Definitely would like another helpful video from you on similar use of texturing tools. More closeups would be my suggestion. But I want to try your suggestions from this video now. Thanks!
Thank you! My goal is to cover a lot of the basics in the short videos, then utilize the longer videos for the techniques that people have a lot of questions about. So, please let us know if there's something you'd like us to cover in more depth.
Really enjoying your videos and subbed your channel as well. As with some of the others a bit closer look even if it's a still after the work so we get a close up of the work would be great.
You forget to tell em to wet it first. You DO know, some of us arn’t too bright.🤣😂🤣 NK. Thanks for sharing. My holster with a skull is coming along…. Its missing some teef tho😂
Since we were talking about Matting vs Backgroundung, that never crossed my mind. 🙂 Obviously that's important along with taping the back. 😁 Glad to hear it's coming along nicely! Can't wait to see it
I know you have received feedback about lighting/camera work but it didn't seem bad to me, I got the gist of it but I guess others have struggled... Anyway my question, is the pebble backgrounder machined to be the same pattern on all stamps or is it random (I guess different manufacturers would be). Would it be advisable to use a couple of the same sized tools to achieve variation or is that just overkill? Thanks in advance.
Thank you. I was a little surprised to hear the feedback about the lighting and the angles, but if it makes, the videos better, I'm open to it. 🙂 If we're talking about a specific tool...just to make one up "E-201"...then it should be the same across the board. It's machined and mass produced. It seems like the pattern is the same, just comrpressed when you go down to a smaller version of the stamp, but I could easily be wrong about that...just my impression. As far as using a few of the same size tools. I would only overlay background textures in specific circumstances, and thats really going to come down to a case by case basis. Its rare that I'll overlap different textures. If we're talking about the same texture, but different size stamps...I will typically do that if I'm trying to get into a tighter area, or if I want a finer texture. Larger stamps often have more aggressive textures. Hope that helps.
@@DanielReachCreations I guess you will always have criticism/advice and if it's constructive then it's not a bad thing! Thanks for answering my query it makes perfect sense now, I wasn't sure if the machining was random but mass produced I doubt it! The drawback of purchasing online is the lack of being able to see a tool before you purchase so videos like this are a great help.
@DS Exactly. If the videos are about ego, then the advice seems like a personal attack. If the videos are to help others, then the advice is typically appreciated. 🙂 Happy to do it. Please let me know if there's anything else I should put on the list for videos.
Got question for ya. I was putting an edge groove on a piece and going one way on the leather it grooved fine but when I flipped it around to groove the other side, it skipped out and made a bit of a mess. Was this caused by cheap tanning of the leather or cheap edging tool, or my technique?
Hi Alex, Thats a great question. If it's truly a right side vs left side kind of thing, I doubt it would be the tool or your technique. I've run into the same thing when beveling the edge of leather. One side is like butter, the other side is beveling sandpaper. My impression is that it's from the grain in the leather, but I could easily be wrong about that. I've reached out to Weaver to get their input on it...I'll let you know what they say.
@@DanielReachCreations thanks. I have since bought a new tool and leather (both from Weaver) I'll let you know if that makes a difference or not as well. The leather looks much better than what I have.
Hey, I was going to send you a couple pics of the edging but I can't seem to here in the comments. Bottom line, the new Weaver tool does make a difference, but it did still "butter" (I think was the word you used) just not as bad. Haven't tried the two tools on the new leather yet.
Thank you this is helpful!! I feel that I've been not getting as much from my stamps as I should. I usually have my leather on a cutting mat, does having the leather on a piece of granite make that much difference?
You're very welcome, and yes! Absolutely. The only time I wouldn't have a stone under my work is when I'm tooling very thin leather (1-2oz). The stone forces the leather to absorb and react to the stamp, where a mat can absorb some of the "force." Your leather can feel spongy without a stone under it.
@@DanielReachCreations ok, that makes sense, like using a dolly or anvil for metal working. I'm still new to the hobby and figuring out the wants vs the needs, and I really didn't want a big rock on my work bench lol.
@@DanielReachCreations is there a limit to how thin? I've seen some samples at the home improvement stores but they were only like 1/2 inch thick. I've used some of the larger craftool 3d stamps that I've had to beat pretty hard.
@Doug Mulle if you're really needing to beat on it, you probably need more moisture in the leather. Mine is about 1" thick. Some of it depends on the type of stone, but I wouldn't go any thinner than 1".
Hey Jack, No reason to be gentle...that was a great question. The answer is "not typically." If it's done correctly, and towards the end of the project, then it shouldn't "rebound" (my word...not an industry term). One of the things that could cause it to rebound would be re-wetting the leather multiple times. When we wet/case the leather, it swells a little...this can cause you to lose definition in your carving. It's okay to re-wet the leather while tooling...I do it all the time. You just need to be aware of not over saturating it, and realize that you might have to touch up some of the details as a final step. But truthfully...I do that anyway, so no big deal.
@@DanielReachCreations I think it's worth noting that if a tooled area is re-wet (re-cased is another term for it), not only could the tooling lose some physical definition, but the burnish - the darkening of the tooling - could be lost, necessitating additional finishing steps (like highlighting or antiquing) for the same appearance. So... It's important to either maintain the moisture content over the course of a project, or limit re-casing only to areas that specifically need it.
Definitely would like another helpful video from you on similar use of texturing tools. More closeups would be my suggestion. But I want to try your suggestions from this video now. Thanks!
Another great video Mr. Reach, thank you
I found this helpful. Liked that it wasn’t to long.
Thank you! My goal is to cover a lot of the basics in the short videos, then utilize the longer videos for the techniques that people have a lot of questions about. So, please let us know if there's something you'd like us to cover in more depth.
That was a VERY helpful video indeed. 👌🏻👍🏻
Very much appreciated. 🤝
Thank you! So glad to hear that
Answering a question I didn't realize I had. Thank you.
Glad it helped! 🙂
What thickness leather were you using in the demo, weight and mils please?
Thanks this is very helpful
Really enjoying your videos and subbed your channel as well. As with some of the others a bit closer look even if it's a still after the work so we get a close up of the work would be great.
Thank you! Already working it into the upcoming videos. Thanks for the friendly feedback.
Thanks for the instructional videos. It is helping me to improve my leatherwork. God bless.
LOVE these videos!
i think the lighting could be better, since a camera adjustment might not fix the issue of the textures not showing up.
Thanks. It's a balance between enough and too much light. I've got two lights on it already, but I'll see what I can do to adjust it going forward.
Get closer shots of the heads of your carving tools. Great presentation. 👍
You forget to tell em to wet it first. You DO know, some of us arn’t too bright.🤣😂🤣
NK. Thanks for sharing. My holster with a skull is coming along…. Its missing some teef tho😂
Since we were talking about Matting vs Backgroundung, that never crossed my mind. 🙂 Obviously that's important along with taping the back. 😁
Glad to hear it's coming along nicely! Can't wait to see it
I know you have received feedback about lighting/camera work but it didn't seem bad to me, I got the gist of it but I guess others have struggled... Anyway my question, is the pebble backgrounder machined to be the same pattern on all stamps or is it random (I guess different manufacturers would be). Would it be advisable to use a couple of the same sized tools to achieve variation or is that just overkill? Thanks in advance.
Thank you. I was a little surprised to hear the feedback about the lighting and the angles, but if it makes, the videos better, I'm open to it. 🙂
If we're talking about a specific tool...just to make one up "E-201"...then it should be the same across the board. It's machined and mass produced. It seems like the pattern is the same, just comrpressed when you go down to a smaller version of the stamp, but I could easily be wrong about that...just my impression.
As far as using a few of the same size tools. I would only overlay background textures in specific circumstances, and thats really going to come down to a case by case basis. Its rare that I'll overlap different textures.
If we're talking about the same texture, but different size stamps...I will typically do that if I'm trying to get into a tighter area, or if I want a finer texture. Larger stamps often have more aggressive textures.
Hope that helps.
@@DanielReachCreations I guess you will always have criticism/advice and if it's constructive then it's not a bad thing! Thanks for answering my query it makes perfect sense now, I wasn't sure if the machining was random but mass produced I doubt it!
The drawback of purchasing online is the lack of being able to see a tool before you purchase so videos like this are a great help.
@DS Exactly. If the videos are about ego, then the advice seems like a personal attack. If the videos are to help others, then the advice is typically appreciated. 🙂
Happy to do it. Please let me know if there's anything else I should put on the list for videos.
Good question
The First Shows set of Pabbels backrounder was grinded round?
Actually, no. They came like that.
@@DanielReachCreations trank you vor the fast repliziert. My Cnc machined set was edgy unfortumately .
Good info
Got question for ya. I was putting an edge groove on a piece and going one way on the leather it grooved fine but when I flipped it around to groove the other side, it skipped out and made a bit of a mess. Was this caused by cheap tanning of the leather or cheap edging tool, or my technique?
Hi Alex,
Thats a great question. If it's truly a right side vs left side kind of thing, I doubt it would be the tool or your technique. I've run into the same thing when beveling the edge of leather. One side is like butter, the other side is beveling sandpaper. My impression is that it's from the grain in the leather, but I could easily be wrong about that. I've reached out to Weaver to get their input on it...I'll let you know what they say.
@@DanielReachCreations thanks. I have since bought a new tool and leather (both from Weaver) I'll let you know if that makes a difference or not as well.
The leather looks much better than what I have.
Hey, I was going to send you a couple pics of the edging but I can't seem to here in the comments. Bottom line, the new Weaver tool does make a difference, but it did still "butter" (I think was the word you used) just not as bad. Haven't tried the two tools on the new leather yet.
Thank you this is helpful!! I feel that I've been not getting as much from my stamps as I should. I usually have my leather on a cutting mat, does having the leather on a piece of granite make that much difference?
You're very welcome, and yes! Absolutely. The only time I wouldn't have a stone under my work is when I'm tooling very thin leather (1-2oz).
The stone forces the leather to absorb and react to the stamp, where a mat can absorb some of the "force." Your leather can feel spongy without a stone under it.
@@DanielReachCreations ok, that makes sense, like using a dolly or anvil for metal working. I'm still new to the hobby and figuring out the wants vs the needs, and I really didn't want a big rock on my work bench lol.
@@dougmulle2627 I get it. It didn't have to be big. You can get them pretty small... like 8x8.
@@DanielReachCreations is there a limit to how thin? I've seen some samples at the home improvement stores but they were only like 1/2 inch thick. I've used some of the larger craftool 3d stamps that I've had to beat pretty hard.
@Doug Mulle if you're really needing to beat on it, you probably need more moisture in the leather.
Mine is about 1" thick. Some of it depends on the type of stone, but I wouldn't go any thinner than 1".
I wish your camera work as a little better so we can see what you’re actually doing and you’re doing it
I will do my best to make sure you get the best view possible going forward.
Yes a few closer ups would help
Yes, this was a little helpful but we need to see closeups of what you’re talking about.
Q: Once the leather has been pressed, if it gets wet will it return to it's former shape, I'm a noob so please be gentle?
Hey Jack,
No reason to be gentle...that was a great question. The answer is "not typically." If it's done correctly, and towards the end of the project, then it shouldn't "rebound" (my word...not an industry term). One of the things that could cause it to rebound would be re-wetting the leather multiple times. When we wet/case the leather, it swells a little...this can cause you to lose definition in your carving. It's okay to re-wet the leather while tooling...I do it all the time. You just need to be aware of not over saturating it, and realize that you might have to touch up some of the details as a final step. But truthfully...I do that anyway, so no big deal.
@@DanielReachCreations I think it's worth noting that if a tooled area is re-wet (re-cased is another term for it), not only could the tooling lose some physical definition, but the burnish - the darkening of the tooling - could be lost, necessitating additional finishing steps (like highlighting or antiquing) for the same appearance. So... It's important to either maintain the moisture content over the course of a project, or limit re-casing only to areas that specifically need it.
@@mikedeloach6849 All great pounts!
Some close ups would’ve been good.
💯👍🙏
You keep saying notice it we can’t see anything because of camera so far away and it’s not a close-up. No idea what you’re doing.
Thanks for the feedback. The 4k camera is only about 12" away from the leather, but I will try to pull in tighter going forward.