your videos have quickly become some of my favorite and #1 most trusted. I enjoy the knowledge, being new to 7.3 and diesel. I would like to see some more "how to's"
In our fire department we rotated our engines batteries every 3 months and also separated the system for clean side (For all of our computers/radios/GPS) batteries and dirty side (Engine start/lights, etc). Before we started doing this our City shops were constantly replacing our batteries. Great info for people to be aware of.
Very helpful. I have a very clean 7.3 excursion, but I’m doing a complete overhaul for a reliability build as it’s our tow vehicle for my lake boat and I don’t want to spend time on the side of the road on vacations. I started electrical system. Glad you said odyssey because I just got two brand new ones. I bought a 250amp alternator. I did a big 3, but also am running 1/0 from battery to battery and ground. Replacing the starter with an upgraded starter. Replacing the cable from starter to battery. Replacing glow plugs, cap, valve cover seal and harness - while I’m in there I’ll re-seal the injectors and replace the cups with my overly-expensive injector cup tool from riffraff. I’m adding an F650 dash panel for switches for the accessories and then might put the separate fuse box in glove compartment or if there is pace under the accessory switch. The main harness I’m still researching. I’d like to replace it, but I also want to make it better. I think you mentioned you replaced the wire with 4 gauge. The gauge wire that comes with it looks like it’s super flimsy, I haven’t tested it yet as I’m mid project and haven’t gotten to that.
I replaced a pair of superstart AGM’s that were 15 years old on the 03 7.3 long bed crew I bought a couple of years ago. I was impressed that there was zero corrosion on my battery terminals. Turned out it was the starter, and I could have gone longer on them, but it is good to know I can expect a good 10 years and no corrosion. They were less than $250 each at the time.
Would love to have a set of those, and what you said makes total sense, but they are out of my retired budget price range. I'll have to save up after my next time changing batteries next year. Until then I might have to stick with the MotorCraft BXT-65-850's at ~$204.00 x 2 = 408.00 x %11 Tax = $452.88 Odyssey has two batteries for the truck; - P/N: ODP-AGM65 (65-760) W CCA 762 Price; $338.99 X 2 = $677.98 Plus 11% Tax = $752.56 or - P/N: ODX-AGM65 (65-PC1750) W CCA 950 Price; $391.99 X 2 = $783.98 Plus %11 Tax = $870.22 Thanks for sharing Clint. Keep up the great videos. Keith Noneya
I bought my 7.3 with mismatched batteries. I never thought it was an issue. Now I have an alternator going out and the battery light flashing. Never would have thought it had to do with mismatched batteries. Thank you for your help.
Good vid. All of the lead refineries in this country have been shut down. So all lead comes from offshore. Odyssey batts are good, if you're looking for something less expensive Penn State/Deka are rebranded into many brands and its hard to find who's who but its worth it. Optima used to make great batteries (late 90's early 2000s), but the last few were not as long lasting as the early ones. They changed mfg facilities around the same time as the longevity went down...
Just replaced my interstate batteries six year warranty I got exactly 6 years. And the one battery was reading 9 V (All kinds of issues with it running.) Replaced with odyssey batteries. Runs a lot better . Thanks
Thank you Cliff. Being a newbie with both diesel and my dad's 96 F250 7.3 I am so thank I found your channel. Recently after upgrading to LEDs through our the cab I noticed the alternator gauge as well as the rpm fluctuating at startup. After checking battery cables and clamps I am seeing all the issues you mentioned. Guess I've got a busy weekend ahead of me.😅
Best thing I ever did along with my good high CCA batteries, copper connections and 5w-40 synthetic motor oil, was when it comes time to replace the starter is to put in a Nipendenso unit.. of course you have to check out the glow plug system every fall and make sure everything is up to par along with a new fuel filter. But the starter upgrade is amazing! I regularly have started in well below zero weather with no electricity available for block heating with ease!
Next alternator I'm gonna run is one out of the 6.4 they bolt right up. The two smaller wires you put those together. And once you hit 1100rpm it comes on. Which is good for glow plugs from what I heard. They don't like but lower voltage cuz they tend to swell at 13.8 14v. Love this video.
Can I just say thank you for the advice regarding having two of the same batteries. I invested in two red top optima batteries to replace my mismatched batteries and wow! The engine is NOTICEABLY running smoother. Even the injectors sound happier. Throttle response is also a lot more smoother. Thank you so much for the advice!
My 97 7.3 alternator burned out in 2019. (Not too bad, but at a bad time, snow storm and plow on, had to pull batteries up on a toboggan 1/2 mile up hill to charge up). (Yes, up hill on way back too). Great video
Hi Clint, thanks for the battery info. It was much appreciated. I just completed rebuilding the fuel bowl today. What a pain in the butt!! But it is done, NO LEAKS. The batteries have been replaced with Motircraft OEM a few years back , as my wife’s son informed me. My next replacement is the block heater and cord. I will also get some copper lugs, and I have quite an assortment of various gauge wire. That will be my spring project!!
2001 7.3 here. I was thanking about purchasing Odyssey batteries after seeing this video. Purchased two new Motocraft 850 cca back in 10/2019 had charging issues just recently and replaced my alternators I have two. Before changing the alternators I would check my voltage and the battery read 12.5 volts my thinking 90 percent going on three years I need to start looking for batteries before winter later in 2022. Since replacing both alternators and before starting, my batteries are at 12.8 12.9 volts. And I believe having bad alternators burned out an IDM. Once I crank my engine over it immediately jumps up 12.5 13.5 14 volts in a matter of seconds on cold days I used to count the seconds it would take for the battery light to go out 30 seconds sometimes longer. Let's see how long these batteries last for. But I tell you I do like the odysseys and 950 cold cranking amps.
This is pretty interesting. I have got the original wiring on my 2000 7.3 296k miles, and its on its 2nd alternator. Have always just miss match replaced the batteries with recycled/reman. Never left me stranded, replace the batteries on average once every 4-6yrs. I do always use a battery minder. Same for 06 jeep and 2005 Ram 5.9l. I might try the battery upgrade next time they need replacement just to see how much of a difference it makes.
I completely agree with what you have said. But.... those batteries that you are running, are not your standard lead acid batteries. They are in fact AGM batteries. Now, with that being said, I have a small towing company and i switched all of my trucks (both towing and service trucks) to the AGM batteries a few years ago, and almost instantly, most of our battery and or charging system problems disappeared. Yes, AGM does cost more, upfront... but after buying 21 batteries (some of the tow trucks take 3 batteries) every 3 years for 15 years, i haven't had to replace any in the last 5. As always Sir, excellent video with a TON of useful information!!!
AGM batteries are the right battery type for a diesel that’s near the engine. They handle the vibration, heat and start cycles much better than lead acid battery types. Yes more expensive but they can last 2 to 10 times longer. 😊
On our personal 2012 F350 6.7 We made it 11 years on the factory Motorcraft batteries. And during those years we were in BC Canada, Texas and the desert South West. When I retired I was working for a government motorpool as a mechanic. The fleet was 150 peices of rolling stock, gas, diesel, SUVs to class 8 trucks and heavy equipment. On newer machines you have to go in and tell the vehicle computer that you changed bulbs, changed batteries, ect. Because of how tight the systems monitors and controls ALL the systems and functions. Forget to tell the PCM/BCM and things will burn out.
Thanks for the great videos Clint. I am replacing my alternator and bought the Odyssey ODX-AGM65 based on your suggestions and am doing this upgrade. I have have two questions, first should the new wires be soldered or crimped? Secondly, should the ground wires on the batteries and starter also be upgraded to a thicker gauge or is it good to go with the stock wires? At least I think the starter has a ground. I apologize in advance, I am very new to doing this type of thing. Thank you!
Yes would be a very good idea to upgrade grounds and power cables to welding cables Also the starter cable I use 1o welding cable and it has reduced starter replacement in my trucks and I added a ground post at the starter from the battery
From my experience as a commercial fisherman, I use a high quality terminal block mounted remotely, supplying the voltage with heavy duty wire. Than run your other wires to it neatly.
I have the same alternator on my Windstar & Freestar vans. I always get 250,000 miles minimum on them. I know they don't work as hard as they would with a diesel & 2 batteries, but they should still last pretty good if the wiring system is good. I have used the same alternator on my 79 F-350 with high compression engine & 2 Group 27 batteries. I used that pickup when I worked on a farm to jumpstart most of the tractors, combines, & construction equipment. It lasted for the 5 years that I worked there. And yes, replace all batteries on each vehicle at the same time. Use at least 1/0 cables & keep the connections clean. That said, I didn't know about the battery tech. You really do learn something new every day.
You Were not F×××ing around. I just dropped 2 Odyssey batteries in the 99, 7 Tree. I put them in and became a believer! Taking the shitty Wally World Maxx batteries from my 01 Excursion and dropping another $900.00 for a set of batteries.. Thank you SO MUCH!
Great video I will definitely try the Odessy batteries. However, I do have a question. What alternator do you recommend for a 7.3 ? I noticed on my alternator there is NO 10mm bolt/nut that holds cable to the. Alternator
Looking at getting a new alternator. Been looking around and a company named Hagemeister makes a one wire alternator. Thinking about going this route. Thoughts?
The van is somewhat new to me I bought it around February-march with 171,500 it now sits at 176kz they guy I bought it from said if you don't start it in a few days it wouldn't sometimes start so that's telling me it has a parasitic draw somewhere or weak batteries? Ok so I drive it like that and never really had an issue starting it since I was using it quite often and wouldn't sit more than 3-5 days. Went to start it one day and "click" when I tried to crank it. Kept trying to crank it and it kept clicking without any starter engagement. I cleaned the posts on the battery in the engine bay and made sure the connections were tight. It didn't seem to affect anything as it kept clicking, finally I got lucky and it engaged the starter and it fired up, drove it home with no running issues ran fine. Took out the starter and had it rebuilt at a reputable shop, took it home, installed it and bam fired up first try and that starter sounded strong! I never heard the starter wind up that fast! (So at this point I dont know if it was actually the starter or it was that my batteries were charged again but once I put that starter it started quick and strong.) So I took a trip from Tucson Az up to Modesto and the van started fine and super strong with this rebuilt starter the trip took me about 3-4 days and if I had to guess about 30-40 starts of the engine. I get to Modesto and guess what I crank it to start and "click" again just like before and these clicks sound like what a starting solenoid does. I tried key off and crack about 7-10 times and nothing just click. I do the old hit the start with a wrench get back in the van and go to crack and it starts. I basically only had about 5 more starts after that. I got down to the 2nd battery and it looked old! And the connections had that white stuff it gets when it's not cleaned. I have the batteries tested at auto zone and the engine bay battery checks out good but the 2nd one tests bad so I get it replaced with auto zones better batteries. I go back to the van thinking I didn't have a battery working so it must start! And same thing, click! Just like before. I take it to a shop in Modesto they said the batteries were dead and it had a bad starter after only about 2000 miles! They charge the batteries and replace the starter with a Ford Motorcraft Remab and they call me and they say it's good to go mileage when they changed it was around 173k- 174k. So here we are at 176k and the issue popped up again. Sorry for the long post, and let me know what you think. I want to get this thing fixed because I need it to be reliable for me and I want to take it to someone who knows about these vans and the 7.3 engines. Thanks for responding and the info! It's really appreciated
I have used 850 cca batteries changed in pairs and paid the awful sum of $650 per pair I have had to replace them more than seven times over team years the only time I caught a break was when the truck sat for three years. I have gone through a starter three alternator’s and a starter relay or solenoid. I’m probably a candidate for the wiring harness and where can I get someone who isn’t going to mess around with wires under the dash when they install a radio?
Being a mariner I always use tinned wiring connectors to cut down on corrosion. Shrink to fit with glue inside keeps out water and then dielectric to finish it off. I do dislike bad electric wiring. Here at 4200 feet in the mountains I use a battery maintainer, NOCO 2 amp for $50. I plug it in all winter and always have a fully charged battery.
Love all your videos thanks for sharing all your knowledge. Would you know if you have time or anybody reading comments what might cause the alternator to buzz with just the key on? Cheap eBay alt? Or grounded wire? I fixing to do a new harness real soon. Got a bunch of stuff to catch up on.
This needs diagnosis in person , guessing on past repairs the alternator has a fried something grounding to the case or wires coming to the alternator have a rubbed through to a ground
Hi Clint. I’m grateful for the channel. I have a 2001 7.3 PSD. My problem is it’s an E350. A Van!!! Can you give me the best way to get at things? What do you do? Take off fenders? Any way to make it easier to work on. Thanks, Doug Lambert
Just bought me some fresh lead odyssey batteries 950 cca along with a new alternator that is a virgin alternator and not reman. About 1k later my flickering battery light is gone. Hope to have 11 years plus out of them.
Not sure if this is a good idea, but I’m waiting for gpr to disengage not the light, batteries to be full prior to start. Trucks starts faster and more juices to starter. I no longer look at glow light but volts instead. Makes a big difference IMO
Which alternator do you recommend besides stock motorcraft? I have seen some higher output models but I wanted to hear your opinion before doing anything. I am also switching to the batteries you recommend!!!
Pretty good video, however you claimed voltage in way to many cases which would actually be amperage causing the problem. 14v is not much at all, but 1000 amps is a LOT.
Odyssey AGM is the best battery for 7.3. The two I had in my truck lasted over 7 years. Funniest part is I got them used for $50 a piece!!!! The batteries are expensive but well worth it.
Based on how the alternator feeds the passenger side battery which feeds the driver’s side battery, is one battery preferred over the other for placing my power cable for my big stereo system?
I haven’t been able to find this information anywhere, great video! Do you happen to know the length of all the battery wires? Negative and positive thanks!
Thank you Clint...I've been watching your videos for a last couple of months, trying to figure out my starting issues...you have great information & I appreciate the way you communicate/explain things! I was curious of what your thoughts were when it came to Optima AGM Yellow Top Battery DH6 Group Size 48 800 CCA vs Odyssey Battery 48-720T Group Size 48 723 CCA, that you recommend. In the early 90's I owned a car stereo shop & we only used Optima, but I have a friend that works at Interstate battery here in the SF Bay Area & says that the company was sold to a Mexican Co. & that they are crap now. (1996 F350, 7.3L Powerstroke, crew cab, long bed, 4x4)...Thank you for your time, much appreciated !
I don’t know if you’ve already done it but can you make a video detailing how you wired the fuses separately in glove box? I’m looking to change battery terminals, add lugs and wire in an amp for my stereo system. One last request is visually take us through common sensors on a 7.3. I have a 95 obs and am looking to replace sensors as preventative maintenance as I’m not sure which have even been done by previous owner. It’s at 228k miles currently. Thanks for your time and help.
Ohh yes with the factory connectors Ive not had this issue with the odyssey batteries and those multi connectors before these I cleaned and sprayed my post every 6 months
Great vid! I’m a lifer car audio guy so I greatly appreciate this topic. I plan to upgrade all the battery cables on my 7.3, already have those copper lugs to build my own cables, good stuff. Can’t decide between car audio OFC or welding cable. Plus thinking about an aftermarket alt like the Mechman 240A. I didn’t see that brand coming on the battery recommendation. Nice! 👍🏻 Thank you!
Don't waste your $. You can get a large case hairpin for the 6.4, the main alt, and it bolts right to your truck, 7.3 and 6.0. 250 amps, hot, 180 at idle, all day long. Cost me $158, shipped. I'm a car audio guy as well, and if you see my videos, you know I ain't playing. Don't pay $450 for a small case hairpin that does shitty idle current. A unmodded, stock, large case hairpin like I mentioned will run circles around the small guy. For less than half the cost. More reliability, more power. Less mechanical energy required. The downside, it's heavier. That's it.
@@randalln.587 it's the same, however the terminal layout is different. You'll want to connect pins bvs, and rl together to self excite the alternator. You'll need to rev to 1100 rpm to "turn on" the alternator. It's actually handy, so the alternator doesn't turn on until the glow plugs are off. It could cause swelling since they are designed to work at 11 Volts. I personally have not had that problem with genuine motorcraft zd11's, but I change mine out every few years or so as preventative maintenance, and have never had a problem at all. Your mileage may vary, but this is truly the best option.. I recently built it myself into a 370a alternator, and when I pulled the guts out of the unit I bought from eBay for $158, it was all genuine parts inside. Even the brushes and regulator were genuine, Japanese Nippon denso. Rectifier, rotor, stator, all genuine. Even the case is a genuine fomoco. HELL of a deal man. You absolutely will NOT beat the value for the $. Not only that, but the build quality was impeccable. I was quite impressed. Anyway, I rebuilt it into a 370a hit rated unit, I have a clamp test doing 388 amps at 2000 rpm. It's the latest video on my channel. Have a look. Anyway... Genuine Reman large case, 158, new rotor and stator was $270, I'm out the door for $428, baddest alternator on the planet. Does the same numbers as the other manufacturers. Mechman and DC want almost twice that much. AND I don't have transpo Chinese reproduction rectifiers and regulators to leave me stranded somewhere. The best of both worlds. I'll get ya a link now.
That truck runs a custom 6 battery configuration and that connector is held in place with 2 connection strapping s been like that since 2006 never had a issue
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I've always bought the Walmart batteries but this last time I bought Advance Auto batteries, Auto Craft, maybe a 1½ old now and I noticed the other day the right battery was low in one cell and the left battery was very low on acid in 3 cells. My next purchase will be the Odyssey batteries. 👍👍now that's as soon as I put a code scanner on her to figure out my no start, lol. I know it could be a number of reasons including the CPS that I swapped 3 times and still nothing but now I've got a Motorcraft CPS I'll try. Thanks again! 👍 Jay.
@@jettmcintyre6226 brother I tried everything 🤭 but ya know we always force ourselves into thinking it's something major and it ended up being the one thing I never thought of, until I had one of those "ah haaaa" moments or rather in my case, "duh huh" moments. Started checking fuses under the hood and the pcm fuse was blown 😆 a $5 20amp fuse. Needless to say I've invested in mini fuses and MAXI fuses lol.
I, first always plug in the block heater when it's cold out, and I swap out my NAPA Premium Gold deep cycle batteries about 3 to 4 years... then I re-furb them and use them in my cars, all 3 Crown Vicks have the re-furbs in them and get another 3 to 5 years out of them! Well I guess my next pair well be the Odessy battries 😎😎
Awesome video thanks for sharing! I bought (2) new "maxx" batteries from a place called Walmart and they lasted 6 years 7 months to the day and on that day i realized the battery idiot light in the dash in my 2002 excursion 7.3 diesel wasnt lying to me. I have a 2013 bmw M5, that still has the factory AGM bmw battery in the trunk. I didnt believe the guy who i bought the car from, but found bmw engraves the month and year on top of the battery terminal. Sure shit, battery is over 10 yrs old and still going strong. You made this video a yr ago, with your batteries 11 yrs old at the time, i have to ask, are those batteries still good at 12 yrs old? Do tell!
"Recycled lead!" Lead is an element, so there's that. Lead being an element, the construction and manufacturing techniques used in the Odyssey batteries is likely what makes the difference.
Hi, I never could see the specific model number of the batteries you have in the video. I recently bought a 1995 7.3 E350 and noticed that the batteries it calls for are two different sizes, one 600 Amp group 50 and the other an 850 amp group 65. Should I look to replace them with batteries of the same size to each other or go with what was originally in there, and if so why? Also, what CCA should I be looking at? I am specifically looking at the Odyssey batteries but my 1995 van is not even listed on their site. In other words, what would YOU put in my van if it were yours? Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.
The difference in size is location based . I install new cables and a new pan when I switch out batteries at the shop and always install odyssey extreme start / long duration 850 65 pair Having matched batteries always extends there life. Mismatched 600 / 850 will have one always trying to balance the other and causing extra heat
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Looking around on their website I am having a hard time matching up your description with the available models. I don't see anything that says long duration on there.
If u have fix your speedo yet try the vss on top of your rear end pumpkin or the pig tail plug in that was my problem and if u have a automatic transmission it can make it shift funny hope it helps good luck
Great tutorial but you didn't say much about the terminal on the other side of the battery. Why so negative about the negative? So can I assume to ground to the engine and rely on braided ground straps throughout? I like the multi tap terminal but please comment on grounding. Thank you
I have a 2002 f450 super duty 7.3 I've put three alternators on there remanufactured and then the last one I put brand new something keeps shorting out the regulator making them go bad I replaced the batteries and I replaced the solenoid on top of the motor I don't know what else it could be any suggestions
this is what ive run into over the years first hook up a voltage gauge to the cig lighter a good alternator with no issues in the electric system should be at 14.3 to 14 v all the time so drive around as normal for a few days if that voltage drops off at a idle we now know there is a issue some where . I have seen connections at the battery come loose from the engine from hot to cold cycle and it may look good but one battey will be hot and one will be normal no temp gauge needed your hand will tell the difference, Ive had a shorting wire to the starter the connection is to close to the block not touching but will throw voltage to ground, bad grounds to the block or chassis the ground from frame to cab under the pass front door is a good one to fail and block behind exhaust down pipe , small wire short on frame to rear lights also after market or self installed power wires shorting and or to close to high voltage factory wires or to close to ecm or idm wires and last but not least a failing bcm 02's are good for this that box operates the security and door locks and a couple other items
My system is very different i'm running 4 batteries But we always install 4 ga from the alternator and #1 welding cable to the starter and other battery
I have purchased Odyssey Batteries, HD battery cables, Denso gear reduction starter, and Im getting a Mechman HD alternator. Do you recommend that the starter be wired direct to the battery or is using the Ford alternator plug sufficient? I will obviously take your advice and put on a better connector plug. In speaking with Mechman they claim it is not necessary to wire direct to Battery. I was wondering your thoughts...
That is good to know. Would you suggest swapping the batteries from left to right periodically? I will look at an odyssey batteries on next purchase. I have always bought 2 batteries at a time.
The video is interesting, but please take a circuits/electricity class. Most of the claims about 'voltage', 'resistance', etc. were incorrect as much as most - not all - of the practical advice was reasonable. And no, I won't 'just relax', especially because there are some fundamental misunderstandings: as soon as the engine is running and the alternator is outputting current, any voltage issues which cause driveability issues are NOT related to the batteries because the regulator of the alternator is what is keeping a constant voltage in the system. The only exception to that is when the batteries are so far discharged that the alternator cannot keep the voltage up because it runs into its current limit. Also, as batteries age, their capacity decreases, therefore their capacity to receive power decreases - thus with old batteries you will, at most, have a brief period in which the alternator struggles to stuff power into batteries, then they will have taken all that they can and at that point the alternator is in steady state and taking care of the power requirements of the vehicle as it should. It is however true that SWAPPING the two batteries from time to time will help preserve them, because the way the wiring is (both stock and the way you rebuilt it) causes the driverside battery to be used a lot less than the passenger side. OTOH, everything after minute 15:00 goes so far into inaccurate that it should really come with a large 'caution' sign. Among other things, the Odyssey batteries that are 11 years old have NOTHING to do with those that you can buy today - so yes, the old ones were better. But even disregarding that, the whole recycled vs. new argument is just incorrect.
I put in 2 AGM units within 3 days of each other. Hoping "all is good" with this move. (2001 7.3 liter Dually with 251k miles on her. New OEM injectors greatly reduced engine noise and cold starting! Also 5w40 Rotella.
I have a1999 ford f350 7.3 the alternator at night is sucking my batteries dry. When the positive wire is on ,it shows a 330milie amp draw. When un hooked it shows a 19 million amp draw. I hope you can help me fix this, thanks
Iv got a 1999 f350, I put a new alternator, new battery’s, and a new alternator plug, and the battery light comes on and off when I turn it off and have it running, what can it be?
Have you used a multimeter and checked the bolt on the back of the Alternator for charging voltage? Is that voltage making it to the batteries? Check this after GPR has shut off. Both voltages should be above 13V to 14.4v. Have you checked the fuses with a test light? If you unplug the connection at the alternator does the light go OUT It is not uncommon to get a bad alternator right out of the box The charging lead at the battery on the passenger side needs to have connections checked also you may want to get forscan pro with amzn.to/3zaBBzh Ignition off: 12.68v both batteries, connected 13.0v Driver's battery, disconnected 12.83v Passenger battery, disconnected 0.26v Orange (A/sense) alternator harness wire (+ on wire, - on battery - terminal) 0.11v Green (B/control) alternator harness wire (+ on wire, - on battery - terminal) Ignition on, engine running: 14.41v both batteries connected Ignition on, engine not running: 0.26v Orange (A/sense) alternator harness wire (+ on wire, - on battery - terminal) 12.41v Green (B/control) alternator harness wire (+ on wire, - on battery - terminal)
Good morning brother I appreciate all your advice I’m in the process of finding the odyssey batteries but boy I’m I running into some major issues I’m not sure if it because of current issues maybe you can point me in the right direction I’m trying to get it going before to long because of work but if you have an idea on where to go I’m in Albuquerque NM BUT I THINK AT odyssey themselves are looking at two weeks delivery
We ordered straight from Odyssey on our Trans Am Denali project fulfillment is at least 2 weeks but it was a very specific dual post battery I do know you can search retailers on there web site there are local box stores that have them in stock in my State Fleet Farm has them and at pre Covid pre inflation prices You might find the same Other wise order and wait we are in strange times Hey
Well dang it, I checked the Odyssey battery company and they only sell the Left side battery and not the right. That shoots the matched battery theory completely.
the Batteries sit in the truck reverse each other so yes the same listed battery works for both side You where talking to an official idiot who ever told you that
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD It may be different on my 96 conversion van. I have always used two different batteries cause the big one on the drivers side would never fit in the passenger side slot. In fact that smaller battery is a specialty battery that they call the "ambulance battery" and NAPA charges me an arm and a leg for it. I have never been able to find a generic substitute for that one.
I could use some help I have a 7.3 I’ve put 3 Alternators in Had new batteries New belt New alternator pig tail new alternator will not charge Old one does but only if you rev truck up to 2500 to 3k it will charge for hrs this way u till you shut truck off then you gotta rev it again . If you don’t rev it up the batteries will drain completely dead to the point the headlight are very very dim dash lights dim So truck not running checking at alternator I have 12.45 Truck running before i rev it to 25/3k it is at 11.70 After I do the little rev trick it’s at 13.71 it will stay at 13.71 for hours unless the truck is shut off and restarted then I have to rev it again to get it back up to 13.71 I’m ready to pull my f’n hair out The only thing I see is when the key is turned on the battery light does not light up . Doesn’t light up ever tbh
I don't think your batteries are bad. The glow plugs will draw a lot of juice from the batteries that may take a while to charge back up at idle. Revving the engine will certainly speed up how quickly the batteries are charged backup. Though, this may not be the problem, it is something to keep in mind. Leaving the multi-meter leads connected to the battery, the voltage on the passenger side should be 13.5 to 14.5 with the engine running. That says the alternator is working as it should.
Clint, you are saying "Voltage", it is the CURRENT draw that is burning up the wires and connectors, not the Voltage. Power equals amps Squared times Volts. BIG solid connectors like you are showing keeps the Voltage Drop to a Minimum, which is critical as you suggest. The Fatter the Cable, the less Voltage drop at High current demands. I have a 320 Amp MechMan alternator, my Cables are Humongous and BIG connectors.
Where do you get those battery cable connections. I have been looking for years for something like that always having battery post problem. Please email me where to purchase
Battery voltage... 13.1 is not "resting battery voltage"... for a lead acid battery... Look up "fuzz charge"... As a 20 plus year owner of a 7.3 fleet... the positive wires can become a problem, but the "norm" is the ground is not heavy enough... (Ground, Battery to body, and battery to motor) and all battery terminal ends are weak, junk...!
My 99 7.3 was very hard to start under 35°F. I replaced the glow plug relay on the old lady a few weeks ago and it now starts better than it did for years. Still, I think I need to replace some glow plugs. If that doesn't do it, I will face the daunting task of replacing the low pressure oil pump. Also, I'm going to replace/upgrade the battery cables, especially the starter cable. Older cables are very likely to be somewhat degraded and producing excessive voltage resistance.
your videos have quickly become some of my favorite and #1 most trusted. I enjoy the knowledge, being new to 7.3 and diesel. I would like to see some more "how to's"
Me too We have been very loaded with business and I'm itching to get back with all the new video equipment I bought
In our fire department we rotated our engines batteries every 3 months and also separated the system for clean side (For all of our computers/radios/GPS) batteries and dirty side (Engine start/lights, etc). Before we started doing this our City shops were constantly replacing our batteries. Great info for people to be aware of.
Xxxzx7ccdxcxc d xx😅😅
Very helpful. I have a very clean 7.3 excursion, but I’m doing a complete overhaul for a reliability build as it’s our tow vehicle for my lake boat and I don’t want to spend time on the side of the road on vacations.
I started electrical system. Glad you said odyssey because I just got two brand new ones. I bought a 250amp alternator. I did a big 3, but also am running 1/0 from battery to battery and ground. Replacing the starter with an upgraded starter. Replacing the cable from starter to battery. Replacing glow plugs, cap, valve cover seal and harness - while I’m in there I’ll re-seal the injectors and replace the cups with my overly-expensive injector cup tool from riffraff.
I’m adding an F650 dash panel for switches for the accessories and then might put the separate fuse box in glove compartment or if there is pace under the accessory switch.
The main harness I’m still researching. I’d like to replace it, but I also want to make it better. I think you mentioned you replaced the wire with 4 gauge. The gauge wire that comes with it looks like it’s super flimsy, I haven’t tested it yet as I’m mid project and haven’t gotten to that.
Put in odyssey batteries in my f350 7.3 yesterday, turned over the fastest I have ever seen or heard. Thanks
Nothing like a new starter and batteries.
Good decent info. the whole time you were explaining and showing the batt connector, My eyes were glued to the LOW water level in your overflow tank.
I replaced a pair of superstart AGM’s that were 15 years old on the 03 7.3 long bed crew I bought a couple of years ago. I was impressed that there was zero corrosion on my battery terminals. Turned out it was the starter, and I could have gone longer on them, but it is good to know I can expect a good 10 years and no corrosion. They were less than $250 each at the time.
Would love to have a set of those, and what you said makes total sense, but they are out of my retired budget price range. I'll have to save up after my next time changing batteries next year. Until then I might have to stick with the MotorCraft BXT-65-850's at ~$204.00 x 2 = 408.00 x %11 Tax = $452.88
Odyssey has two batteries for the truck;
- P/N: ODP-AGM65 (65-760) W CCA 762 Price; $338.99 X 2 = $677.98 Plus 11% Tax = $752.56
or
- P/N: ODX-AGM65 (65-PC1750) W CCA 950 Price; $391.99 X 2 = $783.98 Plus %11 Tax = $870.22
Thanks for sharing Clint. Keep up the great videos. Keith Noneya
Great information, right on point. Cant wait to see more 7.3 PSD!
I bought my 7.3 with mismatched batteries. I never thought it was an issue. Now I have an alternator going out and the battery light flashing. Never would have thought it had to do with mismatched batteries. Thank you for your help.
Good vid. All of the lead refineries in this country have been shut down. So all lead comes from offshore. Odyssey batts are good, if you're looking for something less expensive Penn State/Deka are rebranded into many brands and its hard to find who's who but its worth it. Optima used to make great batteries (late 90's early 2000s), but the last few were not as long lasting as the early ones. They changed mfg facilities around the same time as the longevity went down...
Thanks!
THANK YOU VERY MUCH
Just replaced my interstate batteries six year warranty I got exactly 6 years. And the one battery was reading 9 V
(All kinds of issues with it running.)
Replaced with odyssey batteries. Runs a lot better .
Thanks
Thank you Cliff. Being a newbie with both diesel and my dad's 96 F250 7.3 I am so thank I found your channel. Recently after upgrading to LEDs through our the cab I noticed the alternator gauge as well as the rpm fluctuating at startup. After checking battery cables and clamps I am seeing all the issues you mentioned. Guess I've got a busy weekend ahead of me.😅
Clint, sorry of the wrong name 😢
Very good information thanks so much. God bless.
Best thing I ever did along with my good high CCA batteries, copper connections and 5w-40 synthetic motor oil, was when it comes time to replace the starter is to put in a Nipendenso unit.. of course you have to check out the glow plug system every fall and make sure everything is up to par along with a new fuel filter. But the starter upgrade is amazing! I regularly have started in well below zero weather with no electricity available for block heating with ease!
Next alternator I'm gonna run is one out of the 6.4 they bolt right up. The two smaller wires you put those together. And once you hit 1100rpm it comes on. Which is good for glow plugs from what I heard. They don't like but lower voltage cuz they tend to swell at 13.8 14v. Love this video.
Can I just say thank you for the advice regarding having two of the same batteries. I invested in two red top optima batteries to replace my mismatched batteries and wow! The engine is NOTICEABLY running smoother. Even the injectors sound happier. Throttle response is also a lot more smoother. Thank you so much for the advice!
yOUR WELCOME My goal is to put out the best info to help the PS owners
Give me more!!!!! Lolll
!@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD
My 97 7.3 alternator burned out in 2019. (Not too bad, but at a bad time, snow storm and plow on, had to pull batteries up on a toboggan 1/2 mile up hill to charge up). (Yes, up hill on way back too). Great video
Would running another 4 gauge wire from the alternator to the second battery help keep them more balanced?
Thanks man you've been a big help I really like how you explain everything I appreciate that
Glad to hear it!
Hi Clint, thanks for the battery info. It was much appreciated. I just completed rebuilding the fuel bowl today. What a pain in the butt!! But it is done, NO LEAKS. The batteries have been replaced with Motircraft OEM a few years back , as my wife’s son informed me. My next replacement is the block heater and cord. I will also get some copper lugs, and I have quite an assortment of various gauge wire. That will be my spring project!!
2001 7.3 here. I was thanking about purchasing Odyssey batteries after seeing this video. Purchased two new Motocraft 850 cca back in 10/2019 had charging issues just recently and replaced my alternators I have two. Before changing the alternators I would check my voltage and the battery read 12.5 volts my thinking 90 percent going on three years I need to start looking for batteries before winter later in 2022. Since replacing both alternators and before starting, my batteries are at 12.8 12.9 volts. And I believe having bad alternators burned out an IDM. Once I crank my engine over it immediately jumps up 12.5 13.5 14 volts in a matter of seconds on cold days I used to count the seconds it would take for the battery light to go out 30 seconds sometimes longer. Let's see how long these batteries last for. But I tell you I do like the odysseys and 950 cold cranking amps.
This is pretty interesting. I have got the original wiring on my 2000 7.3 296k miles, and its on its 2nd alternator. Have always just miss match replaced the batteries with recycled/reman. Never left me stranded, replace the batteries on average once every 4-6yrs. I do always use a battery minder. Same for 06 jeep and 2005 Ram 5.9l. I might try the battery upgrade next time they need replacement just to see how much of a difference it makes.
I completely agree with what you have said. But.... those batteries that you are running, are not your standard lead acid batteries. They are in fact AGM batteries. Now, with that being said, I have a small towing company and i switched all of my trucks (both towing and service trucks) to the AGM batteries a few years ago, and almost instantly, most of our battery and or charging system problems disappeared. Yes, AGM does cost more, upfront... but after buying 21 batteries (some of the tow trucks take 3 batteries) every 3 years for 15 years, i haven't had to replace any in the last 5. As always Sir, excellent video with a TON of useful information!!!
AGM batteries are the right battery type for a diesel that’s near the engine. They handle the vibration, heat and start cycles much better than lead acid battery types. Yes more expensive but they can last 2 to 10 times longer. 😊
On our personal 2012 F350 6.7
We made it 11 years on the factory Motorcraft batteries.
And during those years we were in BC Canada, Texas and the desert South West.
When I retired I was working for a government motorpool as a mechanic. The fleet was 150 peices of rolling stock, gas, diesel, SUVs to class 8 trucks and heavy equipment.
On newer machines you have to go in and tell the vehicle computer that you changed bulbs, changed batteries, ect. Because of how tight the systems monitors and controls ALL the systems and functions.
Forget to tell the PCM/BCM and things will burn out.
Is there a specific alternator brand that you recommend? Do you recommend a high output alternator upgrade?
Love your videos and thanks for sharing them. What alternator brand do you recommend for a 2003 F-350 dually 7.3. Thanks
Napa has brand new alternators that never have let me down don't get a reman
Thanks for the great videos Clint. I am replacing my alternator and bought the Odyssey ODX-AGM65 based on your suggestions and am doing this upgrade. I have have two questions, first should the new wires be soldered or crimped? Secondly, should the ground wires on the batteries and starter also be upgraded to a thicker gauge or is it good to go with the stock wires? At least I think the starter has a ground. I apologize in advance, I am very new to doing this type of thing. Thank you!
Yes would be a very good idea to upgrade grounds and power cables to welding cables Also the starter cable I use 1o welding cable and it has reduced starter replacement in my trucks and I added a ground post at the starter from the battery
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Aye, Aye Captain! Many Thanks!
Your videos have been a great help with my 1997 f350 restoration.
Thank you 🍻✌
From my experience as a commercial fisherman, I use a high quality terminal block mounted remotely, supplying the voltage with heavy duty wire. Than run your other wires to it neatly.
I like how your clutch master cylinder is mounted the same exact way as mine!!😂
I have the same alternator on my Windstar & Freestar vans. I always get 250,000 miles minimum on them. I know they don't work as hard as they would with a diesel & 2 batteries, but they should still last pretty good if the wiring system is good. I have used the same alternator on my 79 F-350 with high compression engine & 2 Group 27 batteries. I used that pickup when I worked on a farm to jumpstart most of the tractors, combines, & construction equipment. It lasted for the 5 years that I worked there. And yes, replace all batteries on each vehicle at the same time. Use at least 1/0 cables & keep the connections clean. That said, I didn't know about the battery tech. You really do learn something new every day.
You Were not F×××ing around.
I just dropped 2 Odyssey batteries in the 99, 7 Tree.
I put them in and became a believer!
Taking the shitty Wally World Maxx batteries from my 01 Excursion and dropping another $900.00 for a set of batteries..
Thank you SO MUCH!
Great videos and instructions ; Thanks for all you do.
Hey Allen do you have video on whats the cause of low voltage showing in the instrument cluster?
I have this 1994 dump 7.3 and you are about to be my go to guy thanks for all the intel that you provide 💪
Right on!
Great video
I will definitely try the Odessy batteries.
However, I do have a question.
What alternator do you recommend for a 7.3 ?
I noticed on my alternator there is NO 10mm bolt/nut that holds cable to the. Alternator
Looking at getting a new alternator. Been looking around and a company named Hagemeister makes a one wire alternator. Thinking about going this route. Thoughts?
The van is somewhat new to me I bought it around February-march with 171,500 it now sits at 176kz they guy I bought it from said if you don't start it in a few days it wouldn't sometimes start so that's telling me it has a parasitic draw somewhere or weak batteries? Ok so I drive it like that and never really had an issue starting it since I was using it quite often and wouldn't sit more than 3-5 days. Went to start it one day and "click" when I tried to crank it. Kept trying to crank it and it kept clicking without any starter engagement. I cleaned the posts on the battery in the engine bay and made sure the connections were tight. It didn't seem to affect anything as it kept clicking, finally I got lucky and it engaged the starter and it fired up, drove it home with no running issues ran fine. Took out the starter and had it rebuilt at a reputable shop, took it home, installed it and bam fired up first try and that starter sounded strong! I never heard the starter wind up that fast! (So at this point I dont know if it was actually the starter or it was that my batteries were charged again but once I put that starter it started quick and strong.)
So I took a trip from Tucson Az up to Modesto and the van started fine and super strong with this rebuilt starter the trip took me about 3-4 days and if I had to guess about 30-40 starts of the engine. I get to Modesto and guess what I crank it to start and "click" again just like before and these clicks sound like what a starting solenoid does. I tried key off and crack about 7-10 times and nothing just click. I do the old hit the start with a wrench get back in the van and go to crack and it starts. I basically only had about 5 more starts after that. I got down to the 2nd battery and it looked old! And the connections had that white stuff it gets when it's not cleaned. I have the batteries tested at auto zone and the engine bay battery checks out good but the 2nd one tests bad so I get it replaced with auto zones better batteries. I go back to the van thinking I didn't have a battery working so it must start! And same thing, click! Just like before.
I take it to a shop in Modesto they said the batteries were dead and it had a bad starter after only about 2000 miles! They charge the batteries and replace the starter with a Ford Motorcraft Remab and they call me and they say it's good to go mileage when they changed it was around 173k- 174k.
So here we are at 176k and the issue popped up again.
Sorry for the long post, and let me know what you think. I want to get this thing fixed because I need it to be reliable for me and I want to take it to someone who knows about these vans and the 7.3 engines. Thanks for responding and the info! It's really appreciated
Thanks again. Great info on the batteries!! First time I heard that.
Thanks for watching!
I have used 850 cca batteries changed in pairs and paid the awful sum of $650 per pair I have had to replace them more than seven times over team years the only time I caught a break was when the truck sat for three years.
I have gone through a starter three alternator’s and a starter relay or solenoid. I’m probably a candidate for the wiring harness and where can I get someone who isn’t going to mess around with wires under the dash when they install a radio?
find a installer and tell them what your wishes are that you don't want them diddling with the wires just use the factory radio wires only
Being a mariner I always use tinned wiring connectors to cut down on corrosion. Shrink to fit with glue inside keeps out water and then dielectric to finish it off. I do dislike bad electric wiring. Here at 4200 feet in the mountains I use a battery maintainer, NOCO 2 amp for $50. I plug it in all winter and always have a fully charged battery.
Love all your videos thanks for sharing all your knowledge. Would you know if you have time or anybody reading comments what might cause the alternator to buzz with just the key on? Cheap eBay alt? Or grounded wire? I fixing to do a new harness real soon. Got a bunch of stuff to catch up on.
This needs diagnosis in person , guessing on past repairs the alternator has a fried something grounding to the case or wires coming to the alternator have a rubbed through to a ground
If the batteries were side by side with just a few inches of cable connecting them, would that have any effect on uneven current draw?
Great Content.
Thankyou!
Hi Clint. I’m grateful for the channel. I have a 2001 7.3 PSD. My problem is it’s an E350. A Van!!!
Can you give me the best way to get at things? What do you do? Take off fenders? Any way to make it easier to work on.
Thanks, Doug Lambert
Just bought me some fresh lead odyssey batteries 950 cca along with a new alternator that is a virgin alternator and not reman. About 1k later my flickering battery light is gone. Hope to have 11 years plus out of them.
Not sure if this is a good idea, but I’m waiting for gpr to disengage not the light, batteries to be full prior to start. Trucks starts faster and more juices to starter. I no longer look at glow light but volts instead. Makes a big difference IMO
Which alternator do you recommend besides stock motorcraft? I have seen some higher output models but I wanted to hear your opinion before doing anything. I am also switching to the batteries you recommend!!!
Pretty good video, however you claimed voltage in way to many cases which would actually be amperage causing the problem. 14v is not much at all, but 1000 amps is a LOT.
Thanks for the video my friend!
Odyssey AGM is the best battery for 7.3. The two I had in my truck lasted over 7 years. Funniest part is I got them used for $50 a piece!!!! The batteries are expensive but well worth it.
I've seen where the ground cables on the front of the block, need to be addressed, have you come across this situation?
Love all your content Clint. You run the "Performance" line from Odyssey. Have you looked @ the "Extreme" line?
First time watching your video and they are good!! Definitely gonna be watching more of your channel!
Welcome aboard!
Based on how the alternator feeds the passenger side battery which feeds the driver’s side battery, is one battery preferred over the other for placing my power cable for my big stereo system?
if you can't swing a dual battery splitter to power a 3rd battery hook to driver side
I haven’t been able to find this information anywhere, great video! Do you happen to know the length of all the battery wires? Negative and positive thanks!
Thank you Clint...I've been watching your videos for a last couple of months, trying to figure out my starting issues...you have great information & I appreciate the way you communicate/explain things! I was curious of what your thoughts were when it came to Optima AGM Yellow Top Battery DH6 Group Size 48 800 CCA vs Odyssey Battery 48-720T Group Size 48 723 CCA, that you recommend. In the early 90's I owned a car stereo shop & we only used Optima, but I have a friend that works at Interstate battery here in the SF Bay Area & says that the company was sold to a Mexican Co. & that they are crap now. (1996 F350, 7.3L Powerstroke, crew cab, long bed, 4x4)...Thank you for your time, much appreciated !
I don’t know if you’ve already done it but can you make a video detailing how you wired the fuses separately in glove box? I’m looking to change battery terminals, add lugs and wire in an amp for my stereo system.
One last request is visually take us through common sensors on a 7.3. I have a 95 obs and am looking to replace sensors as preventative maintenance as I’m not sure which have even been done by previous owner. It’s at 228k miles currently. Thanks for your time and help.
Another great video. Thanks! Do you have an altenator brand to recommend for my dual alt 2000 F250 7.3?
Do you recommend using a battery post spray protectant? It seems to help my truck from getting corrosion build up and bad connections
Ohh yes with the factory connectors Ive not had this issue with the odyssey batteries and those multi connectors before these I cleaned and sprayed my post every 6 months
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD I have Optima batteries and they have lasted 12 years so far and no issues
Great vid! I’m a lifer car audio guy so I greatly appreciate this topic. I plan to upgrade all the battery cables on my 7.3, already have those copper lugs to build my own cables, good stuff. Can’t decide between car audio OFC or welding cable. Plus thinking about an aftermarket alt like the Mechman 240A. I didn’t see that brand coming on the battery recommendation. Nice! 👍🏻 Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Don't waste your $. You can get a large case hairpin for the 6.4, the main alt, and it bolts right to your truck, 7.3 and 6.0. 250 amps, hot, 180 at idle, all day long. Cost me $158, shipped.
I'm a car audio guy as well, and if you see my videos, you know I ain't playing. Don't pay $450 for a small case hairpin that does shitty idle current. A unmodded, stock, large case hairpin like I mentioned will run circles around the small guy. For less than half the cost. More reliability, more power. Less mechanical energy required.
The downside, it's heavier. That's it.
@@georgesrisomsak9650 does the plug from a 6.4 same as 7.3? The small one?/small wires? T.y. good to know.
@@randalln.587 it's the same, however the terminal layout is different. You'll want to connect pins bvs, and rl together to self excite the alternator. You'll need to rev to 1100 rpm to "turn on" the alternator. It's actually handy, so the alternator doesn't turn on until the glow plugs are off. It could cause swelling since they are designed to work at 11 Volts. I personally have not had that problem with genuine motorcraft zd11's, but I change mine out every few years or so as preventative maintenance, and have never had a problem at all. Your mileage may vary, but this is truly the best option..
I recently built it myself into a 370a alternator, and when I pulled the guts out of the unit I bought from eBay for $158, it was all genuine parts inside. Even the brushes and regulator were genuine, Japanese Nippon denso. Rectifier, rotor, stator, all genuine. Even the case is a genuine fomoco. HELL of a deal man. You absolutely will NOT beat the value for the $. Not only that, but the build quality was impeccable. I was quite impressed.
Anyway, I rebuilt it into a 370a hit rated unit, I have a clamp test doing 388 amps at 2000 rpm. It's the latest video on my channel. Have a look. Anyway...
Genuine Reman large case, 158, new rotor and stator was $270, I'm out the door for $428, baddest alternator on the planet. Does the same numbers as the other manufacturers. Mechman and DC want almost twice that much. AND I don't have transpo Chinese reproduction rectifiers and regulators to leave me stranded somewhere.
The best of both worlds. I'll get ya a link now.
@@georgesrisomsak9650 awesome info George Thankyou. So the 158. off ebay was the 6.4 alt? Sounds like an awesome deal. Thanks again..
Why is your hot lead running up??
Either rotate it to stress less your existing connector. Or get.. or bend it's lug to a 90.
That truck runs a custom 6 battery configuration and that connector is held in place with 2 connection strapping s been like that since 2006 never had a issue
Like the video. I have one question what kind of welding wire did you use? Were can I get some of the welding wire?
Ebay any size and length custom ////WELDING CABLE 1/0 RED Per-Foot CAR BATTERY LEADS USA NEW Gauge Copper Solar
temco_industrial (191962)
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I've always bought the Walmart batteries but this last time I bought Advance Auto batteries, Auto Craft, maybe a 1½ old now and I noticed the other day the right battery was low in one cell and the left battery was very low on acid in 3 cells. My next purchase will be the Odyssey batteries. 👍👍now that's as soon as I put a code scanner on her to figure out my no start, lol. I know it could be a number of reasons including the CPS that I swapped 3 times and still nothing but now I've got a Motorcraft CPS I'll try. Thanks again! 👍 Jay.
Same here. Auto craft batteries after 2 years are weak
unplug your icp and try
@@jettmcintyre6226 brother I tried everything 🤭 but ya know we always force ourselves into thinking it's something major and it ended up being the one thing I never thought of, until I had one of those "ah haaaa" moments or rather in my case, "duh huh" moments. Started checking fuses under the hood and the pcm fuse was blown 😆 a $5 20amp fuse.
Needless to say I've invested in mini fuses and MAXI fuses lol.
@@silvergrizzly316 i have definitely been there😂😂
I, first always plug in the block heater when it's cold out, and I swap out my NAPA Premium Gold deep cycle batteries about 3 to 4 years... then I re-furb them and use them in my cars, all 3 Crown Vicks have the re-furbs in them and get another 3 to 5 years out of them! Well I guess my next pair well be the Odessy battries 😎😎
If the alternator is overcharging can it short out fuel injectors
no but it can mess up the computer and driver unit
Awesome video thanks for sharing! I bought (2) new "maxx" batteries from a place called Walmart and they lasted 6 years 7 months to the day and on that day i realized the battery idiot light in the dash in my 2002 excursion 7.3 diesel wasnt lying to me. I have a 2013 bmw M5, that still has the factory AGM bmw battery in the trunk. I didnt believe the guy who i bought the car from, but found bmw engraves the month and year on top of the battery terminal. Sure shit, battery is over 10 yrs old and still going strong. You made this video a yr ago, with your batteries 11 yrs old at the time, i have to ask, are those batteries still good at 12 yrs old? Do tell!
"Recycled lead!"
Lead is an element, so there's that.
Lead being an element, the construction and manufacturing techniques used in the Odyssey batteries is likely what makes the difference.
@custom works where did you get that terminal add on shown at 15:29? Thanks
Hi, I never could see the specific model number of the batteries you have in the video. I recently bought a 1995 7.3 E350 and noticed that the batteries it calls for are two different sizes, one 600 Amp group 50 and the other an 850 amp group 65. Should I look to replace them with batteries of the same size to each other or go with what was originally in there, and if so why? Also, what CCA should I be looking at? I am specifically looking at the Odyssey batteries but my 1995 van is not even listed on their site. In other words, what would YOU put in my van if it were yours? Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.
The difference in size is location based . I install new cables and a new pan when I switch out batteries at the shop and always install odyssey extreme start / long duration 850 65 pair Having matched batteries always extends there life. Mismatched 600 / 850 will have one always trying to balance the other and causing extra heat
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Looking around on their website I am having a hard time matching up your description with the available models. I don't see anything that says long duration on there.
I only had luck with ford batteries that last but 4 years isnt to bad
Love your work, the issue I have with my 95 7.3 is that the speedometer needle sweeps when I go over 60 mph .
Have you ever seen this?
sensor on rear axle / PSOM module / OD driver motor Highest poss issues all 3 can be removed inspected and tested my guess OD driver motor
If u have fix your speedo yet try the vss on top of your rear end pumpkin or the pig tail plug in that was my problem and if u have a automatic transmission it can make it shift funny hope it helps good luck
Great tutorial but you didn't say much about the terminal on the other side of the battery. Why so negative about the negative? So can I assume to ground to the engine and rely on braided ground straps throughout? I like the multi tap terminal but please comment on grounding. Thank you
I have a 2002 f450 super duty 7.3 I've put three alternators on there remanufactured and then the last one I put brand new something keeps shorting out the regulator making them go bad I replaced the batteries and I replaced the solenoid on top of the motor I don't know what else it could be any suggestions
this is what ive run into over the years first hook up a voltage gauge to the cig lighter a good alternator with no issues in the electric system should be at 14.3 to 14 v all the time so drive around as normal for a few days if that voltage drops off at a idle we now know there is a issue some where . I have seen connections at the battery come loose from the engine from hot to cold cycle and it may look good but one battey will be hot and one will be normal no temp gauge needed your hand will tell the difference, Ive had a shorting wire to the starter the connection is to close to the block not touching but will throw voltage to ground, bad grounds to the block or chassis the ground from frame to cab under the pass front door is a good one to fail and block behind exhaust down pipe , small wire short on frame to rear lights also after market or self installed power wires shorting and or to close to high voltage factory wires or to close to ecm or idm wires and last but not least a failing bcm 02's are good for this that box operates the security and door locks and a couple other items
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD thanks for the great information I will be back on this truck tomorrow with these different suggestions thank you
I have a 95 powerstroke lights are flickering please help
Are you running the upgraded wire (I think you said 4 gage) from the Alternator to the battery direct?????
My system is very different i'm running 4 batteries But we always install 4 ga from the alternator and #1 welding cable to the starter and other battery
I have purchased Odyssey Batteries, HD battery cables, Denso gear reduction starter, and Im getting a Mechman HD alternator. Do you recommend that the starter be wired direct to the battery or is using the Ford alternator plug sufficient? I will obviously take your advice and put on a better connector plug. In speaking with Mechman they claim it is not necessary to wire direct to Battery. I was wondering your thoughts...
@@jasoncohn2669 Wire starter direct to battery This stops high amperage cross to sensor wires
That is good to know. Would you suggest swapping the batteries from left to right periodically? I will look at an odyssey batteries on next purchase. I have always bought 2 batteries at a time.
Yes, absolutely
I do that. People think I'm nuts. But hey it works.
The video is interesting, but please take a circuits/electricity class. Most of the claims about 'voltage', 'resistance', etc. were incorrect as much as most - not all - of the practical advice was reasonable. And no, I won't 'just relax', especially because there are some fundamental misunderstandings: as soon as the engine is running and the alternator is outputting current, any voltage issues which cause driveability issues are NOT related to the batteries because the regulator of the alternator is what is keeping a constant voltage in the system.
The only exception to that is when the batteries are so far discharged that the alternator cannot keep the voltage up because it runs into its current limit.
Also, as batteries age, their capacity decreases, therefore their capacity to receive power decreases - thus with old batteries you will, at most, have a brief period in which the alternator struggles to stuff power into batteries, then they will have taken all that they can and at that point the alternator is in steady state and taking care of the power requirements of the vehicle as it should.
It is however true that SWAPPING the two batteries from time to time will help preserve them, because the way the wiring is (both stock and the way you rebuilt it) causes the driverside battery to be used a lot less than the passenger side.
OTOH, everything after minute 15:00 goes so far into inaccurate that it should really come with a large 'caution' sign. Among other things, the Odyssey batteries that are 11 years old have NOTHING to do with those that you can buy today - so yes, the old ones were better. But even disregarding that, the whole recycled vs. new argument is just incorrect.
I put in 2 AGM units within 3 days of each other. Hoping "all is good" with this move. (2001 7.3 liter Dually with 251k miles on her. New OEM injectors greatly reduced engine noise and cold starting! Also 5w40 Rotella.
Do you plug it in ?
@@LemonySnicket-EUC I'm on the California/Oregon border. However, I do plug it in when it goes down below 40 just to baby her.
One of your tutorials you suggested a small scan tool. When you have time could you help me with that. Thanks!!
working on a stand alone video on that
Thank you for the video
Thanks for watching!
What about Napa gold batteries? Thanks for the video.
I have a1999 ford f350 7.3 the alternator at night is sucking my batteries dry. When the positive wire is on ,it shows a 330milie amp draw. When un hooked it shows a 19 million amp draw. I hope you can help me fix this, thanks
did we do this yet ruclips.net/video/3EW5RubMsXE/видео.html
Iv got a 1999 f350, I put a new alternator, new battery’s, and a new alternator plug, and the battery light comes on and off when I turn it off and have it running, what can it be?
Have you used a multimeter and checked the bolt on the back of the Alternator for charging voltage? Is that voltage making it to the batteries? Check this after GPR has shut off. Both voltages should be above 13V to 14.4v. Have you checked the fuses with a test light? If you unplug the connection at the alternator does the light go OUT
It is not uncommon to get a bad alternator right out of the box The charging lead at the battery on the passenger side needs to have connections checked
also you may want to get forscan pro with amzn.to/3zaBBzh
Ignition off:
12.68v both batteries, connected
13.0v Driver's battery, disconnected
12.83v Passenger battery, disconnected
0.26v Orange (A/sense) alternator harness wire (+ on wire, - on battery - terminal)
0.11v Green (B/control) alternator harness wire (+ on wire, - on battery - terminal)
Ignition on, engine running:
14.41v both batteries connected
Ignition on, engine not running:
0.26v Orange (A/sense) alternator harness wire (+ on wire, - on battery - terminal)
12.41v Green (B/control) alternator harness wire (+ on wire, - on battery - terminal)
Really great info no one has ever covered this
Good morning brother I appreciate all your advice I’m in the process of finding the odyssey batteries but boy I’m I running into some major issues I’m not sure if it because of current issues maybe you can point me in the right direction I’m trying to get it going before to long because of work but if you have an idea on where to go I’m in Albuquerque NM BUT I THINK AT odyssey themselves are looking at two weeks delivery
We ordered straight from Odyssey on our Trans Am Denali project fulfillment is at least 2 weeks but it was a very specific dual post battery I do know you can search retailers on there web site there are local box stores that have them in stock in my State Fleet Farm has them and at pre Covid pre inflation prices You might find the same Other wise order and wait we are in strange times Hey
What brand is that connector for the batteries?
There just generic the ebay link is in the description
I’ve changed the battery’s on my 2000 6 times in 6 months man
I wouldn’t own a diesel if I thought a $350x2 battery was too much. Thanks
quik note, when trying to focus in on a small item put it in your hand and the camera will focus properly!
Its the camera canon g7x mark 3 Canon bought this back after I sent them a intent to sue. Have bought studio cameras now
Well dang it, I checked the Odyssey battery company and they only sell the Left side battery and not the right. That shoots the matched battery theory completely.
the Batteries sit in the truck reverse each other so yes the same listed battery works for both side You where talking to an official idiot who ever told you that
@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD It may be different on my 96 conversion van. I have always used two different batteries cause the big one on the drivers side would never fit in the passenger side slot. In fact that smaller battery is a specialty battery that they call the "ambulance battery" and NAPA charges me an arm and a leg for it. I have never been able to find a generic substitute for that one.
I could use some help I have a 7.3 I’ve put 3 Alternators in
Had new batteries
New belt
New alternator pig tail new alternator will not charge
Old one does but only if you rev truck up to 2500 to 3k it will charge for hrs this way u till you shut truck off then you gotta rev it again . If you don’t rev it up the batteries will drain completely dead to the point the headlight are very very dim dash lights dim
So truck not running checking at alternator I have 12.45
Truck running before i rev it to 25/3k it is at 11.70
After I do the little rev trick it’s at 13.71 it will stay at 13.71 for hours unless the truck is shut off and restarted then I have to rev it again to get it back up to 13.71
I’m ready to pull my f’n hair out
The only thing I see is when the key is turned on the battery light does not light up . Doesn’t light up ever tbh
I don't think your batteries are bad. The glow plugs will draw a lot of juice from the batteries that may take a while to charge back up at idle. Revving the engine will certainly speed up how quickly the batteries are charged backup. Though, this may not be the problem, it is something to keep in mind. Leaving the multi-meter leads connected to the battery, the voltage on the passenger side should be 13.5 to 14.5 with the engine running. That says the alternator is working as it should.
Clint, you are saying "Voltage", it is the CURRENT draw that is burning up the wires and connectors, not the Voltage. Power equals amps Squared times Volts. BIG solid connectors like you are showing keeps the Voltage Drop to a Minimum, which is critical as you suggest. The Fatter the Cable, the less Voltage drop at High current demands. I have a 320 Amp MechMan alternator, my Cables are Humongous and BIG connectors.
Make a video yourself that's entertaining and informative then Mr. CURRENT
Where do you get those battery cable connections. I have been looking for years for something like that always having battery post problem. Please email me where to purchase
its in the description for the link
Battery voltage... 13.1 is not "resting battery voltage"... for a lead acid battery... Look up "fuzz charge"... As a 20 plus year owner of a 7.3 fleet... the positive wires can become a problem, but the "norm" is the ground is not heavy enough... (Ground, Battery to body, and battery to motor) and all battery terminal ends are weak, junk...!
3rd comment lol, do a video on cold starting a 7.3 properly, and diagnosing a cold no start
My 99 7.3 was very hard to start under 35°F. I replaced the glow plug relay on the old lady a few weeks ago and it now starts better than it did for years. Still, I think I need to replace some glow plugs. If that doesn't do it, I will face the daunting task of replacing the low pressure oil pump. Also, I'm going to replace/upgrade the battery cables, especially the starter cable. Older cables are very likely to be somewhat degraded and producing excessive voltage resistance.
Great job!! The right information everytime. Thank you
Love watching your 7.3 videos but wish I could pick your brain about them lol
I've had no problems with Caterpillar batteries in my trucks