Todd, I gotta say ya’ll have one hell of a set up over their in cedar city and even after being a professional Cummins Tech for 14 years I’ve been learning so much more about how to make power from ya’lls videos than anywhere else I’ve found you guys are bad ass
Thanks for the great info! I just had 3 12 valve heads done in the last year. I would probably have made some more upgrades had I known about the valve seal issues with boost. I'm not much over stock on boost on most of my trucks. The highest is around 45-50 psi. The others are topping out around 35-40 psi. I hope they hold.
A perfectly smooth head sounds good... but in reality it is not that great for effective sealing. Part of how a head gasket seals is the roughness of the cylinder head and block surface. That roughness on the head and block "bites" into the gasket and helps hold it in place. A super smooth cylinder head and block deck will allow the gasket to blow out easier under high cylinder pressures when the studs/bolts start to stretch and the head to block clearance grows. Now, granted that ARP and aftermarket studs are super tough and have minimum stretching, the surface finish on the head and block may be negligible now, but I'm just saying what has been common practice for cylinder head and block surfaces for a longgg time.
Agreed, stock valve springs are a waste of money. Glad to hear your shop offers a complete built cylinder head. What about valve seats? Do you offer cobalt seats for 2nd & 3rd Gen 5.9 builds? Thanks for the excellent content.
@@pddofficial yes they are orange but I didn't put them on that's what was on it when I got it back from being o ringed and your conical valve springs installed there.
@@pddofficial ordered a set went to install them to find out they wont go on a 95 and earlier head without machining the valve guide so I'm just hoping they dont slide up once I install compounds. First time getting in this deep on a 12 valve it's been a learning experience. So I'll know for next time and have them machined.
Just curious what's my options on a 4th gen head? No looking to go crazy just want to be around 800hp completely deleted with mini max programming only use tow for now dont want to blow my headgasket
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So what ur saying is when I do a 12v I should call you guys. Ok sounds good👍👊
Todd, I gotta say ya’ll have one hell of a set up over their in cedar city and even after being a professional Cummins Tech for 14 years I’ve been learning so much more about how to make power from ya’lls videos than anywhere else I’ve found you guys are bad ass
Hey Todd you also need to do a video on the upgraded Hamilton heads and there different stages that are available. Thanks!!!
Thanks for the great info! I just had 3 12 valve heads done in the last year. I would probably have made some more upgrades had I known about the valve seal issues with boost. I'm not much over stock on boost on most of my trucks. The highest is around 45-50 psi. The others are topping out around 35-40 psi. I hope they hold.
A perfectly smooth head sounds good... but in reality it is not that great for effective sealing. Part of how a head gasket seals is the roughness of the cylinder head and block surface. That roughness on the head and block "bites" into the gasket and helps hold it in place. A super smooth cylinder head and block deck will allow the gasket to blow out easier under high cylinder pressures when the studs/bolts start to stretch and the head to block clearance grows. Now, granted that ARP and aftermarket studs are super tough and have minimum stretching, the surface finish on the head and block may be negligible now, but I'm just saying what has been common practice for cylinder head and block surfaces for a longgg time.
Agreed, stock valve springs are a waste of money. Glad to hear your shop offers a complete built cylinder head. What about valve seats? Do you offer cobalt seats for 2nd & 3rd Gen 5.9 builds? Thanks for the excellent content.
Had you guys o ring my head wish I would have known about those top hat valve seals would have had them put on
@@pddofficial yes they are orange but I didn't put them on that's what was on it when I got it back from being o ringed and your conical valve springs installed there.
@@pddofficial ordered a set went to install them to find out they wont go on a 95 and earlier head without machining the valve guide so I'm just hoping they dont slide up once I install compounds. First time getting in this deep on a 12 valve it's been a learning experience. So I'll know for next time and have them machined.
The top hat seals require some additional machinework to seat correctly, right?
2nd haha love y’all’s vids can’t wait to build my 12 valve!😈
Always good info from pdd. And parts.
Thanks Todd!
Again some awesome parts 💪😬
how about a overhead cam driven by a belt. or a cam with hydraulic studs ?
How much?
Does an 01 24v head have to be machined for the top hats
Is there them top hat seals for 24v head??
Do you guys grind or machine the head surface?
Do these come in a 24V configuration and what is the flow? How much material for porting?
thanks great info.
Just curious what's my options on a 4th gen head? No looking to go crazy just want to be around 800hp completely deleted with mini max programming only use tow for now dont want to blow my headgasket
And has exhauste brake from factory.
"Not Chinese junk valves, OEM!"
4th....😅
1st comment, love it