OEM clutch finally gave out , recently got these ones installed and was super light when it was finished. Gonna get some time getting use to it. Hadn’t stalled in years but performance wise it’s incredible!
Im gonna be doing this with the same clutch and flywheel in a couple months. Just ordered some Quickjacks to make it easier. This is the best video for an STI clutch replacement on RUclips! Beleive me I've watched them all lol
@blankman4320 Install never happened. Cars been in the garage since last June, spun a rod bearing...Had to buy a beater to get me to work and back. Currently saving for an IAG Shortblock and all the other crap I have to scrap lol
Great video. Well toned and very informative. Loved all the torque specs and video placement. This helped me do a 6 speed sti conversion into my 09 xt forester.
Awesome video. Its straight to the point with no nonsence or tryhard jokes that waste time while your hands are dirty, Can you tell me if all of the torque spec's are the same for every year subaru (2004-2021)???
Thank you so much! That was what we were going for! Straight to the point. No celebrities, fashion, hype about the company, etc. We want these videos to be relevant many years from now. Our goal is to become a trusted source of information. The torque specs are only for the 2017 we performed the install on, and they do vary over different years. Please consult the factory manual for the correct torque specs for your year, make, and model.
Installing this clutch with push type pressure plate on the same transmission. Converting the clutch slave cylinder from pull to push. There is conversion kit in Australia but could not find it for sale anywhere on the web, so will be making own one.
I'm currently in middle or mine. I removed the cap put in the 6mm bolt and I wish the release lever shaft came out as easy as this video makes it look. I have spent 4 hours trying everything to get that out and it just isn't moving
Does this video address the issue of getting the throwout bearing to “click” into place? OEM bearing grabs easily to a stock clutch but not so much the act street clutch
Getting the bearing to “click” into place is shown in the video @ 11:56. The ACT Monoloc included on our pressure plates is a bit more robust than the OEM bearing retaining collar and will need a little more force to get the bearing to seat into it. There should be no issues.
@@AdvancedClutchTechnology thanks for the quick response! I’m definitely having issues and confirming many others within the Subaru forums having the same issue. Planning on pulling the tranny to re-seat it at this point.
I just finished installing this kit on my 2015 STI. Bites hard !! But now my rear camera and reverse lights are out. Fuses and harness look good, what could have caused these issues ?
Check to make sure that at the top of the transmission the transmission wire harness and ground have been reconnected. You can refer to our video @ 02:21. If they are connected, then check the backup lamp switch on the transmission itself.
It is in our opinion that removing the engine to replace the clutch/flywheel is much harder than removing the transmission. Removing the hood, disconnecting fuel lines, draining the coolant system, disconnecting all the wiring, possibly removing or disconnecting the power steering pump, possibly disconnecting and evacuating the HVAC system and most assuredly other things that need to be disconnected or removed as well as other tools needed (such as an engine hoist). All these items associated with removing the engine makes a solid case for only removing the components needed to be able to remove the transmission and of course the transmission itself. And then think that everything must be reinstalled, fluids filled and HVAC possibly charged. Take into consideration that we have a lift in our factory and we remove and install clutches/flywheels frequently for testing on a multitude of vehicle makes and models. Again, that’s just our opinion. Someone who works on Subaru’s specifically might have another opinion on this and may have some shortcuts to make engine removal easier and faster.
Yes, you will have to remove the release lever shaft. If you do not, you will not be able to lift up the release lever to free it from the bearing which is attached to the pressure plate. If you do not free the fork from the bearing, you won’t be able to remove the transmission.
@@FMCWIZZI Make sure the slave is removed from the fork so that there is no load on the shaft. Try and have someone wiggle the fork while you try and remove it. If that doesn’t work, probably not easy due to the tight space, but you may have to find a way to get something under the bolt head if it sticks out enough and leverage it out, if not use a longer bolt and try again.
Thank you for question. In our many years of clutch testing, development and manufacturing, we feel that 11.8 ft./lbs. is awfully low for a M8 X 1.25 bolt. We have seen them back out causing disengagement issues and our pressure plate does have a higher clamp load than the OE pressure plate. Because of these reasons, we do recommend a higher torque (25 ft./lbs.) over the OE for the pressure plate fastening hardware.
so curious . i just had my clutch done on my 18 sti. car has been getting some weird vibrations and not smooth power delivery at certain rpm’s. just seen that the white marks on the driveshaft yoke at end are 180 from each other .. could this be my issue????
Is the vibration only happening when the vehicle is moving? If you place it in neutral and rev it throughout the rpm range, does it vibrate then? If the answer is yes for the first question and no for the second question; this would mean that it is something in the drive train. While the drive shaft is balanced from the factory, we have experienced vibration when installing them with the markings not lined up. This is why we usually mark them ourselves during disassembly and then install them lining the marks up. Also, something else to look as it the center bearing of the drive shaft. If that is worn in even the slightest manner, vibration can result. Lastly, check all motor and transmission mounts, if any of them are worn or loose, this may also cause vibrations.
@@paxtondirk8826 had motor and transmission mounts replaced a month ago. and yes when revving in neutral car is perfect no vibrations. only when moving. i actually have it in the shop now and having them line up the driveshaft properly
@@AdvancedClutchTechnology yes everything is back! i know the shop personally they let me come out and look while it was on the lift. he was showing me the slight play the carrier bearing but said it was normal . otherwise it wouldn’t soak up the vibrations . marks are lined up and feeling good!
Hey I was woundering do all Subaru sti have the clutch return spring ? I noticed when I took apart mine I didint have one ? I’m about to put it all together but I don’t want to skimp out on it any help is greatly appreciated!!
So if anyone else runs into the same situation as me the 2020 sti dose not have a clutch return spring !! Also the mounting for the trans mission case is a little bit different!!
If you are referring to the return spring at the top of the transmission connecting to the shift fork, from the research we have done, it looks like the the return spring was equipped on all 2004 and up Sti models. The OEM part number is 30546AA060. There should also be a bracket for the spring to install to also on top of the transmission The OEM part number for the bracket is 30548AA010.
Has the release lever been freed from the release bearing as shown in the vide @ 06:36? If so, double check that all bell housing bolts are removed. If they are, then unfortunately it can be that the alignment dowels may be corroded securing the transmission to the back of the engine. If this is the case, you will have to find a safe spot in between the transmission and back of the engine and try and pry the transmission away from the back of the engine while someone wiggles the transmission and pulls it rearward until it clears the dowels.
@paxtondirk8826 it was dowels. Spent 5 hours trying different things but screwdriver and hammer at the seam worked. Also had a heck of a time getting it back on but it's all taken care of now
@@trillbreh3644 mark the position of the bolts with an ink maker you wouldn’t need an alignment and trust the ball joints are more likely to break removing them then just pulling the axle and even with marks the strut bolts do not have adjustments it’s 2 straight holes
@@AutoExpectations Make sure the slave is removed from the fork so that there is no load on the shaft. Try and have someone wiggle the fork while you try and remove the shaft. If that doesn’t work, probably not easy due to the tight space, but you may have to find a way to get something under the bolt head if it sticks out enough and leverage it out, if not use a longer bolt and try again. Attached is a link from another youtuber removing the shaft from the engine compartment. ruclips.net/video/U0uuJRlJHL0/видео.html
@@AdvancedClutchTechnology I tried everything listed and then some. Ended up breaking the bolt I screwed in lol. So white flag was raised it's at a shop now getting fix
I was gonna replace it myself but I think I rather open up an Only Fans account.
OEM clutch finally gave out , recently got these ones installed and was super light when it was finished. Gonna get some time getting use to it. Hadn’t stalled in years but performance wise it’s incredible!
That's great to hear! Thank you for the positive feedback!
How the clutch did you use oem flywheel or act
So glad you guys posted this video! I just bought this exact clutch and installing tomorrow for my next video! thanks!
Did it work?
Im gonna be doing this with the same clutch and flywheel in a couple months. Just ordered some Quickjacks to make it easier. This is the best video for an STI clutch replacement on RUclips! Beleive me I've watched them all lol
You're not wrong! Just did mine based solely on this video.
How did the install go?
@blankman4320 Install never happened. Cars been in the garage since last June, spun a rod bearing...Had to buy a beater to get me to work and back. Currently saving for an IAG Shortblock and all the other crap I have to scrap lol
Thanks for the video. I just installed this clutch and flywheel on my 2012 Sti and this video was extremely helpful and to the point.
Great video. Well toned and very informative. Loved all the torque specs and video placement. This helped me do a 6 speed sti conversion into my 09 xt forester.
Going to be getting a quote to do this on my STI. Depending on how much it costs, I might just do this myself, amazing video thank you!!!🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
what did the shop quote u
Thanks for the video. Straight and to the point 👍🏽
Super helpful!! One of the best videos on RUclips! Thank you act!!
Awesome video. Its straight to the point with no nonsence or tryhard jokes that waste time while your hands are dirty,
Can you tell me if all of the torque spec's are the same for every year subaru (2004-2021)???
Thank you so much! That was what we were going for! Straight to the point. No celebrities, fashion, hype about the company, etc. We want these videos to be relevant many years from now. Our goal is to become a trusted source of information. The torque specs are only for the 2017 we performed the install on, and they do vary over different years. Please consult the factory manual for the correct torque specs for your year, make, and model.
Super informative, thank you ACT
Installing this clutch with push type pressure plate on the same transmission. Converting the clutch slave cylinder from pull to push. There is conversion kit in Australia but could not find it for sale anywhere on the web, so will be making own one.
Nice. But what about the springs on the throw out bearing. Do they go in front or behind if the spring.
I'm currently in middle or mine. I removed the cap put in the 6mm bolt and I wish the release lever shaft came out as easy as this video makes it look. I have spent 4 hours trying everything to get that out and it just isn't moving
My toxic trait is thinking I can do this alone
Got 23k miles on my 21 sti and was watching these for the near future and my oh my😅
true,,,one of best video out there....
Does this video address the issue of getting the throwout bearing to “click” into place? OEM bearing grabs easily to a stock clutch but not so much the act street clutch
Getting the bearing to “click” into place is shown in the video @ 11:56. The ACT Monoloc included on our pressure plates is a bit more robust than the OEM bearing retaining collar and will need a little more force to get the bearing to seat into it. There should be no issues.
@@AdvancedClutchTechnology thanks for the quick response! I’m definitely having issues and confirming many others within the Subaru forums having the same issue. Planning on pulling the tranny to re-seat it at this point.
Thanks for help guys !
I just finished installing this kit on my 2015 STI. Bites hard !! But now my rear camera and reverse lights are out. Fuses and harness look good, what could have caused these issues ?
Check to make sure that at the top of the transmission the transmission wire harness and ground have been reconnected. You can refer to our video @ 02:21. If they are connected, then check the backup lamp switch on the transmission itself.
What about the quality of your provided release bearing? Will it start ratteling? So many guys advocate to use a stock subaru one.
The release bearing we include with our kits for the STi is designed to meet or exceed the OEM build quality.
is this method not more difficult than just pulling the engine?
It is in our opinion that removing the engine to replace the clutch/flywheel is much harder than removing the transmission. Removing the hood, disconnecting fuel lines, draining the coolant system, disconnecting all the wiring, possibly removing or disconnecting the power steering pump, possibly disconnecting and evacuating the HVAC system and most assuredly other things that need to be disconnected or removed as well as other tools needed (such as an engine hoist). All these items associated with removing the engine makes a solid case for only removing the components needed to be able to remove the transmission and of course the transmission itself. And then think that everything must be reinstalled, fluids filled and HVAC possibly charged. Take into consideration that we have a lift in our factory and we remove and install clutches/flywheels frequently for testing on a multitude of vehicle makes and models. Again, that’s just our opinion. Someone who works on Subaru’s specifically might have another opinion on this and may have some shortcuts to make engine removal easier and faster.
Is it necessary to remove the release lever shaft before lowering the transmission? Or can it be done once the transmission is lowered?
Yes, you will have to remove the release lever shaft. If you do not, you will not be able to lift up the release lever to free it from the bearing which is attached to the pressure plate. If you do not free the fork from the bearing, you won’t be able to remove the transmission.
Any tips on how to remove it? I got the screw in there already but i cant free it.
@@FMCWIZZI Make sure the slave is removed from the fork so that there is no load on the shaft. Try and have someone wiggle the fork while you try and remove it. If that doesn’t work, probably not easy due to the tight space, but you may have to find a way to get something under the bolt head if it sticks out enough and leverage it out, if not use a longer bolt and try again.
Thank you!!
Subaru says the pressure plate bolts only get torqued to 11.8 ft/lb , is is 11.8 or 25?
Thank you for question. In our many years of clutch testing, development and manufacturing, we feel that 11.8 ft./lbs. is awfully low for a M8 X 1.25 bolt. We have seen them back out causing disengagement issues and our pressure plate does have a higher clamp load than the OE pressure plate. Because of these reasons, we do recommend a higher torque (25 ft./lbs.) over the OE for the pressure plate fastening hardware.
so curious . i just had my clutch done on my 18 sti. car has been getting some weird vibrations and not smooth power delivery at certain rpm’s. just seen that the white marks on the driveshaft yoke at end are 180 from each other .. could this be my issue????
Is the vibration only happening when the vehicle is moving? If you place it in neutral and rev it throughout the rpm range, does it vibrate then? If the answer is yes for the first question and no for the second question; this would mean that it is something in the drive train. While the drive shaft is balanced from the factory, we have experienced vibration when installing them with the markings not lined up. This is why we usually mark them ourselves during disassembly and then install them lining the marks up. Also, something else to look as it the center bearing of the drive shaft. If that is worn in even the slightest manner, vibration can result. Lastly, check all motor and transmission mounts, if any of them are worn or loose, this may also cause vibrations.
@@paxtondirk8826 had motor and transmission mounts replaced a month ago. and yes when revving in neutral car is perfect no
vibrations. only when moving. i actually have it in the shop now and having them line up the driveshaft properly
@@BCyyGaming Let us know if this fixes the vibration issue.
@@AdvancedClutchTechnology yes everything is back! i know the shop personally they let me come out and look while it was on the lift. he was showing me the slight play the carrier bearing but said it was normal . otherwise it wouldn’t soak up the vibrations . marks are lined up and feeling good!
@@BCyyGaming That's great! Let us know if you have any other questions.
Is there a conversion required going from the OEM pull style to this ACT push style clutch system?
The ACT clutch kits for this application is a pull-style just like the OEM. It is not a push-type conversion.
Hey I was woundering do all Subaru sti have the clutch return spring ? I noticed when I took apart mine I didint have one ? I’m about to put it all together but I don’t want to skimp out on it any help is greatly appreciated!!
So if anyone else runs into the same situation as me the 2020 sti dose not have a clutch return spring !! Also the mounting for the trans mission case is a little bit different!!
If you are referring to the return spring at the top of the transmission connecting to the shift fork, from the research we have done, it looks like the the return spring was equipped on all 2004 and up Sti models. The OEM part number is 30546AA060. There should also be a bracket for the spring to install to also on top of the transmission The OEM part number for the bracket is 30548AA010.
My transmission is completely FROZEN on help!! All hardware is removed yet still completely connected at bell housing
Has the release lever been freed from the release bearing as shown in the vide @ 06:36? If so, double check that all bell housing bolts are removed. If they are, then unfortunately it can be that the alignment dowels may be corroded securing the transmission to the back of the engine. If this is the case, you will have to find a safe spot in between the transmission and back of the engine and try and pry the transmission away from the back of the engine while someone wiggles the transmission and pulls it rearward until it clears the dowels.
@paxtondirk8826 it was dowels. Spent 5 hours trying different things but screwdriver and hammer at the seam worked. Also had a heck of a time getting it back on but it's all taken care of now
@@tracelundy2584 It is not easy when something like that happens! We are glad to hear you got it done!
Great video
Do you re use the exhaust gaskets? or get new ones?
Ultimately we would recommend replacing them. There’s nothing worse than getting everything back to together only to have an exhaust leak!
For the ball joint section don’t bother it’s easier to remove 2 strut tower bolts then pull out the axle
but if you do that then you gotta align the vehicle, going off lower ball joints you don’t.
@@trillbreh3644 mark the position of the bolts with an ink maker you wouldn’t need an alignment and trust the ball joints are more likely to break removing them then just pulling the axle and even with marks the strut bolts do not have adjustments it’s 2 straight holes
Will this process work the same on 2018 STI?
The process is similar for all STI’s from 2004-2021.
@@AdvancedClutchTechnologyrelease lever shaft is not moving no matter what I do to it. Install the bolt in it and have tried for 4 hours and nothing
@@AutoExpectations Make sure the slave is removed from the fork so that there is no load on the shaft. Try and have someone wiggle the fork while you try and remove the shaft. If that doesn’t work, probably not easy due to the tight space, but you may have to find a way to get something under the bolt head if it sticks out enough and leverage it out, if not use a longer bolt and try again. Attached is a link from another youtuber removing the shaft from the engine compartment.
ruclips.net/video/U0uuJRlJHL0/видео.html
@@AdvancedClutchTechnology I tried everything listed and then some. Ended up breaking the bolt I screwed in lol. So white flag was raised it's at a shop now getting fix
If I have the stick flywheel can I still use a act clutch
Our SB11 kit is a conversion kit which must be used with our lightweight flywheel. It is not compatible with the OEM flywheel.
Pulling the transmission is the long way. Pull the engine is faster. 45 mins out 45 mins in and you are back to driving
If I gotta do all this for a clutch I'm tossing the junk glass stock motor and LS swapping. Way too much unnecessary work.
I just used this and had no problems whatsoever. You must not work on modern cars. This is easy 😂
@@michaelvento9598 I work on all my vehicles including diesels.....mainly foreign cars do stupid stuff like this