Hello chaps what you have there is a dose of vapor lock these used to do it with monotonous regularly try re routing the fuel line from the pump to the carb,after that look at the ignition system might well be the condenser failing when warmed up . Deliveroo ?..
Sions a bit quiet at the beginning chaps, if the coils over heated in the past or the ignition is tired and there's a dirty jet it can cause a hot running issue ive just solved something similar on the Dyane
Had one of these….1.4 Renault engine…..crash bars in the doors….gearbox on back axle…. Aluminium prop shaft…., which failed on my car and left me stranded at side of the road😵💫😂has yours a dodgy fuel pump?? Mine was a 340
The 345 is the same age as my partner and I! 80s carb fed Renault engines often used to experience vapour lock problems. Usually the F series rather than the Cleon but rerouting the fuel line might be a start. It strikes me that it is too lean when hot? We experienced similar issues with our fuel injected Renault 21, but in our case it related to a NTC sensor being fitted instead of a PTC which made the engine management computer think the engine was getting colder when it was getting hotter! Good luck, we went through all sorts of checks first and feel your pain!
Looks like a vapour lock issue - your fuel line from the filter goes over the top of the engine, so it's going to get warm. Try routing the fuel line away from the major sources of heat in the engine bay if possible?
Strip and clean the carb, take a spark plug or spark tester with you on the road test and if it does it again then check for a spark, if no spark then it could be the coil or ignition module if no points.
This might come out of left field, but… Does this car have a Renault engine? Does it also have electronic ignition? There is a sensor wire that goes down for timing or something. If that is faulty, it can cause a vehicle to stall after a while when running, and not start again for about five minutes or so. Just an idea. 🤷♂️
I had a similar problem with my 1984 Volvo 340DL when I was driving it home from the place of purchase. Everything was fine until I hit heavy traffic on the M6 motorway. It suddenly cut out. I got it towed to a safe place off the motorway. Half an hour later, it started up fine and all the time I was on the move, no problem. One thing with that engine is the siamese inlet/exhaust manifold. The hot exhaust manifold causes the inlet manifold to get too hot and this causes the incoming fuel mixture to vapourize and results in the engine cutting out. A solution is to stove enamel the inlet manifold to cure the overheating problem. The Renault 5 has the same problem. Wheeler Dealers had a Renault 5 turbo with the same problem. They cured it by stove enamelling the inlet manifoild.
My cutting out theory was going to be rust in the tank, blocking the pickup or rust being dragged through to the carb but having seen the cleanliness of the fuel in the filter - I'm doubting that! If the filter was that full when it cut out, I'd rule out a supply/pump issue. The only thing I can think of is a sticky needle valve in the carb or float issue preventing the needle valve from opening. Worth checking for spark at the plugs next time it cuts out I guess too!
Things to check with this - there is a gasket (cork I think) that sits between the carb and inlet manifold that seems to either go porous and let air in, or flattens out and lets heat soak up into the carb (I can never remember which one it is!); they were also hellish guilty for vapourising the fuel (I think there was a mod that had a little fan that cooled the carb) that also involved re-routing the fuel hose. This is, of course, all assuming that it is the B14 engine. Also, the Renix ignition units could fail (if it uses one) - they are essentially a glorified coil.
Funnily enough as I think I’ve mentioned before, apart from passing my driving test in a 345 back in 1984 my friend had a 433 in the later 1980s which would randomly cut out and you would have to wait until it decided to go again. He ended up selling it 😂
I would have said coil as well. If the LT connection breaks when it gets hot then it will have to cool before it makes connection again. And unlike the HT connection the LT hasnt the juice to jump. My initial thoughts were fuel evaporation, but you basically ruled that out.
Sadly not answers... just wanted to say I liked the story of this car and in many cases it is how a cars manage to survive it's period where the car value is well past 10 years old but somehow the owner keeps it and takes care of it... Almost like love story... End of rant...
@@markf4720 it seems that phones play it fine, some TVs are not great and a lot of laptops just can't. We have another new mic in the next video so hopefully that is better
Love the sound of that car cranking and not wanting to start. And Sion is so handsome too!
You'll be giving him a big head lol
I love this old Volvo - it's so charming - even if it doesn't really work at the moment!
Will be sorted soon
Hello chaps what you have there is a dose of vapor lock these used to do it with monotonous regularly try re routing the fuel line from the pump to the carb,after that look at the ignition system might well be the condenser failing when warmed up .
Deliveroo ?..
yep,longer fuel lines seemed to help back in the day
Sions a bit quiet at the beginning chaps, if the coils over heated in the past or the ignition is tired and there's a dirty jet it can cause a hot running issue ive just solved something similar on the Dyane
We are working on mics, that one was useless and in the next video we forget to bring the better replacement one we bought. We really are useless
@@alsodriven I'm not much better I'll be damned if I can get dad to remember to wear his
Had one of these….1.4 Renault engine…..crash bars in the doors….gearbox on back axle…. Aluminium prop shaft…., which failed on my car and left me stranded at side of the road😵💫😂has yours a dodgy fuel pump??
Mine was a 340
The 345 is the same age as my partner and I! 80s carb fed Renault engines often used to experience vapour lock problems. Usually the F series rather than the Cleon but rerouting the fuel line might be a start. It strikes me that it is too lean when hot? We experienced similar issues with our fuel injected Renault 21, but in our case it related to a NTC sensor being fitted instead of a PTC which made the engine management computer think the engine was getting colder when it was getting hotter! Good luck, we went through all sorts of checks first and feel your pain!
Siôn has 3 of these and none of the others do it so we think it's more of a faulty component
Looks like a vapour lock issue - your fuel line from the filter goes over the top of the engine, so it's going to get warm. Try routing the fuel line away from the major sources of heat in the engine bay if possible?
Strip and clean the carb, take a spark plug or spark tester with you on the road test and if it does it again then check for a spark, if no spark then it could be the coil or ignition module if no points.
Oh god Sion's poor face when the inevitable happened! 😢
Like a puppy that just had its food bowl taken off it!
@@Zadster he needed a hug!
This might come out of left field, but…
Does this car have a Renault engine? Does it also have electronic ignition?
There is a sensor wire that goes down for timing or something. If that is faulty, it can cause a vehicle to stall after a while when running, and not start again for about five minutes or so.
Just an idea. 🤷♂️
Going to replace the electronic ignition and see if that helps. It's a very cheap old after market system
@@alsodriven that sounds smart! 👍
Maybe check if any sensor wires attached to the EI module are also included.
I had a similar problem with my 1984 Volvo 340DL when I was driving it home from the place of purchase. Everything was fine until I hit heavy traffic on the M6 motorway. It suddenly cut out. I got it towed to a safe place off the motorway. Half an hour later, it started up fine and all the time I was on the move, no problem.
One thing with that engine is the siamese inlet/exhaust manifold. The hot exhaust manifold causes the inlet manifold to get too hot and this causes the incoming fuel mixture to vapourize and results in the engine cutting out.
A solution is to stove enamel the inlet manifold to cure the overheating problem. The Renault 5 has the same problem. Wheeler Dealers had a Renault 5 turbo with the same problem. They cured it by stove enamelling the inlet manifoild.
Yeah it's a common thing on the R5 Turbo
Thankfully ours was something else
My cutting out theory was going to be rust in the tank, blocking the pickup or rust being dragged through to the carb but having seen the cleanliness of the fuel in the filter - I'm doubting that! If the filter was that full when it cut out, I'd rule out a supply/pump issue. The only thing I can think of is a sticky needle valve in the carb or float issue preventing the needle valve from opening. Worth checking for spark at the plugs next time it cuts out I guess too!
you could see how stressed sion was after it broke down.
He was a poor wee mite that day
@@alsodriven haha
i briefly owned a 340, it was a bad time, no nostalgia here I'm sorry to say, but top marks for saving this one!
It's stonky but we love it
Sorry you had a failed mission. On a different note, with that registration, I'm sure the Volvo would be well received at an East Coast Retros meet!
Things to check with this - there is a gasket (cork I think) that sits between the carb and inlet manifold that seems to either go porous and let air in, or flattens out and lets heat soak up into the carb (I can never remember which one it is!); they were also hellish guilty for vapourising the fuel (I think there was a mod that had a little fan that cooled the carb) that also involved re-routing the fuel hose. This is, of course, all assuming that it is the B14 engine.
Also, the Renix ignition units could fail (if it uses one) - they are essentially a glorified coil.
Funnily enough as I think I’ve mentioned before, apart from passing my driving test in a 345 back in 1984 my friend had a 433 in the later 1980s which would randomly cut out and you would have to wait until it decided to go again. He ended up selling it 😂
I would have said coil as well.
If the LT connection breaks when it gets hot then it will have to cool before it makes connection again. And unlike the HT connection the LT hasnt the juice to jump.
My initial thoughts were fuel evaporation, but you basically ruled that out.
Sadly not answers... just wanted to say I liked the story of this car and in many cases it is how a cars manage to survive it's period where the car value is well past 10 years old but somehow the owner keeps it and takes care of it... Almost like love story...
End of rant...
We like that rant ❤️
Might be worth dropping the tank & having a peek inside or could be a dodgy fuel pump maybe worth taking it off & getting it tested
Sticking float bowel?
Hope you've got some food now!
its burning lean- that may or may not be a red herring who knows- but too much air in the mix somehow by the looks of it.
Into the Naughty Corner with it!
It's part fixed...
Bit more to do
It sounds like a carbarator vapour lock.
Your voice is hardly audible 😅
glad someone else has mentioned it as i thought it was me.
Trying out new mics
They are not great unfortunately
Eh? I could hear everything fine!
@@markf4720 it seems that phones play it fine, some TVs are not great and a lot of laptops just can't. We have another new mic in the next video so hopefully that is better
Was quiet but ok on my ps4, but I have headphones on.
Sound was very weak on part of the video.
We are working on that...
Coil? Cinquecento would never fail to proceed, touch wood 😂