You can get the laptop charger to work . There are 3 coaxial wires in laptop chargers . The outer wire us usually the negative . The middle wire is the 19.5V supply . Then there is a smaller centre wire which is 14.5V . This smaller centre wire with 14.5V is for signalling to the power supply that the battery has reached 14.5V . I have used these laptop chargers on my deep cycle batteries. What you need to do is , after you cut the wires , join the 2 positive wires together ( the 19.5V and the 14.5V wires ) . In that case the power supply still get a feed back , and will not cut off until the battery has reached 14.5V.
I ran into the same issue! But after reading the comments I tried to limit the amps on my MPPT to 10A (my laptop charger produce 10A) and it works like a charm! Thank you everyone for saving my campervan batteries here in Mexico. I couldn't find any charger anywhere. I also added a 3 position switch to choose from solar to shore power with more convenience.
Aren't you using 10A or 15A charge controllers? If so, they're going to try and draw that up to that current. A 65 W laptop power supplies can only provide around ~3.2A at 20V and they all have over-current protection. They will shut down if you try to draw more than the rated current. I think you need a power supply that can either limit the current or can handle the max current of the charge controller.
I have done this. I used a victron 75/10 mttp controller. The problem is the controller is trying to draw the max current it can. I set the victron controller to only draw 3 amps from a 19v 3.85amp laptop power supply
I have the same issue when trying to use laptop chargers to run a PWM DC controller to run garden model railways. In experimenting I have found that using "Switching" power supplies, like the ones you're using, the power supply fails after a few seconds, BUT if you use NON-Switching or Transformer type power supplies it will work.
Thank you for trying for us. I have never tried laptop power supply but I have two switching power supplies that work very well with my Renogy 30A MPPT. One is a DROK 10A 0v-48V adjustable and the other is 30A 15V (slightly adjustable) from aliexpress.
I also have a DROK 24v 20a I'm wanting to use but it's only voltage adjustable. Do you need the current adjustable version? Or do these DROKs simply only give their max amperage? Worried about a charge controller trying to pull higher than 20a. Or if I get a 20a controller, will it simply only ever try to draw 20a max?
I just wanted to try with what I had and with some of the ideas other commenter had given me. It is now apparent that regulating the amp output is needed for this to work. Thanks for the comment 👍
A lithium battery can draw enough current to destroy even an automotive alternator. The key is using a current limiting setting on the charger. Solar cells are self-limiting. The only thing I could find with that configurable parameter is Victron's *Buck-Boost DC-DC Converter 25A / 50A / 100A* Of course, the reason to re-purpose the Power bricks is to save money. Unfortunately, you will need a DC power supply with about 120% of the rated maximum output of your solar charger.
Before I had a car battery charger, I remember using a laptop charger to charge my 12V car battery once. I had to use a couple of old turn signal/brake light bulbs to reduce the 18/19 V from the charger and it worked.
As others had said, the SCC is drawing higher current than the laptop power supply can handle. Does Renogy SCC have adjustable charging current? If it does then set it to the lowest setting first and then slowly adjust it up while monitoring the current draw from the Laptop power supply to make sure it is not exceeding the power supply current handling spec.
You need between 10 and 20 amps @ 24 volts or 14.5 volts to work the mppt controller. laptop chargers can only supply 19volts 3.5amps the charge controller needs 10 amps or more to recognise there is power to receive before it will charge the battery and turn night mode off.
I have to tell you, I am impressed that you stuck with it. I was wondering myself. The only thing I can think of is that there may be some type of "sensing" circuitry involved - on both ends. What I mean is, I do not think the charge controller sends the voltage and current through until it senses it for like 2 seconds. Likewise, I suspect that the laptop charger does not send the current until it senses a load. Maybe putting a small resistor or lamp in series between power supply and charge controller. If you don't want to spend any more time on it, I understand. I may try it myself. I have several old laptop power supplies laying around. And this should work with just the one 19vdc charger, which is essentially similar voltage of a 100W panel. I have used old laptop chargers in the past to power a 1/32 scale slot car layout and that worked, but it was several years ago and the circuitry may have changed. Some new generic/Chinese chargers will not work on some Dell laptops. I don't know what it is checking for when you plug them in, but it is checking for something. Liked and subscribed.
I have had mixed results. Even sticking to power supplies without the signalling wire it seems hit or miss. Using a Renogy Wanderer 10A, a small 8A LiFePO4 and various 65W power supplies I had in a box I was able to get one working quite reliably, one that usually works and two that simply didn't work. As the charge controller pulls current from the laptop charger the supply voltage drops. And if it drops below the battery voltage then the charge controller stops pulling current. If you can configure your charge controller to limit the current draw then using for charging should work. If I can find a 150W PS I'll try that for comparison.
Don't give up just yet. Try using a cheap boost converter to modify the voltage and current between the power supply and mppt. Im actually about to test this myself but with a dc power supply into a boost converter to step up the voltage and limit the current which should trick the mppt into thinking it's a solar panel. The mppt seems to be trying to draw more current than the laptop supply can handle. Im pretty sure the boost converter will solve this.
@@OffGridBasement Just a cheap 400w ebay$5-10 boost converter should work with an mppt as it's current limiting. I'll know soon I just purchased one to try with a 12v 10A bench power supply. Can adjust PSU up to 14v, boost that up to 18v through the boost converter which will lose a little current in the conversion but since it's current limiting the mppt won't try and over draw the power from the supply. I'm certain it will work with a bench supply and it even works in vehicle as good as a dcdc charger. You can mimic a 100w panel output through a cig socket. for $5 invested it would be worth a try.
For proof of concept, use a smaller battery. 12v 7Ah lead acid. How many watts on each power supply? Divide that by the 19v, how many amps can they produce?
@@OffGridBasement So about 3A each. This might be the problem. The battery is just pulling too much, and the charge controllers are trying to provide that. The PSUs are probably shutting down with over current protection. A smaller battery that pulls less, or a SCC which has a configurable current limit would probably be key to making this setup work, or a PSU (maybe a bench top supply) which has a constant current mode. Basically current limiting...
It occurred to me that we will be having some downtime with the weather because of the raining season. That means cloudy days and heavy rains means lot of light out so then I came across ur video.
A laptop power supply is not a battery charger. A charger will allow a voltage drop to maintain output current. In this case, the power supplies are connected to a battery with a very low internal resistance. So, the power supplies see this as a short as they can't keep the voltage regulated. See my comments in part 1. A PWM switches input power on and off to maintain voltage up to the maximum current rating. So, the power supply is directly connected to the battery when charging.
Thank you for the information and for the comment. I've come to realize the computer power supplies are faulting b/c of overload protection. Thanks again!
Lead acid would work with just one power brick. Its the bms of that battery blocking it i would expect from my own experience. You would have to rig up a whole system to get that setup to work otherwise.
I commend you for your efforts... being following your vids for a bit now, I have thought about a hack like that too.. I wonder if anybody has tried a power supply from a desktop computer? I have thought about trying that myself. I have plenty of old towers laying around with good power supply's. If I remember .... depending on the wattage and the wiring some can do 24V dc @ 5 amps
I believe I have watched a couple videos with people rewiring desktop power supplies. I have a couple also. I should try it out. Thanks for the comment!
I just did mine and it works but what freaks me out is that the rating keeps fluctuating from 14v to 19v and the battery keeps increasing and decreasing but after I disconnect it, the battery comes down to somewhere around 12.8or above.
I think there is a difference between a "switching power supply" and a "transformer power supply"... Maybe the switching is not seen by your controller. My victron needs to see 5 volts over the battery voltage to turn on.
The community thinks it's most likely that the CC is trying to pull too many amps from the Power Supplies thus causing a overload condition in the supplies. Thanks for the info!
@@OffGridBasement ı hear that these charger controllers gives back 3v back especially mppts. You can check voltage input with just connect battery. And ı think these laptop supplies close it self. Ypu can try with some computer supplies or kind of lab supplies.
I have the same charge controller and I use a Drok power supply, and set it to 32 volts and charge the lifepo4 battery normal without issues, so get a Drok power supply is cheap
Laptop charger produces dc but it doesn't regulate current, it allows current up to its max and then shuts down. Some dc to dc converters allow you to control both the voltage output (which can be useful but not really a big deal here) and the amperage output which will allow you to feed the controller without shutting down the laptop charger. It lets you throttle the output of the power brick.
You could use a step down buck converter power supply with a voltage knob and set the voltage to 14.6v. Give me a shout out if this works. Unfortunately on my channel I'm going to be working 50-70hrs a week for the next few months. I'll get videos out when I can 😭 I can email you a link if you need
THIS IS THE ISSUE ! In my situation the switched power supply produced "noise" that bugged the controller out. Everything works perfect with my bench supply. Sorry if my post is redundant, my lawn is demanding that i cut it !.. try to filter the DC with capacitors..
Others are saying that the CC is trying to pull too many amps and the power supplies are going into overload protection. What do you think about that? Thanks for the info and comment
@@OffGridBasement I suppose if their was some kind of protection as such build into the "wall wart", but usually those are built into the BMS. In my situation I tried a 19 volt computer power supply on a renagy 10 Amp charger with a 6ah lifpo4 battery. I used the cheep bt-1 Bluetooth meter to obtain charge data. I wasted several days as the charger would at max do .6 ma at the batteries current voltage. After trying several more PS I ordered another, this time a renagy 30li. Same results. I believe the issue is noise is goofing out the pulse wave signal of the charger. If you hook the solar input to a clean DC source it should work. I can't see any difference from a solar panel pushing 5 amps vs a clean DC PS ( other than stability ). I would think that the controller would function properly even if the battery has a large amperage draw. I will hook up my computer charger to my oscilloscope and see what noise is there. I will get back to you.
im thinking how bout a car voltage regulator? or you could just buy a Voltage Regulator DC-DC Voltage Stabilizer 30A Power Supply Adjustable 12v-24V or make you own must be hundreds of youtube videos on how to make a 12 volt regulator
Great experiment. I was curious as well after watching freely roaming in this video ruclips.net/video/DBIPCYvrVv4/видео.html . I think the issue is that the cheap low end charge controllers don’t have current limiting capabilities. I tested this with a Victron smart mppt 100/20 and changed charged current to a low current of 1 amp. Then slowly raised the amps while watching the laptop power supply making sure to not exceed its current output. I was able to get it work but if you want a lot of amps you would need to parallel or series the laptop power supplies as you have done. I like these videos. Thanks
Use a different power supply… The laptop power supplies are too “smart”. Find an old brick power supply from the Salvation Army and mess with them. I’ve had success with old Xbox power supplies and other random out dated devices that came with power supplies. You’d be surprised how much current some older devices needed 😛
Yeah lots have people have success doing it on youtube.. Strange why your having no luck... 1 guy steped down the voltage from 19 to 12v... My PowMR is.Back from DEAD..Maybe just those stupid screw wire terminals or a loose wire.. They need a redesign with nice cables and leads with products. XT 60 sockets and MC4 connectors....
That is great news about the PowMr! Everyone is saying the charge controller is pulling too many amps and the power supplies are going into overload protection. That makes sense. Thanks for the comment!
I would help everyone, if these Chinesium solar charge controllers, came with actual operating and wiring instructions! Versus a bad chinenglish instruction pamphlet!
You can get the laptop charger to work . There are 3 coaxial wires in laptop chargers . The outer wire us usually the negative . The middle wire is the 19.5V supply . Then there is a smaller centre wire which is 14.5V . This smaller centre wire with 14.5V is for signalling to the power supply that the battery has reached 14.5V .
I have used these laptop chargers on my deep cycle batteries.
What you need to do is , after you cut the wires , join the 2 positive wires together ( the 19.5V and the 14.5V wires ) . In that case the power supply still get a feed back , and will not cut off until the battery has reached 14.5V.
Thanks for the info. I'll check it out soon!
I ran into the same issue! But after reading the comments I tried to limit the amps on my MPPT to 10A (my laptop charger produce 10A) and it works like a charm! Thank you everyone for saving my campervan batteries here in Mexico. I couldn't find any charger anywhere. I also added a 3 position switch to choose from solar to shore power with more convenience.
Thanks for sharing!
Aren't you using 10A or 15A charge controllers? If so, they're going to try and draw that up to that current. A 65 W laptop power supplies can only provide around ~3.2A at 20V and they all have over-current protection. They will shut down if you try to draw more than the rated current.
I think you need a power supply that can either limit the current or can handle the max current of the charge controller.
Thanks for the info. I believe you are correct based on the other comments.
I have done this. I used a victron 75/10 mttp controller. The problem is the controller is trying to draw the max current it can. I set the victron controller to only draw 3 amps from a 19v 3.85amp laptop power supply
I think this is correct. If you set the charge controller to draw 3 amps max, then you won't exceed the amp limit on the power supply.
Makes sense. Thanks for the comment.
Good thought on the initial comment
This worked for me! I was in the same situation and set the limit close to the max amperage for the supply and it started working. Thank you!!!!
I love the experimentation!
Thanks!
I have the same issue when trying to use laptop chargers to run a PWM DC controller to run garden model railways.
In experimenting I have found that using "Switching" power supplies, like the ones you're using, the power supply fails after a few seconds, BUT if you use NON-Switching or Transformer type power supplies it will work.
Thanks for the info and the comment!
Thank you for trying for us. I have never tried laptop power supply but I have two switching power supplies that work very well with my Renogy 30A MPPT. One is a DROK 10A 0v-48V adjustable and the other is 30A 15V (slightly adjustable) from aliexpress.
I'll keep that in mind. Thanks for the comment!
I also have a DROK 24v 20a I'm wanting to use but it's only voltage adjustable. Do you need the current adjustable version? Or do these DROKs simply only give their max amperage? Worried about a charge controller trying to pull higher than 20a. Or if I get a 20a controller, will it simply only ever try to draw 20a max?
Question: why dont you try with a regulated power suply? maybe a 10 or a 20 amps power suply like the ones we use in amateur radio
also the charge controler must be a 10 or 20 amps pwm
I just wanted to try with what I had and with some of the ideas other commenter had given me. It is now apparent that regulating the amp output is needed for this to work. Thanks for the comment 👍
A lithium battery can draw enough current to destroy even an automotive alternator.
The key is using a current limiting setting on the charger.
Solar cells are self-limiting.
The only thing I could find with that configurable parameter is Victron's *Buck-Boost DC-DC Converter 25A / 50A / 100A*
Of course, the reason to re-purpose the Power bricks is to save money.
Unfortunately, you will need a DC power supply with about 120% of the rated maximum output of your solar charger.
Thanks for the comment and the info 👍
Before I had a car battery charger, I remember using a laptop charger to charge my 12V car battery once. I had to use a couple of old turn signal/brake light bulbs to reduce the 18/19 V from the charger and it worked.
That is pretty creative. I can't believe it worked!
As others had said, the SCC is drawing higher current than the laptop power supply can handle. Does Renogy SCC have adjustable charging current? If it does then set it to the lowest setting first and then slowly adjust it up while monitoring the current draw from the Laptop power supply to make sure it is not exceeding the power supply current handling spec.
The renogy rover doesn't have adjustable charging control. The only small CC with this capability I know of is Victron.
Cool, I see you have a shop smith ... my dad had one when I grew up ... 50/60s
Yes. I got it from my grandpa. It still works like a champ! Thanks for the comment.
Thank you for trying.. you’re a hero 🥲
Haha! Thanks.
Can you adjust the current on the charge controllers? Maybe turn down the amps ?
No. I could with my victron, but not Renogy or the super cheap one. Thanks for the question.
You need between 10 and 20 amps @ 24 volts or 14.5 volts to work the mppt controller. laptop chargers can only supply 19volts 3.5amps the charge controller needs 10 amps or more to recognise there is power to receive before it will charge the battery and turn night mode off.
Thanks for the info and the comment.
I'm guessing that the PWM charge controller was an MPPT. Certain Chinese CCs are that way.
I would be surprised because it was super cheap. Anything can happen though!
Thanks for your experiment. I learned alot from you.
J
Thanks for watching!
I have to tell you, I am impressed that you stuck with it. I was wondering myself. The only thing I can think of is that there may be some type of "sensing" circuitry involved - on both ends. What I mean is, I do not think the charge controller sends the voltage and current through until it senses it for like 2 seconds. Likewise, I suspect that the laptop charger does not send the current until it senses a load. Maybe putting a small resistor or lamp in series between power supply and charge controller. If you don't want to spend any more time on it, I understand. I may try it myself. I have several old laptop power supplies laying around. And this should work with just the one 19vdc charger, which is essentially similar voltage of a 100W panel. I have used old laptop chargers in the past to power a 1/32 scale slot car layout and that worked, but it was several years ago and the circuitry may have changed. Some new generic/Chinese chargers will not work on some Dell laptops. I don't know what it is checking for when you plug them in, but it is checking for something. Liked and subscribed.
Thank you. I don't know if I will try something else but thanks for the information!
I think your voltage is good, you just need more & constant amps, to kick on the charge controller!
Don't give up!
You're right. I believe I need some sort of regulator to keep the amps consistent. Thanks for the comment.
I have had mixed results. Even sticking to power supplies without the signalling wire it seems hit or miss.
Using a Renogy Wanderer 10A, a small 8A LiFePO4 and various 65W power supplies I had in a box I was able to get one working quite reliably, one that usually works and two that simply didn't work.
As the charge controller pulls current from the laptop charger the supply voltage drops. And if it drops below the battery voltage then the charge controller stops pulling current.
If you can configure your charge controller to limit the current draw then using for charging should work.
If I can find a 150W PS I'll try that for comparison.
Thank you for all the great information and for the comment.
I Use Stepdown dc to dc with current adjustable between laptop charger and scc. And it's work
I believe that is the only way. Thank you for the comment!
Don't give up just yet. Try using a cheap boost converter to modify the voltage and current between the power supply and mppt. Im actually about to test this myself but with a dc power supply into a boost converter to step up the voltage and limit the current which should trick the mppt into thinking it's a solar panel. The mppt seems to be trying to draw more current than the laptop supply can handle. Im pretty sure the boost converter will solve this.
Do you think a 24v to 48v boost converter? I think the power supply would burn up a 12v converter. Thanks for the comment.
@@OffGridBasement Just a cheap 400w ebay$5-10 boost converter should work with an mppt as it's current limiting. I'll know soon I just purchased one to try with a 12v 10A bench power supply. Can adjust PSU up to 14v, boost that up to 18v through the boost converter which will lose a little current in the conversion but since it's current limiting the mppt won't try and over draw the power from the supply. I'm certain it will work with a bench supply and it even works in vehicle as good as a dcdc charger. You can mimic a 100w panel output through a cig socket. for $5 invested it would be worth a try.
For proof of concept, use a smaller battery. 12v 7Ah lead acid.
How many watts on each power supply? Divide that by the 19v, how many amps can they produce?
I believe each power supply is around 65w.
@@OffGridBasement So about 3A each. This might be the problem. The battery is just pulling too much, and the charge controllers are trying to provide that. The PSUs are probably shutting down with over current protection. A smaller battery that pulls less, or a SCC which has a configurable current limit would probably be key to making this setup work, or a PSU (maybe a bench top supply) which has a constant current mode. Basically current limiting...
It occurred to me that we will be having some downtime with the weather because of the raining season. That means cloudy days and heavy rains means lot of light out so then I came across ur video.
I'm glad you found my channel. Thanks for the comment.
Can you limit the battery charge in mppt? Laptop chargers have protection, if you could limit the charging from mppt to 4A I think it will work.
I can limit the charge with a victron, but not with this one. Thanks for the comment.
Dc to dc Back bust converter may help
Thanks for the info and the comment.
A laptop power supply is not a battery charger. A charger will allow a voltage drop to maintain output current. In this case, the power supplies are connected to a battery with a very low internal resistance. So, the power supplies see this as a short as they can't keep the voltage regulated. See my comments in part 1.
A PWM switches input power on and off to maintain voltage up to the maximum current rating. So, the power supply is directly connected to the battery when charging.
Thanks again for the info!
What about if you put a diode in between the charger and the controller
I believe that would just block the DC current altogether. Unless you have some other way of wiring it. Thanks for the comment.
I just tried it with a 20volt using a pwm and trust me it did work
You have to limit ouutput from your charge controller.
Or paralell more chargers to mach your output amps.
Thank you for the information and for the comment. I've come to realize the computer power supplies are faulting b/c of overload protection. Thanks again!
Lead acid would work with just one power brick. Its the bms of that battery blocking it i would expect from my own experience. You would have to rig up a whole system to get that setup to work otherwise.
I'm definitely not going that far! Thanks for the info and the comment.
I commend you for your efforts... being following your vids for a bit now, I have thought about a hack like that too.. I wonder if anybody has tried a power supply from a desktop computer? I have thought about trying that myself. I have plenty of old towers laying around with good power supply's. If I remember .... depending on the wattage and the wiring some can do 24V dc @ 5 amps
I believe I have watched a couple videos with people rewiring desktop power supplies. I have a couple also. I should try it out. Thanks for the comment!
I just did mine and it works but what freaks me out is that the rating keeps fluctuating from 14v to 19v and the battery keeps increasing and decreasing but after I disconnect it, the battery comes down to somewhere around 12.8or above.
Weird. At least you got yours to work!
Hi, is there are updates ? )))
Unfortunately no. I believe the solution is having a charge controller that can limit the input power. No sure though since I wasn't able to test it.
I think there is a difference between a "switching power supply" and a "transformer power supply"... Maybe the switching is not seen by your controller. My victron needs to see 5 volts over the battery voltage to turn on.
The community thinks it's most likely that the CC is trying to pull too many amps from the Power Supplies thus causing a overload condition in the supplies. Thanks for the info!
I tried mppt and pwn chargers to charge battery with power supply. pwm is working but mppt is not working. maybe ps close itself.
There was nothing I could do to make it work. The power supply was always shutting down from over amperage.
@@OffGridBasement ı hear that these charger controllers gives back 3v back especially mppts. You can check voltage input with just connect battery. And ı think these laptop supplies close it self. Ypu can try with some computer supplies or kind of lab supplies.
I have the same charge controller and I use a Drok power supply, and set it to 32 volts and charge the lifepo4 battery normal without issues, so get a Drok power supply is cheap
I do need a variable power supply. Drok is probably the way to go. Thanks for the comment and info!
Connect the PSU to a DC-DC Converter it'll work. I've been using it for months now
Thanks for the info.
@@OffGridBasement Pls let me know if it works with you.
@@owoeyejames5583 what does the dc-dc converter do? doesnt the laptop charger already produce dc?
Laptop charger produces dc but it doesn't regulate current, it allows current up to its max and then shuts down. Some dc to dc converters allow you to control both the voltage output (which can be useful but not really a big deal here) and the amperage output which will allow you to feed the controller without shutting down the laptop charger. It lets you throttle the output of the power brick.
Use a car bulb , car bulb absorbe some current❤
Good idea. Thanks for the comment and the info.
You can’t just give up sir 😢u got to try more till it works
I might give another shot, just not sure when. Thanks for the comment.
You could use a step down buck converter power supply with a voltage knob and set the voltage to 14.6v. Give me a shout out if this works.
Unfortunately on my channel I'm going to be working 50-70hrs a week for the next few months. I'll get videos out when I can 😭 I can email you a link if you need
I've definitely looked at them. If I were to go any further with this I would purchase one. Hope you are able to get videos out sooner than you think!
THIS IS THE ISSUE ! In my situation the switched power supply produced "noise" that bugged the controller out. Everything works perfect with my bench supply. Sorry if my post is redundant, my lawn is demanding that i cut it !.. try to filter the DC with capacitors..
Others are saying that the CC is trying to pull too many amps and the power supplies are going into overload protection. What do you think about that? Thanks for the info and comment
@@OffGridBasement I suppose if their was some kind of protection as such build into the "wall wart", but usually those are built into the BMS. In my situation I tried a 19 volt computer power supply on a renagy 10 Amp charger with a 6ah lifpo4 battery. I used the cheep bt-1 Bluetooth meter to obtain charge data. I wasted several days as the charger would at max do .6 ma at the batteries current voltage. After trying several more PS I ordered another, this time a renagy 30li. Same results. I believe the issue is noise is goofing out the pulse wave signal of the charger. If you hook the solar input to a clean DC source it should work. I can't see any difference from a solar panel pushing 5 amps vs a clean DC PS ( other than stability ). I would think that the controller would function properly even if the battery has a large amperage draw. I will hook up my computer charger to my oscilloscope and see what noise is there. I will get back to you.
im thinking how bout a car voltage regulator? or you could just buy a Voltage Regulator DC-DC Voltage Stabilizer 30A Power Supply Adjustable 12v-24V or make you own must be hundreds of youtube videos on how to make a 12 volt regulator
That is true. Then I wouldn't even need the power supplies! I'm done with those damn things!
@@OffGridBasement i have to give you props for coming up with the whole idea working or not.
@@mannyfragoza9652 Thanks. Wish the video could've had a happier ending...
Great experiment. I was curious as well after watching freely roaming in this video ruclips.net/video/DBIPCYvrVv4/видео.html . I think the issue is that the cheap low end charge controllers don’t have current limiting capabilities. I tested this with a Victron smart mppt 100/20 and changed charged current to a low current of 1 amp. Then slowly raised the amps while watching the laptop power supply making sure to not exceed its current output. I was able to get it work but if you want a lot of amps you would need to parallel or series the laptop power supplies as you have done. I like these videos. Thanks
I'm glad you like them. Thanks for the comment and the info 👍
As much a good batteries cost it doesn’t make sense not to use the charger made for them. Have fun stay safe.
This is very true. I really just wanted to see if it were possible. Thanks for the comment 👍
Maybe you shouldn't use a laptop power supply. Try using a less smart DC supply adapter. Something that doesn't protect itself so much.
I've totally given up on that. You're right. The power supply is indeed smarter than I am! Thanks for the comment.
It would avoid the smart shutdown of the laptop power brick..... but then you would just burn it out instead.
Use a different power supply… The laptop power supplies are too “smart”. Find an old brick power supply from the Salvation Army and mess with them. I’ve had success with old Xbox power supplies and other random out dated devices that came with power supplies. You’d be surprised how much current some older devices needed 😛
I never thought about using a game console plug. That's a good idea. Thanks for the comment.
The pwm charge controller would have worked in parallel
It probably would.... ☹️.. thanks for the comment!
Oh those are all the ones i use.lol
Lol!
if u have charge controller of lowest Amps, maybe it can
Actually you need a charge controller that can lower the amp draw. I think only Victron does that. Thanks for the comment.
Yeah lots have people have success doing it on youtube.. Strange why your having no luck... 1 guy steped down the voltage from 19 to 12v... My PowMR is.Back from DEAD..Maybe just those stupid screw wire terminals or a loose wire.. They need a redesign with nice cables and leads with products. XT 60 sockets and MC4 connectors....
That is great news about the PowMr! Everyone is saying the charge controller is pulling too many amps and the power supplies are going into overload protection. That makes sense. Thanks for the comment!
I would help everyone, if these Chinesium solar charge controllers, came with actual operating and wiring instructions! Versus a bad chinenglish instruction pamphlet!
Sometimes I wonder if they just use a free translator tool to get the job done. Thanks for the comment.
It’s charging my battery
It will not work, except you modify the laptop charger
Either that or use some sort of DC regulator. Thanks for the comment.