I found this video this morning just before I went out and bought a Reddy Heater R40 for $20. I got it home and found the ignitor was bad and not working. I ordered one from Amazon and hope to have this running in the next day or 2. Great explaination of how this heater works. The board, photo cell and motor all work. Thank you Thumbs up !
Excellent tutorial. You gave far more information than all the rest put together. You know these circuits completely and pass it all along to us. True professional. Very concise. Rare treat to have found you.
Took about 35 - 45 minutes wasting away flipping through idk maybe 10 or 12 videos before getting lucky and stumbling onto this guy. This is the passing on of information for helping others to learn from at it's best. I'm surprised I didn't have to hit pause to go back for something I missed as it seems he's whizzing right along but no, he simply puts down one fact with reason behind that fact, moves to next fact. Superb. Thank you for sharing sir.
Many thanks ..I was showing a friend the parts that he need to check while i am doing it your comment showed up and put the smile in my face again Many thanks
Thank you so much for taking the time to help others! Fantastic video, this was a mystery machine to me until mine died last week and I tore it apart, decided to search RUclips and there it was! My large 2.7K resistor was open. Thanks again! Back to a warm garage. 👍🏼
Great job on your trouble shooting.i really appreciate your knowledge .i,m a retired Inst tech,your video took me back to the good ole days.thanks for the tips and your video skills.the best to you.
Hey my man thank you for your video I've been trying to get my heater running for the past three months cleaned out the fuel filter air filter bought this hundred dollar it's been running good now thanks to videos like yours thank you very much 🤙🍹bless you man thank you
Thank you for video I was a little worried at first because my circuit board must be a newer version but has all the same part numbers just smaller chips it ended up being a dirty photocell I got it up and running thanks to your help
I'm really glad I finally seen this video I seen this video after watching I don't know 10 or 12 of them but I would really like to see somebody talk about why the AC switch does not illuminate and there's no power to turn anything on so how would you check the AC switch and the control board with no power
A great video - I have exactly the same heater and it had the same problem. Thanks for the fix; but, you mention twice the air pump on the rear creates vacuum. It is actually a compressor and blows air up to the nozzle to induce kerosene up to make a mist to burn. Still a great video - Thanks.
I replaced the ignitor and all is good works ok. I have to figure out how to fine tune it. It was kind of smokey not sure if it was because it's been sitting for forever. Thank you.
Hey Thanks Checked photo and found full of dirt dauber mud. Cleaned and she runs now. The problem with space heater repair is that it is usually cold and you needed the heater to do something else right now.
Hello! I know this video is quite old, but so is my heater😁 I do not have a soldering iron or access to diodes and chips...a new board is $80 do you dignose and repair the boards? My R115 is the same as the video only no on/off toggle, just plug in and it goes. It worked fine last winter, now I plug it in and nothing. Motor runs directly when jumped, as does the ignition, I do not test the photo cell, but the unit does not do anything when plugged in.
Great video Thanks for the info. I think mine is the control board, but I would just like to confirm it. I check the incoming power and that's fine. The fuse is fine. The photocell checks OK. And the ignitor is working. If I hook the fan motor up direct to power (hotwired it with a jumper) the motor runs fine and if I leave the fan going the heater starts up and runs. So is there anything else or do I need to replace the control board because I not sure what to replace on the board. Seems the motor is not getting the signal to turn on
@@welltekdiagnostics6835 So the ignitor comes on but the motor never starts it has power to the fuse and the fuse is good. I hooked the meter to the control board for the motor and it never gets any voltage. I can put a jumper from power to the motor wire and it starts and runs so suspect the control board is bad
I have a 220T that won't start. Ignitor lights up. Tested fan like you said. Plug it in though and it does nothing. The circuit board is clean and all connections look good. Part number 104040U. Any ideas?
How do I do I check the control board when when I plug my Reddy heater professional series 170t multi-fuel the AC switch does not illuminate so would it be the AC switch or is it the control board and how do I check it with no power
ok so I'm only getting 2psi pressure even with the adjustment screw all the way in so i guess I have an air leak, bad vanes in pump or maybe the nozzle is worn causing or cracked plastic filter cover causing a low pressure. anyone have an ideas ? i have to check everything with soapy water. thank you
I was wondering why the diode converting to twelve volts was disconnected...in the end of video there was a diode on the underside. We missed the part where you explained this. Also the pick up tube for the venturi effect on the fuel was not explained. Most novice repair guys have no idea what a zener diode looks like or it's function. It's basically a one way valve for current. ? Many areas where this can be an excellent video as opposed to just average. I loved the video none the less. Please post more. Remember...I'm watchin' you.
THANK YOU THANK YOU!! I know this thread is old but you helped me troubleshoot, as a couple others said plugged in,got igniter,no fan..jumped motor and runs,reconnect and no fan, mind you this heater only used for couple days when new then put away for maybe 20 years, not till you showed lighting a BIC lighter that I tried and bingo! It worked tried couple times then closed it back up and worked! I must have watched 20 utubes, your way of running through testing shows your knowledge and many are great full for that, wishing you the best! THANKS AGAIN- subscribed
My switch does not come on how do I check it and does it need replaced or does it not come on because of the circuit board being bad the fuse is good on the circuit board
I have a kerosene dura heat and it wont ignite I put everything new on it rotor kit and air filters and new hose but it wont ignite. But when I take the lid off it ignite and run for a few seconds what you think ?
On Ebay they sell Circuit board to Ignite Spark plug ,you can add it to your heater and it is safe to use .you need continuous spark that will help ..let me know please .
I have an all pro 100,000 I got new hose and filter ice home thru every thing damn near. It has fuel spark and air. It won't take off. What could be wrong with it.
My ReddyHeater 55,000Btu runs for one to two minutes then blows the 5 or 6amp fuse. The manual specifies a GMA10 fuse, but when installed the igniter disintegrated. The kerosene is new, the air pump, rotor, vanes, nozzle, photocell, air and fuel filters are clean, and the circuit board shows no signs of discoloration. Any ideas that might resolve my problem?
My board shows Part No. 104040Y at the lower left corner, while yours seems to shows 104040X. The boards are fairly similar though, mine showing 2003 presumably a date.
Mike, Inspecting the photograph I sent you yesterday my original circuit board clearly states 6.3A near the fuse holder, even though the ReddyHeater manual specifies a GMA10 fuse. So this explains why the igniter disintegrated when operating with the 10amp fuse. Now the problem is clearer: why does the machine run for a minute or two before blowing the 6amp fuse?
Michael: Since my last correspondence, I purchased a new igniter, which seems to be working fine, except the installation booklet accompanying the igniter states it should not remain on for more than a few seconds after the gas ignites. My voltmeter shows it continues to receive a constant 120 volts long after ignition. I switched the machine off after half a minute of operation. Any further thoughts?
My photo cell doesn’t seem to be happy unless the cover is off. With the cover on it is hard to start and when it does start with the cover on the flame is not as bright yellow it is more blue
Any idea why a 75,000 btu unit works better with the fill cap off then screwed on? Im talking about the fill cap on the "gas" tank. The unit is a Master MH-75T-KFA 75,000 BTU
ddemier ddemier Certainly check fuel pressure first! #1 importance of these heaters. check to see vent on cap isn't plugged. if it is, the fuel won't flow out of the tank it may create a vacuum.
I have two Reddy Heater RM60. Both have ignitors working, air pressure correct(3.4 psi), nozzles spray but flame never ignites. Just confuses me. Thanks.
ignite the flame manually ..see if it stay running if for some reason it stops you have circuit board problem ..you have to send it to electronics tech to do Diagnostics
I have a Redline 100,000 that runs fine but put the cover on and it smokes, It has about 3.4 lbs pressure. Hasn't been started for over 30 years. What do you think?
Great stuff, thanks a lot. I have a fanmaster which wouldn’t fire and stripped an cleaned it but no joy. I undid the plastic screw next to the Pressure adjuster and it was cracked. I replaced it and problems disappeared. Too much air I guess. Worth a check anyway.
Wow. What knowledge. My All-pro 170T circuit board will not work although the fuse is good. I suppose that is it since none of the indicator lights activate. The board is 100.00. Is there a way to replace it with a different cheaper board?
I have a 115,000btu that doesn't have a power switch, it's a 'plug n wait' style. -The kerosene is expired. -all i hear is a 'humm' for a short time. -the fan doesn't engage nor anything else. *I plan to try new kerosene* Any tips otherwise?
check to see if the motor spins, or if it's hard to spin. if it is the try penetrating oil on the motor where the shaft meets the motor, otherwise your air pump on the other end of the motor might be stuck. chances are you need a new motor.
What could be wrong with one of the fan works it sprays diesel and the igniter works mine comes on with everything but won't ignite the diesel sprays and the igniter is red hot but nothing
you may have contamination inside your tank ,take a sample try to ignite it out side and see how fast it burn,also you may have to add some stuff to clean it if that the case . let me know
So tell me again, the first diode is needed to drop line voltage to 60v dc, then the Zener diode regulates it to 12v dc. Now explain how your heater is working....but the diode is NOT soldered to the board!!! So you have no 60v dc nor 12v dc. Which is probably why you failed to detect 12 at the Zener diode output when you tried to demonstrate it to us. Thanks
I thought that same thing till near the end of the video he flips the board over. You can see some lazy ass just soldered a replacement in on the bottom of the board without removing the bad part and mounting the new correctly.
Not sure if you will check this or not, but, what does it mean if I jump the red wire to the black wire (like when you tested just to see if the fan was working) and my heater works fine? Wired correctly, when I plug it in I just get the igniter glow, but no fan, then it shuts down. Jump the red to the black, and everything works fine when plugged in. Thanks for any help.
it is always easy to replace the board .on this video my goal is to help to troubleshoot components and operation of each component .also one of the things I encouraged is to use a spark plug constantly as a replacement for glue plug by using external circuit to control Spark plug.you can find it on Ebay .
Thanks for the quick response! Well I checked the photo cell and was getting a really high reading. Had to set my meter to 2M. It would come down with visible flame though. But, apparently with all the messing with the wires, some issue was cured, because it is operating just fine now. Thanks again for the help.
I found this video this morning just before I went out and bought a Reddy Heater R40 for $20. I got it home and found the ignitor was bad and not working. I ordered one from Amazon and hope to have this running in the next day or 2. Great explaination of how this heater works. The board, photo cell and motor all work. Thank you Thumbs up !
Excellent tutorial. You gave far more information than all the rest put together. You know these circuits completely and pass it all along to us. True professional. Very concise. Rare treat to have found you.
p
Took about 35 - 45 minutes wasting away flipping through idk maybe 10 or 12 videos before getting lucky and stumbling onto this guy. This is the passing on of information for helping others to learn from at it's best. I'm surprised I didn't have to hit pause to go back for something I missed as it seems he's whizzing right along but no, he simply puts down one fact with reason behind that fact, moves to next fact. Superb. Thank you for sharing sir.
Many thanks ..I was showing a friend the parts that he need to check while i am doing it your comment showed up and put the smile in my face again Many thanks
Thank you so much for taking the time to help others! Fantastic video, this was a mystery machine to me until mine died last week and I tore it apart, decided to search RUclips and there it was! My large 2.7K resistor was open. Thanks again! Back to a warm garage. 👍🏼
many thanks..
Great job on your trouble shooting.i really appreciate your knowledge .i,m a retired Inst tech,your video took me back to the good ole days.thanks for the tips and your video skills.the best to you.
Hey my man thank you for your video I've been trying to get my heater running for the past three months cleaned out the fuel filter air filter bought this hundred dollar it's been running good now thanks to videos like yours thank you very much 🤙🍹bless you man thank you
nice to see a professional get to the point. very good video and quite helpful...thankyou
Great video, this helped me to repair my heater that has stood idle in the workshop for years. Thankyou!
Thank you for video I was a little worried at first because my circuit board must be a newer version but has all the same part numbers just smaller chips it ended up being a dirty photocell I got it up and running thanks to your help
It good that you tell people details of the system best video I have seen
I'm really glad I finally seen this video I seen this video after watching I don't know 10 or 12 of them but I would really like to see somebody talk about why the AC switch does not illuminate and there's no power to turn anything on so how would you check the AC switch and the control board with no power
Do you put Teflon tape on air control screws and plug.
My total lack of ability, knowledge and intelligence exposed in the first five minutes. So glad we have fellas like this amongst us.
Awesome video, thank you. On ours was the dial contacts were corroded but your troubleshooting steps led us down the right path! :)
thanks,, it is my pleasure
Very comprehensive explanation on all the important items in this trouble shooting video ! Thank You very much !
thanks
A great video - I have exactly the same heater and it had the same problem. Thanks for the fix; but, you mention twice the air pump on the rear creates vacuum. It is actually a compressor and blows air up to the nozzle to induce kerosene up to make a mist to burn. Still a great video - Thanks.
The vacuum occurs inside the nozzle - venturi that sucks in the fuel.
I replaced the ignitor and all is good works ok. I have to figure out how to fine tune it. It was kind of smokey not sure if it was because it's been sitting for forever. Thank you.
Maybe a silly question but why does the glass fuse not blown after the wiring disconnect?
Hey Thanks Checked photo and found full of dirt dauber mud. Cleaned and she runs now.
The problem with space heater repair is that it is usually cold and you needed the heater to do something else right now.
Many thanks
very informative and deserves more likes
Hello! I know this video is quite old, but so is my heater😁 I do not have a soldering iron or access to diodes and chips...a new board is $80 do you dignose and repair the boards? My R115 is the same as the video only no on/off toggle, just plug in and it goes. It worked fine last winter, now I plug it in and nothing.
Motor runs directly when jumped, as does the ignition, I do not test the photo cell, but the unit does not do anything when plugged in.
Excellent tutorial. Great job! Thank you.
Great video Thanks for the info. I think mine is the control board, but I would just like to confirm it.
I check the incoming power and that's fine. The fuse is fine. The photocell checks OK. And the ignitor is working. If I hook the fan motor up direct to power (hotwired it with a jumper) the motor runs fine and if I leave the fan going the heater starts up and runs. So is there anything else or do I need to replace the control board because I not sure what to replace on the board. Seems the motor is not getting the signal to turn on
If controller don’t see the flame within 2 seconds it will not turn fan .. timing is crucial
@@welltekdiagnostics6835 So the ignitor comes on but the motor never starts it has power to the fuse and the fuse is good. I hooked the meter to the control board for the motor and it never gets any voltage. I can put a jumper from power to the motor wire and it starts and runs so suspect the control board is bad
@@warrencheney4936 if you force motor to run does it stay. Running
@@welltekdiagnostics6835 yes it does and the heater runs fine
I have a 220T that won't start. Ignitor lights up. Tested fan like you said. Plug it in though and it does nothing. The circuit board is clean and all connections look good. Part number 104040U. Any ideas?
You have to bring it to us to be able to find issues
I was able to find a circuit board on an older unit and swapped it out. Seems to have been the fix
Great and useful info. Thank you for posting this for us.
Awesome video! Thanks for posting!!!
How do I do I check the control board when when I plug my Reddy heater professional series 170t multi-fuel the AC switch does not illuminate so would it be the AC switch or is it the control board and how do I check it with no power
Awesome ! Thank you for info! I have same heater going to use this vid for trouble shooting!
ok so I'm only getting 2psi pressure even with the adjustment screw all the way in so i guess I have an air leak, bad vanes in pump or maybe the nozzle is worn causing or cracked plastic filter cover causing a low pressure. anyone have an ideas ? i have to check everything with soapy water. thank you
I was wondering why the diode converting to twelve volts was disconnected...in the end of video there was a diode on the underside. We missed the part where you explained this. Also the pick up tube for the venturi effect on the fuel was not explained.
Most novice repair guys have no idea what a zener diode looks like or it's function. It's basically a one way valve for current. ?
Many areas where this can be an excellent video as opposed to just average. I loved the video none the less. Please post more.
Remember...I'm watchin' you.
diode was bad .just want to show alternative way to replace it from the bottom of the board .
Mine will run for about an hour then shut off...Ideas?
THANK YOU THANK YOU!! I know this thread is old but you helped me troubleshoot, as a couple others said plugged in,got igniter,no fan..jumped motor and runs,reconnect and no fan, mind you this heater only used for couple days when new then put away for maybe 20 years, not till you showed lighting a BIC lighter that I tried and bingo! It worked tried couple times then closed it back up and worked! I must have watched 20 utubes, your way of running through testing shows your knowledge and many are great full for that, wishing you the best! THANKS AGAIN- subscribed
Question for you have already heater 170t wont start while the cover is on but if I pull the cover like you have it it fires up hmmmm
Probably grounded through the cover?
My switch does not come on how do I check it and does it need replaced or does it not come on because of the circuit board being bad the fuse is good on the circuit board
Boss man ..... thank you very much for this
Bravo my man, thank you 😊
When the component control the motor what issues happen when they bad ??? See my motor lock up but I jumped like you do and the motor run find
I noticed the black diode was disconnected...was this for demo purposes?
Great video! Now tell me how that was able to operate at the end with one diode disconnected? [!]
ok its soldered underneath.
Thanks for the video!!!!!
I have a kerosene dura heat and it wont ignite I put everything new on it rotor kit and air filters and new hose but it wont ignite. But when I take the lid off it ignite and run for a few seconds what you think ?
On Ebay they sell Circuit board to Ignite Spark plug ,you can add it to your heater and it is safe to use .you need continuous spark that will help ..let me know please .
Thanks that works.
I have an all pro 100,000 I got new hose and filter ice home thru every thing damn near. It has fuel spark and air. It won't take off. What could be wrong with it.
My ReddyHeater 55,000Btu runs for one to two minutes then blows the 5 or 6amp fuse. The manual specifies a GMA10 fuse, but when installed the igniter disintegrated. The kerosene is new, the air pump, rotor, vanes, nozzle, photocell, air and fuel filters are clean, and the circuit board shows no signs of discoloration. Any ideas that might resolve my problem?
is your circuit board looks like mine ?any part numbers
My board shows Part No. 104040Y at the lower left corner, while yours seems to shows 104040X. The boards are fairly similar though, mine showing 2003 presumably a date.
Mike, Inspecting the photograph I sent you yesterday my original circuit board clearly states 6.3A near the fuse holder, even though the ReddyHeater manual specifies a GMA10 fuse. So this explains why the igniter disintegrated when operating with the 10amp fuse. Now the problem is clearer: why does the machine run for a minute or two before blowing the 6amp fuse?
My last comment was inaccurate: The 10amp fuse disintegrated as well as the igniter
Michael: Since my last correspondence, I purchased a new igniter, which seems to be working fine, except the installation booklet accompanying the igniter states it should not remain on for more than a few seconds after the gas ignites. My voltmeter shows it continues to receive a constant 120 volts long after ignition. I switched the machine off after half a minute of operation. Any further thoughts?
I tested the plug wire with a outlet tester and it's getting just should it just be my plug then because its not firing
Very informative, may not know electronics but at least have ideas on the troubleshooting approach.
My photo cell doesn’t seem to be happy unless the cover is off. With the cover on it is hard to start and when it does start
with the cover on the flame is not as bright yellow it is more blue
Any idea why a 75,000 btu unit works better with the fill cap off then screwed on? Im talking about the fill cap on the "gas" tank.
The unit is a Master MH-75T-KFA 75,000 BTU
ddemier ddemier Certainly check fuel pressure first! #1 importance of these heaters. check to see vent on cap isn't plugged. if it is, the fuel won't flow out of the tank it may create a vacuum.
Do you know if they still make heaters without all of the electronic crap on them?
bighud45 I would doubt it due to liability they went to having safety equipment on these. they shut down if parameters aren't met.
Do you have a part number for those 2 diodes?
Nice job, great presentation, accurate.
I have two Reddy Heater RM60. Both have ignitors working, air pressure correct(3.4 psi), nozzles spray but flame never ignites. Just confuses me. Thanks.
ignite the flame manually ..see if it stay running if for some reason it stops you have circuit board problem ..you have to send it to electronics tech to do Diagnostics
I have a Redline 100,000 that runs fine but put the cover on and it smokes, It has about 3.4 lbs pressure. Hasn't been started for over 30 years. What do you think?
I can help you on the Electronics side only send me the board I.D please or txt it to me since you know my number
30 yrs....sell it as a collectible...lol.
Nice video, I have similar heater won’t ignite, igniter is red but not bright red like yours, it is a new igniter.
Great video👌 can you tell me if the space heater ac switch doesn’t light up(turn on) what can it be??
I have the igniter with the spark plug h ok w can I test it
Can you fix my heater is same yours
Great stuff, thanks a lot. I have a fanmaster which wouldn’t fire and stripped an cleaned it but no joy. I undid the plastic screw next to the Pressure adjuster and it was cracked. I replaced it and problems disappeared. Too much air I guess. Worth a check anyway.
Wow. What knowledge. My All-pro 170T circuit board will not work although the fuse is good. I suppose that is it since none of the indicator lights activate. The board is 100.00. Is there a way to replace it with a different cheaper board?
the cheaper one for some reason they don't last long .on Ebay you can
find it .also you have to modify it to meet the same Amp.that your pump
need .
I have a 115,000btu that doesn't have a power switch, it's a 'plug n wait' style. -The kerosene is expired.
-all i hear is a 'humm' for a short time.
-the fan doesn't engage nor anything else.
*I plan to try new kerosene*
Any tips otherwise?
check to see if the motor spins, or if it's hard to spin. if it is the try penetrating oil on the motor where the shaft meets the motor, otherwise your air pump on the other end of the motor might be stuck. chances are you need a new motor.
My heater will not come on ,I replaced igniter, and circuit board but have nothing, switch lights up, whats my problem??
The flame is more blue and does not stay running
I have changed the ignitor the filter the air filter the photocell the fuse and all it does come on and then shuts off right away
this is not easy to troubleshoot ,check your inputs I wish if you can bring it to our shop I can help you
can you read the voltage ? Hamid Signs
Photo eye, clogged nozzle, not enough air from air pump...in that order.
What could be wrong with one of the fan works it sprays diesel and the igniter works mine comes on with everything but won't ignite the diesel sprays and the igniter is red hot but nothing
you may have contamination inside your tank ,take a sample try to ignite it out side and see how fast it burn,also you may have to add some stuff to clean it if that the case .
let me know
welltek diagnostics its fresh new diesel
AWESOME INSTRUCTION SIR . TY.
nice video I cant stand wearing gloves though I'm old school
But what if the fan doesn't come on BUT the igniter does light for a few seconds. Then what? Nobody can answer that question
So tell me again, the first diode is needed to drop line voltage to 60v dc, then the Zener diode regulates it to 12v dc. Now explain how your heater is working....but the diode is NOT soldered to the board!!! So you have no 60v dc nor 12v dc. Which is probably why you failed to detect 12 at the Zener diode output when you tried to demonstrate it to us. Thanks
I thought that same thing till near the end of the video he flips the board over. You can see some lazy ass just soldered a replacement in on the bottom of the board without removing the bad part and mounting the new correctly.
U not show u put wire on
Can you post a video and show us how to make this thing... QUIET? Noisy lil' buggers.
great video but in trying everything I fried my bourd. yang should of seen it lol it was bright and fast. I'm just gonna by a new logic bourd.
Or you just replace the board
replacing board is the most easy way to do diagnostics ,,is that what you mean
Not sure if you will check this or not, but, what does it mean if I jump the red wire to the black wire (like when you tested just to see if the fan was working) and my heater works fine? Wired correctly, when I plug it in I just get the igniter glow, but no fan, then it shuts down. Jump the red to the black, and everything works fine when plugged in. Thanks for any help.
have you checked photo cell output ...let me know
it is always easy to replace the board .on this video my goal is to help to troubleshoot components and operation of each component .also one of the things I encouraged is to use a spark plug constantly as a replacement for glue plug by using external circuit to control Spark plug.you can find it on Ebay .
Thanks for the quick response! Well I checked the photo cell and was getting a really high reading. Had to set my meter to 2M. It would come down with visible flame though. But, apparently with all the messing with the wires, some issue was cured, because it is operating just fine now. Thanks again for the help.
A