Replacing Front Discs and Pads on a Range Rover l322
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Following on from the tyre rotation video, we set about changing the brakes. New discs and pads on the front, quite an easy job. And, they were worn below the advised limit. #rangerover #rangerovertdv8 #rangeroverl322
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I was looking at the wrong manual. I have the 2007-2010, but my facelift (3.6)2010 is in the 4.4TDV8 manual. Caliper carrier to hub bolts should be a whooping 275nm, might just give them another tweak.
I'd recommend using the old brake pad to push both pistons in. Saves a lot of the trouble of doing them one by one and also will prevent the popping out. Great video either way!
A bit more maintenance on the old chugger boom.
hi Ben, L322 maintenance is critical as we have found out on these cars, keep on top of everything and hopefully no orrible surprises ,great work. keep the videos coming, Paul.
Thank you very much - brilliant tutorial. At 55 I changed my brakes for the first time, took it on the road and it works just fine 😊. My local LR dealer is notoriously (even more than usual) unreliable, so taking a car to A&L Motors is akin to playing Russian roulette. Now tell me how to reset the “brake pad low” light 😂
If a light has come on and won't go off after replacing the brakes, you may need to go in with a diagnostic scan tool to clear any codes.
Good one Ben!
Hi Ben, Just a side note. Please please always clean the wheel hub off, And never never use copper grease on the pads or the caliper. Copper grease will cause galvanic corrosion, its also not a lubricant. If you don't clean the disc to hub mounting face, you will get brake judder. Its also good practice to complete a disc runout check with a DTI after a new disc has been fitted. Its also best when pushing the pistons back into the caliper, clean the pistons off so that any foreign bodies don't go pass the dust seal. Use the old brake pad and crack off the caliper bleed nipple. This will stop the old brake fluid returning back to the master cylinder, thus not causing any damage to it. Keep up the good work mate.
10-12 4.4 tdv8 are 6 pot and pads go inside the caliper
When you have to bring out your whitworth-tools, then you know you're working on Brit stuff! Nevertheless, I've replaced the rotors on my L322 and never had to bring out the exotic toolchest. I had the four-pot Brembo calipers on mine, but I'm sure the carrier is attached with the same hardware as yours. Last time I did Whitworth was on an Ariel W/NG 350, as far as i can remember.
Garage I did my apprenticeship at, we worked on a lot of old cars. Whitworth was quite common on those. Didn’t think I’d ever be using them on a 2010 RR.
great vid, i have lr322, error code shows to check brake pads, which have plenty of meat on them but will repace anywy, will i need to clear the code if i do this? trying to avoid purchasing eh obd reader which i know will be enevitable
Sounds like the pad wear sensor or wiring has gone bad. You shouldn't need an OBD tool for that job.
Did you disconnect the battery or do any fancy setting of the sensors before you started this? Or does it not effect the display screen readings? It seems that everything you do on an L322 gives you a warning display, I know you have a resetter to cancel these out. Chris B.
No, nothing fancy required. The ABS sensor doesn't get touched when your changing the discs and pads, the only other sensor would be in the top of the brake master cylinder, and that only lets you know the brake fluid is low.
@@Bensgarage Thanks for the feedback Ben, I have not yet got a resetter device so I was a bit wary about hacking into the brake system without one, I changed the front tyres last week and now I have a "do not exceed 70 MPH" notice on the display, at least our 43 deg temperatures have dropped now in the Lot! Take care! Chris B.
@@453421abcdefg12345 I would check the tyre pressures, if you have just had some tyres fitted. Sounds like either the tyre pressures are incorrect, or one of your TPMS sensors was damaged in the fitting of the tyres.
@@Bensgarage That is a good point about tyre pressure, I thought it was because the wheels were dangling down and the computer had gone over high limits(I did not open the door to prevent that! Chis B.
Thanks for this useful video Ben. I have often wondered: should one lubricate the bolts before inserting them? I have never done this to brakes & I don't think you did. It would mean they should not seize in their holes. However, because of the lower friction the tightening torque might be greater than specified. Any thoughts?
No, I’ve only ever lubricated the parts of the pads that contact the carrier, and also the caliper slides if it has them. For the fixings I’ve seen people using thread lock, so wouldn’t normally warrant any extra torque.
Great video Ben! Sorry to be that guy that asks dumb questions. It’s about the jacking points on the l322. I know about the main ones close to each wheel for tire changing, but I’m not sure other places where a floor jack can go or safe places to lift with say a floor jack. On this video it looked like you used a floor jack and a jack stand. Could you show exactly where these contact the chassis in a future video?
A bit late for an answer but I just use the floor jack where you're supposed to when using the one in the trunk in case you get a flat tire. There's a hole where the original jack fits in. Seems like a solid place to lift the car up. I guess you can put the jack stand next to it. It's part of the chassis so that would be the most solid points. It's not a silly question by the way. Super important to jack a car correctly not to go and break stuff or have the car fall on the ground. Pretty much every mechanic fucked up at least once lifting a car. I'm not a pro by any means but this is where I lift to change summer/winter tires. Gotta make sure your jack lifts high enough. Bought one that lifts at 50cm to be sure. Last time I tried to change the discs I couldn't remove the damn things because they were so stuck with rust.
Iv got l320 07 with front 6 pots did I get lucky
Did you get lucky? Yes and no. Yes you have a bit more stopping power, but not so lucky if you have to replace the brakes and /or calipers. They are quite expensive.
Either I wasn't paying attention or you didn't push back the pistons Ben?
Yes they went back, one almost pushed the other out as I was explaining not to watch out for it happening.
What’s the socket type size for the caliper mount?
I think it was 21mm. there might be a special socket for it, but I just used a 12 point socket. ( it might also have been a 22mm, I can't remember)
@@Bensgarage thanks. Without a 12-point, it was a deal killer for the time being. Would’ve liked a hex back there.
@@dpf1119 well they wouldn’t make life easy, luckily I had a socket the fit straight on.
Do you typically change the rotors with every brake pad swap or every other job?
There is a minimum thickness for the brake discs/rotors, so I tend to change them when there are at or close to that thickness. Pads I change more often, especially on these Range Rovers.