Rebar Layout Ep 30
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Do you remember our video deciding between slab-on-grade and a crawl space foundation? Learn why we chose this foundation type here: • Concrete Slab vs Crawl...
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The exact same foundation I have to build for my shop , don't have the luxury of a cement delivery where my place is, best to use block,
Thanks for the video.
I think a major contributor to Scott's eloquence is the fact that when he's searching for a term or a way to phrase something, he doesn't fill the space with "uh"s and "um"s.
There's nothing wrong with taking a moment to pick out one of the few million words you can use for a given concept.
Any opinion on fiberglass rebar? It's supposed to last longer given that it doesn't rust.
It's very expensive.
Rebar in this footing wont rust. No chloride or carbon doixide from outside will get into the concrete. So no corrosion. Spending so much money on fiberglass rebar is basically wasted. And any surface rust before pouring is actually dissolved in the concrete afterwards.
It can be very expensive (multiple times the cost of regular rebar). It is very strong and corrosion resistant which makes sense in some use cases which are more mission critical or structurally challenging than a simple foundation like this. Unlike steel, it fails suddenly, so generally there is no warning. Generally, normally reinforced concrete structures are designed to fail in a way that gives some warning before actual collapse.
That's why you don't see them so commonly.
FRP is quite a bit stronger and lighter. chemically resistant. all good things. there is however no perfect product. FRP is 1/2 as stiff and a 1/4 as resistant to strain as steel, and we dont yet know how it handles a fire situation or long time frame deflections.
that being said in a large number of use cases its usually the better option, if in budget, but often overkill.
EDIT for link: ruclips.net/video/thUZImUTZn0/видео.html check this video out to hear an engineer tell you lol.
It can be used to add strenght to an existing structure. It is glued on (under) floors sometimes when loads changed (when big holes are cut or walls are rearranged).
great quality
Love these videos! I seen a turnbuckle, I assume that was to add rigidity to that form? Also, I was taught NOT to cut rebar with torches; its oxidizes the steel?
FIrst time I see rebar without rust. I'm from the Northern side of Europe.
How much do you charge for the rebar installation?
Sister lives up there out of Lookingglass and I know they are in fire restrictions that limit they type of equipment they can use and when they can use it...to cut down on the possibility of spark and/or exhaust started fires. Are you having any problem with that and, if so, how will it impact your workflow?
Please, for crying out loud. Give me some concrete. I'm dying over here for the pour.
Oh grasshopper, you are so impatient!! The grass must go before you can cut it down....😁
@@keestrokes I know art cannot be hurried, I made the mistake of binge watching over the last few days and now just want more. Lol.
This is a modern day Larry Haun video series. This will be viewed by many over the years and help them understand why and how buildings and houses are constructed. Thanks Essential Craftsman, I can only imagine the effort it takes to coordinate the logistics of building a house while documenting and editing the process.
Anyone who can refer back to Larry Haun is okay with me. That fine gentleman forgot more about building homes than most of us will ever know, but he sure did his best to pass it on.
Larry Haun was the best! Ironically, he lived less than 90 miles from Scott!
EXACTLY WHAT I WAS THINKING WATCHING THIS VIDEO!!...
For crying out loud we sure love this channel!
I'm not in the trades, so every video you make is educational for me. Once again, you show there is a science to everything. Most folks are oblivious to this. So thanks for letting us look over the shoulders of a craftsman.
Dark Delta I am in the trades. And this material is still educational. He’s just that good.
@@jchasew342 I'm not surprised to hear that from a fellow tradesman. Plus, it's the scale of things he knows about.
Spot-on oh, there is a science to everything, there is absolutely positively a right and wrong way to do anyting
Good to see a carpenter that actually understands masonry layout, thanks for putting this out there.
Hi ok hi h by h go
Just a suggestion. When you were explaining block and rebar spacing at 9:09, an easy way of illustrating it would have been to use a couple sample blocks laid in a row on the ground. Visual aids like this could make things a bit clearer.
Yes, please - I googled it (CBU block) and then it made more sense. Visual aids for my dumb inexperienced brain please :)
Yes +1 that, I had to watch this twice and go look at a CMU to get it. Edited, "CMU".
It’s a CMU.
Yes, I agree.
yep, kept expecting 2 or 3 blocks to show up to help guys better understand.
I'm loving this series so much! I've been looking forward to this build ever since the speculation video came out. I built my shed a year ago. I learned so much and got so much confidence from you to build it. You are a big reason why I built it myself. It's an 8 by 12 foot shed and the peak of the roof is 13 feet high. I love it. Thanks for all your teachings and passion for every trade your teaching us along this journey. I look forward to every video like a kid in the candy store watching the cashier bag my candy. I'm 42, was injured in a few car accidents and had to quit my career as a Certified Athletic Trainer (sports medicine) and I opened St. Josef's Woodshop, LLC here in Tallahassee, Florida. By the grace of God, the procedures of had on my keck have given me the ability to get contracts without advertising so I can use a lot of the skills you have taught me to earn some extra money to help support my beautiful wife and 3 kids. Thank you for your knowledge, sharing that knowledge in an amazing explainable way with perfect demonstration. God Bless you, Scott, Nate y'all whole family! I pray for all of your safety in building this house and may God bless that house and the family/families who will live in it. May they be blessed with many holidays, births and baptisms. Keep up the good work!
12:30 'That'll be the masons problem' LMAO!!!
You know you're a pro when....love it!
Glad you put tops on those stakes. I saw someone fall on one years ago. It drug his inerds out a little due to slightly mushroomed top when he got up. I would have never dreamed that would happen unless I saw it. Those safety devices are more than worth it.
Step 1.) Click "Like" button.
Step 2.) Click "Play" button.
Step 3.) Enjoy gaining expert knowledge.
In Australia we have to tape foam onto pvc pipes penetrating the slab so to cushion the pipe should there be any movement in the slab, I’ll watch carefully to see it it’s a requirement on this project.
Peter Beyer we do that in Minnesota too. The codes here in the US vary some from state to state due to local climate, etc. I guess I was just writing to let you know that’s not completely unheard of over here.
It is a requirement in Oregon (where this is) as well. However, this is a framed subfloor and only the garage will be slab. There may not be an application where it'll be necessary.
These are the types of comments and responses that make RUclips just a little bit alright.
Same in California...buy 6 inch wide rolls of kinda like bubble-wrap but minuscule bubbles and wrap several times.
What about the thickness of the mortar in between each CMU? Do you figure for that, or is it included in the size of the blocks?
Block is 15 5/8" long. The mortar joint between two blocks is 3/8".
think modular
@@deezynar is 3/8th pretty much the standard for say block walls? Or does it depend on the project?
@@keestrokes Standard so it works out to be 16 inches long and 8 inches tall. Hence the block being call an 8 inch it's made 3/8 smaller all around to allow for the mortar and still just do figuring by said size of block. All block are done this way 3/8 smaller. Same with lumber a 2×4 is not 2 inches by 4 inches it's just a bit smaller.
Scott Jenkins 16” is the total of the CMU and the mortar joint. Whenever you get a block it’ll be a nominal. You can figure your mortar joint by simple deduction. Good luck
Dumb question: what are those orange caps on the stakes? I imagine they are there to make sure someone doesn't accidentally fall over and get impaled, but I thought I'd ask and confirm.
Confirmed
They’re called stab guards so you don’t get impailed on the exposed rebar/stakes/forming. Also called osha caps also mushroom caps for the cheap ones that break easily and look like orange mushrooms
Last week here in Munich one Truck driver jumped off his Truck and stuck himself on such a rebar. Hevily injured! Heard not how he is doing now. Those stakes are deadly.
Code requires them, osha requires them, just about everywhere requires them. Even if you are working on a project or in an area that doesn't require them, still use them. They are much much much cheaper than the legal and settlement costs of someone getting impaled and dying...
If you ever have seen somebody whom trip on a job side where the rebar did not had those guard caps on yet,... you want those guard caps for sure! It was a messed side to see and experience, and one with fatal consequences.... 😪
16:38 "You're going to bleed a little bit if you're going to start living as a rod buster. But, ahh, we ain't got time to bleed much"
Man I wish I had your skills and knowledge!!! I'd love to be able to build my own place. Great work!
Its really nice to see someone spend so much time making things easier for the other trades. As an electrician i try really hard to communicate with other trades, especially if something i do could potentially impact their work.
EC, many viewers don't have a clue how much construction wisdom you've acquired in your lifetime. It will be hard for some of them to comprehend many of these easy things you're telling/showing them. My compliments to you regarding your broad spectrum of construction knowledge and, btw, you and I know you should start your next profession as an instructor/teacher at a vocational school....if they would pay you enough...lol.
Did you have the plumber out yet? He will want to make his stub outs before the forms go in. Nice view! Water, sewer, gas. Don't forget low voltage. Pour the pad for the ac compressor. Lots to do.
@Michael VanGundy...Sir, this gentleman is "a long ways" ahead of you. His thinking on this project is probably not lacking!....after all he did this as a routine in his career!
@@arkansas1336
I am a retired plumber. A lifetime of running jobs as large as they come. I can recognize something as simple as a house scheduling problem.
@@michaelvangundy226 can u not just use a sleeve under the footing? The rest of that stuff can wait....no biggie
@@R2Mike
All three need to be in the correct spot, says captain obvious. The waste is the most critical. There is a set amount of fall needed and you have two hard points. Someone, the plumber, needs to shoot elevations and look at the house to do a basic layout. Some jurisdictions got so tired of this not being done that they would not issue a building permit until they had a piping schematic and a plumbing permit issued. Even for housing!
Why are people getting upset that you’re asking about the upcoming schedule? They must have never had to answer those questions. I’ll bet my tattoos that Scott isn’t sour about you asking. He’ll either say ‘yup, watch the next episode’ or ‘I’m glad you said something, can’t believe I almost taught everyone how to fix it later’ haha
16:00 cutting with a band saw dowsnt create Sparks. However it does create little chips of metal that can go into your eyes. Put goggles if your cutting rebar. Sucks when the doctor has to force open your eye while he is trying to retrieve the metal in your eye and your eye naturally wants to close....
Naw, they have drops that make everything good. Steel gets pulled with a magnet while your face is in a vice. Your eyes are held open with curved eyelid clamps. Now copper shavings was bad. Took over 2 hours with tweezers and a microscope. Lots of drugs, I was numb from the chin up.
I agree with goggles over regular safety glasses. When I was working in a metal shop at the chop saw I had a piece of metal hit my cheek and bounce under my glasses into my eye. I had to sit still while the doctor drilled it out of my eye with one of those dentist sized tools. It was not a fun day.
Hydraulic rebar cutter works best.
Michael VanGundy Numb from the chin up!!! Awe that’s too easy, you wrote that hoping I’d bite. Haha
Yes, the bricklayers will really love this layout of the "verts" and may give you a discount...maybe! I can only remember a couple of times that the general contractor went to that much time to make sure the vertical rods were in the center of the cores in the block since 1968 when I started my apprenticeship. Worth it? You bet, Greg.
Many years ago we called the verts "starter bars"'
and once we had finished tying all the steel, we all used to have a beer
and leave the empty bottles on top of the vertical bars,
sometimes, we had to empty a lotta bottles to cover all the bars.
Call it prehistoric workplace safety.
Thankfully, it was never tested for effectiveness.
The new caps are way better,
they make more sense than political correctness on site.
@@benjigray8690 I have found many old Milwaukee cans in block and retaining walls.
For some strange reason my back hurts....😁
Thanks for sharing this build. 👍
Tying in re bar at corners and intersecting walls in footings and walls are details contractors often get incorrect. Unfortunately,you did also: here is one of many pictures available showcasing the proper way bars are to lap as they turn corners in footings and walls. They should not follow the short path around corners but extend to the far side of the corner. May appear insignificant,however,it is the stronger,correct way to place them. www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=407323
@J Mack That is what these types of interactive sites are for,the sharing of knowledge.We are never to old to learn. Best regards.
I am working on a house right now that looks like it is slab on grade but isn't. LOL County record says it is but alas. The ironic thing is that it was built by the Washington state government as low-income housing in the '70s. The floor is 4x12 on four-foot centers with 2x6 car decking subfloor. This all sits inside a small stem wall on a"footing". Funny stuff.
What a great presenter. His lessons are easy to follow and I love the fact that explains why he uses the methods he’s teaching. His apprentices are extremely lucky to learn from him.
The question is why block over poured concrete? I’ve been considering block for my foundation and try doing it myself. Concrete is 300 dollars a yard, the cost of form rental, pump cost another 1000-2000 dollars.
Nice! been a rodbuster for 5 yrs we always start layout at 4” from face of cmu wall, basically the same thing
Been that way for 40 years that i know of , there must be a bar at the corner or intersection , sometimes two bars
A portable bandsaw is pretty sweet for cutting rebar
Very slow though. A gasoline cut off saw with a fiber blade is much quicker + you can gang cut a group of them simultaneously. Another tip,you do not need to cut all the way through. re-bar can be cut around 5 / 8 through,it will then snap easily by placing a foot on the and lifting up the end.
Fred Nowicki those gas powered partner saws with a diamond blade are one of the best tools a guy could have.
@@AustinHansen for cutting steel you want an abrasive cutting blade. Not unlike an angle grinder zip wheel
Joe Crotty that’s definitely a better wheel for cutting metal. I’m particular to the masonry wheel because my cutting work mainly consists of masonry materials, but the same blade is able to cut through the brick and block, the rebar, and any miscellaneous wood and junk we have to cut through. It’s pretty versatile!
a chop saw
Thanks so much for all the work you’re doing to share this process with us.
Another video! Wonderful! I love how frequent they are recently.
I only ever see concrete poured stem walls up here in greater Seattle area. Is cinder block done just because it's less expensive?
Generally less expensive and a lot less form-work needed.
Depends on the location of the block plant. Our area double the cost for a block wall. Plus no one really knows how so we pull Frazier Mason's from 9 hours south. Or just pour sold walls.
I know living in seismic zone D-2 it is not code unless it is manufactured home.
Maybe the concrete truck hose doesn’t make it to the back of the house? But that would be hard to believe. Probably cost ?
Monolithic pour seems like a best way to me, but I’m also an armchair quarterback..haha
concrete blocks,cinder blocks are history
You are the man! I wish my father taught me the value of craftsmanship when I was starting my career. I point anyone who will listen to your channel. Solid advice no matter your trade.
Much appreciation to you from Korea, your videos teach me a lot of work and life
maybe I missed it but I do not see your stub outs for CATV and telco. I see the conduit for power.
Would it behoove him to also run for network and or video surveillance. Those two are inner joined nowadays,but it's a growing trend on new homes.
@@tsnorquist structured wiring was big in the early 2000, but everything these days are wireless including security cameras for the home. All you need for the cameras in the attack is some 120 run around the inside of your attic.
Cable TV? Is that next to the bone knives and bear skins? Let the internet guy drill a hole later. Let’s get back to work.
Yep very good description on how to do it but personally in my experience we generally level and adjust the rebar as the concrete is being poured/ curing. Concrete is my life and as a skilled labourer like myself, I believe this video is a perfect example for those learning.
This series is both entertaining and useful. Thank you for documenting this process:)
@ My Country they use tons of rusted netting in concrete slabs with no problems i guess... I am also wondering why u use rebar and not netting. Im just wondering why! No criticism :) I learned ALOT from this channel!
i will never understand why amercans build their houses since centuries in this style! no solid groundplate, thin walls from wood and foam is for the invirement the absolute cathastroply. when i am right is the summertime in oregon quite hot and the winter below frezingpoint. so in winter you heat like crazy and in summer the aircondition runs constantly. and no one cares the cost and waste of energy because this style of building house is "tradition". in germany the outer walls are minimum 15 inches + additional insulation. so in a proper build house you need no aircondition in summer and in winter you have to use heating very seldom. regards from cologne (love your channel)
Man, I'm glad there are people like you that know how to do this stuff for people like me, lol !
Can’t wait for the pour
I always figured you to be a pretty tough guy, but when I saw you holding a piece of rebar in your teeth at around 17:10.....wow. It wasn't till you dropped it that I realized it was against your neck and cheek. Ha ha ha. Do you have an eyepatch and parrot too? Arrrrgh
@18:12 I'm a civil engineer and I approve this message! ;-)
Excellent, detailed, step-by-step information - this is the stuff that is always forgotten about because usually-clueless editors don't understand the importance of these details. But as well all know, the devil is in the details. Somebody watching this series, who's never built anything before is going to have a great headstart in figuring things out.
As for rust on rebar, so long as it's surface rust (not flaking rust), it's actually beneficial for the concrete bond. DIRT MUST BE CLEANED OFF.
I don't know if I have said this before but you remind me so much of my grandfather in a very good way besides the fact he was a Union Chrysler worker he did all sorts of work from carpentry, welding and machining, automotive, and everything in between.
Was that another Wadsworth helping Nate install the verts? If not, they sure look a lot alike.
"We ain't got time to bleed much". That's not only a pithy observation, it's a philosophy.
stud mark plus or minus 4 inches gives you center of block
Is there a reason why you're not using a moisture/vapour barrier?
Quality is the absolute best result you can give a person when it comes to concrete. Fantastic quality you give your clients. Beautiful work my friend!
I so enjoy your videos, I work in an office but like working with my hands, I love the way you present your content, it’s so informative. If you need a helper with the spec house I would be so up for it!, just let me know and I’ll book the flight,
I haven’t seen any block work being done in Oregon for 30+ years. Pouring a stem wall seems a lot easier than worrying about all the exact locations of the verts. Why block wall over poured wall?
Are the verts allowed to go beyond the bottom of the footers into the gravel base or must they be completely up in the footer.
I ask because if they go below into the gravel there is the possibility they will rust and cause deterioration/weakening of the bond between the rebar and the concrete. I see on road paving the rebar is painted with epoxy paint.
JIM
Only if you're a farmer. Farmers can do whatever the hell they want. I saw one use a wood 2x4 for 'tensile' reinforcement instead of steel rebar in a concrete footer once.. and they love to drive rebar in the ground everywhere so they don't have to dig as deep.. because their grandpappy taught them that trick. Farmers can do whatever they want, even shoot building inspectors.
Awesome work once again Scott. Loving this build! I know the house is going to be beautiful, but that view alone will sell that house!
Thanks Scott for all your hard work. Us old guys still have *TREMENDOUS* value!!
I wonder if your engineer has ever specified that the j bars be tied or at least hooked UNDER the horizontal bar in the footings.
I really enjoy talking to engineers and whenever possible when on site and I have time I always ask questions and try to get an understanding of the way they think. One of these times he said that he would prefer the j bars be hooked under the horizontals, he also said he understands that most full time rod busters work by the foot or by the pound and it is much easier and faster to tie them resting on top.
This makes perfect sense to me, a greater uplift resistance. Ever since when I am installing I have tied them that way.
Anyway, he also said that for what we usually build ( single family buildings) he does not insist on this element but, for anything of a greater size or public or commercial use he does spec this rebar detail.
I love these videos I'm learning an incredible amount, I'm will be contributing.
Is there a way other than patreon to get access to all the good stuff?
Pete M I don't think I'd trust the work of anybody that puts them on the wrong side. I'm in a seismic zone and that could kill people or destroy stuff.
Don't forget to connect a Ufer ground to the rebar before the pour!
Herbert G. Ufer was an engineer at Underwriters Laboratories www.ecmag.com/section/codes-standards/solid-ground-defining-and-understanding-ufer-ground
Gee so much to do and knowledge here, so informative. You really know your stuff and it's inspiring to see you hard at it. This house is going to be amazing.
Should have saved this for Sunday morning, but couldn't wait!
trackdog90 you’ll just have to watch it Sunday morning too with some coffe
Good luck getting the electric conduit in a CMU cell....nearly impossible but CAN BE DONE!
Yes it can. As they say, been there, done that and don't care to do it anymore!
arkansas13 why bother?
With all the work you guys have done on the house, I'm surprised at how quickly you are able to pop out these videos. I surely do appreciate it. You have a rare gift for explaining very complex processes, but, more importantly, you don't skip over concepts that many people would assume, "Oh, EVERYbody knows that." Truth is, nobody is born knowing any of this stuff, so your efforts are very much appreciated. Thank you again to the entire Wadsworth clan!
BPCC Math251 (Calculus II, Hitchcock) 2017 That's what I think to. ..
That intro had me thinking I was watching Bundy Bears Shed.
Watched plenty of really good build series which show what is being done - but very few go into the detail of the why and how. Your series is pure gold.
Great videos. Great to see common sense , skill and a hands on approach. Cant stop watching them. Thank you. Nick
Better yet, just pour concrete for the walls. Less thinking, less labor, and greater strength.
STILL HAVE TO FRAME IT UP..
@@MD-cd7em a day or two to frame it up. And with ICFs you don't even need the traditional forms.
The cleanest most organized masterpiece of a jobsite that is rarely seen on the east coast. So tired of hearing those words, " good enough",... not on my job sites and not with my work. You can really tell those who take pride in their work and care about reputation... Love this guys work! Meticulous and Immaculate. 👍
Nothing like, 'I am a lumberjack and I'm okay', like a Hot Pink mason line🤖
...Did I forget to say, 🤖. 🤖 🤖🤖🤖🤖🤖🤖🤖
Binge worthy for this oldtimer.outstanding content.
I love your videos and I am SO pleased to see you using genuine tie wire with a wire reel and real lather pliers and not grocery store twisty ties! 😎
Mike NYC M won't using something stupid like twist ties fail an inspection?
AMEN
You're like the Back To The Future Doc Brown mad scientist of construction and carpentry , we love your channel
They'll always be cinder blocks to me and the real heavy ones were concrete blocks. Old ways die hard! Love all your videos Scott and Nate.
Non rusty rebar is a rare thing in my experience, loads direct from the steel manufacturer are usually pretty rusty and anything from a steel stockist will be rusty. Unless we have had a long dry period as its all stored outside. We do use far more weld mesh than plain bar though, the weld mesh is always rusty.
I'm addicted to these videos now!
Holy crap I love these videos...Thanks EC!
That hip mounted wire feeding spool is the cats meow
"cats meow"? That's what Judge Judy said about Michelle Obama once.😅
This is the first time I've actually seen the view from this home-site. Wow, what a nice view. No wonder that you are dealing with the elevation/grading issues you have had to put up with here.
3:06 i thought my speakers shorted out with all that squeaking. LOL
your whole channel has made me a a better employee thanks! great stuff!
Where's the epoxy coated rebar?
Amazing Content! Thank you for taking the time to share. You guys are awesome!
Okay, that shot of the potato bug (that’s what we call it in Oregon City) at 7:08 made me smile a lot.
Never mind, I asked my question too soon. I see the rebar is bent and attached up in the footer to another rebar.
JIM
Cool, thanks for another amazing video!
It's been a while since I've seen cinderblocks foundations. The past few years we tend to use Integrated Concrete Forms (ICF) to build our foundations. I would love to see a video with your patience and skill showing how ICFs are supposed to be done.
Good grief these videos are excellent.
I'd love a live webcam of the site! You could post expected times for things like concrete pours or excavation work, I would tune in daily!
Awesome content
I can imagine you’re probably starting to get ahead with videos ?
I still don't understand why you're doing block, it seems like block is making more work for you and more cost. In the amount of time you've been carefully laying everything out, you could have installed forms and form-ties and poured a monolithic foundation.
EFormance Engineering Maybe the concrete truck hose doesn’t make it to the back of the house? But that would be hard to believe. Probably cost ?
I’m with you. Monolithic pour seems like a best way to me, but I’m also an armchair quarterback..haha
@@michaelhowell8990 I had a house built in Oregon last year, it was a monolithic pour and took about 3 days with a crew of 5. The area of the foundation was 90x40 with 30 inch grade stem walls and 12x16 footers.
Wont he have to fill multiple blocks with concrete wherever he needs bolts to hold the framing down?
I’m guessing it was cost that made the decision for him. I’ve seen multiple videos from him talking about blocks so maybe he’s just a block fan?
I’ll be pouring a foundation at the end of this year. 1st one ever with no experience. Seems like a monolithic pour is the safest. Make the forms perfect and strong. I can take as long as I want. Then no worries about lengths of blocks once the concrete dries. That’s my thoughts.
@@michaelhowell8990 He was trying to use this as a teaching series and thus maybe chose block because they did the retaining wall as poured.
I watched the guys who built my house and they just dug a foundation shaped hole and poured concrete in it without any rebar at all. They built the blocks on top of that.
Yikes! Concrete AND steel have complimentary (and necessary) strengths. With the lack of steel, you’ve eliminated half of that equation.
String & knots was an excellent video for us(x-boy scouts) who cannot tie our shoes! LoL! ..but kinda true! Thank you for realizing, then taking time to slowly film this most necessary construction--& life long--skill. Thanks!👍👍
Scott, do you remember left and right handed tape measures?
Are you joking ? Is there such a thing ?
@@augustreil There used to make them. Pick the one that had the numbers 'right side up' for most of the work.
They still make them ( see fastcap) and with both metric and standard measures on the same tape. Lots of varieties.
how much longer until Nate has a lumber rack?
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video because I'm about to layout a wall and have looking for a video to simplify this aspect of the wall. This video answered my questions in a simple straight forward way. Thanks again.
Drop cords can be a problem, they tangle, they take up a lot of space, they get damaged when you tug on them. Do you have a video on managing drop cords?