A picture is truly worth a thousand words. You didn’t say a thing but your video helped more than words can say. Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video, I appreciate your effort.
I've been using this since its introduction. Today, after a caliber change, I was not getting full rotation of the drum resulting in light drops. 1:04 of this video helped me imensly
Thanks for the video. I think the Lee instruction manual is very lacking and I found your video very helpful with one exception. If I am wrong, please correct me. I am setting up the Auto Drum on my Dillon 550C. In order to get the proper flare on my 45acp cases, that little black square block that you stated not to let it touch the top of the slot at 43 seconds in the video, I had to let it touch. Once I did, it gave me just enough flare to hold the bullet on top of the case to seat it. Other than that, it worked flawlessly and threw very consistent powder drops. Im using Universal at 5.2 grains and all Lee carbide dies. The Universal powder that I am using never leaked. I am actually very impressed. At this time, I actually like the simplicity of the Lee Auto Drum much better than my Dillon powder measure. I'm going to get a Lee Auto Drum for each of the rest of my tool heads. Just for the record, I still like the Dillon powder measures but they cost a lot more than the Lee Auto Drum. Once again, thanks so much for the video.
Hi Eric! Thank you for you kind words about my video. They are much appreciated. In regards to your question, I try and research my video content before making them. Sometimes I miss things. However, if you look at the Lee manual, page 4, it states that "slider drop tube should not make contact with top of slot". You can also see this manual online at this link: leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/90811.pdf Dillon makes good stuff and I have a number of friends like you that like the Lee Auto Drum for use on them. Happy Reloading!!
@@reloadersinfochannel6976 Thanks. I did see it but if I make it so that the black square doesn't touch the top of the slide, I don't get any flare. I'll play with my setup more today but I am at a loss as to how to get the flare any other way. Do you get an acceptable amount of flare when you use your Lee Auto Drum without the square hitting the top of the slide?
@@echampine Yes, I get a very nice flare on my 45 cases. I lube all my cases, yes, even with carbide dies. This makes things work so much better, including flare.
@@reloadersinfochannel6976 I'll take back my last statement. After further review, I was able to slip a piece of paper in between the metal and the black block on the slide and move the piece of paper around freely. It looks like it is touching but it actually isn't. I am very happy with the results. Thanks for your video and help. Very much appreciated.
I am having exactly the same problem with my auto drum on 45 acp. I’ve jacked up the die as far as I can without causing final contact. I’m afraid that the spring in the auto drum is too weak to bell the neck. I hope someone finds a fix. Maybe shimming the spring to provide a hard stop. I’m calling lee tomorrow.
I'm having problems with this for .357 Sig. I can't seem to get a full rotation of the drum without causing excessive flare on the brass. If I get a full rotation I get a huge flare. If I get a slight flare, the drum won't fully rotate. What am I doing wrong?
I know this is an old post, but I'll reply anyway in case it helps you or others. I have been having the same problem so I wrote to Lee. The excessive flare of the case mouth is caused by the extremely stiff return spring. Lee says that there is no getting around this and the only solution is to use brass that has thicker cas walls... Not much of a solution, but there you have it. At least you know you aren't doing something wrong.
I can't turn the little knurled wheel on the bottom of the measure as easy as you can. I can't turn it at all when the powder measure is snug in the riser or charging die.
I cannot get the measure to drop powder. Dies are set as per Lee. Powder is in the drum. When I send the case up into the die, no powder is dispensed. The drum does not move. Any suggestions?
If you still have the disconnector in place, the drum won't move unless you reset the disconnector. If you already have the disconnector removed, you must make sure the screw is placed in the position on this video behind the connecting rod. If you don't the connecting rod can jump out and you will again not activate the drum.
Alan, the red reservoir on top needs to be turned counter clockwise to open, so it will drop powder. Then when you want to finish your session and clean the drum, turn the red reservoir clockwise to shut off powder flow. It can be removed to pour excess powder back into its container. The powder measure may also be emptied by charging cases until it is empty, or unscrew the powder measure from the press and tip it over the powder jug. leeprecision.com/files/instruct/90811.pdf Page 7 of owners manual.
I have followed these steps and H110 powder leaks no matter what. I hit the inside of the drum area where it makes contact with dry graphite powder. I even returned one and bought a brand new one thinking I got a lemon. Let me know if you can get H110 working without leaking.
Hi David. I don't have any experience with Hodgdon H110 personally. I have friends that have. From what I understand H110 is extremely fine powder. Talking with my friend, it seems H110 leaks from most any powder measure, not just the Lee Auto Drum. I use a makeup brush my wife picked up for me. It works great for cleaning out any powder dust from my drum and the casting where the drum fits into on my Lee Auto Drum. I do this anytime I change from one powder type to another. I use to have some leaks going from flake type powders to fine powder like CFE 223. Since using the brush to clean before switch I have not experience any powder leaks.
Reloader's Info Channel Thanks for the reply. I made some slight adjustments and it leaks less now but still hasn't fixed the problem. For now I placed a white coffee filter beneath the drum to catch all the powder so it doesn't get all over the place.
I crush the mouths of 223 cases when I run the same case though 10 times to dial in a charge. also once in a while I'll hear a loud pop from the powder measure. you happen to run into any of the same issues?
Hi Craig. I have a few questions for you. There are a few things that could be causing the issue you described. After resizing your .223 cases do you trim them? If not, this could cause the neck on some cases to be crushed if they are too long. After sizing the cases they should be trimmed to 1.750". I'm not sure what would have caused the pop noise. I would suggest to make sure that the powder measure isn't bottoming out. There is the small black square that slides up and down in the housing slot on the side of the powder measure. It should never touch the top of the slot while the case is raise. I point to it in the video. If it is bottoming out in the slot this could cause the noise your speak of.
Thank you for the response. I will check today to see if it is bottoming out. Also I only trimmed cases to 1.760. This could be my issue...thanks again
Bryant, sorry you didn't like the music. It is royalty free music, so I don't get charged for it. There is a volume control that you could turn low or off.
Folks, there is a misconception going on here. If you use a USA .5 cent nickel, place it on the shell holder, raise your ram all the way up, then screw in your expander powder thru die till it touches the nickel, then turn 1/8 of a turn, lock it down, then just screw in the powder measure and you should be just fine.
I don't understand when you're trying to explain or demonstrate a very important procedure you don't use words instead of sign language if you don't know how to speak find somebody that does know how to speak
That is not a very kind comment. Me, I find the video quite clear, even though he chooses to use only images rather than speaking, of which I am otherwise quite certain he is most capable. It's just a different approach, and I am just grateful he posted it.
Finally. A clear video that actually shows how this auto drum works. Thank you.
The best explanation!! Thanks
Thank you!
A picture is truly worth a thousand words. You didn’t say a thing but your video helped more than words can say. Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video, I appreciate your effort.
Paul, thanks for your kind words. 👍
great video!
Great Video. Gave me a lot of help setting up my press and auto-drum
Thanks
Good video, thoughtful detail, not a lot of wasted time, good focus, thanks
I've been using this since its introduction. Today, after a caliber change, I was not getting full rotation of the drum resulting in light drops. 1:04 of this video helped me imensly
Joe, thanks for your feedback on the video. It is much appreciated.
Thanks for the video. I think the Lee instruction manual is very lacking and I found your video very helpful with one exception. If I am wrong, please correct me. I am setting up the Auto Drum on my Dillon 550C. In order to get the proper flare on my 45acp cases, that little black square block that you stated not to let it touch the top of the slot at 43 seconds in the video, I had to let it touch. Once I did, it gave me just enough flare to hold the bullet on top of the case to seat it. Other than that, it worked flawlessly and threw very consistent powder drops. Im using Universal at 5.2 grains and all Lee carbide dies. The Universal powder that I am using never leaked. I am actually very impressed. At this time, I actually like the simplicity of the Lee Auto Drum much better than my Dillon powder measure. I'm going to get a Lee Auto Drum for each of the rest of my tool heads. Just for the record, I still like the Dillon powder measures but they cost a lot more than the Lee Auto Drum. Once again, thanks so much for the video.
Hi Eric! Thank you for you kind words about my video. They are much appreciated. In regards to your question, I try and research my video content before making them. Sometimes I miss things. However, if you look at the Lee manual, page 4, it states that "slider drop tube should not make contact with top of slot". You can also see this manual online at this link: leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/90811.pdf
Dillon makes good stuff and I have a number of friends like you that like the Lee Auto Drum for use on them. Happy Reloading!!
@@reloadersinfochannel6976 Thanks. I did see it but if I make it so that the black square doesn't touch the top of the slide, I don't get any flare. I'll play with my setup more today but I am at a loss as to how to get the flare any other way.
Do you get an acceptable amount of flare when you use your Lee Auto Drum without the square hitting the top of the slide?
@@echampine Yes, I get a very nice flare on my 45 cases. I lube all my cases, yes, even with carbide dies. This makes things work so much better, including flare.
@@reloadersinfochannel6976 I'll take back my last statement. After further review, I was able to slip a piece of paper in between the metal and the black block on the slide and move the piece of paper around freely. It looks like it is touching but it actually isn't. I am very happy with the results. Thanks for your video and help. Very much appreciated.
I am having exactly the same problem with my auto drum on 45 acp. I’ve jacked up the die as far as I can without causing final contact. I’m afraid that the spring in the auto drum is too weak to bell the neck. I hope someone finds a fix. Maybe shimming the spring to provide a hard stop. I’m calling lee tomorrow.
Complimenti per il video anche senza parlare ti sei spiegato benissimo d’altronde di qua dell’Atlantico non tutti capiscono l’inglese 👍🏽
Thank You For Your Kind Words! It is much appreciated.
Just got one these and the video really helped. Thank You!
I am glad it helped monitor1862. That is what it is all about, helping. Happy reloading, have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
Reloader's Info Channel You Too!!
Thank you!!!👍
Thanks for the video.
I'm having problems with this for .357 Sig. I can't seem to get a full rotation of the drum without causing excessive flare on the brass. If I get a full rotation I get a huge flare. If I get a slight flare, the drum won't fully rotate. What am I doing wrong?
I know this is an old post, but I'll reply anyway in case it helps you or others. I have been having the same problem so I wrote to Lee. The excessive flare of the case mouth is caused by the extremely stiff return spring. Lee says that there is no getting around this and the only solution is to use brass that has thicker cas walls... Not much of a solution, but there you have it. At least you know you aren't doing something wrong.
Please explain how you drums on the inside are super shiny? All the Lee drums I've gotten don't look like that.
How do you adjust the amount of powder drops?
One note to if you drop the die adjustment it will flare the case more. Something to think about.
I can't turn the little knurled wheel on the bottom of the measure as easy as you can. I can't turn it at all when the powder measure is snug in the riser or charging die.
I cannot get the measure to drop powder. Dies are set as per Lee. Powder is in the drum. When I send the case up into the die, no powder is dispensed. The drum does not move. Any suggestions?
If you still have the disconnector in place, the drum won't move unless you reset the disconnector. If you already have the disconnector removed, you must make sure the screw is placed in the position on this video behind the connecting rod. If you don't the connecting rod can jump out and you will again not activate the drum.
Alan, the red reservoir on top needs to be turned counter clockwise to open, so it will drop powder. Then when you want to finish your session and clean the drum, turn the red reservoir clockwise to shut off powder flow. It can be removed to pour excess powder back into its container. The powder measure may also be emptied by charging cases until it is empty, or unscrew the powder measure from the press and tip it over the powder jug.
leeprecision.com/files/instruct/90811.pdf Page 7 of owners manual.
How do you adjust the amount of powder to be dropped?
thats what the key is for insert it into the set screw and turn trail and error till you get the right amount.
Shims. I use shims.
What can cause my brass to jump when Inserting a resized case??
Beans. Mexican jumping beans.
I would prefer narration over music, ...tell us about what ea drum does for what cal...etc
Thanks for your thoughts and feedback.
I have followed these steps and H110 powder leaks no matter what. I hit the inside of the drum area where it makes contact with dry graphite powder. I even returned one and bought a brand new one thinking I got a lemon. Let me know if you can get H110 working without leaking.
Hi David. I don't have any experience with Hodgdon H110 personally. I have friends that have. From what I understand H110 is extremely fine powder. Talking with my friend, it seems H110 leaks from most any powder measure, not just the Lee Auto Drum.
I use a makeup brush my wife picked up for me. It works great for cleaning out any powder dust from my drum and the casting where the drum fits into on my Lee Auto Drum. I do this anytime I change from one powder type to another. I use to have some leaks going from flake type powders to fine powder like CFE 223. Since using the brush to clean before switch I have not experience any powder leaks.
Reloader's Info Channel Thanks for the reply. I made some slight adjustments and it leaks less now but still hasn't fixed the problem. For now I placed a white coffee filter beneath the drum to catch all the powder so it doesn't get all over the place.
I crush the mouths of 223 cases when I run the same case though 10 times to dial in a charge. also once in a while I'll hear a loud pop from the powder measure. you happen to run into any of the same issues?
Hi Craig. I have a few questions for you. There are a few things that could be causing the issue you described. After resizing your .223 cases do you trim them? If not, this could cause the neck on some cases to be crushed if they are too long. After sizing the cases they should be trimmed to 1.750". I'm not sure what would have caused the pop noise. I would suggest to make sure that the powder measure isn't bottoming out. There is the small black square that slides up and down in the housing slot on the side of the powder measure. It should never touch the top of the slot while the case is raise. I point to it in the video. If it is bottoming out in the slot this could cause the noise your speak of.
Thank you for the response. I will check today to see if it is bottoming out. Also I only trimmed cases to 1.760. This could be my issue...thanks again
I'm sorry but i had to stop watching because of the annoying music
Bryant, sorry you didn't like the music. It is royalty free music, so I don't get charged for it. There is a volume control that you could turn low or off.
Folks, there is a misconception going on here. If you use a USA .5 cent nickel, place it on the shell holder, raise your ram all the way up, then screw in your expander powder thru die till it touches the nickel, then turn 1/8 of a turn, lock it down, then just screw in the powder measure and you should be just fine.
Ditch the irritating overly loud music and talk.
I don't understand when you're trying to explain or demonstrate a very important procedure you don't use words instead of sign language if you don't know how to speak find somebody that does know how to speak
That is not a very kind comment. Me, I find the video quite clear, even though he chooses to use only images rather than speaking, of which I am otherwise quite certain he is most capable. It's just a different approach, and I am just grateful he posted it.