Thanks! I wouldn't quite say quantum leap, but it's at least a lot of incremental changes to an existing proven motor model in order to have it run at the full potential. We hope to stimulates the industry at large to explore the clutchless geared motor route, and integrated inside-the-dropout torque arms.
@@shadowdance4666 ebikes.ca has a list of dealers. Hilleater is one bike I know of. I'd love this motor on a FS hilleater.ca/52v-hilleater-galiano-phaserunner-se/
What’s the best ebike motor setup for my Dahon Speed Uno folding bike with 75mm front and 120mm rear spacings? I really like the torque integrated into the hub. Thank you.
Great product Justin, I got one of the very first BMC/MAC geared motors way back in the day 14 years ago and its still working as I use it for my daily commuter bike, its done 40,000 miles, at power levels over 2kw the internal clutches in the motors struggled over time, I found the sweet spot was about 1.6kw so 50V 35 Amps max would mean you would get a decent clutch life, also soft starting acceleration and reasonable throttle use helps, never needed torque arms over that time as the axle sat in a steel frame with thick dropouts. This looks like a wonderful adaptation, the removal of the clutch removes the weak spot of the original geared motors, combined with the injection of power from the phaserunner will make this a powerful and reliable system, I also love the fact that the power wires comes out of the side. Blown away by how well you have made your business grow and really pleased to see my friends from way back in early 2000s that were on the scene back then have made successful businesses and am surprised that it took the normal bike industry so long to cotton on to how amazing ebikes are. Best Wishes Knoxie
I just told someone the other day that geared motors can't do regen, now I have the slightest bit of egg on my face :) You guys really did your homework on this one! This could well be the perfect hub motor!
i bought a direct drive a few months back simply because i like the idea of charging while riding, i ended up finding this video shortly after putting everything on my bike but by then it was too late cause i already spent 700$, if you think your timing is bad don't worry mine was worse lol
I want to feel it. I got the direct drive 1500 W hub heavy. What do I need to do? Do you have what I need to regenerative break? point in the right direction I have another bike. I want to convert now. I'm not sure what kind of motor to go with. I was gonna go with a mid drive. Maybe I want a geared hub motor have no idea. Learn more before I make a decision on my second bike.. Am I gonna need a new motor controller? I don't have a screen. I just have a throttle with a little led battery capacity readout. Got A52 tooth chain ring, so I won't spin out when I'm in. Full throttle, it's like I'm stuck on full throttle. I just go full throttle everywhere I go. LOL less I have to ride slower for whatever reason. I remember I was racing mountain bikes. When rock shock made the first front fork Shock.. You'd have told me there'll be wireless derailers. And electric motors on bicycles. I'd have been like yeah, right?
Sounds like you could start with a good couple afternoons of reading! ebikes.ca/getting-started/ebikes-parts-explained.html ebikes.ca/getting-started/hub-motor-options.html ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/baserunner.html In general the GMAC motor has a higher share of mechanical issues due to the internal complexity of the geared hub design and MAC motor's overall QC, so we tend to steer people towards the V3 All-Axle hub motor which is only a couple hundred grams heavier with all the benefits of DD: ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/all-axle-hub-motor.html
Hey bravo and thanks for sharing this. 12.7 wh/mi at 25 mph is some pretty good usage stats for a 200lb rider! My consumption is more like 20 wh/mi, but I ride a cargo bike with low pressure tires and often carrying my wife or child on the back seat. But the best bit is # times I've adjusted the brake pads? = 0. Love regen!
Before i decide to spend my money - any real world numbers behind that "20W" power consumption for electronic freewheel? Any tests? How it affect battery usage IN REAL CONDITIONS? Please tell us. BTW where to buy gmac motor in Europe?
The GMAC should be available at ebike-solutions in germany in early 2020: www.ebike-solutions.com/ In real world riding conditions the energy used by electronic freewheeling is almost always less than you get back from the regenerative braking. Nothing has changed in the fundamentals since I wrote this short thesis here: endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7891#p119214 Notice that all of that was based on actual logged ride data.
Nope, that requires a dedicated fat bike hub motor. You can't space out the freehub body on one side and the disk rotor mount and splines torque arm on the other side and somehow turn a 135mm OLD into a 190mm. We have the G62 hub for that, which can be ordered with a welded clutch if you want regen
Any sneak peeks for the front hub geared motor with regen enabled that's coming soon? Which motor will it be based on and would it fit standard fork spacings? Also are there any plans to make proportional braking signal levers/tripwires yet?
Ha we've had the motors ready for this for over 3 months but are still finalizing the torque arm details which proved trickier than expected. Both the eZee and Shengyi SX1 will be available with regen options once we are ready.
@@GrinTechnologies is the front hub GMAC no longer on the roadmap? also would it be possible to get the regen-modded shengyi motors now before the torque arms are ready? curious about the tricky details o.o
Are there any motors with a feature set like this for the front hub? And maybe a bit smaller and cheaper. I kinda want to add a motor to my commuting bike (that I sometimes use for grocery store trips with rear rack baskets) without changing out too much parts, and I want the regen braking feature and also the smaller size of a geared motor. The splined torque arm also seems nice to have.
I think we'll have something soon for a front hub that's cheaper than the GMAC, though it won't have an integrated torque arm. Stay tuned in the coming months.
Justin hello, i realy like the upgrades, they make a lot of sense. For me a must have is the 10mm axel (mine is a 14 and i can't seam to seat the caliper with the rotor) , super important is the 11 speed freehub cassete (mine is a 6 speed freewheel i hate it) , the very well design torque arm , and a motor with no drag (i try to pedal a lot without the help of the motor), so i'm not very keen on regen breaking and the drag of the motor. Also not keen on compensating the drag with the controller, is it possible to buy this motor with all the features except the regen breaking so it freewheels with no drag just like a geard hub motor?
Hi Pedro, we actually still have a few samples or our earlier GMAC prototypes which do have a conventional clutch in them. Email us to info AT ebikes.ca for details if that's what you want.
Hey Justin! A former customer of yours here, from 2008, I built a huge 72V 15Ah electric bike with LiFePO4 batteries and some of your Infineon controllers and other parts using Janko Veselinovic's store services :) These were good times! Curious about the batteries you sell today, which one of them is the most powerful with regard to taking in the most regen energy back? Is that the 72V 8Ah battery with Tesla 2170 cells you sell right now? Or something else? Just thinking about maybe building myself another one, an electric cruiser like Electra, with 72V possibly, Grin all axle motor on the front, 40A controller and a throttle. Just like old times. Always wanted to use regen but recently read that batteries do not take in as much energy quickly as they dish out, i.e. most batteries are very good at discharging quickly but they can't really take a lot of energy from regen back quickly. What's your take on that? Is there an endless sphere thread discussing this that you would recommend for further reading?
Hey there Electruver and always nice to see people still around from the early days ! Most lithium batteries have no problem being charged at 1C rates for short times like this, which is really all that is required for very impressive regen braking. The cells in our 72V 8Ah packs are high rate 40T samsung cells and they can definitely handle high charging currents, but even normal cells (like Panasonic PF, GA etc) don't seem to have adverse effects from short duration charging bursts like regen. If they did we wouldn't see regen used to the degree that it is in electric cars, or the ubiquitous supercharger stations for that matter. It's only if you have a really small battery pack (say
Yes, but a bit worse even. DD motors are about 0.6-0.8 Nm, this would be more like 1.2Nm. But if you set a low voltage rollback correctly with the controller the battery will never 'die' and will always be able to cover its own drag based on the energy recaptured from regen.
Great video and groundbreaking e-bike tech. I have a TWO wheel drive E-CELLS emtb with to SAMSUNG batteries (20 Ah and 15 Ah) and two 52 V (yep, 52 V) BAFANG 750 watt motors. Can I replace those motors when they go tits up with your GMAC clutches motors in BOTH wheels and get region from both motors? If so then my only other wish is for new solid state batteries with half the weight, 50% more range and 10 minute charging!
If both your front and rear dropouts are 135mm then yes, in principle you could. But to get regenerative braking you would likely need to replace both motor controllers too.
Allo, and thanks so much for this clever contribution and general transparence. I really appreciate this service. I'm a newbie, and am trying to anticipate how this clever motor and Electronic Freewhiling would behave with dead batteries. As my interest in a non-resistant free-wheeling motor expresses in long distance riding (countryside) where occasions for recharging may be scarce. Or for the sake of riding instead of sitting at the current outlet during afternoon recharges. Since I lost endurance after being hit by a car driver, I'm apprehensive of drag. Here, the video let me to wonder if a «dead battery» (dead for riding) could serve and feed the 40W of power necessary for the Electronic Freewheeling Feature for hours... That is, without inducing a «deep discharge» in the batteries and degrade them. Or, if the Electronic Freewheeling feature holds a trick that demands less energy to manifest than the spared pedaling resistance itself. Said otherwise I beleive, am I looking for Perpetual Motion here or is my apprehension correct, that a clutched hub motor could be more beneficial than geared Regen for long expeditions away from 120V outlet? I hope my interrogation make sense, and grateful consideration if you have the time to respond.
A clutched motor would make more sense. Electronic freewheeling takes about 1/10th of the power as riding fully electric, but that still won't do for long distance riding unless you have a massive battery. I am in the same boat. I have found some good batteries and an amazing charger so I can do 1000w charging at mcdonalds etc, but I want a motor with regenerative braking. The reason is I ride with a lot of luggage (have been as much as 80kg when its hot and far between stores) and I would like something for long downhills to save my brakes. It looks like what we would need to gain the benefit of regen is a manual clutch motor.
Basically if you are riding in a situation with either lots of stop and go (eg commuting in a city) or with a decent amount of hills then you will get more back from regen than you consume to overcome drag, in some cases quite a bit more. But if you are doing long rides in the countryside where there aren't many hill, you aren't stopping very often, and you plan to pedal without assistance for good portions of the trip, then a freewheeling motor might well be best. For a direct drive motor (like the Grin All Axle hub) at normal pedal bicycle speeds (say 20 kph), the drag is more like 10 watts, while the GMAC motor is closer to 20 watts. 40 watts would be for the GMAC motor going quite a bit faster and you'd normally be pedaling unless you are zipping downhill.
This looks amazing, seems to fix so many annoyances with existing motors. Couple of questions. Currently I have an older setup with a Crystalite hub on my front wheel, an older 36V controller, and a CA2. 1) I'm not finding this setup is much help on the long hill from the ferry terminal here on Mayne Island when my cargo bike is heavily loaded (~350lbs of cargo, plus my ~200lb self). I've been considering switching to a mid-drive setup so the motor can take advantage of my gears (a Rohloff speedhub in the back). But I do prefer hub motors (regen braking FTW), so would this geared hub motor be able to help me out more (not so much with speed, but just having enough torque at low speed)? 2) Would this motor work on the front? Would it work with my existing 36V setup? Would I need to replace my controller or CA2?
Hey Emanuel and thanks for the questions. A 550lb total bicycle weight is a lot to haul up a steep gulf island hills and it's not surprising that most hub motors wouldn't be at their prime doing that. The GMAC definitely has better efficiency and low end torque than most of the Crystalyte direct drive motors, bit it can also overheat if you subject it to high loads for too long. Best is to use our motor simulator ( www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html?motor=GMAC10T&cont=cust_30_96_0.02_V&mass=249 ) to see the overheat in time and if you'd make it to the top of the hill before then or not. There's no problem running it at 36V although the speed would be lower. We would recommend upgrading to a motor controller with higher phase current capability if you want to run it at full torque, though it would work OK with the old analog Crysatlyte controllers, though the eRPM is probably too high for the Crystalyte digital controllers. At the moment though we only have a rear option in production, the front GMAC motor is still in development and probably won't be ready until 2020.
Yup, that's what regen does, whether the hill is short or long. To fully charge a flat battery from empty to full via regen requires you go down quite a significant mountain pass, think like 5000-8000 feet of elevation drop.
@@GrinTechnologies I’m liking that! So what I’m understanding is that there is always “drag” when the motor isn’t being powered? How significant would that be in a quad and each wheel had a motor? I’m looking to have 4 wheel drive to use for short sections where it it absolutely necessary, and then maybe just one or two for the flats. Where I would need pedal power it would be nice if the motors would free wheel. So far I had not seen a clutch that would do that. I did see you weld them so they’d regen. A clutch there would be cool!
Most likely, but it doesn't usually make much sense to swap out the motor and controller in an already electric bike since you've got a working motor already. If you want more power and torque than the stock motor provides, we'd normally suggest leaving that installed and adding a 2nd small geared hub motor to the front.
That would depend on what you are comparing it too. There are situations where the GMAC motor will have less range than a different motor (eg running at pretty low power levels, where a smaller motor would be better suited and more efficient) and there are cases where it will do much better (eg climbing hills, where the GMAC efficiency is noticeably better than most other hub motors on the market)
I wonder about the idea that riders want a geared motor because it doesn't have rolling resistance. Most ebikes that use a large geared motor are fat ebikes. I don't want to pedal my big, heavy, brick-shaped fat bike without assist. IMO the reason for geared motors is the low-speed torque that you mentioned. There's a big hill on my commute that I have to go around instead of over, and it's like a respected foe. I think adding a GMAC 10T on the front is my ticket to the top. I'll upgrade the rear to a G62 if that's not enough. Is it the smaller geared motors that are used for unpowered riding?
Generally you are spot on here. You can also lock the clutch on a G62 motor and have it to pretty impressive regen, but the small M12 axle with axle flats is the limiting factor here as it's not very easy to pin those against back and forth rotation via normal torque arms.
It's something we're keeping an open mind on, but at the moment the mechanical nylon gears aren't really a bottleneck in performance. You'll generally be hitting thermal limits of the motor at much lower torque levels than the where the gears themselves fail.
Yes but only if they are geared motors with freewheels, not a geared motor like the GMAC :-) The drag of a direct drive motor is about 0.6-0.8 8Nm, while the resistance of a geared motor with a clutch inside is like 0.05-0.1 Nm (it still needs to spin the gears, just not the motor).
Is the regen controllable or is it on/off? I have regen on another bike and cant really use it to its potential because Its on or off. If I crank up the regen amount, its like slamming the brakes on when the brake switch flips. It seems like we need an electronic proportional braking integrated into the brake lever. Does anyone do that yet?
The phaserunner has fully proportional regenerative braking. Since there aren't many (any?) ebrake levers on the market with analog signaling to support this, we do a trick with the CA3 where we use a regular on/off brake cutoff lever to enable a baseline amount of regen, and then while you have the brake lever pressed you can use the throttle in order to vary the braking intensity up and down. This is easy to get used to and allows us to have proportional regen using existing ebike hardware, but we agree that most ideal would be to have that proportional signal in the lever itself. That could be a 2020 project if there still isn't something suitable on the market.
Ive always made sure i bought from my own beloved country of canada!!! Its nice to see such a feature designed product! Great video! I will surely be contacting your company to help build my first ebike. Again ... Im happy to see a canadian business competing against greedy china!!! Especially after all devious things involving china and covid19!! Anyway hopefully i can afford this brand for my first and hopefully long lasting ebike build! At 53yrs i would expect it to outlast my capability to use an ebike at all lol!!!
Nothing negative that we've been able to see after about 15 years of field experience, and that's with max regen currents set to about 2C in many cases. You wouldn't want to continuously charge a battery from empty to full at that rate, but the few seconds or 10's of seconds it is present during regen braking does not seem to have any detectible effect on battery life with modern lithium packs.
Will this motor work on my 2018 RadMini as is? If not am I able to modify my platform to yours. If this is doable please advise as to making this happen. Thanks.
If that's a fatbike frame with 170-190mm rear dropouts then unfortunately it won't fit, but we are exploring the options of doing a fatbike version of the GMAC sometime in 2020 as we get a lot of requests for this.
Probably about 600V before you risk electrical insulation issues. It's not voltage that stresses and damages motors but the phase current you allow through the windings.
@kmurali - the price is on their website: www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/motors.html?motor_manufacturer=140 they even can do custom versions
There is drag but it's still possible to pedal without virtual electronic freewheeling, which is a feature of the Phaserunner/Baserunner/Frankerunner, which injects the motor with a small amount of energy to coast without drag.
Hey Rick and thanks for asking. We are planning to do a front GMAC version for 2020 and we'll look at ways of designing that axle to accomodate single side installations with the disk rotor and wire on the same side. It's unlikely to be quite as elegant as the Grin All Axle hub since we can't do a 20mm hollow axle (the small diameter motor sun gear being a limiting factor) but there should be some creative workarounds.
Agreed! Though just adding a low viscosity oil to the motor is a simple way to help with the cooling and also subduing the gear noise a little too without the complications of axial thrust that are caused with helical gears.
Grin Technologies The axial thrust could be solved by double-crossed helical gears. Adding oil sounds like a good idea, but I have heard too many stories of leakages onto brake discs. Perhaps if the motor was built to contain oil from the factory...
When my GMAC8T runs at 1-1.5kw, the wind is far louder than the motor. Cooling hasn't been an issue. Phaserunner also provides thermal limiting and rolling battery reserves in programming. These are not real world issues in my experience at 60-90F ambient on the road.
@@tarmacaddict3923 true, i don't load the motor,gears,or battery in my low-torque, speed focused, use. SF hills (driven there) i think would encourage a mid-drive with full access to all gears.
It's not suitable for rear fatbikes as those usually have 170 or 190mm dropouts. But it can work on front fatbikes forks with 135mm spacing. You'd want something like a g060 or g062 for the rear hub.
I’ll trust your answer since you’er not trying to sell me a bike. Geared hub motets have more power and torque then a direct drive.? Which type of motor breaks down more often and is harder to repair? My nest Ebike I was leaning towards a mid drive. I e only had my first Rear hub direct drive Cargo Bike since May. RAD brand. I intended to buy the Blix cargo but that’s another story.
Geared hub motors have a better torque to weight ratio than direct drive motors. But in absolute terms, most direct drive motors are pretty large and so have a respectable torque. The GMAC can produce high torques more efficiently than a similar large direct drive motor, but the direct drive motor can still do it and is more robust. We certainly have fewer repair / RMA issues with large direct drive motors like the RH212 than the GMAC motor for instance.
hang on in the braking demo you say you use nothing but regen braking..at the stop sighn the bike stops completely and abruptly...i was surprised as the braking from regen only should be nearly useless at low speed...what happening here?,,and how do you actuate the regen brake?
Hey Russel, with a controller like the Phaserunner that can do plug braking you can have 100% braking force even at a complete stop. The catch is that rather than energy going into the battery pack, you consume power. So in this situation if you looked at the Cycle Analyst while coming to a stop, at first there is lots of negative amperage going into the battery, but as the bike slows down the regen amps into the battery decreases, and then at around 5-6 kph it starts going positive and consuming energy in order to sustain that braking force. If you don't enable plug braking, then you are correct that at lower speeds the amount of regen force decreases. Maximum you can achieve without drawing power from the battery is the same as having all 3 phase wires shorted together.
ok. so its great, but the blue plastic gears need to be beefier. they strip when regening and getting a little air under the wheels and landing again. make a carbon version.
Hmmm. A cable actuated or solenoid latching clutch to engage/disengage for either scenario. Not much room you say? Engineer says "hold my small batch designer can IPA"
That heavily depends on how many hills there are on your route. If you don't have any hills on your route a freewheel would definitely save energy (and put less strain on your battery
still not as good as a mxus 3kturbo 45h motor that takes 135mm and can do regen how about a geared motor clutched that can handle 100v 135mm front 150mm rear and can output better torque than a 205 50h hubmotor...
Yup, that's exactly the business that we are in (helping DIY ebike builders and hobbyists). See: ebikes.ca/about-us/about-grin.html For people who have no interest or desire to build their own ebike from scratch, there are got countless options for turn-key factory ebikes to choose from these days, so everyone is being catered to which is great.
Me and my dog live a nomadic lifestyle on my ebike. I pull a trailer that I built myself using a wike kit. The combined weight of me, my dog, bike, trailer, and gear is 440 lbs or 200 kg. My bike is a specialized roll sport, with alot of custom parts. My motor is a 12t Mac motor, a 23ah 52 volt battery, and a cheap Chinese controller. I also have a cycle analysis ver. 3. Which makes this bike more expensive than a girlfriend, but I'm very happy with the investment. I got the whole kit from em3ev. So far I've got 1000 miles on it, but I can tell I'm gonna have problems with the controller, and the clutch is the weak point of the motor. I will be in contact with grin soon about getting a phaserunner controller, and later this motor. I pull alot of weight, and have lighten things as much as I can, but since I live on my bike I must carry alot of gear. I was wondering if this motor comes in a 12t? I really like the 12t, it's alot faster than I thought it would be. I would also like to add that mid drive isn't an option for me. I would shread any chain or cassette, not to mention pull out all the spokes of the back wheel due to the trailer. I have my motor on the front wheel, and it works out better than I thought it would.
Hey Sam and thanks for sharing the story. The reason we didn't go with a 12T option is that with the supplied Phaserunner controller there is simply no advantage to the slower winding. It doesn't produce any more sustainable torque as the Phaserunner can already put out more continuous phase current than the motor is able to handle before going into thermal rollback. A slower winding is only beneficial when you are bottle necked by the phase current output of the controller, or by thin gauge motor phase wiring, neither of which apply here. If you have a front MAC motor already on the setup, then it would work quite well to run a dual motor system with the GMAC on the rear wheel. You'll be able to share the load across two hub motors which will allow it to climb with much better efficiency than 1 motor, and you'll get the regen benefits of the GMAC on the back. See: www.ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-kits.html#dual-hub-motors
Grin Technologies I've thought about going with a dual motor set up. What worries me is the torquing of the towbar of the trailer on the motor. It will have to be able to withstand 75kgs of lateral load shifting on one side of the axel. If you believe that it can take it, I will green light it. I will also need to get another battery which will add even more weight.
@@samstarr7766 From a load perspective it's no different than the towbar being on a non-electric hub axle. 75kg of trailer weight is nothing compared to what some of our customers have pulled behind them!
Aaaaaargh!!! The soundtrack - it's terrible. Like these boring vids you see running all the time in big hardware stores. Can't you do any better than that? If not, just leave it out.
I kept stopping the video thinking something else somewhere is making "splashing sounds" ... I then thought they had some crappy water feature in the office that kept making splashes, I thought they should have just turned it off for the video, until I realised, it was just the music the whole time. Doh
Hey guys and sorry about that, still working out what does and doesn't work well in the video production department! You'll notice that the two follow up videos (installation and the virtual freewheeling demo) are silent with no sound track partly in response to the feedback here.
Congrats! This is a quantum leap forward in e-bike hub motors!
Thanks! I wouldn't quite say quantum leap, but it's at least a lot of incremental changes to an existing proven motor model in order to have it run at the full potential. We hope to stimulates the industry at large to explore the clutchless geared motor route, and integrated inside-the-dropout torque arms.
EbikeSchool.com is this technology available for sale yet in any commercial Electric bikes?
Grin Technologies is this technology available for sale yet in any commercial Electric bikes?
@@shadowdance4666 ebikes.ca has a list of dealers. Hilleater is one bike I know of. I'd love this motor on a FS hilleater.ca/52v-hilleater-galiano-phaserunner-se/
What’s the best ebike motor setup for my Dahon Speed Uno folding bike with 75mm front and 120mm rear spacings? I really like the torque integrated into the hub. Thank you.
Great product Justin, I got one of the very first BMC/MAC geared motors way back in the day 14 years ago and its still working as I use it for my daily commuter bike, its done 40,000 miles, at power levels over 2kw the internal clutches in the motors struggled over time, I found the sweet spot was about 1.6kw so 50V 35 Amps max would mean you would get a decent clutch life, also soft starting acceleration and reasonable throttle use helps, never needed torque arms over that time as the axle sat in a steel frame with thick dropouts.
This looks like a wonderful adaptation, the removal of the clutch removes the weak spot of the original geared motors, combined with the injection of power from the phaserunner will make this a powerful and reliable system, I also love the fact that the power wires comes out of the side.
Blown away by how well you have made your business grow and really pleased to see my friends from way back in early 2000s that were on the scene back then have made successful businesses and am surprised that it took the normal bike industry so long to cotton on to how amazing ebikes are.
Best Wishes
Knoxie
I just told someone the other day that geared motors can't do regen, now I have the slightest bit of egg on my face :) You guys really did your homework on this one! This could well be the perfect hub motor!
Your only problem was timing, and you're a big enough person to admit it. Good on ya, "A sharp". :-)
i bought a direct drive a few months back simply because i like the idea of charging while riding, i ended up finding this video shortly after putting everything on my bike but by then it was too late cause i already spent 700$, if you think your timing is bad don't worry mine was worse lol
Excellent and well done Justin.PS thanks for what you did for the Endless Sphere forum.
I want to feel it. I got the direct drive 1500 W hub heavy. What do I need to do? Do you have what I need to regenerative break?
point in the right direction I have another bike. I want to convert now. I'm not sure what kind of motor to go with. I was gonna go with a mid drive. Maybe I want a geared hub motor have no idea. Learn more before I make a decision on my second bike.. Am I gonna need a new motor controller? I don't have a screen. I just have a throttle with a little led battery capacity readout. Got A52 tooth chain ring, so I won't spin out when I'm in. Full throttle, it's like I'm stuck on full throttle. I just go full throttle everywhere I go. LOL less I have to ride slower for whatever reason. I remember I was racing mountain bikes. When rock shock made the first front fork Shock.. You'd have told me there'll be wireless derailers. And electric motors on bicycles. I'd have been like yeah, right?
Sounds like you could start with a good couple afternoons of reading!
ebikes.ca/getting-started/ebikes-parts-explained.html
ebikes.ca/getting-started/hub-motor-options.html
ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/baserunner.html
In general the GMAC motor has a higher share of mechanical issues due to the internal complexity of the geared hub design and MAC motor's overall QC, so we tend to steer people towards the V3 All-Axle hub motor which is only a couple hundred grams heavier with all the benefits of DD:
ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-products/all-axle-hub-motor.html
The internal clutch or planetary gears assembly is not listed on the company's website. Where can I get a replacement?
2yrs later: what are your STATs ??
GMAC8T, Cycle Analyst 3, Torque sensing PAS, Phaserunner with Regen Braking, Joysi 52v14ah.
Commute 32 flat miles R/Trip.
29er MTB, 200Lb rider.
12.7 wh/mi avg , 25.6mph avg , yes, i pedal.
Recharges during work (
Hey bravo and thanks for sharing this. 12.7 wh/mi at 25 mph is some pretty good usage stats for a 200lb rider! My consumption is more like 20 wh/mi, but I ride a cargo bike with low pressure tires and often carrying my wife or child on the back seat. But the best bit is # times I've adjusted the brake pads? = 0. Love regen!
Amazing that even a Tesla uses 200-300 whhr/mi for comparrison. The bicycle is a very efficient machine !
Before i decide to spend my money - any real world numbers behind that "20W" power consumption for electronic freewheel? Any tests? How it affect battery usage IN REAL CONDITIONS? Please tell us. BTW where to buy gmac motor in Europe?
The GMAC should be available at ebike-solutions in germany in early 2020:
www.ebike-solutions.com/
In real world riding conditions the energy used by electronic freewheeling is almost always less than you get back from the regenerative braking. Nothing has changed in the fundamentals since I wrote this short thesis here:
endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7891#p119214
Notice that all of that was based on actual logged ride data.
Pretty cool guys! I've checked your site, but couldn't find a power and torque range, do you have some estimates?
www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html?motor=GMAC10T&cont=C35&batt=B4823_AC
@@GrinTechnologies Great! Thanks
Curious as you build it to wheels can you request say a 190mm drop out width?
Nope, that requires a dedicated fat bike hub motor. You can't space out the freehub body on one side and the disk rotor mount and splines torque arm on the other side and somehow turn a 135mm OLD into a 190mm. We have the G62 hub for that, which can be ordered with a welded clutch if you want regen
Any sneak peeks for the front hub geared motor with regen enabled that's coming soon? Which motor will it be based on and would it fit standard fork spacings?
Also are there any plans to make proportional braking signal levers/tripwires yet?
Ha we've had the motors ready for this for over 3 months but are still finalizing the torque arm details which proved trickier than expected. Both the eZee and Shengyi SX1 will be available with regen options once we are ready.
@@GrinTechnologies is the front hub GMAC no longer on the roadmap? also would it be possible to get the regen-modded shengyi motors now before the torque arms are ready?
curious about the tricky details o.o
Justin, this is great! I'm really proud of what you and Grin are doing. My next bike related purchase will be the GMAC!
Without a clutch this technically works on unicycles too! (if you don't mind the lack of pedals)
Wow very cool Justin! I love that set of features!
Dang !!! I so happy I ran across this video! What an awesome engineering addition to the gears hub! Thank you Justin!!!
Are there any motors with a feature set like this for the front hub? And maybe a bit smaller and cheaper.
I kinda want to add a motor to my commuting bike (that I sometimes use for grocery store trips with rear rack baskets) without changing out too much parts, and I want the regen braking feature and also the smaller size of a geared motor. The splined torque arm also seems nice to have.
I think we'll have something soon for a front hub that's cheaper than the GMAC, though it won't have an integrated torque arm. Stay tuned in the coming months.
@@GrinTechnologies Is that going to be a locked freewheel gear assembly for Shengyi SX1?
This is awesome. I want one immediately.
Justin hello, i realy like the upgrades, they make a lot of sense. For me a must have is the 10mm axel (mine is a 14 and i can't seam to seat the caliper with the rotor) , super important is the 11 speed freehub cassete (mine is a 6 speed freewheel i hate it) , the very well design torque arm , and a motor with no drag (i try to pedal a lot without the help of the motor), so i'm not very keen on regen breaking and the drag of the motor. Also not keen on compensating the drag with the controller, is it possible to buy this motor with all the features except the regen breaking so it freewheels with no drag just like a geard hub motor?
Hi Pedro, we actually still have a few samples or our earlier GMAC prototypes which do have a conventional clutch in them. Email us to info AT ebikes.ca for details if that's what you want.
Great video! Can I add that to my trek fx2?
Hey Justin! A former customer of yours here, from 2008, I built a huge 72V 15Ah electric bike with LiFePO4 batteries and some of your Infineon controllers and other parts using Janko Veselinovic's store services :) These were good times! Curious about the batteries you sell today, which one of them is the most powerful with regard to taking in the most regen energy back? Is that the 72V 8Ah battery with Tesla 2170 cells you sell right now? Or something else? Just thinking about maybe building myself another one, an electric cruiser like Electra, with 72V possibly, Grin all axle motor on the front, 40A controller and a throttle. Just like old times. Always wanted to use regen but recently read that batteries do not take in as much energy quickly as they dish out, i.e. most batteries are very good at discharging quickly but they can't really take a lot of energy from regen back quickly. What's your take on that? Is there an endless sphere thread discussing this that you would recommend for further reading?
Hey there Electruver and always nice to see people still around from the early days ! Most lithium batteries have no problem being charged at 1C rates for short times like this, which is really all that is required for very impressive regen braking. The cells in our 72V 8Ah packs are high rate 40T samsung cells and they can definitely handle high charging currents, but even normal cells (like Panasonic PF, GA etc) don't seem to have adverse effects from short duration charging bursts like regen. If they did we wouldn't see regen used to the degree that it is in electric cars, or the ubiquitous supercharger stations for that matter. It's only if you have a really small battery pack (say
Good Lord... How much did that bike weigh? Wish LifePo4 was still a chemistry available on ebike batteries
Worth using on front wheel? There motors using graphene coated or carbon nanotube wires?
So when the battery dies, pedaling this motor is like pedaling a direct drive, is that correct?
Yes, but a bit worse even. DD motors are about 0.6-0.8 Nm, this would be more like 1.2Nm. But if you set a low voltage rollback correctly with the controller the battery will never 'die' and will always be able to cover its own drag based on the energy recaptured from regen.
Great video and groundbreaking e-bike tech. I have a TWO wheel drive E-CELLS emtb with to SAMSUNG batteries (20 Ah and 15 Ah) and two 52 V (yep, 52 V) BAFANG 750 watt motors. Can I replace those motors when they go tits up with your GMAC clutches motors in BOTH wheels and get region from both motors?
If so then my only other wish is for new solid state batteries with half the weight, 50% more range and 10 minute charging!
If both your front and rear dropouts are 135mm then yes, in principle you could. But to get regenerative braking you would likely need to replace both motor controllers too.
Allo, and thanks so much for this clever contribution and general transparence. I really appreciate this service. I'm a newbie, and am trying to anticipate how this clever motor and Electronic Freewhiling would behave with dead batteries. As my interest in a non-resistant free-wheeling motor expresses in long distance riding (countryside) where occasions for recharging may be scarce. Or for the sake of riding instead of sitting at the current outlet during afternoon recharges. Since I lost endurance after being hit by a car driver, I'm apprehensive of drag.
Here, the video let me to wonder if a «dead battery» (dead for riding) could serve and feed the 40W of power necessary for the Electronic Freewheeling Feature for hours... That is, without inducing a «deep discharge» in the batteries and degrade them. Or, if the Electronic Freewheeling feature holds a trick that demands less energy to manifest than the spared pedaling resistance itself.
Said otherwise I beleive, am I looking for Perpetual Motion here or is my apprehension correct, that a clutched hub motor could be more beneficial than geared Regen for long expeditions away from 120V outlet? I hope my interrogation make sense, and grateful consideration if you have the time to respond.
A clutched motor would make more sense. Electronic freewheeling takes about 1/10th of the power as riding fully electric, but that still won't do for long distance riding unless you have a massive battery.
I am in the same boat. I have found some good batteries and an amazing charger so I can do 1000w charging at mcdonalds etc, but I want a motor with regenerative braking. The reason is I ride with a lot of luggage (have been as much as 80kg when its hot and far between stores) and I would like something for long downhills to save my brakes.
It looks like what we would need to gain the benefit of regen is a manual clutch motor.
Basically if you are riding in a situation with either lots of stop and go (eg commuting in a city) or with a decent amount of hills then you will get more back from regen than you consume to overcome drag, in some cases quite a bit more. But if you are doing long rides in the countryside where there aren't many hill, you aren't stopping very often, and you plan to pedal without assistance for good portions of the trip, then a freewheeling motor might well be best.
For a direct drive motor (like the Grin All Axle hub) at normal pedal bicycle speeds (say 20 kph), the drag is more like 10 watts, while the GMAC motor is closer to 20 watts. 40 watts would be for the GMAC motor going quite a bit faster and you'd normally be pedaling unless you are zipping downhill.
I love this, but why does the video play on loop??
This looks amazing, seems to fix so many annoyances with existing motors. Couple of questions. Currently I have an older setup with a Crystalite hub on my front wheel, an older 36V controller, and a CA2.
1) I'm not finding this setup is much help on the long hill from the ferry terminal here on Mayne Island when my cargo bike is heavily loaded (~350lbs of cargo, plus my ~200lb self). I've been considering switching to a mid-drive setup so the motor can take advantage of my gears (a Rohloff speedhub in the back). But I do prefer hub motors (regen braking FTW), so would this geared hub motor be able to help me out more (not so much with speed, but just having enough torque at low speed)?
2) Would this motor work on the front? Would it work with my existing 36V setup? Would I need to replace my controller or CA2?
Hey Emanuel and thanks for the questions. A 550lb total bicycle weight is a lot to haul up a steep gulf island hills and it's not surprising that most hub motors wouldn't be at their prime doing that. The GMAC definitely has better efficiency and low end torque than most of the Crystalyte direct drive motors, bit it can also overheat if you subject it to high loads for too long. Best is to use our motor simulator ( www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html?motor=GMAC10T&cont=cust_30_96_0.02_V&mass=249 ) to see the overheat in time and if you'd make it to the top of the hill before then or not.
There's no problem running it at 36V although the speed would be lower. We would recommend upgrading to a motor controller with higher phase current capability if you want to run it at full torque, though it would work OK with the old analog Crysatlyte controllers, though the eRPM is probably too high for the Crystalyte digital controllers.
At the moment though we only have a rear option in production, the front GMAC motor is still in development and probably won't be ready until 2020.
Looks great. I tried to make an E-trike but could never get a good speed controller.
is this technology available for sale yet in any commercial Electric bikes?
Rad!
This looks so much more convenient!
So in very long downhill coasting I can charge the batteries? Say it was 10s of miles long?
Yup, that's what regen does, whether the hill is short or long. To fully charge a flat battery from empty to full via regen requires you go down quite a significant mountain pass, think like 5000-8000 feet of elevation drop.
@@GrinTechnologies I’m liking that! So what I’m understanding is that there is always “drag” when the motor isn’t being powered? How significant would that be in a quad and each wheel had a motor? I’m looking to have 4 wheel drive to use for short sections where it it absolutely necessary, and then maybe just one or two for the flats. Where I would need pedal power it would be nice if the motors would free wheel. So far I had not seen a clutch that would do that. I did see you weld them so they’d regen. A clutch there would be cool!
Will this motor fit a RAD City Step Through. It now has a direct drive motor
Most likely, but it doesn't usually make much sense to swap out the motor and controller in an already electric bike since you've got a working motor already. If you want more power and torque than the stock motor provides, we'd normally suggest leaving that installed and adding a 2nd small geared hub motor to the front.
So instead of just 10% of extended range and energy savings... what's the percentage now with this motor?
That would depend on what you are comparing it too. There are situations where the GMAC motor will have less range than a different motor (eg running at pretty low power levels, where a smaller motor would be better suited and more efficient) and there are cases where it will do much better (eg climbing hills, where the GMAC efficiency is noticeably better than most other hub motors on the market)
My Regen is really about not having to change brake pads every couple weeks. This bike/rider is about 300lbs at 25mph avg= brake heat.
Sounds kinda gay
@@thedronehorseman4713 Eric Luna...is this you? You mad, girl...
I wonder about the idea that riders want a geared motor because it doesn't have rolling resistance. Most ebikes that use a large geared motor are fat ebikes. I don't want to pedal my big, heavy, brick-shaped fat bike without assist. IMO the reason for geared motors is the low-speed torque that you mentioned. There's a big hill on my commute that I have to go around instead of over, and it's like a respected foe. I think adding a GMAC 10T on the front is my ticket to the top. I'll upgrade the rear to a G62 if that's not enough. Is it the smaller geared motors that are used for unpowered riding?
Generally you are spot on here. You can also lock the clutch on a G62 motor and have it to pretty impressive regen, but the small M12 axle with axle flats is the limiting factor here as it's not very easy to pin those against back and forth rotation via normal torque arms.
Will we ever see a non nylon geared version for serious power?
It's something we're keeping an open mind on, but at the moment the mechanical nylon gears aren't really a bottleneck in performance. You'll generally be hitting thermal limits of the motor at much lower torque levels than the where the gears themselves fail.
Also, the current nylon gears are very quiet.
Do dual front and back geared hub motors have less drag/pedal resistance than a single direct drive hub motor?
Yes but only if they are geared motors with freewheels, not a geared motor like the GMAC :-) The drag of a direct drive motor is about 0.6-0.8 8Nm, while the resistance of a geared motor with a clutch inside is like 0.05-0.1 Nm (it still needs to spin the gears, just not the motor).
SHUT UP AND TAKE MY MONEY!
Does a cassette lock ring tool slide over the axle so it can be removed or installed?
Yes, the GMAC axle is just 10mm so any standard locking tool will fit over it no problem.
the gold standared i wish they would produce a budget friendly version,
Great stuff and all in English 😎👍🏻🇬🇧
Is the regen controllable or is it on/off? I have regen on another bike and cant really use it to its potential because Its on or off. If I crank up the regen amount, its like slamming the brakes on when the brake switch flips. It seems like we need an electronic proportional braking integrated into the brake lever. Does anyone do that yet?
The phaserunner has fully proportional regenerative braking. Since there aren't many (any?) ebrake levers on the market with analog signaling to support this, we do a trick with the CA3 where we use a regular on/off brake cutoff lever to enable a baseline amount of regen, and then while you have the brake lever pressed you can use the throttle in order to vary the braking intensity up and down. This is easy to get used to and allows us to have proportional regen using existing ebike hardware, but we agree that most ideal would be to have that proportional signal in the lever itself. That could be a 2020 project if there still isn't something suitable on the market.
@@GrinTechnologiesi find the proportional regen on the brake/throttle to be quite natural now. Took about 4 times to sink in though
amazing motor and i wery like that motor not have inside it freewell and you can have reg. braking!
wery like!?! Silly wabbit! :P
Well done!
This should definitely be industry standard.
unfortunately it will be a while before chinese manufactures ditch direct drives and switch to clutchless geared motors
Ive always made sure i bought from my own beloved country of canada!!! Its nice to see such a feature designed product! Great video! I will surely be contacting your company to help build my first ebike. Again ... Im happy to see a canadian business competing against greedy china!!! Especially after all devious things involving china and covid19!! Anyway hopefully i can afford this brand for my first and hopefully long lasting ebike build! At 53yrs i would expect it to outlast my capability to use an ebike at all lol!!!
Классный обзорчик,идея с драпаутами интересная
I want one of these so bad for a daily city bike but cant afford one yet.
I am working on a delta tricycle with pedals and gears on the front wheel. would this work?
Assuming that you have a 135m dropout spacing for the front wheel and normal derailleur gears, then yes it should work just fine!
Alberto, I have built 2 Delta Trikes & have an idea for a new design. Would you be interested in sharing ideas?
daytriker sure 🙂
@@AlbertoDPL - mid-islandadventures.weebly.com/
What does regenerative braking do to the life of the battery?
Nothing negative that we've been able to see after about 15 years of field experience, and that's with max regen currents set to about 2C in many cases. You wouldn't want to continuously charge a battery from empty to full at that rate, but the few seconds or 10's of seconds it is present during regen braking does not seem to have any detectible effect on battery life with modern lithium packs.
How much NM of torque @ 48v or 52v?
That depends on the phase current limit of your motor controller, not on the voltage of the battery pack. See ruclips.net/video/c96n0Ma2rLY/видео.html
Will this motor work on my 2018 RadMini as is? If not am I able to modify my platform to yours. If this is doable please advise as to making this happen. Thanks.
If that's a fatbike frame with 170-190mm rear dropouts then unfortunately it won't fit, but we are exploring the options of doing a fatbike version of the GMAC sometime in 2020 as we get a lot of requests for this.
how much voltage could you pump through one of these?
Probably about 600V before you risk electrical insulation issues. It's not voltage that stresses and damages motors but the phase current you allow through the windings.
@@GrinTechnologies Interesting, do you mean 60v?
@kmurali - the price is on their website: www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/motors.html?motor_manufacturer=140 they even can do custom versions
Can you still pedal or get drag
There is drag but it's still possible to pedal without virtual electronic freewheeling, which is a feature of the Phaserunner/Baserunner/Frankerunner, which injects the motor with a small amount of energy to coast without drag.
Great improvements! Do you plan on developing a version of this motor for single-sided mounting like your Single-Sided All Axis Hub Motor?
Hey Rick and thanks for asking. We are planning to do a front GMAC version for 2020 and we'll look at ways of designing that axle to accomodate single side installations with the disk rotor and wire on the same side. It's unlikely to be quite as elegant as the Grin All Axle hub since we can't do a 20mm hollow axle (the small diameter motor sun gear being a limiting factor) but there should be some creative workarounds.
Is this technology from Bionx?
The GMAC is a collaberation between Mac Motors and Grin, so far it is just a conversion kit product.
Aaron Enevoldsen it’ll be nice to see them in commercially ready e bikes
زبردست very good
If they could use helical gears to make it quieter and improve the motor cooling, it would be awesome.
Agreed! Though just adding a low viscosity oil to the motor is a simple way to help with the cooling and also subduing the gear noise a little too without the complications of axial thrust that are caused with helical gears.
Grin Technologies The axial thrust could be solved by double-crossed helical gears. Adding oil sounds like a good idea, but I have heard too many stories of leakages onto brake discs. Perhaps if the motor was built to contain oil from the factory...
When my GMAC8T runs at 1-1.5kw, the wind is far louder than the motor. Cooling hasn't been an issue. Phaserunner also provides thermal limiting and rolling battery reserves in programming. These are not real world issues in my experience at 60-90F ambient on the road.
SoloSailor sv For you, Yes, but everyone around can hear the motor screaming. If you live in a hilly place overheating is a problem.
@@tarmacaddict3923 true, i don't load the motor,gears,or battery in my low-torque, speed focused, use.
SF hills (driven there) i think would encourage a mid-drive with full access to all gears.
I want one of these front and rear for my fat bike 26 inch tire but I can’t get a hold of anyone on the phone
It's not suitable for rear fatbikes as those usually have 170 or 190mm dropouts. But it can work on front fatbikes forks with 135mm spacing. You'd want something like a g060 or g062 for the rear hub.
I’ll trust your answer since you’er not trying to sell me a bike. Geared hub motets have more power and torque then a direct drive.? Which type of motor breaks down more often and is harder to repair? My nest Ebike I was leaning towards a mid drive.
I e only had my first Rear hub direct drive Cargo Bike since May. RAD brand. I intended to buy the Blix cargo but that’s another story.
Geared hub motors have a better torque to weight ratio than direct drive motors. But in absolute terms, most direct drive motors are pretty large and so have a respectable torque. The GMAC can produce high torques more efficiently than a similar large direct drive motor, but the direct drive motor can still do it and is more robust. We certainly have fewer repair / RMA issues with large direct drive motors like the RH212 than the GMAC motor for instance.
hang on in the braking demo you say you use nothing but regen braking..at the stop sighn the bike stops completely and abruptly...i was surprised as the braking from regen only should be nearly useless at low speed...what happening here?,,and how do you actuate the regen brake?
Hey Russel, with a controller like the Phaserunner that can do plug braking you can have 100% braking force even at a complete stop. The catch is that rather than energy going into the battery pack, you consume power. So in this situation if you looked at the Cycle Analyst while coming to a stop, at first there is lots of negative amperage going into the battery, but as the bike slows down the regen amps into the battery decreases, and then at around 5-6 kph it starts going positive and consuming energy in order to sustain that braking force.
If you don't enable plug braking, then you are correct that at lower speeds the amount of regen force decreases. Maximum you can achieve without drawing power from the battery is the same as having all 3 phase wires shorted together.
@@GrinTechnologies very interesting!
Geared Regen, genius. 👍👍
Cool!!
pretty cool!
Wouldn't that just wear out the plastic gears even faster?
is it waterproof?
It's not an aquatic motor but yes, it uses a waterproof plug standard and we use it all year round in rainy Vancouver.
Time to sale the car.
If they could fill it with oil like the Heinzmann CargoPower, that would be awesome.
You can in fact with reasonably good success. That will be subject of a later video!
Master
ok. so its great, but the blue plastic gears need to be beefier. they strip when regening and getting a little air under the wheels and landing again. make a carbon version.
4:15 clever.
Hmmm. A cable actuated or solenoid latching clutch to engage/disengage for either scenario. Not much room you say? Engineer says "hold my small batch designer can IPA"
Fellow engineer is waiting for an actual example of an elegantly built latching solenoid clutch geared motor :-)
What a Dad! Go change a diaper smarty pants.
I doubt that regen braking for 3 seconds would top off the 20w of constant " Freewheel" feeling needed...
Regen on a bike saves brakes that's it, not enough mass to put any REAL charge back in the battery
@@ianmangham4570 You are correct. This is just a marketing ploy in very light EVs'.
That heavily depends on how many hills there are on your route. If you don't have any hills on your route a freewheel would definitely save energy (and put less strain on your battery
@@AniviaS Yes, going uphill kills batteries way too fast anyway compared with the regen
still not as good as a mxus 3kturbo 45h motor that takes 135mm and can do regen
how about a geared motor clutched that can handle 100v 135mm front 150mm rear and can output better torque than a 205 50h hubmotor...
Tell your video editor to turn down the volume of the "background" music. It's pretty irritating.
Prize pls....?
Other dudes right bro, shut up and take our money thanks:)
So the consumer has to buy your parts and figure out how to build an ebike.
Yup, that's exactly the business that we are in (helping DIY ebike builders and hobbyists). See:
ebikes.ca/about-us/about-grin.html
For people who have no interest or desire to build their own ebike from scratch, there are got countless options for turn-key factory ebikes to choose from these days, so everyone is being catered to which is great.
Me and my dog live a nomadic lifestyle on my ebike. I pull a trailer that I built myself using a wike kit. The combined weight of me, my dog, bike, trailer, and gear is 440 lbs or 200 kg. My bike is a specialized roll sport, with alot of custom parts. My motor is a 12t Mac motor, a 23ah 52 volt battery, and a cheap Chinese controller. I also have a cycle analysis ver. 3. Which makes this bike more expensive than a girlfriend, but I'm very happy with the investment. I got the whole kit from em3ev. So far I've got 1000 miles on it, but I can tell I'm gonna have problems with the controller, and the clutch is the weak point of the motor. I will be in contact with grin soon about getting a phaserunner controller, and later this motor. I pull alot of weight, and have lighten things as much as I can, but since I live on my bike I must carry alot of gear. I was wondering if this motor comes in a 12t? I really like the 12t, it's alot faster than I thought it would be. I would also like to add that mid drive isn't an option for me. I would shread any chain or cassette, not to mention pull out all the spokes of the back wheel due to the trailer. I have my motor on the front wheel, and it works out better than I thought it would.
Hey Sam and thanks for sharing the story. The reason we didn't go with a 12T option is that with the supplied Phaserunner controller there is simply no advantage to the slower winding. It doesn't produce any more sustainable torque as the Phaserunner can already put out more continuous phase current than the motor is able to handle before going into thermal rollback. A slower winding is only beneficial when you are bottle necked by the phase current output of the controller, or by thin gauge motor phase wiring, neither of which apply here.
If you have a front MAC motor already on the setup, then it would work quite well to run a dual motor system with the GMAC on the rear wheel. You'll be able to share the load across two hub motors which will allow it to climb with much better efficiency than 1 motor, and you'll get the regen benefits of the GMAC on the back. See:
www.ebikes.ca/product-info/grin-kits.html#dual-hub-motors
Grin Technologies I've thought about going with a dual motor set up. What worries me is the torquing of the towbar of the trailer on the motor. It will have to be able to withstand 75kgs of lateral load shifting on one side of the axel. If you believe that it can take it, I will green light it. I will also need to get another battery which will add even more weight.
@@samstarr7766 From a load perspective it's no different than the towbar being on a non-electric hub axle. 75kg of trailer weight is nothing compared to what some of our customers have pulled behind them!
Over molded plug
Everyone knows his bike is ugly
Aaaaaargh!!! The soundtrack - it's terrible.
Like these boring vids you see running all the time in big hardware stores.
Can't you do any better than that? If not, just leave it out.
I kept stopping the video thinking something else somewhere is making "splashing sounds" ...
I then thought they had some crappy water feature in the office that kept making splashes, I thought they should have just turned it off for the video, until I realised, it was just the music the whole time. Doh
Hey guys and sorry about that, still working out what does and doesn't work well in the video production department! You'll notice that the two follow up videos (installation and the virtual freewheeling demo) are silent with no sound track partly in response to the feedback here.
@@GrinTechnologies maybe you have a part-time musician in your clan that could do better