Thanks for your comment Michel. I find that with timber, you get better lamination of the fibreglass. I use British Standard marine ply which I find to be superior quality to Australian Standard marine ply and after I cut all the marine ply to shape, I then vacuum resin infuse each piece prior to fibreglassing them in place. I do not use any screws. Horses for courses I suppose, but I find our method works well and I have never had a transom crack or fail. I haven't actually tried using coosa myself, but I have seen a couple of coosa constructed transoms delaminate which have been brought to our workshop to repair, but that could have also been caused by incorrectly applying the first layer of fibreglass. If you don't get that first layer right, then the rest of the layers are a waste of time. There are also a number of other factors which could have caused that as well, but I won't get into that right now. Anyway, thanks for your comment, but I'll just stick to what I know works.
@@nickolbayboatcraft1631 True, but as with everything, prep is key.But I guess I'm biased since I have seen too many rotten transoms lol.Keep up the good work, I will be gladly watching .Sunny greetings from the Caribbean 🤙
very nicely done, my only question being...why? if at all, i would have gone the other way and replaced the outboards with inboards. what influenced your decisions regarding the conversion?
We got the engines for $30 K (ex commercial with 1000 hrs) and the rebuild cost $40K. As for fuel - they use about 40% less than the Volvo’s that were in it. She’s one hell of a boat though 😆👍🏻
![MURDER DRONES Series Finale [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/p6mhC5Iatns/mqdefault.jpg)
As an ex boatyard worker, I love the craftmanship, Personaly I wouldnt have used wood for that built, but coosa .. subbed btw
Thanks for your comment Michel. I find that with timber, you get better lamination of the fibreglass. I use British Standard marine ply which I find to be superior quality to Australian Standard marine ply and after I cut all the marine ply to shape, I then vacuum resin infuse each piece prior to fibreglassing them in place. I do not use any screws. Horses for courses I suppose, but I find our method works well and I have never had a transom crack or fail. I haven't actually tried using coosa myself, but I have seen a couple of coosa constructed transoms delaminate which have been brought to our workshop to repair, but that could have also been caused by incorrectly applying the first layer of fibreglass. If you don't get that first layer right, then the rest of the layers are a waste of time. There are also a number of other factors which could have caused that as well, but I won't get into that right now. Anyway, thanks for your comment, but I'll just stick to what I know works.
@@nickolbayboatcraft1631 True, but as with everything, prep is key.But I guess I'm biased since I have seen too many rotten transoms lol.Keep up the good work, I will be gladly watching .Sunny greetings from the Caribbean 🤙
It is my dream to rebuild skiboats. From old to new.
Great job, well done guys
What a job 👍
very nicely done, my only question being...why? if at all, i would have gone the other way and replaced the outboards with inboards. what influenced your decisions regarding the conversion?
Any idea what the flybridge top section weighed?.
simply great hull and result but mega dollars to do and so expensive fuel and maintenance, not for many
We got the engines for $30 K (ex commercial with 1000 hrs) and the rebuild cost $40K. As for fuel - they use about 40% less than the Volvo’s that were in it. She’s one hell of a boat though 😆👍🏻
Weapon