@@fvgc454ss It doesn't tell you startup amps of motor for the refrigerator. It doesn't tell you draw on the backup when your electronics devices are not running. In addition, the actual performance of these backup devices isn't necessarily the rating. ..so, no, ohms law is not enough.
Finally, a really useful demonstration of what these batteries can power and for how long. I wish you had the thank you feature enabled on this video so that I could give you a monetary thank you.
I have the same model. I use it as battery back up for my hospital bed, air mattress, and iPad Pro because I am a quadriplegic. Every time we have had power outages, it has kept me going.
You're the only person that buys those things and shows real life applications, which shows exactly what people should expect. Great job 👍 It's so easy to slap a sticker with a number but that means absolutely nothing if you don't know what your devices draw.
we had a scheduled power cut a month ago in my neighborhood for three hrs due to works on the greed... I have a 1000w/h wind and solar powered station for my trips, so I plugged my fridge, radio [for my birds] my TV and computer... the screen said ''8 hrs left'' when it started... and 3 hrs later when the power came back it had ''7 hrs left'' in it... my neighbors watched me on my front porch drinking cold beers and browsing on my laptop, while the radio played music inside, and got impressed with my set-up... now some of them want to build their own...
I honestly thought it waa gonna say, when i plugged in my fridge, radio, TV and computer the second i pressed the power button the power pack had a nuclear burnout implosion
That is the most useful video. That gives us a real idea of what this generator might do. I realized that if you unplugged the fridge from time to time, avoided opening it much... might be able to nurse it along, keeping food cool for a longer period of time. And also means that if you thought you would be in the situation without power for days you would want a few of these generators, if you want to keep your fridge running.
Eco flow 2 or any other generator from eco flow would be well worth it. There’s a app and also a 5 year warranty for each new device and a 2 year warranty for refurbished units.
The fridge kicked on because you opened the door. We had a power cut for a week in the 1980s hurricane and just wrapped the whole freezer in blankets. (It was march in the UK and not very warm weather). We got 3 days before the temp really changed significantly (didnt open till it was on day 3). No solar panels back then. My camping fridge takes 60 watts upto about 140 watts but turns off to wait for the thermostat and we can run that from our 1040 w power station for around 4 days full time.
Yep, we had a long power cut due to flooding and just flat out didn't open the freezer. 3 or 4 days later, some items near the seal were semi-defrosted but fridge temp max. Food was all OK. Thanks for the blanket idea. If, god forbid, we get another long power cut there'll be gaffer taped quilts round that badboy.
Eh. This is not a fair statement. We lost power with helene and I used my royobi power inverter to power wifi so that I had internet on my phone. (Our cell service is horrible in my neighborhood). We would probably also put a fan or something on it as well.
What we'd normally do from power outage after a hurricane is setup fans blasting at full speed to keep cool. So everyone would have a personal fan right next to them rather than trying to run an AC unit. The generator would be sparingly used for the fans, fridge, and occasionally charging phones and that's basically it.
thank you for formatting the video this way. I am looking for a unit that can power my work from home setup in case of power outage. surprisingly hard to find plain info
A lot of these power banks have trouble showing consumption when it's super low. I think the threshold is around 15-20 watts. Also, your laptop and monitor are drawing like... 1/6th what a gaming PC would draw 😆, and it would have been best to pull the battery and run just off the power adapter if your laptop allows that kind of usage. In all though, extremely useful test, thank you for going through all the effort! I've been trying to decide what sort of small station I want with the hopes of getting just one that would be small enough for camping etc but also good enough for emergency fridge power. This helps a lot. Clearly the higher the draw the more efficient the battery usage.
This was a great demonstration. The only test I would take with a grain of salt is the AC test. Putting it on max cool ensures the compressor will run constantly, with more efficient units, set to a reasonable temperature where the unit can cycle, as its designed, considering you're testing for blackout conditions, you should get much longer run times.
🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️ bro, if you need to run a window ac, it will not cool enough to cycle on and off. It’s just to maintain you feeling cooled down for 2 hours. Even in a smaller room it won’t cool it to, say 70 degrees where it will shut down and restart later. These are just for a few hours of comfort not a whole day thing
In an outage, run the refrigerator until it cuts off. Unplug it. 4 hours later, plug it in again and run it till it cuts off. Modern refrigerator/freezers stay cold enough for food safety for about 4 hours. You can make a power station last much longer if you’re not running the refrigerator every time it drops a couple of degrees, as is the case when you’ve got normal AC power. I can keep my food safe for 2 and a half days with this method. And of course, DON’T open the door or you’ll lose a lot of cold air.
Don't forget some quality solar panels and a good wind turbine to keep them charged. I've seen a lot of people skimp on that then they complain it takes over a day to charge them.
With the Wi-Fi scenario, I would ditch the AC plugs and use the corresponding low-voltage type C plugs. That would significantly help the runtime since the AC inverter would not have to be used.
8:37 You should really try running your LOW WATTAGE devices via the DC outputs and see how much more of the battery's capacity you can use running the wi-fi without the undoubted conversion from dc to ac and back to dc again, I have to believe the internal losses to the inverter will be HUGE for the low wattage devices that are converting the AC back to DC I will also bet that your laptop would be more efficient from a DC power source.
I was about to mention this too. Depending on design details, pure-sinewave inverters typically consume 15 to 25W, sometimes more, just to keep themselves running (MSW is less, but brings other problems). This can easily exceed the consumption of small loads, hence ~36% measured efficiency. More & more small electronics these days can run directly from USB-C, but for those wanting specific DC voltages on a barrel connector, inexpensive adapters are available on Amazon, eBay & elsewhere. Many things can run directly from the 12V "car" socket also. My off-grid relatives have moved all their always-on stuff except their fridge/freezer to direct DC, allowing their whole-hose inverter to be shut down or left in "search" mode (waiting for an appliance to demand power) overnight, which saves quite a lot of battery every day.
@@jordanhazen7761 what if you've got a small device that you cannot power off of one of the USB ports? would it be worth buying a small inverter to connect to the 12v port and using that instead of the larger internal inverter? For example, your cable or fibre modem may not support power off of USB.
@@jnstroikIndustry standard for cable modems (pure modems, not integrated gateways) is 12V DC on a 5.5mm/2.1mm center-positive jack, and all such modems I've encountered have been happy with anything between about 10 - 15V, including a power station's DC output. For devices needing other voltages, search Amazon for "USB-C to DC Trigger Cable". Any USB-C output capable of charging a laptop can be commanded by the load device (adapter, in this case) to put out 5V, 9V, 12V, 15V, or 20V. Lower-spec USB-C ports meant only for phones and tablets cover only 5V, 9V, 12V options. Some fiber CPE "modems" (ONTs) do want 48VDC, though, well beyond USB-C's voltage selection range, so for those a DC-to-DC boost converter (12V to 48V) would be best. Another option, if you have a little electronics experience and are handy with a soldering iron, is to modify a cheap MSW inverter, bypassing its final H-bridge chopper circuit so that it doesn't invert any more, but merely steps up voltage to ~140V DC, which nearly all switch-mode power supplies labeled for 100-240V AC (for worldwide use) will run from perfectly, at improved efficiency and without the background hum/buzz otherwise typical of an MSW inverter. Such converters aren't sold commercially, at least not with a standard outlet, since plugging in an incompatible device, like something with a traditional linear transformer across the line (transformer = nearly a dead short to DC) could cause instant damage or even a fire hazard. Bypassing an MSW inverter's final stage may also defeat its overload protection, so if you do this mod, be sure to add a fuse on the output of 1A or less, along with an appropriate one (10A or so) on the 12V input if one's not already fitted.
@@jnstroik From my own experience, most devices like Wifi routers, modems and anything that uses an external power supply brick or wall-wart, is running on DC. Usually between 9-12 volts. You only need to buy or make a simple cable with a cigarette lighter plug on one end, and the appropriately sized DC jack on the other, and an adjustable buck/boost converter module (cheap off ebay or aliexpress) to get the right voltage the device needs. A good number of devices uses DC jacks sized 5.5mm X 2.5mm, 5.5mm X 2.1mm, or 4.0mm X 1.7mm.
Very helpful demonstration. I guess I can connect it to a TV and internet router at the same time? My TV is only useful during power outage if I have wifi 😊.
Bro I love your video reviews on this power station stuff, please can you review the ecoflow river 2. There's a lot of reviews on it but your are the only person that gives the full details and how long it runs.
I've taken some measurements on my gaming PC with a Kill-a-watt plug. Average watt consumption is ~ 450 watts (4080 Super + Ryzen 7950X3D) while gaming. Assume a run time that is slightly less but similar to the AC.
Finally I find someone who did this experiment for me. I can get a couple of these power stations for summer emergencies. THX. edit Price went up 50% OUCH
So if I gather this correctly, the power stations internals (inverter, display, etc) are sunk costs per hour. That would explain why the wifi had the lowest available power as a % while the A/C had the highest available power. That would tell me that efficiency increases exponentially with larger power supplies assuming they would use the same sunk costs as a flat rate.
how many btu was that AC, what's the efficiency rating, and was it on full blast trying to " cool " the room the whole time even after it got to the set temperature ?
I recommend an 8 kilowatt storage. For the basics. For my place 15 kilowatts would run everything for the whole 24 hours. But I can run the whole place at 3 kilowatts if need. So like you stated and a kilowatt system would run my place for about 3 days. So on 2 300 watt panels. I could run properly a week. Add a third panel I can go Non-Stop. But to get back to the 15 kilowatts I would need a lot more panels. Difference between surviving and thriving. I would prefer six panels at 300 w each.
I have a Delta Pro and Powerstream inverter with 3 smart plugs and 1700W of solar which runs my lounge, bedroom and fridge freezer completely off grid. I essentially just pay to use my kitchen appliances and the standing charge, it will take a while to pay for itself but with the price of electricity only going upwards that pay off will be sooner rather than later. I could up my solar to 2400W if necessary but it’s just not.
I'd like to see some one test using jus5 d/c voltage from one of these units. I theorize that all but the a/c, and maybe the TV would see a great improvement not having to use the inverter to go from DC to AC back to DC. It would be simple enough to use a usb C PD trigger board into a barrel jack. Most routers rarely use over 12v.
You should do the Segway Cube 1000 then buy the extension batteries it could stack up to 5. Would love to see the test for every battery configuration.
Amazing information, thank you. Quick question, which aet of solar panels, and battery you recommend me to charge this if i have almost no electric energy in my country?
Try to get a dc to dc plug for the router, low wattage devices ran on A/c potentially waste more having the inverter on than it's using. And inverters are much less efficient with lower power draws.
for just running the internet boxes , you could get more life by making a power plug for the wi-fi boxes that skips AC to DC and lets you just get DC from the battery.
Would want to know how long a sump pump would last. Many of my neighbors had flooding when the power went out ,during a downpour, for five hours last year.
When the load is under ~10-15W, the AC inverter cannot accurately measure the load. That is why the use did not register and show on the unit. This is not unique to Anker. An EcoFlow unit I had did the same thing. Only happens with AC, not the DC.
The thing im interested in with this is would it handle a 1500w radiator heater to use during peak hours to save on electric heating going into the winter using the 400 watt solar panels I'm seeing amazon selling as an option with the generator......
These come in handy for cpap machines during a power outage. I’ve been using a 240wh 600w max ecoflow. I like that it charges to 100% from 0% in 1 hour. How fast does this Anker one charge?
For the price you can buy a 300ah lifepo4 battery, inverter, and charger and get a little over 3x the run time as one of these all in one units. Its not as user friendly but more bang for the $.
I got a $500, 700 watt battery for 300 bucks on sale, but didn't get the $300 panel yet, even though it's on sale for 200 bucks. At full charge it doesn't last long, but im hoping the panel will chang3 that
For the really small loads, get a smaller power station with a smaller inverter. This way you will have less inverter loss. You could get even more runtime if you could use a DC adapter instead of the AC inverter.
I loved mine but unfortunately it broke the second time i used it. The AC inverter would no longer work. I will say Anker did allow me to return it so I took the money and bought an Ecoflow unit instead. i dont know if its just me but that’s the second Anker product I have bought in a row that has not been reliable. I have tons of Anker products that have not given me issues but will be sticking to cables and adapters for now.
Many newer electronic devices like TVs, Laptops, Tablets, even newer fridges, are incredibly energy efficient and run for hours, as opposed to things like AC units, portable heaters, microwaves, and coffee machines.
The one test you forgot to do in this video was charge the anchor itself up to 100% state of charge and then run the AC inverter without having anything plugged into it to see how long it will last itself with zero load but running that would be interesting to see also, these tests do show that that particular power station does actually draw a few watts at least all the time even when the item is not putting a load on it, which means there is definitely ways that it can be improved
Maybe the inverter in the other power station consumes less energy or maybe it is a lower wattage inverter. If you had dc appinces then there would not be any inverter use and they should last even longer.
Gaming computer would be around 1h, it has about 800 watts, or at least 400-600 watts. Just a decent gpu starts at least at 200 watts. Keyboards usually take up to 0,5 watts max, so they are almost not noticeable at all. USB C-Port devices can draw a lot of power if i remember right. 30 watts is unimaginable for a gaming setup. A lot. Also speakers can draw a lot of power, mine about 300 + 150 + 150 Watts, that's 600 watts, 20 times of what your whole setup is using just for my audio.
Why don't you measure how much wattage is being recharged to? Without knowing the actual starting power it don't mean anything what the device states its power capacity is. I always do a charge and discharge test on my 12v lifepo4 to test the capacity instead of assuming its rating of 1280 watts.
I have a gaming pc wich uses 547watts that's a ryzen 9 5950x and a rtx 3080ti all watter cooled my 75in tv uses about 220w to 280w so approximately about 1 hrs run time for my gaming pc and the tv
Can this be used as a UPS? Like, can you plug in a router to it, and plug this device to a wall outliet, and it will use the outlet power until a power-loss happens and it seamlessly switches to the battery when needed?
Looking to take my TV & PS5 off grid to start with, before figuring out what i need to run a heater. I know th3y sell pretty beefed up 2,000 watt setups but I don't have the money atm
I just have my solar panels installed, I'm thinking if i can get a power station to run my fridge and the power station only charge when the solar panels are working. Is that possible?
Try a more practical AC. These batteries have there uses but there's no way i'd use them as backup when you can get a great generator for the same price & power stuff for a long time.
Hi guys I'm in South Africa and I wanna run a medium size family fridge, medium under counter freezer, TV, cooling fan when it's hot and router How many watts to I need for that to run like 7 hours a day. I'll be charging it with electricity Thanks in advance
Oh by the way,last time there was a power outage in my house the electric company took 75 days to fix a single cable that was broken between the power grid and my house.
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You are the greatest. People just want to know if these units can run simple household items and for how long. Views are going up for sure.
they should learn some math then..
It's simple math. Ohms law tells u everything u need to know.
@@fvgc454ss Maybe - so how many fahrenheit per inch is this able to power?
@@fvgc454ss
It doesn't tell you startup amps of motor for the refrigerator. It doesn't tell you draw on the backup when your electronics devices are not running.
In addition, the actual performance of these backup devices isn't necessarily the rating.
..so, no, ohms law is not enough.
@@backpackingonline it's all math...
Finally, a really useful demonstration of what these batteries can power and for how long. I wish you had the thank you feature enabled on this video so that I could give you a monetary thank you.
I have the same model. I use it as battery back up for my hospital bed, air mattress, and iPad Pro because I am a quadriplegic. Every time we have had power outages, it has kept me going.
You're the only person that buys those things and shows real life applications, which shows exactly what people should expect. Great job 👍
It's so easy to slap a sticker with a number but that means absolutely nothing if you don't know what your devices draw.
we had a scheduled power cut a month ago in my neighborhood for three hrs due to works on the greed... I have a 1000w/h wind and solar powered station for my trips, so I plugged my fridge, radio [for my birds] my TV and computer... the screen said ''8 hrs left'' when it started... and 3 hrs later when the power came back it had ''7 hrs left'' in it... my neighbors watched me on my front porch drinking cold beers and browsing on my laptop, while the radio played music inside, and got impressed with my set-up... now some of them want to build their own...
hi McGiver, can you give an introdcution of us to your neighbors😃
Yeah...this never happened
Frl😂😂@@dschaydschee
Boomer shit 😂
I honestly thought it waa gonna say, when i plugged in my fridge, radio, TV and computer the second i pressed the power button the power pack had a nuclear burnout implosion
That is the most useful video. That gives us a real idea of what this generator might do.
I realized that if you unplugged the fridge from time to time, avoided opening it much... might be able to nurse it along, keeping food cool for a longer period of time.
And also means that if you thought you would be in the situation without power for days you would want a few of these generators, if you want to keep your fridge running.
I've been debating between getting the Bluetti AC180, Ecoflow Delta 2, and this.
Anker is doing a great job with their stations.
Thanks for the tests!
Eco flow 2 or any other generator from eco flow would be well worth it. There’s a app and also a 5 year warranty for each new device and a 2 year warranty for refurbished units.
The fridge kicked on because you opened the door. We had a power cut for a week in the 1980s hurricane and just wrapped the whole freezer in blankets. (It was march in the UK and not very warm weather). We got 3 days before the temp really changed significantly (didnt open till it was on day 3). No solar panels back then. My camping fridge takes 60 watts upto about 140 watts but turns off to wait for the thermostat and we can run that from our 1040 w power station for around 4 days full time.
That's awesome information. How long do you think a medium size UK family fridge would run please
Thanks
Yep, we had a long power cut due to flooding and just flat out didn't open the freezer. 3 or 4 days later, some items near the seal were semi-defrosted but fridge temp max. Food was all OK. Thanks for the blanket idea. If, god forbid, we get another long power cut there'll be gaffer taped quilts round that badboy.
I feel like a more realistic test would be combining the WiFi with the items that use WiFi. Nobody is going to power just WiFi or just a Smart TV.
Good point, I'll keep that in mind for future videos
Eh. This is not a fair statement. We lost power with helene and I used my royobi power inverter to power wifi so that I had internet on my phone. (Our cell service is horrible in my neighborhood). We would probably also put a fan or something on it as well.
Id power my wifi to get access to my ring cameras which run on battery
In a power outage, nobody is going to power numerous appliances at the same time. One would need to be very conservative with the battery’s use.
I have just my wifi and router on a UPS. If I have a power outage I can at least use my phone and laptop.
What we'd normally do from power outage after a hurricane is setup fans blasting at full speed to keep cool. So everyone would have a personal fan right next to them rather than trying to run an AC unit. The generator would be sparingly used for the fans, fridge, and occasionally charging phones and that's basically it.
thank you for formatting the video this way. I am looking for a unit that can power my work from home setup in case of power outage. surprisingly hard to find plain info
A lot of these power banks have trouble showing consumption when it's super low. I think the threshold is around 15-20 watts. Also, your laptop and monitor are drawing like... 1/6th what a gaming PC would draw 😆, and it would have been best to pull the battery and run just off the power adapter if your laptop allows that kind of usage. In all though, extremely useful test, thank you for going through all the effort! I've been trying to decide what sort of small station I want with the hopes of getting just one that would be small enough for camping etc but also good enough for emergency fridge power. This helps a lot. Clearly the higher the draw the more efficient the battery usage.
This was a great demonstration. The only test I would take with a grain of salt is the AC test. Putting it on max cool ensures the compressor will run constantly, with more efficient units, set to a reasonable temperature where the unit can cycle, as its designed, considering you're testing for blackout conditions, you should get much longer run times.
🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️ bro, if you need to run a window ac, it will not cool enough to cycle on and off. It’s just to maintain you feeling cooled down for 2 hours. Even in a smaller room it won’t cool it to, say 70 degrees where it will shut down and restart later. These are just for a few hours of comfort not a whole day thing
It's a tiny AC & you'd have to put it on max with a fan to move the air to cool 1 small room.
In an outage, run the refrigerator until it cuts off. Unplug it. 4 hours later, plug it in again and run it till it cuts off. Modern refrigerator/freezers stay cold enough for food safety for about 4 hours. You can make a power station last much longer if you’re not running the refrigerator every time it drops a couple of degrees, as is the case when you’ve got normal AC power. I can keep my food safe for 2 and a half days with this method. And of course, DON’T open the door or you’ll lose a lot of cold air.
Wow that’s useful.
the power draw did not show up because it was too low to detect. The lowest it can read is maybe 5w or more. hope this helps!
Im buying two of these for off grid living in my tiny home and, your sir, deserve a sub.
Don't forget some quality solar panels and a good wind turbine to keep them charged. I've seen a lot of people skimp on that then they complain it takes over a day to charge them.
With the Wi-Fi scenario, I would ditch the AC plugs and use the corresponding low-voltage type C plugs. That would significantly help the runtime since the AC inverter would not have to be used.
Thanks for the video. Out of everything you tested, for me, the fridge would be the most important.
8:37 You should really try running your LOW WATTAGE devices via the DC outputs and see how much more of the battery's capacity you can use running the wi-fi without the undoubted conversion from dc to ac and back to dc again, I have to believe the internal losses to the inverter will be HUGE for the low wattage devices that are converting the AC back to DC
I will also bet that your laptop would be more efficient from a DC power source.
I was about to mention this too. Depending on design details, pure-sinewave inverters typically consume 15 to 25W, sometimes more, just to keep themselves running (MSW is less, but brings other problems). This can easily exceed the consumption of small loads, hence ~36% measured efficiency. More & more small electronics these days can run directly from USB-C, but for those wanting specific DC voltages on a barrel connector, inexpensive adapters are available on Amazon, eBay & elsewhere. Many things can run directly from the 12V "car" socket also. My off-grid relatives have moved all their always-on stuff except their fridge/freezer to direct DC, allowing their whole-hose inverter to be shut down or left in "search" mode (waiting for an appliance to demand power) overnight, which saves quite a lot of battery every day.
@@jordanhazen7761 this is a really good point. The google/nest wifi router can definitely run from USB-c, i'm not sure about his google fibre modem.
@@jordanhazen7761 what if you've got a small device that you cannot power off of one of the USB ports? would it be worth buying a small inverter to connect to the 12v port and using that instead of the larger internal inverter? For example, your cable or fibre modem may not support power off of USB.
@@jnstroikIndustry standard for cable modems (pure modems, not integrated gateways) is 12V DC on a 5.5mm/2.1mm center-positive jack, and all such modems I've encountered have been happy with anything between about 10 - 15V, including a power station's DC output. For devices needing other voltages, search Amazon for "USB-C to DC Trigger Cable". Any USB-C output capable of charging a laptop can be commanded by the load device (adapter, in this case) to put out 5V, 9V, 12V, 15V, or 20V. Lower-spec USB-C ports meant only for phones and tablets cover only 5V, 9V, 12V options. Some fiber CPE "modems" (ONTs) do want 48VDC, though, well beyond USB-C's voltage selection range, so for those a DC-to-DC boost converter (12V to 48V) would be best. Another option, if you have a little electronics experience and are handy with a soldering iron, is to modify a cheap MSW inverter, bypassing its final H-bridge chopper circuit so that it doesn't invert any more, but merely steps up voltage to ~140V DC, which nearly all switch-mode power supplies labeled for 100-240V AC (for worldwide use) will run from perfectly, at improved efficiency and without the background hum/buzz otherwise typical of an MSW inverter. Such converters aren't sold commercially, at least not with a standard outlet, since plugging in an incompatible device, like something with a traditional linear transformer across the line (transformer = nearly a dead short to DC) could cause instant damage or even a fire hazard. Bypassing an MSW inverter's final stage may also defeat its overload protection, so if you do this mod, be sure to add a fuse on the output of 1A or less, along with an appropriate one (10A or so) on the 12V input if one's not already fitted.
@@jnstroik From my own experience, most devices like Wifi routers, modems and anything that uses an external power supply brick or wall-wart, is running on DC. Usually between 9-12 volts. You only need to buy or make a simple cable with a cigarette lighter plug on one end, and the appropriately sized DC jack on the other, and an adjustable buck/boost converter module (cheap off ebay or aliexpress) to get the right voltage the device needs. A good number of devices uses DC jacks sized 5.5mm X 2.5mm, 5.5mm X 2.1mm, or 4.0mm X 1.7mm.
Very helpful demonstration. I guess I can connect it to a TV and internet router at the same time? My TV is only useful during power outage if I have wifi 😊.
Great job ... I appreciate your video. It helped me a lot in deciding to buy and see what really can handle
Great video, nobody is doing videos like this right now
Excellent, now I know this device can run home appliances like a AC, will save me money on energy cost.
Bro I love your video reviews on this power station stuff, please can you review the ecoflow river 2.
There's a lot of reviews on it but your are the only person that gives the full details and how long it runs.
Excellent video. How 'bout the Delta 1600 that is shown on HSN that comes with 220 wats of solar panels for $749.
I've taken some measurements on my gaming PC with a Kill-a-watt plug. Average watt consumption is ~ 450 watts (4080 Super + Ryzen 7950X3D) while gaming. Assume a run time that is slightly less but similar to the AC.
Finally I find someone who did this experiment for me. I can get a couple of these power stations for summer emergencies.
THX.
edit Price went up 50% OUCH
Very informative 👏. Thank you for sharing
So if I gather this correctly, the power stations internals (inverter, display, etc) are sunk costs per hour. That would explain why the wifi had the lowest available power as a % while the A/C had the highest available power. That would tell me that efficiency increases exponentially with larger power supplies assuming they would use the same sunk costs as a flat rate.
how many btu was that AC, what's the efficiency rating, and was it on full blast trying to " cool " the room the whole time even after it got to the set temperature ?
I recommend an 8 kilowatt storage. For the basics. For my place 15 kilowatts would run everything for the whole 24 hours. But I can run the whole place at 3 kilowatts if need. So like you stated and a kilowatt system would run my place for about 3 days. So on 2 300 watt panels. I could run properly a week. Add a third panel I can go Non-Stop. But to get back to the 15 kilowatts I would need a lot more panels. Difference between surviving and thriving. I would prefer six panels at 300 w each.
This is great. How about a ceiling fan? It's not as nice as AC but it will do in a pinch.
for $600 buy a generator that can run most everything in your home
I have a Delta Pro and Powerstream inverter with 3 smart plugs and 1700W of solar which runs my lounge, bedroom and fridge freezer completely off grid. I essentially just pay to use my kitchen appliances and the standing charge, it will take a while to pay for itself but with the price of electricity only going upwards that pay off will be sooner rather than later. I could up my solar to 2400W if necessary but it’s just not.
I'd like to see some one test using jus5 d/c voltage from one of these units. I theorize that all but the a/c, and maybe the TV would see a great improvement not having to use the inverter to go from DC to AC back to DC. It would be simple enough to use a usb C PD trigger board into a barrel jack. Most routers rarely use over 12v.
You should do the Segway Cube 1000 then buy the extension batteries it could stack up to 5. Would love to see the test for every battery configuration.
Amazing information, thank you. Quick question, which aet of solar panels, and battery you recommend me to charge this if i have almost no electric energy in my country?
I dont usually leave top level comments, but i needed to day thank you for this!
The wattage display likely needs 10W minimum. The fridge can go into a defrost cycle, which will pull that 150 watts (compressor is off then)
Very useful real time testing
My power brick from another brand also won't display draw below about 8-10 watts. I just assumed that it needed enough juice to measure it.
Try to get a dc to dc plug for the router, low wattage devices ran on A/c potentially waste more having the inverter on than it's using. And inverters are much less efficient with lower power draws.
How fun to watch your video every time
We are really waiting for another video about the solar
What types of solar videos would you like to see?
@@footprinthero About the types of solar controllers such as Victorian and more. .
@@footprinthero And also about the difference between a rigid solar panel and a flexible solar panel
for just running the internet boxes , you could get more life by making a power plug for the wi-fi boxes that skips AC to DC and lets you just get DC from the battery.
That's impressive that it is even able to handle the ac unit.
My little $800 unit can reliably output 2,400 watts until the battery is drained, and more than twice that for five or six seconds.
anything to save on electric cost, thanks for the demonstration.
Is it really saving much when the battery costs $500? What’s the break even point for that
Would want to know how long a sump pump would last. Many of my neighbors had flooding when the power went out ,during a downpour, for five hours last year.
this is the content i need
Thank you. Very informative and great video. Looking for thesee sorts of real workd tests
When the load is under ~10-15W, the AC inverter cannot accurately measure the load. That is why the use did not register and show on the unit. This is not unique to Anker. An EcoFlow unit I had did the same thing. Only happens with AC, not the DC.
Interesting, good to know. Thanks for sharing that
What's the smart plug that you're using to measure the energy usage?
I have this power station and can say it makes for an okay ups for my gaming pc and it's associated equipment
if you connect your extrenal monitor to your laptop, you should power off the LCD of the laptop because it's redundant.
You build yourself a gaming PC yet? You deserve one!
Curious how a 12v Frig would do, especially during camping.
WiFi test was my favorite!
The thing im interested in with this is would it handle a 1500w radiator heater to use during peak hours to save on electric heating going into the winter using the 400 watt solar panels I'm seeing amazon selling as an option with the generator......
This thing is incredible, so you use two of them.😊
These come in handy for cpap machines during a power outage. I’ve been using a 240wh 600w max ecoflow. I like that it charges to 100% from 0% in 1 hour. How fast does this Anker one charge?
My question is, does this pass power from a panel and charge it self at the same time if I were to connect one to it?
For the price you can buy a 300ah lifepo4 battery, inverter, and charger and get a little over 3x the run time as one of these all in one units. Its not as user friendly but more bang for the $.
A big honkin battery for a diesel truck connected to a power inverter. Would be interesting to see how long that would power the fridge...
I got a $500, 700 watt battery for 300 bucks on sale, but didn't get the $300 panel yet, even though it's on sale for 200 bucks. At full charge it doesn't last long, but im hoping the panel will chang3 that
For the really small loads, get a smaller power station with a smaller inverter. This way you will have less inverter loss.
You could get even more runtime if you could use a DC adapter instead of the AC inverter.
I loved mine but unfortunately it broke the second time i used it. The AC inverter would no longer work. I will say Anker did allow me to return it so I took the money and bought an Ecoflow unit instead. i dont know if its just me but that’s the second Anker product I have bought in a row that has not been reliable. I have tons of Anker products that have not given me issues but will be sticking to cables and adapters for now.
These Anker stations don’t show low watts on the ac outlets. 6 watts would show up if it were through usb
Many newer electronic devices like TVs, Laptops, Tablets, even newer fridges, are incredibly energy efficient and run for hours, as opposed to things like AC units, portable heaters, microwaves, and coffee machines.
Do you have a preference for anker? I got an eco flow delta 2 and I’m curious how they stack up to each other
How long will a heater run that has a solar panel hooked to it all day, w your cord running through the window?
Please I want to know the price of this very one
It would seem that the inverter is using about 20w/hour, which is why you're getting lower efficiency on the longer running gadgets
Nice tests, but do not forget that a powerstation keeps aprox. 10 % power in the system to protect the batteries.
is it expansive to recharge the battery ? I don't know much about charging stations and their prices.
The one test you forgot to do in this video was charge the anchor itself up to 100% state of charge and then run the AC inverter without having anything plugged into it to see how long it will last itself with zero load but running that would be interesting to see also, these tests do show that that particular power station does actually draw a few watts at least all the time even when the item is not putting a load on it, which means there is definitely ways that it can be improved
Maybe the inverter in the other power station consumes less energy or maybe it is a lower wattage inverter. If you had dc appinces then there would not be any inverter use and they should last even longer.
Bless your heart for this review
Gaming computer would be around 1h, it has about 800 watts, or at least 400-600 watts. Just a decent gpu starts at least at 200 watts. Keyboards usually take up to 0,5 watts max, so they are almost not noticeable at all. USB C-Port devices can draw a lot of power if i remember right. 30 watts is unimaginable for a gaming setup. A lot.
Also speakers can draw a lot of power, mine about 300 + 150 + 150 Watts, that's 600 watts, 20 times of what your whole setup is using just for my audio.
Did the fridge compressor turn on?
try a n inverter ac unit, supposed to be more efficient
What smart plug are you using?
Why don't you measure how much wattage is being recharged to?
Without knowing the actual starting power it don't mean anything what the device states its power capacity is.
I always do a charge and discharge test on my 12v lifepo4 to test the capacity instead of assuming its rating of 1280 watts.
Alex, do you have a spreadsheet or something that walks me thru all the calculations... from panels to controller to battery? Thanks.
Please make a how to connect a solar disconnect switch tutorial
I have a gaming pc wich uses 547watts that's a ryzen 9 5950x and a rtx 3080ti all watter cooled my 75in tv uses about 220w to 280w so approximately about 1 hrs run time for my gaming pc and the tv
Can this be used as a UPS? Like, can you plug in a router to it, and plug this device to a wall outliet, and it will use the outlet power until a power-loss happens and it seamlessly switches to the battery when needed?
the battery unit will always take power from the outlet, your power bill will go up. I like your idea though.
@@gregoryeverson741 amazon page says it has a "UPS mode"
On Amazon right not this unit costs $998. That's quite a jump from two months ago.
Looking to take my TV & PS5 off grid to start with, before figuring out what i need to run a heater. I know th3y sell pretty beefed up 2,000 watt setups but I don't have the money atm
Use a propane heater like mr buddy, i wouldnt waste the electricity on heating. Propane also doubles to use on a propane stove
It's cheaper to pay a power bill.
What model is ur ac? An intersted in a review about it. Seem small and environmental friendly
what smart plug do you use?
Nice video. Do you thé same test with battery with more output piwer,somethong lire 3600w or more ?Merci 🎉
Have you tried it with starlink, brother? I really want to know how long it will run a starlink router and dish
I just have my solar panels installed, I'm thinking if i can get a power station to run my fridge and the power station only charge when the solar panels are working. Is that possible?
Could you please test the TV and Fridge on the Ecoflow River 2. Just to see how long it lasts
Try a more practical AC. These batteries have there uses but there's no way i'd use them as backup when you can get a great generator for the same price & power stuff for a long time.
What does the price have to do with how much it can run? A $500 unit would not do the same?
Do these things ever catch on fire 🔥 ??
Hi guys
I'm in South Africa and I wanna run a medium size family fridge, medium under counter freezer, TV, cooling fan when it's hot and router
How many watts to I need for that to run like 7 hours a day. I'll be charging it with electricity
Thanks in advance
Oh by the way,last time there was a power outage in my house the electric company took 75 days to fix a single cable that was broken between the power grid and my house.
Is Jackery not in the same ball park?
can you charge while using with solar panel ????????
The 200+ watts is when the generator enters the defrost cycle. This happens about one a day for about 30 minutes each time.