I did my maiden ride on my T7 with the tubes because I just wanted to get out and ride it. But I ripped those tubes out after that ride. I was pleasantly surprised that the tubeless setup was literally just as easy as you showed in this video. Took about 15 minutes to do both wheels (with a standard floor pump no less) and they haven't had an issue since. I struggled to get my old bike to stay tubeless but that's mostly because I bought rims that weren't tubeless ready and I tried to get by with gorilla tape. Long story short, I gave up and went back to tubes. But the T7 is holding strong and it's going to stay that way.
@@TypicalGuy84 yeah, it feels a bit more supple. But the reason I do it is to avoid flats. I've only had one flat since I made the switch. A rock slashed my sidewall. I threw a tire patch on the inside and haven't had an issue since. I ride 28 psi front and 30 rear. I can go lower but when I jump with lower pressure I get danger close to pinch flats upon landing. I weigh 230 pounds so that might have something to do with it.
Thanks! This is a very helpful step-by-step with techniques for the challenging parts -- that is, not spilling sealant and final "arm roll" to get tire over rim sans tool.
I went tubeless on my T8 over a year ago and never looked back! :) I used a healthy amount of Orange Seal at the time, and I've never even added any extra. Stuff is legit. And I'm pretty sure I got the same valves as you! That silver box looks familiar. :D
Just found this channel and following, great format and explications on all videos, looking forward for more T7 videos for the next upgrades / tutorials !
@@TheBikeSauce good call. I'm not even sure if the rims on my current 90s mtb (which I want to turn into a touring rig) are good for tubeless. The rims are hooked, I guess I just have to get a good amount of tape on there to seal off the spoke holes?
Lots of tubeless ready rooms are still hooked. You’d probably be fine converting to tubeless, but it’s another variable on older rims. Worst case scenario, it’s a bit messy and you throw a tube back in
Converting my T7 to tubeless cut its weight by approximately 3 pounds. The job was easy and I was even able to seat the tires with an ordinary floorpump.
I've got a tire inflation hack on my channel. You don't need a high pressure pump... 👍 I have found that filling the sealant through the valve core after the bead pops is easier and doesn't cause a mess for noobs
Oh very cool Ill remember that. Im waiting for my 2024 Polygon T8 to be delivered, first bike Ive ever owned :) so excited. For tubeless valves is there any significant difference between 44mm and 60mm? I ordered 2 pairs of Muc-Off tubeless valves: a 44mm and 60mm because Idk which size is better.
Besides going tubeless, the first thing I did when I first got my T7 was I swapped the tires out completely. The Hans Dampfs were terrible traction for my local terrain, plus I don't like riding a 2.5 on the back wheel anyway.
Great tutorial that can apply to many other bikes! I'm in the market for a floor pump with booster. U happy with that Topeak? Would you recommend any others?
Thx. Check out my review on the topeak for all my thoughts, but in short, it’s good. Premium price tag, but a long term investment the way I see it. I only have a standard compressor against which to compare. Both do a fine job
Hey guys I just got a D7 - can I do the same thing with that bike. Nobby Nics are the tyres not sure about rims - yes I am new to this. Appreciate any help.
Thanks i like vid.. but.. why not just put slim in tube. or in my other bike i have the foam tire liner then go with a smaller tube, looks like a floaty noodle. No flats yet.. whats advantage of tubeless, can someone explain..other then your saving wieght for sure yep..
Hi, I own a t7 it been a fantastic bike but unfortunately looks like I blew my right side fork seal. Do you know what size mm fork seals I need? I've actually never had a flat on my t7 and i send it on 10/12 foot jumps every single ride.. only issue I have broken the nipples right out from the rim cause there super cheaply made, so I replaced the nipples with bmx nipples that are like x3 stronger.
@@TheBikeSauce100% no pliars. All you need to do is push on the valve with your thumb and tighten with your other hand. It doesn't need to be any tighter than this. If it leaks from your valve with this level of torque then your have an issue with your tape, not the valve. That way if you slash a sidewall/a hole too big for your sealant in the field, you can remove the valve by hand to install a tube.
@@TheBikeSauce was just responding to your "I think that's the point response" to andre which implies that the point of using pliers was so that they can't be undone witnout pliers. There's just no need for pliers (as there is a risk of overtightening, how are you supposed to gauge how tight something is with pliers vs. Fingers? Makes more sense to just use your fingers using the technique I mentioned above).
Sure, whatever works. I’ve seen more tubeless valves come loose and leak than I’ve seen overtightened valves, so it’s just a recommended precaution from my own experiences.
I did my maiden ride on my T7 with the tubes because I just wanted to get out and ride it. But I ripped those tubes out after that ride. I was pleasantly surprised that the tubeless setup was literally just as easy as you showed in this video. Took about 15 minutes to do both wheels (with a standard floor pump no less) and they haven't had an issue since. I struggled to get my old bike to stay tubeless but that's mostly because I bought rims that weren't tubeless ready and I tried to get by with gorilla tape. Long story short, I gave up and went back to tubes. But the T7 is holding strong and it's going to stay that way.
Did you notice a difference after going tubeless ?
@@TypicalGuy84 yeah, it feels a bit more supple. But the reason I do it is to avoid flats. I've only had one flat since I made the switch. A rock slashed my sidewall. I threw a tire patch on the inside and haven't had an issue since. I ride 28 psi front and 30 rear. I can go lower but when I jump with lower pressure I get danger close to pinch flats upon landing. I weigh 230 pounds so that might have something to do with it.
Another great vid! Super helpful for all the Siskiu T owners out there and to anyone wanting to go tubeless :)
Just got my T7 and am loving it!
Nice! Happy NBD
how long did it took for delivery ?
@@luispadilla1675 it was in stock when I ordered it, and it was about 1 1/2 weeks before it was delivered.
Thanks! This is a very helpful step-by-step with techniques for the challenging parts -- that is, not spilling sealant and final "arm roll" to get tire over rim sans tool.
Just converted mine then. Good tips vid mate 👍🏼 made life easy. Was done in 15mins
I went tubeless on my T8 over a year ago and never looked back! :) I used a healthy amount of Orange Seal at the time, and I've never even added any extra. Stuff is legit.
And I'm pretty sure I got the same valves as you! That silver box looks familiar. :D
I just did my t6 with a regular air pump and it worked,had the compressor ready just in case but i didn’t need it.
Great video. Thank u and now i will do this to my t8 😅
Good video. Going to do my d7 right now. Wish me luck 😂
Simply fantastic you’ve done it so well
Excellent video!!! Thanks for posting!!!
Just found this channel and following, great format and explications on all videos, looking forward for more T7 videos for the next upgrades / tutorials !
Thanks!!
I'm on the fence about tubeless for an upcoming tour, I've never set up tubeless before. Yours is the most thorough tutorial I've seen though
That’s high praise. Thanks! Maybe hold off until after your tour to experiment, just for peace of mind
@@TheBikeSauce good call. I'm not even sure if the rims on my current 90s mtb (which I want to turn into a touring rig) are good for tubeless. The rims are hooked, I guess I just have to get a good amount of tape on there to seal off the spoke holes?
Lots of tubeless ready rooms are still hooked. You’d probably be fine converting to tubeless, but it’s another variable on older rims. Worst case scenario, it’s a bit messy and you throw a tube back in
@@TheBikeSauce Thanks for the feedback!! Keep up the good work with your channel.
I loved this video!! I don't have a mountain bike but it was a really good tutorial on how to do a tubeless conversion. 👏
The best kind of comment! Thanks for watching
Converting my T7 to tubeless cut its weight by approximately 3 pounds. The job was easy and I was even able to seat the tires with an ordinary floorpump.
3 pounds is huge! Nice
How did it cut 3 lb?
@@injest1017, each innertube weighs almost 1.5 pounds
@@LarryHopperYou can be cutting 3lbs if you remove 3lbs of tubes but then add back the weight of the valves and the sealant.
great video, definitely a worthwhile upgrade
I've got a tire inflation hack on my channel. You don't need a high pressure pump... 👍
I have found that filling the sealant through the valve core after the bead pops is easier and doesn't cause a mess for noobs
Oh very cool Ill remember that. Im waiting for my 2024 Polygon T8 to be delivered, first bike Ive ever owned :) so excited. For tubeless valves is there any significant difference between 44mm and 60mm? I ordered 2 pairs of Muc-Off tubeless valves: a 44mm and 60mm because Idk which size is better.
@@cupofsadge8359 I prefer the shorter stems. More room to maneuver as I use a compressor and a gun to pop the bead now. Cheers
Besides going tubeless, the first thing I did when I first got my T7 was I swapped the tires out completely. The Hans Dampfs were terrible traction for my local terrain, plus I don't like riding a 2.5 on the back wheel anyway.
lol the sealant dance
thanks for the tip
Great tutorial that can apply to many other bikes! I'm in the market for a floor pump with booster. U happy with that Topeak? Would you recommend any others?
Thx. Check out my review on the topeak for all my thoughts, but in short, it’s good. Premium price tag, but a long term investment the way I see it. I only have a standard compressor against which to compare. Both do a fine job
@@TheBikeSauce thanks for the info. I'll check it out!
Gonna do this on my Merida 120. Only thing I need to know next is how to handle flats!
Can this work with a regular pump? Why does it need a blast pump or a compressor? 😮
Can I use 40mm tubless valves instead of 44mm?
Polygon one love
How tall are you and what size did you get?
Hey guys I just got a D7 - can I do the same thing with that bike. Nobby Nics are the tyres not sure about rims - yes I am new to this. Appreciate any help.
You can do the same
I’m glad you asked. I’ve got the d7 and I’m going to go tubeless right now and I wasn’t sure if the d7 was same as the t7.
less formal, less script is always more fun. Beer falling off shelf or stubbing toe.. thats what makes good video... lol BPO
Thanks i like vid.. but.. why not just put slim in tube. or in my other bike i have the foam tire liner then go with a smaller tube, looks like a floaty noodle. No flats yet.. whats advantage of tubeless, can someone explain..other then your saving wieght for sure yep..
Hi, I own a t7 it been a fantastic bike but unfortunately looks like I blew my right side fork seal. Do you know what size mm fork seals I need?
I've actually never had a flat on my t7 and i send it on 10/12 foot jumps every single ride.. only issue I have broken the nipples right out from the rim cause there super cheaply made, so I replaced the nipples with bmx nipples that are like x3 stronger.
Nicely done! Also feel, especially with Al rims, use an insert, such as Rimpact.
Do I need a boost pump or can a regular pump can work?
Often you can get away with a regular pump, but your odds of success are much higher with a booster pump. Better still with a compressor
Well why the hell dont they just forget the tube and sale them as tubless if its this EASY!! lol holy crap, good video but why not they come this way?
5 ounces = 147.8 ml
Don't tigth the nut with the pliers otherwise you won't be able to undo it without the plier.
I think that’s the point
@@TheBikeSauce100% no pliars. All you need to do is push on the valve with your thumb and tighten with your other hand. It doesn't need to be any tighter than this. If it leaks from your valve with this level of torque then your have an issue with your tape, not the valve.
That way if you slash a sidewall/a hole too big for your sealant in the field, you can remove the valve by hand to install a tube.
It’s just snug enough not to come loose. You can still remove the locknut by hand in a pinch.
@@TheBikeSauce was just responding to your "I think that's the point response" to andre which implies that the point of using pliers was so that they can't be undone witnout pliers.
There's just no need for pliers (as there is a risk of overtightening, how are you supposed to gauge how tight something is with pliers vs. Fingers? Makes more sense to just use your fingers using the technique I mentioned above).
Sure, whatever works. I’ve seen more tubeless valves come loose and leak than I’ve seen overtightened valves, so it’s just a recommended precaution from my own experiences.
Hi question, 160psi inflates tire but to what max psi can rim or tire tolerate? Will it go over and damage wheel? Thank you
160psi in the charge canister, the tire will ever only see about 20-30psi once it expands into the tires volume