This man is a genius. Best woodwork instructional videos on RUclips. Not only a craftsman but also a great teacher. Power tool manufacturers must hate him.
I have been watching your videos with interest. My Dad was from England...Brighton? Area....cabinet maker by trade....I watched and learned while he worked......but unfortunately he died when I was 22. I have been moving his wood shop tools with me 5 times now from house to house...And only recently felt like I wanted to work there again. I am now 50s..Thank you for taking the time to post these videos...it is great help reminding me of what I was taught....as well as bringing up to speed with new ideas. Some things seem automatic skill....others I still struggle...so I refer to you often. I really appreciate what you provide in your videos.
It's never too late to pick up hand tool woodworking. after my father passed away, I got the tools he hasn't used for many decades, I especially like the oiling rag in a can. I made my own from Paul's video, but I always found myself reaching for his. Now my two daughters play in my shop. Maybe someday they will reach to the same old oiling rag as me.
When I made mine I added a small semi-circle hole the same depth, centered at one end of each plate, to provide access if I need to lever the plates out. No need for adhesive, the friction fit was all that is needed.
I just spent a couple of hours with my Stanley 71 and a couple of chisels and made one and I must say it came out perfect .I used all your techniques I must say I had a great afternoon thanks so much
Paul, I like pocketing the plates but not all in one piece. The diamond plates will become more usable if you mount each one in a separate block. Rebate the bottom sides of the blocks so they easily drop into the vise and set level. I use the three grades of diamond plates plus a fourth block with strop also shaped the same so it drops into the vise. Having them separated allows them to be used for knives and low angle blades with out banging your knuckles on the plates your not using. Just something to think about.
I'm new to woodworking and new to working with hand planes, chisels, etc. I really enjoy learning from your videos. Like many others here I want to thank you for sharing your knowledge and doing it in such a pleasant way. Thank you sir.
I love watching your videos. I was inspired so much I made my own sharpening station. It's not perfect but now incandescent sharpen my chisels so much easier and make better work from now on. Thank you
Superb series by a master joiner evidently. Thank you Mr Sellers. My own woodworking skills began with my Father too in England on his house-building construction sites in the mid 70s. He was in a "reserved occupation" during WW2 making landing craft and repairing bullet holes in Wellington Bombers. He's promised me his Record No.8! I learnt the hand skills then from an early age and after a 35 year break in Project Management, I am planning my shop for retirement working in plywood for cabinets and exotic hardwoods for lutherie. So the biggest to the smallest workpieces but all must be with precision accuracy. I've still a lot to learn and will enjoy all of your Masterclasses Paul. I remember the oak oil stone coffins I made and still have - but as you say in your video comparing Low Angle to Common Bevel bench planes, the technology has moved on. But I can't do it all by hand any more. For me it will have to be selected good wood, face-edged by hand with the No.8 and winding strips and then finished by machine. Woodworkers must acquire the techniques, understanding and hand skills first.
I love your videos, very relaxing. Once I start watching one I can't stop even though I'll never try most of them, making this plate holder for example. Excellent, thank you :)
I've been tooling up for some time. This was my first official project and I completed it yesterday. Took the better part of a morning and for my first crack with hand tools, the result was quite satisfactory. I had an issue with the stop slot and one of my recesses being a bit tight, but I'm working a chisel perpendicular to the base and it's coming along. The stop on the bottom was tight too, and caused the fragile lip to separate a bit at the edge. It works fine, and will assist in the next project. I have to figure out what I'm doing incorrectly that my recess/stop slot ended up a shade small.
I've made an extended platform for my hand router, similar to the one Mr Sellers uses. I think it could be improved. If I make it out of a 6mm thick clear acrylic sheet. Iit would be thinner, have a lower coefficient of friction so that it glides over the work more easily and, being clear, you can see when you are approaching an edge.
At the start of this video Paul mentions it will change your life...WHY DID I WAIT SO LONG TO MAKE ONE!!!!! Spent an hour laying it out and chopping the openings...then another half hour and had a long line of planes sharp and ready to go in no time! Wonderful improvement and seriously worth doing!!! Only thing I did differently is I did four openings, the forth being for a leather stropping pad.
I use my diamond plates to flatten my ceramic stones from time to time, so for me it's no use to glue them into a plate holder. But... if I'd build one your style, I'd probabyl drill one or two holes into each recess to make it easier to pop out the plates, if necessary.
I've been wanting to make me one of these for my three diamond stones from harbor freight & just have been waiting for a nice scrap of baltic birch to come by. Thanks Paul Gary/Hk Also will give me a reason to to use my homemade #71 router.. Off to the shop as soon as I finish lunch..
My grandma gave me my grandpa's old hand plane set, they are old and dull at the moment. This is going to be my first project so I can properly sharpen and maintain the blades. Thanks for the video! it is a real treat to learn from you.
Thank you once again Paul for sharing your wealth of experience. I made a Paul Sellers' inspired diamond plate holder some months ago out of ply with the exception that I added a large hole under each plate for the ease of removing the plates for cleaning purposes. The plates were also positioned to one side rather than centered and were recessed so that the diamond layer shared the same level with the ply surface. The extra recess can help with certain sharpening jigs. So far I am pleased with the results, but wondered what your thoughts would be on the modifications made. Also, I thought about making one of these from plexy glass for the water proof nature of the material and the durability of the surface. What do you think?
What kind of silicone do you use to seat the plates? I know it is not an adhesive so you can take the plates out, but I don’t know what to buy. Thank you for all these wonderful videos Mr Sellers!
Dear Paul I was not sure were to post request so sorry if I VIOLATED any protocalls. I was thinking of purchasing a hand router but hesitate because I don't understand much about it Could you do a how to about them like you have done with the hand planes, especially how to sharpen them. Thanks in advance Frank PS LOVE your vid very informative.
Appreciate your video's very much Paul. I just wondered with this project whether it might be easier (and equally effective) to cut three rectangles from a 2mm sheet of birch ply and glue this to the base?
What are the 3 grits you use? Do they come in a set? If so where from? Thanks Paul you've taught me a ton. I use sandpaper for my blades 220grit to 3000grit and get a razor blade mirror finish but I think stones might be faster. I'd like to try it out.
If I want to grind a damaged edge I use sand paper as it's quick for that process. I use DMT continuos diamond plates they are ok quick for general maintenance sharpening. I find the coarse diamond stones do wear quick if you use them daily as I do.
A question, Paul: I guess I'd understand routing the base to fit the stones if the idea was to have the stones flush with the base. But, given that they're still proud of the base, wouldn't it be easier (and equally effective) to just glue down something like pieces of tongue depressors to hold the plates in place? I've seen this fitted approach on a number of the handtool oriented sites, but I have a feeling they all got it from the same source. (Here.) Is this method something to do just "because you can"? Or is there a good reason? I would think creating these essentially water-tight pools under the plates could lead to more danger of corrosion.
I bought Paul's kit for making a hand plane, and am looking forward to making and using it when I can get in to our off-grid property, come April - can't open the water-lines till then. In building that plane, I need a diamond plate holder to do a better job of sharpening my chisels and plane irons. So I agree with Dino, it's quicker to glue pieces of wood to a 1/2" Baltic birch plywood base. Rather than tongue depressors, I picked up a 3-foot damaged piece of softwood moulding for a buck (rectangular cross section, 1/4" by 1-1/2"). I'll rip it in half, and use a scraper to smooth it. Should make perfect retainers for the 5 sharpening "stages"(4-piece DMT Dia-Sharp set, plus a strop). I don't plan to use any adhesive, so I can remove the plates, clean & dry them, and store them away from the wet wooden holder. I think this will work well. Once I have the hand plane finished, I may feel like making Paul's holder with embedded plates. But I'm lazy, so if the quick-fix holder works, I'll probably stick with it.
Love the way you use old school measurements,my brain automatically goes to these,where as metric I have to think about it (or check) love the videos Paul
Hi Paul, I have recently got into woodworking and am loving it! I am really enjoying your videos! Which brand of diamond stones do you use and where can I get some from? I live in UK and there are many different types and brands... A lot with poor reviews! Simon
Paul, I've noticed in some of your videos that you sometimes don't have enough space to use the middle stone in the same way as the outer stones, because the sides of the middle stone are close the the outer stones - do you think it would be worth rotating the centre stone 90° so it lies along the front edge of the plate holder? Then you could work from the side of the plate more easily?
Hi Russell. I like the compactness and the workability of what i have and have never had any need to use the middle plate in that way. That said i see no reason not to do it if that is your preference.
I have three laid out in 2 x 2 formation lengthwise. I originally did it because I thought I'd buy a 4th but never did. If you're doing the ruler trick with a plane blade or whatever, then it's a better set up as you can access the middle stone. However, I find that I'm constantly spinning the board round to get at whichever stone I need (although I placed medium and fine along the same edge as I don't always need the coarse for touch up) and so Paul's clamping edge is no use for my set up. I prefer my setup for doing the underside of a chisel, for the reasons you state. You can lay a chisel flat across all three stones and not sharpen without issue as the handle protrudes off the edge of the board and doesn't catch.
I'm trying to make one out of a bamboo wood chopping board. But I don't have a hand router like that, I'm just using a chisel. Did you ever make a video of, the making of a poor man's hand router, it would be great to see it if you did. Wish I had more time to watch you, but this time of year, it's gardening that takes up my time. Best wishes Geoff Maddison
I've been thinking of getting in to "freestyle honing" for a while. How long is it typically before one has to replace the plates if one assumes they're used on a daily basis? How long do yours last Paul?
Different diamond stones have different durability. I use DMT Diasharp bench stones, and I believe Paul Sellers uses EZElap. Both are high quality. With an average of five minutes of daily use, they last several years. The nickel plating holding the diamonds in place will eventually wear, and you either get streaking or "dead" areas and uneven sharpening. But with daily use, you still get years before that happens. A "normal" user might expect at least five to ten years, I would guess. If longevity is a concern, nothing beats Arkansas stones. They can be re-surfaced, and the denser ones can last a hundred years if you don't crack or chip them. But they also require much more work to sharpen with, so diamond is a better choice for most people.
Apart from the diamond stones - which I presume are expensive,Paul just uses ordinary tools. For instance, he could use a quick release vice, but instead chooses one in which you wind it in and out. Similarly, he could use a Veritas hand router, which is expensive, but has a few features that cheaper ones don't - such as a depth stop. Instead, his router is made by either Record or Stanley - just like the one I use.
Is there a good method to do this for someone that does not have a router plane? I was thinking maybe i build it out of 2 pieces of plywood, so the top layer can just have all the material cut out, then glue it ontop of a solid piece.
Paul I was watching your presentation on the plate holder and I was wondering if it would be quicker and easier to use a chisel to get out the bulk of the waste and then follow up with the router plane.
Paul recently retired and took a interest in woodworking. Small things bird houses etc. I see you have so much more control using that hand router and chisels as opposed to a router. I will attempt to recreate a sharpening holder. Can I use 3/4 Material (pine) as opposed to cabinet grade ply. Just curious. Thank you for your videos
Any chance of you posting a photograph (or a diagram) of the plate that you have attached to the bottom of your router plane? Thanks ☺ Ooops!!! After a bit more reading down the page, I found a link to the making of the wooden sole. Silly me!
Yes just be prepared for it to cut and bow when used extensively for long periods of sharpening. Plywood has the advantage of remaining flat in wet conditions.
Hi Paul. I am from Nottingham and have only just discovered your videos, they are awesome, i have been woodworking for a few years and am a keen, but amateur carver , i love the plate sharpeners, where do you buy those plates? Ive looked around and cant seem to find them online. Any help would be appreciated. Keep up the good work. Love the vlogs by the way, the latest on was very true and is how a lot of people are feeling. You have given my some real inspiration . Thanks
What about lapping /sharpening the flat part of a chisel whose edge is far out of flush with the blade? Wouldn’t it make more sense to leave an edge of each plate free so you could run the whole length? Aside from that objection, thanks mr sellers, cool to see the router plane on plywood
I know it would never happen because the world of hollywood tv would be so anti-climatic to Paul's beautiful, calm, real world. But sometimes I see him with a TV show like Masterchef or Forged in Iron. It'd be a hit.
Hi, Happy to follow you. Thanks for all your nice and clear explanations. Which trade stone are you using ? I already have some but easy to hill them as they are certainly poor quality. Thanks! Mat
Did you add the board that is under your hand router? I just bought one but it is very small, only 3 1/4" from the center of the hand knobs. It looks easier with the board under it but I don't have any holes to screw through it. Can I glue one on?
What you make is impressive enough but what you don't make is even more so, dust, dust and more dust! It's worth the extra ten minutes spent hand cutting to avoid the hour's cleanup that follows every use of electric tools!
3½ years ago this was made but I have no idea where Paul got his diamond plates from. All the ones I have seen in March 2021 have not so good reviews. They are either are or become rusty, are not flat or the diamond covering comes or is coming off after 4 or 5 chisels have been sharpened. Most of the ones I have seen are a lot smaller at 150mm x 50mm and are not the longer and wider ones as shown here. This can be a far size outlay for a smallish budget so obviously would like value for money as in they will not lose their abrasive surface after half a dozen sharpens and are flat enough for plane irons. Anyone got any suggestions? Thank you.
I am a beginner. I just bought the Veritas honing guide and DMT diamond stones for sharpening my chisels and irons. I've been drooling over Paul's block, but am concerned that it wouldn't work well with a guide, as there needs to be room to move the guide back and forth on the stones. Therefore, I might only have 4 inches of stone making contact with the blades. Comments/suggestions?
Would it not be easier to just put wooden beading around the diamond plate and screw/glue the beading onto the hardwood board ? You would only need 4 short lengths, no need to contact entire perimeter of the diamond block.
Hi Paul, how easy is it to unseat the plates once you have seated them with silicone without damaging the board edge, Kind regards and thanks for your time.
I tried this with a small router plane and it was difficult because the opening was wider than the plane base. I guess I'll have to try making a wider base for my router plane as it seems you have. In the meantime I'll cheat and use a small power router to hog away most of the material. 🤭
instead of inlaying the plates, why not just get some thin project board, cut out the plate holes and glue it to a sheet of plywood? unless its just a scrap piece of plywood that is the correct size already obviously.
It's a Stanley No. 71 They have become expensive to buy. You can make a a wooden router plane using an Allen key as a cutter. I have one on my channel if you are looking for ideas. Easy to make and you only need a few scraps of material. Not much to lose except a bit of time and mine works great. I use it all the time.
Trick of the trade: Always have a small chunk of putty nearby. A couple of tacks of putty, and things won't slip; reducing the need for clamps. I have a small cup with a chunk of putty, a chunk of stropping compound, and a chunk of beeswax, because those three are always useful.
So I decided to invest in these diamond stones. I can get the DMTs pretty easily. Shall I go for extra coarse, fine and extrafine, or coarse, fine and extrafine? I was thinking that the extra coarse grit (220 mesh) might be too aggressive and might not use it so often? Coarse is a 325 mesh that finds a more general use perhaps? Forgive my naive question - been sharpening with sandpaper so far...
I'd recommend a coarse like the 325 and a super fine like 1200. You don't need a plate in between. Two stones + a strop is a good setup, and if you hone very frequently just with the strop you don't really need a coarse stone, unless you often happen to have a very bad edge
It depends on what you sharpen. 1200 isn't fine enough for some uses, like fine carving tools, and leaves streaks too big for light stropping to remove - you have to really go at it with compound for a while to get the streaks out, and doing that rounds the edge slightly too. But for chisels and bench plane blades, 1200 is more than good enough.
EXcellent master work, as always, Mr. Sellers!!! I was wondering if these sharpening plates would crack while trying to unseat? And, exactly how would you go about unseating them? I don't know how sturdy they are, because I have never seen or used these before. (I'm just a beginner.) Is it advisable to treat the wood with tung oil or danish oil before inserting the plates? Or, would that make the adhesive not stick? Thank you for freely bringing your lifelong craft to the world. I have viewed every single one of your videos, and have some head knowledge, but, not much time for practicing right now. God bless you :-D
Hi Kathleen. Thank you for your comment. They won’t crack because they are plate steel and the bedding material does not really glue them but more cushions them and they usually come away quite easily. You can use polyurethane, tung oil or Danish oil.
First of all, thanks for another great video! I have a question about plywood and the fact that it is going to be wet. Should I consider to ensure the tightness between the stone and the wood? Or my point is just an unuseful detail? Thank in advance!
This man is a genius. Best woodwork instructional videos on RUclips. Not only a craftsman but also a great teacher. Power tool manufacturers must hate him.
I have been watching your videos with interest. My Dad was from England...Brighton? Area....cabinet maker by trade....I watched and learned while he worked......but unfortunately he died when I was 22. I have been moving his wood shop tools with me 5 times now from house to house...And only recently felt like I wanted to work there again. I am now 50s..Thank you for taking the time to post these videos...it is great help reminding me of what I was taught....as well as bringing up to speed with new ideas. Some things seem automatic skill....others I still struggle...so I refer to you often. I really appreciate what you provide in your videos.
Thank you for your kind comment.
🌾🌾🌫🎋
It's never too late to pick up hand tool woodworking. after my father passed away, I got the tools he hasn't used for many decades, I especially like the oiling rag in a can. I made my own from Paul's video, but I always found myself reaching for his. Now my two daughters play in my shop. Maybe someday they will reach to the same old oiling rag as me.
I’ve owned chisels my whole life, yet never knew the amazing work they could accomplish. Thanks for sharing!
When I made mine I added a small semi-circle hole the same depth, centered at one end of each plate, to provide access if I need to lever the plates out. No need for adhesive, the friction fit was all that is needed.
I just spent a couple of hours with my Stanley 71 and a couple of chisels and made one and I must say it came out perfect .I used all your techniques I must say I had a great afternoon thanks so much
Paul, I like pocketing the plates but not all in one piece. The diamond plates will become more usable if you mount each one in a separate block. Rebate the bottom sides of the blocks so they easily drop into the vise and set level. I use the three grades of diamond plates plus a fourth block with strop also shaped the same so it drops into the vise. Having them separated allows them to be used for knives and low angle blades with out banging your knuckles on the plates your not using. Just something to think about.
I'm new to woodworking and new to working with hand planes, chisels, etc. I really enjoy learning from your videos. Like many others here I want to thank you for sharing your knowledge and doing it in such a pleasant way. Thank you sir.
I'm making myself this one now. Almost done (I've just applied first coat of finish). Really enjoying the process. Thanks, Paul!
like your style bro, i was struggling to sharpen my chisels until ur wisdom 👍
I love watching your videos. I was inspired so much I made my own sharpening station. It's not perfect but now incandescent sharpen my chisels so much easier and make better work from now on. Thank you
Superb series by a master joiner evidently. Thank you Mr Sellers. My own woodworking skills began with my Father too in England on his house-building construction sites in the mid 70s. He was in a "reserved occupation" during WW2 making landing craft and repairing bullet holes in Wellington Bombers. He's promised me his Record No.8! I learnt the hand skills then from an early age and after a 35 year break in Project Management, I am planning my shop for retirement working in plywood for cabinets and exotic hardwoods for lutherie. So the biggest to the smallest workpieces but all must be with precision accuracy. I've still a lot to learn and will enjoy all of your Masterclasses Paul. I remember the oak oil stone coffins I made and still have - but as you say in your video comparing Low Angle to Common Bevel bench planes, the technology has moved on. But I can't do it all by hand any more. For me it will have to be selected good wood, face-edged by hand with the No.8 and winding strips and then finished by machine. Woodworkers must acquire the techniques, understanding and hand skills first.
Nothing like watching a true craftsman at work. Thanks for sharing
I love your videos, very relaxing. Once I start watching one I can't stop even though I'll never try most of them, making this plate holder for example. Excellent, thank you :)
Like the planes additional base plate, simple but effective. This plane is on my wish list!
I've been tooling up for some time. This was my first official project and I completed it yesterday. Took the better part of a morning and for my first crack with hand tools, the result was quite satisfactory. I had an issue with the stop slot and one of my recesses being a bit tight, but I'm working a chisel perpendicular to the base and it's coming along. The stop on the bottom was tight too, and caused the fragile lip to separate a bit at the edge. It works fine, and will assist in the next project. I have to figure out what I'm doing incorrectly that my recess/stop slot ended up a shade small.
Enjoyed this video very much. I plan to make a slightly modified version for my double sided diamond plates.
I've made an extended platform for my hand router, similar to the one Mr Sellers uses. I think it could be improved. If I make it out of a 6mm thick clear acrylic sheet. Iit would be thinner, have a lower coefficient of friction so that it glides over the work more easily and, being clear, you can see when you are approaching an edge.
At the start of this video Paul mentions it will change your life...WHY DID I WAIT SO LONG TO MAKE ONE!!!!!
Spent an hour laying it out and chopping the openings...then another half hour and had a long line of planes sharp and ready to go in no time! Wonderful improvement and seriously worth doing!!!
Only thing I did differently is I did four openings, the forth being for a leather stropping pad.
Parabéns pelo trabalho, quanta habilidade e carinho no que faz, impressionante!!!
Abraço aqui do Brasil 🇧🇷
I use my diamond plates to flatten my ceramic stones from time to time, so for me it's no use to glue them into a plate holder. But... if I'd build one your style, I'd probabyl drill one or two holes into each recess to make it easier to pop out the plates, if necessary.
Very nice, and no earplugs or eye protection required! I think I will make mine with a hanger hole. Thank you, sir!
I've been wanting to make me one of these for my three diamond stones from harbor freight & just have been waiting for a nice scrap of baltic birch to come by. Thanks Paul Gary/Hk Also will give me a reason to to use my homemade #71 router..
Off to the shop as soon as I finish lunch..
Paul Sellers is amazing.
My grandma gave me my grandpa's old hand plane set, they are old and dull at the moment. This is going to be my first project so I can properly sharpen and maintain the blades. Thanks for the video! it is a real treat to learn from you.
Thanks for sharing your tips and the wonderful video, Mr. Seller!
Awesome Projects. Mr Paul Sellers. very good Job
Thank you once again Paul for sharing your wealth of experience. I made a Paul Sellers' inspired diamond plate holder some months ago out of ply with the exception that I added a large hole under each plate for the ease of removing the plates for cleaning purposes. The plates were also positioned to one side rather than centered and were recessed so that the diamond layer shared the same level with the ply surface. The extra recess can help with certain sharpening jigs. So far I am pleased with the results, but wondered what your thoughts would be on the modifications made. Also, I thought about making one of these from plexy glass for the water proof nature of the material and the durability of the surface. What do you think?
Now that's the way to teach our younger generation to work with your hands to be a true craftsman, a great teacher !
I love it
Thanks!
Thank you!
Brilliant!
What kind of silicone do you use to seat the plates? I know it is not an adhesive so you can take the plates out, but I don’t know what to buy. Thank you for all these wonderful videos Mr Sellers!
Thanks for another excellent video.
Always really cool projects, explained really good. Thanks for sharing!
*Excellent video-tutorial as always Paul :)*
Dear Paul I was not sure were to post request so sorry if I VIOLATED any protocalls. I was thinking of purchasing a hand router but hesitate because I don't understand much about it Could you do a how to about them like you have done with the hand planes, especially how to sharpen them. Thanks in advance Frank PS LOVE your vid very informative.
Appreciate your video's very much Paul. I just wondered with this project whether it might be easier (and equally effective) to cut three rectangles from a 2mm sheet of birch ply and glue this to the base?
That gives me an idea to do that same with some 2mm polycarbonate I have lying around. Your suggestion sounds like a good plan.
"This will last you a lifetime too.........depends on how long your life is" that was brilliant :P
What are the 3 grits you use? Do they come in a set? If so where from? Thanks Paul you've taught me a ton. I use sandpaper for my blades 220grit to 3000grit and get a razor blade mirror finish but I think stones might be faster. I'd like to try it out.
Potassium, Thank you I have never used a strip always knew I needed one just never got one. I will now tho thanks
If I want to grind a damaged edge I use sand paper as it's quick for that process. I use DMT continuos diamond plates they are ok quick for general maintenance sharpening. I find the coarse diamond stones do wear quick if you use them daily as I do.
A question, Paul: I guess I'd understand routing the base to fit the stones if the idea was to have the stones flush with the base. But, given that they're still proud of the base, wouldn't it be easier (and equally effective) to just glue down something like pieces of tongue depressors to hold the plates in place? I've seen this fitted approach on a number of the handtool oriented sites, but I have a feeling they all got it from the same source. (Here.) Is this method something to do just "because you can"? Or is there a good reason? I would think creating these essentially water-tight pools under the plates could lead to more danger of corrosion.
I bought Paul's kit for making a hand plane, and am looking forward to making and using it when I can get in to our off-grid property, come April - can't open the water-lines till then. In building that plane, I need a diamond plate holder to do a better job of sharpening my chisels and plane irons. So I agree with Dino, it's quicker to glue pieces of wood to a 1/2" Baltic birch plywood base. Rather than tongue depressors, I picked up a 3-foot damaged piece of softwood moulding for a buck (rectangular cross section, 1/4" by 1-1/2"). I'll rip it in half, and use a scraper to smooth it. Should make perfect retainers for the 5 sharpening "stages"(4-piece DMT Dia-Sharp set, plus a strop). I don't plan to use any adhesive, so I can remove the plates, clean & dry them, and store them away from the wet wooden holder. I think this will work well. Once I have the hand plane finished, I may feel like making Paul's holder with embedded plates. But I'm lazy, so if the quick-fix holder works, I'll probably stick with it.
Hi there from Portugal,
Hi have one :D
Obrigado(Thanks)
Thanks Paul
A breath of fresh air in a moronic hectic world we have to put up with.
Love the way you use old school measurements,my brain automatically goes to these,where as metric I have to think about it (or check) love the videos Paul
I made one of these today following this guide. His is prettier. :-D
Hi Paul, I have recently got into woodworking and am loving it! I am really enjoying your videos! Which brand of diamond stones do you use and where can I get some from? I live in UK and there are many different types and brands... A lot with poor reviews!
Simon
EZE Lap
What is a good stone to get in the three grits , I bought a cheap stone earlier , but I might want to get a better set
Paul, I've noticed in some of your videos that you sometimes don't have enough space to use the middle stone in the same way as the outer stones, because the sides of the middle stone are close the the outer stones - do you think it would be worth rotating the centre stone 90° so it lies along the front edge of the plate holder? Then you could work from the side of the plate more easily?
Hi Russell. I like the compactness and the workability of what i have and have never had any need to use the middle plate in that way. That said i see no reason not to do it if that is your preference.
great idea.
Paul Sellers Thanks Paul. Might make two holders for my diamond plates and see how they compare 🙂
I have three laid out in 2 x 2 formation lengthwise. I originally did it because I thought I'd buy a 4th but never did. If you're doing the ruler trick with a plane blade or whatever, then it's a better set up as you can access the middle stone. However, I find that I'm constantly spinning the board round to get at whichever stone I need (although I placed medium and fine along the same edge as I don't always need the coarse for touch up) and so Paul's clamping edge is no use for my set up. I prefer my setup for doing the underside of a chisel, for the reasons you state. You can lay a chisel flat across all three stones and not sharpen without issue as the handle protrudes off the edge of the board and doesn't catch.
Have you got any pictures?
I'm trying to make one out of a bamboo wood chopping board. But I don't have a hand router like that, I'm just using a chisel. Did you ever make a video of, the making of a poor man's hand router, it would be great to see it if you did. Wish I had more time to watch you, but this time of year, it's gardening that takes up my time.
Best wishes Geoff Maddison
He has: ruclips.net/video/B_2a_FwjAgk/видео.html
What brand of diamond plate did you use?
I've been thinking of getting in to "freestyle honing" for a while. How long is it typically before one has to replace the plates if one assumes they're used on a daily basis? How long do yours last Paul?
Different diamond stones have different durability. I use DMT Diasharp bench stones, and I believe Paul Sellers uses EZElap. Both are high quality. With an average of five minutes of daily use, they last several years. The nickel plating holding the diamonds in place will eventually wear, and you either get streaking or "dead" areas and uneven sharpening. But with daily use, you still get years before that happens. A "normal" user might expect at least five to ten years, I would guess.
If longevity is a concern, nothing beats Arkansas stones. They can be re-surfaced, and the denser ones can last a hundred years if you don't crack or chip them. But they also require much more work to sharpen with, so diamond is a better choice for most people.
Apart from the diamond stones - which I presume are expensive,Paul just uses ordinary tools. For instance, he could use a quick release vice, but instead chooses one in which you wind it in and out. Similarly, he could use a Veritas hand router, which is expensive, but has a few features that cheaper ones don't - such as a depth stop. Instead, his router is made by either Record or Stanley - just like the one I use.
Actually, Mr. Sellers is quite fond of quick-release vises, heh. But your point stands, nonetheless. :-)
Is there a good method to do this for someone that does not have a router plane? I was thinking maybe i build it out of 2 pieces of plywood, so the top layer can just have all the material cut out, then glue it ontop of a solid piece.
Paul I was watching your presentation on the plate holder and I was wondering if it would be quicker and easier to use a chisel to get out the bulk of the waste and then follow up with the router plane.
Daryl Metheny
What if you took to much out before the router?
You can’t add wood back but you can clay.😊
What kind of stones are recommended? Which brands?
Paul recently retired and took a interest in woodworking. Small things bird houses etc. I see you have so much more control using that hand router and chisels as opposed to a router. I will attempt to recreate a sharpening holder. Can I use 3/4 Material (pine) as opposed to cabinet grade ply. Just curious.
Thank you for your videos
Hi Paul, may I ask where do you buy your diamond sharpening plates , what brand are they?
Becky Shaw eze lap or dmt
Nice!
Any chance of you posting a photograph (or a diagram) of the plate that you have attached to the bottom of your router plane? Thanks ☺ Ooops!!! After a bit more reading down the page, I found a link to the making of the wooden sole. Silly me!
@Paul Sellers : You mentioned sealing the holder. You also gave examples of Danish Oil and Shellac. Would Linseed Oil work too? Thank you!
Great video. Question can you use a 2x10 or 2x 12 lumber instead of ply wood ( if you dont have any ply wood laying around)?
Yes just be prepared for it to cut and bow when used extensively for long periods of sharpening. Plywood has the advantage of remaining flat in wet conditions.
Hi Paul. I am from Nottingham and have only just discovered your videos, they are awesome, i have been woodworking for a few years and am a keen, but amateur carver , i love the plate sharpeners, where do you buy those plates? Ive looked around and cant seem to find them online. Any help would be appreciated. Keep up the good work. Love the vlogs by the way, the latest on was very true and is how a lot of people are feeling. You have given my some real inspiration . Thanks
Yes, I’d like to get similar plates too. Did you locate them in UK ? I live near Matlock 😊
Great Channel Paul! Thank you for sharing! What are the diamond plates that you are using? Keep up the great work!
Hi, I am really enjoying your videos! I was wondering why you chose plywood for this project? Is there a specific reason? Thank you
What about lapping /sharpening the flat part of a chisel whose edge is far out of flush with the blade? Wouldn’t it make more sense to leave an edge of each plate free so you could run the whole length? Aside from that objection, thanks mr sellers, cool to see the router plane on plywood
By edge I mean handle
Where do you purchase the diamond plates please?
What kind of plain is this I have never seen one before?
I know it would never happen because the world of hollywood tv would be so anti-climatic to Paul's beautiful, calm, real world. But sometimes I see him with a TV show like Masterchef or Forged in Iron. It'd be a hit.
Hi,
Happy to follow you. Thanks for all your nice and clear explanations.
Which trade stone are you using ?
I already have some but easy to hill them as they are certainly poor quality.
Thanks!
Mat
Did you add the board that is under your hand router? I just bought one but it is very small, only 3 1/4" from the center of the hand knobs. It looks easier with the board under it but I don't have any holes to screw through it. Can I glue one on?
But what stops the router blade from cutting into the edges and sides?
What you make is impressive enough but what you don't make is even more so, dust, dust and more dust! It's worth the extra ten minutes spent hand cutting to avoid the hour's cleanup that follows every use of electric tools!
Hi Paul loving your videos thank you. What brand router plane is that?
How to prevent then to rust? I am from Brazil....please help me with some infortation aplaiable around here
Could someone please tell me what brand of router he is using?
It's a Stanley #71 with a 1/2" board screwed to the bottom.
Can u make one with just chissels I don't have router please 😊
3½ years ago this was made but I have no idea where Paul got his diamond plates from. All the ones I have seen in March 2021 have not so good reviews. They are either are or become rusty, are not flat or the diamond covering comes or is coming off after 4 or 5 chisels have been sharpened. Most of the ones I have seen are a lot smaller at 150mm x 50mm and are not the longer and wider ones as shown here. This can be a far size outlay for a smallish budget so obviously would like value for money as in they will not lose their abrasive surface after half a dozen sharpens and are flat enough for plane irons. Anyone got any suggestions? Thank you.
Paul where can we buy the sharpening stones?
I am a beginner. I just bought the Veritas honing guide and DMT diamond stones for sharpening my chisels and irons. I've been drooling over Paul's block, but am concerned that it wouldn't work well with a guide, as there needs to be room to move the guide back and forth on the stones. Therefore, I might only have 4 inches of stone making contact with the blades.
Comments/suggestions?
Nope! It works fine and you can reverse the guide to even out the wear surface as I often do.
What brand of glass cleaner can be used in the US? My dollar store doesn’t carry any? Is there something specific to avoid, or will any work?
Would it not be easier to just put wooden beading around the diamond plate and screw/glue the beading onto the hardwood board ? You would only need 4 short lengths, no need to contact entire perimeter of the diamond block.
Thank you for building the holder - What are the plates grit numbers? - you said normal, medium, fine - is it 250, 3000, 8000 gritThanks Tony Aratema
Hi Tony. It's 250, 600 and 1200.
Hi Paul, how easy is it to unseat the plates once you have seated them with silicone without damaging the board edge, Kind regards and thanks for your time.
The plates just pop out with no adhesion issues. It's purely the cushioning that I want/need really.
Great video what is the make of your sharpening plates and where could I purchase a set from. Thanks.
How would you do this if you did not have a Hand router?
You could take a thin strip of wood and cut segments around your diamond plates and then glue them to the base.
I tried this with a small router plane and it was difficult because the opening was wider than the plane base. I guess I'll have to try making a wider base for my router plane as it seems you have. In the meantime I'll cheat and use a small power router to hog away most of the material. 🤭
instead of inlaying the plates, why not just get some thin project board, cut out the plate holes and glue it to a sheet of plywood? unless its just a scrap piece of plywood that is the correct size already obviously.
You can use which ever method you like.
I like this idea since I don’t yet have a router plane or good sharp chisels. That’s why I need the plate holder! :)
That's my plan but nevertheless I get satisfaction in watching Paul's videos and it helps learning new methods and techniques.
Hi Paul. I love that routing plane(?) you are using. What is it called, where can you get one and how much do they cost? Thanks!
Router planes are expensive as f*ck. A brand new ones cost as much or more than regular electric routers.
Check out the Stanley No. 71
Penny Lyons I really love that plane as well, truly a beautiful tool.
It's a Stanley No. 71 They have become expensive to buy. You can make a a wooden router plane using an Allen key as a cutter. I have one on my channel if you are looking for ideas. Easy to make and you only need a few scraps of material. Not much to lose except a bit of time and mine works great. I use it all the time.
check out the "poor man's router" on Mr Sellers channel, it's just a chisel in a block of wood
This is beautiful. A question. Would it be easier to clamp the stones before you scribe them?
I don’t think it’s necessary but if slippy is an issue, i don’t see why you wouldn’t clamp them.
Thank you Paul.
Trick of the trade: Always have a small chunk of putty nearby. A couple of tacks of putty, and things won't slip; reducing the need for clamps. I have a small cup with a chunk of putty, a chunk of stropping compound, and a chunk of beeswax, because those three are always useful.
what about water getting caught in the wood and rusting the stones?
So I decided to invest in these diamond stones. I can get the DMTs pretty easily. Shall I go for extra coarse, fine and extrafine, or coarse, fine and extrafine? I was thinking that the extra coarse grit (220 mesh) might be too aggressive and might not use it so often? Coarse is a 325 mesh that finds a more general use perhaps?
Forgive my naive question - been sharpening with sandpaper so far...
I'd recommend a coarse like the 325 and a super fine like 1200. You don't need a plate in between. Two stones + a strop is a good setup, and if you hone very frequently just with the strop you don't really need a coarse stone, unless you often happen to have a very bad edge
Hi Stefano. Thank you for your comment. I wouldn’t go for extra coarse, coarse is sufficiently coarse enough.
Thank you Paul. I'll need to pull out my credit card now :)
Seconded. When you need extra coarse, a file is usually the better choice.
It depends on what you sharpen. 1200 isn't fine enough for some uses, like fine carving tools, and leaves streaks too big for light stropping to remove - you have to really go at it with compound for a while to get the streaks out, and doing that rounds the edge slightly too.
But for chisels and bench plane blades, 1200 is more than good enough.
What make are the stones/plates as they must be single sided.
EXcellent master work, as always, Mr. Sellers!!! I was wondering if these sharpening plates would crack while trying to unseat?
And, exactly how would you go about unseating them? I don't know how sturdy they are, because I have never seen or used
these before. (I'm just a beginner.) Is it advisable to treat the wood with tung oil or danish oil before inserting the plates? Or, would that make the adhesive not stick?
Thank you for freely bringing your lifelong craft to the world. I have viewed every single one of your videos, and have some head knowledge, but, not much time for practicing right now. God bless you :-D
Hi Kathleen. Thank you for your comment. They won’t crack because they are plate steel and the bedding material does not really glue them but more cushions them and they usually come away quite easily. You can use polyurethane, tung oil or Danish oil.
Hello Paul where could I get the 250 600 1200 diamond plates from ? I'm finding it hard to find any online
First of all, thanks for another great video! I have a question about plywood and the fact that it is going to be wet. Should I consider to ensure the tightness between the stone and the wood? Or my point is just an unuseful detail? Thank in advance!
Which one to buy first , a closed throat or a open throat router?
Personally, I would buy an open throat that way you will only need the one and you will never have to buy a second one.
I am a newbie to this type of work what type of plane /tool is using here to shave off the layers of ply?
That's called a router plane, here's Paul's Q&A video about them: ruclips.net/video/gUyDYbIdq2E/видео.html
Which diamond plates can you recommend? Seems there is a lot of rubbish out there or they are too small. what do you use? Thank you
Most people that use diamond plates like the DMT plates or EZE lap.
Are you using a straight cutter for this?
Would it be worth raising the middle stone a mm or two so that you can flatten a blade back without hitting the outer stones?
I felt that there was no benefit to that so I always had them all level and it works perfectly