Richard Raffan's asymmetric gouge bowl gouge
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- Опубликовано: 17 авг 2022
- An asymmetrical bowl gouge saves you having two gouges with different bevels. I show how it's used, and then how to sharpen it on an 80-grit CBN wheel. I use edges straight off the 80-grit wheel.
It's so useful to see this in such clear closeup. We often hear people describe how they're using the tools but rarely see it so clearly.
I just rallied up the nerve to grind my new half inch bowl gouge with the asymmetrical grind. I have only just tried it, and am happy with my modest results. Thank you Mr. Raffan, I don't really think you know how much you, and your creations, are appreciated!
I really appreciate how you take the time to show how you use and sharpen your tools. It's fun to watch a bowl being turned, but it is far more enlightening to see how you prepare the tool and engage it to the wood. I always want to improve my skills and you really show me expert technique. Thanks for sharing.
as a relative beginner, I must say this. Carbide tips make turning easier to newbies, but this lesson above is invaluable about learning how tools actually cut , and correct techniques to shape those tools. A traditional tool, correctly sharpened will always be more satisfying to work with. Sharpening is part of the art - I love my cheap chinese tips also !
Carbide scrapers don't retain their ultimate sharpness for long, so consequently rarely produce a clean surface off the tool, even when turning timbers pried for their workability. People tend to forget that it pays to seek out decent timber to turn, rather than using any old 'free' wood that comes their way.
While watching this excellent video, I realized that my gouge grind has been slowly evolving to this, but without fully understanding why. Now I get it! This grind makes perfect sense to me, from the convex edge to the shorter right edge that allows tighter interior turns. Thank you, Richard.
I'm pretty knowledgeable about the technical aspects of turning, but I'm not worthy to sweep the shavings from Mr. Raffan's lathe. Thank you Sir for all your instruction.
Thanks for showing and explaining how to use and sharpen this multi-purpose gouge!
After the mentions in your books, my interest had been piqued and now you have “turned the lights on” for me.
Thanks!
Love watching you turn Richard as I learn such a lot on different tool presentation and grinds. If you have a slight catch you don't edit out and show us that you are human too! Nothing pretentious .... just good turning. Thankyou for posting videos for us to learn.
Somehow you alway raise the standard with your demonstrations. I have to watch each one multiple times, and I always add them to my saved file. Thanks!
I'm delighted to be able to help any one avoid the problems I've had.
Tricks of the trade from a true tradesman. Awesome tip. Great grind for removing wood fast. No need to run out and purchase a 3/4" bowl gouge. Great to see another custom grind without a specialty jig. Thank you for all the tips you're sharing.
Brilliant as always 🙂
Great lesson Richard. Thanks much.
Always such great information with very clear detailed explanations being given. Good close up camera angles supporting the topics being demonstrated. Please keep these up, they're a fantastic learning tool and very much appreciated, thank you Richard. I last saw you doing a (final?) UK demo at Turners retreat a couple of years ago I think, (pre-Covid in the UK). It was such a highlight for me. Thanks again.
Thank you. It was before the pandemic and probably my last demo in Britain. I was on my way to the Norwegian Cruise which is on again next year. Highly recommended.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Does that mean you will be on the cruise and demonstrating?
@@WhoGnu08 Probably not. My 80th birthday, should it occur, will be mid-cruise and anyway chances are I can't afford the travel insurance to get there.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Alas, my loss. Like many others, you were my guide to woodturning. I have all your books and your videos and it is through them that I learned what little I know of this craft. I would have loved to see you in person. But these youtube videos are pretty good and each one, to me, is like a master class. Thank you.
Thank you for sharing this great lesson Richard. Ive learned so much from watching your series here on RUclips. I cant wait to see the next one!
Very informative 👏 thank you for sharing your knowledge 👍
Thank you Richard! This is awesome information and a great demonstration.
Thanks for the demo and sharing the ideas and information on the tool shape and sharpening.
Take care
Cheers
Harold
Excellent video and presentatipn. Thank you.
Thanks for making these videos. Great information. Enjoy them a lot.
Thankyou.
Very good tutorial. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.
A very useful and insightful video. The grind provides much more flexibility and is fun to use. Grinding it by hand is certainly a skill to pursue. In the meantime, using a jig for repeatability is super helpful and perhaps a bit more frugal. Thanks for another goodie, Richard!
Great video Richard, understanding assimetric grind changed my turning
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience, it is very helpful for novices like me.
C’est vraiment excellent ton tournage Richard bravo et ton aiguisage de gouge est vraiment superbe 👍👍👏👏
I think i would bugger up the sharpening of that,.You Sir run that gouge like a top. Thank you for sharing
No way of knowing until you try..... then it's all practice.
I need to practice more. Thank-you, sir.
Don't we all!
very good video for learning about this shape of gouge. Thanks Richard for the effort. If you are the cameraman, congratulations, diferent angles, very well focused and lightin. But the contents is that really matters. I wish you good health so that you can continue teaching us your techniques for many more years. A hug from Spain.
This video is all down to me. Glad it works for you.
I appreciate you showing the sharpening techniques. I don't have a jig and sometime it's a struggle to get the right shape and get them sharp. Using reg grinding wheels.
I still like the aluminium oxide for freehand grinding using a bar rest. CBN is better for jig and platform users.
Thanks for the video. I had only been using one for end grain bowls cutting from center out. I will give it a try as this looks very versatile.
Enjoy the shavings
Hello, what do you do with all these bowls that you turn Tim? Also, what finish do you use, if I may ask? Best regards.
@@johnmitchell1614 I'm a professional turner so everything I turn gets sold. My finish on everything is a mix of boiled linseed oil and beeswax.
I’m definitely going to try this grind. I have an asymmetrical spindle gouge for hollowing end grain lidded bowls. If you have time please go into more detail with your scraper that has the notch on the left side. Thanks again for sharing Richard.
A dedicated scraper video is on my list.
Very true
Thanks for showing how this grind is done. It is one that I have seen Kirk DeHeer use (I am sure he learned it from you) and wondered how to grind it. Do you have suggestions for grinding a new tool to this profile. Like what angles do you want on the side wings.
The main thing is to have a 45° bevel on the nose that becomes steeper on the right wing, then make sure the left wing is convex rather than straight. As you push the gouge up the grinding wheel the left side bevel should take care of itself. I've never measured it - you don't want it thin enough to be fragile.
Thank you for this lesson.
How did you come up with the asymmetric grind?
In 1970 deep-fluted bowl gouges were ground straight across. When hollowing bowls I kept catching the left corner so I removed it. After that I had many fewer catches and ribbons of shavings meters long off the still-square right wing. Then I found the swept back left wing could remove a lot of waste each pass when shaping the bowl profiles. And finally that rounding the right wing might reduce catches when making back-cuts up a bowl profile. Which it did.
Hello, Richard
Wow! Nothing like watching a master demonstrate years of practiced skills.
If I may ask (I have searched the net for an 'asymmetrical bowl gouge', however, none found) ... the assymetrical gouge that you are demonstrating with; did you grind / sharpen a standard gouge; to that assymetrical shape yourself ... !? Hence you having the only one on the planet ... clever boy! Or; even better, do you produce; and sell them yourself ... !?
In other words ... 'I want one ... !' Haha!
Love your demo's.
Best ...
William (Hampshire UK)
I was never in the business of selling tools because I was always too busy turning bowls to fulfill orders. Manufacturers generally have standard gouges on which you can grind any bevel you like. Rarely is a factory grind the most useful. So select the gouge profile you prefer, then shape it to how you want it. Having said that, Henry Taylor do make asymmetric bowl gouges as part of the Raffan Signature range, originally made for Craft Supplies USA but for many years more widely available.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you, Richard (Appreciated)
Very interesting explanation. Do you use a conventional U shape ou a Deep fluted V or U bar ? I really look forward to experiment grindin an asymmetrical gouge (yet tp buy, I thought of a Hamlet HCT085). Would that be ok ?
I really like the look of this, Richard. Does it hog out material because of a deep flute?
The deep flute just make for a stronger tool when turning well over the rest. It hogs out effeciently when hollowing because of the short right wing. The swept-back left wing enables pull cuts on bowl profiles.
I'm going to give this a go...now I have two bowl gouges...the steep angle "bottom feeder" and a gouge that uses a shallower angle and longer wings. It appears that you have sharpened a steep angle bottom feeder in this manner and not the other grind. Both are sold by most tool makers. Do you use just one gouge or both? Thanks
I developed this grind in 1970 but didn't fully appreciate its advantages over other grinds for over a decade. It's major advantage is that it makes entry cuts easier and can be rolled to maintain bevel contact all the way to centre, although I generally prefer scrapers across the bottom of a bowl for greater control over the shape, It saves having two gouges with different bevels.
Hi Richard what grit is your CBN wheel, and do you use a low grit CBN or something else to reprofile before sharping?
Thanks for all your videos!
I use edges straight off the 80-grit CBN and the 60 grit carborundum that came with the grinder for shaping. 36-grt would be more effecient.
I’ve been grinding my skew free hand and I think the bevel has increased a lot, like too steep. What do you think the angle should be? Thanks so much for doing these videos
The included angle on my skews is about 30°. Have you seen the skew sharpening video? ruclips.net/video/HGhAP9whYIY/видео.html
I think I’ll be practicing with a dowel or something before I risk freehand grinding a tool.
That's a good idea I'd not considered. Freehand sharpening isn't that difficult. It just requires a steady hand and minimal tool pressure against the wheel. Let the wheel come to the tool. Freehand edges tend to be more useful than those achieved using a jig.
Do you put this grind on all your bowl gouges?
Yes, and most shallow/spindle gouges too.
Richard, could you describe the position of the gouge angle, tool handle down, level, on/off centre height etc. not easy to see in 3D. It looks very much like you incline the cutting edge to give a slicing action which is less traumatic- somewhat the principle of a guillotine. I have. Seen so many incorrect tool applications on other presentations-I am sure many do not appreciate the physics of cutting the workpiece. Greetings from Tasmania Australia. 👍😁🇦🇺🦘
The precise presentation depends on several variables including the bevel angle, the rest height, your height in relation to centre, and the size of the gouge. I start a cut with the bevel heel contacting the wood, then raise the handle to pivot the edge into the cut using the bevel heel as a fulcrum. At this stage the blade is typically tilted slightly up when taking a heavy shaving. As I roll the tool to bring the flute facing up for the back-cut (with the vertical side rubbing the wood), I tend to bring the blade to horizontal as it's easier to steer around a curve. When horizontal, the tool is slicing at center height.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Many thanks for your detailed reply-it is now a matter of practice on my part. Your demonstrations are absolutely top quality-and the best I have seen in close-up clarity. I also watch two others in the 4-way team demonstrations, one fellow I had not found, Mike & Angelo are regular’s, I will track down the fourth member. Great idea, I am looking forward to their contributions. If you have any comments to make on the best final finish to used on Huon Pine, bowls I am power carving end grain blanks, rock hard and far too big and heavy for my mini lathe. Ranges about 10” in max diameter and various thicknesses from 1.5 “. I acquired 40 odd blanks at a price too good to pass. Huon Pine is very popular down here and up in Queensland. Kind regards-Greetings from Tasmania 42 South.
Can they be purchased or was this a Labor of love?
So, do I ake o e or purchase one?
@@roberthortin5357 I didn't understand your question original question. If you have a gouge all you have to do is reshape it. However for many years Henry Taylor have made asymmetric gouges as one of the collection of Raffan Signature tools. I don't sell tools but Henry Taylor will tell you where your nearest dealer is.
What do you do with all the shavings from your turning?
They go on the garden as mulch.
Richard, when you refer to the gouges as a 1/2 or 3/8 here, do you mean the flute width, ot the bar stock size?
I'm not an American, so it flute width. Hopefully manufactureres will eventually come to some universal agreement on terminology using metric.
Thank you