connected to. Being just above allows the current to flow from the solar panel into the thing it's connected to.
The issue here is that when you connect your panel to the discharged supercaps you're taking your panel miles away from it's sweet spot where the voltage and current multiply to make it's peak watts. So initially the charge will be very slow, but as you've seen as the voltage increases, more power can be created by the panel and therefore more current will flow. Once the supercaps are charged up to a reasonable level - somewhere closer to your panels maximum power point your should see a marked improvement in the current flowing - thing is by this time your supercaps are generally getting full. If you used a battery rather than super capacitors it would reduce the current flowing naturally, however it wouldn't cut off completely - this is the job of the charge controller to prevent overcharging.
With Julian covering this recently I'm not keen on doing a video around this topic. It might be a bit too similar. Leave it with me though and if I can come up with another angle I will - after all I've got all the bits already.
Cheers
Adam Welch many thanks for your informative reply. All makes sense. Thank you for your time 😀
can't see what the meter show, only trusting what you said in the video without showing the numbers on the meter
Sorry the lighting wasn't perfect for this - I think you can make out most of the detail though.
Adam Welch
trully, i can't make it. i'm just a kind of stupid person who wanted to learn, but i'm just hoping my comment here could embrace you to make person like me feel helped by your knowledge
+Kodox Tea As I said I'm sorry if it doesn't come out for you - I'll try to make it more clear next time.
Heh sometimes you can check efficiency by just putting your finger on the device.