SENSITIVE DRILL CHUCK REPAIR, MARC LECUYER
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- "Little Quickie" video number 20. As for all thatlazymachinist videos, this video is aimed at the novice machinist who wishes to develop proper basic work skills. More specifically, this video shows certain drill chuck repairs or modifications. MARC LECUYER, thatlazymachinist.com
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Nice fix, I would not have thought of that.
besides the very informative video, I liked the signs posted on your toolbox.
very educational and very well presented!
john
When I was younger (a very long time ago) I was told that a lathe is the only machine that can remake itself. Most home machinists do not realize that they can make or repair they're tools and tooling. Thanks for showing us just that.
People that know me will tell you that I have taken this idea to extremes. Very rewarding, but sometimes costing more time and money than it is worth.
Great pleasure is to had putting back into service something that others would throw away. Throw away society, not while Marc is about! :>)
nice fix. Very talented piece of work.
Mark, the best teacher :)
Nuts, I wanted to see how you put the spring and cap back in the spindle of that sensitive drill chuck.
Nice, clear video, as usual. Thanks.
IT WAS ENJOYABLE! You returned a nice drill chuck to service and gave some valuable tips while having fun.
Marc, I ran across this looking for videos on the JT33 taper. I understand your love for the Jacobs #0. My Foredom has one and it's like a piece of fine jewelry. Nice save!
That was a cool fix!
Great work Mark.I make my Chuck Wedges from surplus open end wrenches. Machine a taper on the Open end, then cut the wrench parallel to the jaw opening. I use them in my Vice to apply even pressure from opposite sides. I have a couple of good quality reversible electric drills. Their chucks have a hole like you drilled and use a left handed cap screw to secure the chuck to the arbour. Keep up the great work, Bob
Nice fix. I think this is the first time I've seen you doing some machining. Keep them coming. Thanks.
+Phillip Yannone Hi Phillip, I have several (over 100) videos and most of them include machining. If you would like to watch some, you can find them easily on my free website THATLAZYMACHINIST.COM in both English and French. Page two of the site is mostly theory (courses in English) videos but page 3 has my English little quickies and my English shop project and operations videos. I produce the videos for fun and I share them because it makes me feel good and useful and because knowledge kept is knowledge lost. Thanks for watching and thanks for taking the time to comment, Marc
Great idea on the sleeve Marc. I think I have heard of threaded hole in a chuck but cannot remember ever seeing one. Thanks for the vid.
Good Job
At first I thought I'll bet that base you drilled through was hardened, then not so much....
Keep up the good work
Great idea!
Is the line borrowed from The inspector?
Great little quickie, again.
A great video Marc, keep them coming, there always a pleasure to watch
I learned again! Great info! Thanks for sharing.....
Very cool fixes, I always learn something new.
Question, why not put a knurl on the sleeve for the little chuck?
You can plug the threaded hole in the chuck by using a short set screw...
If any, send my share to the popular soup house... ;)
Sorry Marc, but I first used that trick over 25 years ago and it was far from new then.
I hd to share one good drill chuck between a Myford and a bench drill and remembered reading, perhaps in 'The Amateurs Lathe', or 'The Amateurs Workshop', that Jacobs chucks are soft through the back and easy to drill and tap.
I've passed on the tip an number of times, but it seems one that few people actually take up.
+Paul Compton So I guess that I had an original idea but that it was only original for me! that's OK since it was great fun. Thanks for letting me know and thanks for watching, Marc
Good video, one thing I'd like to point out is after drilling and tapping the chuck body shouldn't you have taken apart the chuck to be sure all the chips are cleaned out, if any debris remains it could damage or jam the jaws.
Excellent explanation, thanks! I guess I was also wondering which one has more capability to generate force. I believe that's also the fine threaded fastener due to the shallower helix angle. I'm asking because I have a mt4-4jt arbor to remove... I think I'll try to single point and make a very snug fitting thread...
Hi there. Thanks for all your wonderfull videos! Like them a lot. In regards to your video kvality i cant stop thinking and i found a solution. We like sharper HD video, you dont think we would like to see you in better kvality... Solution: You get better video mashine, i put a pice of masking tape on my right side of the laptop. You stay in the right side of the screen. Problem fixed ;-) :-D Thank you and keep up the good work!!!! Kind regards Gert
+gert skjølstrup I love the idea Gert! A bit of petroleum Jelly smudged on the screen would also work, the devil is in the details and with me the details are better left unseen, I look a lot better in the dark. Thanks for watching and for the great comment, Marc
I seen instructions some where (Jacobs?) that showed drilling a hole in the bottom of the chuck, then use a drift/pin punch to knock out the arbor. Never seen the threading trick.
Another great video, Marc. Enjoyed here. And, I learned. You stated in one of your videos - in the positioning hammer series - that when drilling on the lathe one should retract the drill bit quickly. What is the reason? Is it quick enough to use the quill handle and wind it out, or should one release the tail stock and drag it out, which is quicker? My tail stock is a back wrenching heavy clump and quickly is not so quick any more at my age. Love the videos. jim
you are awesome man... i love your jokes... wish you were my professor, even though i hadnt had any machining classes in school... but you are now
i hope the doctor jokes are just jokes... if not, get better please :)
Great repair Marc. I did a similar repair to a split 5/8 socket a lot of years ago when spare cash was in short supply. It is still in my tool kit.Love your videos, very helpful.I want to ask about your 3 way tool post. It looks like one I have seen in the English magazine Model Engineers Workshop.I ask because I am about to build some (3) out of some steel I had flame cut. My lathe is a Southbend 9a clone made in Australia by Hercus and dates from 1954.Can you tell me the sizes of your tool post, I am assuming that your Atlas is about 9"Keep up the videos for old novices like me.
+Clive Donaldson That would be a David Lammas tool post, methinks.
+Chris Stephens Yes Chris exactly right. In his article published in MEW he give the size for Myford ML7 tool posts but mentioned that he had castings made for larger lathes. I just scaled things up but would love to know the dimensions used by Marc.
+Clive Donaldson Hi Clive! The tool post is home made and home designed. I didn't like the square tool posts because the small compound rest put the Tools too close to the hand wheel and that seemed to dangerous. So I made this triangular one from scratch from 4140 bar stock. If you would like some pictures, send me an Email and I will send you some pictures. Since I was making only one tool post, I never made any drawings. Marc
I just had that problem , glad I had a tig welder!
I always stay away from the "general public" for they are "crazy" I like to stay "inside" my shop that is!
and the dad joke of the day award goes to...
Great repair Marc. I will have to put thatone in my repair chuck index. Thanks forsharing. Keep up the great work. Brian
Did i hear you right: you reverse direction when deburring? Why is that?
Thx.
Marty
+skeeterweazel Hi Marty! The file is a forward stroke cutting tool so when cutting on the external side of a part in rotation, you want the part to turn counter clockwise. However when cutting on the inside (with a file contacting the part at the bottom of the hole) you must turn the par clockwise. In other words you want the movement of the part to run against the unidirectional teeth in the proper direction. I hope this helps, thanks for watching and for commenting, Marc
Would a fine thread or a coarse one make a better extractor screw?
+Christopher Beasley - It depends on how accurate your threads are. With perfectly fitting threads, a fine pitch is stronger. With sloppy threads (loose fitting) the coarser thread may be stronger.
The reason a fine thread is theoretically stronger is this: consider the shear plane (what has to give way for the threads to strip). Assuming the male and female threads are made of the same strength metal, the shear plane will be a cylinder, with a diameter roughly the minor diameter of the thread. The minor diameter is (roughly) (pitch x Tan 60˚)/2 smaller than the nominal diameter. You can see that as the pitch increases, the thread goes deeper into the body of the screw. Since the minor diameter is getting smaller as the thread coarsens, the diameter of the shear plane cylinder will also get smaller and thus has less area. Less area of the shear plane means it would be easier to strip the thread. (This is also why when the nut and bolt are the same strength, it is almost always the bolt that strips - less area of metal to shear.)
Now, consider the case of a VERY sloppy thread; these threads are so sloppy that just the tips of the threads engage. The shear plane will be a thin helix out by the tips of the threads and almost any pressure will strip the tips off the threads. Threads in the real world are rarely that sloppy. A thread with a moderate amount of clearance will engage less than the maximum depth of the thread. On a coarse thread, 0.010" of clearance will be a much smaller percentage of the total thread depth than it would be on a very fine thread.
I hope this helps you understand not only which thread is stronger, but why.
Yes, I guess you got a goodvoriginal there.
Bonjour Marc,
Je vois que vous commencez toujours par publier vos nouvelles videos en anglais, puis longtemps après seulement en français :(
Ce n'est pas rassurant, en plus d’être frustrant.
J'ai peur que vous décidiez finalement de produire uniquement en anglais.
Les anglophones ont déjà tellement de choix de videos sur l'usinage, floods ne publie plus depuis un long moment, si vous nous laissez tomber, nous n'aurons plus rien.
Rassurez moi s'il vous plait.
Another great vid Mark. Thank you.