I have complete another video on weathering DAK tanks -- this time a Panzer III -- showing some different effects, such as no oil paints. It's a little more simple in terms of finish but I think it still looks great. Check it out here: ruclips.net/video/wT3B0JqyC-Y/видео.html
The final result is very convincing. Thank you for the step by step process. Its always interesting to see how other modelers achieve their final product.
Howdy. First of all, I'm a model railroader. When I want to portray rust, I use REAL rust. I make my own real rust. First I put approx. 2 rolls of 0000 fine steel wool into a quart jar. I then add enough white vinegar to cover the steel wool and sit the jar in a window that gets a lot of sun (in my case it's the kitchen window). I usually leave it for about 2 months or until most of the steel wool is dissolved into the vinegar (sometimes takes longer) and give the jar a shake once in a while. After most of the steel wool is dissolved I pour the mixture into a square or rectangle glass baking dish and put the dish in my closet for about 2 weeks or until the vinegar is dried completely. I then use a single edge razor blade scraper and chop up the rust mixture into a very fine powder. I usually store the rust powder in little snuff cans or tins of the same size. When I want to use the rust on a railroad car (or whatever) I take several scoops of rust powder and mix it with some isopropyl alcohol and equal part of Elmer's glue and add a few drops of water soluble glycerin. I make it up as a wash if I want the plastic to look like metal, but mix it kinda like paint if I want to use it as rust spots. It works very well and is REAL rust. Everyone who has seen my models remarks about how real the plastic looks like metal and how real the rust is.
This video was PHENOMENAL. I’ve never seen anyone go from bare model to complete weathering, paneling, etc in a single video. Well done, sir! I’ve just subbed as the quality of your videos is insanely high! The video, editing, cut scenes, narration; it’s all perfect. This is better than broadcast TV. I just wanted to say thanks for sharing and please, keep up the good work!
I once read that in the beginning stages or perhaps that later stages of the war in the desert that the DAK didn't bother to paint the lower hull the sand camouflage color. They left that up to mother nature and tons of desert dust to do the job. Especially in the area of the tracks and behind the road wheels. If true it sort of makes sense for conserving both paint and time. This particular tutorial was very informative and fun to watch. I've been modeling for well over 40 yrs. It's always fun to learn something new. You did a great job with this one.
You deserve so many more subs man, you tutorials are really in depth and informative and the videos are really well edited with decent background music which doesnt overpower you voice. so glad i found your channel
Your videos have gotten me back into modeling. I haven't done it for 35 years but you have inspired me!!! Your videos are the best I have seen on line. Good Job!!!
Invaluable information in these 1 hr long tutorials -- everything from simple decal applications to base coat and gloss painting was worthwhile. I returned to model building after about a 30 year hiatus. I wish I'd known even just a small fraction of all this info back then. Thanks!
I've been away from this stuff for a while, and was kinda afraid the next kits I make might suck.... :) I'm so glad I found your tutorials! they embolden me to improve, but not be paralyzed with fear of imperfection. Great vids! Great instruction ( without schilling )
This has actually given me ideas in an unrelated way. I have a similar old Tamiya Pz.II built many years ago that is far too dark grey once cleared for decals. It may become a candidate for a desert scheme over the top or perhaps a well-worn winter finish.
I very much appreciate your video. As a novice airbrusher, you have managed to give me the advice on mixing paint that I needed. My early attempts had the wrong paint mix, so we’re very wet and did not achieve the effect I wanted. I am attempting to now start weathering using the advice you have given in the video. Well done - keep those videos coming.
Fantastic realistic weathering and finishing; straight out of the hot, dusty campaign in Libya. I'm new to the hobby and the DAK is what I've always found most interesting. Your tank is how I imagine armour should look like from Northern Africa. Great work!
@@Panzermeister36 I am a bit perplexed about the order that you glue your parts...dont the paint interfere with the bond?and how do you deal with glue possibly messing up the paint?
+ScipionLaurentiend I use cement for assembling the model parts when they are unpainted. I only use super glue if the parts are painted or if they are metal parts.
Hey brother I love your painting techniques as so many modelers go the flat black base then they air brush white in panels then the base color is sprayed! You are doing very good and inspirational!
Straight forward run through,using a little to make so much.!.Excellent build,painting and effects..Be watching this for reference a good few times..Thanks for a Great video and all the best from Blighty🇬🇧🇺🇸👍
This tutorials are my side-by-side companions during my builds. You are a genius. U should upload more of this like weathering olve drab or diferent types of cammo. Kepp getting better thanks to you
+Luis Boni thank you! I'm glad you engoy them. And yes, I will be featuring more colours of tanks in the future, once I have the time to make another big video like this.
I've watched all three of these videos and it's inspired me to pick up scale modelling again. When I finish painting my Bolt Action stuff I'm going to pick up a kit and go for it
Man, that's a long video there! But every minute is full of informative details and well worth the time. I find your tips simple with realistic results and your camera angles are the best. Thank you for making the video and sharing your knowledge with us. I would rate this how-to video one of the best in RUclips.
Best hour I've spent this weekend, very informative just what I needed in order to finish my panzer 3 except mine is the Tamiya version . brilliant work learned alot many thanks....
One freshly painted, factory new Panzer vs one weathering boi. Nicely done! I really have no time at all for models at the moment but once i do, i know i´m gonna at least try the hairspray chipping and the pin wash you show here. Small steps! Thank you for all those vids. Way to go!
Great work as always! Your weathering series is exactly what I, and I’m sure a lot of people, are looking for. One small request, i really struggle with colors so it’s great when you provide the mixtures. I know that’s a tough request when you blend them by eye, but it is appreciated. Keep them coming!
I guess you have covered all a beginner might need. Looks amazing with straightforward tuition, if any of my model vehicles look half as good I will be happy, thanks!!
M8! WOW! I've been playing Warhammer 40k for at least 10 years and i habe seen many Model tank (including my own Imperial vehicels) but i've never seen such a work on the tabel from other Hobby players.... Respect! BTW. Heres your Popcorn! Enjoy it ^.-
Just watched this video again. Spectacular detail. One small criticism, the divisional marking is inaccurate. When 5 Pz. Regt. shipped out for Tripoli to form up with other units into 5 Light Div. they wore the 3 Pz. Div. marking on grey paint . Arriving in North Africa Feb-March 1941 they were repainted an overall sand colour obscuring the 3 Pz. Div. marks. On 15 Aug 1941, 5 Light Div. was renamed 21 Pz. Div. and the new divisional mark was applied, on the desert camouflage.
Cheers for the input Alex. At the time I did not do much research into markings so it's partially based on photos and partially made up. Nowadays I do much more research 😁 I have another Pz I A that I may do in a DAK scheme in which case I'll get it right. Thanks!
I do similar to this method for 3d model textures....applying camo etc then using an eraser tool set to certain opacities removing areas of paint where it would be chipped etc like panels and edges etc...top job on the PzKw1 looks really good.excellent 57:51 could be the real thing
Another incredible tutorial Evan! I enjoy the pin wash and oil fading techniques that really start to breath life into a model tank. Keep up the great work! Cheers!
I used a Dragon Panzer I Ausf.A kit. Dragon makes an actual Africa Korps version of the kit, but I had to use another kit and then modified it to this standard.
Well done!! Looks really good and you really walk guys through every step and sprinkle in some history and reference along the way. You're correct- as far as I've been able to find - exterior fire extinguishers were the same color as the base tank. That being said at some point along the way, interior fire extinguishers were red in crew compartments. So even though something like a 251 half track has the interior painted to match the exterior base color, I believe that is the exception where the interior/crew accessable fire extinguishers are correct in red. I know that was just a little footnote in your hour long video- but I've seen waaay too many excellent models with red extinguishers on the fenders...
Hello Jerry. Yeah I forgot to film when I painted the tracks. Really all I did was paint them dark brown with the airbrush and then I gave them the same pigments as the rest of the wheels and hull.
Really really beautiful job. I have two comments but please don't take them as shots against you. I'm just not sure if this applicable for Pz.1 but I would have liked to have seen some demarcation between wheel and rubber, (if Pz.1 had rubber on wheels). Just a slight color change if you find it appropriate. Perhaps drilling out MGs? This is a great rendering of a DAK vehicle. One of the best I have seen.
Yeah, I should have gotten some metal MG barrels for this. That's a major weak point in the kit. As for the rubber, I see your point, but the panzer grey is usually dark enough in photos that it appears the same colour as rubber tyres. I don't think it would be wrong to make some visual difference there, though.
Another superb finish Panzermeister, I love the weathered sand camo effect you have depicted. I know you're a fan of Mike Rinaldi, and I've got say the finish you achieved on this little beauty is up there with what I've seen Mike produce in his Tank Art books. I've also got to mention the fantastic production values you are providing for these videos.
Outstanding effects... I would only say that the rubber road wheels are very pristine compared to the rest of the tank. The rubber treads would pick up dents, nicks and wear.. and some would be new and others older, so they shouldn’t be uniformly worn. Also you’ll see exhaust shields rust at different rates .. not for any reason other than they could have been made at different times and if different quality steel... but don’t overdo it. Yours look pretty good as they are.
Very well done Evan. The chipping and weathering was very realistic and I think overall you have a very nice piece. I know how much work it takes to make one of these videos as I just finished editing my first video. So congrats on all your hard work!
Mixing Windex with water makes a misplaced decal lift easier and keeps it moveable alot longer than just water... Automotive paint and decal technique, but I'd think it would work on plastic too
I’m sure someone has already said this but mount the model on something or wear gloves to keep finger oils off the plastic so it doesn’t do anything weird when applied
Thank you Mitko. Like I said in the video, I would have much rather preferred to use your masks for the numbers but that wasn't a possibility...next time I will use them though; they are the best!
I am thinking maybe 1/16th scale for the first German tanks. Two reasons - they were pretty small in general. And also, they are available on the market too. I would like if you do a short add-on to this video. Or maybe a FB comment at least. What would be interesting is the way you do the tracks. On desert tanks they are quite specific. Yours looks great, although I didn't catch the techniques used. And warm thanx for the comments on the masks, but you did a fantastic job with the decals here!
The fire extinguisher is still a huge controversy today. The Bovington tank museum tour guide said in 1943 they started painting them red. having been a soldier for my entire adult life I can tell you, we painted them with krylon if they were on the outside of a vehicle but most of the time we kept them inside. Even at listening posts they paint them another color so whatever you want to paint them, I say go ahead...it is your model.
Just an interesting bit of info. The Panzer 1 weighed only slightly more than one track of a Tiger 2.... Just puts this entire tank evolution into perspective.
@@rurushu8094 I only saw your reply now. What I meant was not a single track link but an entire track of the Tiger 2. ie. If you remove the entire left hand track of a Tiger 2 then it weighs slightly less than a Panzer 1. Do you understand now? I can't put it simpler than that. You should have noticed this when you typed your reply. I spoke of a track and you spoke of a track link....
I have complete another video on weathering DAK tanks -- this time a Panzer III -- showing some different effects, such as no oil paints. It's a little more simple in terms of finish but I think it still looks great.
Check it out here: ruclips.net/video/wT3B0JqyC-Y/видео.html
The final result is very convincing. Thank you for the step by step process. Its always interesting to see how other modelers achieve their final product.
Howdy. First of all, I'm a model railroader. When I want to portray rust, I use REAL rust. I make my own real rust. First I put approx. 2 rolls of 0000 fine steel wool into a quart jar. I then add enough white vinegar to cover the steel wool and sit the jar in a window that gets a lot of sun (in my case it's the kitchen window). I usually leave it for about 2 months or until most of the steel wool is dissolved into the vinegar (sometimes takes longer) and give the jar a shake once in a while. After most of the steel wool is dissolved I pour the mixture into a square or rectangle glass baking dish and put the dish in my closet for about 2 weeks or until the vinegar is dried completely. I then use a single edge razor blade scraper and chop up the rust mixture into a very fine powder. I usually store the rust powder in little snuff cans or tins of the same size. When I want to use the rust on a railroad car (or whatever) I take several scoops of rust powder and mix it with some isopropyl alcohol and equal part of Elmer's glue and add a few drops of water soluble glycerin. I make it up as a wash if I want the plastic to look like metal, but mix it kinda like paint if I want to use it as rust spots. It works very well and is REAL rust. Everyone who has seen my models remarks about how real the plastic looks like metal and how real the rust is.
I'm a 60 year old and learning so much from these tutorials. Well done very impressive
I was told by my grandfather your never to old to learn.
This video was PHENOMENAL. I’ve never seen anyone go from bare model to complete weathering, paneling, etc in a single video. Well done, sir! I’ve just subbed as the quality of your videos is insanely high! The video, editing, cut scenes, narration; it’s all perfect. This is better than broadcast TV. I just wanted to say thanks for sharing and please, keep up the good work!
I once read that in the beginning stages or perhaps that later stages of the war in the desert that the DAK didn't bother to paint the lower hull the sand camouflage color. They left that up to mother nature and tons of desert dust to do the job. Especially in the area of the tracks and behind the road wheels. If true it sort of makes sense for conserving both paint and time. This particular tutorial was very informative and fun to watch. I've been modeling for well over 40 yrs. It's always fun to learn something new. You did a great job with this one.
You deserve so many more subs man, you tutorials are really in depth and informative and the videos are really well edited with decent background music which doesnt overpower you voice. so glad i found your channel
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Your videos have gotten me back into modeling. I haven't done it for 35 years but you have inspired me!!! Your videos are the best I have seen on line. Good Job!!!
Invaluable information in these 1 hr long tutorials -- everything from simple decal applications to base coat and gloss painting was worthwhile. I returned to model building after about a 30 year hiatus. I wish I'd known even just a small fraction of all this info back then. Thanks!
Hi, French beginnner in tank model here. Your video are very impressive, interesting and now a reference for me. Thank you very much !
Glad it was helpful!
You are a legend! You've made weathering look so simple and as I've never tried it before I certainly will now! Keep up the good work!
Your video has helped me a thousand times more then the 57 other tutorials I've watched. Thank you for your knowledge. Definitely impressed.
I've been away from this stuff for a while, and was kinda afraid the next kits I make might suck.... :)
I'm so glad I found your tutorials! they embolden me to improve, but not be paralyzed with fear of imperfection. Great vids! Great instruction ( without schilling )
This has actually given me ideas in an unrelated way. I have a similar old Tamiya Pz.II built many years ago that is far too dark grey once cleared for decals. It may become a candidate for a desert scheme over the top or perhaps a well-worn winter finish.
Same chipping effect I used on a white washed KV-1 platoon in 15mm, looks realistic even at that scale.
I very much appreciate your video. As a novice airbrusher, you have managed to give me the advice on mixing paint that I needed. My early attempts had the wrong paint mix, so we’re very wet and did not achieve the effect I wanted. I am attempting to now start weathering using the advice you have given in the video. Well done - keep those videos coming.
Traduzione italiano
Excellent guide and your model looks incredible - so realistic!
Yes, I think so too👍✌
I learn so much watching you paint your models BIG like from me.
Fantastic realistic weathering and finishing; straight out of the hot, dusty campaign in Libya. I'm new to the hobby and the DAK is what I've always found most interesting.
Your tank is how I imagine armour should look like from Northern Africa. Great work!
Im in the middle of weathering my dragon mk 1 in same manner, wow, thank you for gifted us w these techniques
Thank you Ken, I hope your Panzer I project goes well!
just sitting here with my mouth open ,starring at the screen as if you were teaching me the secret of immortal life...god damn the skills.....
Thank you very much! I'm glad you enjoyed it :)
@@Panzermeister36 I am a bit perplexed about the order that you glue your parts...dont the paint interfere with the bond?and how do you deal with glue possibly messing up the paint?
I use super glue for attaching most parts after painting so the paint does not really have an effect on adhesion.
@@Panzermeister36 ohh...not the first who tell me they use super glue instead of cement...gotta give it a go some time then
+ScipionLaurentiend I use cement for assembling the model parts when they are unpainted. I only use super glue if the parts are painted or if they are metal parts.
Hey brother I love your painting techniques as so many modelers go the flat black base then they air brush white in panels then the base color is sprayed! You are doing very good and inspirational!
Straight forward run through,using a little to make so much.!.Excellent build,painting and effects..Be watching this for reference a good few times..Thanks for a Great video and all the best from Blighty🇬🇧🇺🇸👍
This tutorials are my side-by-side companions during my builds. You are a genius. U should upload more of this like weathering olve drab or diferent types of cammo. Kepp getting better thanks to you
+Luis Boni thank you! I'm glad you engoy them. And yes, I will be featuring more colours of tanks in the future, once I have the time to make another big video like this.
Thank you for all the videos, I’ve learnt so much especially on this and the other DAK video, extremely helpful for my own build.
I've watched all three of these videos and it's inspired me to pick up scale modelling again. When I finish painting my Bolt Action stuff I'm going to pick up a kit and go for it
That is awesome :) I'm glad to be of inspiration! I hope you enjoy it as much as I do
Man, that's a long video there! But every minute is full of informative details and well worth the time. I find your tips simple with realistic results and your camera angles are the best. Thank you for making the video and sharing your knowledge with us. I would rate this how-to video one of the best in RUclips.
Thank you very much!
Your videos have kept me sane during this COVID crap my Brother 👍🏻🇦🇺 love your work, it’s bloody awesome ;)
Thank you! I hope you're holding up well.
Awesome look to this Panzer I - love the European Theater Panzer Grey showing through. Well done!
Stunning.. simply stunning!!
Best hour I've spent this weekend, very informative just what I needed in order to finish my panzer 3 except mine is the Tamiya version . brilliant work learned alot many thanks....
That looks awesome dude! If you'd have said that was the real thing, I'd have believed it!
Once again, another informative and useful reference video, with practical techniques that can be adapted to suit every field vehicle. Thank you.
One freshly painted, factory new Panzer vs one weathering boi. Nicely done! I really have no time at all for models at the moment but once i do, i know i´m gonna at least try the hairspray chipping and the pin wash you show here. Small steps! Thank you for all those vids. Way to go!
This thing would really shine in a diorama! just to get you even further outside your comfort zone
Big tombs up for your work. Great one of my favorite
Currently I'm doing IS-3M for desert color. Your tutorial really help me to finish my model. Thanks bro.
You are a great modeller. Thx a lot for your precious tutorials!
Great timing! Your tips will come in handy for my M3 Stewart that I’m about to paint and weather!
Keep up the great work!
well I'm going to bed at 12 instead of 11
Niko Stavropoulos any figure ines
Im going to bed at 2 instead of 1 😂
lol i look at the time and guess what time it is
This actually helps alot thank you so much, and keep up the good work!
Great work as always! Your weathering series is exactly what I, and I’m sure a lot of people, are looking for. One small request, i really struggle with colors so it’s great when you provide the mixtures. I know that’s a tough request when you blend them by eye, but it is appreciated. Keep them coming!
Hello Terry. Thank you for the input. In my recent videos I do try to include the paint mixes to help out more. Cheers :)
I guess you have covered all a beginner might need. Looks amazing with straightforward tuition, if any of my model vehicles look half as good I will be happy, thanks!!
As I said before Fantastic! You make it look easy. This is one of the BEST weathering videos I have seen on RUclips. Keep 'em coming!
M8! WOW! I've been playing Warhammer 40k for at least 10 years and i habe seen many Model tank (including my own Imperial vehicels) but i've never seen such a work on the tabel from other Hobby players.... Respect!
BTW. Heres your Popcorn! Enjoy it ^.-
Just watched this video again. Spectacular detail. One small criticism, the divisional marking is inaccurate. When 5 Pz. Regt. shipped out for Tripoli to form up with other units into 5 Light Div. they wore the 3 Pz. Div. marking on grey paint . Arriving in North Africa Feb-March 1941 they were repainted an overall sand colour obscuring the 3 Pz. Div. marks. On 15 Aug 1941, 5 Light Div. was renamed 21 Pz. Div. and the new divisional mark was applied, on the desert camouflage.
Cheers for the input Alex. At the time I did not do much research into markings so it's partially based on photos and partially made up. Nowadays I do much more research 😁 I have another Pz I A that I may do in a DAK scheme in which case I'll get it right. Thanks!
I do similar to this method for 3d model textures....applying camo etc then using an eraser tool set to certain opacities removing areas of paint where it would be chipped etc like panels and edges etc...top job on the PzKw1 looks really good.excellent 57:51 could be the real thing
Spectacular! Thank you so much for sharing your take on weathering effects. For the record, these scale up very nicely. Cheers!
+Scale Builder's Guild thank you very much!
One of the best painting tutorials I've seen! Thank you so much for this!
An impressive and definitive tutorial! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with us!
Awesome video mate, definitely need to watch this again. Thanks for taking the effort to make this video!
Great video with really well detailed instructions. Also very well spoken, pleasure to watch and learn from. I look forward to seeing more. 😊👍
Ohhh that looks magnificent. Great work and thanks for sharing the process...🤟
Thanks for watching!
Another incredible tutorial Evan! I enjoy the pin wash and oil fading techniques that really start to breath life into a model tank.
Keep up the great work! Cheers!
Thanks. Enjoyed this. I am about to tackle the RyeField DAK Tiger 1
Glad you enjoyed! :)
Great work and a brilliant video, perfectly pitched for those wanting to learn weathering techniques.....many thanks for posting
Awesome job. Never did an Africa Corps tank I want to now.
What kit is this? :)
I used a Dragon Panzer I Ausf.A kit. Dragon makes an actual Africa Korps version of the kit, but I had to use another kit and then modified it to this standard.
Looks great. I would add some black exhaust to the panel below the exhaust tips.
This is so in-depth and very informative. Thank you for posting this. Can’t wait to try my hand at this.
That is one beautifully painted model. Fair dues to you! May your chickens always have eggs.
Well done!! Looks really good and you really walk guys through every step and sprinkle in some history and reference along the way. You're correct- as far as I've been able to find - exterior fire extinguishers were the same color as the base tank. That being said at some point along the way, interior fire extinguishers were red in crew compartments. So even though something like a 251 half track has the interior painted to match the exterior base color, I believe that is the exception where the interior/crew accessable fire extinguishers are correct in red. I know that was just a little footnote in your hour long video- but I've seen waaay too many excellent models with red extinguishers on the fenders...
That’s art by an artist.
Excellent video with plenty of good tips!!! 👍 Be nice if you included more about finishing the tracks.
Hello Jerry. Yeah I forgot to film when I painted the tracks. Really all I did was paint them dark brown with the airbrush and then I gave them the same pigments as the rest of the wheels and hull.
All looks good!!!
a very informative video, watching it for the third time and taking notes. wish i could make one look a quarter as good
very impressive model and coherent video, i am very much looking forward to the PIII DAK project :)
Really really beautiful job. I have two comments but please don't take them as shots against you. I'm just not sure if this applicable for Pz.1 but I would have liked to have seen some demarcation between wheel and rubber, (if Pz.1 had rubber on wheels). Just a slight color change if you find it appropriate.
Perhaps drilling out MGs?
This is a great rendering of a DAK vehicle. One of the best I have seen.
Yeah, I should have gotten some metal MG barrels for this. That's a major weak point in the kit. As for the rubber, I see your point, but the panzer grey is usually dark enough in photos that it appears the same colour as rubber tyres. I don't think it would be wrong to make some visual difference there, though.
Very informative and concise. Excellent modeling
Another superb finish Panzermeister, I love the weathered sand camo effect you have depicted. I know you're a fan of Mike Rinaldi, and I've got say the finish you achieved on this little beauty is up there with what I've seen Mike produce in his Tank Art books. I've also got to mention the fantastic production values you are providing for these videos.
Incredible.
Outstanding effects...
I would only say that the rubber road wheels are very pristine compared to the rest of the tank. The rubber treads would pick up dents, nicks and wear.. and some would be new and others older, so they shouldn’t be uniformly worn.
Also you’ll see exhaust shields rust at different rates .. not for any reason other than they could have been made at different times and if different quality steel... but don’t overdo it. Yours look pretty good as they are.
Very well done Evan. The chipping and weathering was very realistic and I think overall you have a very nice piece. I know how much work it takes to make one of these videos as I just finished editing my first video. So congrats on all your hard work!
Professionally done, informative and beautiful job.
very nice, great work and video, i really like your videos👍✌
Great work! Thanks for all you do for the hobby.
Thank you!
WOW - Super video - Great step by step - Thanks for all of the tips....
Great job on the model and video. Can't wait to try it all out myself.
Mixing Windex with water makes a misplaced decal lift easier and keeps it moveable alot longer than just water... Automotive paint and decal technique, but I'd think it would work on plastic too
You would have to be careful over Acrylic paints as Windex is a REALLY good solvent for them, but over Enamel and Lacquer, it could work.
You never fail to impress... keep up the great work and videos
What can I say but excellent, really like that one.
Thanks for your videos, they're awesome, so are your scale models!!
I’m sure someone has already said this but mount the model on something or wear gloves to keep finger oils off the plastic so it doesn’t do anything weird when applied
This is a small vehicle! You did an awesome job, especially considering the platform size. Kudos!
Thank you Mitko. Like I said in the video, I would have much rather preferred to use your masks for the numbers but that wasn't a possibility...next time I will use them though; they are the best!
I am thinking maybe 1/16th scale for the first German tanks. Two reasons - they were pretty small in general. And also, they are available on the market too.
I would like if you do a short add-on to this video. Or maybe a FB comment at least. What would be interesting is the way you do the tracks. On desert tanks they are quite specific. Yours looks great, although I didn't catch the techniques used.
And warm thanx for the comments on the masks, but you did a fantastic job with the decals here!
*A great job on this little tracked "thing", the result is so realistic! 👍*
My favourite tank.
Great! Thanks. Working on a Grant now, going to try these techniques.
Super job, looks fantastic.
The fire extinguisher is still a huge controversy today. The Bovington tank museum tour guide said in 1943 they started painting them red. having been a soldier for my entire adult life I can tell you, we painted them with krylon if they were on the outside of a vehicle but most of the time we kept them inside. Even at listening posts they paint them another color so whatever you want to paint them, I say go ahead...it is your model.
Great video! I have learnt lot, thank you for sharing your expertise
Best video so far! Looks amazing by the way! 👍🏻👍🏻
Your videos are very informative ty to you sir
excellent video. a lot to learn from
Enjoyed that very much. Thank you for this great video
Awesome work,thx 4 that and greetinx from Berlin,Germany
Thank you!
Just an interesting bit of info. The Panzer 1 weighed only slightly more than one track of a Tiger 2.... Just puts this entire tank evolution into perspective.
A track link on a tiger is 40 to 60 kilograms (can’t remember exactly) while a panzer I is 5400 kilograms. What are you on?
Perhaps have a closer look at what a track link on a Tiger 1 weighed?
@@rurushu8094 I only saw your reply now. What I meant was not a single track link but an entire track of the Tiger 2. ie. If you remove the entire left hand track of a Tiger 2 then it weighs slightly less than a Panzer 1. Do you understand now? I can't put it simpler than that. You should have noticed this when you typed your reply. I spoke of a track and you spoke of a track link....
Großartig! Saubere Arbeit! 👍👍👍
awesome job !
Very good job.
Fantastic video as usual!
I only found your channel yesterday.
Fabulous work, man!
Kudos!
Thank you!
Great job and great info. Thank you.👍👍🇨🇦