300ZX NA-TT Oil Pan and Oil Pump Shim Reseal
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- The follow up video to the previous oil pan and oil pump video. I show the replacement of the oil pump, the replacement of the oil pan, and complete another step towards being twin turbo! #300ZX #Z32 #TwinTurbo #EngineSwap #JDM
Stop dropping shit. get some magnetic bowls. whatever it takes.
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When are you going to quit making RUclips videos and finally pay the child support that you owe me? Your son doesn't even have a winter jacket, I've had to staple stale bread to the inside of his shirt
LaToya, you haven’t returned any of my calls. If I remember correctly, I suggested using the dust out of the vacuum. It’s far cheaper than the stale bread, THAT COULD BE FEEDING OUR SON! This pandemic has hit us all, and I would appreciate at least an attempt to understand my side of things.
@@TheFeesher How dare you. Maybe it's the exhaust fumes, but if you remember, you sold our vacuum to buy fuzzy dice to hang from your mirror. I know I cheated (several times) but that doesn't give you the right to abandon your son. Nor did it give you the right to pawn our vacuum.
@@latoyabagre140 Wat.
Great video. Just what I was looking for.
I have a 98 Pathfinder 3.3L with a similar oil pump. It was an elderly couple's for 20 years. I don't think they used it much. Low miles, 6,000 a year average, and likely wasn't driven hard ever. I think they let oil sit in it and maybe their mechanic put snake oil in it as a sales pitch. There was gummy honey-colored stuff on the refill cap.
Something is causing this Pathfinder to knock at startup for 3-4 seconds and then between 1,800 and 3,300 RPM. If coasting between 1800 and 3300, it ceases. I think I caught rod bearing wear early and I replaced them. And checked the mains. Mains were good. Two rods had mild wear. No slack or slope in anything. Metal flakes stopped appearing. But still the knock between those RPM. It runs perfectly, otherwise. And the body and interior is like new. So it's a nice one I'd like to keep long-term.
What do you think about this idea?
If the oil isn't changed well can the valve system in the pump stick or malfunction and cause oil pressure to be insufficient? The pressure is 100% consistently poor at startup for 3 seconds and under load between 1800 to 3300 RPM. Makes no sense, this loss of pressure at fixed time, other than faulty pump.
I know there is also a pan gasket leak at the front and back. I thinned the oil as an experiment to see if pressure/noise changed and oil began quickly dripping from both ends of the oil pan when it was at warm idle. I thinned the oil 50% with motor flush, which is basically kerosene. I drained out two quarts and put in 2 quarts cleaner. So I have to pull the pan anyways to fix those leaks, so might as well pull inspect and replace the pump as well. Also have to check timing as well and swap all those parts as their age is unknown. The pressure problem was present before the leaks were noted. So the big leaks are new and the problem is the exact same.
Do you know of a good oil pump replacement video of my motor or very similar? I found a timing kit one, but no oil pump.
hi all i got a few questions here hope you can help.
- to replace oil pan/sump seal, the engine need to be out?
- does overfill engine oil causing oil pan leak??
- what 1989 z32 TT engine oil capacity? is it the same as non turbo?
Thanks Legend
Engine does not need to be put, but at the very least the engine needs to be supported with a front crossmember lowered, the pan won’t clear the member. Overfill shouldn’t cause a leak, not sure about oil capacity, I think it’s more than expected though,
Hey, i was wondering did you have to prime the oil pump at all before you installed or or before you fired up the engine?
No, I would recommend cranking it without fuel though just to get everything lubed before the journals get loaded up
@@TheFeesher ok thats what I though. I usually do that in the spring to after my car sit through the winter. I just unplug the CAS and crank it a few times to just prime every thing and get the lifters some oil too. thanks for the reply
If this is a NA block how did you run the turbo feed lines?
You have to buy the feed “block” that goes in the engine block behind the AC compressor bracket, once you have that, you just need the lines and banjo bolts
@@TheFeesher Ok thanks, any chance you know a good place to buy those?
@@xsrcalorb I got mine from Spoolin Enterprises, off a TT block, but sometimes Z1 has them though
@@TheFeesher Ok, thanks for the info. Oh was it a stock motor if so how did it hold up?
It was stock, one of my turbos was blown, I bought from someone, but besides it was alright. I had it super turned down since I was on 91 so it was slow as hell lol
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