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Avoiding Wavey Cuts Proper Blade Guide Adjustment
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- Опубликовано: 26 фев 2024
- Proper blade guide adjustment is crucial for a straight cut. if your blade is not cutting straight it's usually 1 of 3 things
1 dull blade / Not tensioned correctly.
2 proper blade guide adjustment
3 blade not level with the spine of the bed
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Jerry
My accounts where I share my wood projects.
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Awesome job on this video iam going to do this next step next iam almost there 😀
Good deal. Glad it helps
Good video. Never seize, HMMMMMMM. Seems my 3 grandsons must have gotten some of that on their jaw joints. They never, and I mean never, stop talking. ☺
Haha that happens lol. It gets everywhere too. Doesn't matter how hard you try to stay clean.
Getting ready to order this exact mill never had one before, and love watching your videos they are awesome.
Great to hear. Once you get it dialed in you will love it. Can't wait to hear your experience. Tell Frontier about our awesome frontier channel lol. Thanks for watching
It's always amazing how different your Frontier is from my Norwood! There really is nothing the same, and you can tell they were designed by totally different designers on opposite ends of the globe. I read in the comments about snagging your foot, and i feel your pain!!! Hopefully a couple of Aleve's and you'll feel a lot better tomorrow, and in a couple more days getting rid of the staples will make you feel even better!!!
I've seen the Norwoods as well. Everything is different like you said. You would think that it would be too much of an engineering project to have 2 completely different lines. I wonder what percentage of sales and more importantly profits the Frontier line brings in. It's a different business model for sure.
Monday I was walking and snagged my foot on a viney stick under the grass. My foot didn't come when my body expected it. I didn't fall I had my cane. Damn did that hurt. It was pretty sore yesterday during my walks but today it feels great. PT this morning. I'm looking forward to it. Thanks Tim for watching and taking the time to comment.
Morning Jerry , very good tutorial on the mill . Hope you are continuing to get better everyday !!
Thank you Del. I'm a bit sore today. I had a little stumble (didn't fall, snagged a stick with my foot while walking) yesterday but I was able to get 1.3 miles walking today. Getting stronger. I'll just have to work around this little set back. Over all I'm feeling great. Thanks for checking in on me. I truly appreciate it.
I’m glad you didn’t fall , how does it feel without the staples . Glad you are doing so great with the replacement .
@@inthebackyardwithdel438 I still have my staples. They come out Friday.
Great video Jerry. Thanks for the instructional video on the blade guide. Not much out there on the Frontier mills
Thanks. If the blade is sharp that's the next thing to check, right? Glad you enjoyed it.
@@BigelowWoodcraft Right‼️
Thanks for the video. I have os23 I think it has the same guide system
It does have the same system. Glad it could be of help. Have a great weekend
Hey Jerry, that last shot of the blade guide assembly looked to me like it was a bit tilted. That could be the cause of the uneven wear of the ceramic guide. Thanks for the video, umm, have a good day! I uh, hope the knee is doing well! 😀
I actually had someone else say the same thing to me in another video and forgot to check it. I need to check that out. Thanks for pointing that out. That's probably why they wore out.
I'm feeling pretty good. Just got home from PT. Thank you for the support
Great tutorial, Gerry. Have you ever considered changing to roller guides?
I have. It would take some minor fabrication. I'm not sure if it would be worth it with this mill. The blade guides are effective and simple.
Great video Jerry. Have you considered changing out the ceramic guides for roller bearings?
Looking at the OS you would need to modify the carrier. I haven't gotten around to doing mine yet, but a mate has same model (GT26 Hardwood Mills) and highly recommends it.
Hope the knee is recovering well.
I have thought about it and it would take a bit of fabricating. I'm not sure if it would be worth it. I've never run a mill with those types of roller guides. I couldn't decide until I actually had experience. Sorry about the long twisted answer. I think the guides are fine.
Good info jerry! Have you changed your valve on the water tank my is leaking. Got to change mine out.
Yes I did. I did that probably after a couple months. When I get out there soon I'll show it.
Hey Jerry, me again. You mentioned if we had any problems or questions...
I've got the same mill and was wondering if you ever had issues with the throttle. I know you have your fancy setup, but I'm having issues with the engine staying running almost like the idle is too low? Do you know of an easy way to adjust that?
I had the exact issue you described. It would idle down and stall. I played with the idle but couldn't quite get it where it needed to be. I just took a piece of plastic and screwed it into the plastic below the throttle lever to stop it from going all the way home. As for the cable and linkage on the Briggs it too sucks. I stripped out the screw and eventually put a better fastener in the linkage the throttle cable connects to. And the cable would still pull loose.
Jerry, I hope you are recovering well. Maybe you have spoke of this and I missed it, but I wondered if you use washer fluid for blade lube/coolant in the winter. Also, watching numerous sawmilling videos and some guys run a steady stream of lube while others simply have a n occasional drip. Since you mill various types of wood, what's your thoughts and procedure on blade lube/cooling?
I'm feeling good. PT this morning and looking forward to it.
Regarding coolant/lubricant or whatever we call it. I do use either windshield fluid or pink rv antifreeze. Over the years I've had different thoughts. Originally I poured the coolant to it. I felt keeping the blade cool was important. However it makes a mess with the sawdust. The blade gullets don't seem to clean out the wet sawdust as well and you get belt slippage. I was running blades too long and they should have been changed out. Dull blades get really hot. The band must need more water to stay cool was my thinking. Instead I should have changed the blade.
Now I'm moving away from the steady flow and have been using the drip method. If I see pitch build up I turn it up a bit on a cut to clean off the pitch then try and find a slower drip that will keep the pitch off. The pitch gets on your band then it really starts getting hot. The sawdust is almost all gone between the boards when I get the drip slow enough but still keeps the pitch off the blade. My belt doesn't slip so I get a nice straight first 12 inches. I hope this makes sense what I'm saying.
Great question.
Thanks Jerry. My finding pretty much parallels yours. I milled 700bd.ft. of walnut the other day and had quite the time preventing waves. I put the water to it and didn't help, shut the water off and had tremendous blade buildup. Finally I discovered my tensioning wasn't right and things straighten out. So many things to work with and keep aligned. I learning by my mistakes I guess. Glad to hear your doing okay.
@@BigelowWoodcraft