That's not "Bookmatching." That's just gluing consecutive boards side by side. Bookmatching would require you to take one of your boards and cut it like a sandwich roll so you are opening it like a book. You glue those two halves together and you have a bookmatched body.
I don’t see how just gluing side by side would remain strong enough. You’d think some sort of dowel or something would be used to give the glue joint more strength.
@@trevorhardy3544 If those edges are extremely flat, they'll be fine when glued together. From guitars and basses, and violins to contra-basses, that's how it's done.
@@ranecote yep in this case I would expect the glue joint to be stronger than the wood. If gluing the grain end to end rather than side by side, the wood should be stronger.
You can use the off cuts from when you cut the body out on the bandsaw as stabilizers when routing out the body. You really only need them around the horns but it works great if you don't have a table router, gives the router a surface to ride so it won't tip.
Cool tips! Ive built a few partscasters that turned out very nice, but really want to do full builds myself. I would love to get to the point where I could make my own designs and implement new ideas. One thing at a time, though. Thanks!
Great demonstration on the steps for building this strat style guitar. I learned a lot. Love your signs and t-shirt messages as well. Seems to be a lot more of us out there who love working with wood, building and playing guitar. What can we say, He also loved working with wood.
Got some nice ash , spruce and birch slabs drying out in the shed , gonna give this a go next year with hand tools. I have loads of reliced bits left over from old strats i used to have . I'll probably just buy a neck to bolt on
As soon as the router tipped I mumbled "fuck" to myself as if I was the one routing the wood at that point haha. Looks great so far. I'm going to watch pt. 2 right now.
Peter, thank you for this video. I respect a man who uses what he has on hand to create something special. I've been wanting to make a new body for my Jazz bass and, as far as neck cavity depth, I have an old Jazz bass body that I routed too much. I can use that. But I appreciate how you figure out how to make the 5150 work. Thanks again, Peter!
Nice work. One thing that can really help with routing around the horns of the guitar is to put a 1 foot by 1 foot square of 1/4 inch plexi glass on the base of the router so you can distribute the weight of the router over more of the guitar. I wrote this as I was watching. The other option would be to put the template on the bottom of the body and use that router table that you have.
I have a question: I noticed that when you joined the wood you didn't biscuit the joints. Is there a reason behind this? Can you biscuit joint? If so, is there anything you should watch out for?
Is gluing the body common practice? I believe it could be made of 1 piece of wood? Are there advantages/disadvantages of glued body or does it have no impact at all?
The best way to get the neck pocket perfect is to make the guitar neck 1st. Then you can hold the neck up to the front of the soon to be pocket and measure the bottom of the neck heel. At least it worked better for me that way.
Also want to keep in mind how high the bridge is going to be. Measure the bridge height from the string placement slots and the neck height from the bottom of the neck to the top of the fretwire, take the neck height - bridge height. That will be your depth.
Nice job, can’t go wrong with Mr. Josey Wales watching your back. The router tipping when used in that manner unsupported in the cutaways is gonna happen typically, either use some cuts from the body blank to support it or better yet use your router table and make this task foolproof. If you want to achieve a tight fitting neck pocket I always have my neck made first so I can use it to estimate pocket depth and of course fittment.
Measure the bridge height from the string placement slots to the bottom of the bridge and the neck height from the bottom of the neck to the top of the fretwire, take the neck height - bridge height. That will be your depth.
Cool guitar body! Thanks for including the oopsie with the router, it's a good example of what to watch out for, and you don't know how many people you really helped with that! Would it have made sense to use the router table with the bearing bit? It would mean that you don't see the template while you are routing, so that could be an even bigger issue.
Big VH fan here as well. But also a big Vito Bratta (White Lion) fan. I'd love to get a Steinberger GM2 body but instead of the routing for a Steinberger bridge, I'd like to get it routed for a Floyd Rose. Then I'd get the Sophia 2.92 tremolo and use that, since I would need it due to it having the full range tuners. Wanna build me a body and headless neck? 🙂
Almost four years down the line you’ve probably already learnt this, but for curious viewers: Kramer guitars use Fender specs for their neck joints. If you’re curious about how deep you should route the neck pocket, it’s the same as any Fender Guitar: 5/8 inches (16 mm)
On the collar of your router, look for a spiral line that goes all around the device. Then, notice there is what looks like a peice of metal or plastic that set around the device and scrolls in the grooves. Kinda like a collar. Turn that collar either clock wise or counter clockwise, and you will notice the bit going up or down. It extends and pulls in the bit into the frame so you can adjust the depth of your routing bit. It turns the whole thing into an adjustable depth router. You don't need to get creative when setting the depth doing a job.
On the planing part, take the hand plane that you have and you can set it up in a fixed position, although you would need to build a jig for it. That way you know the sides of the board are plaved perfectly. If you are really creative. You can even set up and adjustable jig so that you can plane the side of whatever you want, to any angle you want. There are plenty of videos showing us how to do it. Take care.
Can I ask if a 9 inch band saw is worth buying? Or would a table saw or some other equipment for around $180.00 be better to spend my money on. I have a router and router table, an oscillating spindle sander, 3 hand plans, and wood chisels. I just dont know what to get to help my guitar building.
Northern ash!! Wow bet that was very expensive I love it,I really wish I could do this I'd have all the patience and be willing to learn it all,but I dont and definitely couldn't afford the tools to do it i love it though
You can use one piece, but finding a piece of wood that's the right width is harder. If you can't find a piece of wood that's the right size, making the body from 2 pieces is pretty normal with building guitars.
Many have asked, but unfortunately they're not available on Amazon anymore. When others have asked, I researched my shopping history on amazon, found the listing for these templates, and confirmed they are not available for purchase anymore. If they were, I would have definitely put a link in the description. Thanks! 😁
That's a beautiful guitar. I've made one similar out of oak mahogany and an old pub table from Glasgow Scotland. My video is nearly two hours long though :)
Boa tarde Pedro! Parabéns belo trabalho. Olha seria possível vc disponibinizar o Pdf desta guitarra favor, pelo que percebi é um Modelo Kramer 5150. Se puder eu fico muito agradecido
Don’t Floyd rose trems come with cut out instructions? I always thought they did. Which would have your depth and height measurements. But not sure there used to be a floyd rose forum that pretty much had any answer you were looking for. Project is looking great. You got more nerve than me ,,that’s for sure. Good Luck with your maiden build!
Putting that pattern bit in your router table and using that to cut with your template is much easier and keeps you from tipping the router and having those issues. Thats what I do. Works well. For pockets you usually do those after you have your neck and hardware that way you can measure what you have and cut accordingly. I'd just do like 1/4" deep at first and then final depth once you measure your other parts.
Instant liked and subscribed! I love the way you're working, everything is clean, calm, precise and well explained! Also love evh myself! Keep rocking brother! 🤘❤️
Looks awesome!!! All you had to do was mention 5150 and Kramer and I was sold. I wonder if purchasing an inexpensive mock version of either / both would provide more accurate details, in regards to the depth of the cavities etc. Great stuff!!! 🤟🏻💀🤟🏻
You could have just googled the depth of a bolt on neck pocket for a strat style guitar. Different body styles don't have deeper neck pockets they are all the same.
You shouldn't rout the neck pocket until you have a neck, you take measurements from the neck and the relationship between the hight of the bridge you will be using and neck. Same with the cavities, if you haven't made your cavity covers there is no way to know how deed to rout the recess. Just trying to help, hope it comes off that way.
Yes, yes ,yes! I was thinking the same thing. No need to do a body route until the neck is done. That way your neck is your go/no-go gage for the pocket. I will say, the body is fun to make and it’s very tempting to make it before the neck.
I only went back to check a few clips and it seemed like he was not climb cutting. But aside from that, climb cutting does have some utility to actually prevent tear out. Sometimes following the "correct" direction with the router means that your bit is cutting against the grain and that can cause tear out especially near corners. You can climb cut to prevent tear out in these situations. But you do have to go slow and be careful.
That's not "Bookmatching." That's just gluing consecutive boards side by side. Bookmatching would require you to take one of your boards and cut it like a sandwich roll so you are opening it like a book. You glue those two halves together and you have a bookmatched body.
I don’t see how just gluing side by side would remain strong enough. You’d think some sort of dowel or something would be used to give the glue joint more strength.
@@trevorhardy3544 If those edges are extremely flat, they'll be fine when glued together. From guitars and basses, and violins to contra-basses, that's how it's done.
More than strong enough with just the glue
sometimes, the wood glue is stronger then the wood.
@@ranecote yep in this case I would expect the glue joint to be stronger than the wood. If gluing the grain end to end rather than side by side, the wood should be stronger.
Part Two? I'd love to see the final results.
You can use the off cuts from when you cut the body out on the bandsaw as stabilizers when routing out the body. You really only need them around the horns but it works great if you don't have a table router, gives the router a surface to ride so it won't tip.
In these times we need the return of this legend
Cool tips! Ive built a few partscasters that turned out very nice, but really want to do full builds myself. I would love to get to the point where I could make my own designs and implement new ideas. One thing at a time, though. Thanks!
That yoga mat trick is so smart. Totally stealing that. Thanks and subscribed!
Dude! When are u gonna make another video on this
Where’s part 2? I hope you continued with your progress!
We need a Pt. 2!
4 months and he still didnt come up with pt2...
8 months
9 months
11 months
3 years
Great demonstration on the steps for building this strat style guitar. I learned a lot. Love your signs and t-shirt messages as well. Seems to be a lot more of us out there who love working with wood, building and playing guitar. What can we say, He also loved working with wood.
Got some nice ash , spruce and birch slabs drying out in the shed , gonna give this a go next year with hand tools. I have loads of reliced bits left over from old strats i used to have . I'll probably just buy a neck to bolt on
I think its time for a eddie van halen tribute
The bumblebee or 5150 would be awesome
I second this wholeheartedly!
Christ died for you choose him today he loves you.
@@samanderson6079 i would love the bumblebee becau dimebag was buried with it
@@apostle7772 ok
This is great . Thanks bro ! Love the shirts too btw
Really keen to see more, I am in the research stages to my own build and thought this was extremely helpful
Just out of curiosity, did you ever get out of the research stage and build your own?
@@paulyguitary7651 The financial crisis in the UK prevented me from going further sadly
As soon as the router tipped I mumbled "fuck" to myself as if I was the one routing the wood at that point haha.
Looks great so far. I'm going to watch pt. 2 right now.
Peter, thank you for this video. I respect a man who uses what he has on hand to create something special. I've been wanting to make a new body for my Jazz bass and, as far as neck cavity depth, I have an old Jazz bass body that I routed too much. I can use that. But I appreciate how you figure out how to make the 5150 work. Thanks again, Peter!
Nice work. One thing that can really help with routing around the horns of the guitar is to put a 1 foot by 1 foot square of 1/4 inch plexi glass on the base of the router so you can distribute the weight of the router over more of the guitar. I wrote this as I was watching. The other option would be to put the template on the bottom of the body and use that router table that you have.
You had me at “Im a big Van Halen fan”
Sad.. 😔
where are the other parts bud?
Captivating presentation. Nice t-shirt btw.
Awesome video. Cant wait to see the rest
Really liked you video -- u have a link for your templates?
I have a question:
I noticed that when you joined the wood you didn't biscuit the joints.
Is there a reason behind this?
Can you biscuit joint?
If so, is there anything you should watch out for?
Is gluing the body common practice? I believe it could be made of 1 piece of wood? Are there advantages/disadvantages of glued body or does it have no impact at all?
How deep the neck pocket will/should depend on how thick you want to keep the neck ..(just a thought) .. great stuff
Exactly, I have strat necks that are very similar, but the thickness at the heel differs by a couple to several millimeters.
The best way to get the neck pocket perfect is to make the guitar neck 1st.
Then you can hold the neck up to the front of the soon to be pocket and measure the bottom of the neck heel. At least it worked better for me that way.
Also want to keep in mind how high the bridge is going to be. Measure the bridge height from the string placement slots and the neck height from the bottom of the neck to the top of the fretwire, take the neck height - bridge height. That will be your depth.
Still working on it?? Body looks great!
Love the shirt 🙏🏻. You got that right.
Nice guitar as well Sir.👍
What about the cavities for the wires?
Would be awesome if you could link the Amazon link
Nice job, can’t go wrong with Mr. Josey Wales watching your back. The router tipping when used in that manner unsupported in the cutaways is gonna happen typically, either use some cuts from the body blank to support it or better yet use your router table and make this task foolproof. If you want to achieve a tight fitting neck pocket I always have my neck made first so I can use it to estimate pocket depth and of course fittment.
Measure the bridge height from the string placement slots to the bottom of the bridge and the neck height from the bottom of the neck to the top of the fretwire, take the neck height - bridge height. That will be your depth.
Any part two?
Cool vid brother and i love your choices in T- shirts. God bless
This was super helpful for my build. Keep it up bro.
Cool guitar body! Thanks for including the oopsie with the router, it's a good example of what to watch out for, and you don't know how many people you really helped with that! Would it have made sense to use the router table with the bearing bit? It would mean that you don't see the template while you are routing, so that could be an even bigger issue.
Building some gigs would help you on the contour shaping on your belt sander. Good job for your limited tools. Two thumbs up.
Nice where can I find the template for the body 😊
So beautiful wood pattern
Big VH fan here as well. But also a big Vito Bratta (White Lion) fan. I'd love to get a Steinberger GM2 body but instead of the routing for a Steinberger bridge, I'd like to get it routed for a Floyd Rose. Then I'd get the Sophia 2.92 tremolo and use that, since I would need it due to it having the full range tuners. Wanna build me a body and headless neck? 🙂
I know I'm late to this video, but I'm just starting to get into guitar making and your video is awesome dude! Very informative for a newbie.
The template does not have depth for pickups and neck slot because it depends on the size of the neck and the pickups
You Really Got Me with that "Big EVH fan"
Hello I have strat guitar recently I found that the strings tension is very hard so what should I do???? Plz help me out. Thanks
Tune it to standard with lower gauge strings. What do you mean the tension is hard though?
Almost four years down the line you’ve probably already learnt this, but for curious viewers: Kramer guitars use Fender specs for their neck joints. If you’re curious about how deep you should route the neck pocket, it’s the same as any Fender Guitar: 5/8 inches (16 mm)
On the collar of your router, look for a spiral line that goes all around the device. Then, notice there is what looks like a peice of metal or plastic that set around the device and scrolls in the grooves. Kinda like a collar. Turn that collar either clock wise or counter clockwise, and you will notice the bit going up or down. It extends and pulls in the bit into the frame so you can adjust the depth of your routing bit. It turns the whole thing into an adjustable depth router. You don't need to get creative when setting the depth doing a job.
You can now buy plexiglass templates for use on a larger router table, what he's doing in reverse
I just saw your video awesome job. I want to try it but I can't find the templates online could you help me with that or sell me a template??
awesome job
On the planing part, take the hand plane that you have and you can set it up in a fixed position, although you would need to build a jig for it. That way you know the sides of the board are plaved perfectly. If you are really creative. You can even set up and adjustable jig so that you can plane the side of whatever you want, to any angle you want. There are plenty of videos showing us how to do it. Take care.
Why does one have to use a plainer if it’s going to be cut on a saw again?
If he didn't plane it, the edges might still be crooked, then going along the guide on the tablesaw would make the cut crooked
Awesome video. Any further progress on this build?
Can I ask if a 9 inch band saw is worth buying? Or would a table saw or some other equipment for around $180.00 be better to spend my money on. I have a router and router table, an oscillating spindle sander, 3 hand plans, and wood chisels. I just dont know what to get to help my guitar building.
Just shim the neck back i found works,even when you are at the mercy of choosing a neck to use vs making one.
Just found your channel . Thank you.
unless you angled your neck pocket you may have issues with the floyd being on top of the body
I’m here a year later asking for a part 2 lol great job!
Northern ash!! Wow bet that was very expensive I love it,I really wish I could do this I'd have all the patience and be willing to learn it all,but I dont and definitely couldn't afford the tools to do it i love it though
wow.. i hope i will make my guitar too
Hi! I'd love to know that why do you need to make the body from 2 pieces and glue them together? Or you can just use 1 piece?
You can use one piece, but finding a piece of wood that's the right width is harder. If you can't find a piece of wood that's the right size, making the body from 2 pieces is pretty normal with building guitars.
@@deltabearlines9321 Thanks for the reply!
Any chance of getting a link for those templates? I've been looking around but they all seem extortionate
Many have asked, but unfortunately they're not available on Amazon anymore. When others have asked, I researched my shopping history on amazon, found the listing for these templates, and confirmed they are not available for purchase anymore. If they were, I would have definitely put a link in the description. Thanks!
😁
Router is essential, dude!
That's a beautiful guitar. I've made one similar out of oak mahogany and an old pub table from Glasgow Scotland. My video is nearly two hours long though :)
Boa tarde Pedro! Parabéns belo trabalho. Olha seria possível vc disponibinizar o Pdf desta guitarra favor, pelo que percebi é um Modelo Kramer 5150. Se puder eu fico muito agradecido
How big is the wood ? I wanna make my own could u give it to me on mm LXW
Love the shirt and awesome work
Why not a balance with same height when routing, to prevent it from "tipping?" :(
Good job
How about a dust mask?
Great job!!! I must mention though…the 5150 was not based on a Baretta body. It was closest to a Pacer body.
I had a floyd rose on a kirk hammett esp. Hated it. Sold that sucker quick.
Don’t Floyd rose trems come with cut out instructions?
I always thought they did. Which would have your depth and height measurements.
But not sure there used to be a floyd rose forum that pretty much had any answer you were looking for.
Project is looking great. You got more nerve than me ,,that’s for sure. Good Luck with your maiden build!
Please make a part 2!
can't wait to see part 2
how much cost only the body?
Nice video! May I ask what you paid for the northern ash plank?
So how deep did you need to make everything?
How should all the holes be?
great video!
Cant you build red special nrian may
Well done. Thanks for this vid.
Great video, huge appreciation for the build.
do you know where to find paper templates for free
Putting that pattern bit in your router table and using that to cut with your template is much easier and keeps you from tipping the router and having those issues. Thats what I do. Works well. For pockets you usually do those after you have your neck and hardware that way you can measure what you have and cut accordingly. I'd just do like 1/4" deep at first and then final depth once you measure your other parts.
Very helpful video for a beginner many thanks. Congrats on your weight loss 👍 Also loving the shirt logos
Instant liked and subscribed! I love the way you're working, everything is clean, calm, precise and well explained! Also love evh myself! Keep rocking brother! 🤘❤️
Part 2 please
Hey dude where is part 2 for the rest of this build???
Looks awesome!!! All you had to do was mention 5150 and Kramer and I was sold. I wonder if purchasing an inexpensive mock version of either / both would provide more accurate details, in regards to the depth of the cavities etc.
Great stuff!!! 🤟🏻💀🤟🏻
Where’s part 2??
I have a doubt, Os this guitar body is the same as a stratocaster's body?
Because I am interested in make a new guitar, but I don't have any project
You could have just googled the depth of a bolt on neck pocket for a strat style guitar. Different body styles don't have deeper neck pockets they are all the same.
Nice red t shirt tho🙂 10:00
does anyone know what machinery ill need for this project?
Id go to a public workshop
When are you gonna make another video on this
Neck pockets are very tricky. That was my hardest part on my guitar build
You shouldn't rout the neck pocket until you have a neck, you take measurements from the neck and the relationship between the hight of the bridge you will be using and neck. Same with the cavities, if you haven't made your cavity covers there is no way to know how deed to rout the recess. Just trying to help, hope it comes off that way.
Yes, yes ,yes! I was thinking the same thing. No need to do a body route until the neck is done. That way your neck is your go/no-go gage for the pocket. I will say, the body is fun to make and it’s very tempting to make it before the neck.
Nice!
Please go on with your video’s!
You're lucky it didn't tear out with that pattern bit. You were climb cutting which promotes the router running away from you. Safety first!
I only went back to check a few clips and it seemed like he was not climb cutting. But aside from that, climb cutting does have some utility to actually prevent tear out. Sometimes following the "correct" direction with the router means that your bit is cutting against the grain and that can cause tear out especially near corners. You can climb cut to prevent tear out in these situations. But you do have to go slow and be careful.