I just used it on a XS1100 that sat for 36 years. Carbs looked tar. This stuff is amazing. I didn't have to scrub anything, saved me a lot of time an labor.
One “trick” I found by accident, I spilled the can of Chen dip on my floor and soaked it up with shop towels and threw the soaked rags in the can. A few das later I was doing a brake job and used the rags. Made my own brake cleaner wipes😄
Craziest thing ive ever done was use a can of this as an engine flush on an old toyota with over 200k miles and a real engine sludge problem. Going to be honest I dnt care about that car at all but the engine wont die so I figured this would either help or kill it.... I didnt expect anything good to be honest. but low and behold the damn engine runs better than it ever has now lmao. its all smooth and quiet now and has a little more power. Has anyone else here been crazy enough to try this as a flush? It did wonders for the toyota. I also used some in the spart plug holes to soak the piston heads. That didnt do anything good for me though. I let it soak for about 4 days and sucked out as much as I could and started the car. It took out an 02 sensor. Other than that no change that I can tell. For the flush I let it idle 15min then cool down and sit for a few hrs. then another 15 at idle. then I let it sit for a day and did another 15mins and then I drained it all out.
I have an old ford 2000 tractor 1970 I think, but have a cylinder that’s locked up from sitting, I tried diesel and pb blaster can’t seem to free it up, bought this to do the car a on my outboard, after reading your post I think imma pour this straight into the old ford when I’m done cleaning my carbs, fingers crossed shit seems to eat
Looking into using this 0996 formula with an ultrasonic cleaner, and ran across a question Berryman answered saying it is 100% safe to use. Seems like a good way to rescue older, hard to find carbs and parts.
Thank you for the great content. I have purchased this product and put my carb into it. After soak complete, do I need to wash out the carb with water? or just wipe out the residue of chemical? Thanks
@@MR_Garage Ok cuz i just got some and i recall it being a more clear yellowish and it turned brown after lots of dirty parts cleaning but maybe not. Im doing a CB550F 4 carb dip.
@@MicJaguar I just bought some and its definitely different. I know cause it didn't give a me a headache immediately and I though the shit looked old. Apparently is a new formula 🙄
Sir I hate to ask but I just bought a 95 cbr900rr and have had major problems in thar it won't idle. So I'm trying this though I heard that Chem dip will destroy the rubber gaskets. In the float bowls and all the other parts
the B-9 formula (1999) was containing (approx) 60% of Methylene Chlorine / 10% Cresols / 25% Xylenes / some sodium Bichromate and Ethyl Benzene. This is from a safety data sheet from the manufacturer. Each and every component of this (old) formula is VERY toxic though very effective as cleaner too. The danger is VERY real and looking at the way poeple use this type of product I understand why they had to modifiy the formula... but I doubt the "new formula" is a lot healthier....at best it's probably a little less toxic.... Wearing gloves and safety goggles is NOT ENOUGH, you should only work in a well ventilated area : a garage or basement is NOT ok. Outside on a cold windy day is the bare minimum / respiratory protection makes sense. All residue or contaminated part or rags must be treated as DANGEROUS as long as they are not fully rinced.
I have mixed feelings on this stuff. It is nowhere near as good as Hydroseal was, that is ancient history now. The stuff that was available after Hydroseal was discontinued was practically useless. This stuff does work on some deposits for sure. Recently I have used it and found that it stripped the coating off of 2 Rochester carburetors that were left to soak overnight. I have recently been having problems with choke linkages sticking overnight and am trying to figure out if this cleaner is causing the problems. All the carbs that have the linkage sticking have been cleaned using this stuff.
Try and inject a quality silicone oil or grease. I figured they were steel or aluminum casing being used as a bushing. When stripped of all oils / grease they will stick unlike brass which is self lubricating.
@@MR_Garage So i left the carbs overnight and now about to do the second set. I noticed a gray almost lead like residue on the carbs that i can wipe off but if its in the passage ways and what not. Could present a problem. So maybe use carb spray to wash it out. My carbs are already very clean so not sure where this lead looking residue came from.
Back in the 70s and the 80s, i would buy a five gallon metal bucket of carb, parts cleaner..that stuff stunk like mad..and one drop on your skin, would send me to a water faucet...it would eat paint...this new stuff is not worth a hoot
This stuff doesn't work. You don't have the green varnish in this carb. I have soaked a carb in this stuff for 7 days and it never touched it. The stuff used 15 years worked. This stuff is just brown water.
Quite emotionally dramatic - definitely not "brown water" 😅 Cleaned up all the brass to new as well as the carb. Water does not do that. Sounds like the brass was corroding badly on yours. Ethanol fuel attracts water from the air. Once the fuel evaps and moisture sets in, jets and other brass parts start to patina - corrode. Happens in really humid climates too. The green residue coats aluminum and other parts and is very hard to get off. You can use a salt vinegar solution (1tsp of salt to 1 cup of vinegar) and it usually removes all the green out of the carb. Using in an ultrasonic cleaner really does the trick fast. Rinse like a madman or salt crystals will form. Some skip the salt and vinigar will work just fine too. For carbs that have not turned green, chem-dip works wonders. I have rebuilt maybe 8-10ish carbs with this bucket. All cleaned up perfectly as did the one in the video.
I just used it on a XS1100 that sat for 36 years. Carbs looked tar. This stuff is amazing. I didn't have to scrub anything, saved me a lot of time an labor.
One “trick” I found by accident, I spilled the can of Chen dip on my floor and soaked it up with shop towels and threw the soaked rags in the can. A few das later I was doing a brake job and used the rags. Made my own brake cleaner wipes😄
😅😅😅😅
Craziest thing ive ever done was use a can of this as an engine flush on an old toyota with over 200k miles and a real engine sludge problem. Going to be honest I dnt care about that car at all but the engine wont die so I figured this would either help or kill it.... I didnt expect anything good to be honest. but low and behold the damn engine runs better than it ever has now lmao. its all smooth and quiet now and has a little more power. Has anyone else here been crazy enough to try this as a flush? It did wonders for the toyota. I also used some in the spart plug holes to soak the piston heads. That didnt do anything good for me though. I let it soak for about 4 days and sucked out as much as I could and started the car. It took out an 02 sensor. Other than that no change that I can tell.
For the flush I let it idle 15min then cool down and sit for a few hrs. then another 15 at idle. then I let it sit for a day and did another 15mins and then I drained it all out.
I have an old ford 2000 tractor 1970 I think, but have a cylinder that’s locked up from sitting, I tried diesel and pb blaster can’t seem to free it up, bought this to do the car a on my outboard, after reading your post I think imma pour this straight into the old ford when I’m done cleaning my carbs, fingers crossed shit seems to eat
Looking into using this 0996 formula with an ultrasonic cleaner, and ran across a question Berryman answered saying it is 100% safe to use. Seems like a good way to rescue older, hard to find carbs and parts.
Im shocked the EPA has not ruined it yet.
I set mine in a round protruding on my window ac. It vibrates like a sonic cleaner anyway.
Thank you for the great content. I have purchased this product and put my carb into it. After soak complete, do I need to wash out the carb with water? or just wipe out the residue of chemical? Thanks
I rinsed my out and let dry in the sun. Used compressed air to blow out the small passages.
Was the carb dip liquid clear'ish or was it dark in color when new? I could swear it used to be more clear and potent fumes.
This was brownish. The stuff I used ages ago was the same but had a metal parts basket.
@@MR_Garage Ok cuz i just got some and i recall it being a more clear yellowish and it turned brown after lots of dirty parts cleaning but maybe not. Im doing a CB550F 4 carb dip.
Left them in to long. About 4 hours is the max I would leave them in for after stirring and cleaning several times.
@@MicJaguar I just bought some and its definitely different. I know cause it didn't give a me a headache immediately and I though the shit looked old. Apparently is a new formula 🙄
Sir I hate to ask but I just bought a 95 cbr900rr and have had major problems in thar it won't idle. So I'm trying this though I heard that Chem dip will destroy the rubber gaskets. In the float bowls and all the other parts
What's the cost of customer send u carb for cleaning and a rebuild and customer sends rebuild kit
It’s all I use
I used to buy it in gallons but now i see it is 96 ounces? Is that right?
the B-9 formula (1999) was containing (approx) 60% of Methylene Chlorine / 10% Cresols / 25% Xylenes / some sodium Bichromate and Ethyl Benzene. This is from a safety data sheet from the manufacturer.
Each and every component of this (old) formula is VERY toxic though very effective as cleaner too. The danger is VERY real and looking at the way poeple use this type of product I understand why they had to modifiy the formula... but I doubt the "new formula" is a lot healthier....at best it's probably a little less toxic....
Wearing gloves and safety goggles is NOT ENOUGH, you should only work in a well ventilated area : a garage or basement is NOT ok.
Outside on a cold windy day is the bare minimum / respiratory protection makes sense.
All residue or contaminated part or rags must be treated as DANGEROUS as long as they are not fully rinced.
I have mixed feelings on this stuff. It is nowhere near as good as Hydroseal was, that is ancient history now. The stuff that was available after Hydroseal was discontinued was practically useless. This stuff does work on some deposits for sure. Recently I have used it and found that it stripped the coating off of 2 Rochester carburetors that were left to soak overnight.
I have recently been having problems with choke linkages sticking overnight and am trying to figure out if this cleaner is causing the problems. All the carbs that have the linkage sticking have been cleaned using this stuff.
Do the linkages have brass bushings ?
@@MR_Garage Great question, but they do not.
Try and inject a quality silicone oil or grease. I figured they were steel or aluminum casing being used as a bushing. When stripped of all oils / grease they will stick unlike brass which is self lubricating.
So it doesn't hurt the plastic????
Did nothing on mine.
@@MR_Garage So i left the carbs overnight and now about to do the second set. I noticed a gray almost lead like residue on the carbs that i can wipe off but if its in the passage ways and what not. Could present a problem. So maybe use carb spray to wash it out. My carbs are already very clean so not sure where this lead looking residue came from.
lol
No but the good stuff from the 70s would eat plastic..I loved the old stuff
Back in the 70s and the 80s, i would buy a five gallon metal bucket of carb, parts cleaner..that stuff stunk like mad..and one drop on your skin, would send me to a water faucet...it would eat paint...this new stuff is not worth a hoot
Hah RIGHT! It was a better formula for sure but also ate plastic. I can say, the new stuff still works. Just won't take chrome off a bumper :)
This stuff doesn't work. You don't have the green varnish in this carb. I have soaked a carb in this stuff for 7 days and it never touched it. The stuff used 15 years worked. This stuff is just brown water.
Quite emotionally dramatic - definitely not "brown water" 😅 Cleaned up all the brass to new as well as the carb. Water does not do that. Sounds like the brass was corroding badly on yours. Ethanol fuel attracts water from the air. Once the fuel evaps and moisture sets in, jets and other brass parts start to patina - corrode. Happens in really humid climates too. The green residue coats aluminum and other parts and is very hard to get off. You can use a salt vinegar solution (1tsp of salt to 1 cup of vinegar) and it usually removes all the green out of the carb. Using in an ultrasonic cleaner really does the trick fast. Rinse like a madman or salt crystals will form. Some skip the salt and vinigar will work just fine too. For carbs that have not turned green, chem-dip works wonders. I have rebuilt maybe 8-10ish carbs with this bucket. All cleaned up perfectly as did the one in the video.