..."not a factory-trained Toyota Tech"...You are, however, an obviously highly-skilled and experienced general mechanic and tech with a good head on your shoulders and some great training somewhere along the line. The fact that you are so humble about your abilities makes it that much more impressive.
2007 Rav4 in my stable, same engine, and guess what. 1 quart gone after, you guessed it, 400 miles. So, I'm intently watching these videos. Thanks for this.
Good morning Wes. Like I said I'm the early bird that catches the worm lol. Well I did my research and you are 825 miles from me and driving time 12 hours and 32 minutes for a young normal person the reason why I say this is because I'm not normal. I'm 71 years young and I have lung and brain cancers. There has to be a mechanic that does the kind of work you do closer to where I live. Well I'm a subscriber to your channel and if you don't mind I would like to keep you informed on the changing of the oil consumption, like changing from 0 W 20 too 10 W 40 to see if I burn less oil. As always Thank You very much Michael Buffolino Jr.
I also have a 2007 RV4 LIMITED with 90000 miles, I guess I need to look forward to doing this repair in the future -:) , Thanks for the Video and perfect explanation.
The video presentation is excellent. The cadence is perfect making it easy to hear every word clearly. Top marks for not rushing the explanations. One tip though, wear some kind of gloves you can work with. Prevents any serious injury and just as important to keep the hands clean. No woman likes grubby oil damaged hands and fingers on her or inside her. Besides that you risk dermatitis, which is painful when the skin begins cracking and leaves open sores as you age. I know of two mechanics who have this problem, and one other who died 15 or so years who also suffered with this. His reasoning was as he mentioned . it was not 'Manly' in his tine to use protective hand cream or gloves --- Society pressure to conform to stupid ideology is dangerous and it over-rides the logical thought process for many people just to be a social conformist.
Working in gloves is a pain. Have you ever tried starting a bolt deep in an engine cavity you can't see and can barely fit your your thumb and index finger?
I went to work for Toyota almost 30 years ago. Needless to say, they’ve changed so much that it’s really not the same company. Some things changed for the better, some not so much. We were fixing oil ring issues on Toyota long before there was any “fix” from Toyota. Oil ring gunking up was common on certain of their car engines, Trucks never had an issue. Our fix? Pull the pistons , clean them, and drill a few extra drainage holes in the pistons and install Hastings or Perfect Circle rings. Lightly hone the cylinders and re-install. Toyota engine blocks are very wear resistant in the cylinders. Light honing is sufficient. I purchased a 4AFE equipped Corolla that blew up because the college student let her run low on oil. I spent about $300 on parts and I’ve been running it since 2003. Doesn’t burn a drop after 150K miles. I just lapped the valves and put new guide seals on the head and that was that. I don’t like Toyota’s use of NPR rings for rebuild work. They’re too low of tension for my liking. Running a HDEO like Rotella T-5 10W30 aids in keeping the internals cleaner as well. Your HDEO are generally a good bit higher in detergents/dispersants and will keep ring pack buildup to a minimum.
I apologize for the random question, but I got a 2005 Buick LeSabre as my first car, but I was thinking about selling it and getting a Camry or Corolla whenever I have the sufficient funds to do so. I was thinking about either an 05-08 Corolla or 05-06 Camry, but I wasn't too sure what would be the best. As someone who worked for Toyota for so long, what year model do you think is the best/most reliable for the Corolla or the Camry?
Billybob Schneider Of the two I’d choose the Corolla. Other than minor issues they are hard to beat. That Buick with the 3.8L has been known to run hundreds of thousands of miles too. Some people say they get great fuel economy too. I had one customer that had one as a second car and I never did anything to it other than regular maintenance. The biggest thing about buying a car is finding one that has been serviced properly. I’d try to avoid lease turn-ins or rental car turn-ins. They generally get rode hard and put up wet.
@@prevost8686 I just didn't want to keep driving an "old lady" car. I should be thankful for getting a car bought for me (after waiting 10 months of broken promises). Anyways, that's not the point. After I got it, it'd get 13 mpg combined, so I brought it to my grandfather's mechanic and they replaced the thermostat, an engine mount, and fixed a rear alignment issue for like $700. Had to get the tires rotated as well. Recently had to replace another engine mount which cost another $300 because they only replaced one the previous time for some reason (which didn't to anything to fix the jolting when I put it in reverse or drive), then had to replace the spark plugs, and I need to replace some other things. That was a jumbled mess, but basically what I'm saying is I just want to sell this and get a more reliable car with better gas mileage because I'm tired of dealing with doing all sorts of repairs that should have been done before the car was put up for sale in the first place.
I Prevost, I am very impressed with your 30 years of experience at Toyota and want some advice from you. I have a 2007 Toyota Rav4 burning 2 quarts oil every 1k miles. I have removed and disassembled the engine. My experience and gut instinct is to send the block to machine shop to hot tank and hone, but the the Toyota Re-call TSB says I should not hone the cylinders because there is a liner or coating on it. Should I send it to machine shop for honing? I plan to get the updated pistons from the re-call and finish the rebuild. I have rebuilt a few Honda 4 cylinder motors in the past so familiar with the overall process. Would greatly appreciate your expertise and advise in this area.
I've often wondered whether the newer thin oils will tolerate the expected increase in ring gap as an engine ages. If tolerance is lower, the engine is expected to die sooner. You don't have to be a cynic to know that early death fits nicely with the business model of manufacturers in general. This is gonna be a fun repair to follow along.
Your wife helps about the same amount as mine. Her Honda Accord had a coolant leak and she cooked the whole engine a few years ago. I was lucky I found an engine cheap and swapped it in a day. It's a big job. Nice work Wes
That's what I was afraid of. She's like a typical driver, if the car starts, it must be fine. I had to constantly check the oil for her so we didn't lose the engine. I'm hoping after this she can go back to ignoring it.
Well actually you cook the engine because you are responsible for her car. Unless she's a mechanic of course. It's something that goes with being married and you need to step up to the pump and take responsibility for it
Wes like I have been saying if you wasn't that far away from me I would have you do this job only because I saw you doing it to your wife's Rave 4 and I'm being totally honest with you. Your the man that I would want to do my Camry.
Toyota certified "mechanics" don't dooo....... anything! So that's not saying much. All Toyota does is get you to run the clock on your warranty. They're idiots.
So much for legendary Toyota quality. This amount of oil consumption on any car engine should not be considered normal. It's a cop out from admitting they have a poorly engineered and designed engine.
Mine is doing the same thing. It's a 2004 with 255k on it. I'm looking for a low mile used motor. I don't want junk the car, it is in very good shape and like yours, it is a very reliable car with no drama. Unlike yours, mine has no HVAC issues, Diff leaks, and last year in my driveway I replaced the struts, sway bar links, and I now need a resonator and a cat convertor.
There are so many things I have "re-manned" in my life with inexpensive parts. I love "bypassing" manufacturer's recommendations. "Recommendations=Outrageous Prices=Profits". Not necessary. We just learn how to get around them. Wes! You and I think alike! It is all about doing it as inexpensively as possible. Without cutting corners. So easy to do. So many, even sometimes superior parts, can be obtained, if not close to equal, for a fraction of the cost of OEM. Not always good quality, though. That is the "learning" part! (No pun intended). :-) I am "preaching to the Choir".
I had to do a similar job in a corolla. It eventually burned a couple of the exhaust valves, and I had to replace the head. Certainly not a fun job to do in a backyard. It was a pain, but I did it with the engine in the car.
That's a nice little DOHC 16 valve 4-banger too bad they had an engineering problem then expect the owner to foot the bill. My little Suzuki Samurai could use one of those. Thanks for taking us along Wes.
My first car was a 1974 Honda Accord hatchback. By the time I was done with it, it took 1qrt of oil every time I took on fuel. I carried a case of the cheapest 10W30 sold on the shelf. I still miss that car. It had some options that I like very much. It also handled very well. 30+ mpg was great too.
The first year for the Honda Accord in the United States anyway was 1976. It was offered as a Hatchback for I think several years and then eventually it became a 4-door. At least that's what Wikipedia says. But you're right I do remember the 1976 model being an excellent car and it was very sought-after years later
@Alan Pearce SEEM pretty confident -NOT- seam pretty confident You need to read more BOOKs and learn correct English. How you make errors with such simple words is unbelievable for someone your age. Age 7 students in my English classes do not make such mistakes. They academically outclass you. Know that and educate your-self. And NO it's not a TYPO which is easily recognized. So no excuses. And don't waste your time in reply. I don't want to know. You have to help your-self. My job is done.
Sorry Andrew I didn’t mean to offend you, fuck you dick head, have I spelt it correctly, 😁😁😁😁 I couldn’t give a flying fuck about spelling or your opinion either, 👌
Special tools needed for this job: Fuel line disconnect - amzn.to/2PaARlB Double Hex Socket for Head Bolts - amzn.to/2DnURMU Pliers for Coolant Hose Clamps - amzn.to/2It1lNP Socket for Oil Filter Nipple - amzn.to/2Iyo1wb
You want excessive oil consumption? Owned a 1996 Saturn SL2, owner manual stated "one quart of oil per tank of gas is Normal". I learned to check oil !!!
Found myself here through the RUclips wormhole of recommended vids. I’ve been binge watching during my vacation. Mustie1 will be jealous I’ve spent so much time here on this channel lol. I’m a gear head but not at your level. I’ve learned quite a bit already and hope to learn more. Be safe during the pandemic.
Wes, I love it, a standard end wrench, you tighten the bolt to a comfortable tightness then say "Click" and half america thinks that it is a toque wrench which I have done too but I forget the part "click" so I will add that to my conversation/LOL, good job so far but if I could, I would order a "ARP" stud and put a nut on top of it since it is not a special stretch to fit tighten bolt for about twenty dollars as they know what they have and its quick and easy. They have every thread and length bolt you can want. Years ago there was a nuts and fasteners place that when the owner died, they wholesaled everything by the pound out the door and I bought about three thousand pounds of bolts still in boxes for five hundred dollars or what the scrapper offered. I had every bolt for years, it was just finding a place for them to stay
I bought an 04 Ford Ranger with a bad engine. I tore it apart and rebuilt it in my garage. I borrowed the special timing tools from a friend with dealer connections. I kept reading online how even with the tools it's not a recommended home repair. The truck runs great!
I have an 08 Rav4 same as yours and I took care of the oil consumption issue by running Marvel Mystery oil through it for a few hundred miles. Cleaned up the sticking rings and stopped eating oil. Still have it and still runs great! In fact I did a video about this on my channel also showing how anyone can deal with this without having to spend major money and do a complete tear down
Scotty recommends putting sawdust in the motor. I tried it on my mother-in-law's 94 camry. It made sort of a tick tick tick Screeech, Kaboom ! No more oil consumption. No more gas consumption either.
At 18:35, that bastard in your hand there caused some serious grief when I replaced it last summer. You are one ambitious SOB and I don’t mean that in any way negatively! I will soon need to deal with this same issue.
Yeah it's not easy to get the tensioner off with the engine in place. You can do it. You have to remove the upper engine mount and either lift the engine up a bit or push it over a bit.
Only minutes in, and you've called the RAV4 a hot-rod, and when referring to the Toyota techs, you say "if they can do it, we can do it".... I wonder if you're subscribed to a certain personable RUclips automotive technician? Thumbs up, man
Quality work Wes loved he detail mate just a tip my engine stand kept moving round so I replaced the original wheels with locking wheels just made life easier working my way through the series
Over the years I have had several oil pans rust through. Rather than pay for a new (or gently used) pan I had them sandblasted on the exterior and then layered fiberglass matte over. Followed up with Tremclad ( I like red) and NO further problem. Thanks for the tips I have garnered from your videos.
Wes I'm new to your video and found your narration very interesting I particularly like your honesty in the pricing and find it interesting . YR presentation & shop R well thought out, thanks
You can save money by replacing the rings only,and increase the size or number of the holes in the pistons. You can also weld a universal cat ,or a used one,and not buy a new one. Indicating you have a wideband o² sensor would be useful to understand quicker. narrowband and wideband are both "air fuel ratio",and more precisely oxygen sensors first. I thought at first you just had the sensors plugs mixed up,and then seeing the 3.2 volts made me understand it was a wideband.
The converter is built into the exhaust manifold, so it would be tricky to weld in a replacement and keep things lined up. For $300 I'll just buy a new one.
@@WatchWesWork You can gut it,and move the universal converter further,like the two sensors bungs if you want. Just to say that you are not limited to one specific location.
My 2006 Scion tC uses W5W30 oil. It looks like Toyota might have made some engine changes in this year. There are 2 different serpentine belts made for this model year. People have told me my engine does not have excessive oil consumption but it does. There was no recall on my year. Doing engine soaks have reduced the amount of oil consumption but you really need a second car to drive while doing this. 176K miles and it still runs good.
My sister’s 2009 Camry is doing the same thing. I just looked at it last night and believed it was something internal. Then this vid randomly came up as a suggestion before I had even researched it. Looks like I may be going back into auto repair. Lol
@@WatchWesWork Ok. I might have misread the TSB. It does have a 2AZ stamp on the block though. Either way I’ll speak with the dealership tomorrow and find out. No external leaks, but it’s consuming around 2qts per 1,000 miles. It has around 173,000 on it also. Thank you for the reply! Btw, if I do end up doing this job, what service manual did you use? And was the new ring gaps within spec from Toyota?
I have the 2009. New evap canister (from Matrix). New Radiator. New CV's. New alternator. New Water Pump. New oil Filter Housing (Blew out 8 hours from home).
Hell yeah! That's some serious DIY action there. You don't do it because it's easy you do it because you know it's right when it's done. I would have liked to seen the removal of the idler pulley bearings. I've got to replace the bearings on my Tacoma. Can't wait to see her purring like a kitten. Lol 'holding down the couch'
I have a 2007 RAV4 Sports, I love the vehicle so much, everything you are saying, i have the same problem that your RAV4 has, mine has the same oil burning problem and it start burning majority of oil around the same mileage that you mention on yours, good thing I bought extended warranty at the time and they had to replace the engine two times because of oil consumption problems
We have a 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe. About 75000 miles I noticed when I changed the oil that it seemed like it was low. So I kept a check on it and I was adding about a quart per 1000 miles. Hyundai changed the motor and added a lifetime warranty on it. Not sure what the issue was, but would be nice to find out.
I’m in Australia, our rav has 270,000 kms , goes through, about 10 litres every 10,000 kms, it’s a great vehicle otherwise, I’m looking to do the same thing, I think I’ll change the timing chain while I go, as it looks to be a life of the engine component. This job will probably cost me $2000 Australian. Thanks for posting , I’m actually looking forward to tackling it.
My 2006 RAV4 (now with 117,300 miles) has been CONSISTENTLY using one quart of oil every 600 miles - due to defective pistons, a KNOWN MANUFACTURING PROBLEM. Toyota had to know which cars had the faulty engines and should have issued a recall for ALL of them, but they didn’t. Rather, Toyota waited for customers to complain of excessive oil consumption, and then promised to test and then rebuild oil consuming engines on an extended warranty basis for cars less than 10 years old and with no more than 150,000 miles. An Eastern Pennsylvania Toyota dealer performed THREE oil consumption tests on my RAV4, the first two of which were done within the Extended Warranty ‘window’. The FIRST TEST (2/29/16) PASSED, but the car kept using one quart of oil every 600 miles AFTERWARDS. I bought a case of factory recommended 5W20 Synthetic Blend oil to keep the engine properly filled, as needed - about every 600 miles. I am still doing this today. The SECOND TEST PASSED (6/30/16). I watched the technician put oil into the car from a previously poured pitcher (oil viscosity unknown). The car burned just over half a quart during the test, BUT continued to use one quart every 600 miles AFTERWARDS. When this dealer changed the oil on 3/20/18, there was NO OIL on the dipstick after just 528 miles! None! Nada! Zilch! I opened a case with Toyota Corporate who suggested the dealer conduct a THIRD test. To ensure that the proper oil was being used, I MYSELF provided five quarts of (5W20) synthetic blend oil, and watched while the dealer’s technician placed 4.5 quarts of it into the engine. In doing so, the technician quipped that the test results would not matter anyway as the extended warranty program was over by then. With the factory recommended oil that I provided, the THIRD TEST INDEED FAILED - the car burned over 2 quarts in 1250 miles, and this time the red oil lamp flickered for the first time! When I called them back, Toyota Corporate told me that the Extended Warranty coverage had lapsed for my car, and I should ‘take the matter up with the dealer.’ The Toyota service manager promised to check with ‘his man’ at Toyota to see what could be done, but never replied back, nor did the Toyota Dealer Principal after I sent him a certified letter, followed by two telephone calls. I’ve even e-mailed the Toyota CEO (Mr. Toyoda - that’s supposedly his real name!) in Japan - no reply! To recap, the first two tests PASSED (when the dealership said they provided the factory recommended oil) and the third FAILED (when I provided the factory recommended oil). The only plausible explanation is that the technicians - for some unknown reason - placed the wrong viscosity oil in the car for the first two tests. I know they didn’t overfill it because I watched Now, I am currently ‘stuck’ with a car that has lost most of its resale value as I can’t in good faith sell it in its current condition, a car that can be dangerous to drive should the oil level drop too low, and a car whose catalytic converter is most likely to fail soon (an expensive repair) because it is absorbing the excessive amounts of oil blown into the combustion chambers by the clogged pistons. I have owned many new cars over the years, including two other Toyota’s (1999 and 2002) that were purchased brand new. They never burned oil between oil changes at 3,000 miles. This is a consummate disgrace from a car manufacturer that touts quality! A Better Business Bureau complaint was filed to which this dealer never responded. Their rating even dropped from an A to a C Minus, and they don’t seem to care.
I have a 2009 Matrix with the same problem. I appreciate this video very much. It makes me feel better knowing I'm not crazy and that this is real issue that can be fixed.
It is interesting that I just had someone try to sell me their 2006 Rav with same issue! 125,000 miles on it. Glad I saw this since I forgot that Cat probably will need replacing also! (A extra cost I didn't factor in my quick math in my head estimate) They wont sell it cheap enough so I guess I will look for another project.
Thank you for all the info regarding this RAV4 problem. I have the same exact issue to what you describe in lower mileage of 122000 bay are traffic miles. Now we can decide to what to do to it. have it fix or trade it to the same dealer we bought it from. once again thanks for one of the most informative video I've seen. And showing how to be done properly.
Yes, it's a tricky financial decision. This particular car is probably worth somewhere between $4k and $5k. It would be tough to pay $3500 to a dealer to make this repair. I would think an independent shop would be cheaper, but if you are in the Bay area, cheap is probably out of the question!
Not sure if its already been mentioned but this is only a big issue with 2007-2010 Camrys. Toyota designed the piston seals wrong and its the root cause of the issue. They were sued for this issue and as a result fixed many peoples engines as a result.
Wes, what's your method to know which fasteners go with which components when it's time to reassemble? Especially with a large undertaking such as this project? Would love to hear from you.
Ahh, for the old Ford V8 Flathead, even it did have a tendency to overheat. At least you didn't have three hours of crap to remove before you could start to remove the engine.
Well with that oil left on the walls - lower chance of scuffing - LOL. Might as well fix it - since you know where yours has been. Select fit pistons to adjust for how the boring tool was feeling that day. Normal industry practice. I agree that the CAT is at least coated heavily with carbon. That HEGO switching was pretty clear to not have any impact from the CAT element (its dead or clogged)- should be much more lazy as you inferred. Rest assured that the oil consumption was all your fault....LOL. Anything breaks at my house my wife finds me singularly responsible. LOL. Yup she was pumping plenty of oil. Volvo had similar issues with seizing oil rings on the old red block - in their case it was lack of maintenance. Nice they used full floating wrist pins - good stuff. Good for you taking on that tensioner $190 is a bit steep for an old piece. They had to buy the bearings somewhere and you found them just like T did. Try the Loc-tite gel in the tubes. I like it and easier to control.
The different pistons are for differing sizes of wrist pins. I'm not sure if it's intentional or some kind of scrap reduction program. I'm sure the cat is whipped. If I let it idle too long the downstream O2 actually stops generating voltage because it gets too cold.
Yeah we color graded the bores in manufacturing and marked the blocks with a colored marker to signal the piston rack to pull from. Wrist pins is another matter. Great stuff keep me coming Wes.
Good morning Wes. Now just yesterday my wife's son-in-law was telling me to stay away from Roberts-Auto-Repair because he gave him some jobs to do with his cars and the jobs came back Incomplete and Roberts still took his money and never finished the jobs he started. So for now I have no other choice but to try changing my oil to a more heavy duty oil.
Hey Wes excellent video I have the same problem with my new honda accord and the dealership here say it's normal. I wonder if honda has the same problem with there car's also .Can't wait for part 2 thanks for sharing.
I don't know. It's not an uncommon issue. I'm not sure how Toyota got away with no recalling these engines, but at least they offered the warranty program.
@@WatchWesWork Hello.. nice video.. i live in Europe and i bought Toyota rav 4 2008 year 2.4 vvti. My question is when can I expect this malfunction or malfunction of the water pump or steering head, since it has only gone 25,000 miles .. and thanks for your reply..
I've got an 09 Scion XB 181k city miles (Uber car). Same engine, same problem. A quart every 400 miles is probably about where I'm at. It's truly been an outstanding car for me in all other areas, but the oil consumption is a thorn in my side. I'm babysitting the oil level. I REALLY should have took it in for the oil consumption test when it was eligible. At the time it was making me a lot of money so not having my car for a week meant a loss in income. Foolish move. Will pay for that mistake many times over.
I’d throw some 5w-30 in it. That should help if it’s burning. I had a 99 Tacoma with the same engine and that was the recommended oil weight. Everyone going to 20w oil is for fuel economy only because in a lab they can get .1% better fuel economy due to the thinner oil.
Wes I know this is 2yrs later but 4yrs ago my 2009 accord (same oil burning issue) was useing 1qt of oil every 1,000mi. The honda repair was to replace the piston rings. I decided to run rotella t6 5w40 in it and changed the oil/filter every time it was low (1,000mi) after doing this about 8-9x the oil consumption has gone down to 0.5qt every 3,500mi..and all I ever did was change the oil. My vehicle has 37k more miles now and I didnt even remove the valve cover.
You know how it is, Wes. Once you get in there, everything makes sense. Just as long as someone wasn't in there before you! Other than Toyota. Someone "armed" with an adjustable wrench, a hammer, and no experience can be a real nightmare. Add a pair of wire cutters and you have absolute Terror! Especially if their "ammo" are those three sided crimp/stab connectors. I am glad your wife's car is "virgin". :-) Paint some used oil on the rust. A little goes a long way.
Just did a leakdown test on my gf's RAV4, which burns about a quart every 1000 miles. 2 cylinders are at 10 percent, one is at 7, and one is at 25 percent. If the oil rings get clogged and don't clean the oil off the cylinder walls, would this cause a leakdown test to fail? I'm thinking that it could have wall scoring or worn rings, rather than just clogged oil rings.
Hi Wes. I have always tried to replace the bearings in idler pulleys. Yes I am cheap : ) . I have been watching some of the videos I had missed. Liked,Shared. All my best.
The reason the Toyota mechanics don't replace anything else in the factory repair is they only get reimbursed by Toyota for this very specific service. Toyota doesn't pay the dealer for preemptive/preventive repairs. Lucky for you, this is a non-interference engine so it won't destroy itself if the belt/chain fails.
I'm not so sure the 2AZ in non interference. In fact, I've seen one that took a hit to the intake valves. Maybe that was from carbon build up, but they are not totally safe.
11/10/21, Wes…I wished I had some knowledge to do this. I happen to run across your videos. have a 2007 Camry that is burning a lot of oil as you described. I don’t think I can do what you did, when I found out about this I had 165,000+ miles on my vehicle 3-4 years ago. I believe the manager said the mileage was cut off at less then 150,000 for the recalled, which I never had a letter sent. I’m sitting at 235,000 right now and was thinking about trading it in for Camry a little newer then mine. What’s a good year to get without this oil consumption problems. Thanks
@C T - Toyota started replacing these engines around 2010. The engine you want to get in the newer Camry is the 2.5L 2AR-FE. This is essentially the redesign of the oil burning engine covered in this video.
David Klimmek I owned 6 other makes before buying a Toyota and had too many issues with all of them. Once I bought my first Toyota, my issues went away. Real world ownership made up my mind. Toyota ever since and my wallet has thanked me every year on my toyota birthday.
@@sirsweetness8332 yea I hear ya...magical vehicles. Nobody else be in business an thriving bud if what u say is norm. We buy Ford trucks & Lincoln SUVs never been let dwn. Next up '19 Linc Aviator AWD reserve for wife.
i had a 2001 corolla, and it got to the point i was putting a quart in every 2 days. as soon as it got to a quart and a half every day and the exuast went(the cat blew out), it was time to get rid of it. It was a good car otherwise, it got my cross Canada many many times. It had near 1 500 000 miles (around 2 414 016 KM). My local Toyota dealership was amazed on the mileage.
I did one of these 2.4 and peeled all the wiring harnesses back towards the drivers side and also just pulled all the injectors with the fuel rail and left the fuel line attached. Slick as a gut - these engines are historic for pulling the threads on the head bolt holes - I bought the kit for rebuilding the threads in the head bolt holes at $513.00. That sucked. So I rebuilt the entire engine - the #4 hole had too much taper so the block had to be bored. My learning experience with this engine is never try to use aftermarket bearings on the bottom end. I was coming up with too much oil clearence when the bottom was assembled .. I discovered that the Chinese made bearing shells were 1.1 thousands per shell too thin - so with all machine work exactly right the oil clearence were still too big ... with the Chinese bearings the excess was a little over 2 thousands too much. I took a special micrometer with a ball end for measuring curved surfaces and discovered that the Chinese can't even reverse engineer a simple babette bearing. I see other U-tubers were pulling the engine and transmission to rebuild the engine... I agree with you I just pulled the engine and left the transmission in the car... nice video.
LOL, sounds like a 2 smoker, add a quart of oil with every fuel up! My Volvo was behaving like that until the head/valve job due to a burned valve. It started with a blown turbo and never got better.
You really need to keep the clean oil to the turbo and read what the manufacturer says about cool down for turbo. My neighbour owned a commercial diesel and he never read the manual that recommended 2 min idle before shutting down. Turbo stopped working some time ago...
I was wondering the same. With 200k miles and the pistons being 60 bucks each I would have replaced them if I had to pull them anyway. But if they checked good why not?
It's a good question and I don't know the answer. Visually, I don't really see a difference between the old pistons and the new ones. They have the same number of holes in about the same location. The oil ring is totally different though. The old piston used a two piece (really a one piece) oil ring. The new piston uses a 3 piece design. From what the parts man told me, after the warranty parts were in production, they stopped selling the original piston design. I don't know if the new 3 piece ring design will work with the old piston. Either way, I probably could have just cleaned the holes and replaced the rings and the engine would have made it to the end of its natural life. It never burned oil for the first 150,000 miles. I doubt it has another 150,000 miles in it.
@@WatchWesWork 3 rings to force more pressure into the holes. Wooo-Hoooo!! Ever change the PCV every 30k miles as required?? Because if not you'll burn oil bro
Now that you have done that process, is there any way to replace the pistons without removing the engine? I've seen other videos on 1AZ engines where guys could get to the connecting rod nuts from underneath the car. I am assuming the answer is no on the 2AZ but figured I'd ask anyway.
I am watching you pull the battery out and I am thinking, "Holy Crap! He is pulling the whole engine out. Wow. AND taking it apart, and putting it back together, reinstalling it, and it will work perfectly." (No, I have not watched part two. I already know. This is Wes I am writing about).
Just curious, are you formerly trained or self taught? You explain the content that is easy to understand. Thanks. Its too bad that Toyota put stipulations on this failure, rather than just fix their error.
Wasn't it possible to remove the pistons from under the engine and change the rings without pulling the engine out of the car and all that? I have seen this done once and since this is a high millage car you could do that in a few hours.
Good morning it's 5am 9/23/20 and I could not sleep because I really don't know what to do. I'm willing to drive to Chicago Illinois to get my car fixed the right way, but first I have to find out how many miles is it to you and the best route to take. You see what's brothering me is that I found someone that could maybe fix my problem and I believe that your the man but why do you have to live so far away. I would have to make this a vacation trip and stay in a Hotel until your finished and that would be another expense. I have mechanics out here but all they want to do is pull my engine out and put a rebuilt engine and I'm not going for that because my engine only has 69,546 miles and after watching your videos I know more or less who I want to fix my Camry. So let me see how many miles it is to you and the best possible route. I will get back to you when I could figure this out, once again Thank You for letting me share my thoughts with you.
I would really discourage you from doing that. There are just so many things that can go wrong. It would be much better to find a local mechanic who can do the job. Any Toyota dealership should have the tools and knowledge, though it will cost more. But the total cost would surely be lower.
..."not a factory-trained Toyota Tech"...You are, however, an obviously highly-skilled and experienced general mechanic and tech with a good head on your shoulders and some great training somewhere along the line. The fact that you are so humble about your abilities makes it that much more impressive.
I'm competent enough to do that job, but I don't want to give the impression that I've done 30 of them and I know every trick.
2007 Rav4 in my stable, same engine, and guess what. 1 quart gone after, you guessed it, 400 miles. So, I'm intently watching these videos. Thanks for this.
Good morning Wes. Like I said I'm the early bird that catches the worm lol. Well I did my research and you are 825 miles from me and driving time 12 hours and 32 minutes for a young normal person the reason why I say this is because I'm not normal. I'm 71 years young and I have lung and brain cancers. There has to be a mechanic that does the kind of work you do closer to where I live. Well I'm a subscriber to your channel and if you don't mind I would like to keep you informed on the changing of the oil consumption, like changing from 0 W 20 too 10 W 40 to see if I burn less oil. As always Thank You very much Michael Buffolino Jr.
I'd love to have a beer with you man. You seem like such a nice guy. 👍
Agreed!
Me too
I also have a 2007 RV4 LIMITED with 90000 miles, I guess I need to look forward to doing this repair in the future -:) , Thanks for the Video and perfect explanation.
The video presentation is excellent.
The cadence is perfect making it easy to hear every word clearly.
Top marks for not rushing the explanations.
One tip though, wear some kind of gloves you can work with.
Prevents any serious injury and just as important to keep the hands clean.
No woman likes grubby oil damaged hands and fingers on her or inside her.
Besides that you risk dermatitis, which is painful when the skin begins cracking and
leaves open sores as you age.
I know of two mechanics who have this problem, and one other who died 15 or so years
who also suffered with this.
His reasoning was as he mentioned . it was not 'Manly' in his tine to use protective
hand cream or gloves --- Society pressure to conform to stupid ideology is dangerous
and it over-rides the logical thought process for many people just to be a social conformist.
Working in gloves is a pain. Have you ever tried starting a bolt deep in an engine cavity you can't see and can barely fit your your thumb and index finger?
Great respect for fixing the old tensioner. Really feels like you beat the system when you can do stuff like that.
Ditto 🙌
It’s so refreshing to see the bearing replacement. Very clever and resourceful.
I went to work for Toyota almost 30 years ago. Needless to say, they’ve changed so much that it’s really not the same company. Some things changed for the better, some not so much.
We were fixing oil ring issues on Toyota long before there was any “fix” from Toyota. Oil ring gunking up was common on certain of their car engines, Trucks never had an issue. Our fix? Pull the pistons , clean them, and drill a few extra drainage holes in the pistons and install Hastings or Perfect Circle rings. Lightly hone the cylinders and re-install. Toyota engine blocks are very wear resistant in the cylinders. Light honing is sufficient.
I purchased a 4AFE equipped Corolla that blew up because the college student let her run low on oil. I spent about $300 on parts and I’ve been running it since 2003. Doesn’t burn a drop after 150K miles. I just lapped the valves and put new guide seals on the head and that was that.
I don’t like Toyota’s use of NPR rings for rebuild work. They’re too low of tension for my liking.
Running a HDEO like Rotella T-5 10W30 aids in keeping the internals cleaner as well. Your HDEO are generally a good bit higher in detergents/dispersants and will keep ring pack buildup to a minimum.
I apologize for the random question, but I got a 2005 Buick LeSabre as my first car, but I was thinking about selling it and getting a Camry or Corolla whenever I have the sufficient funds to do so. I was thinking about either an 05-08 Corolla or 05-06 Camry, but I wasn't too sure what would be the best. As someone who worked for Toyota for so long, what year model do you think is the best/most reliable for the Corolla or the Camry?
Billybob Schneider Of the two I’d choose the Corolla. Other than minor issues they are hard to beat. That Buick with the 3.8L has been known to run hundreds of thousands of miles too. Some people say they get great fuel economy too. I had one customer that had one as a second car and I never did anything to it other than regular maintenance.
The biggest thing about buying a car is finding one that has been serviced properly. I’d try to avoid lease turn-ins or rental car turn-ins. They generally get rode hard and put up wet.
@@prevost8686 I just didn't want to keep driving an "old lady" car. I should be thankful for getting a car bought for me (after waiting 10 months of broken promises). Anyways, that's not the point. After I got it, it'd get 13 mpg combined, so I brought it to my grandfather's mechanic and they replaced the thermostat, an engine mount, and fixed a rear alignment issue for like $700. Had to get the tires rotated as well. Recently had to replace another engine mount which cost another $300 because they only replaced one the previous time for some reason (which didn't to anything to fix the jolting when I put it in reverse or drive), then had to replace the spark plugs, and I need to replace some other things. That was a jumbled mess, but basically what I'm saying is I just want to sell this and get a more reliable car with better gas mileage because I'm tired of dealing with doing all sorts of repairs that should have been done before the car was put up for sale in the first place.
I Prevost, I am very impressed with your 30 years of experience at Toyota and want some advice from you. I have a 2007 Toyota Rav4 burning 2 quarts oil every 1k miles. I have removed and disassembled the engine. My experience and gut instinct is to send the block to machine shop to hot tank and hone, but the the Toyota Re-call TSB says I should not hone the cylinders because there is a liner or coating on it. Should I send it to machine shop for honing? I plan to get the updated pistons from the re-call and finish the rebuild. I have rebuilt a few Honda 4 cylinder motors in the past so familiar with the overall process. Would greatly appreciate your expertise and advise in this area.
@@kesu90 The updated pistons and rings will correct the issue. It’s not necessary to do anything further.
I've often wondered whether the newer thin oils will tolerate the expected increase in ring gap as an engine ages. If tolerance is lower, the engine is expected to die sooner. You don't have to be a cynic to know that early death fits nicely with the business model of manufacturers in general. This is gonna be a fun repair to follow along.
That is just being a realist, not a cynic....haha
Love the torque spec on the pulley. The highly calibrated elbow.
I heard the click.
Your wife helps about the same amount as mine. Her Honda Accord had a coolant leak and she cooked the whole engine a few years ago. I was lucky I found an engine cheap and swapped it in a day. It's a big job. Nice work Wes
That's what I was afraid of. She's like a typical driver, if the car starts, it must be fine. I had to constantly check the oil for her so we didn't lose the engine. I'm hoping after this she can go back to ignoring it.
@Heywood Jablowme god damn it 😂
Well actually you cook the engine because you are responsible for her car. Unless she's a mechanic of course. It's something that goes with being married and you need to step up to the pump and take responsibility for it
Wes like I have been saying if you wasn't that far away from me I would have you do this job only because I saw you doing it to your wife's Rave 4 and I'm being totally honest with you. Your the man that I would want to do my Camry.
Nice work brother. Dude does a better job than most toyota certification mechanics. I wish I had a shop like you. But seriously nice job...well done.
ditto
Toyota certified "mechanics" don't dooo....... anything! So that's not saying much. All Toyota does is get you to run the clock on your warranty. They're idiots.
So much for legendary Toyota quality.
This amount of oil consumption on any car engine should not be considered normal.
It's a cop out from admitting they have a poorly engineered and designed engine.
17:34 Wow, that wreck really did a number on your transfer case!
Snapped it right off!
Mine is doing the same thing. It's a 2004 with 255k on it. I'm looking for a low mile used motor. I don't want junk the car, it is in very good shape and like yours, it is a very reliable car with no drama. Unlike yours, mine has no HVAC issues, Diff leaks, and last year in my driveway I replaced the struts, sway bar links, and I now need a resonator and a cat convertor.
Did your catalytic converters ever go bad? Wes mentioned his catalytic converters were toasted in the video.
There are so many things I have "re-manned" in my life with inexpensive parts. I love "bypassing" manufacturer's recommendations. "Recommendations=Outrageous Prices=Profits". Not necessary. We just learn how to get around them.
Wes! You and I think alike! It is all about doing it as inexpensively as possible. Without cutting corners. So easy to do. So many, even sometimes superior parts, can be obtained, if not close to equal, for a fraction of the cost of OEM. Not always good quality, though. That is the "learning" part! (No pun intended). :-) I am "preaching to the Choir".
You can do lots of things if you have the right tools.
But you need to be experienced enough to understand what is a good fix.
I had to do a similar job in a corolla. It eventually burned a couple of the exhaust valves, and I had to replace the head. Certainly not a fun job to do in a backyard. It was a pain, but I did it with the engine in the car.
That's a nice little DOHC 16 valve 4-banger too bad they had an engineering problem then expect the owner to foot the bill. My little Suzuki Samurai could use one of those. Thanks for taking us along Wes.
It's a well built engine, it just had one little oversight.
My first car was a 1974 Honda Accord hatchback. By the time I was done with it, it took 1qrt of oil every time I took on fuel. I carried a case of the cheapest 10W30 sold on the shelf. I still miss that car. It had some options that I like very much. It also handled very well. 30+ mpg was great too.
The first year for the Honda Accord in the United States anyway was 1976. It was offered as a Hatchback for I think several years and then eventually it became a 4-door. At least that's what Wikipedia says. But you're right I do remember the 1976 model being an excellent car and it was very sought-after years later
When working as a mechanic I was always told a mechanic's car would always be the worst running lol
Lol, yeah. _Never_ buy a car from a mechanic!
Yeah, it's true. Kind of like the cobblers children going barefoot.
Glad you had the lighting upgraded in the shop since back then :-)
Good luck Wes, I doubt you’ll need it though, you seam pretty confident with it, nice job with the pulley.
Al.
@Alan Pearce
SEEM pretty confident -NOT- seam pretty confident
You need to read more BOOKs and learn correct English.
How you make errors with such simple words is unbelievable for someone your age.
Age 7 students in my English classes do not make such mistakes.
They academically outclass you. Know that and educate your-self.
And NO it's not a TYPO which is easily recognized. So no excuses.
And don't waste your time in reply. I don't want to know.
You have to help your-self. My job is done.
Sorry Andrew I didn’t mean to offend you, fuck you dick head, have I spelt it correctly, 😁😁😁😁 I couldn’t give a flying fuck about spelling or your opinion either, 👌
Special tools needed for this job:
Fuel line disconnect - amzn.to/2PaARlB
Double Hex Socket for Head Bolts - amzn.to/2DnURMU
Pliers for Coolant Hose Clamps - amzn.to/2It1lNP
Socket for Oil Filter Nipple - amzn.to/2Iyo1wb
You want excessive oil consumption? Owned a 1996 Saturn SL2, owner manual stated "one quart of oil per tank of gas is Normal". I learned to check oil !!!
Found myself here through the RUclips wormhole of recommended vids. I’ve been binge watching during my vacation. Mustie1 will be jealous I’ve spent so much time here on this channel lol. I’m a gear head but not at your level. I’ve learned quite a bit already and hope to learn more. Be safe during the pandemic.
Wes, I love it, a standard end wrench, you tighten the bolt to a comfortable tightness then say "Click" and half america thinks that it is a toque wrench which I have done too but I forget the part "click" so I will add that to my conversation/LOL, good job so far but if I could, I would order a "ARP" stud and put a nut on top of it since it is not a special stretch to fit tighten bolt for about twenty dollars as they know what they have and its quick and easy. They have every thread and length bolt you can want. Years ago there was a nuts and fasteners place that when the owner died, they wholesaled everything by the pound out the door and I bought about three thousand pounds of bolts still in boxes for five hundred dollars or what the scrapper offered. I had every bolt for years, it was just finding a place for them to stay
Wes if it can be fixed you will do it , nice work !
I bought an 04 Ford Ranger with a bad engine. I tore it apart and rebuilt it in my garage. I borrowed the special timing tools from a friend with dealer connections. I kept reading online how even with the tools it's not a recommended home repair. The truck runs great!
I have an 08 Rav4 same as yours and I took care of the oil consumption
issue by running Marvel Mystery oil through it for a few hundred miles.
Cleaned up the sticking rings and stopped eating oil. Still have it and
still runs great! In fact I did a video about this on my channel also
showing how anyone can deal with this without having to spend major
money and do a complete tear down
That might work for minor oil consumption issues. This engine was well past that point.
when you see this problem.. on 50k miles ? 100,000 miles ?
Can I see the method you you gone through to handle the problem becauseI have Toyota car with problem of oil burning
Scotty recommends putting sawdust in the motor. I tried it on my mother-in-law's 94 camry.
It made sort of a tick tick tick
Screeech, Kaboom ! No more oil consumption. No more gas consumption either.
I recommend using popcorn. Once the engine blows you can have a snack!
That's F%^*+ing funny Bernie,,,,,,,,,LMAO
At 18:35, that bastard in your hand there caused some serious grief when I replaced it last summer. You are one ambitious SOB and I don’t mean that in any way negatively! I will soon need to deal with this same issue.
Yeah it's not easy to get the tensioner off with the engine in place. You can do it. You have to remove the upper engine mount and either lift the engine up a bit or push it over a bit.
Part one was very interesting, Can hardly wait until part 2
Only minutes in, and you've called the RAV4 a hot-rod, and when referring to the Toyota techs, you say "if they can do it, we can do it".... I wonder if you're subscribed to a certain personable RUclips automotive technician? Thumbs up, man
Of course I am.
Quality work Wes loved he detail mate just a tip my engine stand kept moving round so I replaced the original wheels with locking wheels just made life easier working my way through the series
if they can do it we can do it!!!
love it man.. i have an 04 camry 2.4 with 237k! still rolling]!
xkoreanxpowerx me too. Just today replaced the valve cover gasket. Part was $21.00, took about 45 min.my oil change shop wanted over $400.00 to do it.
Over the years I have had several oil pans rust through. Rather than pay for a new (or gently used) pan I had them sandblasted on the exterior and then layered fiberglass matte over. Followed up with Tremclad ( I like red) and NO further problem. Thanks for the tips I have garnered from your videos.
Wes I'm new to your video and found your narration very interesting I particularly like your honesty in the pricing and find it interesting . YR presentation & shop R well thought out, thanks
Your video for sure was helpful for me. Thank you very
Much for sharing prices
You can save money by replacing the rings only,and increase the size or number of the holes in the pistons.
You can also weld a universal cat ,or a used one,and not buy a new one.
Indicating you have a wideband o² sensor would be useful to understand quicker.
narrowband and wideband are both "air fuel ratio",and more precisely oxygen sensors first.
I thought at first you just had the sensors plugs mixed up,and then seeing the 3.2 volts made me understand it was a wideband.
The converter is built into the exhaust manifold, so it would be tricky to weld in a replacement and keep things lined up. For $300 I'll just buy a new one.
@@WatchWesWork
You can gut it,and move the universal converter further,like the two sensors bungs if you want.
Just to say that you are not limited to one specific location.
Very informative. Thanks posting the video! My mom has the same vehicle and it burns some oil. Will be switching to 5w-30 conventional.
Great video! Really great learning tool. I came over here and subscribed from Unstoppable Morgan's channel. Kudos to you for helping folks out.
“I will torque that to factory spec. CLICK!” LMAO xD
1822 B.V. 27:59, if anyone is curious
The ol' calibrated wrist
@@FaustoTheBoozehound l
°
My 2006 Scion tC uses W5W30 oil. It looks like Toyota might have made some engine changes in this year. There are 2 different serpentine belts made for this model year. People have told me my engine does not have excessive oil consumption but it does. There was no recall on my year. Doing engine soaks have reduced the amount of oil consumption but you really need a second car to drive while doing this. 176K miles and it still runs good.
My sister’s 2009 Camry is doing the same thing. I just looked at it last night and believed it was something internal. Then this vid randomly came up as a suggestion before I had even researched it. Looks like I may be going back into auto repair. Lol
I think that's a different engine.
@@WatchWesWork Ok. I might have misread the TSB. It does have a 2AZ stamp on the block though. Either way I’ll speak with the dealership tomorrow and find out. No external leaks, but it’s consuming around 2qts per 1,000 miles. It has around 173,000 on it also.
Thank you for the reply! Btw, if I do end up doing this job, what service manual did you use? And was the new ring gaps within spec from Toyota?
@@johnhawks7365 2 quarts every 1000 miles is frustrating. Thanks for posting.
I have the 2009. New evap canister (from Matrix). New Radiator. New CV's. New alternator. New Water Pump. New oil Filter Housing (Blew out 8 hours from home).
Cool thank you Wes, like you said there isn't to much info on RUclips about the fix. All video are greatly appeached. Matt C.
Nice story telling and good technical quality on video and sound! Keep it up!!
Hell yeah! That's some serious DIY action there. You don't do it because it's easy you do it because you know it's right when it's done. I would have liked to seen the removal of the idler pulley bearings. I've got to replace the bearings on my Tacoma. Can't wait to see her purring like a kitten. Lol 'holding down the couch'
Thanks for this one. Very educational. Keep up the good work! 💪🏻
I have a 2007 RAV4 Sports, I love the vehicle so much, everything you are saying, i have the same problem that your RAV4 has, mine has the same oil burning problem and it start burning majority of oil around the same mileage that you mention on yours, good thing I bought extended warranty at the time and they had to replace the engine two times because of oil consumption problems
We have a 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe. About 75000 miles I noticed when I changed the oil that it seemed like it was low. So I kept a check on it and I was adding about a quart per 1000 miles. Hyundai changed the motor and added a lifetime warranty on it. Not sure what the issue was, but would be nice to find out.
I’m in Australia, our rav has 270,000 kms , goes through, about 10 litres every 10,000 kms, it’s a great vehicle otherwise, I’m looking to do the same thing, I think I’ll change the timing chain while I go, as it looks to be a life of the engine component. This job will probably cost me $2000 Australian.
Thanks for posting , I’m actually looking forward to tackling it.
My 2006 RAV4 (now with 117,300 miles) has been CONSISTENTLY using one quart of oil every 600 miles - due to defective pistons, a KNOWN MANUFACTURING PROBLEM.
Toyota had to know which cars had the faulty engines and should have issued a recall for ALL of them, but they didn’t. Rather, Toyota waited for customers to complain of excessive oil consumption, and then promised to test and then rebuild oil consuming engines on an extended warranty basis for cars less than 10 years old and with no more than 150,000 miles.
An Eastern Pennsylvania Toyota dealer performed THREE oil consumption tests on my RAV4, the first two of which were done within the Extended Warranty ‘window’.
The FIRST TEST (2/29/16) PASSED, but the car kept using one quart of oil every 600 miles AFTERWARDS. I bought a case of factory recommended 5W20 Synthetic Blend oil to keep the engine properly filled, as needed - about every 600 miles. I am still doing this today.
The SECOND TEST PASSED (6/30/16). I watched the technician put oil into the car from a previously poured pitcher (oil viscosity unknown). The car burned just over half a quart during the test, BUT continued to use one quart every 600 miles AFTERWARDS. When this dealer changed the oil on 3/20/18, there was NO OIL on the dipstick after just 528 miles! None! Nada! Zilch!
I opened a case with Toyota Corporate who suggested the dealer conduct a THIRD test. To ensure that the proper oil was being used, I MYSELF provided five quarts of (5W20) synthetic blend oil, and watched while the dealer’s technician placed 4.5 quarts of it into the engine. In doing so, the technician quipped that the test results would not matter anyway as the extended warranty program was over by then.
With the factory recommended oil that I provided, the THIRD TEST INDEED FAILED - the car burned over 2 quarts in 1250 miles, and this time the red oil lamp flickered for the first time! When I called them back, Toyota Corporate told me that the Extended Warranty coverage had lapsed for my car, and I should ‘take the matter up with the dealer.’
The Toyota service manager promised to check with ‘his man’ at Toyota to see what could be done, but never replied back, nor did the Toyota Dealer Principal after I sent him a certified letter, followed by two telephone calls. I’ve even e-mailed the Toyota CEO (Mr. Toyoda - that’s supposedly his real name!) in Japan - no reply!
To recap, the first two tests PASSED (when the dealership said they provided the factory recommended oil) and the third FAILED (when I provided the factory recommended oil). The only plausible explanation is that the technicians - for some unknown reason - placed the wrong viscosity oil in the car for the first two tests. I know they didn’t overfill it because I watched
Now, I am currently ‘stuck’ with a car that has lost most of its resale value as I can’t in good faith sell it in its current condition, a car that can be dangerous to drive should the oil level drop too low, and a car whose catalytic converter is most likely to fail soon (an expensive repair) because it is absorbing the excessive amounts of oil blown into the combustion chambers by the clogged pistons.
I have owned many new cars over the years, including two other Toyota’s (1999 and 2002) that were purchased brand new. They never burned oil between oil changes at 3,000 miles. This is a consummate disgrace from a car manufacturer that touts quality!
A Better Business Bureau complaint was filed to which this dealer never responded. Their rating even dropped from an A to a C Minus, and they don’t seem to care.
Great job Wes look forward to the next video thanks for sharing 👍🇦🇺
I've progressed to knowing how to change an oil filter. I think this video is a bit ahead of me lol
As Mr Burns says on "The Simpsons"---- EXCELLENT !!!
I have a 2009 Matrix with the same problem. I appreciate this video very much. It makes me feel better knowing I'm not crazy and that this is real issue that can be fixed.
Was typing out a comment about the catalytic converter... then you covered it.
Yeah that's the price we pay for letting the issue go for so long.
@@WatchWesWork I almost wonder if it will burn off once the oil consumption issue is resolved. Highly doubt it though.
It is interesting that I just had someone try to sell me their 2006 Rav with same issue! 125,000 miles on it. Glad I saw this since I forgot that Cat probably will need replacing also! (A extra cost I didn't factor in my quick math in my head estimate) They wont sell it cheap enough so I guess I will look for another project.
Thanks for making this video. Now I am confident that I don't have the tools to do this job.
Doc Holiday had consumption also. Skateboard bearings are very useful!
Thank God you know what you are doing. Very informative video
At least I can make it look like I know what I'm doing!
Thank you for all the info regarding this RAV4 problem. I have the same exact issue to what you describe in lower mileage of 122000 bay are traffic miles. Now we can decide to what to do to it. have it fix or trade it to the same dealer we bought it from. once again thanks for one of the most informative video I've seen. And showing how to be done properly.
Yes, it's a tricky financial decision. This particular car is probably worth somewhere between $4k and $5k. It would be tough to pay $3500 to a dealer to make this repair. I would think an independent shop would be cheaper, but if you are in the Bay area, cheap is probably out of the question!
Not sure if its already been mentioned but this is only a big issue with 2007-2010 Camrys. Toyota designed the piston seals wrong and its the root cause of the issue. They were sued for this issue and as a result fixed many peoples engines as a result.
Excellent video Wes !! Cheers from Canada East Coast .
Wes, what's your method to know which fasteners go with which components when it's time to reassemble? Especially with a large undertaking such as this project? Would love to hear from you.
Ahh, for the old Ford V8 Flathead, even it did have a tendency to overheat. At least you didn't have three hours of crap to remove before you could start to remove the engine.
Well with that oil left on the walls - lower chance of scuffing - LOL.
Might as well fix it - since you know where yours has been.
Select fit pistons to adjust for how the boring tool was feeling that day. Normal industry practice.
I agree that the CAT is at least coated heavily with carbon. That HEGO switching was pretty clear to not have any impact from the CAT element (its dead or clogged)- should be much more lazy as you inferred.
Rest assured that the oil consumption was all your fault....LOL. Anything breaks at my house my wife finds me singularly responsible. LOL.
Yup she was pumping plenty of oil. Volvo had similar issues with seizing oil rings on the old red block - in their case it was lack of maintenance.
Nice they used full floating wrist pins - good stuff.
Good for you taking on that tensioner $190 is a bit steep for an old piece. They had to buy the bearings somewhere and you found them just like T did.
Try the Loc-tite gel in the tubes. I like it and easier to control.
The different pistons are for differing sizes of wrist pins. I'm not sure if it's intentional or some kind of scrap reduction program. I'm sure the cat is whipped. If I let it idle too long the downstream O2 actually stops generating voltage because it gets too cold.
Yeah we color graded the bores in manufacturing and marked the blocks with a colored marker to signal the piston rack to pull from. Wrist pins is another matter. Great stuff keep me coming Wes.
Good morning Wes. Now just yesterday my wife's son-in-law was telling me to stay away from Roberts-Auto-Repair because he gave him some jobs to do with his cars and the jobs came back Incomplete and Roberts still took his money and never finished the jobs he started. So for now I have no other choice but to try changing my oil to a more heavy duty oil.
My 213 Prius is getting worst, too. I have use 1 gallon since I did oil change!
Glad I found your channel sure enjoy them thanks can't wait for the next one
Damn Wes...You're hard core. Jerk that engine and go to work. Much respect my friend.
I would never pass up a chance to change the timing belt!
Good video, been watching a lot of your videos and have been enjoying them. Show anything you want to video as someone will find it useful.
Great job! Like rebuilding the engine.
Hey Wes excellent video I have the same problem with my new honda accord and the dealership here say it's normal. I wonder if honda has the same problem with there car's also .Can't wait for part 2 thanks for sharing.
I don't know. It's not an uncommon issue. I'm not sure how Toyota got away with no recalling these engines, but at least they offered the warranty program.
@@WatchWesWork Hello.. nice video.. i live in Europe and i bought Toyota rav 4 2008 year 2.4 vvti. My question is when can I expect this malfunction or malfunction of the water pump or steering head, since it has only gone 25,000 miles .. and thanks for your reply..
I've got an 09 Scion XB 181k city miles (Uber car). Same engine, same problem. A quart every 400 miles is probably about where I'm at. It's truly been an outstanding car for me in all other areas, but the oil consumption is a thorn in my side. I'm babysitting the oil level. I REALLY should have took it in for the oil consumption test when it was eligible. At the time it was making me a lot of money so not having my car for a week meant a loss in income. Foolish move. Will pay for that mistake many times over.
What did you end up doing?
@@666cemetaryslut topping off the oil when needed.
I’d throw some 5w-30 in it. That should help if it’s burning. I had a 99 Tacoma with the same engine and that was the recommended oil weight. Everyone going to 20w oil is for fuel economy only because in a lab they can get .1% better fuel economy due to the thinner oil.
Wes I know this is 2yrs later but 4yrs ago my 2009 accord (same oil burning issue) was useing 1qt of oil every 1,000mi. The honda repair was to replace the piston rings. I decided to run rotella t6 5w40 in it and changed the oil/filter every time it was low (1,000mi) after doing this about 8-9x the oil consumption has gone down to 0.5qt every 3,500mi..and all I ever did was change the oil. My vehicle has 37k more miles now and I didnt even remove the valve cover.
Wes that was absolutely fantastic 👍🏻🤩🏴
You know how it is, Wes. Once you get in there, everything makes sense. Just as long as someone wasn't in there before you! Other than Toyota. Someone "armed" with an adjustable wrench, a hammer, and no experience can be a real nightmare. Add a pair of wire cutters and you have absolute Terror! Especially if their "ammo" are those three sided crimp/stab connectors. I am glad your wife's car is "virgin". :-) Paint some used oil on the rust. A little goes a long way.
Just did a leakdown test on my gf's RAV4, which burns about a quart every 1000 miles. 2 cylinders are at 10 percent, one is at 7, and one is at 25 percent. If the oil rings get clogged and don't clean the oil off the cylinder walls, would this cause a leakdown test to fail? I'm thinking that it could have wall scoring or worn rings, rather than just clogged oil rings.
Hi Wes. I have always tried to replace the bearings in idler pulleys. Yes I am cheap : ) . I have been watching some of the videos I had missed. Liked,Shared. All my best.
The reason the Toyota mechanics don't replace anything else in the factory repair is they only get reimbursed by Toyota for this very specific service. Toyota doesn't pay the dealer for preemptive/preventive repairs. Lucky for you, this is a non-interference engine so it won't destroy itself if the belt/chain fails.
I'm not so sure the 2AZ in non interference. In fact, I've seen one that took a hit to the intake valves. Maybe that was from carbon build up, but they are not totally safe.
11/10/21, Wes…I wished I had some knowledge to do this. I happen to run across your videos. have a 2007 Camry that is burning a lot of oil as you described. I don’t think I can do what you did, when I found out about this I had 165,000+ miles on my vehicle 3-4 years ago. I believe the manager said the mileage was cut off at less then 150,000 for the recalled, which I never had a letter sent. I’m sitting at 235,000 right now and was thinking about trading it in for Camry a little newer then mine. What’s a good year to get without this oil consumption problems. Thanks
@C T - Toyota started replacing these engines around 2010. The engine you want to get in the newer Camry is the 2.5L 2AR-FE. This is essentially the redesign of the oil burning engine covered in this video.
Steven Lamb, thank you.
Another high quality Toyota...this one only burns a quart every 400 miles.
They're all junk when they're broken.
I am subscribing because you know what you are doing and I am a Toyota fan. 👍
Welcome aboard. I can't promise there will be much future content featuring Toyotas though.
Why Toyota? So many other great vehicles out there.
David Klimmek
I owned 6 other makes before buying a Toyota and had too many issues with all of them. Once I bought my first Toyota, my issues went away. Real world ownership made up my mind. Toyota ever since and my wallet has thanked me every year on my toyota birthday.
@@sirsweetness8332 yea I hear ya...magical vehicles. Nobody else be in business an thriving bud if what u say is norm. We buy Ford trucks & Lincoln SUVs never been let dwn. Next up '19 Linc Aviator AWD reserve for wife.
Better you than me!
i had a 2001 corolla, and it got to the point i was putting a quart in every 2 days. as soon as it got to a quart and a half every day and the exuast went(the cat blew out), it was time to get rid of it. It was a good car otherwise, it got my cross Canada many many times. It had near 1 500 000 miles (around 2 414 016 KM). My local Toyota dealership was amazed on the mileage.
I did one of these 2.4 and peeled all the wiring harnesses back towards the drivers side and also just pulled all the injectors with the fuel rail and left the fuel line attached. Slick as a gut - these engines are historic for pulling the threads on the head bolt holes - I bought the kit for rebuilding the threads in the head bolt holes at $513.00. That sucked. So I rebuilt the entire engine - the #4 hole had too much taper so the block had to be bored. My learning experience with this engine is never try to use aftermarket bearings on the bottom end. I was coming up with too much oil clearence when the bottom was assembled .. I discovered that the Chinese made bearing shells were 1.1 thousands per shell too thin - so with all machine work exactly right the oil clearence were still too big ... with the Chinese bearings the excess was a little over 2 thousands too much. I took a special micrometer with a ball end for measuring curved surfaces and discovered that the Chinese can't even reverse engineer a simple babette bearing. I see other U-tubers were pulling the engine and transmission to rebuild the engine... I agree with you I just pulled the engine and left the transmission in the car... nice video.
Interesting. The original rods and mains in this engine looked perfect.
LOL, sounds like a 2 smoker, add a quart of oil with every fuel up! My Volvo was behaving like that until the head/valve job due to a burned valve. It started with a blown turbo and never got better.
Just add to the pollution problem by adding more oil to burn. Nice.
You really need to keep the clean oil to the turbo and read what the manufacturer says about cool down for turbo.
My neighbour owned a commercial diesel and he never read the manual that recommended 2 min idle before shutting down. Turbo stopped working some time ago...
Could you have just drilled the oil drainback passages out in the old pistons, cleaned everything up and thrown it back together with a gasket kit?
I was wondering the same. With 200k miles and the pistons being 60 bucks each I would have replaced them if I had to pull them anyway. But if they checked good why not?
It's a good question and I don't know the answer. Visually, I don't really see a difference between the old pistons and the new ones. They have the same number of holes in about the same location. The oil ring is totally different though. The old piston used a two piece (really a one piece) oil ring. The new piston uses a 3 piece design. From what the parts man told me, after the warranty parts were in production, they stopped selling the original piston design. I don't know if the new 3 piece ring design will work with the old piston. Either way, I probably could have just cleaned the holes and replaced the rings and the engine would have made it to the end of its natural life. It never burned oil for the first 150,000 miles. I doubt it has another 150,000 miles in it.
@@WatchWesWork 3 rings to force more pressure into the holes. Wooo-Hoooo!!
Ever change the PCV every 30k miles as required?? Because if not you'll burn oil bro
Now that you have done that process, is there any way to replace the pistons without removing the engine? I've seen other videos on 1AZ engines where guys could get to the connecting rod nuts from underneath the car. I am assuming the answer is no on the 2AZ but figured I'd ask anyway.
seems like toyota has been making this "mistake" for about 10 + years , funny how they still have a good reputation
I’ll never buy a new model Toyota again
Excellent resourceful info., Thank you so much
I am watching you pull the battery out and I am thinking, "Holy Crap! He is pulling the whole engine out. Wow. AND taking it apart, and putting it back together, reinstalling it, and it will work perfectly." (No, I have not watched part two. I already know. This is Wes I am writing about).
Just curious, are you formerly trained or self taught? You explain the content that is easy to understand. Thanks. Its too bad that Toyota put stipulations on this failure, rather than just fix their error.
Wasn't it possible to remove the pistons from under the engine and change the rings without pulling the engine out of the car and all that? I have seen this done once and since this is a high millage car you could do that in a few hours.
It was a very enjoyable video! You did a great job. I'm sure your wife is Happy.
Thanks. The car has been in almost constant motion since the repair.
Good morning it's 5am 9/23/20 and I could not sleep because I really don't know what to do. I'm willing to drive to Chicago Illinois to get my car fixed the right way, but first I have to find out how many miles is it to you and the best route to take. You see what's brothering me is that I found someone that could maybe fix my problem and I believe that your the man but why do you have to live so far away. I would have to make this a vacation trip and stay in a Hotel until your finished and that would be another expense. I have mechanics out here but all they want to do is pull my engine out and put a rebuilt engine and I'm not going for that because my engine only has 69,546 miles and after watching your videos I know more or less who I want to fix my Camry. So let me see how many miles it is to you and the best possible route. I will get back to you when I could figure this out, once again Thank You for letting me share my thoughts with you.
I would really discourage you from doing that. There are just so many things that can go wrong. It would be much better to find a local mechanic who can do the job. Any Toyota dealership should have the tools and knowledge, though it will cost more. But the total cost would surely be lower.