Mine was the pump. Took 28.99 plus tax to fix it. Not only I fixed it, my 15 years old son saw the video and helped me. We created father & son memories. Thank you for both.
Excellent, thorough, and helpful repair video! Thank you so much. I'm over 65, and had a little trouble hearing in some parts. Very smooth and pleasant voice though.
Great delivery and over-view.... despite fit's and starts in the wrong direction. TWO POINTS for those that might be adhering to the directions: a) DO NOT short (shunt) the connection with a paper-clip as shown in the video when by-passing the cover switch. If comfortable: USE an insulated wire, stripped on both ends. (The 'paper clip' becomes 'hot', and can too easily short to the chassis...through you. b) Note that the BOTTOM of the un-disturbed unit is OPEN by design. Bringing in two (or three) concrete bricks, and 'rocking' the unit up onto the bricks, placing the unit 8" off of the floor, allows visual access to the bottom of the washer... and THEN dump a bucket of water in it, and inspect for the source of the leak. Use a mirror and a flash-light as necessary. Power-up only if the leak doesn't become apparent.
Thank you so much, I just fixed my 25 year old washer that was leaking badly for $20. The wire recircuit was clutch! I was able to test it before I reassembled it. Thanks a million!!!!!
ARE YOU BATMAN? BRUCE WAYNE?? ADAM WEST REINCARNATED??? 😂 I've watched hundreds of videos to help me fix my old direct drive Kenmore. I can take mine apart with my eye closed (and remove the cabinet by myself)! 👩🔧 Lol ...THIS video, by far, has been the most enjoyable & comprehensive! HOLY DIY, BATMAN!! ❤❤❤
Just replaced our pump, it had a hairline crack. Needed a second set of hands to get the hoses off it. Wife found your video and it helped us fix our machine! Very good walkthrough. Part was $40 at a local appliance parts shop, but they gave it to us for $20 cash.
WOW 196K views ... good for you. My problem was with my Kenmore dryer because somebody (not me) dropped something down the vent chute and it was screaming against the fan blades. Another RUclipsr helped me dismantle and fix that. Then I had to pull out the washing machine to give me room to align the vent duct to the wall ... problem begins. As soon as I tugged on the washer the side panels popped out off the base and the whole front was now loose. Somebody suggested I must have forgotten to put some screws back. I felt that must be the case but then I found your video. Sure helped me get everything back in the right place so thanks for your time.
I started YTing because I wanted to remember where are the screws and bolts go, so I get where you're coming from. It's also why I spend a little time on this, and I'm continually surprised by comments that urge me to get to the point. My "point" is that some/many of my audience members want the little details. When I do a job I try to dwell on things I found particularly tricky that I only figured out by trial and error.
Great video. Thank you! Helped me diagnose my leak. Turned out to be the tub seal, in my case. Worth mentioning though, that you don't just want to keep your fingers away from the exposed wires when doing the test cycle. I reconnected my lid switch to avoid bridging any circuits manually with wire. The problem was, I have one of those cheaper models that uses a lot of unshielded jumpers rather than plastic connectors on the top panel. When I turned the washer on for the test cycle after pulling the front panel off I realized that vibration might be an issue for the then-balancing top panel, and without giving enough thought nudged it backward to see if it was snug in it's place. It was not. With that nudge I managed to contact the exposed jumper on the water level pressure switch with the chassis. Made a nice big spark, and fortunately just tripped the breaker. Didn't damage any components, and I wasn't touching the washer with my bare hands when it happened, so all is well, and lesson learned.
Your video gave me courage to examine my 110 model after it developed a leak. As it turned out, the problem was because of overfilling with dirty clothes. There was enough splash back to run down the side of the tub and onto the floor. This is confirmed in retrospect because there was no leakage during the second wash cycle, owing to the fact that wet clothes sit at the bottom of the tub. As a suggestion for readers of this comment, may I suggest marking the housing and floor with electrical tape to help with getting the housing on the 4 guide pins. Also, there is a better way of removing the brass retaining clips. Check another kenmore washer video and you will see it. Thanks for your post, Doug and thank you RUclips!
You’re AMAZING!! Thank you for posting this very clear, self- fix video.! I wouldn’t be able to fix anything without people like you and I can’t afford to just buy a new one and I’d rather fix things anyway if their fixable, instead of throwing things out. SOOOOO..... Thank you for this and ALL your time.! God bless! 😇😇😇😇❤️❤️❤️😇😇😇
Thanks for the video. My washer was leaking and I followed your instructions and I have the exact same problem as you. Ordering the replacement right now. And to think I was ready to throw out the washer. Thank you very much!
That's great to hear. So often we're ready to chuck a major appliance like a fridge or microwave when it just needs a simple part. Common sense too and the confidence to try things on your own. Glad I could help.
Excellent video Doug. You showed each step perfectly. I bought a used Kenmore top loading washer from our local Restore Store for $100. It looks almost brand new. They said they checked it out, but I'm sure they didn't. I don't remember the exact problem, but I thought it was the clutch so I bought a new one from the internet and installed it. Not a hard job but makes you lay the machine on its side to do the job. Cost...$15 and my time. Well... That wasn't the problem. Turns out it was the lid switch which shuts down the washer from spinning if you open the lid while it's spinning. Cost...less than $2.00. When the lid is closed a tab on the lid presses on a switch and makes the electrical connection. All you would have to do to make the washer spin when it's apart is to depress that switch. Much safer than your jumper wire that is not insulated and could cause a short and burn out something else or start a fire. Now I have a leak, so I'll have to do what you did. I hope it's a simple fix.
This guy has a Jeff Goldblum vibe about him. Also... Take a shot every time he says, "just grab your screwdriver and pop that off". Thanks for the video, it helped me a lot! :)
The control panel was reluctant to spin around! When you unplug the lid switch, inspect it damaged pins/pin covers. My w/pool, i had a heck of a time getting it to disconnect. When it did, one of the 3 pin black covers had signs of melting & cracking/breaking. Thanks
The agitator has a piece that can be removed and cleaned. Ran it thru the dishwashing and replaved into the agitator. My next load I noticed water on the floor coming from the bottom left side. I will try the newspaper trick. I have a Maytag Industrial home machine. Model # SAVe50z
Fantastic video. So helpful. I have same washing machine and same "leak underneath" issue. I will tackle this problem tomorrow. Thanks for your help. I now have the courage and confidence to do this. BTW I subscribed to compensate you for your hard work.
I'm just going to start this project but yours is the 1st vid that has answered how and where to start so clearly that I feel I can do this..only 1 ?.. is there a filter in this machine? Been looking online for months . Yhank you so much for posting this vid..
Excellent very informative and helpful video. I think the hardest part of the repair is removing the panels. I’m hoping to see someone do that part. I realize it would probably be time consuming as you’re learning as you go but still very useful. Thank you!
He didn't have them installed correctly in the beginning, I'm thinking he took it apart before and did it wrong the first time and doesn't really know what he's doing.
Excellent video, I'm having the weirdest situation where the wash leaked created a puddle around the machine and when I set it to drain in did so but it also sucked up all the water puddled on the floor about an inch deep it sucked it all up. How did it do that? Now it won't put out any water and is stuck in a wash cycle, but no water inside, but I can hear some sloshing around the outside of the drum
That's really strange. All I can think of is that your water "exit" hose has a hole in it and the hose is laying in the water.. When the water pump starts up, it creates a vacuum in the hose to suck out the water in the tub, and because the hose is immersed in the puddle, that water also gets sucked up. I'd turn the unit over and trace the hose from the pump and then along the bottom of the unit.
Today we opened it up and never did find a leak or the way it possibly sucked the water up off the ground back into the machine/drain hose. But we did get it working again by blowing into the Pressure Valve hose from the bottom. After that the water would turn on again and it would do the filling cycle them move to the washing cycle and finally drain. Before it was just doing the wash cycle with no water inside.
The metal clips that hold the back to the front of the machine under the control panel: There is a MUCH easier way to remove and reinstall them. (They were not reinstalled in the video, BTW.) Put your screwdriver in the FRONT of the clip, and lever that piece out of the hole. Then you can easily remove the clip's tab from the back plate. To reinstall it, first hook the clip's tab into the back panel, use the clip to pull the back panel into place against the front of the machine, and then use your screwdriver to force the front of the clip down into its hole. Only after you've done all of that should you reinstall the control panel.
DONT Ever Do what this guy did with the jumper wire.To jump it the safe way Get a piece of wire about 3 inches and strip each end about half inch and use that and tape it
My kenmore washer is leaking from the bottom front right. I think it's the water pump, I tried to fill and tilt it back to see where the water is coming from and water started pouring out of the back. I've ordered the water pump from amazon for $12.99 plus freight of $5.99. Ebay has the pump for $8.00 with free freight. My question is, do I have to remove the cover or can I replace the pump from the bottom?
Hi, you could tilt the machine up, but people don't tend to think that creatively :) All the parts are right there, so if you have the space to flip it over I'd say go for it.
Doug, since there was a comment about potential risk with paper clip/circuit run is it possible instead to bring back the control forward (without the cabinet back on) and replug the beige snap in connector back into its female outlet in order to power back the machine so I can run it then inspect for leaks or is the female outlet actually part of the washing machine cabinet that's already been lifted off?
Thanks for the comment. Yes, you can certainly do that. The short circuit was just a shortcut to save some time. The comment was valid that an insulated wire is better, so I would use a short length of copper wire with its plastic insulation still in place and the two ends exposed.
@@robertpeach6029 The way I read your question, I thought you meant to reconnect the electrical connections, but not screw all the cabinetry back together. The circuits all need to be connected, put simply.
@@DougBrownVancouver Doug, can I pull the control panel forward, keep the cabinetry off and plug that beige male plug into the female outlet that is, hopefully NOT part of the cabinetry? Just concerned I'll screw up with the wire/paperclip method and blow a fuse or worse.
I'll take another run at this. The wire/short circuit connects a circuit that passes through the washer lid. When the lid is closed, the circuit is closed, electricity flows to the motor and the machine runs. When you lift the lid, it breaks the circuit and the machine turns off. The wire in my video is opening the circuit so the washer runs regardless of the lid. I removed the entire cabinet to get a better look inside the washer, and to run the washer with water. That allows me to inspect the leak. The lid goes along with the cabinet so the only way to run the washer is to short the circuit.
Help! I fixed a leak on my washer single-handedly by following the instructions in this video! The washer shook a lot during the spin cycles so I figured I didnt put it back together all the way right. I put the goldish springs on wrong and now they are stuck in the wrong position which isnt securing the top to the frame and I can't get them off. Any suggestions?
All I can say is that brute force helps. I would just take a pair of pliers and pull/twist hard. Just keep banging away but of course don't damage the parts.
Like I found in the video, I would dry the whole unit then add some water to the unit. Start eliminating the potential causes. If the tub is secure then run the drain and so forth.
@@DougBrownVancouver I figured that, or a previous owner might have done it. This page has a few pictures showing the correct orientation. dengarden.com/appliances/Washer-Not-Spinning-Try-This-First
K U D O S ! ON YOUR VIDEO AND VERY INFORMATIVE. MAYBE YOU CAN HELP ME WITH ME MINE OR GIVE ADVICE. I HAVE AND ADMIRAL TOP LOADER MASHING AND STARTED TO LEAK. THE LEAK IS WHERE YOU OPEN THE TOP AND YOU CAN SEE DROPS OF WATER DRIPPING.. GOING BONKERS TRYING TO FIGURING IT OUT. DOESN'T LEAK FROM THE BOTTOM AT ALL. ANY INFORMATION YOU CAN GIVE ME IS REALLY APPRECIATED. THANK YOU AND BLESSING. STAY SAFE...
Wow, where to start! Beware, this video offers ridiculously unsafe (i.e. exposure to live wires and moving parts) and general bad advice (i.e. useless disassembly of the washing machine). I had the same drainage hose leak. Instead of doing a complete teardown of the washing machine like in this video I laid out a thick towel on the floor, disconnected and tilted the washing machine onto it. There is no cover on the bottom. You then have easy access to the pump and drainage hoses which you can easily replace if needed. It's mind-boggling how the author can speak with such confidence and try to have you completely disassemble your washing machine for no good reason.
Removing the cabinet is the softer, easier way to find the leaks. Why? You can fill the tub with water, run the machine through its cycles to find leaks around the shaft and tub seals. Try doing that without removing the cabinet. If you don't know where the leak is ahead of time, this is the right way to find them. IMO.
I'll take that on board. After receiving four million views and thousands of comments including this one, I have a particular style that my thousands of subscribers appreciate.
Well, all people eat food, but no one is concerned with the chewing process. I already knew that I would have to replace waterpump. I never finished your video.
Why? I fix my washer without looking at your video. I did look at another video. It was about 3 minutes. I made my repairs in the time it would have taken me to watch your video. We all have a different learning and teaching style. Now, that Ive seen one of your videos I will make a mental note; he likes to hear himself talk.
Eugenio Lopez You are selfish. You don't understand that my subscribers like my videos because I explain things. They're not as smart as you. You seem to know everything. You sure like to provide opinions on things even though you're not invited. You love yourself. You love the way you sound. You love that you are so much better than everyone. You love telling everyone what to do. You're so great, make your own channel and make your own videos.
Mine was the pump. Took 28.99 plus tax to fix it. Not only I fixed it, my 15 years old son saw the video and helped me. We created father & son memories. Thank you for both.
Excellent!
@@DougBrownVancouver can you test like that without the wire?
Excellent, thorough, and helpful repair video! Thank you so much. I'm over 65, and had a little trouble hearing in some parts. Very smooth and pleasant voice though.
Thank you for the comment, and I’m glad I was able to provide some help
Great delivery and over-view.... despite fit's and starts in the wrong direction. TWO POINTS for those that might be adhering to the directions:
a) DO NOT short (shunt) the connection with a paper-clip as shown in the video when by-passing the cover switch. If comfortable: USE an insulated wire, stripped on both ends. (The 'paper clip' becomes 'hot', and can too easily short to the chassis...through you.
b) Note that the BOTTOM of the un-disturbed unit is OPEN by design. Bringing in two (or three) concrete bricks, and 'rocking' the unit up onto the bricks, placing the unit 8" off of the floor, allows visual access to the bottom of the washer... and THEN dump a bucket of water in it, and inspect for the source of the leak. Use a mirror and a flash-light as necessary. Power-up only if the leak doesn't become apparent.
He did great, shut yo ass up
Thank you so much, I just fixed my 25 year old washer that was leaking badly for $20. The wire recircuit was clutch! I was able to test it before I reassembled it. Thanks a million!!!!!
ARE YOU BATMAN? BRUCE WAYNE?? ADAM WEST REINCARNATED??? 😂 I've watched hundreds of videos to help me fix my old direct drive Kenmore. I can take mine apart with my eye closed (and remove the cabinet by myself)! 👩🔧 Lol ...THIS video, by far, has been the most enjoyable & comprehensive! HOLY DIY, BATMAN!! ❤❤❤
Just replaced our pump, it had a hairline crack. Needed a second set of hands to get the hoses off it. Wife found your video and it helped us fix our machine! Very good walkthrough. Part was $40 at a local appliance parts shop, but they gave it to us for $20 cash.
Great!
WOW 196K views ... good for you. My problem was with my Kenmore dryer because somebody (not me) dropped something down the vent chute and it was screaming against the fan blades. Another RUclipsr helped me dismantle and fix that. Then I had to pull out the washing machine to give me room to align the vent duct to the wall ... problem begins. As soon as I tugged on the washer the side panels popped out off the base and the whole front was now loose. Somebody suggested I must have forgotten to put some screws back. I felt that must be the case but then I found your video. Sure helped me get everything back in the right place so thanks for your time.
I started YTing because I wanted to remember where are the screws and bolts go, so I get where you're coming from. It's also why I spend a little time on this, and I'm continually surprised by comments that urge me to get to the point. My "point" is that some/many of my audience members want the little details. When I do a job I try to dwell on things I found particularly tricky that I only figured out by trial and error.
Great video. Thank you! Helped me diagnose my leak. Turned out to be the tub seal, in my case. Worth mentioning though, that you don't just want to keep your fingers away from the exposed wires when doing the test cycle. I reconnected my lid switch to avoid bridging any circuits manually with wire. The problem was, I have one of those cheaper models that uses a lot of unshielded jumpers rather than plastic connectors on the top panel. When I turned the washer on for the test cycle after pulling the front panel off I realized that vibration might be an issue for the then-balancing top panel, and without giving enough thought nudged it backward to see if it was snug in it's place. It was not. With that nudge I managed to contact the exposed jumper on the water level pressure switch with the chassis. Made a nice big spark, and fortunately just tripped the breaker. Didn't damage any components, and I wasn't touching the washer with my bare hands when it happened, so all is well, and lesson learned.
Good to know and glad I could help.
Your video gave me courage to examine my 110 model after it developed a leak. As it turned out, the problem was because of overfilling with dirty clothes. There was enough splash back to run down the side of the tub and onto the floor. This is confirmed in retrospect because there was no leakage during the second wash cycle, owing to the fact that wet clothes sit at the bottom of the tub. As a suggestion for readers of this comment, may I suggest marking the housing and floor with electrical tape to help with getting the housing on the 4 guide pins. Also, there is a better way of removing the brass retaining clips. Check another kenmore washer video and you will see it. Thanks for your post, Doug and thank you RUclips!
Mine was a G E and simply tip unit down forward and complete access to the water pump from bottom..15 minutes total .No panels-3 screws on pump
I have no space for that, but good tip for those that do.
Great video, thanks for showing the procedure in such great detail with explanations! Ready to tackle mine now.
Excellent, glad to help!
You’re AMAZING!! Thank you for posting this very clear, self- fix video.! I wouldn’t be able to fix anything without people like you and I can’t afford to just buy a new one and I’d rather fix things anyway if their fixable, instead of throwing things out. SOOOOO..... Thank you for this and ALL your time.! God bless! 😇😇😇😇❤️❤️❤️😇😇😇
Excellent, glad I could help!
Thanks for the video. My washer was leaking and I followed your instructions and I have the exact same problem as you. Ordering the replacement right now. And to think I was ready to throw out the washer. Thank you very much!
That's great to hear. So often we're ready to chuck a major appliance like a fridge or microwave when it just needs a simple part. Common sense too and the confidence to try things on your own. Glad I could help.
Excellent video Doug.
You showed each step perfectly.
I bought a used Kenmore top loading washer from our local Restore Store for $100.
It looks almost brand new.
They said they checked it out, but I'm sure they didn't.
I don't remember the exact problem, but I thought it was the clutch
so I bought a new one from the internet and installed it. Not a hard job
but makes you lay the machine on its side to do the job.
Cost...$15 and my time.
Well...
That wasn't the problem.
Turns out it was the lid switch which shuts down the washer from spinning if you
open the lid while it's spinning.
Cost...less than $2.00.
When the lid is closed a tab on the lid presses on a switch and makes the electrical
connection. All you would have to do to make the washer spin when it's apart is to
depress that switch. Much safer than your jumper wire that is not insulated and could
cause a short and burn out something else or start a fire.
Now I have a leak, so I'll have to do what you did.
I hope it's a simple fix.
Just bypass the switch for free
This guy has a Jeff Goldblum vibe about him. Also... Take a shot every time he says, "just grab your screwdriver and pop that off". Thanks for the video, it helped me a lot! :)
Cross check Jeff Goldblum's whereabouts when this video was posted. You might not be able to find him...for some reason.
The control panel was reluctant to spin around! When you unplug the lid switch, inspect it damaged pins/pin covers. My w/pool, i had a heck of a time getting it to disconnect. When it did, one of the 3 pin black covers had signs of melting & cracking/breaking. Thanks
This is the same model My mom has. Hopefully the issue is as simple as yours. Great video!!!!!!!!
The agitator has a piece that can be removed and cleaned. Ran it thru the dishwashing and replaved into the agitator. My next load I noticed water on the floor coming from the bottom left side. I will try the newspaper trick. I have a Maytag Industrial home machine. Model # SAVe50z
Outstanding video on a DIY. 🔥💯🤘
Fantastic video. So helpful. I have same washing machine and same "leak underneath" issue. I will tackle this problem tomorrow. Thanks for your help. I now have the courage and confidence to do this. BTW I subscribed to compensate you for your hard work.
I'm just going to start this project but yours is the 1st vid that has answered how and where to start so clearly that I feel I can do this..only 1 ?.. is there a filter in this machine?
Been looking online for months . Yhank you so much for posting this vid..
Any uncertainly in putting back together after disassembly can be rectified by taking pictures as you take apart.
Or a video :)
Yessss..very good to let people kno we this. That's exactly what I would do. You need to take pics for sure!
Excellent very informative and helpful video. I think the hardest part of the repair is removing the panels. I’m hoping to see someone do that part. I realize it would probably be time consuming as you’re learning as you go but still very useful. Thank you!
Awesome video. Answered all of my questions. Thank you!
I'm curious what size and type of wiring he used to bypass the tub lid mechanism?
I know this is an old video but don't jumper the switch with what looks like a metal wire with no insulation.
So, what does one do to get the washer to run without a lid?
@@psale1 use a jumper thats insulated
Good video.. good explanation. This isn't exact for my model, but it was close. Thanks for the help!
Thanks and am glad I could help!
Use insulated solid copper wire for a jumper
Thanks for this video Doug , really helpful, you deserves subscribers so I subscribed your channel already
Thanks for the vid but FYI you forgot the clips that hold the back to the cabinet.
Thanks for doing this video. Some useful tips on the disassembly.
Watercomingoutleftsideoffwashmachin
Thanks a lot. I did not have the same problem but your video helped me on how to remove the shell. :D
Watched it, diagnosed it,. fixed it! Thanks for the video...………….
This is great, but at 16:19 he forgets to reinstall the brass springs that attach the cabinet to the back.
@ 5:50 he talked about the two metal spring, then notice at 16:19 he did not set them. as you stated Chris.
Thanks for pointing that out. Cheers.
He didn't have them installed correctly in the beginning, I'm thinking he took it apart before and did it wrong the first time and doesn't really know what he's doing.
Thanks for the help! Great video!
Same model. Mine is leaking when it begins to fill to desired level. A gasket maybe? Tub seal sorry.
Hi, I would remove the case and then run the washer to see if you can spot where the leak is.
Great video. My washer is leaking from the area where the water comes in to the tub. Is it the inlet valves?
nice; thanks
thank you very much for the video, really helpful
Excellent video, I'm having the weirdest situation where the wash leaked created a puddle around the machine and when I set it to drain in did so but it also sucked up all the water puddled on the floor about an inch deep it sucked it all up. How did it do that? Now it won't put out any water and is stuck in a wash cycle, but no water inside, but I can hear some sloshing around the outside of the drum
That's really strange. All I can think of is that your water "exit" hose has a hole in it and the hose is laying in the water.. When the water pump starts up, it creates a vacuum in the hose to suck out the water in the tub, and because the hose is immersed in the puddle, that water also gets sucked up. I'd turn the unit over and trace the hose from the pump and then along the bottom of the unit.
Also, the hole would also be the cause of your puddle. If this is it, just replace the hose.
Today we opened it up and never did find a leak or the way it possibly sucked the water up off the ground back into the machine/drain hose. But we did get it working again by blowing into the Pressure Valve hose from the bottom. After that the water would turn on again and it would do the filling cycle them move to the washing cycle and finally drain. Before it was just doing the wash cycle with no water inside.
great lesson, Gracias!
I have the exact same washer, nothing special about it....lol
The metal clips that hold the back to the front of the machine under the control panel: There is a MUCH easier way to remove and reinstall them. (They were not reinstalled in the video, BTW.)
Put your screwdriver in the FRONT of the clip, and lever that piece out of the hole. Then you can easily remove the clip's tab from the back plate. To reinstall it, first hook the clip's tab into the back panel, use the clip to pull the back panel into place against the front of the machine, and then use your screwdriver to force the front of the clip down into its hole. Only after you've done all of that should you reinstall the control panel.
Great thanks!
I changed tub and shaft seals and it still leaking
When closing the circuit, how do i know where to place the metal wire?
Thanks for watching. There are only two holes in the plug so each end of the wire simply goes into one of the holes.
My amana washer been leaking,looks like the hot water inlet. Has a streak running down the back panel any advice??
Could be a couple things. This article looks perfect for you.
www.thespruce.com/repair-washing-machine-water-inlet-valve-1824606
Why did you need to remove the cabinet?
Could one just lay the machine on its back completely and change the hose?
My washer and dryer are crammed into a tiny space.
He had to remove the cabinet to find the leak!
Thank you 🙏
DONT Ever Do what this guy did with the jumper wire.To jump it the safe way Get a piece of wire about 3 inches and strip each end about half inch and use that and tape it
My problem is water is coming from the top like from THE panel
My kenmore washer is leaking from the bottom front right. I think it's the water pump, I tried to fill and tilt it back to see where the water is coming from and water started pouring out of the back. I've ordered the water pump from amazon for $12.99 plus freight of $5.99. Ebay has the pump for $8.00 with free freight. My question is, do I have to remove the cover or can I replace the pump from the bottom?
Hi, you could tilt the machine up, but people don't tend to think that creatively :) All the parts are right there, so if you have the space to flip it over I'd say go for it.
Sir my machine leaks when catching the was for a cycle
What is the capacity for this washer?
My washer is leaking water back into the tub what could that be?
Possible to do a video of what you see?
Doug, since there was a comment about potential risk with paper clip/circuit run is it possible instead to bring back the control forward (without the cabinet back on) and replug the beige snap in connector back into its female outlet in order to power back the machine so I can run it then inspect for leaks or is the female outlet actually part of the washing machine cabinet that's already been lifted off?
Thanks for the comment. Yes, you can certainly do that. The short circuit was just a shortcut to save some time. The comment was valid that an insulated wire is better, so I would use a short length of copper wire with its plastic insulation still in place and the two ends exposed.
@@DougBrownVancouver thanks Doug, you mean I can plug it back in and not have to use any additional wiring in any way?
@@robertpeach6029 The way I read your question, I thought you meant to reconnect the electrical connections, but not screw all the cabinetry back together. The circuits all need to be connected, put simply.
@@DougBrownVancouver Doug, can I pull the control panel forward, keep the cabinetry off and plug that beige male plug into the female outlet that is, hopefully NOT part of the cabinetry? Just concerned I'll screw up with the wire/paperclip method and blow a fuse or worse.
I'll take another run at this. The wire/short circuit connects a circuit that passes through the washer lid. When the lid is closed, the circuit is closed, electricity flows to the motor and the machine runs. When you lift the lid, it breaks the circuit and the machine turns off. The wire in my video is opening the circuit so the washer runs regardless of the lid.
I removed the entire cabinet to get a better look inside the washer, and to run the washer with water. That allows me to inspect the leak. The lid goes along with the cabinet so the only way to run the washer is to short the circuit.
How to change pump? When?
Hi Danny. I don't have a video on that, but once the unit is turned over, it will be very straightforward. Just look for obvious bolts etc.
Help! I fixed a leak on my washer single-handedly by following the instructions in this video! The washer shook a lot during the spin cycles so I figured I didnt put it back together all the way right. I put the goldish springs on wrong and now they are stuck in the wrong position which isnt securing the top to the frame and I can't get them off. Any suggestions?
All I can say is that brute force helps. I would just take a pair of pliers and pull/twist hard. Just keep banging away but of course don't damage the parts.
@@DougBrownVancouver Thanks for the advice! I'll give it a shot or else get some muscle to help.
But I have a stacked washer/dryer!
Decouple the dryer first.
Cheat hoses from factory on a special edition!
Where did you get the part #? Or what is the part # and where did you get it?
I live in Canada and went online at Reliable Parts.
@@DougBrownVancouver I ordered one off Amazon and the part was one of hundreds listed and it still fit.
@@layzy24 A lot of the components fit a lot of models for sure
Gracias!
I replaced bottom seal on transmission for GE washer still leaking any advice thanks
Like I found in the video, I would dry the whole unit then add some water to the unit. Start eliminating the potential causes. If the tub is secure then run the drain and so forth.
iso for tub seal kit for amana model LW8203W2 or PLW8203W2B ?
Hmm, can't answer, sorry
Just a note, you have the springs for the cabinet installed incorrectly. They aren't supposed to go underneath like that.
Would you please do a video and reference this one. I removed them exactly as the factory installed them.
@@DougBrownVancouver I figured that, or a previous owner might have done it. This page has a few pictures showing the correct orientation. dengarden.com/appliances/Washer-Not-Spinning-Try-This-First
K U D O S ! ON YOUR VIDEO AND VERY INFORMATIVE. MAYBE YOU CAN HELP ME WITH ME MINE OR GIVE ADVICE. I HAVE AND ADMIRAL TOP LOADER MASHING AND STARTED TO LEAK. THE LEAK IS WHERE YOU OPEN THE TOP AND YOU CAN SEE DROPS OF WATER DRIPPING.. GOING BONKERS TRYING TO FIGURING IT OUT. DOESN'T LEAK FROM THE BOTTOM AT ALL. ANY INFORMATION YOU CAN GIVE ME IS REALLY APPRECIATED. THANK YOU AND BLESSING. STAY SAFE...
Hi, sorry, I don't have any advice on that one!
Good coverage but u tend to mumble. I do have hearing trouble so will split it with ya
I disagree. I understood him perfectly. Fantastic video
Thank you thank you you a real nigga
Thanks and I try
thats not the right way to install the clamps holding the shell on
Please supply a correction and ideally a video. That would be great, thanks.
B
ruclips.net/video/e2ueuC_2Nak/видео.html
Are you going to actually repair the machine or not?
-Charles-
I'll let you know
Wow, where to start! Beware, this video offers ridiculously unsafe (i.e. exposure to live wires and moving parts) and general bad advice (i.e. useless disassembly of the washing machine). I had the same drainage hose leak. Instead of doing a complete teardown of the washing machine like in this video I laid out a thick towel on the floor, disconnected and tilted the washing machine onto it. There is no cover on the bottom. You then have easy access to the pump and drainage hoses which you can easily replace if needed. It's mind-boggling how the author can speak with such confidence and try to have you completely disassemble your washing machine for no good reason.
Well said. Everyone please note.
Removing the cabinet is the softer, easier way to find the leaks. Why? You can fill the tub with water, run the machine through its cycles to find leaks around the shaft and tub seals. Try doing that without removing the cabinet. If you don't know where the leak is ahead of time, this is the right way to find them. IMO.
No need to describe the operation of a washing machine. Most people have one. Get on with the repair.
I'll take that on board. After receiving four million views and thousands of comments including this one, I have a particular style that my thousands of subscribers appreciate.
Well, all people eat food, but no one is concerned with the chewing process. I already knew that I would have to replace waterpump. I never finished your video.
@@eugeniolopez8539 You are wrong.
Why? I fix my washer without looking at your video. I did look at another video. It was about 3 minutes. I made my repairs in the time it would have taken me to watch your video. We all have a different learning and teaching style. Now, that Ive seen one of your videos I will make a mental note; he likes to hear himself talk.
Eugenio Lopez You are selfish. You don't understand that my subscribers like my videos because I explain things. They're not as smart as you. You seem to know everything. You sure like to provide opinions on things even though you're not invited. You love yourself. You love the way you sound. You love that you are so much better than everyone. You love telling everyone what to do. You're so great, make your own channel and make your own videos.