Replacing the valve stem seals | SRT-4 | Without removing the head.
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- Опубликовано: 7 апр 2021
- Replacing the valve stem seals of my SRT-4 project without removing the head.
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Great Job
This doesn’t seem too hard thanks for the vid
Thanks for watching. 👍🏼
Nice.... bro never seen it done that way
I read what led you to replacing the valve seals, i also have small puffs of smoke on start up and idling, but also failed compression and leak down test. The leakdown test had air coming out both my throttle body and the exhaust. I was thinking valve seals but a buddy suggested it could also be the valve seat which would require taking the head off. There was oil in the exhaust housing and downpipe along with oil in my intake manifold. In this situation do you think replacing the valve seals would be good enough or should i rip the head of..
Failed compression & leakdown test with what you are describing means that you will need to remove the head. It can be bad valves, bent valves, bad valve seats etc. The oil on the exhaust housing and intake can be a lot of things, assuming that you have an oil catch can and a check valve installed it can be bad rings, cracked ringlands, cracked pistons, cracked rings, stuck rings, bad cylinder head gasket, bad valve guides and stem seals. At that stage changing the valve stem seals will not help.
You wouldn't happen to have a link to where I can get that spring compressor from? Great vid!
Thanks! Sorry I bought it years ago for my work and I don’t have a link. But it is a valve spring compressor for a 4G63 engine, you can find them online.
1:17 those are grounds?
Awesome vid, this will be my next project. What's the tork spec for the cams sleeves? Thanks in advance!
Thanks! 👊🏼 The camshaft bearing caps? 20.65 foot pounds.
@@Bonzorello thanks a lot!💪💪👍
Good info. What’s the tool part number if you can
Valve spring compressor is for a 4G63 engine and the valve seal removal and install kit is the Rockwood #31487.
Does this also work with a regular Plymouth neon? I have a 2001 Plymouth neon and I need to replace the valve stem seals and I'm wondering if this is similar or basically the same exact thing I know the type of engine you have is a souped-up version of the Plymouth neon I'm just wondering if the valves and stuff are similar enough to where I can use this as reference to do the same exact thing without removing the head and stuff.
Also just curious but what is the rope for?
If you are going to replace the valve stem seals it’s the same thing that i’m doing in the video. I fill the cylinder with the rope to keep the valves in place and prevent them from falling. You can also use compressed air, but, if for some reason your compressor fail you can end up with a valve falling. In 25+ years I never have had a single issue using the rope trick, I recommend using the rope. I used a 4G63 valve spring compressor but you can also use a MD998772B/ MD998772A valve spring compressor. To change the valve stem seals I used a Rockwood 11pc valve seal removal & installation set #31487. If you never had done it, be sure to know every detail and to know what you are doing because you will be working with timing components and small parts like spring retainers etc.
@@Bonzorello thank you very much for that detailed information yes I have before but only with the heads off on old Chevrolets with 350s and 427 and 327 engines but now I don't have the luxury of a shop to work in.
Also what type of valve stem seal kit would you recommend? Could you maybe post a link I know that they're not very expensive I've seen them anywhere from $18 to about 35 but I figure being that you have a high performance version of neon (that I totally wish I had one of my own) I figure you could give me some trustworthy insight
No problem! Good luck with the job.
Always grease your forcing tool. Makes it last a long time
Did you use compressed air aswell or just find tdc At each. Also how do you reinstall all the cams and cam gears and make sure your in time?
I do not use compressed air because I don’t want the risk of being in the middle of a job and suddenly the power going out or something happens to the lines or compressor and losing the compressed air. Before removing everything you rotate the crank until everything is aligned, (cam timing and crank). Then remove timing belt , cams etc do the job and reinstall the cams aligned on time by hand and then put them on time with the timing belt and crank, #1 tdc and in compression stroke. Hope that helps.
@@Bonzorello thanks for quick reply. new to these 4cyl. alot simpler than i thought been watching quite a few videos got a good understanding of it now.
No problem!! Good luck doing the job. 👍🏼
Papo, que size rope usaste?
What led you to only replace valve stem seals?
The valve stem seals were worn, oil was leaking through them. The valves looked wet with oil after using the car and letting it sit. When starting it cold you could see a small puff of smoke and began to consume a little more oil than normal. It passed the compression test and the leakdown test. Also no excessive valve play. After removing the old valve stem seals I noted that they were hard and brittle not all of them though.
@@Bonzorello that's exactly what I'm experiencing. My compression was 160, 164, 160, 154. Leak down was 15%, 11%, 5%, 13%. I'm burning a decent amount of oil though.
Do you have an oil catch can and a check valve on the PCV line? The PCV is good? Do you see oil on top of your pistons? Oil on the valves? (You can check that, remove the fuel rail and look for oil in your intake valves.) Do you see smoke? What oil weight are you using?
@@Bonzorello yup dual catch can and check valve to throttle body. Pcv is good. Even tried the supra pcv. There is oil on too of both. There is a good bit of smoke on cold startups. One time I left the car idling for about 20 minutes. Turned it off and turned on about 20 minutes later and got a huge puff of smoke. I've always used 5w30. Oil was always clean. When the oil consumption started, my oil got very dirty. Fresh oil gets dark after one drive now.
Check the turbo for oil on the exhaust side and intake side. I rebuilded an srt engine with your symptoms, good compression numbers etc. But smoking, high oil consumption and oil getting dark fast. After removing everything it has a cracked second compression ring and cracked oil control rings.
Where did you get that tube/sleeve you used at 7:05?
It’s a valve seal installer. You can bought it on a kit or the tool alone.
@@Bonzorello can u post a link of the tool you used to remove the spring
I've tried several and none worked yet.
I don’t have a link but it’s a valve spring remover for 4G63/64 cylinder heads.
@@Bonzorello thanks
No prob.