B-Vent Roof Top Pipe Vent Flashing, Steps 1 & 2
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- Опубликовано: 18 авг 2018
- The Water Tight Installation of a Roof B-Vent Flashing and Cap two part Instructional Training Video for the Correct and Water Tight Method of Installing a B-Vent Flashing, Storm Collar & Cap.
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The $6 counter flashing over the storm collar and under the cap is brilliant! I moved my heater and, not being a roofer, I was very nervous about cutting a new hole through my roof. Following this video, I just finished this project and am totally confident it will be water tight. Many, many thanks for sharing this video!!
This is the way to do it right
This is the best video I have seen anywhere, everyone else just does the minimum the code requires which after a few years starts to have leaks. I'll be doing this on my house
Thank you for recording and posting this valuable educational video.
Many thanks for posting this helpful video. I was just looking at some other videos and on those did not have a good feeling about the caulking 'business' that I saw.
Your system is so much better!
this was a great reference thanks my friend
That is really a good way in going far and beyond what is really necessary to keep leaks from occurring, but it is NOT necessary. You don't need a second metal cone flange to slide on the one that sits above the black paper. And you don't need that metal sleeve to slide on top, or that metal tube that slides all over the top pipe either. And you don't even need that special liner that you put on top of the cone metal. You can simply use a piece of GOOD roofing paper for that, or even doubling the paper, if it is thin. All that you recommend is great, but overdoing it! Some good aluminum tape on top of the first metal cone flange (with tape tarred afterwards) will SUFFICE, and keep water from leaking in. Besides, it will be way higher than the water path of the roof! My method requires less work and cost, but will still endure time, and the elements. 😁🕊️
Thanks for watching and thanks for you comment, possibly acceptable for most. But, these leaks are the most common in Texas where the Texas heat, and the gas heat from within bake the tar, or caulk and cause them to leak. Why not, on a home worth $250k - $5M, not do it in a permanent way? My thinking is simply: Why not?
@@Austinroofingcontractors
With the heater exhaust pipe (type B), it won't get hot enough to melt tar. Especially as it cools off coming out of the roof in cold weather, even with the heat of the sun. 🌞😅
Maybe, but the hundreds of photos of roofs I have show cracked caulk and tar. (We call it pookie) Then there are the life lessons of higher standards. Would you use tar to seal something on your nice car? I would encourage you to think towards perfection. We never reach it, but to strive for it brings many wonderful things into our world.
Thanks for watching my videos and thank you for your comment.
May your life be blessed.
Thanks for showing pride in your work. People just want to do the bare minimum and collect their payment as fast as possible and hope that no leaks occur before the warranty runs out because it's not their house.
It cost a few more bucks for the "BEST" install that will last double vs "GOOD".
Hate azzholes like this guy.
Had an azzhole plumber with the same mindset installed M type copper inside the walls and exposed was L type, pretty much all the M type copper has pin hole leaks now.
@@alex46801
It's not "the bare minimum" dumbass! It is trying to help people save time and money in doing it right, without having to do more than is necessary, and still get quality work, that will LAST.
Excellent installation regarding sheet metal type B natural gas vent pipe duct flashing involving shingled roofs.
Thank you.
I've been looking at adding a pellet stove to my house. I really like your step two method. I've seen several videos where guys put a ton of caulking. This is away better system and hardly any more work. I would even argue its less work than adding the caulk. Thank you for the video
Thanks for your comment.
I never thought of that. Will do this on my own place.
Awesome, very simple, thank you
we are getting water in between the 2 pipes, leaking down onto the top of the hot water heater. Went onto the roof but all looks good. Storm collar is down and caulked, etc. It was a hard storm so maybe it was wind-blown rain that got under the cap and traveled down the outside of the inside pipe? Maybe add some sheet metal to keep rain from getting up underneath the cap?
Nice system!
How do you fasten flashing to the pipe? If you fasten little ring to the pipe with metal screws the second pipe will not slide over. So how?
so did I get this right? He put two flashings, one collar and a cap
Would this work with a 6" class A chimney as well?
I love it ~ absolutely water tight for decades using no "pookie." *Two Questions:* Is the cap going to be correct diameter to fit over the double-wall pipe or the extra single-wall pipe you slid over the double-wall pipe? And, therefore, is the single wall pipe cut to be exactly as high as the inner double-wall pipe or slightly a different length?
Good question. The single wall counter-flashing pipe is next size up! Thanks for wtching
@@Austinroofingcontractors that didnt quite answer the question, do you attach the cap to the B vent or the counterflashing?
Thank you for the step by step instruction.
A couple questions:
The shingle system secondary flashing... what holds it in place? You wouldn't nail it, the shingles laying over it wouldn't hold it so I'm a little lost on how that is held in place along with the shingle tongues laying over top of it.(?)
You have a pretty unsightly exposed lower part of the flashing, is there a way to cover that area to blend it in with the shingles?
Lastly, I get that the storm collar and counter flashing as well as the vent cap are riveted together and that all slides over the pipe as one unit. What secures that to the pipe if you're not using caulking?
Good questions and thanks for watching the video. The cap is fastened to the pipe with screws. The step flashing are nailed, just like the shingles are nailed, same nail line. Regarding the exposed parts of flashing, it may seem strange, but as a traditional builder, I like seeing the bottom part of the flashing. Some prefer we paint to match the roof, some want to see the metal, but we don't attempt to cover it. I have seen that but it often traps water, the very thing we are trying to eliminate. There may indeed be a "good" way, but we have not found a need for it on composition shingle roofs. Let me know if you discover a good way! GW
@@Austinroofingcontractors - Thank you for the reply.
We have a new roof going on here in a couple months. The gas water heater vent is leaking through the B vent pipe currently so it's going to have to be redone as we have a new water heater being put in in a few days.
Being in S. Florida and with hurricanes my concern was of the front edge on the flashing (second one) lifting during high winds or the section of shingle laying on top of the shingle line lifting as it's two different materials. I was thinking since my last post that maybe some Bull was put under the shingles that lay on top of the flashing to hold the front edge of the shingles in place.
Other than those concerns, I really like your method. It seems far superior to what we have installed now.
Want to come to south florida and do the install as the new roof gets put on? Your way!
@@YknotLearnall Best of luck on your reroof. GW
I wish you would have fastened it at the end as I'm trying to figure out how you did it. So, the cap is not directly connected to the B-vent but rather screwed to both the single wall pipe and bvent? Also, at the bottom of the single wall where it slides over the storm collar lip, its screwed through both the single wall pipe and b-vent?
I think I got it. So at the top, the cap goes on to the b-vent as normal, and then a single screw through the single wall pipe and b-vent to the cap and then no need for a screw at the bottom where it meets the storm collar?
Typically you use screws specifically for b vent they only go through the outer wall of the pipe leaving the inner wall untouched.
I haven't seen this double base flashing plus storm collar. Seems like an inexpensive insurance policy. No rubber plastic or caulk. I guess where I live is so dry, this isn't considered necessary. Still I'll try to remember this for next time.
the flashing's you use the under lament for pipe alignment, and the shingle under layment flashing,s are those the same size? need your help
Great question, yes, they are the same size and the thickness of the shingles separate them enough to allow them to stack well.
Beautiful. Thank you. Will be watching this channel a lot. The realtor was a real butthead selling my friend this house. The furnace roof vent was just destroyed. And leaked like crazy. We couldn’t even use the furnace. Thank God we live in California. So I jus5 ripped the vent out. What a rusted mess that they just patch over with a lot of FlexSeal Paste. Live on limited income. Must do work myself. Thank you so much. May cost more. But worth it in the long run. Pay me now. Or pay me later.
Hi I am having the same problem. Any suggestions if they never cut a hole? I bought a house and the vent only goes to the attic not outside.
First of. What kind of vent. Air lock. Or air release vent. Or and actual exhaust vent. If it’s air. No big deal in the attic. But any exhaust vent needs to be ventilated to the outside. And not in the home. Attic or not. Trapped gases of any kind is not good.
@@bigsidable it’s an exhaust vent for the gas hot water heater. When I turned the gas on they said they couldn’t turn it on for my hot water heater because fumes would build up in the attic. I have the vent that goes outside on the roof but I don’t want to cut the roof without proper tools or knowledge about how to repair the shingles and such.
@@Harryman2077 Not much choice but the roof. But you can run your dual exhaust out a wall. Or to a attic vent. Which should already have a cut out space. That’s are some possible option. As you can see in his video. The roof requires a lot of proper process. Replacing shingles. Can be done. If done properly.
@@bigsidable ok thanks for the info man. I even wondered if I could find a video connecting the vent to something that already has an exhaust in the roof. I have other appliances in the home run on gas and they vent out properly.
Is it okay to vent a hot water heater straight up or should I include a bend in it?
Why would you want to put a bend? 🤔
What vender can I get all these parts from? Everyone local seems to not install B vent anymore and just keeps directing me to Menards/Home Depot
In the details below this video is a link to the manufacturer, who can point you in the right direction in your area: ruclips.net/video/2XcyOJ0UZKE/видео.html Best of luck, it's worth the effort.
the secondary pipe is that a 5 inch diameter???
for a 3" B-Vent pipe, the outer pipe is 4", for a 4" B-Vent Pipe, it's 5" and so on!
Can I remove the shingles around my flu and repair this?
My leak is dripping right down the chrome flu right on top of the hvac
what is the name of the the company that sells that style of venting i need help thanks
Kevin, the products come from Ecco Manufacturing but you will need to find a supplier, they do not sell direct.
@@Austinroofingcontractors thank you for getting back so soon, and your right about some people on youtube are using enough caulk to cover the earth. thanks again
well there appears to be a location in kent washington 10 miles from me so thanks again
I thought the I&W is supposed to be applied to the wood and not the felt?…
How do you know about pookie?lol
Using 2 pipe roof flashing pieces is ridiculous. I decided on a wood stove after the house was built and shingled. You only need one piece of flashing correctly installed to keep out rain and snow.
Thanks for your input, and Yes, it does seem to be ridiculous - but leaks still occurred. Then I read Henrey Ford's book, "My Life and Work". There was the answer. You see, we were not looking at having this work done on a hundred homes a month by someone who carefully thinks, making sure the hole for the pipe is large enough, making sure the felt is not touching the B-Vent, and so on. We were looking for a fool-proof-way to install B-Vent flashings that NEVER LEAK, with multiple crews, multiple players. You see, once the primary flashing is installed with pipe straight, the second goes on without being able to pock shingles under, without worrying about the pipe being in the center of the hole. It's making it so simple, even the third or fourth-best on the job can do it without error. It has been a success! Even this requires some basic training and coaching to get it done well, time and again. Best of luck with your next 1,000 homes - doing it your way!
@@Austinroofingcontractors People have been doing it "My Way" for many more years than they have been doing your way. That's why "Your Way" is nowhere to be found in any residential code books. Once again you guys that peddle "A better mouse trap" get ruffled when someone challenges you. You missed the point. The only part I like about that system is the flange on the storm collar flashing and how your "Counter Flashing" single wall fits over the flange. I love that. It eliminates caulking, and yes, is a better way than using globs of caulk. BUT..many times a wood or pellet stove is an after-thought and doing it "Your Way" requires ripping the roof shingles down to the bare sheathing. Many folks have gone to steel/tin roofing..Please enlighten me as to how "Your Way" would work in this situation. FYI..I am a Carpenter/Contractor of 40 years and I don't know anyone that uses "Your Way" because "Our Way" works efficiently and has worked efficiently for many many years. Yes..leaks do happen in the weirdest ways and leaks could also happen with "Your Way" $hit happens. Good luck reaching the next 1000 home installation.
Thanks for watching!
Shingles system 🤣🤣🤣🤣
How do you metal fasten or rivet that outside pipe and still be able to slide it down.. what type of faster or pop rivets are you referring too?
This is not correct way to install.
But then, who's to say? Maybe it's a better way!
what would you do differently?
Call it overkill. But it looks to be a double safety precautionary measure to me.