Good point about making a list. One time I replaced a dash in a Porsche 944, about a 10 hour job. Never did it before. The best advice I got was to have about 100 zip lock baggies. As I took bolts and pieces off I would number the steps and put the parts in the bag. When I was done, I just reversed the order and wasn't confused what parts went where and never lost a part. In the past, I always just threw parts down and was confused on what went where or ended up with an extra screw. If your a novice like me, it helps to be organized on a big job.
Pretty good but you did the timing belt incorrectly, you have to separate the cam pulleys from the cams and leave them loose with the bar in place while you tension the belt, then you tighten the cam pulleys, take the bar off, then spin the engine twice. If you don't, your timing will always end up a few teeth off.
I agree with you, and I have done that in the past- however, I have also discovered that there are times when the old belt hadn't stretched excessively, and after spinning the engine, the timing was still dead on. This is of course taking a chance- you are correct that it should be done every time. Good catch!
Great Video. I have a 2004 A8 that only has 68k on her but due to age needs the belt done. Ive gotta do the dreaded oil cooler heat pipe fix so I thought I would suck it up and do the timing belt-water pump replacement at that time. Other than sorting out an intermittent emergency brake warning the car will be completely sorted. Thanks again. I'm definitely subscribing.
Very informative video. I own the face lift 2005 model after yours with the 4.2Lt V8 BFM motor here in Australia and in the near future i am looking at doing my timing belt etc plus a coolant pipe replacement for the oil cooler. I was hoping you would have shown the full removal procedure for the front of the car this would have been a bonus as I have a fairly good understanding of the Timing belt and other parts needed for replacement but the front of the car removal procedure is a bit elusive. I do have Elsawin & Etka for reference but seeing the way you have filmed it is a lot easier to understand. If you have any more info or video about the front removal procedure it would be greatly appreciated also you mention in the comments that you had made your own T40005 Camshaft Alignment Locking Holder, being a retired Maintenance Toolmaker I am interested in how you made yours. Did you use Genuine Audi replacement parts or aftermarket, please advise. Thanks for your time. Cheers.
Grant, I did make a video to put the car in service mode and disassemble the front. You will find that here- ruclips.net/video/pwVMVAENzlc/видео.html I did talk about how I made my camshaft tool at some point- I think I made a comment on another video about the details- but here is the short version-I took a piece of metal the right length marked and cut the holes to be centered over the bolts on the cams. Then I got 4 machine screws with nuts- making sure that they are the size of the slotted holes. 2 larger and 2 smaller. I drilled the holes to fit the slotted holes on each side. Now mind you- it is better to make it at TDC, but I made mind at BDC. It is a matter of whether the big holes are on the outside or inside.It will work either way, as the important thing is to make sure the cams stay in a fixed position. You could probably make a better tool than me! I use genuine Audi parts when I can but sometime they are expensive, so I look for alternatives. I will buy the lifetime warranty parts, so I don't have to buy them again, but sometimes they don't last as well, but at least I don't have to purchase them again. Hope this helps!
Great content, I try to replace timing belt on my Audi A8, but when I remove the cover I have notice that the timing belt have play with the engine in off position,is that normal.
How much play are we talking about? The tensioner should keep the belt firm and tight, but I suppose you may be able to squeeze it a little with your fingers, but not very much at all.
The car have not run for 2weeks , I don’t know is it not enough of oil pressure because of it been sitting too long, car run find , I check the timing belt it still looking good , just because it has 110000 miles on them , belt play when you put your finger on and push down I would say it about 3/4 to 1.00” from each side of the cam.thanks in advance
How many days/hours did it take you to complete this repair? On a scale of 1-10 with 10 being most difficult would you say this repair is? I replaced my own Air Struts in My 2011 A8L and that was pretty easy for the most part.
I had thought about that, but with different specs on different versions of the same engine, I want to make sure they look it up for their particular engine in the actual manual. Perhaps a link to the manual would help in the future- thanks for your insight.
When you buy a bracket to hold the cam shafts in place, you should also get the lock for the crank shaft- this is best. I made my own bracket, and when I did, I had it at BDC for number 1 cylinder instead of TDC. It still works fine, but I have to make sure the crank is in the right place since I cannot lock it. I double check the positions of everything, and triple check everything once it is in place before I move the engine at all. Perhaps I will make a new bracket at some point, but for now it works just fine. The real key is that the cams are in the right position for the crank. That could be any given position, but you have to be able to replicate it easily, and know that your cams are correct. That is the purpose of the camshaft bracket. You can also paint a tooth of the crankshaft gear to make sure it is in the same position. Hope this helps-
JD, I have done it both ways- choose to do it or not based on what you find while you are replacing your timing belt, or what has been disconnected. Let me explain- the factory approved method is to loosen the cam sprockets, because there is some variance in the belts, and the only way to make sure that the timing is absolutely perfect is to install the belt with the sprockets loose and the camshafts in the perfect position. Then when the belt is installed, and the sprockets are cinched down, there is no possibility of the cams moving a little as the teeth match up. This is why they say to do it. This is also why the camshaft sprockets have no key-way. The time you can get away with not loosening the sprockets are when you are reinstalling the same belt, but really, that is not recommended either. If you install a new belt without loosening the sprockets, then you may have one ever so slightly off, and while in may not be much, it may rob your engine of running perfectly smooth, or a very slight loss of power. Now, you may be ok with either of those, but if you want it exactly right, then take the time and frustration of doing this step. Since you have the car apart, why not try and make it the best you can?
@@TheAmericanGarage1 yes thank you I fully (for once lol) understand why the sprockets are popped lose so they free spin, I was just trying to simplify if possible. My main issue now is I had a water pump bolt snap at the top of the pump. I tried extracting it, then drilling, then drilling and taping. My hole ended up crooked from the bolt walking the bit. I over sized it by alot and now its less crooked but the material is thin, im afraid if I tap it may crack around the drilled hole. Hopefully I can fix it with no coolant leaks. I started with a cam chain tensioner that turned into a timing belt job since I was there. It had another 4 years, I should of left it! You made it look easy Steve but my rusted hardware is winning!
@@TheAmericanGarage1 Steve Im having some issues with my belt install. I removed the cam sprockets completely and then slid them on loose. I followed the manual and set the belt. Torqued the sprockets with the bolt and eccentric washer. I had a wobble on both and the belt was slightly hanging off each sprocket. I did tap them in place with a mallet and I'm not sure if that's my issue. Should I just torque the sprockets with the bolts and let the eccentric washer seat the sprockets ?
It is and it isn't- Yes, the 4.2 V8 is essentially the same engine, but the later model went to a timing chain instead of a timing belt. When I bought mine, I looked into this. While the timing belt is a hassle to have to replace periodically, it is far easier to maintain, and repair in the event of failure. Of course, belt failure will mean bent valves and a head job, but failure of the timing chain is a phenomenal headache- with bent valves. The chain is mounted on the back of the engine and requires the removal of the engine and transmission. If you are going to maintain yourself, the belt version is a much better choice- my opinion.
Good point about making a list. One time I replaced a dash in a Porsche 944, about a 10 hour job. Never did it before. The best advice I got was to have about 100 zip lock baggies. As I took bolts and pieces off I would number the steps and put the parts in the bag. When I was done, I just reversed the order and wasn't confused what parts went where and never lost a part. In the past, I always just threw parts down and was confused on what went where or ended up with an extra screw. If your a novice like me, it helps to be organized on a big job.
Pretty good but you did the timing belt incorrectly, you have to separate the cam pulleys from the cams and leave them loose with the bar in place while you tension the belt, then you tighten the cam pulleys, take the bar off, then spin the engine twice. If you don't, your timing will always end up a few teeth off.
I agree with you, and I have done that in the past- however, I have also discovered that there are times when the old belt hadn't stretched excessively, and after spinning the engine, the timing was still dead on. This is of course taking a chance- you are correct that it should be done every time. Good catch!
Great Video. I have a 2004 A8 that only has 68k on her but due to age needs the belt done. Ive gotta do the dreaded oil cooler heat pipe fix so I thought I would suck it up and do the timing belt-water pump replacement at that time. Other than sorting out an intermittent emergency brake warning the car will be completely sorted. Thanks again. I'm definitely subscribing.
I have to say I know where your garage is. I will be glad to drop off my car because you have so much patience.
great channel. great content.
Thank you Victor!
Nice video ;) ty for help
Very informative video. I own the face lift 2005 model after yours with the 4.2Lt V8 BFM motor here in Australia and in the near future i am looking at doing my timing belt etc plus a coolant pipe replacement for the oil cooler. I was hoping you would have shown the full removal procedure for the front of the car this would have been a bonus as I have a fairly good understanding of the Timing belt and other parts needed for replacement but the front of the car removal procedure is a bit elusive. I do have Elsawin & Etka for reference but seeing the way you have filmed it is a lot easier to understand. If you have any more info or video about the front removal procedure it would be greatly appreciated also you mention in the comments that you had made your own T40005 Camshaft Alignment Locking Holder, being a retired Maintenance Toolmaker I am interested in how you made yours. Did you use Genuine Audi replacement parts or aftermarket, please advise. Thanks for your time. Cheers.
Grant, I did make a video to put the car in service mode and disassemble the front. You will find that here- ruclips.net/video/pwVMVAENzlc/видео.html
I did talk about how I made my camshaft tool at some point- I think I made a comment on another video about the details- but here is the short version-I took a piece of metal the right length marked and cut the holes to be centered over the bolts on the cams. Then I got 4 machine screws with nuts- making sure that they are the size of the slotted holes. 2 larger and 2 smaller. I drilled the holes to fit the slotted holes on each side. Now mind you- it is better to make it at TDC, but I made mind at BDC. It is a matter of whether the big holes are on the outside or inside.It will work either way, as the important thing is to make sure the cams stay in a fixed position. You could probably make a better tool than me! I use genuine Audi parts when I can but sometime they are expensive, so I look for alternatives. I will buy the lifetime warranty parts, so I don't have to buy them again, but sometimes they don't last as well, but at least I don't have to purchase them again. Hope this helps!
Great content, I try to replace timing belt on my Audi A8, but when I remove the cover I have notice that the timing belt have play with the engine in off position,is that normal.
How much play are we talking about? The tensioner should keep the belt firm and tight, but I suppose you may be able to squeeze it a little with your fingers, but not very much at all.
The car have not run for 2weeks , I don’t know is it not enough of oil pressure because of it been sitting too long, car run find , I check the timing belt it still looking good , just because it has 110000 miles on them , belt play when you put your finger on and push down I would say it about 3/4 to 1.00” from each side of the cam.thanks in advance
How many days/hours did it take you to complete this repair?
On a scale of 1-10 with 10 being most difficult would you say this repair is?
I replaced my own Air Struts in My 2011 A8L and that was pretty easy for the most part.
Can a timing belt 4.2L V8 A8L motor be put into a 2010 Audi A8 L ???
My 2004 is now at 543 000km. I'm due for a timing belt soon
good video but i wish you would have added the torque specs for the job. i try to in all my videos. really helps people diy projects
I had thought about that, but with different specs on different versions of the same engine, I want to make sure they look it up for their particular engine in the actual manual. Perhaps a link to the manual would help in the future- thanks for your insight.
definitely, if you could send me that link pls.. im getting ready to do this job same motor and i need to look up the torque specs.
Awesome video thanks for doing this. My crank lock hole and the timing mark on the pulley does not line up, is it best to go by the lock hole?
When you buy a bracket to hold the cam shafts in place, you should also get the lock for the crank shaft- this is best. I made my own bracket, and when I did, I had it at BDC for number 1 cylinder instead of TDC. It still works fine, but I have to make sure the crank is in the right place since I cannot lock it. I double check the positions of everything, and triple check everything once it is in place before I move the engine at all. Perhaps I will make a new bracket at some point, but for now it works just fine. The real key is that the cams are in the right position for the crank. That could be any given position, but you have to be able to replicate it easily, and know that your cams are correct. That is the purpose of the camshaft bracket. You can also paint a tooth of the crankshaft gear to make sure it is in the same position. Hope this helps-
@@TheAmericanGarage1 Hey Steve when you did your timing belt did you pull the cam sprockets lose? Is that necessary? Most people say that you should
JD, I have done it both ways- choose to do it or not based on what you find while you are replacing your timing belt, or what has been disconnected. Let me explain- the factory approved method is to loosen the cam sprockets, because there is some variance in the belts, and the only way to make sure that the timing is absolutely perfect is to install the belt with the sprockets loose and the camshafts in the perfect position. Then when the belt is installed, and the sprockets are cinched down, there is no possibility of the cams moving a little as the teeth match up. This is why they say to do it. This is also why the camshaft sprockets have no key-way. The time you can get away with not loosening the sprockets are when you are reinstalling the same belt, but really, that is not recommended either. If you install a new belt without loosening the sprockets, then you may have one ever so slightly off, and while in may not be much, it may rob your engine of running perfectly smooth, or a very slight loss of power. Now, you may be ok with either of those, but if you want it exactly right, then take the time and frustration of doing this step. Since you have the car apart, why not try and make it the best you can?
@@TheAmericanGarage1 yes thank you I fully (for once lol) understand why the sprockets are popped lose so they free spin, I was just trying to simplify if possible. My main issue now is I had a water pump bolt snap at the top of the pump. I tried extracting it, then drilling, then drilling and taping. My hole ended up crooked from the bolt walking the bit. I over sized it by alot and now its less crooked but the material is thin, im afraid if I tap it may crack around the drilled hole. Hopefully I can fix it with no coolant leaks. I started with a cam chain tensioner that turned into a timing belt job since I was there. It had another 4 years, I should of left it! You made it look easy Steve but my rusted hardware is winning!
@@TheAmericanGarage1 Steve Im having some issues with my belt install. I removed the cam sprockets completely and then slid them on loose. I followed the manual and set the belt. Torqued the sprockets with the bolt and eccentric washer. I had a wobble on both and the belt was slightly hanging off each sprocket. I did tap them in place with a mallet and I'm not sure if that's my issue. Should I just torque the sprockets with the bolts and let the eccentric washer seat the sprockets ?
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Is this the same as a 08 a8l 4.2 Fsi?
It is and it isn't- Yes, the 4.2 V8 is essentially the same engine, but the later model went to a timing chain instead of a timing belt. When I bought mine, I looked into this. While the timing belt is a hassle to have to replace periodically, it is far easier to maintain, and repair in the event of failure. Of course, belt failure will mean bent valves and a head job, but failure of the timing chain is a phenomenal headache- with bent valves. The chain is mounted on the back of the engine and requires the removal of the engine and transmission. If you are going to maintain yourself, the belt version is a much better choice- my opinion.