Mine arrived today, I have an iMAC and the Slicer software will not update, the ribbons also seem to short because when the bed moved back if pulls the ribbons out.
I agree that these have a bit of a learning curve. My kobra 2 has taken quite a bit of work to get tuned in and to get used to as well but i finally have it going nicely. I had to replace the heatbreak with a bi-metal one from a CR6 to be able to use standard volcano nozzles and I've fought with an over extrusion issue since day one. Esteps have been calibrated and are dead on but i still have to set flow to 95%. 92% for first layer. Even then it shall over extrudes at anything under 100mms but at 150mms it's fantastic. Due to this i can't use it for tpu but it loves petg now. The main complaint I have is that anycubic seems to have just given up on firmware updates for it and it's still closed source so I'm left with three only option to replace the board and lcd if i want to change firmware settings.
Thanks for the tips, the over extrusion is a pain in the arse, bought it to make parts to sell bit have not been able to print anything not flawed in some way. Trying to sell the printer now and buy a Bamboo
Guess I could try to replace the heartbreak and upgrade nozzle before giving up, so many 3D printers posted for sale and they are not selling, so one of those stuck with it things.
@@Level_Up_Nation Exact same boat I'm in. I've just turned it into a printer I use just for functional parts I want quickly but nothing that needs to look good. Playing with the flow settings in Cura was the biggest improvement I found. Took a while to dial them in but once I did it made a massive difference. I upgraded the heatbreak just so I could use standard volcano nozzles but I did find that you could (if you wanted to do it for free0 file/grind down the bottom of the stock heatbreak (just make sure it is perfectly flat and level). It'll raise your nozzle about 1mm so you'll have to redo your Z offset. If you do go with the CR6 heatbreak bear in mind it's a tad longer so you might have to lower your inductive probe a bit to compensate. I just set mine so that the nozzle was just touching the bed and then I put a 2mm spacer under the probe, dropped it to sit on the spacer and then tightened it up. Ran a leveling and it's been really good ever since. From a lot of the problems I've heard people having I don't think the probes are really set right from the factory and need to be adjusted.
Mine arrived today, I have an iMAC and the Slicer software will not update, the ribbons also seem to short because when the bed moved back if pulls the ribbons out.
I agree that these have a bit of a learning curve. My kobra 2 has taken quite a bit of work to get tuned in and to get used to as well but i finally have it going nicely. I had to replace the heatbreak with a bi-metal one from a CR6 to be able to use standard volcano nozzles and I've fought with an over extrusion issue since day one. Esteps have been calibrated and are dead on but i still have to set flow to 95%. 92% for first layer. Even then it shall over extrudes at anything under 100mms but at 150mms it's fantastic. Due to this i can't use it for tpu but it loves petg now. The main complaint I have is that anycubic seems to have just given up on firmware updates for it and it's still closed source so I'm left with three only option to replace the board and lcd if i want to change firmware settings.
Thanks for the tips, the over extrusion is a pain in the arse, bought it to make parts to sell bit have not been able to print anything not flawed in some way. Trying to sell the printer now and buy a Bamboo
Guess I could try to replace the heartbreak and upgrade nozzle before giving up, so many 3D printers posted for sale and they are not selling, so one of those stuck with it things.
@@Level_Up_Nation Exact same boat I'm in. I've just turned it into a printer I use just for functional parts I want quickly but nothing that needs to look good. Playing with the flow settings in Cura was the biggest improvement I found. Took a while to dial them in but once I did it made a massive difference. I upgraded the heatbreak just so I could use standard volcano nozzles but I did find that you could (if you wanted to do it for free0 file/grind down the bottom of the stock heatbreak (just make sure it is perfectly flat and level). It'll raise your nozzle about 1mm so you'll have to redo your Z offset. If you do go with the CR6 heatbreak bear in mind it's a tad longer so you might have to lower your inductive probe a bit to compensate. I just set mine so that the nozzle was just touching the bed and then I put a 2mm spacer under the probe, dropped it to sit on the spacer and then tightened it up. Ran a leveling and it's been really good ever since. From a lot of the problems I've heard people having I don't think the probes are really set right from the factory and need to be adjusted.