When I did the brakes on my m37 it turned into a project as I did everything. I changed the wheel cylinders brake hoses grease seals bearings steel tubing and master cylinder. I even took apart the steering knuckle and changed all seals cleaned alxle and changed steering bushings sand blaster and painted brake backing plate.it took about two weeks to do both sides.took awhile to find a place to cut the drums.it looked great when finished nice and clean.will start the rear soon to make it look nice.do it once do it right or we do it RIGHT because we do it twice.
Great video. Brakes look simple and reliable. I just bought a restored M-37 in Florida and plan to pick it up and drive it to Salt Spring Island B.C. Canada. Planning to drive on state highways only. Should be fun. Thanks for the informational video.
Thanks for watching Nat! I'm not sure if you saw my video of bringing mine home , but I also picked up mine in Florida, mine was a bit too rough to drive home though! Good luck with yours in the future, I hope you have tons of fun with it!
Its good you wore a mask. Its best practice to wash the brakes down with water before disassembly and never use air to blow them off. Old vehicles and some new after market parts use asbestos.
Definitely a good tip! I used to work on big rigs and we would chisel of the old lining, grind the shoes and then bolt new lining on. A lot of dust and airborne debris involved. ALWAYS used a cartridge mask.
breaks are too important to try to reuse that 60 yr old stuff relace every thing shoes -wheel cylinders tubing you rebuild master cyl using new seal s replace steel (rusty tubing its tiny want tak much to block it. try vpw in iowa for parts if needed
@@michigandon that is so true you can get compleat break system from vintage power wagon in iowa most still in orig boxes a little high but all new now .even break lines ---also new seals in master cylinder
@@michigandon the only prob with is i wanted to stay orig on rebuild once you start changing items it can cease to be an m37?????? i was in korea war when these came out---52 ---55 187 airborne mike co
@Frank Davidson How does that make it cease to be an M37? Unless you're building a "Parade Queen" that gets driven once twice a year, I'd much rather have safe, dependable brakes with replacement components that can be purchased at the AutoZone two miles up the road.
When I did the brakes on my m37 it turned into a project as I did everything. I changed the wheel cylinders brake hoses grease seals bearings steel tubing and master cylinder. I even took apart the steering knuckle and changed all seals cleaned alxle and changed steering bushings sand blaster and painted brake backing plate.it took about two weeks to do both sides.took awhile to find a place to cut the drums.it looked great when finished nice and clean.will start the rear soon to make it look nice.do it once do it right or we do it RIGHT because we do it twice.
Great video. Brakes look simple and reliable. I just bought a restored M-37 in Florida and plan to pick it up and drive it to Salt Spring Island B.C. Canada. Planning to drive on state highways only. Should be fun. Thanks for the informational video.
Thanks for watching Nat! I'm not sure if you saw my video of bringing mine home , but I also picked up mine in Florida, mine was a bit too rough to drive home though! Good luck with yours in the future, I hope you have tons of fun with it!
@@MetalMojo Thanks . Hope you have a good time with yours as well.
they will only go about 55 down hill they were not made for highway use ----4 wheel drive ---high and low range --all made for woods and off road work
there are right and left hand cylinders because the pistons are different diameters for the leading and trailing shoes
Thanks James! ...I'm still learning about the old girl, I appreciate the comment!
the rear cylinders are diff from front
Not on my M37, what do you think the difference is ?
Yes, the large (lower pressure) cup always goes to the rear.
That shut off on the master cyl is for fording. Im going to use it for bleeding my brakes.
the two front are alike the two in rear are diff from front
Its good you wore a mask. Its best practice to wash the brakes down with water before disassembly and never use air to blow them off. Old vehicles and some new after market parts use asbestos.
Definitely a good tip! I used to work on big rigs and we would chisel of the old lining, grind the shoes and then bolt new lining on. A lot of dust and airborne debris involved. ALWAYS used a cartridge mask.
i think your doing a great job by learning as you go
breaks are too important to try to reuse that 60 yr old stuff relace every thing shoes -wheel cylinders tubing you rebuild master cyl using new seal s replace steel (rusty tubing its tiny want tak much to block it. try vpw in iowa for parts if needed
Or better yet, go with an Ugly Truckling disc conversion.
Being able to go is optional. Being able to stop is mandatory.
@@michigandon that is so true you can get compleat break system from vintage power wagon in iowa most still in orig boxes a little high but all new now .even break lines ---also new seals in master cylinder
@@michigandon the only prob with is i wanted to stay orig on rebuild once you start changing items it can cease to be an m37?????? i was in korea war when these came out---52 ---55 187 airborne mike co
@Frank Davidson How does that make it cease to be an M37? Unless you're building a "Parade Queen" that gets driven once twice a year, I'd much rather have safe, dependable brakes with replacement components that can be purchased at the AutoZone two miles up the road.