Planing Thin Strips - You get a veneer, you get a veneer! Woodworking Technique
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Often I'll have thin strips left over from woodworking projects, but they're weirdly both too thick for veneers and too thin for other project parts.
The solution is to batch process them using a very simple sled at the thicknesser (aka planer)
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Either finish your beard or don’t. The suspense is killing us all.
Sorry mate, I went looking for a problem and I found it because it is very common. The "stop" on the sled goes into the thicknesser first. It's a common mistake because people put the stop behind the workpiece to stop the cutterhead from firing the workpiece back out at the operator. The rollers will prevent that, and in a worse case scenario, the anti-kickback fingers will catch it just the same as if the work piece was on the thicknesser bed itself. The "stop" goes at the front because the rollers only engage the workpiece, and if there isn't enough friction between the sled and the workpiece, the sled gets left behind. It's quite funny to watch table leg tapering thicknesser jigs/sleds used wrong. No leg ends up the same :D
Lack of friction would only really occur if its not actually stuck down, wouldn't it? My first attempt was without a stop at the rear, and as it got thin enough, the quartersawn material that went through got a lot more chippy on the end
@@TheWoodKnight I don't know why it would get more chippy on the trailing end without a stop, other than the workpiece is getting to thin and is flexing up into the cutterhead. I do 3mm on my thicknesser without tape holding it down and it ends up being 3mm'ish because of the lifting. Because you are only using a couple points of holding with the sticky tape, your minimum thickness will be limited by the timber resisting the lifting forces of the cutterhead.
Oh and yeah, if you removed the double sided tape, it will more than likely leave the sled behind as the rollers pull the workpiece through.
I'm guessing with the workpiece wedged up against the stop, it's helping prevent it lifting during the cutting process.
@@TheWoodKnight Yeah probably. Much the same as butt feeding timber through a thicknesser. I jam the next piece into the current piece with quite a considerable amount of pressure to create exactly that environment.
You're crazy. I just saw his channel. I checked the channel. I love him. You did interesting projects. The projects are very nice. I'm doing woodwork. Please visit me if you want to see. I'il be happy if you visit me. See you again. Respects.
Time is money. Put that stopblock in front of the sled and dont use anything to stick your workpiece
Those would make nice divider stock for drawers in the shop or kitchen and office. Don't need the veneer that much for me but you're different with those engraved pictures you make. Kudos any way. That sled and included stops is an essential jig for most thicknessers in my opinion. (Some use melamine and hot glue -- easier clean up and less fussy. but possibility of uneven applications but I do like the melamine.)
I typed in 'How to HAND plane a thin piece of wood'. I haven't got a thicknesser! Grrrr
You need to make a jig which holds the work piece, and the handplane rides on top of. www.finewoodworking.com/2015/12/17/a-jig-for-planing-super-thin-parts
I just make one piece (raising piece) perfectly level, then run my veneer piece on top. The veneer piece usually takes of first and then brings the raising piece along with it. I used this method for making splines in my last video
You have put the stop piece at the wrong side. it should be at the front of the milled stock, as the top piece is pushed in to the front by the rollers. there is no reason to put the stop block at the back, it does nothing. it is the opposite force.
Thanks. I actually really needed to see this. I need to make some 1/8” thick maple clips for picture frames and couldn’t figure out a way to secure it to the board. Much appreciated.
hmm, i find doing the bulk of the work on the bandsaw a good idea. Probably could get 2x veneers out of each of those boards. A quick very shallow pass in the thicknesser to clean up the sawn face and you're good to go.
With a carbide resaw blade, maybe, getting two usable veneers out of a 140x6mm board is relatively tricky.
@@TheWoodKnight I forget you Aussies have those crazy hard woods all over. Like your workbench out of framing oak.
Great tips Paul, from Perth Western Australia
Also happy ANZAC day
Thanks for the info Paul! 👍🏻👊🏻