I’ve been doing the same thing y’all earth and all. Made them deep like that for the queen cells as the guy says below. Cut down some wood stock yesterday so I was ready to make more today. Up in Kentucky. Still cold but getting ready!
Yes , I use the wood preservative treatment. I first pre soak each board then assemble my boxes . I may not be in in 10 years . But God Willing my boxes will. Nus. Swarm Trap 8 & 10 frame . Lids. Thanks Be Safe God Bless. Joe
Very good Chicago Joe. I am releasing a video on making bottom boards next and I just realized I forgot to dip my woodwork in Tall Earth. I appreciate you commenting. Have a good evening.
I believe I would still use gloves. I think the more you protect your hands from substances that might not be friendly to our porous skin.Good video. You mentioned. These days it seems materials are so expensive the builders conserve their own scraps. Where do you like to get scraps?
Hi John, Sorry for the delayed reply. Here is a lot of construction going on in my area so I usually ask the builders for some scrap. They are pretty generous with it.
I thought the idea of using the ECO sealer is so that you don't have to paint. Paint does not let moisture through and therefore the wood can hold the moisture from inside the hive causing it to rot sooner. On the other hand the ECO sealer allows the moisture to pass, allowing the wood to dry.
Interesting Greg. My thought is that the plywood ends for sure should be sealed with paint. An elderly gentleman who has been doing his beehives this way for many years taught me. I have been making my boxes this way for a couple of years now and I am happy with painting over the Tall Earth. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Been making mine that way for years. Mine are a little deeper as well so when they build comb on the bottom I use it for cell punching queens so far it's working great.👍👍
2*8 is a little tight for 5 and heavy! I have done it though. This year I am trying the plywood nucs where you get 4 boxes per sheet. I bought 5 sheets at $27.50 each
Inside space (width) needed for 5 frames is 7½", or slightly more if you want room to accommodate queen cages, swarm cells, etc. The rabbets (not dados) cut in this video for the frame rests are too large, not a proper fit, as seen by the end to end slop in frame fit. No problem with cutting slightly deeper rabbets (¾" instead of ⅝") to create head space above the top bars if desired, especially if using a flat top without a rim. However ¾" is far too long for the rabbet, allowing the frames to slide back and forth and potentially crushing bees between the end wall and the end bars. Stick to the prescribed rabbet length of ⅜" or maybe add a smidgen more for propolis buildup.
Hi Bruce. Have you ever considered using 2x8 for an entire 5-fram NUC? I'm wondering how the weight would compare with a regular 10-frame box full of bees and resources.
i made it the way you said with 22 in sides and the standard langstroff frame falls thru if correct the sides should be 21 and 5/16 would that be correct
Hi Mike, that is strange. The frames I use seem to work out all right. Did you use the 2X8 inch boards for your end pieces? Please do feel free to tweak it to make it work for you. All the best.
Hi Bruce, why do u brad nail first after glueing and then you nail it... Why not glue and then pilot hole and nail? Thx I am a novice and am learning from you. Thx Dave from WV
Hi David, basically I glue then use brad nails to hold the wood as the glue dries. I nail or screw them afterwards for extra strength. Drilling pilot holes is a good idea 👍.
No, at this point I am only using five and ten frame hives. (Ten frames deeps and mediums for honey production and five frames deeps to make more bees with). I have videos about building both these styles and it would be pretty easy to get the measurements to build eight-frame equipment, good luck.
Hi BlackBerry, The sides are 10 inch tall by 20 inch long. For the ends I use 2x8 boards cut to 10 inches: The actual width comes to 7.5 inches which is perfect for a five-frame box. Just cut a quarter inch dado at the top to make the frame rest. Thanks for watching.
@@bruceandhisbees1770 In the video you said 22 inch sides, now 20 inch . I had the same results Mike had. Wish I had read the comments before I built boxes. My Bad!
The Lids are suck the moisture happens to me I kill bees because I am going to use 3/4 inch lids from now and paint 2 or more coats or and aluminum foil on
It is definitely the time of year to prep equipment and get ready. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Castle, I appreciate you!
@@bruceandhisbees1770 Great folks in the Beekeeping community.
Great way to do nucs. Will do some of this. Thanks for uploading.
Nice video, learned a lot from this, thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video!
Thank you Sir
I’ve been doing the same thing y’all earth and all. Made them deep like that for the queen cells as the guy says below. Cut down some wood stock yesterday so I was ready to make more today. Up in Kentucky. Still cold but getting ready!
Excellent Collegeguy, I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Thanks for your help!
Good job with the video 12:27
It seems all I do is build and paint boxes LoL 👍 thanks good health and God bless 👍
Thank you Houston, God Bless and good health to you too!
Brilliant!
what are your cuts and measurements Bruce? Thanks for the video.
Yes , I use the wood preservative treatment. I first pre soak each board then assemble my boxes . I may not be in in 10 years . But God Willing my boxes will. Nus. Swarm Trap 8 & 10 frame . Lids. Thanks Be Safe God Bless.
Joe
Very good Chicago Joe. I am releasing a video on making bottom boards next and I just realized I forgot to dip my woodwork in Tall Earth. I appreciate you commenting. Have a good evening.
Вас цікаво слухати, дякую Вам за відео. Привіт з Украіни, Киів
Nice job.
Thank you! Cheers!
I believe I would still use gloves. I think the more you protect your hands from substances that might not be friendly to our porous skin.Good video. You mentioned. These days it seems materials are so expensive the builders conserve their own scraps. Where do you like to get scraps?
Hi John, Sorry for the delayed reply. Here is a lot of construction going on in my area so I usually ask the builders for some scrap. They are pretty generous with it.
I thought the idea of using the ECO sealer is so that you don't have to paint. Paint does not let moisture through and therefore the wood can hold the moisture from inside the hive causing it to rot sooner. On the other hand the ECO sealer allows the moisture to pass, allowing the wood to dry.
Interesting Greg. My thought is that the plywood ends for sure should be sealed with paint. An elderly gentleman who has been doing his beehives this way for many years taught me. I have been making my boxes this way for a couple of years now and I am happy with painting over the Tall Earth. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Been making mine that way for years. Mine are a little deeper as well so when they build comb on the bottom I use it for cell punching queens so far it's working great.👍👍
Thanks E&M, I make a separate bottom board to give them more room at the bottom. I appreciate you commenting 🙂.
I love your work and iam in Uganda. I have local beehives. I need to practice your experience.
Excellent Silvert, I have had some good experiences in Kampala and Jinja.
Thank you pretty much. We need to keep in touch as knowledge sharing is concerned. Cooperation brings happiness!
Hi! It is good jop sir.
Your euquipments are good.
It seems you are profesional on wooden products
Thank you for watching and commenting, Sir!
2*8 is a little tight for 5 and heavy! I have done it though.
This year I am trying the plywood nucs where you get 4 boxes per sheet. I bought 5 sheets at $27.50 each
Inside space (width) needed for 5 frames is 7½", or slightly more if you want room to accommodate queen cages, swarm cells, etc.
The rabbets (not dados) cut in this video for the frame rests are too large, not a proper fit, as seen by the end to end slop in frame fit. No problem with cutting slightly deeper rabbets (¾" instead of ⅝") to create head space above the top bars if desired, especially if using a flat top without a rim.
However ¾" is far too long for the rabbet, allowing the frames to slide back and forth and potentially crushing bees between the end wall and the end bars. Stick to the prescribed rabbet length of ⅜" or maybe add a smidgen more for propolis buildup.
Hi Bruce. I could not find the video where you show us how do you make the bottoms.
Hi Gene, Thanks for watching. You can find that video here: ruclips.net/video/0OgoaJUXI1g/видео.html
Hi Bruce. Have you ever considered using 2x8 for an entire 5-fram NUC? I'm wondering how the weight would compare with a regular 10-frame box full of bees and resources.
Well, I may be worth it for the insulation but because of the weight and my standard tops/bottoms wouldn’t fit, I probably won’t try it.
@@bruceandhisbees1770 I'm going to build a five-frame for fun. I'll let you know what I discover.
@@cochechohoneybees1060 Check out my older video about Resource Hives. All the Best 😎
i made it the way you said with 22 in sides and the standard langstroff frame falls thru if correct the sides should be 21 and 5/16 would that be correct
Hi Mike, that is strange. The frames I use seem to work out all right. Did you use the 2X8 inch boards for your end pieces? Please do feel free to tweak it to make it work for you. All the best.
21 5/16 long sides works perfectly!
Hi Bruce, why do u brad nail first after glueing and then you nail it... Why not glue and then pilot hole and nail? Thx I am a novice and am learning from you.
Thx
Dave from WV
Hi David, basically I glue then use brad nails to hold the wood as the glue dries. I nail or screw them afterwards for extra strength. Drilling pilot holes is a good idea 👍.
Do you make 8 frame deeps or supers?... if so do you have a video? Thx
No, at this point I am only using five and ten frame hives. (Ten frames deeps and mediums for honey production and five frames deeps to make more bees with). I have videos about building both these styles and it would be pretty easy to get the measurements to build eight-frame equipment, good luck.
The big piece is 10 inch tall by 20 inch long.
The small piece is 10 inch tall by how many inch long ?
Thanks
Hi BlackBerry, The sides are 10 inch tall by 20 inch long. For the ends I use 2x8 boards cut to 10 inches: The actual width comes to 7.5 inches which is perfect for a five-frame box. Just cut a quarter inch dado at the top to make the frame rest. Thanks for watching.
@@bruceandhisbees1770 In the video you said 22 inch sides, now 20 inch . I had the same results Mike had. Wish I had read the comments before I built boxes. My Bad!
The Lids are suck the moisture happens to me I kill bees because I am going to use 3/4 inch lids from now and paint 2 or more coats or and aluminum foil on
Good morning
Good morning to you too,
You lost me at the way-too-long glue application part.