Great video and like you Jeff I don't wait for the router to power down, I make adjustments on the router table (small picture frames) with my small parts holder. Far quicker and I'm not spending time waiting for the router to spin down and when I'm making 10 small frames (40 pieces) time is important.
I missed seeing these deep dive videos - thanks for the demo. I'll probably add one to my shop because it sure beats my current process of using tiny squeeze clamps to hold small parts (and praying the jaw doesn't give out on me!).
Nice video! I am surprised that you didn’t wear hearing protection as the router whine is the most dangerous noise to safe hearing. Also, I installed a STOP paddle at thigh height so I can turn off the router safely by touching it with my thigh without having to take one of my hands off the wood to turn off the router, especially in an emergency. It also allows me to keep my eyes on the project at all times too.
I would leave the router motor running to but move away to change the side to be cut. I understand some peoples trepidation's and my opinion is that too many have what I call the "sawstop" mentality in that they let the machine do the safety thinking. I've done so much electronics and aircraft maintenance and now woodworking that SAFETY is always #1 and has been ingrained in my brain; technology is great but is raising too many non-thinkers out there.
I had made one of these before it ever showed up in my in box. 3 pieces of scrap cherry, a 3/8" rod from Lowes, a piece of all thread, a knob, a threaded insert and some 1 1/4 dowel for handles and about 90 minutes.
Same thing with 4 inch grinders, who has the time to let them stop before you set it down, grinding to a stop is no fun either. The new grinders have a quick stop and wish they made our tools with that also.
I am currently on the second copy and still having the same issue. As soon as you try to tighten the knob, the button on the movable jaw depresses by itself and the thread starts skipping. I think there is a flaw in design and the spring under the button is too weak. I’m going to be returning mine. Hopefully they can fix this problem soon.
Please contact Customer Service. We've recently become aware of this issue and have instituted new assembly procedures. We'll make sure your next one works. Sorry for the problem.
Great explanation of the safer way to use the IronGrip and then you put the stock in the back of the device several times and held the side away from the handles. I was sitting there yelling at my monitor "WHAT ARE YOU DOING? USE THE SAFETY HANDLES! THAT IS WHAT THEY ARE THERE FOR."
Ding, ding, ding...you're the first to catch that I used it backwards...but it wasn't several times, just once. Holding by the side had nothing to do with that, I just personally feel more comfortable holding the sides instead of the handles, but that's just me. Either way, you're removed from the bit.
Will iron grip work for coping cuts (rail and stile door matched bit stuff)? Most coping sleds raise the cut piece since the piece rides on the sled base. It is more difficult to switch between rail and style cuts since rails are on the router table and stiles ride on the sled base. If seems the iron grip might make a more consistent setup when switching rail and stile bits ...
Hi Jeff, I have an issue when tightening the Iron Grip. The button that let's you quicklyl move the arm most of the time doesn't lock. So when I try to get a firm grip on the piece it slips. Sometimes if I pull up on the button I can get it to lock, other times it just keeps slipping. Do you have any suggestions on how to fix that? Thanks, Tim
@@WoodpeckersLLCthanks I called customer service and the told me a spring probably failed or got twisted. Take it apart and see it you can fix the spring.
Have not found that to be necessary in any cuts I've made with it. The Acme screw vise is sufficient with its sideways pressure. If you have experienced lift with other similar looking small parts holder, I can tell you the clamping hold of those jigs is the reason we decided to proceed with development of the Iron-Grip.
I have a Festool CMS GE router table (this table has been discontinued) the surface area of this router table is smaller than the traditional router tables. Could you provide are the overall dimension of the Iron Grip Parts Holder to see if it would work on this table? Or, do you know if the Iron Grip would work on the Festool router table?
It holds up to 10 & 1/2 inch stock, so, at the red feet, which appear to be between 3/4 & 1 inch thick, probably 1 inch judging by his index fingertip (all adult index finger tops are exactly 1 inch since Imperial is based on the golden ratio & rules of thirds, but it is still hard to get a good frame paused to compare), I would guess it is probably about 12 to 12 & 1/2 inches total at the feet - 10 & 1/2 + either 1 & 1/2 to 2 inches for the feet.
It's 13" wide and 5" deep. Though, it really doesn't matter. The left end and the vise jaw are the only parts that have to be on the table. The right end plate could overhang without affecting operation.
Love this tool, but I’m not waiting to turn off my router when I’m two feet away from the blade, if you’re so afraid of woodworking, maybe you should consider macrame, let me know, I need a good scarf for the winter.
Isn't there an electrical or mechanical way to rapidly slow down a spinning motor? Didn't some of the old delta radial arm saws have some sort of "resistor" wired in to slow the motor....?.....and some had the little lever on the end of the motor to act as a mechanical brake. probably would be a big seller. The first router company who incorporates that into their router will do well. Seems like it should have been done years ago. thank you for the vid. lots of folks have lost weight doing the "carnivore diet".
He's looking to speed up the spin-down, not vary the operating speed. Several of the new brushless cordless routers have instant brakes, but I'm guessing it will be a while before we see it in anything you would want in a router table.
Forgive this ignorant question, what would you be making such small parts for, could you give some examples. I eat what ever I please and avoid fad diets.
Jewelry boxes come to mind immediately. But, "small" is in reference to any dimension of the piece. Tenon cuts are short across, but the part could be several feet long.
Great video and like you Jeff I don't wait for the router to power down, I make adjustments on the router table (small picture frames) with my small parts holder. Far quicker and I'm not spending time waiting for the router to spin down and when I'm making 10 small frames (40 pieces) time is important.
Incredible, no one has whined that there isn't a metric version. 🙂
Wow. Excellent information and the product is terrific!
I missed seeing these deep dive videos - thanks for the demo. I'll probably add one to my shop because it sure beats my current process of using tiny squeeze clamps to hold small parts (and praying the jaw doesn't give out on me!).
Nice video! I am surprised that you didn’t wear hearing protection as the router whine is the most dangerous noise to safe hearing. Also, I installed a STOP paddle at thigh height so I can turn off the router safely by touching it with my thigh without having to take one of my hands off the wood to turn off the router, especially in an emergency. It also allows me to keep my eyes on the project at all times too.
I would leave the router motor running to but move away to change the side to be cut. I understand some peoples trepidation's and my opinion is that too many have what I call the "sawstop" mentality in that they let the machine do the safety thinking. I've done so much electronics and aircraft maintenance and now woodworking that SAFETY is always #1 and has been ingrained in my brain; technology is great but is raising too many non-thinkers out there.
I had made one of these before it ever showed up in my in box. 3 pieces of scrap cherry, a 3/8" rod from Lowes, a piece of all thread, a knob, a threaded insert and some 1 1/4 dowel for handles and about 90 minutes.
Other than having the work piece flat on the router table, is there anything the Iron Grip can do that the Woodpeckers coping sled can't do?
The width capacity is greater and the Coping Sled has no capacity to clamp extremely small stock. It will clamp narrow, but not short.
Same thing with 4 inch grinders, who has the time to let them stop before you set it down, grinding to a stop is no fun either. The new grinders have a quick stop and wish they made our tools with that also.
I am currently on the second copy and still having the same issue. As soon as you try to tighten the knob, the button on the movable jaw depresses by itself and the thread starts skipping. I think there is a flaw in design and the spring under the button is too weak. I’m going to be returning mine. Hopefully they can fix this problem soon.
Please contact Customer Service. We've recently become aware of this issue and have instituted new assembly procedures. We'll make sure your next one works. Sorry for the problem.
Great explanation of the safer way to use the IronGrip and then you put the stock in the back of the device several times and held the side away from the handles. I was sitting there yelling at my monitor "WHAT ARE YOU DOING? USE THE SAFETY HANDLES! THAT IS WHAT THEY ARE THERE FOR."
Ding, ding, ding...you're the first to catch that I used it backwards...but it wasn't several times, just once. Holding by the side had nothing to do with that, I just personally feel more comfortable holding the sides instead of the handles, but that's just me. Either way, you're removed from the bit.
Will iron grip work for coping cuts (rail and stile door matched bit stuff)? Most coping sleds raise the cut piece since the piece rides on the sled base. It is more difficult to switch between rail and style cuts since rails are on the router table and stiles ride on the sled base. If seems the iron grip might make a more consistent setup when switching rail and stile bits ...
Should work perfectly.
Hi Jeff, I have an issue when tightening the Iron Grip. The button that let's you quicklyl move the arm most of the time doesn't lock. So when I try to get a firm grip on the piece it slips. Sometimes if I pull up on the button I can get it to lock, other times it just keeps slipping. Do you have any suggestions on how to fix that?
Thanks, Tim
The half-nut may be faulty. Call Customer Service.
@@WoodpeckersLLCthanks I called customer service and the told me a spring probably failed or got twisted. Take it apart and see it you can fix the spring.
If the spring is deformed in any way, call back and say you want it replaced.
Is it possible to have a hold-down to prevent bit push-up.
Have not found that to be necessary in any cuts I've made with it. The Acme screw vise is sufficient with its sideways pressure. If you have experienced lift with other similar looking small parts holder, I can tell you the clamping hold of those jigs is the reason we decided to proceed with development of the Iron-Grip.
I have a Festool CMS GE router table (this table has been discontinued) the surface area of this router table is smaller than the traditional router tables. Could you provide are the overall dimension of the Iron Grip Parts Holder to see if it would work on this table? Or, do you know if the Iron Grip would work on the Festool router table?
It holds up to 10 & 1/2 inch stock, so, at the red feet, which appear to be between 3/4 & 1 inch thick, probably 1 inch judging by his index fingertip (all adult index finger tops are exactly 1 inch since Imperial is based on the golden ratio & rules of thirds, but it is still hard to get a good frame paused to compare), I would guess it is probably about 12 to 12 & 1/2 inches total at the feet - 10 & 1/2 + either 1 & 1/2 to 2 inches for the feet.
@@bestyoutubernonegraternumber1 thank you.
It's 13" wide and 5" deep. Though, it really doesn't matter. The left end and the vise jaw are the only parts that have to be on the table. The right end plate could overhang without affecting operation.
@@sflynn585 @WoodpeckersLLC is right - I accounted for the 10 & 1/2 inches capacity, but did not account for the center vice.
Love this tool, but I’m not waiting to turn off my router when I’m two feet away from the blade, if you’re so afraid of woodworking, maybe you should consider macrame, let me know, I need a good scarf for the winter.
Guess I don't need this device since I don't have a SawStop machine
Isn't there an electrical or mechanical way to rapidly slow down a spinning motor? Didn't some of the old delta radial arm saws have some sort of "resistor" wired in to slow the motor....?.....and some had the little lever on the end of the motor to act as a mechanical brake. probably would be a big seller. The first router company who incorporates that into their router will do well. Seems like it should have been done years ago. thank you for the vid. lots of folks have lost weight doing the "carnivore diet".
He's looking to speed up the spin-down, not vary the operating speed. Several of the new brushless cordless routers have instant brakes, but I'm guessing it will be a while before we see it in anything you would want in a router table.
My cordless Dewalt brakes within a second or so.
Lawyers.
Router motor should have an automatic brake.
Keyboard warriors always whining about something.
People seriously complained about you touching the table? Unbelievable. There are some truly pathetic people out there.
Forgive this ignorant question, what would you be making such small parts for, could you give some examples. I eat what ever I please and avoid fad diets.
Jewelry boxes come to mind immediately. But, "small" is in reference to any dimension of the piece. Tenon cuts are short across, but the part could be several feet long.
I have made replacement totes for hand planes putting a radius on the long edges and a small parts holder definitely made the job safer.
Omg! That sounds great, I restore stanley baily planes. Thank you for the idea.