@RedHammerBodyShop '91 302 five liter can the regulator get so bad as to hardly run the car or not at all ? ,,, It's not the ignition runs fine on starting fluid ,,, !
@600wheel , or ? ,,, fuel pump is running , had 40 pounds , now zero . Is a regulator causing this ,,, ? Pump running , filter clean , zero at rail ,,, ?
Coolant temperature sensor. I had a very similar problem. It was a cheap coolant temperature sensor I had bought. Replaced it with better brand and fixed the hot start problem. Try this. Let it warm up. Unplug the coolant temperature sensor. Try to start it again. If it starts, that's probably the problem.
I had an issue rack in April where the car would die randomly while driving. I first thought it was the ignition switch but it turned out to be a bad PIP. I replaced the whole distributor and TFI in April so I hope that’s not part of the issue now. I did swap the Dyna Mod TFI with a Motorcraft spare I gave and that didn’t fix this no-start issue. I’m still searching for the culprit.
@@thefoxlife3431 5 years ago I had same issue. Finally replaced the Dizzy with Performance Distributor Hot Forge unit. Was issue free for a year. Then I started going thru TFI modules. Finally pulled my fairly new expensive dizzy out, inspected, found the stator was burnt up. Got pissed and got a new dizzy from Autozone. Lifetime warranty. It lasted 2 years before that TFI, which came new on the dizzy, went bad. They would only warranty the entire dizzy. So I swapped that out with another new one. Now it’s been about 16 months. Needless to say I keep extra TFI’s in the car and can change them out on the side of the road fairly quickly lol. Hope you figure it out. Seems like all new parts these days are crap and it would not surprise me if one of your new(er) parts is bad.
I have had an A9L Rebuild from a computer company.had a success with 1 out 3 ECU. The other 2 ECUs ....2nd was "Hot no start and left stranded for half HR "then restarted acted like it was flooded but finally got home.last ECU fuel pump constantly running."All A9L" Good luck. Oh all were there for a compasiter replacement.he absolutely insured me they were same exact compasiter were exchanged..... Confirmed just now left my brother stranded and swaped computers started right up . Today this happen after we got it home .u4p0 ECU auto 94 V8 steady idle but have not drove it.reved it.. it sounded more responsive don't see how
The TFI module, thick film ignition module. Mounts to the distributor. Need a thin wall socket to get 2 bolts out. Some later models and F150 were fender mounted in a heatsink. Once they get warm it cuts off the spark. When you buy one make sure you ask if you can get a replacement if it doesn't work. Might go through 3 to get a good one and they will test fine unless hot.
I do have 24lb injectors and a 155lph pump. I eventually replaced the pump with a 190lph because I thought the check valve was bad but I still have the fuel pressure loss after I replaced it.
I had a similar issue with my fox coupe. The culprit ended up being the ignition solenoid. I had remote mounted it and I guess it just couldn’t function right when it got hot. I re-wired it with heavier gauge wiring and a beefy ground strap. That fixed it
@@thefoxlife3431 I have watched all of video you posted and I'm still losted so who knows..... You sure you cylinders are not ring washed by the fuel that was coming in..... Well I'm bout to watch your videos and see if I missed something
Honestly I'd check the ECU before I did anything else. Make sure the caps aren't smoked on the board. They'll cause all kinds of problems that will make you think it's something it's not.
The ECU can definitely cause a lot of weird fuel issues. I had mine rebuilt and bench tested by FoxResto back in March. I think I’m looking for something else, I just don’t know what yet.
@@thefoxlife3431 Well that's good. They just recapped mine last week. I tell you what gotta love to hate these old Fords sometimes lol. Hope you get it figured out.
Change your ECT sensor, Mine used to do that when my wife was pregnant… lol We would go to the store, come out no start, just cranking, unplugged the sensor and would fire up, sometimes I had to hold it wot while cranking and she fire off Soon I changed the sensor problem gone.. Sensor on the intake manifold, Makes the car think it’s over heated..
It comes with the scanner. The long harness is an additional purchase but not required. I just like being able to hook it up snd take the scanner into the car with me.
Mine too.... ATC sensor, pump ignition time a little more... Check fuel pressure reg,... Fuel injector cleaner in tank, wait for proper temp operation... Became better.... From Pnama😂😂
I was having this issue after a similar build on my 95 mustang gt. I thought i knew how to use a timing gun... had it advanced 20⁰ btc. After putting at 12⁰ this time and adjusting my idle. Problem was gone. I will admit, seen your part 3 video and my iac doesn't change idle when unplugged. That does bother me, just haven't looked into it yet.
So the video that @Brew2l has on his RUclips page is titled "I lost sleep over this little coupe" with the red coupon Chrome Cobra Wheels as the thumbnail it was back in October of 2019 if you scroll through his list of videos if you're still have an iac problem anyhow waiting for your next new video to drop to see what's up love the car it's Bad ass 👀😈💯
I guess it could be the TPS but I’ve tried two different new modules and had no luck. It really throws a wrench in things when you have to question if new parts are actually good these days.
Yeah, I did replace the FPR because it had a small tear in the diaphragm. That fixed the rich condition but didn’t fix the loss of fuel pressure when I shut the car off. I made another video about that problem.
Question did You pull the spout jumper when You checked the timing ? Hopefully You can get it figured out ! Best Wishes & Good Luck 🇺🇸 🇵🇷🦊👍 P/S check the air temperature sensor in the intake manifold.
Thanks for the note. I did pull the spout and verified timing was at 12 degrees. I’ve also changed the air temp sensor and coolant temp sensor with no luck. Since the video, I also smoke checked for vacuum leaks but didn’t find any.
@@thefoxlife3431ave You been able to figure out what the problem with Your 🦊 is ? 🇺🇸🇵🇷🦊👍 P/S I would be very interested in knowing what You found out . Thank You .
Good catch. It’s part of another video I attempted. If you search for a Saleen cruise control bracket on EBay, you should find it. It’s meant to stay on the wheel but I modified it to work with a quick disconnect hub.
I’m not sure which part are you looking for? The NRG wheel adapter and quick release hub came from Amazon. The Saleen cruise control bracket can be purchased on EBay or LMR.
Yeah, I had a different issue, with the car shutting off while driving, a few months ago. I replaced the ground strap between the head and firewall, cleaned the strap on the injector harness to the head, added an additional strap from the passenger motor mount to frame and checked the battery to block cable. I’m well grounded🤣. That issue ended up being a bad PIP sensor in the 36 yr old distributor.
It’s the Sparco 015TRGL1TUV Leather Steering Wheel. I wanted a flat bottom wheel but not with suede. That’s why I went with this instead of the Ford branded one.
BASE IDLE RESET check voltage .Search these words u will fix the problem.If that dont fix it . I would message BREW2L here on RUclips him and neo mustangs know these cars well. IM 80% sure u need a BASE IDLE RESET though . Plenty of vids here on youtube that explain it and show how to do it .
Yeah, I think that fixes these issues most of the time but I’ve done the BIR several times and it hasn’t helped my issue. At this point, I’ve triple checked my timing, idle without the IAC, TPS voltage and ran a base idle reset. This is still a mystery.
Yeah, I tried another TFI and an IAC off-camera and it didn’t help. I replaced the regulator but I’m still loosing fuel pressure. I’m thinking it may be my fuel pump.
Ignition module
Mine was doing the same thing. Changed the distributor and it fixed it
@RedHammerBodyShop '91 302 five liter can the regulator get so bad as to hardly run the car or not at all ? ,,, It's not the ignition runs fine on starting fluid ,,, !
I got the same issue glad I came across this video
@600wheel , or ? ,,, fuel pump is running , had 40 pounds , now zero . Is a regulator causing this ,,, ? Pump running , filter clean , zero at rail ,,, ?
Maybe the TFS module on the dist
Coolant temperature sensor. I had a very similar problem. It was a cheap coolant temperature sensor I had bought. Replaced it with better brand and fixed the hot start problem.
Try this. Let it warm up. Unplug the coolant temperature sensor. Try to start it again. If it starts, that's probably the problem.
Thanks for sharing. I’ll try that today. 🤞
The TFI module, more than likely.
If TFI doesn’t fix then the PIP in the distributor is bad. Replace dizzy. The PIP gets hot, fails
I had an issue rack in April where the car would die randomly while driving. I first thought it was the ignition switch but it turned out to be a bad PIP. I replaced the whole distributor and TFI in April so I hope that’s not part of the issue now. I did swap the Dyna Mod TFI with a Motorcraft spare I gave and that didn’t fix this no-start issue. I’m still searching for the culprit.
@@thefoxlife3431
5 years ago I had same issue. Finally replaced the Dizzy with Performance Distributor Hot Forge unit. Was issue free for a year. Then I started going thru TFI modules. Finally pulled my fairly new expensive dizzy out, inspected, found the stator was burnt up. Got pissed and got a new dizzy from Autozone. Lifetime warranty. It lasted 2 years before that TFI, which came new on the dizzy, went bad.
They would only warranty the entire dizzy. So I swapped that out with another new one. Now it’s been about 16 months.
Needless to say I keep extra TFI’s in the car and can change them out on the side of the road fairly quickly lol.
Hope you figure it out. Seems like all new parts these days are crap and it would not surprise me if one of your new(er) parts is bad.
I have had an A9L Rebuild from a computer company.had a success with 1 out 3 ECU. The other 2 ECUs ....2nd was "Hot no start and left stranded for half HR "then restarted acted like it was flooded but finally got home.last ECU fuel pump constantly running."All A9L" Good luck. Oh all were there for a compasiter replacement.he absolutely insured me they were same exact compasiter were exchanged..... Confirmed just now left my brother stranded and swaped computers started right up . Today this happen after we got it home .u4p0 ECU auto 94 V8 steady idle but have not drove it.reved it.. it sounded more responsive don't see how
The TFI module, thick film ignition module. Mounts to the distributor. Need a thin wall socket to get 2 bolts out. Some later models and F150 were fender mounted in a heatsink. Once they get warm it cuts off the spark. When you buy one make sure you ask if you can get a replacement if it doesn't work. Might go through 3 to get a good one and they will test fine unless hot.
also change your oil because when fuel pressure regulator goes bad it dumps so much fuel it ends up in oil too
Got you brother 🔧🚗🦊💪🇺🇸💯
Change the distributor..
Change out the act sensor is located on the drivers side behind the coolant temp sending unit
I have replaced that already. I initially thought it was either the ACT or ECT but neither ended up being the issue.
also when you mod out engine make sure you have big enough fuel pump and injectors to handle mods
I do have 24lb injectors and a 155lph pump. I eventually replaced the pump with a 190lph because I thought the check valve was bad but I still have the fuel pressure loss after I replaced it.
I had a similar issue with my fox coupe. The culprit ended up being the ignition solenoid. I had remote mounted it and I guess it just couldn’t function right when it got hot. I re-wired it with heavier gauge wiring and a beefy ground strap. That fixed it
I didn’t think of that. I may have to take a look. It is in my drivers side fender well and has been there a few years.
Is it on the driver's fender well
Factory location is inside the engine bay and on the drivers fender. Mine has been wire tucked so it’s inside the fender now.
@@thefoxlife3431 what it the solenoid for your solution tho..... My brain fried and I'm ready to sell my car
I haven’t had time to swap it and see. I’m doubtful it will be the issue since it would likely keep a car from starting all together.
What ended up being the problem im having this exact same issue but in my case im dumping fuel as well
To be honest, I haven’t figured it out yet. I’ve got 5 videos to walk through everything I’ve done to investigate but I haven’t found the root cause.
@@thefoxlife3431 I have watched all of video you posted and I'm still losted so who knows..... You sure you cylinders are not ring washed by the fuel that was coming in..... Well I'm bout to watch your videos and see if I missed something
Honestly I'd check the ECU before I did anything else. Make sure the caps aren't smoked on the board. They'll cause all kinds of problems that will make you think it's something it's not.
The ECU can definitely cause a lot of weird fuel issues. I had mine rebuilt and bench tested by FoxResto back in March. I think I’m looking for something else, I just don’t know what yet.
@@thefoxlife3431 Well that's good. They just recapped mine last week. I tell you what gotta love to hate these old Fords sometimes lol. Hope you get it figured out.
Change your ECT sensor,
Mine used to do that when my wife was pregnant… lol
We would go to the store, come out no start, just cranking, unplugged the sensor and would fire up, sometimes I had to hold it wot while cranking and she fire off
Soon I changed the sensor problem gone..
Sensor on the intake manifold,
Makes the car think it’s over heated..
What is the name of that code book?? Or does it come with the scanner??Thanks
It comes with the scanner. The long harness is an additional purchase but not required. I just like being able to hook it up snd take the scanner into the car with me.
ignition module on the distributor is failing had the same problem years ago
Prior to this video I had tried two different TFI modules, a different TPS, and a new IAC. I even changed the coil. It’s still a mystery.
Mine too.... ATC sensor, pump ignition time a little more... Check fuel pressure reg,... Fuel injector cleaner in tank, wait for proper temp operation... Became better.... From Pnama😂😂
Thanks for watching. I hope you get yours figured out. Mine ended up being an overheating issue with the computer.
Coolant temp sensor
Yeah, I thought the same thing and I did replace it but that didn’t help.
One of my alternator wires came loose on the stud after I replaced it with the higher amp alternator. Couldn’t hurt to check with all the vibration
I was having this issue after a similar build on my 95 mustang gt. I thought i knew how to use a timing gun... had it advanced 20⁰ btc. After putting at 12⁰ this time and adjusting my idle. Problem was gone. I will admit, seen your part 3 video and my iac doesn't change idle when unplugged. That does bother me, just haven't looked into it yet.
Sometimes when that ignition switch is trying to go out it will start doing weird stuff like that.
So the video that @Brew2l has on his RUclips page is titled "I lost sleep over this little coupe" with the red coupon Chrome Cobra Wheels as the thumbnail it was back in October of 2019 if you scroll through his list of videos if you're still have an iac problem anyhow waiting for your next new video to drop to see what's up love the car it's Bad ass 👀😈💯
Thanks for the info. I’ll check it out. I’m pretty sure it’s not the IAC at this point but I’m still searching for the issue.
Tfi module, replace that had the same problem….
I guess it could be the TPS but I’ve tried two different new modules and had no luck. It really throws a wrench in things when you have to question if new parts are actually good these days.
you need fuel pressure regulator i knew you had fuel problem i used to work on fords from 80s too 2006 models at ford dealer
Yeah, I did replace the FPR because it had a small tear in the diaphragm. That fixed the rich condition but didn’t fix the loss of fuel pressure when I shut the car off. I made another video about that problem.
Question did You pull the spout jumper when You checked the timing ? Hopefully
You can get it figured out ! Best Wishes & Good Luck 🇺🇸 🇵🇷🦊👍 P/S check the air temperature sensor in the intake manifold.
Thanks for the note. I did pull the spout and verified timing was at 12 degrees. I’ve also changed the air temp sensor and coolant temp sensor with no luck. Since the video, I also smoke checked for vacuum leaks but didn’t find any.
@@thefoxlife3431ave You been able to figure out what the problem with Your 🦊 is ?
🇺🇸🇵🇷🦊👍 P/S I would be very interested in knowing what You found out . Thank You .
Burned trace on the ECU will cause that very issue.
Gotta ask where did you get the cruise control switch adapter
Good catch. It’s part of another video I attempted. If you search for a Saleen cruise control bracket on EBay, you should find it. It’s meant to stay on the wheel but I modified it to work with a quick disconnect hub.
Hi there, can I ask you where you get the steering wheel attachment from you have the website link it looks very nice thank you…
I’m not sure which part are you looking for? The NRG wheel adapter and quick release hub came from Amazon. The Saleen cruise control bracket can be purchased on EBay or LMR.
Also check the block ground on the back of the heads intake area it causes the ignition module to over heat real quick due to resistance
Yeah, I had a different issue, with the car shutting off while driving, a few months ago. I replaced the ground strap between the head and firewall, cleaned the strap on the injector harness to the head, added an additional strap from the passenger motor mount to frame and checked the battery to block cable. I’m well grounded🤣. That issue ended up being a bad PIP sensor in the 36 yr old distributor.
where did you get that code reader from?
I got the reader and the extension cable from amazon
Coil
What steering wheel are you using
It’s the Sparco 015TRGL1TUV Leather Steering Wheel. I wanted a flat bottom wheel but not with suede. That’s why I went with this instead of the Ford branded one.
BASE IDLE RESET check voltage .Search these words u will fix the problem.If that dont fix it . I would message BREW2L here on RUclips him and neo mustangs know these cars well. IM 80% sure u need a BASE IDLE RESET though . Plenty of vids here on youtube that explain it and show how to do it .
Yeah, I think that fixes these issues most of the time but I’ve done the BIR several times and it hasn’t helped my issue. At this point, I’ve triple checked my timing, idle without the IAC, TPS voltage and ran a base idle reset. This is still a mystery.
Chk the distributor..
🤔🚫🧢💯💪🏼😈🦊🚐☁️🎬😈😈
Have you found the problem since the video?
Not yet but I know a few more things that aren’t the issue. Another update will coming out this weekend.
@@thefoxlife3431 im having same issue , didn’t start having the issue until i pulled intake off and did lifters
Egr
Good idea but in my case the EGR system has been removed for many years. I’m still looking for the issue.
Replace fuel pressure regulator before you go any further.
Yeah, I tried another TFI and an IAC off-camera and it didn’t help. I replaced the regulator but I’m still loosing fuel pressure. I’m thinking it may be my fuel pump.
@@thefoxlife3431 yeah but that won't make it not run correctly. Just hard to start for a second. It may be your computer.
Tfi
TFI module