You mentioned that you don't like to unsweat because of the oil and risk of fire. 2 things that happened to me (in my earlier days). Unsweating once in an attic holey crap was that a ball of fire lol (I can laugh now but scared the crap out of me). Second is something people should know (maybe should be in a video you would do Bryan, on fixing condenser coils). Found small leak in condenser coil. Emptied ref' from low side only (I know 🙈). Figured unit is empty. Started my torch to heat up the pipe so my rod would melt on the hole. Now that was not a ball of fire but such a boom that I felt it in my bones. The expansion from the heat caused the pipe to blow. Thank God I didn't get injured, was pretty close.
I am just a customer who likes to get educated. You videos definitely do the job. How many contractors would actually be this thorough. And how do you find a contractor as detailed oriented as described in your video? Thanks for continuing with your excellent instructional videos.
Me too. Freshly retired mechanical engineer and 15 yo Carrier heat pump started leaking. They charged $168/lb. for 4 lbs and 2 days later same problem, so obviously they missed the leak detection part. And on top of it, I could get 25 pounds of virgin 410a sealed delivered for $12.50 a pound! (well, if I had an EPA number I could!). Tomorrow they come back to properly find the leak and we all suspect it will be the coil. Thanks to this video, at least now I can observe them and protect myself from rip offs!
The issue with corner cutting is home owner driven. Reputable companies that do all steps correctly can not compete with fly by night companies that will do the same job, without best practices for thousands cheaper. This evap video is a prime example. If that system is close to ten years old, I would want all virgin refrigerant. I want to see a print or screenshot of the standing nitrogen test, ultimate vacuum reached 100-200 and the decay rate. Most companies will use the cheapest coil available, pump down the system, and nitrogen is a maybe. The vacuum may go to 500 micron with no proof of that, nor decay rate. The first is correct. The second will work and will be what most homeowners choose as it will be much cheaper. Shopping comfort cooling repair costs is impossible without a working knowledge of procedures. Companies with the best intentions will adjust procedures to be competitive as 99% of home owners only care about cost. You see the 'great deals' and glowing recommendations based on cost on socials all the time. It's frustrating.
Very informative! Not in the profession but gives me some basic info to understand the process and good practices. A lot is still over my head. Trying to work with a company that replaced the evaporator, now a leak somewhere two weeks later.
Great instructional. I would add a VERY, nay EXTREMELY important stage if exchanging a copper coil with an aluminum. Clean, nay, SCRUB the rear and forward interior surfaces (Any area the coils will touch). You can go one step further and place a tape bearer between the existing interior and the new aluminum coil. If any copper residue finds its way onto the new aluminum coil it WILL cause it to leak.
BRYAN,,Hello, nice video, I once followed a fellow I met @a GRAINGERS, to a job, it was in PARKLAND, BROWARD COUNTY,FL as I got into that home,it smelled of SEWER GAS. he did not smell it,,he was there to just. ADD refrigerant , this was the 3rd evap, cause ? CHINESE DRYWALL, you should have seen how black the copper &copper electric wires too,That was something I will never forget ! Cheers 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Great videos! Where do you stand on pressurizing the evap with nitrogen when service valves are closed on a pumped down residential split system? Many older techs say that practice can push nitrogen into the condenser, and it should only be done if the lineset is cut away and fittings brazed in. Or, recover all refrigerant, and pressurize the entire system. I usually am not worried about new condensers, but with the number of times I have seen brazing near service valves without protection, it has me wondering where you are on the topic. Thanks for all of the great content!
I have an 8 year old York system. We lost cooling due to a leak over time. Had a company come in and diagnose it's the coil with 2 leaks. They topped off the refrigerant and gave us an estimate. I come to find that parts are covered to 10 years on YORK but, I have to use a YORK authorized repair person. So, I paid this first guy his $500 for the diagnosis and top off of the R410. He told me that the YORK authorized person I choose can just reuse the same R410 in my system. I had to choose a local York authorized repair company and they tell me that to replace my coil, they need to use all new refrigerant and charge per pound accordingly. Is this true? They already ordered and received my evap coil and want to schedule but, I feel like they are BS me. Great video!
Figures first time turning the AC unit on this year (2024)and it doesn't work. Thought it was a cap, but was the condenser coil. Never got charged for that visit, because I authorized the evap.coil replacement. It's also is a York, 2 months shy of the 10 yr warranty. Part was in stock, a full aluminum coil replacement. My local AC company that I have been using for all of my AC needs, sent 2 techs to replaced the coil about a week later. There wasn't any talk about a York authorized tech to do the work. I also have a 24 yr old R22 unit, still going strong, even in 120 degrees summers, though not so efficient. Totally unheard of such longevity, now that I see the reported life of these units is at 15 years. Just horrible for homeowners to be replacing these ever expanding expensive units in less than 15 years. Now with the new refrigerants coming out, and companies and tech having to replace some of their equipment, I fear what the new prices will be. The day is coming when when many homeowners will not have the money, and will have to do without air conditioning.
Great video again! Question for an expert: in a one way air to water heat pump with a TXV, do you need any check valves? I ask because when switching off the system hot refrigerant flows back into the evaporator coil instantly and don’t want to cause premature damage. Any thoughts is much appreciated
If pressures were at 0 psi after the evaporator failed, when it is time to pull a vacuum, should the service ports be opened to pull the vacuum? Because I’m thinking that 0 psi might mean that air got down to the pump.
after you do a pressure test with nitrogen, do you just open the valve to relieve the nitrogen or do you use the evacuation process to remove all the nitrogen?
I hope that this is not going to be trend by manufactures where you ordered a warranty evaporator coil and the new coil does not come with a drain pan.
Im trying to figure out why labor on a warranty part cost so much money? I think if a factory builds a unit that fails durring its warranty period they should cover the cost of replacement including labor. This is nuts the part new cost less then the labor to change it. Do they not know we can look online and see these prices?
(May 2024) I paid $1950, two techs schedule for 1/2 the day. I have a York (9yr8 month)with a TXV, the price included a dryer, and whatever R410 refrigerant they had to add.
Hi, great video with all the best practices! Question: if the evaporator coil is below the heater which is below the fan, do you need to fully remove heater and fan to replace the coil? I was told it must be done… I am surprised about that since I would not expect it to be structural, otherwise the weight alone could damage the coil in time… any thoughts on that?
Why is it better to have the filter dryer inside? Is it to keep from being a potential leak? I like outside because I can measure across it while looking at my manifold
What would be the procedure if system is complete flat, no refrigerant? I was able to visually find the leak at the evaporator coil, do to the puddle of oil trapped in a clear tube that was covering the distributor tube that had the leak.
I would pressurize the system with nitrogen just to double check that is your only leak. In the case of a totally flat system, you will not close off the valves and pump down the condenser. Pull a vacuum on the entire system, including the condenser. This will take much longer than pulling a vacuum on just a line set and evap coil. Besides that, the procedure is identical
Does a new evaporator coil come with plastic film that you must pull off, otherwise it will block air flow? I just had a new system put into my house today and the air seems to be flowing around the A-coil instead of through it. I was not present to watch the installation.
hello recently Hvac tech put dye through my coil part of air conditioner that sits above the furnace, the dye was put in from outside in the air conditioner unit, the dye went through the coil system that sits above the furnace and came out into the clear plastic hoses that are on the side of the furnace, so the tech stated that because of that there is a leak in my coil system that needs to be replaced, i never saw the actual coil or where the leak actually is, a new coil and refridgerant would cost $4,000 a new Lennox would cost $7500, does this sound correct?should i ask for second opinion? should i get them to come back to see the actual leak?
Sir i got a order of water chiller but instead using of copper pipe I am thinking to use plate type heat exchanger (PHE) so please tell me PHE work as effective and efficient as like copper pipes or not?
So how do you find an evaporator leak with the coil still in the furnace plenum? You can only reach part of the coil in that case if the rear of the plenum is removable (which mine is). Do you recommend removing the coil to find a leak? Isn't that a lot of wasted work and time if there is no leak?
im no expert but what they did to mine was use a dye if you see the dye on any of the runnoff plastic pipes attached to furnace or there abouts then there is probably a leak, so im told
I though if the unit was off the refrigerant stayed in the compressor. Isn't that refrigerant sound after the A\C shuts off the sound of it draining back into the compressor.
For mine, my AC company scheduled 2 techs 1/2 day, though it didn't take a 1/2 a day 3-4 hours maybe, You want two techs, because that part is bulky, and you don't want one tech trying to wrestle with it. My unit is in the attic.
I was with a tech one day up on a roof of a restaurant and found no gas in system. Evap was when pressure tested which he repaired using solder etc . Then he vacuumed and started recharging but when he turned on the compressor the motor seized or was already seized. He said the customer would have likely kept resetting the system when it was on low pressure and this would have been the reason. What is your opinion why compressor seized ???
I have not found any company in Northern Texas, Dallas area to do any of this. They come out and then show you readings from the condenser unit, never doing the soap test you show, condemning the evaporator coil as you state. I have yet to find any company to do this and we have several properties. Frustrated to no end at the lack of professionalism and the desire to just upsell you equipment. Some want extra money for dye tests.
If you pump the system down with the liquid line dryer in the condenser and close both valves, why is it necessary to replace the liquid line dryer? I don’t see how it’s exposed to air at the point.
We spent $8K for new system. Just the evaporator coil and the condenser. They did not inspect the blower or the drain lines. We are smelling something sweet every time the ac goes which I suspect refrigerant leak. The ac guy came and used a leak detector device and didn't find anything. The smell is sickening. Are those detectors 100% accurate?
@@nritchie7207 very well. 8hrs in the attic in south Texas summer, but the ac is fixed. I think sediment in the inner pan and on the condensers was the main problem.
The A frame evaporator coil was leaking r-22. We were smelling something sweet every time the ac went on. We bought a brand new unit. Condenser and A frame evap coil. We are still smelling something sweet only when the ac goes on! The installer came back and tested the coil with a leak detector. He only tested the front of the coil. Never checked the back or the sides. Now what?
Not one AC place where I live will replace the coils! They always always recommend total AC replacement! Even if the system is fine, they see the date and recommend replacement! No offense, but I've lost all trust in my local guys!
5 days no video. I almost thought we lost you forever. Awesome stuff. Thank you
Thank you Mr. Ore. You keep me ahead of the game because everyone out here in Houston does not care about best practices.
It's something Ive done countless times, but I still enjoy these vids
You mentioned that you don't like to unsweat because of the oil and risk of fire. 2 things that happened to me (in my earlier days). Unsweating once in an attic holey crap was that a ball of fire lol (I can laugh now but scared the crap out of me). Second is something people should know (maybe should be in a video you would do Bryan, on fixing condenser coils). Found small leak in condenser coil. Emptied ref' from low side only (I know 🙈). Figured unit is empty. Started my torch to heat up the pipe so my rod would melt on the hole. Now that was not a ball of fire but such a boom that I felt it in my bones. The expansion from the heat caused the pipe to blow. Thank God I didn't get injured, was pretty close.
I am just a customer who likes to get educated. You videos definitely do the job. How many contractors would actually be this thorough. And how do you find a contractor as detailed oriented as described in your video?
Thanks for continuing with your excellent instructional videos.
Me too. Freshly retired mechanical engineer and 15 yo Carrier heat pump started leaking. They charged $168/lb. for 4 lbs and 2 days later same problem, so obviously they missed the leak detection part. And on top of it, I could get 25 pounds of virgin 410a sealed delivered for $12.50 a pound! (well, if I had an EPA number I could!). Tomorrow they come back to properly find the leak and we all suspect it will be the coil. Thanks to this video, at least now I can observe them and protect myself from rip offs!
The issue with corner cutting is home owner driven. Reputable companies that do all steps correctly can not compete with fly by night companies that will do the same job, without best practices for thousands cheaper. This evap video is a prime example. If that system is close to ten years old, I would want all virgin refrigerant. I want to see a print or screenshot of the standing nitrogen test, ultimate vacuum reached 100-200 and the decay rate. Most companies will use the cheapest coil available, pump down the system, and nitrogen is a maybe. The vacuum may go to 500 micron with no proof of that, nor decay rate. The first is correct. The second will work and will be what most homeowners choose as it will be much cheaper. Shopping comfort cooling repair costs is impossible without a working knowledge of procedures. Companies with the best intentions will adjust procedures to be competitive as 99% of home owners only care about cost. You see the 'great deals' and glowing recommendations based on cost on socials all the time. It's frustrating.
The videos might not get much viewership but thank you for this. Its helping out so much.
Short, sweet, and to the point! Thank you.
Very informative! Not in the profession but gives me some basic info to understand the process and good practices. A lot is still over my head. Trying to work with a company that replaced the evaporator, now a leak somewhere two weeks later.
Greatest teacher ever....Wish I could of attended your class..
Great instructional. I would add a VERY, nay EXTREMELY important stage if exchanging a copper coil with an aluminum. Clean, nay, SCRUB the rear and forward interior surfaces (Any area the coils will touch).
You can go one step further and place a tape bearer between the existing interior and the new aluminum coil. If any copper residue finds its way onto the new aluminum coil it WILL cause it to leak.
Justin Thackston
Amazing videos 👏🏼 always help understand concepts with the great visuals you include with the detailed explanation
BRYAN,,Hello, nice video, I once followed a fellow I met @a GRAINGERS, to a job, it was in PARKLAND, BROWARD COUNTY,FL as I got into that home,it smelled of SEWER GAS. he did not smell it,,he was there to just. ADD refrigerant , this was the 3rd evap, cause ? CHINESE DRYWALL, you should have seen how black the copper &copper electric wires too,That was something I will never forget !
Cheers 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Another great video. Learned a lot from this one from start to finish.
Great videos! Where do you stand on pressurizing the evap with nitrogen when service valves are closed on a pumped down residential split system? Many older techs say that practice can push nitrogen into the condenser, and it should only be done if the lineset is cut away and fittings brazed in. Or, recover all refrigerant, and pressurize the entire system. I usually am not worried about new condensers, but with the number of times I have seen brazing near service valves without protection, it has me wondering where you are on the topic. Thanks for all of the great content!
Thanks. In case I need to call for repair, I have a much better idea of what to look for while observing the procedure.😊
I have an 8 year old York system. We lost cooling due to a leak over time. Had a company come in and diagnose it's the coil with 2 leaks. They topped off the refrigerant and gave us an estimate. I come to find that parts are covered to 10 years on YORK but, I have to use a YORK authorized repair person. So, I paid this first guy his $500 for the diagnosis and top off of the R410. He told me that the YORK authorized person I choose can just reuse the same R410 in my system. I had to choose a local York authorized repair company and they tell me that to replace my coil, they need to use all new refrigerant and charge per pound accordingly. Is this true? They already ordered and received my evap coil and want to schedule but, I feel like they are BS me. Great video!
Figures first time turning the AC unit on this year (2024)and it doesn't work. Thought it was a cap, but was the condenser coil. Never got charged for that visit, because I authorized the evap.coil replacement. It's also is a York, 2 months shy of the 10 yr warranty. Part was in stock, a full aluminum coil replacement. My local AC company that I have been using for all of my AC needs, sent 2 techs to replaced the coil about a week later. There wasn't any talk about a York authorized tech to do the work.
I also have a 24 yr old R22 unit, still going strong, even in 120 degrees summers, though not so efficient. Totally unheard of such longevity, now that I see the reported life of these units is at 15 years.
Just horrible for homeowners to be replacing these ever expanding expensive units in less than 15 years. Now with the new refrigerants coming out, and companies and tech having to replace some of their equipment, I fear what the new prices will be.
The day is coming when when many homeowners will not have the money, and will have to do without air conditioning.
Great video again! Question for an expert: in a one way air to water heat pump with a TXV, do you need any check valves? I ask because when switching off the system hot refrigerant flows back into the evaporator coil instantly and don’t want to cause premature damage. Any thoughts is much appreciated
Love these videos. Keep them coming
If pressures were at 0 psi after the evaporator failed, when it is time to pull a vacuum, should the service ports be opened to pull the vacuum? Because I’m thinking that 0 psi might mean that air got down to the pump.
Thanks for teaching skill❤
Thank you for sharing your expertise!
after you do a pressure test with nitrogen, do you just open the valve to relieve the nitrogen or do you use the evacuation process to remove all the nitrogen?
😂😂😂😂😂 wow
I hope that this is not going to be trend by manufactures where you ordered a warranty evaporator coil and the new coil does not come with a drain pan.
Great work Kalos!!!Love these lessons!
Im trying to figure out why labor on a warranty part cost so much money? I think if a factory builds a unit that fails durring its warranty period they should cover the cost of replacement including labor. This is nuts the part new cost less then the labor to change it.
Do they not know we can look online and see these prices?
(May 2024) I paid $1950, two techs schedule for 1/2 the day. I have a York (9yr8 month)with a TXV, the price included a dryer, and whatever R410 refrigerant they had to add.
@@threeftr3349 this was $1950 after parts and labor?
Do you have a video that shows how the A coil is properly leveled, condensate tray is installed, & what are the clips used for? Thanks
Hi, great video with all the best practices!
Question: if the evaporator coil is below the heater which is below the fan, do you need to fully remove heater and fan to replace the coil? I was told it must be done… I am surprised about that since I would not expect it to be structural, otherwise the weight alone could damage the coil in time… any thoughts on that?
Why is it better to have the filter dryer inside? Is it to keep from being a potential leak?
I like outside because I can measure across it while looking at my manifold
I was told anytime you open the system up you add a filter dryer. Mine is in the attic next to the new evap coil
Thank you so much for your video bro.
Great video... I'm saving and subscribing!
Great vid, just one thing you didn’t mention, but put your Schrader cores back in before recharging system
I actually put them back after. Faster charge.
Ahh makes sense
Thanks for the amazing very good explained video
Thank you 🙏🏾
What would be the procedure if system is complete flat, no refrigerant? I was able to visually find the leak at the evaporator coil, do to the puddle of oil trapped in a clear tube that was covering the distributor tube that had the leak.
I would pressurize the system with nitrogen just to double check that is your only leak. In the case of a totally flat system, you will not close off the valves and pump down the condenser. Pull a vacuum on the entire system, including the condenser. This will take much longer than pulling a vacuum on just a line set and evap coil. Besides that, the procedure is identical
Does a new evaporator coil come with plastic film that you must pull off, otherwise it will block air flow? I just had a new system put into my house today and the air seems to be flowing around the A-coil instead of through it. I was not present to watch the installation.
hello recently Hvac tech put dye through my coil part of air conditioner that sits above the furnace, the dye was put in from outside in the air conditioner unit, the dye went through the coil system that sits above the furnace and came out into the clear plastic hoses that are on the side of the furnace, so the tech stated that because of that there is a leak in my coil system that needs to be replaced, i never saw the actual coil or where the leak actually is, a new coil and refridgerant would cost $4,000 a new Lennox would cost $7500, does this sound correct?should i ask for second opinion? should i get them to come back to see the actual leak?
Hi if a evaporator coil is dripping excess water almost like raining when humid out is is time for a replacement?
Sir i got a order of water chiller but instead using of copper pipe I am thinking to use plate type heat exchanger (PHE) so please tell me PHE work as effective and efficient as like copper pipes or not?
Would you recommend h-10 pro leak detector??
Thanks I want to start my own business one day
How do we check the quality after the replacement of evaporator coil?
So how do you find an evaporator leak with the coil still in the furnace plenum?
You can only reach part of the coil in that case if the rear of the plenum is removable (which mine is).
Do you recommend removing the coil to find a leak?
Isn't that a lot of wasted work and time if there is no leak?
im no expert but what they did to mine was use a dye if you see the dye on any of the runnoff plastic pipes attached to furnace or there abouts then there is probably a leak, so im told
I though if the unit was off the refrigerant stayed in the compressor. Isn't that refrigerant sound after the A\C shuts off the sound of it draining back into the compressor.
But when u working on a 150°attic. Texas summer. U just want to replace it nd get the f out of there.
We get paid to do it right 😉
My man!
You're weak. Signed, Arizona resident 😅
What would the average cost of replacing the evaporator coil?
How long does this job usually takes?
For mine, my AC company scheduled 2 techs 1/2 day, though it didn't take a 1/2 a day 3-4 hours maybe, You want two techs, because that part is bulky, and you don't want one tech trying to wrestle with it. My unit is in the attic.
Thanks for info.
I was with a tech one day up on a roof of a restaurant and found no gas in system. Evap was when pressure tested which he repaired using solder etc . Then he vacuumed and started recharging but when he turned on the compressor the motor seized or was already seized. He said the customer would have likely kept resetting the system when it was on low pressure and this would have been the reason. What is your opinion why compressor seized ???
He most likely seized the compressor
Would a hard start have got compressor going here
What i needed out of this video was how to get the evap out of a horizontal and put in the new one. Great info but This isn't exactly a step by step.
I have not found any company in Northern Texas, Dallas area to do any of this. They come out and then show you readings from the condenser unit, never doing the soap test you show, condemning the evaporator coil as you state. I have yet to find any company to do this and we have several properties. Frustrated to no end at the lack of professionalism and the desire to just upsell you equipment. Some want extra money for dye tests.
You can tell a system has a leak with just checking the refrigerant pressures lol. Not where but definitely can tell if its leaking
I have no idea what any of this is talking about but I just got quoted $8,000 for a coil replacement so here I am
lol funny, few days ago, quoted $4,000 to just replace the coil, or $7500 for a new Lennox 10 year warranty
If you pump the system down with the liquid line dryer in the condenser and close both valves, why is it necessary to replace the liquid line dryer? I don’t see how it’s exposed to air at the point.
Agreed
Dont understand how to remove nitrogen after purge is done
Came here to DIY….F THAT hahaha. I’m going to have to bite the bullet.
Im in the middle of one.
@drew3184 what did it cost you after labor and parts?
@@nritchie7207 $4k had them replace everything, coil, outside unit, new lines. Made most sense as mine was from the 70s.
@@drew3184 shoot, with the outside unit too that ain't too shabby
@@nritchie7207 I knew a guy
Muito bom as experiências
what i've learned: Hire an HVAC technician
We spent $8K for new system. Just the evaporator coil and the condenser. They did not inspect the blower or the drain lines. We are smelling something sweet every time the ac goes which I suspect refrigerant leak. The ac guy came and used a leak detector device and didn't find anything. The smell is sickening. Are those detectors 100% accurate?
I'm not a HVAC guy but I will fix my ac because I can do anything. I have a pinhole leak in the coil and it's behind the defuser mesh.
So howd it go?
@@nritchie7207 very well. 8hrs in the attic in south Texas summer, but the ac is fixed. I think sediment in the inner pan and on the condensers was the main problem.
@@OfAHigherClass good to hear bud. I think ive decided to pay someone else. 😅
The A frame evaporator coil was leaking r-22. We were smelling something sweet every time the ac went on. We bought a brand new unit. Condenser and A frame evap coil. We are still smelling something sweet only when the ac goes on! The installer came back and tested the coil with a leak detector. He only tested the front of the coil. Never checked the back or the sides. Now what?
Top
Both ur suction (points at liquid line) both ur liquid (points at suction line).
Don’t try to pump down units that are equipped with micro channel coils.
Actual video of each procedure would be invaluable compared to listing steps with cartoon images and just talking.
Not one AC place where I live will replace the coils! They always always recommend total AC replacement! Even if the system is fine, they see the date and recommend replacement! No offense, but I've lost all trust in my local guys!
They charging $4.6k to replace everything 😢
Love the show - but honestly this is turning me off - and I'm about to turn it off.
Boo
Coment
Yeah let me just take apart the blower and clean it after I just got done with a coil swap out… 🤣