Thank you for that, I enjoy working on my own vehicles, whether it is rebuilding motors, trans, or brakes or anything else mechanical, really neat to see, have worked on vehicles from the 60's up till 2003 models, lots to learn, I too used to hone W/C, but for most new I just buy them now, they come so cheap, even used to hone calipers, full floating axles on my ford trucks and my GMC were always fun, just like our transit buses up here. I remember the fun of replacing wheel cylinders, master cylinders and on my newer GMC truck the hydroboost more work than the old vacuum boosters, have had brake lines rust through before and fail while driving, had master cylinders go out too, always fun. Oh and up here I use an actual spray called brake clean works good, safer than gasoline inside where I have to work. I bought one of those hand vacuum pumps they say allow you to hook it with its container to bleeder screw and then you can bleed brakes with one person, but sure liked when I had access to a pressure bleeder. Anyways, thanks for sharing. Bill Ps it was drilled into us to use jack stands, it is safer, but imagine you did not feel you would be under the vehicle, still good insurance.
Just loving your channel. Old guns and old trucks. Living the dream. Things are far too complicated nowadays. Thanks for the reminder to keep it simple. Maybe I'll have my flat fender someday and an old levergun.
Did the same job a little while back on the '66 Caddy. The cylinder bores were the same for both ends, but they made the friction material strip on the trailing shoe longer to get the same effect. The annoyance on the Caddy is that they put the access hole for the adjuster wheel on the outside face of the drum rather than through the backing plate. It is a lot easier to feel the shoe drag when spinning with the tire on.
One of the first things you should do is check out Vintage Power Wagons, and get their catalog. They a great source for information, and parts, including NOS items that can be hard to locate. The M37 is a pretty simple machine to work on, with the exception of the 24 volt, waterproof ignition. Just changing points can be interesting, but someplace in my videos is one that walks you through it. Not a fast vehicle, but incredibly tough, nothing else can handle the hard jobs these can just take in stride..
I would like to make mine a complete 24v system again. It was previously a fire department brush truck. It has a G.M. altenater on it. And the gauges don’t work.
Great video! Thanks for making it and uploading it. I just bought a 1963 M37B1 and assuming that not much changed between your year and mine, this should help me fix the same problem but on the opposite side.
I have a brake bleeder. A pressurize cylinder that holds about a gallon of fluid. You replace the cap with a fitting . Then attach the hose and open the valve . Usually start on the furthest wheel usually right rear. and then by the time you get to the front you have flushed all of the air and old dirty fluid. Cant use it on any built after about 1990 because of all the proportioning valves and and ABS systems. But it works on wagons and older vehicles
the only one I have used was a small vacuum pump that attached to the bleed screw. It worked well as long as you kept a close watch on the level in the master cylinder. The big advantage was you do get the air bubbles churned in the fluid like you do with the pump and hold method.
I greatly enjoy you're videos, direct and to the point for the most part and informative to boot! I did the rear brakes on my mid 80's Chev pick up last fall before the weather got bad, this took me back to that time. I stabbed and pinched myself a few times getting the springs back in place but all in all it was not too bad and nice to get done. What impact drill are you using is that a Dewalt?
yes, the impact is Dewalt, an extremely handy tool. I have had it for years and use it often for changing blades on the road grader because it is more powerful than the air one I have in the shop.
When I was younger I used to (try) help my dad work on his Kenworth. I believe one side all the lug bolts were left handed threads. I remember my dad telling me that the Kenworth made it that way so when you are heavy the lug nuts on that side do not loosen. Something about the direction of rotation of the wheel. I am unaware if it actually worked or if Kenworth was trying to fix a problem they didn't have.
Some companies, in particular Chrysler used that system, the theory was that the nuts would work tighter as you drove.. The idea sort of passed out of favor, but caused many people to snap off lug bolts when they attempted to change a tire.
18winsagin I'm not sure just who made the axles, but they are very heavy duty, I can't imagine breaking one. If you did break one they are easy to find, they made lots of spare parts for these so there are warehouses full of new old stock surplus parts. Parts for these aren't cheap, but they are built to last, and they are so simply built there are not many parts in the first place. I think you could probably put together a new machine completely out of surplus parts available.
logcabinlooms I figure it would be near impossible to snap an axle in that machine with the Gw of the vehicle versus the stout undercarriage, you're right it appears to be built to last forever ! What does it weigh empty, just curious, I may research some on them and maybe someday have one for a project truck, have never seen one here in my neck of the woods, thanks for your information.
I can see you never had a car or truck come off the jack while working on it before. If you had, a support would have been under there too. Reason I say this, been there, done it.
probably before it gets cold, but I want to pull all the axles to repack the wheel bearings, and I have to get new seals and gaskets for those before I start.
Thank you for that, I enjoy working on my own vehicles, whether it is rebuilding motors, trans, or brakes or anything else mechanical, really neat to see, have worked on vehicles from the 60's up till 2003 models, lots to learn, I too used to hone W/C, but for most new I just buy them now, they come so cheap, even used to hone calipers, full floating axles on my ford trucks and my GMC were always fun, just like our transit buses up here.
I remember the fun of replacing wheel cylinders, master cylinders and on my newer GMC truck the hydroboost more work than the old vacuum boosters, have had brake lines rust through before and fail while driving, had master cylinders go out too, always fun.
Oh and up here I use an actual spray called brake clean works good, safer than gasoline inside where I have to work.
I bought one of those hand vacuum pumps they say allow you to hook it with its container to bleeder screw and then you can bleed brakes with one person, but sure liked when I had access to a pressure bleeder.
Anyways, thanks for sharing.
Bill
Ps it was drilled into us to use jack stands, it is safer, but imagine you did not feel you would be under the vehicle, still good insurance.
I wish all vehicles were still as easy and simple to work on today . great video LCL thanks so much .
i think those drum retaining screws are to keep the drum on while its going down the assembly line . great vid , thanks
Just loving your channel. Old guns and old trucks. Living the dream. Things are far too complicated nowadays. Thanks for the reminder to keep it simple. Maybe I'll have my flat fender someday and an old levergun.
Did the same job a little while back on the '66 Caddy. The cylinder bores were the same for both ends, but they made the friction material strip on the trailing shoe longer to get the same effect. The annoyance on the Caddy is that they put the access hole for the adjuster wheel on the outside face of the drum rather than through the backing plate. It is a lot easier to feel the shoe drag when spinning with the tire on.
Thank you for this video !!! I just bought a 1953 M37 !!!
One of the first things you should do is check out Vintage Power Wagons, and get their catalog. They a great source for information, and parts, including NOS items that can be hard to locate. The M37 is a pretty simple machine to work on, with the exception of the 24 volt, waterproof ignition. Just changing points can be interesting, but someplace in my videos is one that walks you through it. Not a fast vehicle, but incredibly tough, nothing else can handle the hard jobs these can just take in stride..
I would like to make mine a complete 24v system again. It was previously a fire department brush truck. It has a G.M. altenater on it. And the gauges don’t work.
love this guy. thanks for the great video. I'll be doing this on my '52 M37 soon.
Thanks man. I have to do mine soon. Trucks been sitting for 20 years. One wheel is locked up. Should be fun.
I just came across your channel and I really enjoy them so far and like the way you talk about things and your prospective on things
You are the Jack of all trades my friend! Thanks for sharing...
Great videos. Make some more on other repairs that you have done I have a 1954 as well. Learning a lot. Thanks.
i have a 53 -- replaced everything that needed to be replaced if you are having a prob. list we can help
Great video! Thanks for making it and uploading it. I just bought a 1963 M37B1 and assuming that not much changed between your year and mine, this should help me fix the same problem but on the opposite side.
I have a brake bleeder. A pressurize cylinder that holds about a gallon of fluid. You replace the cap with a fitting . Then attach the hose and open the valve . Usually start on the furthest wheel usually right rear. and then by the time you get to the front you have flushed all of the air and old dirty fluid. Cant use it on any built after about 1990 because of all the proportioning valves and and ABS systems. But it works on wagons and older vehicles
the only one I have used was a small vacuum pump that attached to the bleed screw. It worked well as long as you kept a close watch on the level in the master cylinder. The big advantage was you do get the air bubbles churned in the fluid like you do with the pump and hold method.
the vacuum style still works for the newer brake systems and for hydraulic clutch systems
these brake comp. are 70 yrs old i jus orderd 4 new ones very important part of truck
if you try to take them out they will break run clock wise to remove the drums
Finally got mine in the garage. Going to pull wheel tonight. Keep ya posted on how I do.
Victor L. Fazio III Hopefully your problem is just brake related, if it's a drive train problem it could get a bit more complicated.
Wheel off, DRUM is moving but need some some longer bolts. Might have a mouse nest in there to. Lol
I am Cambodia people. I love the war us car
I greatly enjoy you're videos, direct and to the point for the most part and informative to boot! I did the rear brakes on my mid 80's Chev pick up last fall before the weather got bad, this took me back to that time. I stabbed and pinched myself a few times getting the springs back in place but all in all it was not too bad and nice to get done. What impact drill are you using is that a Dewalt?
yes, the impact is Dewalt, an extremely handy tool. I have had it for years and use it often for changing blades on the road grader because it is more powerful than the air one I have in the shop.
Excellent work. Put me on the list to buy the chick magnet if you ever sell it!
When I was younger I used to (try) help my dad work on his Kenworth. I believe one side all the lug bolts were left handed threads. I remember my dad telling me that the Kenworth made it that way so when you are heavy the lug nuts on that side do not loosen. Something about the direction of rotation of the wheel. I am unaware if it actually worked or if Kenworth was trying to fix a problem they didn't have.
Some companies, in particular Chrysler used that system, the theory was that the nuts would work tighter as you drove.. The idea sort of passed out of favor, but caused many people to snap off lug bolts when they attempted to change a tire.
logcabinlooms had a willys rearend *in a kaiser* that way
run those small bolts in not out to remove the drum
you run those small bolts in to remove the drum dont to take out you can get these brake cylinders and shoe from vintage power wagon if you need to
Actually there are three other threaded holes in the drum to insert 3/8" coarse thread bolts to act as pullers to get the drum off.
i used a crow bar and hammer itll pop off you have to pry it off
sometimes a small 'L' on the end of the stud. on some crysler cars too..
A pretty interesting time capsule of sorts. Built before many of your viewers were born.
what manufacturer put the drive train in those, just curious if axle etc would be easy to get if you happen to break one.
18winsagin I'm not sure just who made the axles, but they are very heavy duty, I can't imagine breaking one. If you did break one they are easy to find, they made lots of spare parts for these so there are warehouses full of new old stock surplus parts. Parts for these aren't cheap, but they are built to last, and they are so simply built there are not many parts in the first place. I think you could probably put together a new machine completely out of surplus parts available.
logcabinlooms I figure it would be near impossible to snap an axle in that machine with the Gw of the vehicle versus the stout undercarriage, you're right it appears to be built to last forever ! What does it weigh empty, just curious, I may research some on them and maybe someday have one for a project truck, have never seen one here in my neck of the woods, thanks for your information.
When you drill screws out are you reversing the driver or drilling in regular forward direction?
+sampsonrover reverse, with the reverse twist bits.
I can see you never had a car or truck come off the jack while working on it before. If you had, a support would have been under there too. Reason I say this, been there, done it.
I wonder if those shoes have asbestos in them.
Is the toad still around? Haha
you remind me of someone
are you going to replace all 4?
probably before it gets cold, but I want to pull all the axles to repack the wheel bearings, and I have to get new seals and gaskets for those before I start.