I remember awhile back I seen a video where a replaced the cone of a speaker, he bought and you can still buy speaker rebuild kits, it comes complete with the voice coil , cone and everything to rebuild a speaker. The whole video was instructions on how to rebuild any speaker and he even had the info on several companies that sold the kits. I think his channel was mostly guitar amps.
As a last gasp try you may be able to get the original field coil speaker going by soaking the paper cone and letting it dry with the speaker up (or down) and allowing the voice coil to recenter things. It works sometimes. Speakers get off center as they age due to unequal moisture absorption. Wetting the whole cone allows the spider/diaphragm to pull everything to center again. Beats trying to find a choke and a speaker when it works.
About 20 years ago I knew a guy that repaired a couple of paper speakers with "white out" or "liquid paper" I can't remember what its called, but it seamed to work. Someone gave him some 15" speakers with torn or degraded it , it worked for at least a few months I knew him before my friends brother moved out of state.
Well done dave :-D That was looking really dead, amazing that it works at all!. Ive never seen a radio like that before, the art decco ones look a bit like it.
That is quite the radio. My dad would have been a teenager, when that was around. Imagine listening to things like Hockey Night In Canada on that. Really cool video.
@@12voltvids Very cool. What's interesting is that antenna. How electronics has changed over the years is fascinating. I'm curious as to how sensitive that radio is.
This radio was manufactured between 1938 and 1940. A piece of radio history. I have a few old ones I am collecting. Mostly for the nice cabinets, and once this one is restored it will look like a million bucks. Sure nicer than the BPC that we get today. But then the BPC is only supposed to last untill a newer one comes out and then we chuck and start over right.
@@12voltvids My mother has one she inherited from her dad; it is an RCA A31 and has 39 capacitors (!). I don't know how the hell I am going to get it working, but I think I have you to thank for warning me not to start it until it has been recapped.
For the weak audio, I'd check the resistors around the power tube. A cathode bias resistor might have really climbed in value. One day, it might be worth looking into how to recone speakers.
@@12voltvids True. But you have a DVM now, instead of waiting on the tube tester. Besides, there's nothing to say that you can't have both problems. (I guess this isn't the time to brag about getting a TV-7U for a good price at a small hamfest.... :D Don't worry, it wasn't a hamfest near you.)
@@russellhltn1396 As I said in the closing. This is part 1. The radio works. Part 2 will come shortly where I get the thing singing, and perhaps a part 3 when I deal with the cabinet. Of course I might just send that part out as I am not a wood worker.
@@12voltvids Maybe. That TV-7U I mentioned has sold (not just listed) on eBay for $500 "parts only" condition. "Pre-owned" brought in $835. No idea why so much. Maybe it's all the other vintage repair channels. ;)
The original speaker appears to be electro dynamic in that there is a dc winding to energize the magnet. Permanent magnet speakers were not common in the 1930s.
I had a speaker sound like that and found the outer edge of the cone came unglued and was hitting the basket. If the speaker is shot, use a chisel to knock the field coil off the speaker and mount it else where in the cabinet. Then use a modern PM speaker in it's place. I did that with a radio I restored.
i have a 1928 tube radio still works. every things the same since it was made i know its not in value by now but fact it still functions is crazy on it self aha. i do have a 1948 tube radio as well that needs some work though buzzing and all that i know the caps are gone on that. but did tested it as it does work. all the tubes are 100% condition not burnt out and they are the original Bendix model. the casing is like brand new no scratches or chips anywhere to be seen nor in the face place. it even has FM support even though its different thing back then but today's music stations will work just fine with it. then i have a 1952 dresser model with record player but it currently not work due to it missing a rectifier tube on the power supply. been trying to locate one such fun this is aha. Edit: a typo and cap error correction.
@5:50 you might want to do this outside. You have no idea what you are breathing. Did you consider if the set had lived downwind of an asbestos factory ?
Some people replace the field coil with an appropriate sized resistor and increase the size of the filter caps to deal with possible hum because the field coil is no longer there. Not sure what you think of that.
Field coil not needed with PM speaker. Had it running on external speaker. Sounded good. Just need to get volume up a bit. Should go much louder. Could be tube or one of the resistors changing value. Will get back on it soon. I only do these videos on my days off and besides being busy at work, the video conversion business has been busy this past month so I have been pretty busy. I have a very old marconi and Normandy radio to look at as well.
Some people have replaced the field coil type speaker with a PM type, which requires you deal with the missing field coil since that has resistance and is part of the B+ circuit. It also helps reduce hum, as you mentioned.
The field coil doesn't do much for hum, that is the job of the hum neutralizing coil which is another coil that is connected in series with the voice coil wound out of phase with the field coil. The field coil can be completely removed and a PM speaker added. If you want to keep the voltage drop a 1K wire wound resistor can be added.
Actually, now you say that, I realize that is true. I had a radio that had the filter caps wired in wrong, should had been a pi circuit but wasn't. One filter cap was wired across the field coil and the other one was connected the way it should have been but it was after the field coil.The hum was a bad as if it had no filter at all so the field coil was doing nothing. I had forgotten about the hum bucking coil even though some of my radios do have one. Would you need to increase the size of the filter caps to compensate for the loss of that hum bucking coil?
I found something for my digital microscope ,a clip on extra led light from bang good,8.00 or less ,you could clip of on your projects,it has a nice light for your videos a goose neck ,so you can move it around.?
This design was known as your typical "All American Five" radio back in the day, featuring five tubes. Voltages could be lethal to those inexperienced. One should use an isolation power generator and when installing a new plug/cord, use a newer polarized plug. Wired correctly, will ensure that the chassis in grounded. To make the "All American Five" radio safer, solder the wide prong of a polarized plug lead to the radio chassis ground. The other lead goes to the on/off switch. The other side of the switch goes to one side of the rectifier heater and the dial lamp. Originally, these radios could have the chassis "Hot" during operation or "Hot" when the radio was switched off, depending on orientation of plug inserted into the plug outlet (original schematic indicates this). I love to tinker with old tube radios, TV sets and audio gear. Nothing beats the warm & fat sound of electronic valves (tubes). Excellent videos you have & I found your tips are great.
No the AA5 was an ACDC transformerless radio. I serviced one of those last time. They uee 12BA6 12BE6 12AV6 50C5 and 35W4 tubes, all filaments in series.
AA5 is a transformer less Ac/DC design with series wired filaments. Typically 3 12 volt tubes, a 50 volt filament power amp tube and 35 volt filament rectifier.
@@12voltvids Indeed, there were versions of this commonplace design including octal, loctal and also the newer series-strung miniature tubes -- and some AA5 chassis had combinations of those types. I don't seem to recall AA5 chassis using any tubes older than the octal tubes that had a grid connection on the top of the tube. One would not necessarily need to add a series resistor in the filament string to accommodate for today's higher household voltages, at least not here in the U.S.
@@12voltvids You have a set that utilises the miniature 7-pin tubes/valves, which is a later AA5 tube complement. My 1947 RCA gold-bezeled model 75X11 employs the octal tubes 12SA7, 12SK7, 12SQ7, 50L6GT and 35Z5GT, also accommodating 121-volt household current. The U.S. versions of these receivers were AC/DC models, with the filter capacitors for 60-cycle alternating current. As I recall, the filter capacitors on the early Canadian units were designed for 25 Hz.
I've seen you before use your oscilloscope to cipher which side is negative on those style caps, so did you have to do that before you installed them? Also is there something cheaper to use to test that with? Thank you for the video Dave.
There is not a negative side to these caps. There is a outside shield side. Using a scope will show you which side picks up the most induced noise. That side goes to the ground side. I didn't show it on this one as I have before as I have already identified which side is the shield on these caps. If you get them backwards it really isn't going to affect the receiver much except perhaps a little more noise . Nothing is going to blow up as with an electrolytic cap that is in backwards.
@@12voltvids OK, now I understand why I thought negative instead of ground, because to me that seems all the same. Thank you for your answer because that one had me frigging confused!!!!!!! LOL. Shield side also makes me think negative??? Who knows, it's just my crazy old mind. But you are teaching me a lot.
@@AThreeDogNight Capacitors that are polarized will me marked. Some of the old paper caps were marked as outside foil. That side was normally connected to ground or the plate side if it was a coupling cap, so that the inside foil strip would be connected to the next stage as the outside foil acted as a shield. I should do a paper cap dissection video to show the inside even though I know others have already done this.
@@12voltvids That's not a bad idea for those of us trying to learn all the differences of the capacitor rolls & functions. Like when you need to find the shield & why on those brown caps, I think Mylar...maybe, can never remember. I have seen some electrolytics opened but not much on the explanations of what was really going on. Then maybe throw in some diodes & all the different names associated with those. Thank you for your reply.
If this was around in part of World War 2, my dad would have been a teenager then. Most of his siblings would have been adults during parts of World War 2.
That what I thought. One was the audio output and the other the detector first audio. I swapped that one and it is fine but I don't have the output so I will test that one.
when I was about 12 I was given a old radio that had a field coil speaker the coil was damage I knew better than put the wires together so I put a C7 christmas light inplace of the field coil and surprising it worked I used that radio everyday for at least 5 years before the tubes started to fail
It actually won't hurt anything. Voltage will be a little higher but nowhere near the maximum plate voltage. A 1k resistor will bring the voltage back to where the field coil drops it to.
Us collectors don't run many hours up on theses old beasts, they are mostly show pieces to display. I use my replica solid state radio to listen to. No point of running up hours on the tubes that will eventually fail, and will be impossible to find these days, especially the older metal jacket tubes.
It just needed some loving from a good tech after someone years ago tried to fix it with his meat hooks. The repair price probably exceeded the cost of a new radio and they stopped working on it
i seem to have the same issue with having months of videos that need edited and uploaded. life, and kids spreading the plague, can affect productivity. cant wait to see the followup. get well man!
I generally try to stay on top of the repair production and editing, but I do work full time, and run a archiving business, and have been quite busy archiving tapes and 8mm film to digital. These projects take time too. I still have unprocessed time lapse images I shot down in Southern Utah Grand Canyon that I shot back in 2016 that I haven`t even looked at yet as the images are all in RAW format. Need to process and grade those images into JPG to make a movie file.
last year i was keeping up with everything. but this year Ive been working part time and helping take care of an uncle who's in his upper 80s. I still get a few videos made but the editing isnt my favorite thing to do, and as you know very time consuming sometimes. Last year this time i had a 2 yr old HDD fail that had several videos i hadnt edited. i was able to retrieve some of the data but have not even edited them. Which now i keep more than one copy of my videos so i dont loose anything. Im not really doing videos to make money on YT, i just like to have the information out their for others if they need. and i have kids and grand-kids that live far away so my videos allow them to see what Ive been up too. Ive watched most of your travel videos , i like seeing parts of the world Ive not been too. Hope you get to feeling better!
I know that feeling of loosing data. I keep all my files on external drives that are only in the dock when I am actually using them. Editing really doesn't take me long because I shoot for editing, and I have been editing at a high level since I started my production company in 85. Back then it was tape based, and that was time consuming. NLE is a quick and easy task, as I have everything organized ready to go. I also tend to use the KIS principle. That being Keep It Simple. No flashy special effects, just quick and dirty cuts, simple titles ect. I didn't start out on youtube looking to make money, but now with 1300 + videos I am starting to make some which is an incentive to do more.
KIS is what Ive been trying to do this year. I try not to get off topic and ramble too much. Editing does get better the more you do it, which is how most things work out in life. practice makes perfect.....most of the time.
I call bullshit on that one. Unnecessary removal of the tubes causes far more stress on the tubes. You are creating a physical stress where the wire goes through the glass. This can cause a micro crack that will cause air to leak in and that will destroy the tube. Never pull out tubes without a valid reason to do so like testing or replacing. These type are less likely to be damaged this way because they have a socket on them and the tube wires are soldered in, but the miniature all glass tube types should never be removed until they fail. Back in the 60s I learned this when my dad would pull all the tubes out and take them to the drugstore and test them. A week later a few more would go bad. Servicaman comes over and scolded my dad for doing that and showed him the little cracks around the base of the tube.
True, avoid removing them or getting oil from finger prints on them due to handling. Also true, the amount of heat transfered from soldering leads to tube sockets is lower than what most tubes when warmed up to full operating state.
Any particular reason Mylar caps instead of, for instance orange drops or IC yellow axial caps or those brown drop caps that everyone else seems to be using? I don’t understand if it really makes much of a difference. I’ve used the Illinois Capacitor yellow caps and the orange drops in radio restos and don’t see any real difference. Really like to know your thoughts and if you feel there is any difference... Buddy
Nope, because I am cheap. These caps are cheap. Some of those capacitors are quite expensive, this is an old AM radio. Pretty much anything will work in these, their job is to block DC from one state getting into the next. Each design has slightly different properties, but in an old AM radio you won't see any difference, and those old antiques are not going to be used. Turned on to demo they work, and then turned off and put on display. I turn on my old tube radios about once a month for about an hour just to keep things working, but I don't want to run up hours because the tubes are very hard to find these days.
Well, I’m cheap too actually. :-) I’ve rebuild probably fifty or sixty radios from 31’ to 61’ in the past four or five years since retiring and I’ve never really known what is best, I used the orange drops for a couple of years then started using the yellow axial caps just because they fit so well. I really love doing it and adore videos like this. Plus this has been so great with the transformer fiasco. Thanks for your answer, I really wanted to ask someone like you that really knows their stuff, this will help me out in the future.
I can see it works for you but perhaps learning some theory would be a good move, the new solder joints looked weak due to poor mechanical connection on some and leaving the iron on too long, No fuse and two pin plug are safety worries for me but if you are not going to use it it its not really an issue, until it is plugged in.
Barium oxide is mainly used in the cathode material of a CRT. Can also be used for the hot cathode in regular vacuum tubes. It is more an an irritant than anything else. Don't eat the stuff. Older tubes used lead oxide.
There are a few that lean heavy on theory and I fall asleep after about 2 minutes, wake up with a bunch of drool down my shirt. Reminds me of my days taking Sony training seminars. (I put on up I recorded on SuperBeta so you can see what a snooze fest they were. It was even better when they went to computer based training. Those days we were sitting at home doing the course of computer. Those ones we could fall asleep without the instructor throwing something at you.
I hav'nt got through a theory video yet without falling asleep.But the only problem is you missed the video so you start it again convincing yourself that you will get to the end this time.But you dont.LOL
Nope. This is 1939. By the 1940s they had developed miniature tubes. These octal tubes were the second generation. I have older radios that use even bigger tubes.
I would have had a nice hot air solder work station is the positie had followed directions and not left it at the door. Instead the porch pirate got one.
Few weeks ago. I talked about it on another video. While I was at a restuarant a little kid was standing on his chair facing me coughing and when I said something to the kids mother she talked to the manager and I was asked to leave. All I said was I didn't appreciate her kid spreading his disease around and she said he is only 3 so I said and how old are you. Control your kid.
They are Klien electricians scissors, they are sharp as hell Use them at work to cut kevlar sheathing from fiber optic cable when prepping to splice. These ones are a little dull/ Once they dull down I get a new pair for work and recycle the old pair.
I found a schematic while watching the video at www.radiomuseum.org/r/canadian_g_kl_50.html. The valve list could to be the same as yours (at least 2 of them were); 6SA7 6SK7 6SQ7 6K6G 5Y4G
To operate a receiver.....??? Probably filled with witches How else could the box talk?? On a more logical note. Have you tried image search of the radio case? Sometimes others have sold one with the model number listed
I spent a fair bit of time yesterday looking for it. I am sure it is out there, but no free schematic yet. I have it working now so that is less of an issue now. Low audio I attribute to probably a weak audio output tube. A visit to the tube tester to confirm.
. I have a similar vintage Farmers Radio very ornate waiting for me expect similar issue will probably search for date codes, narrow it down. Good luck with it
Some of these tubes were introduced in 1938 - I guess its possible its pre war, but unlikely. (The war started in '39...In the rest of the world anyhow...)
All the paper caps need to be replaced no matter what before applying power. They go electrically leaky and will drive tubes into over bias which will burn out tubes, transformers ect. All the paper caps and then it can be powered up to test.
It is actually a CGE KL-50. I have the print of it now. Will come in handy when I get back on it. The C418 is a 4 tube model that uses 12au6 12av7 35w4 and 50c5. This one uses 6sa7 6sk7 6sq7 6k6g and 5y4g.
Провод питания через выключатель на прямую без предохранителя, всё в изоленте, старые провода не убрал, стриппера нет, шасси не помыл, эмиссию ламп проверять не умеет, сердце кровью обливается, смотреть больно - халтура и колхоз ! :))) но лайк поставил, за старание ! :)))
Well you can't do much when some asshole sneezes or coughs in your face. In my case it was a 3 year old diseased little kid who had a terrible mother. I say that because if she was a good mother, she wouldn't be taking her brat to a restaurant and allowing him to cough all over everyone.
![Electronic Circuitry Diagnosis And Fault Finding! [Repair]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LC7OjuYAOQE/mqdefault.jpg)
Great fix. I enjoy seeing how you logically eliminate to the problem parts.
I love seeing old radios being saved,and this one seems part of your country's history,nice video thanks
Yip love the old Canadian made stuff. Made with pride in a long dead industry.
I remember awhile back I seen a video where a replaced the cone of a speaker, he bought and you can still buy speaker rebuild kits, it comes complete with the voice coil , cone and everything to rebuild a speaker. The whole video was instructions on how to rebuild any speaker and he even had the info on several companies that sold the kits. I think his channel was mostly guitar amps.
As a last gasp try you may be able to get the original field coil speaker going by soaking the paper cone and letting it dry with the speaker up (or down) and allowing the voice coil to recenter things. It works sometimes. Speakers get off center as they age due to unequal moisture absorption. Wetting the whole cone allows the spider/diaphragm to pull everything to center again.
Beats trying to find a choke and a speaker when it works.
Thanks for the video, I love that you are so passionate for AM Radio
About 20 years ago I knew a guy that repaired a couple of paper speakers with "white out" or "liquid paper" I can't remember what its called, but it seamed to work. Someone gave him some 15" speakers with torn or degraded it , it worked for at least a few months I knew him before my friends brother moved out of state.
Nail polish also works for cracked cones.
Well done dave :-D
That was looking really dead, amazing that it works at all!.
Ive never seen a radio like that before, the art decco ones look a bit like it.
Great video 👍 can you do a video explaining the electro magnetic speaker please. Kind regards Christopher.
That is quite the radio. My dad would have been a teenager, when that was around. Imagine listening to things like Hockey Night In Canada on that. Really cool video.
And I can still listen to hockey night in canada on it. With 2 full time sports stations on AM here.
@@12voltvids Very cool. What's interesting is that antenna. How electronics has changed over the years is fascinating. I'm curious as to how sensitive that radio is.
Took me longer to find the stupid schematic than to fix it. The model is a CGE KL50 for those interested.
Great Video Thanks for sharing your Knowledge it is very useful to me.
The date code on the volume pot should give you the date of manufacture.
(@1:14) - that just confirms my “stuck knob” theory: there’s always one knob that just won’t come off, at least not without brute force! 😆
Those older tubes are more interesting. They have shapes that only very old radios had.
Lol. Humming. 🙃
They are just cool to look at.
His Majesty! My dad was 3 when Her Majesty was crowned, and my mother wasn’t even born yet.
This radio was manufactured between 1938 and 1940. A piece of radio history. I have a few old ones I am collecting. Mostly for the nice cabinets, and once this one is restored it will look like a million bucks.
Sure nicer than the BPC that we get today. But then the BPC is only supposed to last untill a newer one comes out and then we chuck and start over right.
@@12voltvids My mother has one she inherited from her dad; it is an RCA A31 and has 39 capacitors (!). I don't know how the hell I am going to get it working, but I think I have you to thank for warning me not to start it until it has been recapped.
With all that work so far it's more of a 'resurrection' than a restoration.
Well now that I have it working I can begin the restoration.
Your old tube radio repair service very good 👍💖
For the weak audio, I'd check the resistors around the power tube. A cathode bias resistor might have really climbed in value. One day, it might be worth looking into how to recone speakers.
Going to test the output tube first. This radio had 1 bad tube in it.
@@12voltvids True. But you have a DVM now, instead of waiting on the tube tester. Besides, there's nothing to say that you can't have both problems. (I guess this isn't the time to brag about getting a TV-7U for a good price at a small hamfest.... :D Don't worry, it wasn't a hamfest near you.)
@@russellhltn1396
As I said in the closing. This is part 1. The radio works. Part 2 will come shortly where I get the thing singing, and perhaps a part 3 when I deal with the cabinet. Of course I might just send that part out as I am not a wood worker.
@@russellhltn1396
I think they all recognize me at the local hamfest and I get a special price.
@@12voltvids Maybe. That TV-7U I mentioned has sold (not just listed) on eBay for $500 "parts only" condition. "Pre-owned" brought in $835. No idea why so much. Maybe it's all the other vintage repair channels. ;)
The original speaker appears to be electro dynamic in that there is a dc winding to energize the magnet. Permanent magnet speakers were not common in the 1930s.
Yes it is an electro dynamic with hum invert coil. which is a voice coil wound out of whase with the cone voice coil placed on the field coil
Looking forward to part two.
I had a speaker sound like that and found the outer edge of the cone came unglued and was hitting the basket. If the speaker is shot, use a chisel to knock the field coil off the speaker and mount it else where in the cabinet. Then use a modern PM speaker in it's place. I did that with a radio I restored.
Outer edge is fine on this one. Voice coil rubbing. A pm speaker will go in it's place some day.
i have a 1928 tube radio still works. every things the same since it was made i know its not in value by now but fact it still functions is crazy on it self aha. i do have a 1948 tube radio as well that needs some work though buzzing and all that i know the caps are gone on that. but did tested it as it does work. all the tubes are 100% condition not burnt out and they are the original Bendix model. the casing is like brand new no scratches or chips anywhere to be seen nor in the face place. it even has FM support even though its different thing back then but today's music stations will work just fine with it. then i have a 1952 dresser model with record player but it currently not work due to it missing a rectifier tube on the power supply. been trying to locate one such fun this is aha.
Edit: a typo and cap error correction.
@5:50 you might want to do this outside. You have no idea what you are breathing. Did you consider if the set had lived downwind of an asbestos factory ?
Your radio seems to be a variant of the (Canadian) General Electric KL-50 model. The KL-50 seems to differ mainly in having a phono input.
Oop! Meant to add a link: www.radiomuseum.org/r/canadian_g_kl_50.html
Yes it looks similar
The chassis seems to be identical except for the phono input (which is unswitched - tune to silent part of band to use.) The schematic should fit.
Some people replace the field coil with an appropriate sized resistor and increase the size of the filter caps to deal with possible hum because the field coil is no longer there. Not sure what you think of that.
Field coil not needed with PM speaker. Had it running on external speaker. Sounded good. Just need to get volume up a bit. Should go much louder. Could be tube or one of the resistors changing value. Will get back on it soon. I only do these videos on my days off and besides being busy at work, the video conversion business has been busy this past month so I have been pretty busy. I have a very old marconi and Normandy radio to look at as well.
Some people have replaced the field coil type speaker with a PM type, which requires you deal with the missing field coil since that has resistance and is part of the B+ circuit. It also helps reduce hum, as you mentioned.
The field coil doesn't do much for hum, that is the job of the hum neutralizing coil which is another coil that is connected in series with the voice coil wound out of phase with the field coil. The field coil can be completely removed and a PM speaker added. If you want to keep the voltage drop a 1K wire wound resistor can be added.
Actually, now you say that, I realize that is true. I had a radio that had the filter caps wired in wrong, should had been a pi circuit but wasn't. One filter cap was wired across the field coil and the other one was connected the way it should have been but it was after the field coil.The hum was a bad as if it had no filter at all so the field coil was doing nothing. I had forgotten about the hum bucking coil even though some of my radios do have one. Would you need to increase the size of the filter caps to compensate for the loss of that hum bucking coil?
I enjoy reviving old radios, yeah I only use one of them frequently which is a nice large Ge X415 and rest I will run them for 30 min twice a month.
I fire mine up once in awhile. Running them for a few minutes .
I found something for my digital microscope ,a clip on extra led light from bang good,8.00 or less ,you could clip of on your projects,it has a nice light for your videos a goose neck ,so you can move it around.?
This design was known as your typical "All American Five" radio back in the day, featuring five tubes. Voltages could be lethal to those inexperienced. One should use an isolation power generator and when installing a new plug/cord, use a newer polarized plug. Wired correctly, will ensure that the chassis in grounded. To make the "All American Five" radio safer, solder the wide prong of a polarized plug lead to the radio chassis ground. The other lead goes to the on/off switch. The other side of the switch goes to one side of the rectifier heater and the dial lamp. Originally, these radios could have the chassis "Hot" during operation or "Hot" when the radio was switched off, depending on orientation of plug inserted into the plug outlet (original schematic indicates this). I love to tinker with old tube radios, TV sets and audio gear. Nothing beats the warm & fat sound of electronic valves (tubes). Excellent videos you have & I found your tips are great.
Wow! Thank you very much for the nice video!
I know little about tube radios, could it be based on the all american five ?
No the AA5 was an ACDC transformerless radio. I serviced one of those last time. They uee 12BA6 12BE6 12AV6 50C5 and 35W4 tubes, all filaments in series.
Did you test the new caps to identify the outer foil end? you make no mention of it.
Get well ,Sir get well !
If it weren't for that large power transformer, the chassis would very closely resemble what we call here in the U.S. a postwar AA5 receiver.
AA5 is a transformer less Ac/DC design with series wired filaments. Typically 3 12 volt tubes, a 50 volt filament power amp tube and 35 volt filament rectifier.
@@12voltvids Indeed, there were versions of this commonplace design including octal, loctal and also the newer series-strung miniature tubes -- and some AA5 chassis had combinations of those types. I don't seem to recall AA5 chassis using any tubes older than the octal tubes that had a grid connection on the top of the tube. One would not necessarily need to add a series resistor in the filament string to accommodate for today's higher household voltages, at least not here in the U.S.
@@chetpomeroy1399
I have an aa5.
Tubes 12av6, 12be3, 12ba6, 35w4, 50c6.
Add the filaments up and you get 121 volts.
@@12voltvids You have a set that utilises the miniature 7-pin tubes/valves, which is a later AA5 tube complement. My 1947 RCA gold-bezeled model 75X11 employs the octal tubes 12SA7, 12SK7, 12SQ7, 50L6GT and 35Z5GT, also accommodating 121-volt household current. The U.S. versions of these receivers were AC/DC models, with the filter capacitors for 60-cycle alternating current. As I recall, the filter capacitors on the early Canadian units were designed for 25 Hz.
@@chetpomeroy1399 the old sparton radio i worked on last month was an octal base aa5
sOMETIMES YOU CAN ADJUST THOSE if TRANSFORMERS top screws in the center and that will bring the volume up also
Ask Santa for a pair of side cutters for Christmas,makes life easier,regards Colin
I have about 4 pairs of them. I like the snips. They are bloody sharp.
I never knew Canada ever required a license for a receiver. Interesting. Nice find.
Prior to ww2 a license was required.
I've seen you before use your oscilloscope to cipher which side is negative on those style caps, so did you have to do that before you installed them? Also is there something cheaper to use to test that with? Thank you for the video Dave.
There is not a negative side to these caps. There is a outside shield side. Using a scope will show you which side picks up the most induced noise. That side goes to the ground side. I didn't show it on this one as I have before as I have already identified which side is the shield on these caps. If you get them backwards it really isn't going to affect the receiver much except perhaps a little more noise . Nothing is going to blow up as with an electrolytic cap that is in backwards.
@@12voltvids OK, now I understand why I thought negative instead of ground, because to me that seems all the same. Thank you for your answer because that one had me frigging confused!!!!!!! LOL. Shield side also makes me think negative??? Who knows, it's just my crazy old mind. But you are teaching me a lot.
@@AThreeDogNight
Capacitors that are polarized will me marked. Some of the old paper caps were marked as outside foil. That side was normally connected to ground or the plate side if it was a coupling cap, so that the inside foil strip would be connected to the next stage as the outside foil acted as a shield. I should do a paper cap dissection video to show the inside even though I know others have already done this.
@@12voltvids That's not a bad idea for those of us trying to learn all the differences of the capacitor rolls & functions. Like when you need to find the shield & why on those brown caps, I think Mylar...maybe, can never remember. I have seen some electrolytics opened but not much on the explanations of what was really going on. Then maybe throw in some diodes & all the different names associated with those. Thank you for your reply.
If this was around in part of World War 2, my dad would have been a teenager then. Most of his siblings would have been adults during parts of World War 2.
you can take the speaker out fit a 2 k resistor in place of the field coil and fit a permanent magnet speaker
Whats the fun in doing that? Want to keep it original as possible.
You mentioned that 2 tubes were not in their sockets. Perhaps they are left out because they are bad?
That what I thought. One was the audio output and the other the detector first audio. I swapped that one and it is fine but I don't have the output so I will test that one.
when I was about 12 I was given a old radio that had a field coil speaker the coil was damage I knew better than put the wires together so I put a C7 christmas light inplace of the field coil and surprising it worked I used that radio everyday for at least 5 years before the tubes started to fail
It actually won't hurt anything. Voltage will be a little higher but nowhere near the maximum plate voltage. A 1k resistor will bring the voltage back to where the field coil drops it to.
Us collectors don't run many hours up on theses old beasts, they are mostly show pieces to display. I use my replica solid state radio to listen to. No point of running up hours on the tubes that will eventually fail, and will be impossible to find these days, especially the older metal jacket tubes.
@@12voltvids in 1962 tubes were readily available
@@goldenboy5500
In 1962 they were in every drugstore. But today the are getting hard to find. 30 years ago some were getting scarce.
It just needed some loving from a good tech after someone years ago tried to fix it with his meat hooks. The repair price probably exceeded the cost of a new radio and they stopped working on it
If there is any cadmium plating on that steel chassis, you'll want to be careful about dust.
i seem to have the same issue with having months of videos that need edited and uploaded. life, and kids spreading the plague, can affect productivity. cant wait to see the followup. get well man!
I generally try to stay on top of the repair production and editing, but I do work full time, and run a archiving business, and have been quite busy archiving tapes and 8mm film to digital. These projects take time too. I still have unprocessed time lapse images I shot down in Southern Utah Grand Canyon that I shot back in 2016 that I haven`t even looked at yet as the images are all in RAW format. Need to process and grade those images into JPG to make a movie file.
last year i was keeping up with everything. but this year Ive been working part time and helping take care of an uncle who's in his upper 80s. I still get a few videos made but the editing isnt my favorite thing to do, and as you know very time consuming sometimes. Last year this time i had a 2 yr old HDD fail that had several videos i hadnt edited. i was able to retrieve some of the data but have not even edited them. Which now i keep more than one copy of my videos so i dont loose anything. Im not really doing videos to make money on YT, i just like to have the information out their for others if they need. and i have kids and grand-kids that live far away so my videos allow them to see what Ive been up too. Ive watched most of your travel videos , i like seeing parts of the world Ive not been too. Hope you get to feeling better!
I know that feeling of loosing data. I keep all my files on external drives that are only in the dock when I am actually using them.
Editing really doesn't take me long because I shoot for editing, and I have been editing at a high level since I started my production company in 85. Back then it was tape based, and that was time consuming. NLE is a quick and easy task, as I have everything organized ready to go. I also tend to use the KIS principle. That being Keep It Simple. No flashy special effects, just quick and dirty cuts, simple titles ect. I didn't start out on youtube looking to make money, but now with 1300 + videos I am starting to make some which is an incentive to do more.
KIS is what Ive been trying to do this year. I try not to get off topic and ramble too much. Editing does get better the more you do it, which is how most things work out in life. practice makes perfect.....most of the time.
IMO, you shouldn't be soldering in leads/components onto tube socket terminals with the tube installed; the heat may destroy the tube pin(s).
I call bullshit on that one.
Unnecessary removal of the tubes causes far more stress on the tubes. You are creating a physical stress where the wire goes through the glass. This can cause a micro crack that will cause air to leak in and that will destroy the tube. Never pull out tubes without a valid reason to do so like testing or replacing. These type are less likely to be damaged this way because they have a socket on them and the tube wires are soldered in, but the miniature all glass tube types should never be removed until they fail. Back in the 60s I learned this when my dad would pull all the tubes out and take them to the drugstore and test them. A week later a few more would go bad. Servicaman comes over and scolded my dad for doing that and showed him the little cracks around the base of the tube.
True, avoid removing them or getting oil from finger prints on them due to handling. Also true, the amount of heat transfered from soldering leads to tube sockets is lower than what most tubes when warmed up to full operating state.
Any particular reason Mylar caps instead of, for instance orange drops or IC yellow axial caps or those brown drop caps that everyone else seems to be using? I don’t understand if it really makes much of a difference. I’ve used the Illinois Capacitor yellow caps and the orange drops in radio restos and don’t see any real difference. Really like to know your thoughts and if you feel there is any difference... Buddy
Nope, because I am cheap. These caps are cheap. Some of those capacitors are quite expensive, this is an old AM radio. Pretty much anything will work in these, their job is to block DC from one state getting into the next.
Each design has slightly different properties, but in an old AM radio you won't see any difference, and those old antiques are not going to be used. Turned on to demo they work, and then turned off and put on display. I turn on my old tube radios about once a month for about an hour just to keep things working, but I don't want to run up hours because the tubes are very hard to find these days.
Well, I’m cheap too actually. :-) I’ve rebuild probably fifty or sixty radios from 31’ to 61’ in the past four or five years since retiring and I’ve never really known what is best, I used the orange drops for a couple of years then started using the yellow axial caps just because they fit so well. I really love doing it and adore videos like this. Plus this has been so great with the transformer fiasco. Thanks for your answer, I really wanted to ask someone like you that really knows their stuff, this will help me out in the future.
I have those in my tube amp. Bloody expensive.
I can see it works for you but perhaps learning some theory would be a good move, the new solder joints looked weak due to poor mechanical connection on some and leaving the iron on too long, No fuse and two pin plug are safety worries for me but if you are not going to use it it its not really an issue, until it is plugged in.
Lets say we agree to disagree. The mechanical connection is fine. Perhaps you should not only learn theory but practical repair techniques.
obviously that power transformer has been changed out... not mounted crooked like that from factory...
Tell me something I don't already know.
A word of advice: Some vacuum tubes could contain barium oxide which is toxic. So it's not a good idea to open them up.
Barium oxide is mainly used in the cathode material of a CRT. Can also be used for the hot cathode in regular vacuum tubes. It is more an an irritant than anything else. Don't eat the stuff. Older tubes used lead oxide.
By" the other guy" I assume you mean either Xraytonyb or Mr Carlson's lab ? 😆
There are a few that lean heavy on theory and I fall asleep after about 2 minutes, wake up with a bunch of drool down my shirt.
Reminds me of my days taking Sony training seminars. (I put on up I recorded on SuperBeta so you can see what a snooze fest they were. It was even better when they went to computer based training. Those days we were sitting at home doing the course of computer. Those ones we could fall asleep without the instructor throwing something at you.
@@12voltvids hahahaha yeah I remember that Sony upload. I do often fall asleep to in depth electronics videos. I find them soothing.
There is a reason I don't spend a lot of time doing theory videos..... I would nod off while giving the presentation.
Maybe he's talking about big Clive
I hav'nt got through a theory video yet without falling asleep.But the only problem is you missed the video so you start it again convincing yourself that you will get to the end this time.But you dont.LOL
First year made 1955, in canada, for home use .
Nope. This is 1939. By the 1940s they had developed miniature tubes. These octal tubes were the second generation. I have older radios that use even bigger tubes.
You deserve a new pair of precision electronics diagonal flush cutters.
I would have had a nice hot air solder work station is the positie had followed directions and not left it at the door. Instead the porch pirate got one.
Need to glue and recone that old speaker.
What kid coughed on you?
Few weeks ago. I talked about it on another video. While I was at a restuarant a little kid was standing on his chair facing me coughing and when I said something to the kids mother she talked to the manager and I was asked to leave. All I said was I didn't appreciate her kid spreading his disease around and she said he is only 3 so I said and how old are you. Control your kid.
@@12voltvids You were asked to leave? That's horseshit! What restaurant was this?
@@infinitecanadian
Excuse given was they needed the table. I had just finished and was reading a story in the newspaper.
@@12voltvids Pff! Nonsense. They should treat customers with respect; a disappointed customer tells an average of 10 people about a bad experience.
@@infinitecanadian
Well obviously the people with the out of control kid were friends with the owner.
I have a pair of those little scissors and they may look like kids scissors but they are the sharpest ones that I own.
They are Klien electricians scissors, they are sharp as hell Use them at work to cut kevlar sheathing from fiber optic cable when prepping to splice.
These ones are a little dull/ Once they dull down I get a new pair for work and recycle the old pair.
Healing ray
Good stuff did not take you long to figure it out.
I found a schematic while watching the video at www.radiomuseum.org/r/canadian_g_kl_50.html.
The valve list could to be the same as yours (at least 2 of them were);
6SA7
6SK7
6SQ7
6K6G
5Y4G
Known as your typical "All American Five" radio back in late 30s-early 1940s.
To operate a receiver.....??? Probably filled with witches How else could the box talk?? On a more logical note. Have you tried image search of the radio case? Sometimes others have sold one with the model number listed
I spent a fair bit of time yesterday looking for it. I am sure it is out there, but no free schematic yet. I have it working now so that is less of an issue now.
Low audio I attribute to probably a weak audio output tube. A visit to the tube tester to confirm.
. I have a similar vintage Farmers Radio very ornate waiting for me expect similar issue will probably search for date codes, narrow it down. Good luck with it
The farmers radios were AC/DC with tune filaments in series. This is because many farms were not on the grid and had their own DC power supply.
Some of these tubes were introduced in 1938 - I guess its possible its pre war, but unlikely. (The war started in '39...In the rest of the world anyhow...)
Cue 12Voltvids trying to tell me I'm wrong as usual ;o)
Canada entered the war Sept 39.
This chassis is the KL50, and a quick search shows it was made 39/40 so right at the start of the war.
@@12voltvids Oh shit apologies...I dropped you below the parallel...
i would be putting a earth on the chassis 3 wire power cord
The external antenna has an earth wire as well. One of those is connected to the chassis.
I would have thought that you would have at least checked all the vital components b4 changing a bunch of stuff. Cart b4 the horse.
All the paper caps need to be replaced no matter what before applying power. They go electrically leaky and will drive tubes into over bias which will burn out tubes, transformers ect. All the paper caps and then it can be powered up to test.
I can't help but point out that the second world war started before 1938.
Canada entered the war in europe Sept 10 1939, but it wasn't until pearl harbor that the americans got involved and it became ww2
Final stage Germany calling Germany calling !!!!!!!!!!!!
It is a C418 ge there is a schematic on radio museum for it!
It is actually a CGE KL-50. I have the print of it now. Will come in handy when I get back on it.
The C418 is a 4 tube model that uses 12au6 12av7 35w4 and 50c5.
This one uses 6sa7 6sk7 6sq7 6k6g and 5y4g.
the RCA Victor ACE chassis is looking identical to yours : www.radiomuseum.org/r/rca_victor_ace.html
Провод питания через выключатель на прямую без предохранителя, всё в изоленте, старые провода не убрал, стриппера нет, шасси не помыл, эмиссию ламп проверять не умеет, сердце кровью обливается, смотреть больно - халтура и колхоз ! :))) но лайк поставил, за старание ! :)))
check out earth clinic, alot of health restoration and prevention that really works
you got a cold, yuck, look into making colidal silver, i have for over 10 years, no flue or cold, etc.
Well you can't do much when some asshole sneezes or coughs in your face. In my case it was a 3 year old diseased little kid who had a terrible mother. I say that because if she was a good mother, she wouldn't be taking her brat to a restaurant and allowing him to cough all over everyone.
@Cyberbob what about air born pathogens?
That's what I said.
.
Your soldering work is poor. 14mins in and all of your connections are "not the best" as we would say in Scotland.