Fixing this chuck was a major effort but I'm please with the end result. The chuck was made my Skinner but I think it's the original pre-1906 chuck for this lathe.
Like it, you should! That was a great job on what I would have assumed to be a scrap chuck. Thanks for another great video. Your workshop is certainly a place to see wonderful ‘resurrections’. Thank you. Les in UK 🇬🇧
Excellent repair, Mark. An unusual approach, never seen before. Congrats on yer success. An get yourself a precision ground bar, around 3/4 in. They pay for themselves in a month, only around 20 to 40 bucks. Simple tool with a lot of good uses.
Thanks! I have a linear rail bar about 3/4" but I misplaced it. I'll probably grind the inner jaws at some point but I'm please with the outcome as is.
Well done. As you said, a whole lot of work. Good that you saved this vintage chuck from the scrap bin. The inserts are stronger than the original cast ribs. Dave.
That had to feel a little weird running your cutter into your lathe chuck, I don’t know if my brain would let me do that! Lol That repair looks a touch busy, but in a good way, it matches that lathe perfectly. Thanks for sharing, you always come up with interesting videos that are fun watching.
Mark, I haven't seen a chuck that does not have the long end wobble with a piece that long. I just finished a project putting an E-Z view DRO on my old Clausing with magnets holding it in place. I revolt when I think of drilling and tapping into these old machines. As with most jobs I do it was 75% thought and 25% machining. Sequencing the work is imperative or else I machine myself into a corner. LOL Great job you have done in both thinking the job and machining the job.
Any thing that you can fix with tools you already have is always worth it. You've gained another tool to add to your arsenal with a little of your time and knowledge and always pushing yourself to at least try only adds to your abilities in the future. Good job Mark.
Hey, good fix. When setting up a rotary table, I found that it works well to set the rotary table dial on "0", clamp the table to the mill table and tram the rotary table parallel to the mill table. Then Tram the center hole in the table to the spindle, setting X,Y,"0" on the DRO. Then after all that, then mount your work piece and tram the work piece to the mill spindle at DRO "O"
Having found the centre of the chuck using your DRO, you could then have used the Pitch Circle Diameter function to place all of the holes on the same diameter.
That would have been a lot less work. I'm sure I could have found something. The thing is, a lot of the available chucks ar very deep meaning they the end of the jaws are farther away from the lathe bearings. This might have been okay but its not a good thing on lathes with smaller spindles.
Hello sir. I have been watching a lot of your videos. I have to be honest, this repair worries me. The body of the chuck jaws is a sensitive part to cut on because it really should be equally stable. Each chuck tooth exerts the load its holding in reverse direction against the chuck jaw body. They all equal out to about the same maximum load unless we do something to the geometry of the body that causes a weaker point. Im sure it's fine, but variables like an insert for one tooth that bolts in are going to change the balance at the very least. Chuck repairs and maintenance and modifications are only safe to a certain point. God bless, Id toss it in the pile and get a newer one better made than the last one I bought. Who's to say more edges around the chuck won't keep breaking off? Also, if it's brittle like that, I wouldn't trust it. Ive not seen a track fracture down that track line before either. Id like to add, masterful repair job you done here though. If it were ever done safe this is it.
Greetings! I'm not at all worried. First, the amount of mass and RPMs involved is not extreme and second, the chance of sudden failure is unlikely. There would be signs of failure long before the chuck flew apart. First point of failure would likely be the inner bolts holding the new guides or second, the key on the guide. Both bolts would have to fail before there was a major failure and the new guides are steel so they would likely bend long before failure. The only way the chuck could fail suddenly is if the body cracked in half. At this point the 4 steel bolts holding the body to the back plate would likely stop it from flying apart. I'm rating the danger the same as driving to the grocery store. I might die in a car wreck but it's a risk I'm going to take. No sarcasm or disrespect intended and I appreciate the comment but I'm not concerned.
That worked out nicely👌 The split in the socket end of the jaw screw is a common fault on 4 jaw independent chuck screws. The most common cause is that the screws are through hardened and not tempered on the outer socket end hence they are vulnerable to splitting due to the chuck key 'springing' the screw socket head. Pratt Burnerd 4 jaws are notorious for this problem. If you check out Alan Enot's channel (Enots Engineering) you will find a video where he made a new set of jaw screws which work just fine. Link to Enots Engineering video on new chuck jaw screws here: ruclips.net/video/F0mChMn7zXw/видео.htmlsi=T8uq9pC5j4gLkVpd
Like it, you should! That was a great job on what I would have assumed to be a scrap chuck. Thanks for another great video. Your workshop is certainly a place to see wonderful ‘resurrections’. Thank you. Les in UK 🇬🇧
Nice comment Les, thanks a bunch!
Wow that was quit the repair job Mark, good you were able to save that old classic chuck..
Well Done 👍👍
Thanks 👍 I agree, it looks goof on the Hardinge
Like I love to say where there is a will there is a way. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Yep.... I had some issues with Will but he came around.
I just enjoy watching you restore old machine shop equipment, thanks for sharing!
Great.... I think watching would have been much easier, Ha
Excellent repair, Mark. An unusual approach, never seen before. Congrats on yer success. An get yourself a precision ground bar, around 3/4 in. They pay for themselves in a month, only around 20 to 40 bucks. Simple tool with a lot of good uses.
Thanks! I have a linear rail bar about 3/4" but I misplaced it. I'll probably grind the inner jaws at some point but I'm please with the outcome as is.
All that really matters is if you are satisfied. You did an excellent job at repairing the now usable 4 jaw independent Metal Lathe Chuck.
You're right. Thanks
Congratulations on a very elegent solution to a difficult problem.
Thanks. Yeah, it was a big job.
Maybe it;s just my OCD, but I would have had to go back and re-groove those circular lines on the face... Great job Mark!
Hmmm... good idea on the grooves. 🙂
Now that is a gutsy undertaking I’m not sure I would have tried
I thought about it for several weeks and it was a bit intimidating but then I thought... nothing lost if I fail, the chuck was not usable.
Well done. As you said, a whole lot of work. Good that you saved this vintage chuck from the scrap bin. The inserts are stronger than the original cast ribs.
Dave.
I'd say you are right about the strength. Thanks
Another interesting and well-done repair on vintage machines!
Thanks Bob!
Hello Winky, wow your a real handy man, that was a brilliant idea that you adopted to repair that 4 jaw chuck, cheers from me. 😃👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
That had to feel a little weird running your cutter into your lathe chuck, I don’t know if my brain would let me do that! Lol
That repair looks a touch busy, but in a good way, it matches that lathe perfectly. Thanks for sharing, you always come up with interesting videos that are fun watching.
Thanks 👍 Yep when the end mill hit the chuck there was no turning back!
I like it, too! It's always fascinating to see how you do things.
Thanks
Mark, I haven't seen a chuck that does not have the long end wobble with a piece that long. I just finished a project putting an E-Z view DRO on my old Clausing with magnets holding it in place. I revolt when I think of drilling and tapping into these old machines. As with most jobs I do it was 75% thought and 25% machining. Sequencing the work is imperative or else I machine myself into a corner. LOL Great job you have done in both thinking the job and machining the job.
Yeah... I try not to drill into the machines but sometimes you have to. I agree, I've never had a chuck clamp perfectly straight.
There's that Necessity, Mother of Invention thing again, nice outcome. 👍
You got that right! Thanks
Wrll done, another innovative wothwhile rescue.
Thanks you, Might have easier to but a chuck but at least this one is probably original to the lathe.
Very nice fix! I would have brazed in and machined afterwards, but I think you way is better! Cheers, Matthew
Thanks, I was afraid I would get some of the braze under the key (slide) where I could not machine it off.
Very good job! You are one heck of a craftsman.
Thanks!
Any thing that you can fix with tools you already have is always worth it. You've gained another tool to add to your arsenal with a little of your time and knowledge and always pushing yourself to at least try only adds to your abilities in the future. Good job Mark.
I agree.... i hate tossing a good tool
Great fix,Mark.Thank you.
Thanks
I think I would’ve shot the check out. But you saved it. Great job I never would’ve thought about that. Look forward to your next video.
Slotting might have worked well but attaching the steel to the chuck was the part that worried me.
I like it too, I was a bit skeptical at the start but I'm impressed. Well done!
Thanks.... I was a little afraid I'd go to all that work and a jaw would not fit.
Nice Job, you did it again saving old metal with nice Ideas. Learning another thing^^
Thanks! Yep, saved another one :o)
Good morning Winky from Cave City. 😊
Hey hey, good to hear from you!
That is amazing! Great work!
Thanks
Trash to treasure. Nicely done Mark
Cheers
I like the way you put that, thanks
Hey, good fix. When setting up a rotary table, I found that it works well to set the rotary table dial on "0", clamp the table to the mill table and tram the rotary table parallel to the mill table. Then Tram the center hole in the table to the spindle, setting X,Y,"0" on the DRO. Then after all that, then mount your work piece and tram the work piece to the mill spindle at DRO "O"
I started to do that but the mounting slots and the bolt holes on the chuck were not in line to do that. Thanks
Turned out pretty good! I think I would have bored that center out with an endmill in the rotab to at least knock the corners off.
Yeah.... I used to worry about interrupted cuts but so far its never been a problem. This cut really smoothly. Thanks
Nice fix to a tricky problem.
Thanks
Wow, very innovative and nice work!
Thanks... yeah it was a LOT of work but in the end it worked well.
Very well done. Looks great. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching! I'm happy with the outcome.
Great job from oxford England 🏴
And from here in Leighton Buzzard 🇬🇧 🏴
Isn't the internet amazing? Thanks
Very good to hear from you, thanks
@@WinkysWorkshop it beats semaphore 😁
@@lesmaybury793 yup, the English fog gets in the way…. But Morse works🤣
Having found the centre of the chuck using your DRO, you could then have used the Pitch Circle Diameter function to place all of the holes on the same diameter.
You are right. To be honest, I'm a little weak on the DRO
Nice work!
Thanks!
Woo hoo number 1, good morning Sir.
Haha... Thanks, you're the greatest!
I bet that was kind of nerve-wracking, but great job!
Yeah... I was more worried about wasting a lot of time and effort. A new chuck would be easy and not super high priced for one that small.
Mate, this is a great effort. I am not sure that I would be game to do myself? Might grinding the jaws help?
I probably will grind the jaws... yes it was a lot of work.
Good Fix Winky.
Thanks
Good job !!
Thanks!
Did you haunt eBay looking for a replacement chuck? I have good luck there getting stuff for my two South Bends but maybe that is a different world.
That would have been a lot less work. I'm sure I could have found something. The thing is, a lot of the available chucks ar very deep meaning they the end of the jaws are farther away from the lathe bearings. This might have been okay but its not a good thing on lathes with smaller spindles.
Excellent!
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice job 👍
Thanks 👍
Hello sir. I have been watching a lot of your videos. I have to be honest, this repair worries me. The body of the chuck jaws is a sensitive part to cut on because it really should be equally stable.
Each chuck tooth exerts the load its holding in reverse direction against the chuck jaw body. They all equal out to about the same maximum load unless we do something to the geometry of the body that causes a weaker point. Im sure it's fine, but variables like an insert for one tooth that bolts in are going to change the balance at the very least. Chuck repairs and maintenance and modifications are only safe to a certain point. God bless, Id toss it in the pile and get a newer one better made than the last one I bought. Who's to say more edges around the chuck won't keep breaking off?
Also, if it's brittle like that, I wouldn't trust it. Ive not seen a track fracture down that track line before either.
Id like to add, masterful repair job you done here though. If it were ever done safe this is it.
Greetings! I'm not at all worried. First, the amount of mass and RPMs involved is not extreme and second, the chance of sudden failure is unlikely. There would be signs of failure long before the chuck flew apart. First point of failure would likely be the inner bolts holding the new guides or second, the key on the guide. Both bolts would have to fail before there was a major failure and the new guides are steel so they would likely bend long before failure. The only way the chuck could fail suddenly is if the body cracked in half. At this point the 4 steel bolts holding the body to the back plate would likely stop it from flying apart. I'm rating the danger the same as driving to the grocery store. I might die in a car wreck but it's a risk I'm going to take. No sarcasm or disrespect intended and I appreciate the comment but I'm not concerned.
That worked out nicely👌
The split in the socket end of the jaw screw is a common fault on 4 jaw independent chuck screws. The most common cause is that the screws are through hardened and not tempered on the outer socket end hence they are vulnerable to splitting due to the chuck key 'springing' the screw socket head.
Pratt Burnerd 4 jaws are notorious for this problem.
If you check out Alan Enot's channel (Enots Engineering) you will find a video where he made a new set of jaw screws which work just fine.
Link to Enots Engineering video on new chuck jaw screws here: ruclips.net/video/F0mChMn7zXw/видео.htmlsi=T8uq9pC5j4gLkVpd
Thanks, making new screws is fairly extreme. I'll watch the video but I thin I'll try to repair mine