I bought a used 3875 a couple months ago and had to refurbish it. I called Woodmaster and they ran the serial number, it came back as a 1993 unit. They still had parts in stock for that old model and I got them within a week. they even emailed me a copy of the exploded view and parts list for my machine for future needs. FANTASTIC CUSTOMER SERVICE!!!!
I have a 718 and 725 planer molders from WM they are awesome, solid and everything he said! Customer service is the best. You feel like old school service, like walking into a hardware store long ago and talking to a knowledgeable seasoned person.
That is a great question and to be honest I'm not sure how accurately I could guess what that actual measurement of removal there is. The adjustment lever goes by 1/64ths. However I would say each pass may be less than that. There is a digital gauge you can zero on your piece of material before starting your first pass and track it as you go through each time. I'm not sure if this fully answers your question but hopefully it helps!
Great video and review! I didn’t see too many out there for something this size. Anyone’s feedback hear would be appreciated. I currently do a lot of tables including epoxy( I know not everyone’s thing but it helps pay the bills with little background experience). I am looking for a way to cut down on the time and mess of a router sled. I do want something 48” as again it’s mostly tables. What do think would be better and do you have any experience running an epoxy table through this machine? A drum sander or a planer? Just from looking quick it looks like a cnc would be more ideal for that size project but now you’re talking like 15,000 to start. Any help is greatly appreciated. I can also drive a table 1.5 hrs each way and pay 150 an hour to use a bigger companies machine. So would it be worth it to invest in a machine like this say doing 12-20 tables a year at current moment as a side business
Hey! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment! I do love this machine however it does take several passes to get a good flat finish. It does not aggressively remove material, but with some patience it really makes for an incredibly flat surface. I have only passed one small coffee table slab a friend made using epoxy it seemed to have no issue at all but like I said, you would most likely need to flatten the piece with a router sled, do an initial rough hand sanding then finish it off with the drum sander before preparing for you finish higher grit sanding. Belt sanders are significantly more aggressive however belt sanders with this width capacity are so expensive. I would totally recommend this drum sander, just know you would still need to do some of those rough processes prior for the table being ready to go through the Woodmaster. Hopefully this helps in some way! It may not be "cutting down" our processing time on pieces but it sure does significantly enhance the quality of each piece
Nice review. Many of your points both good and not that good are the same points I have for my 25” Woodmaster Planer that converts to a drum sander. Works great but don’t expect to take off any significant amount of material. Oh, and take it for what it’s worth but your C-Stand in the background is set up incorrectly. The way you have it in the video will loosen the arm with weight on it rather than tightening it. Take if from a 35 year professional in the grip business
After owning it for a year, how necessary do you feel that the dual drum is? I was considering a single drum set on 120 grit paper. Also, how does the machine perform with epoxy (such as a resin river table)? Thanks for the video and feedback!
Hey Ansel, Thanks for asking. I feel like having both of the drums is extremely helpful especially with large material. It allows for a better level of finish and each pass is more effective. I have never personally put epoxy through the drum sander however I know people use this machine for those types of projects and it works well. It's good to keep in mind however, that a single drum will get the job done no doubt, it may just take some more time. Good luck on your search for a drum sander! We are really happy with ours and it has truly elevated the level of finish we are able to achieve!
No so for my experience. I was in Kansas earlier this year for a trade show. I called before the show and asked for someone in sales. The sales guy that took the call was in my opinion less than friendly. They failed to answer any of my e-mails prior BTW! I told them I would be in their area and could I come over and see their product. They did not even have 1 sander there of ANY size I could demo. I said thanks, and hung up. I own several Felder machines and question the quality of this product anyway. What it has going for it is that it is the only drum sander I can find today.
Ah this is such a bummer to hear! Obviously I am not endorsed by the company I wanted to just share my experience, which at the time I purchased mine, it was great. Such a disappointment. I hope you can find what you're looking for! We have been happy with our's but I'm saddened to hear about your experience. Good luck!
Thanks for the movie. I know exactly how it feels to be sanding, and infact I spend as much time sanding a door or window as it takes to manufacture one. I have a very small business in New Zealand. I have designed all my tooling to make doors, and infact use a home built CNC machine for my mortising. My mortise and tennon joins are almost perfect, although sometimes they might be a 0.5mm (max) raised edge on my joins that I hand sand with a block. I have been looking at a double drum sander to pop my windows and doors through because I am wasting too much time sanding. Material removal, gee, I would only need to remove 0.25mm each side, perhaps a little more. Anyways. Enough about me. My question is how does the drum sander go against the grain direction for you? If you think about a door, the horizontal rails going through a sander will be exposed perpendicular to the grain. I use Western Red Cedar all the way from Canada so its super soft. I worry if I buy a drum sander it might tear out the opposite grain? For info I would be looking at 180 grit due to the very small amount of material I need to remove. Hope to hear from you. Thanks. Oh, nice workshop BTW. We dont have 220v 7.5kw capabilities here, not enough copper in our supply so we are 415v 3phase for the big equipment.
New Zealand is at the top of our list to visit so it's fun to get a comment from you! I have sanded several doors as well as table tops with bread board style ends that cross the orientation of the rest of the linear material and the sander seems to do very well! Because of the variable speed settings you can slow things down. The key is to raise the bed in very small increments in these circumstances taking less aggressive passes. It really does take a bit of time to get used to this machine but I have used it now for nearly two years and have loved having it in the shop! I would say, as you may know, a large and accurate belt sander would probably be the optimal tool for your application but they are usually very cost prohibitive and take up so much room. I hope this helps in some way! And thank you so much for taking the time to watch and comment!
Hi, great, thanks, you helped me make up my mind I am going to try one. I guess if I needed to take more than 0.2mm off my window sashes its time to calibrate my machinery huh? ha. Oh and I defiantly recommend a visit, just dont spend any more time in Auckland than passing through its not a good indicator of the country. Kind of like LA. :-) Be well, drop me a line if your passing through Nelson NZ. @@schoonercreekdesigns
Hi, me again. Hey I was going to ask you if you have put a new window sash through the roller sander? The company I am purchasing from say that I might run into problems with the sash being a basic square. Saying that the sash may try to stay flat, but twist with one side leading the other, and not be a good result. To me that spells technique but unfortunately they are not in NZ, and I have not used one of those sanders prior. If you have time to comment I would appreciate it.... again lol
I've never sanded a window sash through the woodmaster however I have sanded tons of delicate cabinetry face frames which would be of similar construction, and never had a problem!
I am working on a 3820 Woodmaster unit for a friend. His issue is, that it eventually burns wood, and will leave ridges on his work like a washboard in the center of the board over time. It plugs the sand paper on the last roller. Have you ever had this happen? If so what did you do to solve it? We have replaced the sand paper and it always plugs in the same spot. I know you don't work for the company, so you may not be able to answer the question, I was just curious to know if this has ever happened to you?
Hey! That sounds super frustrating, I have no had that issue with our 50" however it sounds to me like it might be an issue with the roller not the sand paper if your getting the problem in the same spot every time. Maybe check to see if there is a bulge or ripple in the rubber on the roller. Have you messed around with the feeding speed to see if that makes a difference?
@@schoonercreekdesigns thank you for your reply. I have not messed with any of the settings yet until I had some feedback. I will try anything at this point. Thank you for the suggestion. Have an awesome day!
I have to agree with you. I have had great luck with their machines. I have a 18in planer that is 25 years old. My 50in drum is great except for the dust collection. Still have not came up with the right solution for that. I am considering a collector just for the sander.
I bought a used 3875 a couple months ago and had to refurbish it. I called Woodmaster and they ran the serial number, it came back as a 1993 unit. They still had parts in stock for that old model and I got them within a week. they even emailed me a copy of the exploded view and parts list for my machine for future needs. FANTASTIC CUSTOMER SERVICE!!!!
They have been great to work with!
I have a 718 and 725 planer molders from WM they are awesome, solid and everything he said! Customer service is the best. You feel like old school service, like walking into a hardware store long ago and talking to a knowledgeable seasoned person.
Awesome! Thanks so much for taking the time to watch and comment!
Excellent review!
Thanks for watching!
I love those stools on the blue planket.
Hey, that's a great review. What would you say is the standard amount you can take off at a time?
That is a great question and to be honest I'm not sure how accurately I could guess what that actual measurement of removal there is. The adjustment lever goes by 1/64ths. However I would say each pass may be less than that. There is a digital gauge you can zero on your piece of material before starting your first pass and track it as you go through each time. I'm not sure if this fully answers your question but hopefully it helps!
Great video and review! I didn’t see too many out there for something this size.
Anyone’s feedback hear would be appreciated. I currently do a lot of tables including epoxy( I know not everyone’s thing but it helps pay the bills with little background experience). I am looking for a way to cut down on the time and mess of a router sled. I do want something 48” as again it’s mostly tables.
What do think would be better and do you have any experience running an epoxy table through this machine? A drum sander or a planer? Just from looking quick it looks like a cnc would be more ideal for that size project but now you’re talking like 15,000 to start. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I can also drive a table 1.5 hrs each way and pay 150 an hour to use a bigger companies machine. So would it be worth it to invest in a machine like this say doing 12-20 tables a year at current moment as a side business
Hey! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment! I do love this machine however it does take several passes to get a good flat finish. It does not aggressively remove material, but with some patience it really makes for an incredibly flat surface. I have only passed one small coffee table slab a friend made using epoxy it seemed to have no issue at all but like I said, you would most likely need to flatten the piece with a router sled, do an initial rough hand sanding then finish it off with the drum sander before preparing for you finish higher grit sanding. Belt sanders are significantly more aggressive however belt sanders with this width capacity are so expensive. I would totally recommend this drum sander, just know you would still need to do some of those rough processes prior for the table being ready to go through the Woodmaster. Hopefully this helps in some way! It may not be "cutting down" our processing time on pieces but it sure does significantly enhance the quality of each piece
Nice review. Many of your points both good and not that good are the same points I have for my 25” Woodmaster Planer that converts to a drum sander. Works great but don’t expect to take off any significant amount of material. Oh, and take it for what it’s worth but your C-Stand in the background is set up incorrectly. The way you have it in the video will loosen the arm with weight on it rather than tightening it. Take if from a 35 year professional in the grip business
After owning it for a year, how necessary do you feel that the dual drum is? I was considering a single drum set on 120 grit paper. Also, how does the machine perform with epoxy (such as a resin river table)? Thanks for the video and feedback!
Hey Ansel, Thanks for asking. I feel like having both of the drums is extremely helpful especially with large material. It allows for a better level of finish and each pass is more effective. I have never personally put epoxy through the drum sander however I know people use this machine for those types of projects and it works well. It's good to keep in mind however, that a single drum will get the job done no doubt, it may just take some more time. Good luck on your search for a drum sander! We are really happy with ours and it has truly elevated the level of finish we are able to achieve!
No so for my experience. I was in Kansas earlier this year for a trade show. I called before the show and asked for someone in sales. The sales guy that took the call was in my opinion less than friendly. They failed to answer any of my e-mails prior BTW! I told them I would be in their area and could I come over and see their product. They did not even have 1 sander there of ANY size I could demo. I said thanks, and hung up. I own several Felder machines and question the quality of this product anyway. What it has going for it is that it is the only drum sander I can find today.
Ah this is such a bummer to hear! Obviously I am not endorsed by the company I wanted to just share my experience, which at the time I purchased mine, it was great. Such a disappointment. I hope you can find what you're looking for! We have been happy with our's but I'm saddened to hear about your experience. Good luck!
@@schoonercreekdesigns Here is what you do, you just buy one used! I have a line on 2 of them right now.
@@philstevens9914 nice! Let us know how it goes for you!
Thanks for the movie. I know exactly how it feels to be sanding, and infact I spend as much time sanding a door or window as it takes to manufacture one. I have a very small business in New Zealand. I have designed all my tooling to make doors, and infact use a home built CNC machine for my mortising. My mortise and tennon joins are almost perfect, although sometimes they might be a 0.5mm (max) raised edge on my joins that I hand sand with a block. I have been looking at a double drum sander to pop my windows and doors through because I am wasting too much time sanding. Material removal, gee, I would only need to remove 0.25mm each side, perhaps a little more.
Anyways. Enough about me. My question is how does the drum sander go against the grain direction for you? If you think about a door, the horizontal rails going through a sander will be exposed perpendicular to the grain. I use Western Red Cedar all the way from Canada so its super soft. I worry if I buy a drum sander it might tear out the opposite grain? For info I would be looking at 180 grit due to the very small amount of material I need to remove. Hope to hear from you. Thanks. Oh, nice workshop BTW. We dont have 220v 7.5kw capabilities here, not enough copper in our supply so we are 415v 3phase for the big equipment.
New Zealand is at the top of our list to visit so it's fun to get a comment from you!
I have sanded several doors as well as table tops with bread board style ends that cross the orientation of the rest of the linear material and the sander seems to do very well! Because of the variable speed settings you can slow things down. The key is to raise the bed in very small increments in these circumstances taking less aggressive passes. It really does take a bit of time to get used to this machine but I have used it now for nearly two years and have loved having it in the shop! I would say, as you may know, a large and accurate belt sander would probably be the optimal tool for your application but they are usually very cost prohibitive and take up so much room.
I hope this helps in some way! And thank you so much for taking the time to watch and comment!
Hi, great, thanks, you helped me make up my mind I am going to try one. I guess if I needed to take more than 0.2mm off my window sashes its time to calibrate my machinery huh? ha. Oh and I defiantly recommend a visit, just dont spend any more time in Auckland than passing through its not a good indicator of the country. Kind of like LA. :-) Be well, drop me a line if your passing through Nelson NZ. @@schoonercreekdesigns
Hi, me again. Hey I was going to ask you if you have put a new window sash through the roller sander? The company I am purchasing from say that I might run into problems with the sash being a basic square. Saying that the sash may try to stay flat, but twist with one side leading the other, and not be a good result. To me that spells technique but unfortunately they are not in NZ, and I have not used one of those sanders prior. If you have time to comment I would appreciate it.... again lol
I've never sanded a window sash through the woodmaster however I have sanded tons of delicate cabinetry face frames which would be of similar construction, and never had a problem!
I am working on a 3820 Woodmaster unit for a friend. His issue is, that it eventually burns wood, and will leave ridges on his work like a washboard in the center of the board over time. It plugs the sand paper on the last roller. Have you ever had this happen? If so what did you do to solve it? We have replaced the sand paper and it always plugs in the same spot. I know you don't work for the company, so you may not be able to answer the question, I was just curious to know if this has ever happened to you?
Hey! That sounds super frustrating, I have no had that issue with our 50" however it sounds to me like it might be an issue with the roller not the sand paper if your getting the problem in the same spot every time. Maybe check to see if there is a bulge or ripple in the rubber on the roller. Have you messed around with the feeding speed to see if that makes a difference?
@@schoonercreekdesigns thank you for your reply. I have not messed with any of the settings yet until I had some feedback. I will try anything at this point. Thank you for the suggestion. Have an awesome day!
I have to agree with you. I have had great luck with their machines. I have a 18in planer that is 25 years old. My 50in drum is great except for the dust collection. Still have not came up with the right solution for that. I am considering a collector just for the sander.
I won't pls