Hi Richard, I have just bought myself a Sabre 350 bandsaw. This was very useful and will help me “find” bowls in the various pieces of wood I have acquired over the years.
Very interesting video, and the bowl at the end is breathtaking! I was using RUclips's one-frame-at-a-time thing to get a better look at it. Wonderful!
I was worried you were going to cut yourself on the bandsaw blade when you were brushing off the wood. I've started cutting off small wafers to check for cracks. It works great, thank you for that. I always enjoy watching you cut your blanks. That was an unusual shape you started with.
I recently had a similar situation but with very dry, hard wood. Scared me a bit when Richard got the blade stuck because that was that situation was the precursor of 7 stitches in my finger! But, he's a pro and I'm still clearly learning....
Very informative. I appreciate that you share how you go about preparing blanks with what you see and how you envision the different blanks. The picture of the finished large bowl is outstanding! Have you made a video of turning that large bowl?
Needed for what? I doubt I could have got a larger defect-free blank then got a number of smaller blanks as well as offcuts that went to some pen-turners. I prefer my bowls without splits. Spits never look decorative.
I understand that sealing end grain helps wood dry evenly which helps avoid cracks. If you process green wood and seal it entirely (exposed end grain and side grain) in wax or paint or whatever, will this cause cracks to form due to uneven drying? Or will the wood just dry more slowly?
@@matthewjohnston1400 I don't seal roughed bowls. I keep a close eye on them for a few days and if there is any splitting the bowl goes straight back on the lathe to be finished green. Thinner bowls usually then warp but don't split. When I want distortion in my wavy bowls I look for woods like casuarinas or banksias known to warp and split and turn them before they have a chance to split. Otherwise I'm looking for stable timbers like ash.
I understand that sealing end grain helps wood dry evenly which helps avoid cracks. If you process green wood and seal it entirely (exposed end grain and side grain) in wax or paint or whatever, will this cause cracks to form due to uneven drying? Or will the wood just dry more slowly?
Yes, you are "on that time scale." I guess with your current high humidity you do not get any additional splitting on the small blanks before you get to turning them? How quickly do you get to them to turn?
The big blank was checking by the time it was on the lathe. I was unable to turn the small ones within a few days, so they went into a plastic bag and were handed on so they got immediate attention.
Mr Raffan how are you not catching the blade and spoiling your saw with the wood not fully fla? Are you using a blade with more than 6 teeth per inch? I have ruined 4 blades all 3tpi using same saw.
At 12:00 you said "somebody will make pen blanks out of that; not me". Do you sell or give wood away? Beautiful piece of juniper; Ive never seen such a big piece!
This is the kind of topic that RUclips was made for. It would be much more difficult to cover this in a book. Thank you, Richard.
Happy to see I am not the only person who abuses his bandsaw and does sketchy stuff in the name of woodturning. 😂
thank you Richard. It's fascinating watching you get so much useable stock from these pieces.🙂🙂
This is such a great lesson into how to select and properly cut into a large piece and get usable pieces. Thank you very much.
Hi Richard, I have just bought myself a Sabre 350 bandsaw. This was very useful and will help me “find” bowls in the various pieces of wood I have acquired over the years.
Interesting as always, Richard. Thank you for taking the time to share 🌞
I have learned so much from your bandsaw videos. They really are excellent and I've put them to use many times now. Thanks
really enjoy watching you process a piece of wood, so much to learn. thanks for your time
Thanks Richard. Always like seeing how you pare away the garbage. I really need to learn how to do that better. And I like that bowl.
Thanks for the tutorial Richard.
Very interesting video, and the bowl at the end is breathtaking! I was using RUclips's one-frame-at-a-time thing to get a better look at it. Wonderful!
I was worried you were going to cut yourself on the bandsaw blade when you were brushing off the wood.
I've started cutting off small wafers to check for cracks. It works great, thank you for that.
I always enjoy watching you cut your blanks. That was an unusual shape you started with.
It's a misleading camera angle. The guides were low over the log and the saw is off during brushing.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning I suspected it might be something like that. On the other hand it's good to have people concerned about you.
@@kenvasko2285 It is, and I thank you for that concern.
Bonjour Richard. Merci pour cette vidéo instructive,l es détails sont bien utile pour nous ,apprentis tourneur.👍
It always amazes me how you autopsy then dissect a log to get the most usable blanks from it as well as how much you discard to burn.
stunning bowl at the end, hope you have a video of turning that.
It's the next video to be posted in a couple of days.
I recently had a similar situation but with very dry, hard wood. Scared me a bit when Richard got the blade stuck because that was that situation was the precursor of 7 stitches in my finger! But, he's a pro and I'm still clearly learning....
I bear scars from 50 years ago when I was lucky not to lose then ends of two fingers.
It's always instructive to see how you work through processing a piece of wood into blanks. The figure on the resulting bowl is quite nice.
Very informative. I appreciate that you share how you go about preparing blanks with what you see and how you envision the different blanks. The picture of the finished large bowl is outstanding! Have you made a video of turning that large bowl?
It's the next video to be posted in a couple of days.
I hope you shot a video of the Large bowl. I would enjoy seeing that one take shape.
It's the next in line. Goes up in two days.
This wood looks exactly like the Eastern Red Cedar so common here in Georgia USA
Ones fortitude with the bandsaw commands respect, in pink shorts to boot ha.
Nice work dude 😍😍
he is cutting away far more than is needed. I've worked with worse pieces that came out really nice.
Needed for what? I doubt I could have got a larger defect-free blank then got a number of smaller blanks as well as offcuts that went to some pen-turners. I prefer my bowls without splits. Spits never look decorative.
When putting cut blanks away for a while, does coating the cut ends with latex paint help slow the development of cracks
rounding over any sharp corners does help too
Sealing the endgrain does help limit splitting, but with bowl blanks rough turning is a better way to go so the wood can move.
I understand that sealing end grain helps wood dry evenly which helps avoid cracks. If you process green wood and seal it entirely (exposed end grain and side grain) in wax or paint or whatever, will this cause cracks to form due to uneven drying? Or will the wood just dry more slowly?
@@RichardRaffanwoodturningwould you treat a rough bowl blank or can it dry naturally?
@@matthewjohnston1400 I don't seal roughed bowls. I keep a close eye on them for a few days and if there is any splitting the bowl goes straight back on the lathe to be finished green. Thinner bowls usually then warp but don't split. When I want distortion in my wavy bowls I look for woods like casuarinas or banksias known to warp and split and turn them before they have a chance to split. Otherwise I'm looking for stable timbers like ash.
I'm a bit over a year behind you. Time scale indeed.
I understand that sealing end grain helps wood dry evenly which helps avoid cracks. If you process green wood and seal it entirely (exposed end grain and side grain) in wax or paint or whatever, will this cause cracks to form due to uneven drying? Or will the wood just dry more slowly?
Yes, you are "on that time scale." I guess with your current high humidity you do not get any additional splitting on the small blanks before you get to turning them? How quickly do you get to them to turn?
The big blank was checking by the time it was on the lathe. I was unable to turn the small ones within a few days, so they went into a plastic bag and were handed on so they got immediate attention.
I thought I was the only fighting my bandsaw !
Are you going to turn these green? Seal the ends and put them away? Or just put them away without sealing
They're all turned. The big bowl is the next video I publish.
Thanks Richard
.. Beautiful.
you need to make you a slide while you still have both thumbs or do you just hate them not like giving thumbs up or something ?
Mr Raffan how are you not catching the blade and spoiling your saw with the wood not fully fla? Are you using a blade with more than 6 teeth per inch? I have ruined 4 blades all 3tpi using same saw.
This is a recently resharpened ½" 3 tpi blade.
Do you have to cut the pith out crotch pieces? I’ve got two pecan crotch pieces I’m about to tackle after they spalt
At 12:00 you said "somebody will make pen blanks out of that; not me". Do you sell or give wood away? Beautiful piece of juniper; Ive never seen such a big piece!
I occasionally have a clearance sale of blanks and roughed bowls, and give away some of the small stuff.
Thanks a lot
20:45 I'm about your age, so that rang my chime.
Yeah, me too.
Could it be Yew?
Definitely not yew. I turned tonnes of that in the 1970s
If it’s juniper and you look at it it will crack. At least mine do.
Richard, I was cringing as you were using the brush with your knuckles so close to the blade teeth. Please be careful!
It's a misleading camera angle. The guides were low over the log and the saw is off during brushing.