I used the steamer method, tint came right off with less pull pressure than it looks like your using and never a sound of the tint tearing from the glass yet my defrosters no longer work. It was fresh tint too 😑
The tint I was removing was old and very brittle. The glue basically turned to cement. I had to really work at it to remove. The defrost still works. If your does not work, it can be repaired. What is done is you find the area(s) that the defrost line has been damaged. Then you buy I think copper paint. You put tape along each side of the line you need to repair, paint the area and then carefully remove the tape to leave a new line. Let it dry and the conductivity will be restored. I wonder if I should damage one of my lines and demonstrate the process. What do you think?
@@drive-chriscapredoni That could be an interesting video. I wasn't criticizing your method either, I'm just shocked my were damaged so easily 🤣 I wasn't aware I could fix it... I might try that. Would be good to offer to customers if I damage theirs 😉
I’ve an 2006 SL & would like to remove the window tint but I really do not want to break the rear demist in so doing… this method looks like it trashed his rear demist? Chris can you confirm?
Some of the defrost lines were damaged but not from the process I used. One of the previous owners installed tint over damaged veins. Not sure why. I removed the old tint, in a safe way, for two reasons. One, to get rid of the old ugly tint and two, to repair the veins. There is a process that can be done, that I will be doing, in the future, that fixes the damaged veins and restores conductivity.
@@drive-chriscapredoni It actually went better than I expected. The windows were all done in about 30-40 minutes, the rear windshield took a lot longer, but I expected that.
Hi John, which section of the process were you struggling with? The two main jobs are to first remove the films using the heat gun to make the film warm and pliable but not melt it. You start in one corner and peel it off and you continually keep the leading edge of the film still stuck to the window warm with the heat gun. If glue is left behind then you use ammonia and/or isopropyl alcohol and a non scratching pad to use friction to remove the glue like you are cleaning a dirty frying pan. I also have another video called "How to Remove Car, SUV and Truck Window Tint Film & Glue Tutorial DIY" Watch this one as well.
If you have something that will remove baked on adhesive, please go ahead. Make sure it does not damage the defroster veins. I am demonstrating removal of very baked-in adhesive and what actually works that also causes no damage.
IPA really is not very effective on window tint glue and a real PITA to do it with tested and reserched lot of stuff and the best by far was intake cleaner, a lot easier to clean with then IPA
@@drive-chriscapredoni pain in the a.. ;o] any alcohol based cleaner will not work well enough, you need some stronger solvents (weak stuff like glue/sticker removals were useless as well) found some video on YT where a guy compares lot of the most recommended cleaners after trying for an hour with a household sticker removal and getting nowhere ruclips.net/video/6sWkHABZDhM/видео.html I've cleaned all side windows already, just the rear left to do, maybe for that one I will try the ammonia cleaner & plastic bag method although the intake/carburetor cleaner works pretty well too
@@drive-chriscapredoni lol, just read it again, it had nothing to do with you ;o]] PITA is common term in english language to describe something very difficult and annoying to do, and cleaning the glue with IPA is like a definition of PITA ;o]]
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great result, i will try this in my 1999 volvo c70 coupe, thanks
windex works really well on tint glue. just spray and wipe and its done
Not in this case. It was so baked on it required a more aggressive approach with the ammonia.
Can you link to your video on how to repair defroster lines?
Yes the lines were damages in one area before I removed the film. In a future video I am going to show how to repair damaged veins.
Yes when the video is made. Thanks
can you please include the footage between applying the solution and removing the old adhesive? That's the only part I really need
I do not have proper footage but what I did was wait for the adhesive to get soft and then I used a scotchbrite pad to scrub it off.
I used the steamer method, tint came right off with less pull pressure than it looks like your using and never a sound of the tint tearing from the glass yet my defrosters no longer work. It was fresh tint too 😑
The tint I was removing was old and very brittle. The glue basically turned to cement. I had to really work at it to remove. The defrost still works. If your does not work, it can be repaired. What is done is you find the area(s) that the defrost line has been damaged. Then you buy I think copper paint. You put tape along each side of the line you need to repair, paint the area and then carefully remove the tape to leave a new line. Let it dry and the conductivity will be restored. I wonder if I should damage one of my lines and demonstrate the process. What do you think?
@@drive-chriscapredoni That could be an interesting video. I wasn't criticizing your method either, I'm just shocked my were damaged so easily 🤣 I wasn't aware I could fix it... I might try that. Would be good to offer to customers if I damage theirs 😉
@@drive-chriscapredoniplease do 😊
I’ve an 2006 SL & would like to remove the window tint but I really do not want to break the rear demist in so doing… this method looks like it trashed his rear demist? Chris can you confirm?
Some of the defrost lines were damaged but not from the process I used. One of the previous owners installed tint over damaged veins. Not sure why. I removed the old tint, in a safe way, for two reasons. One, to get rid of the old ugly tint and two, to repair the veins. There is a process that can be done, that I will be doing, in the future, that fixes the damaged veins and restores conductivity.
What did you do,how
Thanks for the video. Going to attempt this shortly.
If you need advice please let me know. Take your time, this is not a quick job. :)
@@drive-chriscapredoni It actually went better than I expected. The windows were all done in about 30-40 minutes, the rear windshield took a lot longer, but I expected that.
Glad it worked out!
Kinda hard to learn without seeing what your actually doing but thanks anyways
Hi John, which section of the process were you struggling with? The two main jobs are to first remove the films using the heat gun to make the film warm and pliable but not melt it. You start in one corner and peel it off and you continually keep the leading edge of the film still stuck to the window warm with the heat gun. If glue is left behind then you use ammonia and/or isopropyl alcohol and a non scratching pad to use friction to remove the glue like you are cleaning a dirty frying pan. I also have another video called "How to Remove Car, SUV and Truck Window Tint Film & Glue Tutorial DIY" Watch this one as well.
I use heat gun start from the top work slowly job take one hour for four window. Just have to be patient
The real problem is removing dried glue.
Nope. No glue on window either
That was a heat gun you used at first ??
Yes to remove the film layer.
Couldn't you just use goof off or some sort of adhesive remover
If you have something that will remove baked on adhesive, please go ahead. Make sure it does not damage the defroster veins. I am demonstrating removal of very baked-in adhesive and what actually works that also causes no damage.
@drive-chriscapredoni ok , thanks. I'm just thinking bout what can be non toxic
As long as you do it in a ventilated area, like outside or an open garage, you will be fine :)
😂😂😂😂 you can clearly see the paths are ruined. Why do you even post a video that is sooo bad.
The electric defroster veins are still intact and functioning. Sorry you cannot see that.
@drive-chriscapredoni talk about the rear windows that are impossible to removed.
IPA really is not very effective on window tint glue and a real PITA to do it with
tested and reserched lot of stuff and the best by far was intake cleaner, a lot easier to clean with then IPA
Hi, sorry what is PITA? Ammonia should safely remove any glue residue.
@@drive-chriscapredoni pain in the a.. ;o]
any alcohol based cleaner will not work well enough, you need some stronger solvents (weak stuff like glue/sticker removals were useless as well)
found some video on YT where a guy compares lot of the most recommended cleaners after trying for an hour with a household sticker removal and getting nowhere
ruclips.net/video/6sWkHABZDhM/видео.html
I've cleaned all side windows already, just the rear left to do, maybe for that one I will try the ammonia cleaner & plastic bag method
although the intake/carburetor cleaner works pretty well too
Sorry if I have offended you. Never been called a "Pain in the A$$" LOL
@@drive-chriscapredoni lol, just read it again, it had nothing to do with you ;o]]
PITA is common term in english language to describe something very difficult and annoying to do, and cleaning the glue with IPA is like a definition of PITA ;o]]
@@HeadBassVTEC Oh -- Pain in the ###. Now I get it LOL
ACETONE baby
If you use acetone, just be careful as it will destroy paint and window seals.
@@drive-chriscapredoniwill using acetone damage the defroster lines?
@@DJMatikk No, I do not believe it will.