Doddy is incredible. It’s scary how much I’ve learned from watching these videos over the past few years. He talks at an expert level but keeps it simple for most cats to understand. Unreal knowledge. The DoddFather!
Yeah you wouldn’t believe the shock I felt when I measured a rim for a wheel build and it measured out around 22.5” and I thought I had the wrong size all these years. Then I measured all the 26” wheels I had and realized a 26” wheel does not measure 26”. Lack of standards is the root of most confusion in the bike industry.
Easiest way to isolate the headset is by turning the bar 90º and either rocking it or torquing the bar up and down. This eliminates both the fork bushing play as well as brake bolts or pads.
Excellent commentary, good call on the lock out. I have recently discovered, just how well a proper suspension tune can eliminate the need for locking out. I can pedal out off saddle up or downhill, and still have all the suppleness I expect. Without bobbing or feeling squishy. Also I found by going up 20mm in fork travel, helps the balance between progressive and plush. I'm not buying into the coil shock thing. We had them in the 80/90's and they only really helped take the edge off. Rebound rate was always a issue.
My 36's had already been replaced under warranty. Fox covers them for up to 18months i believe but prepare to wait 2 months for a turn around in aus. (Triple crown forks look so good now 😍)
the big problem with bike tire sizes, this that most people understand size marking for auto tires that use the out side dia. of the rim. now for bike tires the number you see on the tire is the out side dia of the tire, a 700c tire is 700 mm out side dia a 29er is 29in in dia both use the same size rim a 622 mm tire mounting ring. Now you have different tire manufactures and they will be different. If you have a 29er that is 2.25 in. and a tire that is 2.35 the. 2.35 will be larger in dia than a 2.25
Fork? It is a tricky thing to feel...best to have preload so loose its v obvious, tighten 1/8 (yes, 1/8 NOT 1/4) turn at a time until the obvious movement goes, then tighten ¼ turn more. Check wheel turns freely (if tilt/lean bike, wheel can turn under its own weight) and thats it. Align bars, tighten stem. Boom. Any other play should be not headset.
I disagree with the lockout not making you faster. When you lock out you transfer more energy to the pedals and not into the suspension. Especially if you stand up. I’m open to being proven wrong though so if there’s a video or other experiments anywhere, point me that way. Keep up the good work.
Ur correct in general...does depend on terrain, e.g. a technical climb maybe more efficient open, but Fire road etc. Locked is more efficient (more speed for watts same energy input).
A slippery or technical climb may be more efficient with the suspension open. If one is locked out and compromising traction, they may have to pedal more carefully and with less pressure to make the climb. I stopped using my switch and haven't noticed the sustained climbs being any more difficult. I'm on a 153/160 bike.
@GMBN Tech... US bicycle tarrifs are based on wheel size. Initially the major US bicycle manufacters wanted a tarrif on all imported 26" wheeled mtb's. Then they moved manufactering to Taiwan anyway because it was more profitable. So in order to get around the 26" wheel size US tarrif they went to the 29" and 650b wheel sizes. My feeling is that once the 26" wheel tarrif goes away they will suddenly rediscover the 26" wheel size because it will take less material to build a bicycle and works better with the 1x drivetrain.
@@rupedog ... I don't know I can make a pretty strong case engineering and economics case for returning to 26" wheeled mountain bikes. Lets make a list: -Stronger and lighter rims. -Lower-cost rims because of less material being used. -Lighter tires. -Lower-cost tires because less material is being used. -Shorter stiffer spokes with an improved spoke angle. -Lighter cassettes and closer ratio cassettes because you don't need the extra-large cassette cogs. -Overall you get a stronger, stiffer, lighter, and cheaper wheel that takes less effort to accelerate. -Lighter, stiffer, bicycle frames, because the frame designer has to make fewer compromises for the larger wheels. -Lighter, shorter, suspension forks. -Since the bicycles are lighter and more compact they will fit into a smaller box so their shipping cost is also reduced -The only good argument for 29ers is they roll over obstacles on the downhill better than 26ers.
This one's very nice one content doddy.. Pardon me but you versus the bush was so epic. I always repeat watching that gmbn presenter crashes episode. The way you exit through the bush and whilst still airborne, you started laughing.. Godbless and stay safe
chain dropping on cassette when backpedalling, it could be the freehub,which is further put cassette further in on on some older hubs, and having extreme chain line. but the design of the ramps on the cogs of the cassette can make a difference, for example on Hope pro 4 with perfect chain-line with XT M8000 46T it does not drop with 34T chainring, but with Sun Race 46T it does, but swapping to 32T it does not, and 11.50 it still does not drop. this is the setup I run on my new bike. so chainring size also plays a role. I have some videos showing this chain drop.
I don't get the whole fit thing. Maybe it's because I come from BMX with very short geometry (mine is using a 50mm stem on a 533mm TT and 750mm bars) but I'm comfortable on XS all the way up to XL, sure the bikes feel different but I'm able to ride happily enough.
hi daddy. I hope that you are in good health, wealth and waist. I like your example of the polo and transit van. The way you explained it put me at ease because I have always had a nervous disposition when it comes it to driving. Much appreciated.
I recommend marking rotor screws with marker pen ...take a picture... then you can see if there's been any screw movement. Saves breaking a loctited seal when checking.
Yeah thats one way! But if you dont want to draw on your nice Ti scews, the 1 drop of loctite (normal strengt!!! If you dont wanna drill them out🙈) will keep them from moving. Its easy to check if the rotor is loose, stand over the bike and grab the front/back brake and puch the bike back n forth a bit while looking at the hub and rotor, if the hub or the whole wheel moves a bit while the rotor is still, its gotten loose.
A true 650b setup was traditionally around 26.5". A larger volume tyre bulks it out a little perhaps. We can argue wheel sizes for days, but a difference in radius less than the width of your thumb is hardly worth buying a new bike for.
Hi, You are mistaken. In all 1x drive ( no matter if it is boost or not ) with proper chainline ( suggested by Shimano ) You wont get straight line when the chain is in the middle sprocket of cassette. ( with 12 sp cassette there is no middle BTW ) Straight line would be if Your chain is a little closer to the smalest sprocket then in the middle of cassette. Thats why the chain can go off when you pedaling backwards at 1x1 combination. The reason is that Simano had to choose what is the best chainline for 1x drive ( 2x drive or 3x drive ) when 2-piece crankset came. And they chose wrong. The best and optimum chainline would be about 2,5 mm smaller that they did. But sometimes there would have been problems ( very wide tire or 34,9 mm seat tube with front derailleur - sometimes there were problems with smaller chainline - it depends on specific frameset, tire, and sometimes front derailleur ) So this very few exceptions made Shimano to chose wrong ( a little bigger ) chainline. /edit Long time ago, there were 47,5 and 50 mm suggested chainline for 3x drive. Because of 47,5 mm was better but sometimes it could bring problems. So they have decided to keep with 50 mm when 2piece crankset came. ( for 3 x drive ) For 2x drive it is 48,8 mm ( The exeption is fc-m665 crankset 46,8 mm but as I said sometimes there were problems with wide tire or front derailleur ) and later on there were only 48,8 mm for 2x drive ( old 2x xtr - I dont remember a code at the moment ( fc-m980 - edit ) - had also a little smaller chainline ) For 1x drive the chainline is 50,4 mm ( fc-m7000 has 50 mm ) and for boost crancksets it is 3 mm more ( but rear hubs also has 3 mm bigger chainline so it has no matter to the chain )
Yeah right, the XC pros like to carry extra lockouts, cables and levers for the fun of it! Just because their bike's geometry is not very XCish? Of course the lockout makes a difference, the less energy that goes into the shock (and then heat) the more energy goes in the wheels propelling you upwards
I've tightened my pedals and greased them and I tightened and tightened but still.. click .. click.. click.. every time I peddle, its new, a schwinn, I got it from walmart, could that be the problem??? what is it?
Hi Doddy, I've just installed a full SRAM XO1 Eagle Boost groupset onto a 2019, Specialized Stumpjumper Expert 650B. When I shift up the cassette, from the 42T cog to the 50T, the chain does not always sit properly between the 'teeth' of the sprocket. Visually, you can see that the 'teeth' of the sprocket are 'hitting' the rollers and holding off the chain from seating properly onto the sproket. The other 'tell tale', as you would expect, is that the drivetrain doesn't sound right when this happens. Usually, a few shifts up and down the block, and it sorts itself out. However, I'd rather this not happen at all. Any ideas or pointers? Thanks. #askgmbn.
Doddmeister...Question: Myth or fact.... Will upgrading to a significantly longer travel fork damage a frame? I think not . I think it would take a considerably longer lever to effect that kind of damage. I measured some forks I have lying around, the length difference between a 110mm and a 160 mm is only 25mm . Factor in a bit of offset in crown and axle . Its probably down to the manufacturers intended use for that bike. XC or a bloody good Sam Pilgrimaging !
My chain kept coming off, turned out, 2 links were broken, one on one side, one on the other and just one link apart, so it was pulling to one side and slipping off just as it reached the front set. Needed a new chain the damage done because rear mech was knocked into chainset. Check your chain links, both sides.
My chain comes off fairly often, and I put it down to jumping too high (sometimes higher than 8") and shredding too hard. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it!
Yes!!! but when all you have is a XC bike then putting a short stem and rad tires and jumping that bad boy is 100% the right attitude to have (and you can mug off yeti-owning-Sunday lunch-riding-dentists with your blatant in their face steezyness on a "not made for that usage blah blah blah" bike), Doddy man remember your roots, we don't all get showered in free modern enduro bikes every day haha.
Quarter back peddle and my new bikes change up a gear and this makes chain slip when putting pressure down on tec climbs, painful. I didn't expect this from expensive bikes.
get it set up properly at your LBS, i could just be cable stretch which happens to all new cables and will alter the tension affecting your gear indexing. specialist kit has tighter parameters and needs fine tuning, an 8 speed has a lot of slop compared to 12 speed.
I'm just starting mtb ,,I have a 27.5 Rockrider st 900,120mm rockshox silver air forks and the back is a x-fusion pro L 120mm air shock i paid £750 for it new,it has sram (xx1) 1x11 gear system,but the gears are Microshift gears and I have tektro brakes hydraulic 180mm front brake 160mm back brake,should I change anything??I'm defo changing the gears i want sram or shimano but I'm new to MTB,any tips helpful thank you
Even better, these outside diameter based standards like 700c and 650b, were important at one point a long time ago because the brakes pressed on the OUTSIDE DIAMETER OF THE TIRE.
I have a 1x12 sram eagle. Everytime I backpedal in the granny gear to avoid pedal strikes my chain falls down. My lbs said there's nothing I can do about it because of the chain line. 😞
i would say 90% of the time technique will make more of a difference to how fast you are than gear ever will ... unless your bike is not working properly
Doddy, Im tall and mostly all leg, short torso/arms. I have a 2018 Jeffsy XL(biggest size in that model) and i have to get the seatpost jacked up sky high to get proper leg extension, so my saddle is much higher than my stem/bars. I have 50mm rise bars coming but what brand/model of bike should i be looking at next time. I guess i need soemthing with a tall seat tube and short top tube. thanks! #askgmbn Pic of bike here: imgur.com/dYnwfA1
12:11 Hey Doddy have you heard about Sprindex (sprindex.com)? It promises to give you the ability to easily adjust your spring rate. What do you think about this product? Could this be a solution to weight changes?
Hey, I'm new to mountain biking but I don't think there's better for weight. If you're heavier you can just add more pressure to an air fork. If you have a coil fork you can tighten it. I don't know if that helped, have a good dau
08:00 omfg you have no idea how much I struggle with people about this one ,they just can't comprehend that its normal for the chain to fall if you pedal backwards on the highest gear,now I'm gonna show them this video every time they come asking me to fix this ,I have noticed that mostly rich kids tend to do this like why tf would you pedal backwards while climbing anyways? Lol
#askgmbntech whats ur take on dnm mtb suspension I know dnm do good pit bike suspension also I have a 2014 rockshox Monarch RT3 plus 200mmX51mm travel upgrade from a dnm 165mmx36.5mm Air shock so the Monarch has gave me a wheel travel of 170mm and changed front fork from Sr suntour coil fork 100mm to a set of fox float rp 32 f series 140mm travel air fork tapered with a hope 1-1/8 inch to 1.5" straight steerer adapter and using original top bearing and cup I've tuned to my weight and riding style but small bump sensitivity is crap will a coil shock solve this and what brand of coil shock brand eye to eye 200mm max either 51/57mm travel and cant fault the forks handles everything I throw at them
Yes, can still get some bushing play tho, and maybe wheel ir axle-hub play...but removes brake play and most fork...BUT issue is that your tightening the preload so ur stem clams MUST be loose...so hard to turn wheel and hold there. Not impossible, but tricky.
The last point seems a bit incorrect. Riding without a lockout means you are also losing part of the energy from the pedal stroke to compressing the suspension which means you are going to be having to work harder for the same result or be going a bit slower. For a fit and strong rider this is not really going to be an issue but for lesser riders it can make a difference.
I disagree. For a fit rider, it's easier to shift weight around to overcome some of the surface bumps. A less fit rider, (like me) tends to just stay sat and let the rear suspension work to absorb obstacles like small rocks that would otherwise be a considerable resistance to the path of the back wheel. I have a local route with a rocky climb I've never quite cleared. When I had an air shock with a lockout, I would get further up with the shock in the pedal (mid) setting than with it fully locked out. Just my opinion.
I love the idea of demo'ing bikes. I went to a Trek store in 2022 and they had no bikes to demo. Not one. And they really weren't concerned about it. Was it pandemic inventory problems? Dunno. At that moment, I thought maybe they were pompous about it, thinking Trek is so awesome there's no need. Maybe I'll go check now and see if anything has changed.
Dear Doddy, have to disagree on the lockout portion of the clip. Any pedaling induced suspension movement is wasting your power. Altering your pedaling technique does not magically change the bike's kinematics. Place a potentiometer on the rocker link or the airspring shaft and you will see that regardless of pedaling technique, power is wasted loading the suspension. "Smoother" pedaling just means you're loading the shock with less intensity and perhaps longer duration. Shifting your weight will alter the sag which in turn will affect the anti-squat. Pedaling technique will NOT. With respect to the lockout, while it does not prevent the waste of pedaling energy (as it is not a true mechanical lockout of the spring), it will go a long way in helping maintain sag for optimum anti-squat etc...
i agree with Doddy, if you pedal efficiently, especially with clips, you pull and push at the same time on either crank so the force you apply over all is evened out which on rough terrain is easier to do with open suspension as you can keep that cadence consistent and not stall on obstacles as your suspension soaks them up, meaning you exert less energy over all. its only efficient to use lock outs on smooth trails/road. where the suspension has no benefit.
Need to grease the cups, crown race, all outside surfaces of bearings, spacers, top cap...all of it! Also helps prolong bearings as keeps more water and dirt out.
Hey doddy. I have a large firebird 29, and i just reversed the stem on it to make it easier to maneuver with super short reach. I like the stock bike when riding saddle down, but when i do ride with the saddle up on flat and medium terrain, reach is too far out. My question is, is it mechanically safe to reverse the stem? Here is the link to my bike. ruclips.net/video/h4pYiYVYeYU/видео.html
mechanically sound, but has so many draw backs from ergonomics, weight transfer, stability, etc, try moving your saddle as far forward as you can (with in the recommended parameters, likely printed on the rails), raise your bar/stem, buy height rise bars and/or with greater sweep, this will effectively decrease the reach.
@@rupedog Never bothered myself. Hand tight has always seen me right. If you're repairing bikes for a living then insurance against liability is a factor. Machines used to work just fine, with correct setting up, long before the torque wrench was a tool.
My first mountain bike was a $400 hard tail from a sporting goods store. Lasted me 5 years before the drive train fell apart and I ended up upgrading to a better bike. You can also find good deals in used bikes if you want a budget $500 used bike.
Me too, but i find its usually most effective at matching my speed when im halfway down the cassette and thus, not really having to worry about the chain coming off because of bad chainline
i just smacked myself in the head, hard...in retrospect, it's pretty obvious that dry lube is for dry *conditions*, not that it's, like, a powder or something...😜😒
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Doddy is incredible. It’s scary how much I’ve learned from watching these videos over the past few years. He talks at an expert level but keeps it simple for most cats to understand. Unreal knowledge. The DoddFather!
Yeah you wouldn’t believe the shock I felt when I measured a rim for a wheel build and it measured out around 22.5” and I thought I had the wrong size all these years. Then I measured all the 26” wheels I had and realized a 26” wheel does not measure 26”. Lack of standards is the root of most confusion in the bike industry.
I swear this video was a life saver. I took my bike apart and couldn't find out what was wrong with my headset but it was brake pads
Don't forget rotor bolts. They can work loose and cause the rotor to move
As ever Doddy, informative and straightforward a great watch for they less well informed.
Oh man the headset feeling loose but actually isn't has driven me mad soo many times...
Easiest way to isolate the headset is by turning the bar 90º and either rocking it or torquing the bar up and down. This eliminates both the fork bushing play as well as brake bolts or pads.
Brilliant tip, saves lots of time and effort
thats exactly how I do it
Excellent commentary, good call on the lock out. I have recently discovered, just how well a proper suspension tune can eliminate the need for locking out. I can pedal out off saddle up or downhill, and still have all the suppleness I expect. Without bobbing or feeling squishy. Also I found by going up 20mm in fork travel, helps the balance between progressive and plush. I'm not buying into the coil shock thing. We had them in the 80/90's and they only really helped take the edge off. Rebound rate was always a issue.
Although i work full time in a shop, I still learned a few things watching this! Keep up the good work!
Loose (CS) crown steerer didnt get mentioned as a common issue that seems like a headset, with long travel single crown forks.
2BORED Fox 36 had huge problems with this. On harsh strikes you’d get a massive popping noise.
This was bad on one of my factory 36 CSU, not a cheap fix if you aren't the first owner
My 36's had already been replaced under warranty. Fox covers them for up to 18months i believe but prepare to wait 2 months for a turn around in aus.
(Triple crown forks look so good now 😍)
7:39 Well, the industry is an idiot.
Thanks for clearing up the wheel measurement confusion! 👍🏽
4:06 So is this confirmation that Doddy handbrake turns transit vans?
Lol dude xD
the big problem with bike tire sizes, this that most people understand size marking for auto tires that use the out side dia. of the rim. now for bike tires the number you see on the tire is the out side dia of the tire, a 700c tire is 700 mm out side dia a 29er is 29in in dia both use the same size rim a 622 mm tire mounting ring. Now you have different tire manufactures and they will be different. If you have a 29er that is 2.25 in. and a tire that is 2.35 the. 2.35 will be larger in dia than a 2.25
I was convinced my headset was moving once and it was the shock bushing 😂
Fork? It is a tricky thing to feel...best to have preload so loose its v obvious, tighten 1/8 (yes, 1/8 NOT 1/4) turn at a time until the obvious movement goes, then tighten ¼ turn more. Check wheel turns freely (if tilt/lean bike, wheel can turn under its own weight) and thats it. Align bars, tighten stem. Boom. Any other play should be not headset.
Rupert Wenn no the pivot on the rear shock was moving which translated to movement in the frame.
can you do a comparison of oval chainring vs regular chainring, please?
I disagree with the lockout not making you faster. When you lock out you transfer more energy to the pedals and not into the suspension. Especially if you stand up. I’m open to being proven wrong though so if there’s a video or other experiments anywhere, point me that way. Keep up the good work.
Ur correct in general...does depend on terrain, e.g. a technical climb maybe more efficient open, but Fire road etc. Locked is more efficient (more speed for watts same energy input).
A slippery or technical climb may be more efficient with the suspension open. If one is locked out and compromising traction, they may have to pedal more carefully and with less pressure to make the climb. I stopped using my switch and haven't noticed the sustained climbs being any more difficult. I'm on a 153/160 bike.
@GMBN Tech... US bicycle tarrifs are based on wheel size. Initially the major US bicycle manufacters wanted a tarrif on all imported 26" wheeled mtb's. Then they moved manufactering to Taiwan anyway because it was more profitable. So in order to get around the 26" wheel size US tarrif they went to the 29" and 650b wheel sizes. My feeling is that once the 26" wheel tarrif goes away they will suddenly rediscover the 26" wheel size because it will take less material to build a bicycle and works better with the 1x drivetrain.
26 isnt coming back for trail sorry. And 27.5 will gradually disappear. They will be for dj and kids bikes
Is this for real?
Is this actually a fact?
@@ElliotFlowers ... yes, it is expensive to retool factories for bigger wheel sizes, companies wouldn't do it unless it was profitable to do so.
@@rupedog ... I don't know I can make a pretty strong case engineering and economics case for returning to 26" wheeled mountain bikes. Lets make a list:
-Stronger and lighter rims.
-Lower-cost rims because of less material being used.
-Lighter tires.
-Lower-cost tires because less material is being used.
-Shorter stiffer spokes with an improved spoke angle.
-Lighter cassettes and closer ratio cassettes because you don't need the extra-large cassette cogs.
-Overall you get a stronger, stiffer, lighter, and cheaper wheel that takes less effort to accelerate.
-Lighter, stiffer, bicycle frames, because the frame designer has to make fewer compromises for the larger wheels.
-Lighter, shorter, suspension forks.
-Since the bicycles are lighter and more compact they will fit into a smaller box so their shipping cost is also reduced
-The only good argument for 29ers is they roll over obstacles on the downhill better than 26ers.
This one's very nice one content doddy.. Pardon me but you versus the bush was so epic. I always repeat watching that gmbn presenter crashes episode. The way you exit through the bush and whilst still airborne, you started laughing.. Godbless and stay safe
Loved this video. Lots of great information! Thanks, Doddy.
Awesome breakdown , informative and helpful. Love the show fellas ,roll on.
Thanks Diddy, another great video.
I loved the demo your bike tip, that's what I did and I couldn't be happier!
chain dropping on cassette when backpedalling, it could be the freehub,which is further put cassette further in on on some older hubs, and having extreme chain line.
but the design of the ramps on the cogs of the cassette can make a difference, for example on Hope pro 4 with perfect chain-line with XT M8000 46T it does not drop with 34T chainring, but with Sun Race 46T it does, but swapping to 32T it does not, and 11.50 it still does not drop. this is the setup I run on my new bike.
so chainring size also plays a role.
I have some videos showing this chain drop.
Not all brands/shops will let you demo. Some I talked to said they used to but ended up with a dozen newish bikes sitting around, taking up space.
I don't get the whole fit thing. Maybe it's because I come from BMX with very short geometry (mine is using a 50mm stem on a 533mm TT and 750mm bars) but I'm comfortable on XS all the way up to XL, sure the bikes feel different but I'm able to ride happily enough.
how do i know if my bike is falling, linear, or rising rate design???
hi daddy. I hope that you are in good health, wealth and waist. I like your example of the polo and transit van. The way you explained it put me at ease because I have always had a nervous disposition when it comes it to driving. Much appreciated.
You might want to fix your spelling of doddy
@@benasquith26 nah its how he intended it haha.
The rotors can get loose and it will feel like the headset are loose aswell
I recommend marking rotor screws with marker pen ...take a picture... then you can see if there's been any screw movement. Saves breaking a loctited seal when checking.
Yeah thats one way! But if you dont want to draw on your nice Ti scews, the 1 drop of loctite (normal strengt!!! If you dont wanna drill them out🙈) will keep them from moving.
Its easy to check if the rotor is loose, stand over the bike and grab the front/back brake and puch the bike back n forth a bit while looking at the hub and rotor, if the hub or the whole wheel moves a bit while the rotor is still, its gotten loose.
True enough.. ;)
Then you’re not really checking the bolts. It’s pretty easy to just put a T25 on em and check
who misplaced the wrench? there's one missing right next to his head on the wall...... can't be unseen... that's all I see now
A true 650b setup was traditionally around 26.5". A larger volume tyre bulks it out a little perhaps. We can argue wheel sizes for days, but a difference in radius less than the width of your thumb is hardly worth buying a new bike for.
Headstock loosenes can also be fork triple failing. Tube to triple joint
Thanks for the clear explanations and guidance as usual Doddy 😎
Hi, You are mistaken. In all 1x drive ( no matter if it is boost or not ) with proper chainline ( suggested by Shimano ) You wont get straight line when the chain is in the middle sprocket of cassette. ( with 12 sp cassette there is no middle BTW ) Straight line would be if Your chain is a little closer to the smalest sprocket then in the middle of cassette. Thats why the chain can go off when you pedaling backwards at 1x1 combination. The reason is that Simano had to choose what is the best chainline for 1x drive ( 2x drive or 3x drive ) when 2-piece crankset came. And they chose wrong. The best and optimum chainline would be about 2,5 mm smaller that they did. But sometimes there would have been problems ( very wide tire or 34,9 mm seat tube with front derailleur - sometimes there were problems with smaller chainline - it depends on specific frameset, tire, and sometimes front derailleur ) So this very few exceptions made Shimano to chose wrong ( a little bigger ) chainline.
/edit
Long time ago, there were 47,5 and 50 mm suggested chainline for 3x drive. Because of 47,5 mm was better but sometimes it could bring problems. So they have decided to keep with 50 mm when 2piece crankset came. ( for 3 x drive ) For 2x drive it is 48,8 mm ( The exeption is fc-m665 crankset 46,8 mm but as I said sometimes there were problems with wide tire or front derailleur ) and later on there were only 48,8 mm for 2x drive ( old 2x xtr - I dont remember a code at the moment ( fc-m980 - edit ) - had also a little smaller chainline ) For 1x drive the chainline is 50,4 mm ( fc-m7000 has 50 mm ) and for boost crancksets it is 3 mm more ( but rear hubs also has 3 mm bigger chainline so it has no matter to the chain )
Yeah right, the XC pros like to carry extra lockouts, cables and levers for the fun of it! Just because their bike's geometry is not very XCish? Of course the lockout makes a difference, the less energy that goes into the shock (and then heat) the more energy goes in the wheels propelling you upwards
I've tightened my pedals and greased them and I tightened and tightened but still.. click .. click.. click.. every time I peddle, its new, a schwinn, I got it from walmart, could that be the problem??? what is it?
Hi Doddy, I've just installed a full SRAM XO1 Eagle Boost groupset onto a 2019, Specialized Stumpjumper Expert 650B. When I shift up the cassette, from the 42T cog to the 50T, the chain does not always sit properly between the 'teeth' of the sprocket. Visually, you can see that the 'teeth' of the sprocket are 'hitting' the rollers and holding off the chain from seating properly onto the sproket. The other 'tell tale', as you would expect, is that the drivetrain doesn't sound right when this happens. Usually, a few shifts up and down the block, and it sorts itself out. However, I'd rather this not happen at all. Any ideas or pointers? Thanks. #askgmbn.
Doddmeister...Question: Myth or fact.... Will upgrading to a significantly longer travel fork damage a frame? I think not . I think it would take a considerably longer lever to effect that kind of damage. I measured some forks I have lying around, the length difference between a 110mm and a 160 mm is only 25mm . Factor in a bit of offset in crown and axle . Its probably down to the manufacturers intended use for that bike. XC or a bloody good Sam Pilgrimaging !
Great stuff... Good to explain these to people 👍🏻
Can you please tell me why my rear deralor sometimes shifts in a gear that doesn‘t exist.
Cause your h or L screw is not adjusted properly, or you've bent your hanger
Sticky cable
My chain kept coming off, turned out, 2 links were broken, one on one side, one on the other and just one link apart, so it was pulling to one side and slipping off just as it reached the front set. Needed a new chain the damage done because rear mech was knocked into chainset. Check your chain links, both sides.
1x drivetrains have terrible cross chaining issues when using the lowest and highest gears on the rear cassette.
I can't find a new fork to fit my old style steer tube. Completely stupid that a must buy a new frame just to get a fork.
My chain comes off fairly often, and I put it down to jumping too high (sometimes higher than 8") and shredding too hard. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it!
Which spokes wire size fit on a 27.5 incase you don't get the exact size
How about going full coil on that Nukeproof, installing Marzocchi coil upgrade?
He has, that's why he took the fox forks off
It's a Z1 coil fork
What happened to adjustable pre load on rear coils...
Is it ok to use a 27.5 fork on a 26er frame with 26 tires?
Yes!!! but when all you have is a XC bike then putting a short stem and rad tires and jumping that bad boy is 100% the right attitude to have (and you can mug off yeti-owning-Sunday lunch-riding-dentists with your blatant in their face steezyness on a "not made for that usage blah blah blah" bike), Doddy man remember your roots, we don't all get showered in free modern enduro bikes every day haha.
Quarter back peddle and my new bikes change up a gear and this makes chain slip when putting pressure down on tec climbs, painful. I didn't expect this from expensive bikes.
get it set up properly at your LBS, i could just be cable stretch which happens to all new cables and will alter the tension affecting your gear indexing. specialist kit has tighter parameters and needs fine tuning, an 8 speed has a lot of slop compared to 12 speed.
I'm just starting mtb ,,I have a 27.5 Rockrider st 900,120mm rockshox silver air forks and the back is a x-fusion pro L 120mm air shock i paid £750 for it new,it has sram (xx1) 1x11 gear system,but the gears are Microshift gears and I have tektro brakes hydraulic 180mm front brake 160mm back brake,should I change anything??I'm defo changing the gears i want sram or shimano but I'm new to MTB,any tips helpful thank you
Even better, these outside diameter based standards like 700c and 650b, were important at one point a long time ago because the brakes pressed on the OUTSIDE DIAMETER OF THE TIRE.
Hey Doddy, that looks like a custom reactor! Can you let us know how much the frame weighs? It’s no where to be found on the internet!
I have a 1x12 sram eagle. Everytime I backpedal in the granny gear to avoid pedal strikes my chain falls down. My lbs said there's nothing I can do about it because of the chain line. 😞
You could change the chainring/crankset to give you a narrower chainline
🤔 Your LBS said not even a chain guide (with a cage on top and a roller on the bottom) would work?!
Try a different shop!
@@geemail369 they didnt mention that good idea though
@@lexusstefan927 different cranks would bring the chain closer to the bb?
@@lexusstefan927 no, it will foul the chainstay.
I like jumping thing and pushing into backsides! 😆 So... I should go coil shock!?
Hi what upgrades do you recomend for a carera kracken
Can I put 26 inch wheels on a 27.5 frame
yes
Excellent video!
i would say 90% of the time technique will make more of a difference to how fast you are than gear ever will ... unless your bike is not working properly
But how much this Coil-Carbon-Nuke weight?
you forgot about play in the brake disk. especial in centerlock disks
Serviced my fork waaayyy to late once i took it apart and there they were 2 of the biggest rust spots one can only have nightmares about🤣🤦♂️
Doddy, Im tall and mostly all leg, short torso/arms. I have a 2018 Jeffsy XL(biggest size in that model) and i have to get the seatpost jacked up sky high to get proper leg extension, so my saddle is much higher than my stem/bars. I have 50mm rise bars coming but what brand/model of bike should i be looking at next time. I guess i need soemthing with a tall seat tube and short top tube. thanks! #askgmbn Pic of bike here: imgur.com/dYnwfA1
12:11 Hey Doddy have you heard about Sprindex (sprindex.com)? It promises to give you the ability to easily adjust your spring rate. What do you think about this product? Could this be a solution to weight changes?
Hi Doddy about coils - are they better for heavy rider?
Hey, I'm new to mountain biking but I don't think there's better for weight. If you're heavier you can just add more pressure to an air fork. If you have a coil fork you can tighten it. I don't know if that helped, have a good dau
Bro my suntour fork is so loose I can see it move about 1.5mm that’s not good
Get out of my head man!
I was just thinking about this with my Fork I think I just have a budget Fork has a lot of play.
I'm in love with that bike...
08:00 omfg you have no idea how much I struggle with people about this one ,they just can't comprehend that its normal for the chain to fall if you pedal backwards on the highest gear,now I'm gonna show them this video every time they come asking me to fix this ,I have noticed that mostly rich kids tend to do this like why tf would you pedal backwards while climbing anyways? Lol
#askgmbntech whats ur take on dnm mtb suspension I know dnm do good pit bike suspension also I have a 2014 rockshox Monarch RT3 plus 200mmX51mm travel upgrade from a dnm 165mmx36.5mm Air shock so the Monarch has gave me a wheel travel of 170mm and changed front fork from Sr suntour coil fork 100mm to a set of fox float rp 32 f series 140mm travel air fork tapered with a hope 1-1/8 inch to 1.5" straight steerer adapter and using original top bearing and cup I've tuned to my weight and riding style but small bump sensitivity is crap will a coil shock solve this and what brand of coil shock brand eye to eye 200mm max either 51/57mm travel and cant fault the forks handles everything I throw at them
I’m so used to Doddy’s home setup now that this set looks weird to me now
Another misconception is yeilding to hikers who generally don't like you riding by at any speed.
Remember doddy to turn your bars sideways to eliminate the bushes moving to see if the headset is moving
Yes, can still get some bushing play tho, and maybe wheel ir axle-hub play...but removes brake play and most fork...BUT issue is that your tightening the preload so ur stem clams MUST be loose...so hard to turn wheel and hold there. Not impossible, but tricky.
@@rupedog only with cheap forks, also I'm not tightening anything to loose. All good my end 😊
The last point seems a bit incorrect. Riding without a lockout means you are also losing part of the energy from the pedal stroke to compressing the suspension which means you are going to be having to work harder for the same result or be going a bit slower. For a fit and strong rider this is not really going to be an issue but for lesser riders it can make a difference.
I disagree. For a fit rider, it's easier to shift weight around to overcome some of the surface bumps. A less fit rider, (like me) tends to just stay sat and let the rear suspension work to absorb obstacles like small rocks that would otherwise be a considerable resistance to the path of the back wheel. I have a local route with a rocky climb I've never quite cleared. When I had an air shock with a lockout, I would get further up with the shock in the pedal (mid) setting than with it fully locked out. Just my opinion.
I love the idea of demo'ing bikes. I went to a Trek store in 2022 and they had no bikes to demo. Not one. And they really weren't concerned about it. Was it pandemic inventory problems? Dunno. At that moment, I thought maybe they were pompous about it, thinking Trek is so awesome there's no need. Maybe I'll go check now and see if anything has changed.
Whoops! For a XC guy you just oopsed! On a black and double black tech trail a shorter wheel base is king!
#askgmbn Can you run a coil shock without a coil?
Why would you pedal backwards? Because it makes the freehub sound even cooler! I do it all the time going into corners.
Dear Doddy, have to disagree on the lockout portion of the clip. Any pedaling induced suspension movement is wasting your power. Altering your pedaling technique does not magically change the bike's kinematics. Place a potentiometer on the rocker link or the airspring shaft and you will see that regardless of pedaling technique, power is wasted loading the suspension. "Smoother" pedaling just means you're loading the shock with less intensity and perhaps longer duration. Shifting your weight will alter the sag which in turn will affect the anti-squat. Pedaling technique will NOT. With respect to the lockout, while it does not prevent the waste of pedaling energy (as it is not a true mechanical lockout of the spring), it will go a long way in helping maintain sag for optimum anti-squat etc...
i agree with Doddy, if you pedal efficiently, especially with clips, you pull and push at the same time on either crank so the force you apply over all is evened out which on rough terrain is easier to do with open suspension as you can keep that cadence consistent and not stall on obstacles as your suspension soaks them up, meaning you exert less energy over all. its only efficient to use lock outs on smooth trails/road. where the suspension has no benefit.
wow there was some information in that upload
#Doddysknowledgeishuge
Top notch info / video (..mainly🙃😋-blake agrees on not back peddling...but thats cos blakie cant fakie!!)
See the cycling industry fooled everyone into switching to 27.5 when the difference was negligible. 26” and 29” would have sufficed.
I like 27.5 better than 26. It is nice to have different options.
Yeah i totally disagree. 29 is too big for most of my riding and riding style, and 27.5 is a nice step up from 26 for me.
Yes sir! I'm with You!... And then came 27.5+ wich is pretty similar to 29er... Industry foolin' us all time...
hi I love the show❤️❤️🥺
A non properly torqued rotor can also cause a loose headset feeling
Creaking headset is a common problem of integrated system. Using zero stock is way far better.
Need to grease the cups, crown race, all outside surfaces of bearings, spacers, top cap...all of it! Also helps prolong bearings as keeps more water and dirt out.
I always reqrease and clean.. but the problem always persist.. specially after a heavy use.. not found in some zero stock headset ive known
Hey doddy. I have a large firebird 29, and i just reversed the stem on it to make it easier to maneuver with super short reach. I like the stock bike when riding saddle down, but when i do ride with the saddle up on flat and medium terrain, reach is too far out. My question is, is it mechanically safe to reverse the stem? Here is the link to my bike. ruclips.net/video/h4pYiYVYeYU/видео.html
mechanically sound, but has so many draw backs from ergonomics, weight transfer, stability, etc, try moving your saddle as far forward as you can (with in the recommended parameters, likely printed on the rails), raise your bar/stem, buy height rise bars and/or with greater sweep, this will effectively decrease the reach.
If the rim was in the middle of 26 inch and 29 inch then the tire added ontop would be closer to the 29 inch than the 26,so this is wrong
The chain falling off when pedaling backwards is an indication that you’re a bad mechanic! 😄
And I was worried I would have too many colors on my bike ..... jeeeze
Rotor bolts can also come loose
Are you Tom Scott??
Loose discs also feel like headset.
That coil suspension is sexy!
"Do it up to the correct torque setting", yep, everyone does that, oh yes, yep.
I do... if ur going to work on a bike, seriously, u should. Essential tool.
@@rupedog Never bothered myself. Hand tight has always seen me right. If you're repairing bikes for a living then insurance against liability is a factor.
Machines used to work just fine, with correct setting up, long before the torque wrench was a tool.
affalaffaa They also used to be far overbuilt for the loads they were seeing to compensate for this lack of assembly precision
Make a video on the best mountain bikes under $500
Shardegal there’s no such thing as the “best bike”. Especially on the budget end most bikes are similar
My first mountain bike was a $400 hard tail from a sporting goods store. Lasted me 5 years before the drive train fell apart and I ended up upgrading to a better bike. You can also find good deals in used bikes if you want a budget $500 used bike.
@@peterlang5047 yea... trying to find which one's the most worth it. there's a lot out there from brand news to used ones
You mean a walmart bike?
@@joshue2112 Look up "mbr" here on yt - they've compared loads of bikes in different price brackets!
yes please.. millimeters, otherwise it is just guessing.
And that's why Americans can't build a good motorcycle
Who is that "smart" to think that 27.5 is a rim size??
I pedal backwards because I like fakies
Good point..re fakies
Me too, but i find its usually most effective at matching my speed when im halfway down the cassette and thus, not really having to worry about the chain coming off because of bad chainline
Put it in low gear and pedal backwards and see if it doesnt drop a cog...bet you it does.
No, they are not. And 29" are a lot closer to 26". 26" are about 22.25".
i just smacked myself in the head, hard...in retrospect, it's pretty obvious that dry lube is for dry *conditions*, not that it's, like, a powder or something...😜😒
Ross, is that you?
For the love of God why don't bikes use metric and measure wheels not wheels with an average tyre?
Can you guys unblock me in the GMBN community group too :) i'm behaving well in the GCN one ... no more nasty jokes
Lol what happened?
@@ValentinosKoutekidis a bit of a sexist bike comparison and a report and ban :( ...
Go back to 26 wheelset